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Varanasi : Advice needed on how best to see the evening Aarti

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With the help of the many trip reports I have read on Fodors our India trip is now all booked, our visas have arrived [hooray] and I am now on to considering some of the finer details.

We are visiting Varanasi and will have two full days there and will be staying away from the ghat area at Nadesar palace hotel. My plan is to book a 3 hour walking tour for the morning of the first day [am thinking of Varanasi walk's 'Northern bazaars and hidden alleys' walk] and then to see the evening Aarti. The following day we will arrange a dawn boat ride and then take a tuk tuk to Sarnath.

My question is whether or not it is best to see the evening Aarti from a boat or from the bank and, if the latter, does one need a guide or can one just arrive and still find a decent vantage point ? Plus I would obviously welcome any suggestions for what else we should cover. Thanks.

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