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Trip report BKK, CM , SP and Krabi- Smeagol

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Trip report BKK, CM , SP and Krabi- Smeagol

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Old Nov 29th, 2005, 07:14 AM
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Trip report BKK, CM , SP and Krabi- Smeagol

Greetings fellow travellers i am back from my wonderfull 2 week trip. A bit bleary eyed as i am still on BKK time.
Ok i am going to just try and put the info i think is of interest and "try" not to bore everyone too much, so will try and keep it short!!!(may do it in sections as i really am very tired and that way you can skip anything you are not interested in)) if there is anything you want me to expand on, please ask and i will be delighted to.

Outline of trip
Flights: Eva Air Premium Laurel LHR - BKK
2 nights Oriental
3 nights Chiang Mai - Bangkok Airlines - Tamarind Village
3 Nights Singapore - Silk Air - Raffles Hotel
5 nights Krabi - Tiger Airways - Rayavadee
1 night Bkk - Thai air - Peninsula

Eva Air was very very good, will definately fly with them again in this class. We got a very good deal but at full price i still think its good value. seats had 61" pitch food was good and service was excellent.

BANGKOK
Ariived at BKK dazed and confused, boy had i forgotten its a big airport, Oriental Car had a bit of trouble getting through the crazy Sunday traffic but no problems, driver very courteous and arrived, cooler and calmer. Whisked to room for in room check in LOVELY room looking onto the river. Nice ammenities (i can smell the lemongrass soap now... ahh lovely) Quick shower, off to watch the sun set at State towers.
Drinks at the Sky bar (first we went to the bar the other side of Scirroco with lovely big sofa type things) I LOVED this bar and the Sky bar, thought the views fab, the sweeping staircase and Dome stunning, price of a champagne cocktail OUTRAGEOUS £17!!!!!!!!! even in London that would be dear, but never mind i am on holiday. Quick sighting of Anton Mossiman in the lift, grab a taxi off to....
FACE restuarant
i am VERY glad i printed off the map from their website, whilst in hindsight its very simple, if the cab driver isnt sure where it is you may drive past it (as we did, their BIG face sign is NOT illuminated) anyway we chose thai and there were probably 4 other couples in there (hadn't pre booked - boy would i have been dead if it was full. took at least 30 mins by cab) anyway this place is STUNNING, GORGEOUS grounds, food delicious. I realise its "expensive" by thai standards but simply worth the cab/ Sky Train ride. The BF loved it and i silently thanked all my fodorite friends who had first brought it to my attention. We had a 2 starters, 2 mains the BF had a pudding , me a liqueur coffee, several G & Ts each came to £39 the lots Talk about VALUE. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Taxi back to the O, off to bed V tired......
Breakfast at the O is lovely but personally i think its overpriced, whilst it is lovely i think its way too dear (IMHO) River taxi to Grand Palace, felt like i was playing pac man avoiding the touts arrived at 9.30 it was HEAVING and HOT... did a whirlwind tour, have been B4 the BF thought it was nice but wasn't really interested in a FULL on tour then over to Wat Pho, quick shufftie at the reclining Buddha and were off to the River city mall (didnt do the massage by this time my feet were very hot and just coulnt bare the thought of it..)
RC Mall lovely nice and quiet but probably too upscale for what we were looking for. Quick pit stop to avoid the THUNDEROUS ran and of to JT's.....Can to MBK then the sky train to Rasi Sayam... BOB i a very sorry to report this was a big disappointment. Your directions (which i had with me) were perfect but the shop wasn't worth the trek. (although we did stop off on theway at Mojo for an ice cold beer which was nice. The shop is quite small, staff lovely but it all felt a bit... well like the stuff i can get back home in an upscale department store... sorry it wasnt for me.... back to the O for dinner at..
SALA RIM NAAM
Bob and Gloria i thought of you both as i sat here. Food was actually very nice (i have the menu at home if any one is interested) but after about 20 mins was a bit bored of all the dancing... service as ever very good, veue lovely and i thought it wasnt too expensive, we had (i think) 6 courses. Glad we did it, been there done that you know the drill.... back to the O rounded off the evening with drinks and Jazz in the Bamboo lounge... The BF and i LOVED it in here. The guest singer was from the US and was fab and really liked the vibe o this bar, can see why Gloria likes it so much... pity we were leaving the next day...

Next instalment CHIANG MAI

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Old Nov 29th, 2005, 07:45 AM
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great report...i have not been to the new rasi sayan....maybe they have changed their products since the change in management last year...
in the past every item there was something you wanted....none of it would have been available in UK or the usa....well most of it not...
did they have the finely woven straw purses with decorations which are quite costly...?? lovely fabric shawls? tons of hand made knick nacks?? beautiful pottery? antique items for decorating the house??
if not then it is completely changed...

hope you are planning on giving us your take on penn vs oriental???

glad you did like face...not sure why they do not make it more apparant?? we had trouble with finding it the first time also...

sky bar is fabulous for a quick drink and look around....the inside bars are very nice if you want a cocktail lounge type atmosphere, but you can have that any place in the world...

anxious to read more...rest up so we get the full boar....
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Old Nov 29th, 2005, 08:56 AM
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Just wanted to add APOLOGIES for the the impending typo's ( actually thought i had edited the above post but maybe you have to preview the edit!!!)

Bob, no lovely purses in the shop, did have some antiques and i did buy a couple of silk type shawls but there wasnt really anything in there that i haven't seen before. Don't get me wrong nice stuff but just didn't grab me... and it was way smaller than i expected, think i was expecting some sort of alladins cave filled with treasures. Unless i was in the area i wouldn't go back.
and YES will defo be giving my two pennies worth on the pen V Oriental debate.
Why is it that the face sign is not illuminated, can't imagine it would be that expensive. Still it was well worth the effort and one of our favorite restuarants (but not THE favorite) that is to come????????

Will type up CM later
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 01:17 AM
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Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai

Oriental limo took us to the airport (I know these are extravagances but we really appreciated their fab service)
Flew Bangkok Air to CM.... I do think their claim to be Bangkok's "boutique airline is not really justified. The service was efficient, took off on time and landed 20 mins early but the planes are REALLY small and legroom is cramped (even for me and I am only 5' 4&quot and in cloudy weather do those little planes feel the bumps! and the planes are a little tired that said I wouldn’t say don't use them, just be mindful if you are a nervous flyer.
Arrived at CNX , no transfers booked BIG MISTAKE... Taxis in CM are like hen's teeth... took forever to get one waiting in the blistering heat, however got one eventually and arrived at the Tamarind Village. On first sight it really is a lovely hotel, great location, very peaceful in the middle of a busy city, lovely decor (very much my type of thing) but the rooms are a little rustic... and the walls are thin, so if you get a honeymoon couple next door sleep with the TV on....
Restaurant was nice and food generally pretty good (if expensive by CM standards) I still think tough that this hotel represents excellent value. I have since found out that the people who own the Rayavadee in Krabi and bought it and are currently embarking on an upgrade program.
First night we went to the area around Thae pae gate and EVERY where people we letting off the Thai Balloons TRULY TRULY magical, the city itself had lanterns everywhere and looked simply fab. I bought a Krathong and let it sail of onto the ping river.
We then went to find the Antique House restuarant. Well what can I say this place is simply fabulous? Lovely seating, nice old building unbelievable food and simply unbelievable prices. We had 3 mains, rice and several beers and the TOTAL was £5.35 (or 375bht) not only is it cheap its simply FANTASTIC food. This is without doubt our favourite restaurant of our trip (in fact we went back the next night, threw caution to the wind and spent 450bht!!!!!) please take the time to find this restaurant in CM it really is lovely.
Ok so I am going to speed things up as I feel like I am rambling.
Next day Chiang Mai cookery school. They picked us up from our hotel and took us to their location just outside the city (Sompons house for those who have seen the Sky programme "The Thai way&quot we did "an introduction to Thai food” simply put it was fantastic, Sompon is very funny, his staff are lovely, the venue is very nice sort of indoor/outdoors so nice and cool. This was one of my favourite things we did. cost 990bht each with transportation, back to the hotel by 4.30 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. More Loy krathong festivities and dinner (again) at the Antique house.
Next day Poon arrived spot on time, she is so lovely, drove us around in an oldish (but perfectly adequate) Mercedes. Went to the Elephant camp first. Think I didn’t make myself clear as we ended up at the one at Mae Sae (totally my fault) so we did that which was good, Elephants seemed ok and not in any distress. Didn't really like the "Elephant Show" but apart from that enjoyed the ride etc. Then onto Mae Sae waterfall ( Poon did tell me after that there is a much better one but its an hours drive from where we were). We then had Poon take us to various shopping places (pretty much where you suggested Gloria - I forget the names)
anyway bought some gorgeous celadon at Baan Celadon and poon has arranged shipping with some wooden carvings we bought. Unfortunately we ran out of time and didn’t make Doi Suthep (was gutted) but hopefully we will do this next time. Poon's cost was 2500bht for 10 hours and I tipped her 500bht (Gloria, was thinking of what you said about 10 - 20% hope I tipped enough) thought Poon was excellent and would definitely use her again. Dinner at the Tamarind as we were so hungry when we got back and then down to the River for yet MORE festivities, also went to the night market.
In summation I really like CM, Antique house was FAB CM cookery school we will defo do again, maybe try Baan Orphan next time and Loy Krathong is a TRULY magical time to visit. Oh and will most certainly book airport transfers....

on to Singapore

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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 01:45 AM
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keep it coming. awesome.
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 02:56 AM
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Hello Jane - glad to hear you had a lovely time and loving your report! How do you think Antique House would be with a toddler?

I like the things in JT but also find that they are similar to things at home - well of course you can buy JT items in London at the restaurants and also the Conran Shop. I think they are v similar to products for sale in the Asia sections of Liberty and Selfridges too. However, I am desperate to go to the outlet store to get some lovely silks for the spare room curtains!
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 03:31 AM
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Hey Bella

I think a toddler would be just fine, you can eat in the garden (which we did on the fisrt night) there is also a guy playing the guitar and singing (not very Thai but still lends itself to the Atmosphere.....)Make sure you eat at Antique house 1 (i think) as there are 2 (you want the one - coming from the night bazaar on the road running paralel to the river with the big old teak house LOVELY (check Nancy C map its in there) Seriously my BF is a big old restaurant snob and he LOVED this place. Its nothing fancy just really great food, in a lovely setting at INCREDIBLE prices
Do you know i didn't know you could buy JT stuff in London??? wow will check it out. Mind you i guess it must be cheaper in Thailand (and its so nice to say "oh that, got it in BK) when do you go?

Jane
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 03:37 AM
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Jane-- love your report and glad you liked Chiang Mai. I just like the vibe of the city and am looking forward to a long stay. I'll be taking the cooking class so glad to hear another good report. Antique House is on top of my list of restaurants.
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 03:41 AM
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Hi Jane

Thanks for the tips on Antique House - it sounds just the thing.

We go next summer on July 21st for 5 weeks - whilst we are there we are getting married on 9 August at Rocky Resort in Samui. We are spending 4 nights at the Marriott in BKK, then to CM and staying 3 nights at Baan Orapin and 3 nights at Yaang Come Village, then back to BKK (more dress fittings...) for 2 nights then down to the islands. Can't wait - love this board, BF is now sick to death of hearing about thailand and the topic is banned until 1 month before we depart . This will be our 7th trip.

There is JT stuff available in the restaurants - as I remember, basically all the decorations are for sale! They also have a few of the product type things for sale too. I have to say, the things to buy are nicer than the food in my experience so not sure big old restaurant snob BF will like it mine didn't...The Conran Shop stock more of the homeware things - including a furniture range - at great expense!! It is cheaper in BKK I think.

Looking forward to hearing about your stay in Singapore and Krabi and then the Peninsula - can't wait to hear your take on the O v P debate and where you ate on your last night

are you at home now recovering from your jetlag? Are you in London or elsewhere in UK?

BBx
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 03:52 AM
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Bella
I live in the Midlands, still struggling to sleep and we go to New York tmwr for christmas shopping (long weekend) so i think i will be on a 12 hour time difference (been as i am still on BKK time!!!) oh well am sure it will be great.
SO some of report i will finish next week.... glad you like it, will try not to ramble too much. I just think about the reports i read before we went and how usefull the details are...

Will write more in a bit

J
X
PS your trip sounds DEVINE......
PPS is Face on your list of places to go?
PPPS my BF said he felt like he had already visited Thailand with the amount of times i talked about it, and of course knows all about Bob et al (including yourself) who have helped me...
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 03:54 AM
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Gloria
CM is lovely we both really liked it and it truly was magical at Loy Krathong, one of the highlights of the trip.We shall return for sure
The cookery school is great, have you requested Sompons house? it really is a great venue for the school. Again another highlight. (in fact i think a lot of the highlights were in CM!!!!)
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 04:00 AM
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Face is down on list of places to go for definite - we are in Bangkok for a total of 9 nights so hope to visit both the Thai and the Indian restaurant during that time - yum, making me so hungry I have to go and eat lunch now!

Have a fab trip to NY - you jetsetter you !
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 05:46 AM
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Jane-- yes I reserved the cooking class in the home. We booked the one that includes the market tour so I'm really looking forward to it.
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 05:50 AM
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Back to back trip not my idea (long Story) but looking forward to it non the less....

Anyway...
Slings and black pepper crab in SINGAPORE

Checked out of the Tamarind which was a right pain, took forever and my car i had booked through them didnt turn up!! At this point i am hyperventilating in the lobby (I HATE being late to airports) anyway a very kind Danish couple lets us grab a ride with them and the day was saved.
Silk Air flight to SP - as per previous experiences they were very very good. HOWEVER my one way flights were so expemsive i cannot bring myself to tell you how much they were but SA were the most convenient flights (Tiger fly to SP in the evening) anyway finally arrived in SP (after circling a few times due to bad weather- great views though) took a cab (ahhh the efficiencies of Changi airport S$15) and headed on to Raffles Hotel...

in the words of Sharon Osbourne "Fabulous Darling". Now this really is something. We had a Palm court room which was ENOURMOUS, fabulously appointed, with a parlour (ooh get us!) dining table, seperate bedroom and very colonial bathroom. I won't go into massive detail but the service really is something else (and yes they really did know our names when we asked an employee a question!!!) There are quite a few areas which are only open to residents (which to be honest is a blessing cause everywhere else is CRAZY with tourists...

Took the BF for a sling at the Long bar S$40!!!!!! cause this was his first visit to SP and then met up with some friends who took us for Black pepper crab at Joo Chiat road. OK this place doesnt look much but the crab is yummmie (ask any Singaporean its a very famous place) i don't know how much it costs because my friends picked up the tab but i dont think it was too dear. We then went to the bar at the top of the Hyatt to see the great views (although the bar at the top of Swissotel Stamfords views are slimply AMAZING) on our way to the Hyatt we went down Orchard road and all i can say is i am so glad i am not paying that electric bill.... the lights make Vegas look tame its unbelievable..... time for drinks in the courtyard bar and off to bed.
Today we had a lie in (Ah the luxury) i then took the BF on a whislte stop tour of SP
Orchard, China town (some nice bars in club street), Boat quay (Tacky) Clark Quay (getting better) dinner at the forbidden City (Indochine) Tourist fair, reminded us of someplace in the UK trying to look like a place in the far east. Although the food was ok after CM it was not up to scratch and then a night cap at the esplanade. (throughout the day we got cabs or used the super easy, super effecient MRT)

Ohh i have forgotten to mention which guide books i have been using
BKK - Nancys map, luxe guide (i found this very helpful)
CM - Nancys map - Luxe guide
SP - I have been a few times but i did pick up a Luxe guide and also the marvellous walking guides which can be found at the airport (Do stop off and get them they really are good)
Unfortunatly for me i was suffering with a bad headcold the whole time we were in SP and on day 3 i was really struggeling, we went to Dempsey road to have a look at the warehouses (Shang Antiques is a particular favorite of mine) but i started to feel really rough so we decided to have afternoon tea at Raffles on our Balconey, what a treat, so so peaceful (i fell asleep in the chair) could have done with a few more sarnies but apart from that it was heavenly. Later that evening we got a cab (S$15) to the night Safari. Now i really like the NS and the BF enjoyed it too and i think its a break from the city and all that shopping. Back for a drink at Equinox at the Swissotel (Fab view place) and off to bed...
I should also add that the breakfast are really very very good at Raffles infact everything is incredible at Raffles and will stay here again for sure. Their reputation (IMHO) is truly deserved.

Next up Krabi..... (is anyone still reading?)
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 05:53 AM
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Oh forgot to mention the post bar in the Fullerton FAB for cocktails you MUST go, but avoid the bar food its grim.... great great bar though
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 06:15 AM
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i'm still reading! can't wait for your Krabi details, i'm staying at the Rayavadee soon and am wondering what you thought of it, lots of details please! and what was the weather like in Krabi?
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 07:17 AM
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JAne-Keep it coming. My wife is similar to your BF concerning info on Thailand and this forum. When you're in NYC, two very good restaurants are KittiChai and Nobu, Next Door. Kittichai is in SOHO in the Thompson Hotel. You will need reservations. It is elegant Thai food with startling adaptations. Nobu, Next Door is in TriBeCa and does not take reservations. Get there by 5:45 (1745 Hours) and you can probably be seated. We were the last at 6:00 p.m.
If you go to N,ND, let the waiter pick out your dishes. This turned out even better than the tasting menu.
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 07:42 AM
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Gpanda

Thanks so much for the tips re NY will try to check out NND (we only have 1 free night - corporate trip!!)

Will try and finish my report later if not will be next week....
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 08:47 AM
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Krabi

Tiger airways to Krabi I was really impressed with this airline, cheap, LOADS of legroom and very efficient BEWARE they adhere to their 15k baggage we were over by 18 k and we had to pay S$90 , but i appreciate they have a low baggage to keep costs down so this really didn't bother me (and they make it very clear) I wouldn't hesitate to use this arline again very very good.
Met at the (tiny) airport by the Rayavadee reps, transferd to a lovely mini bus (cool towels, cold water) for the 25 min trip to the speedboat landing sight. Nice pleasant journey.Speed boat transfer which was verrrry nice, scenery from a movie STUNNING. Arrived at the Rayavadee and taken to their lobby which is out of this world in fact i will say the decor, lighting, service, scenery in this entire place is simply the BEST we came across. Pool is lovely and they strictly enforce the guests only rule.
Our Pavilion was about 3 back from the pool (IMHO the BEST location) and well it took our breath away, it is the best "room" i have ever stayed in. (I want the designers number) HOWEVER we found the food to be a dissapointment and the lack of a late night bar a sort of meeting place meant the place lacked atmosphere. Sorry to say this because on all other counts this place is amazing. It is not cheap to stay here but the food is 3* OK its not hideous and the Thai restauarnt is nice but NOTHING special and cost about 3500bht for an evening meal with drinks (clearly i have been spoilt by the Antique House)
HOWEVER there are some bars etc down the beach so all is not lost (although we didnt go to these as we were both struck down with a bug for a few days)
All that said don't panic if you are going to be staying here sometime soon, the scenery nearly makes up for it and if its peace and quiet and bed by 10 your after then you have found the perfect place. The weather was a bit iffy (which apparently is unusual)
Beware of the Boutique its stocked with EXQUISITE things i spent a fortune in here... Fabulous. Did the sunset cruise which was ok but cloudy, staff were nice (as every single one of them are at this place)
Personally if they improved the chef/food buyer!! and put a bar in the lobby we would return with out question.

Transfer back to the airport was SUPERB (better than the Oriental!!!) X rayed baggage for us and even checked in our 2 (Overweight) bags in for us very very good.
Krabi really is lovely and we both said we will definately return.........
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 08:58 AM
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Seems to me for the prices Rayavadee is charging it should be flawless!
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