The Scruffman Chronicles: The Scruffman in India and Nepal

Here I am!

I should have know you'd be first! I have an update, just need to write it up. Thought I'd get to it tonight, but I haven't got the energy. Soon!

Me too

I think I'll just paste the latest e-mail in here. Greg writes so well, sometimes there's just not much to add.

Here to Mumbai, gone to Goa

I'm leaving Mumbai for Goa tonight. So far India is profoundly amazing, though overstimulating at times. I had a good time at the airport negotiating a cab fare from 700 rupees down to 350, though I'm amazed I actually survived the ride to guest house. Seemingly, the only rule of the road is that there are none. We nearly killed at least a hundred people while we careened through the streets.

Well, India is a land of extremes. Extremely dirty, extremely crowded, extremely smelly (both in good and bad ways), extremely humid, extremely loud (I have yet to count five seconds without hearing several car horns), but all in all extremely beautiful in its own unique way. The night time soundtrack changes from the hustle and bustle of human foot traffic to the sound of fighting packs of stray dogs and birds. There is no privacy here.

The poverty is both extremely depressing and extremely beautiful, depending on which part of the city you are in. When walking through a tourist area one can barely walk five steps without being hit up for money (or offered hashish thanks to my wild set of dreadlocks). Lots of hungry mutilated kids and women holding babies asking for money which is pretty hard to bear at times. But believe it or not, when you actually walk through a slum, no one asks for anything. In fact people often approach with no agenda but to be acknowledged or just to shake your hand to satisfy their curiosity.

It looks like I'll be heading to Goa for a few days to chill out on a secluded beach and decompress from Mumbai. Then I'll probably head to Kerala before going to Kanyakumari on the southern most tip of India where two oceans meet. The sunsets are supposed to be breathtaking.

After that I'll probably head north. I'm thinking maybe Varanasi for Holi (the festival of colors) or maybe Agra where the Taj Mahal is. From what I've been hearing Jaipur is not to be missed, so that's definitely going to happen too.

As for Africa I'm starting to think it's a lost cause for this trip. I've done some investigation and from what I understand it just isn't set up for budget travelers (which would be a generous description for me). I've been thinking about spending more time in Nepal and Thailand and definitely Laos because I've literally never heard anyone describe it as anything but amazing. I guess we'll see how far the budget goes.

I'm not actually finding India that cheap. To be fair Mumbai is the most expensive part of India, but while most things don't cost very much, nothing is free. But there is a bit of a learning curve so I'll probably do a bit better down the line.

Some people describe India as a different planet. I would go as far as to call it a different universe or even dimension. But I guess that's the fun part!

I, as well.

BTW, not to pry, but are you still employed? Some of your posts mentioned the dread word "layoff", and I would hate to have both you and the Scruffman without visible means of support.

bookmarking

The bad news arrived today, about when I expected. I am employed until the end of the month and they're going to pay three months of COBRA after that.

On the bright side, I have an interview tomorrow for a job I don't want that doesn't pay enough. Wish me luck.

"Overstimulating" -- perfect one word description of India!

(Good luck, artsnletters!)

Hi!!! The fan club pops in...

(Good luck with the job problem!)

bookmarking

I've never been in the Asia forum before, but I need to read the next chapter of this story.

Hi artsnletters - sounds like the scruffman is doing just fine in India. Do tell him not to miss Varanasi, and consider Cambodia as well as Laos.

[Much sympathy over the job situation - good luck!!!]

I'm still following, too!

Interesting reading!

bookmarking to follow the further adventures of the Scruffman!

Enjoying reading this thread. Please keep updating often.

If Scruffy goes anywhere near Chennai (Madras), I highly recommend some relaxing days in very tranquil Pondicherry:
http://tinyurl.com/yzspzhu

And in terms of Laos, Luang Prabang is heaven on earth, even though the dreadlocks crowd will try to entice him to settle in Vang Vieng.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/luang-prabang-photo-link.cfm

Artsnletters,

I might be getting to embroiled in The Adventures of Scruffman, but the subject resonates with me. One of my Sons, who reminds me a great deal of Greg, went to Thailand years ago after working a summer on fishing boats in Alaska. Soon after getting off the plane someone saw a naive soul and soon separated him from all of his money in a "sure fire" gambling scheme.

He was stuck, almost penniless, with only a return air ticket. Against his proud nature, he asked me for help. I sent him some money, of course, and told him if he quit it would disappoint me, as I saw his adventure as a wonderful thing which I wanted to continue. He wandered around the country, before settling in Samaui to work at a beach resort teaching wind surfing. He lived for a surprisingly long time on the small amount of money I had sent, but it eventually ran out. He was too proud to ask for more, and had to return, rather than continue his exploration and growth.

I guess what I am saying is that I have regretted that I was not able to give the kid a few more bucks to continue what I thought of as a lifetime experience that could only result in a richer future life for him. I will write you directly to explore this thought a bit further.

Dick

I have switched forums too, I am loving reading about Greg's travels.

I've never been on this board either. Greg is expanding lots of horizons

arts, I'm sorry to hear your job news. I will be hoping for a good outcome.

I'm here too! artsnletters, thank you for continuing to post about Greg's adventures, and I also wish you tons of luck finding a new job (one you want or otherwise!).

Still reading and enjoying the continuation.

I have been checking in still also. I work with children from India so Scruffman's adventures help me see the country from afar.

Best of luck on the interview tomorrow. If you get the job it will help you out until you can find the "right" job again. Keep us posted.

I'm still here too. This adventure keeps getting better and better.

Good luck with your job hunt.

My only son (and only child) trotted off to the UK one summer when he was 19 for six weeks. He went alone. His father and I were freaked that he had no traveling companion. I told him to call me each week (at which request he sniveled). He DID phone and after he returned, we had a phone bill of $567!!! He returned a changed young man --- much more confident in himself (but he did admit that he wished he'd had a buddy with him). Good luck in your job search!!

Happy and interested to read of his observations of India, and to hear that he is headed to Goa, and then further South before an upswing north.
Too bad about Africa, but I've no doubt he'll get there sometime in his future. He will have the benefit of this trip to see and appreciate that adventure in a different way.

Artsnletters: I'm following you too, and of course, your darling Scruffman, our fodorite ambassador

I wish you the best for the job interview, and I hope the job lasts only til you get one your REALLY like.

To those of you who have written me privately, thank you and I will back to you this weekend. As I'm sure you can imagine, it's been a difficult couple of days, but I appreciate hearing from you.

Arts-my 27 year old son just returned from a two year work experience(doing microfinance and finance) in India and it did change his life in many ways. He had spent a year in Delhi and then a year up in Dehra Dun (5 hours north of Delhi).He loved living and working in India-for me it was a very difficult two week vacation visiting him?
I hope that he stays healthy while there and enjoys the amazing food and culture!
Best of luck on the job situation?

OMG i have just found this adventure.. and instead of cooking dinner i have been reading this, i guess it's take away for us tonight.
This has to be one of the best threads (all of them)

Smeagol, where on earth were you, to miss this?

This is fantastic! I've just spent my lunch time reading the adventures of Scruffman! I'll be looking forward to me.

artsnletters - I hope the interview went well today.

I wonder if India is ready for this snowball, which has picked up devotees in the North America forum, then in the Europe forum, and now India.

All the best to Scruffman ... I so envy his experiences
... and Artsnletters: this saga-snowball you've created is so entrancing ... it shows a wisdom and ability that hopefully will quickly find you ensconced in a new job

Kerouac- i don't get out much from the Asia forum!!....... great read.

This will tell you something about the Scruffman: I got an e-mail from him saying, I haven't heard from you for three days, I'm afraid something's wrong, did you lose your job? There are several times when I didn't write him for a week or more, so it can't be that. He's just uncanny.

The interview seemed to go well. I will hear in a couple weeks.

Kerouac, did you say something to him about writing me? I'm getting much more detailed reports ever since your dinner.

More coming soon.

I did not tell him to write more to you, but I think I may have impressed upon him the incredible value and importance of maternal support. I think he already understood that, but maybe he understands it even better now.

I loved every minute of the US and Europe stories and now am happily waiting for more details from Asia!

How interesting that so many Fodorites seem to be attached to their continents! All you Europe folks who rarely visit the Asia forum -- if you're interested in reading some fantastic India stories you should search on the screen name dogster. Your whole idea of a trip report will be turned upside down!

I agree. I will certainly not disparage the Europe board people, since I am one of them, but their idea of excitement is usually about 20 notches lower than what happens in Asia (except of course for the 5-star hotel organized tour people).

The Hippie Life in Goa, with ADD Bookends

Oh my. Greg is just a wonderful person, but he does have ADD, and that can complicate a trip like the Scruffman’s. Twice in less than two weeks.

We’ve been through this once, already, with the ill-fated guitar that he forgot within three weeks of leaving home.

The first part I only found out after the fact. In his rush to make his plane from Milan to Mumbai, the Scruffman left his passport at his host’s apartment. Fortunately, he realized it (apparently at the airport) and she rushed to his rescue, bringing it all the way out to Malpensa. What a great person! And how lucky is Greg?

Well…. Stay tuned.

He’s had no complaints about Goa. ”I’m halfway around the world exploring beautiful white beaches dotted with coconut trees and beautiful women … Life truly doesn't suck!"

He’s been staying mostly at Palolem Beach, a somewhat developed beach popular with Israelis, for 250 rupees a night. But, being the Scruffman, he’s found a better deal.

He decided to walk from Palolem to Patnam Beach, a more secluded beach about 20 minutes away on foot:

”Along the path I stopped at a small hut to ask for directions and ended up staying and chatting for a while. They are an older German couple who moved to Goa about two years ago to sit on the beach and play music all day. After a nice jam session I continued my journey and finally reached Patnam. What a gorgeous beach! I jumped into the sea and just floated around for a while before turning around to head back. As I was climbing over a bunch of rocks I noticed an older fellow sitting between the rocks so I said Hi. As it turned out he was from Ann Arbor [Michigan, one of his stops across the US]. We had a really great conversation about books that we had read and life and the universe. I left feeling really inspired.

“The sun began to set as I continued down the beach. I noticed a few people playing guitars and drums so I went and joined in. The sunset was so beautiful I don't have any words to describe it. When darkness fell the others invited me into their place, called the Magic Cinema, and we played music all night long. I ended up staying there in a treehouse (seems to be a pattern) instead of walking through the dark roads with a stick to fight off packs of stray dogs as they go hunting. They offered to let me stay in the treehouse for 50 rupees a night [about $1.25]. They also said that when business is good musicians eat (and drink when business is really good ) for free. Unlike every other place I have been in India, the people in the Magic Cinema really all seem like a family, from the travelers to the people who run it. I think I'll stay here for a little while.”

One of the Scruffman’s favorite DJs will be playing in Goa on Valentine’s Day (!?!?!), so at this time he’s planning on staying that long before heading south. He admits it will be hard to leave paradise to throw himself back into the fray:

“India is dark...profoundly dark... I've been here less than a week and I've already seen some things that have been hard to come to terms with, but only fools (and the rich) come to a place like India to sit on a beach for months and ignore the reality of it all.”

But ADD has reared its ugly head again. As I have feared from the start, the Scruffman has lost his Schwab ATM card. He’s pretty sure it wasn’t stolen, and from the balance in his account that appears to be right. He has another ATM card with him for a different account that will get him by, but it has significant ATM fees, while his Schwab card has none. And he has a couple credit cards too, although that is a very expensive way of obtaining cash.

So the Schwab card will have to be canceled and replaced, and of course they’ll only mail it to his (my) US address. However, Mom is not without unexpected resources! I have a friend in Delhi from another travel site (IgoUgo, where I’ve posted my travel writing and photos in the past), and she has agreed that I can mail the new card to her and Greg can pick it up when he gets to Delhi, minimizing the time he’ll have to use the expensive ATM card.

He’s going to have to be more careful for the rest of this trip – I don’t have any more friends on other continents, certainly not in Thailand or Laos!

Well, Delhi is quite far north, so it might be worthwhile to look for another option so that he could pick the card up somewhere in the south. I'm sure that some of the India experts will have some ideas.

He wants to be in Varanasi for Holi, so I'm thinking he might fly from Kochi to Delhi ($65) to get himself more in the vicinity - otherwise he's got a very long trek from south to north after Kerala and Kanyakumari. Also, it's going to take a couple weeks to get the new card, plus however long it takes for it to get to India.

Definitely interested in the best way to mail to India - anyone know how long regular mail takes?

I am so enjoying reading Scruffman's travels. He seems to have such a lovely approach to life (and be blessed in his choice of mom. )

I am so glad you are posting this...for scruffman.

Scruffman has a lovely approach to life...and travel. Well done, Mom & Dad too.

Brings back memories when I was younger and travelled on the spur of the moment, and enjoyed it thoroughly. No great pre-plans, Needs were small, and rewards were great.

magical, there is no Dad in this story. The Scruffman's father essentially checked out of his life when Greg was 8 and finished the job of checking out when Greg was 13, so I have to take all the credit (and all the blame) for the Scruffman.

Amy and magical both, I'm glad y'all appreciate his mission and thanks for the kudos. But really, the Scruffman is very different from me, and nothing like his father (except in appearance), so I think we must all really give him the credit for being who he is.

I came across this yesterday, and it seems to fit here ...

" I want to love you without clutching,
appreciate you without judging,
join you without invading,
invite you without demanding,
leave you without guilt,
criticise you without blaming,
and help you without insulting.

If I can have the same from you,
then we can truly meet
and enrich each other ..."

Really enjoying reading this thread. He is doing well with his travels. The little ups and down are all part of the game.

Regular mail to Delhi takes about 8-10 days from any large US city. Since you will have an ATM card in it, a good idea would be send it registered mail, so it reaches safely and a signature is obtained from the person to whom it will be addressed. Make sure you have the right postal code (like zip code).

I think you can also send it by Fed Ex, but will be more expensive as it will be also quicker.

Remind him that Holi festival is a colorful celebration but often the locals play pranks, so he should be extra, extra careful with his belongings.

Do keep posting regularly as we are enjoying the adventure.

My son always said to be VERY careful with regular Indian mail as alot of it never gets to the person it should.

ileen, by "pranks" do you mean pickpocketing?

Thanks for the warning, dutyfree. I'm thinking of sending FedEx for both speed and I hope reliability. If the card doesn't get there (or gets pilfered), Schwab will refund any unauthorized withdrawals, and Greg does have another card to use if he never gets the new Schwab card, if worst comes to worst.

I have a bit to add to the story (some of it is pretty fun) but am hoping to hear a little more in the next day or so to put with it.

I'm not quite sure how it works, but my understanding is that you can get mail (and presumably FedEx deliveries) at an American Express office. Maybe someone knows more about that.

Dear artsnletters, thanks to "our" Gregg and your threads I am on the Asia thread for the first time in over a year.

First of all I am so sorry about your losing your job, may you find another suitable and well paying job ASAP and in the meantime "something" that will tide you over for now.

I am not absolutely certain but I believe quite some time ago Amex required a traveller to have an Amex card in order to receive mail at any of their offices but a call to Amex would certainly answer that question.

My very best to you and of course to your son!

Peter Pan at the Monkey Wars

After two weeks in the country, poor Scruffman reported that his stomach still hadn’t forgiven him for taking it to India. He finally gave in and took the antibiotics he’s brought from home and his misery ended almost immediately, so he’s now back to 100%. Of greater concern than a case of Delhi Belly is that he isn’t taking his malaria meds. He’s apparently pretty sunburned, and a few people who have the same medications he does told him that the medication will make his skin even more sensitive, to the point of finger and toe sunburns. He feels comforted by the recommendation of other westerners he’s met who have been living there for a while that he should just risk it, claiming that “malaria is almost never deadly, as long as you have access to a hospital within a few days." Somehow, this doesn’t make mom feel any better.

Life still isn’t dull for the Scruffman, who can’t even relax on the beaches of Goa without encountering some unusual event. One day his treehouse was attacked by a band of monkeys. As it turns out, monkeys are some mean and dirty bastards. They peed all over the roof and threw shit around and bared their teeth, causing all kinds of ruckus, so we chased them off with slingshots. It’s been some Peter Pan sht around here.” I feel safe saying that this is an adventure most of us will never have.

He’s spent most of his time in Goa hanging out at the Magic Cinema. He has purchased a good guitar (for the equivalent of about $65), so he’s musically equipped again. He ended up jamming with some ”older folks” (hate to think what that means) who tried to get him to play at an open mic at Palolem for a couple hundred people, which terrified him. However, the authorities have been shutting down all the music venues in south Goa, so it never came to pass, to his great relief.

According to his last message, he stayed put long enough to see his favorite DJ play on the 14th, but has since left most of his stuff with his friends in Patnam and headed off on an excursion north to Anjuna, Morjim and Arambol. The plan is to head back to Patnam, pick up his stuff, and then go to Karnataka. He’s now unsure he’ll make it to Kanyakumari – he is still hoping to make it north for Holi, but feels that since it’s celebrated almost everywhere it’s not a big deal if he doesn’t get to Varanasi in time. I’d suggested taking a flight from Kochi to Delhi to expedite his voyage north (going then to Jaipur and Varanasi) – I found a flight for $65 – but in typical Scruffman fashion he is loathe to commit. Plus, he says he doesn’t know where Kochi is and is struggling with the train system - ”India is not terribly organized and it is very hard to get a train exactly when you want it.” So he will let me know, which means he probably won’t.

To the best of my knowledge, he still hasn’t canceled his ATM card, although it still hasn’t been used so apparently isn’t in sinister hands. He’s not keen on my sending it to Delhi because he doesn’t really want to go there, but I hope he’s going to realize that it’s going to run into serious money over the duration of this trip if he has to use the card with the $5 charge. However, in the end this is his problem, not mine.

I haven’t heard from him for almost a week, and he hasn’t logged onto his couchsurfing page for three days, which always worries me a bit – probably for no reason. If I don’t get an e-mail, a log-on at least lets me know he’s OK and approximately where he is. I hope I will hear from him soon, for my own peace of mind.

The train goes to Ernakulam, not Kochi. He should probably get it at Madgaon. See http://www.indianrailways.gov.in/tag/PDF/Route%20map.pdf

I finally wandered over to this forum to follow Scruffy's adventures and am so glad I did. I hope Greg checks in soon and is continuing to enjoy his fascinating journey. Artsnletters, I'm so sorry to learn of your job loss and hopes your new prospect looks encouraging. Thank you for continuing to update us about your wonderful son.

Fingers crossed and candles lit for all good things for you, Artsnletters, and for the dear boy in India. I'm sure things will go well - and thanks for letting us armchair travelers tag along.

I confirm that the monkeys are mean in Asia. When you see several of them heading in your direction --- RUN!

According to today's one-line e-mail, the Scruffman is on hiw way to Gokarna and will then be heading to Hampi.

I've a feeling he may like Anjuna beach, though from what I've recently heard, its changed a lot from when I was last there many years ago. Everyones discovered the magic of the place and descended in hoardes.
Thanks for the interesting updates and continued good wishes to you both.

M.

Thanks for topping the thread in the Europe forum so that I could come over here and get caught up on the adventure.

I've been reading pieces of it to my strait laced, plan ahead, always have a plan B, plan C husband and even he is a bit jealous! We're torn between wanting this type of adventure for our son and wanting it for ourselves!

Fingers crossed for you about the job situation too!

I will have you know that artnletters had absolutely nothing to do with the creation of the "SCRUFFMAN ADVENTURE CONTINUATION FUND". None-the-less, such a fund was started by Fodorites identified with Scruffy, and the problems he was having with funding, credit cards, and a loving Mom who had just lost her job.

She was surprised and a bit weirded out when enterprising Fodorites wrote her at her email address, and then looked up her address on line and began sending small amounts, "Just in case the Scruffman got stranded some place, or had to come home prematurely just for the want of a few bucks". As I understand it, a PayPal account has been established.

I will say no more ---

Oh dear.

At this moment, I am aware of no PayPal account. I have received one unsolicited check. I sincerely hope nothing I've said can be construed as asking for money, or even suggesting that it is needed. Traveling on a shoestring was the Scruffman's choice, long before he left home - part of his vision for his journey.

I also want to be clear that while my own financial circumstances are of course shaky at the moment, the Scruffman was never relying on me for financial support. He is paying for his trip with his own savings (well, the college fund provided by his grandparents) - not with my monetary assistance. My work situation, for better or worse, has nothing to do with his trip.

This really isn't necessary.

Yikes....

artsnletters, I never thought you ever gave the slightest hint of requesting donations or any sort of financial assistance.

"It’s been some Peter Pan sht around here.” I love that line. It is so evocative.

I've been a silent admirer of this trip report for quite a while now. It is a wonderful adventure, and I thank you for sharing it. As for the other business that was just broached, sometimes you just have to let other people show a kindness if they are so inclined. I don't think it is any reflection on you, arts, except maybe that you have represented Greg and yourself in such a way that people feel safe making such an offer.

looking forward to an update...

I live in NE Pennsylvania and have a snow day today (YEAH!!), which has given me the time to finally get caught up on the Continuing Adventures of Scruffman.

Thank you for getting me to visit the Asian board, and to look a little bit farther outside my world. I'll have to do a Google-Earth of some of the locations that Gregg has visited, to give me a better understanding of his journey. (I'm surprised somebody hasn't mapped it yet).

My continued good thoughts and postive energy to both of you.

Robyn

artsnletters...just remember, no news is good news. I try to keep that in mind when I do not hear from my kids. I am not always sucessful, but it has always been true. You are a super MOM!

Artsnletters,

I am one of those that have secretly been reading (and envying) the adventures of Scruffman.

I just want to say what a great job you have done.

Thank you for sharing all of this with all of us.

Hi artsnletters! How are you and the Scruffman doing lately? I hope all is going well with you both!

Yep, I've been getting a bit antsy, too. Is he all right? You?

I have a friend who went to Goa for 16 days and who is flying back today. It just seems like a little blur of a trip compared to the way Scruffman is taking his time...

I was hoping there was an update here about the Scruffman. Another person interested in how he (and you) are doing.

Why parents tear their hair . . .

Sorry everyone. I do have updates, but it's been a very difficult couple weeks - end of job, and very very sick dog (Scruffman's favorite). Everyone is OK, including Scruffman and Scruffman's dog. I will try to write up some more for you soon!

Thanks for posting . . . glad scruffman and the pup are O.K. Sorry about the job situation. Update us when you can.

Hi Artsnletters,
Glad everything is ok. Hope everything turns out well for you on the job front.

Sorry you're having such a bad time - best wishes.

Sorry to be slow getting back on. I've just had a lot going on lately. Here's a short installment, but more coming very soon.

Scooting Around North Goa

Seeking adventure and music, the Scruffman left the bulk of his stuff at the Magic Cinema and headed to northern Goa in the company of an English traveler, Abby. It took them five buses to reach Anjuna, which the Scruffman describes as an armpit. They then rented a scooter to reach Morjim. The pilgrimage to Morjim was the result of the Scruffman’s desire to see Cheb I Sabbah, his favorite DJ. He reported that the show was fantastic, lasting all night, with fireworks all along the beach.

As it turned out, Greg reported that the only person more scatter-brained than he is Abby. She lost the key to the scooter, stranding them at Morjim for a day to get a mechanic to deal with the problem, and by the time it was fixed, someone had stolen Abby’s bag out of the compartment. At least he’s not the only one instigating mishaps along the way!

From there they headed up to Arambol Beach, which impressed Greg even more than Anjuna – he described Arambol as an a$$hole. However, it seemed to be something of a crossroads; they ran into their Danish friend Tom from the Magic Cinema before they even got off the scooter and within ten minutes had also run into two other Magic Cinema alumni, Zara and Lelu. Tom had come to Arambol to play bass at an open mic. As previously mentioned, the police had closed down all the live music in south Goa for reasons he didn’t bother to mention - I asked, but of course he didn't answer. So they stayed a couple days more so they could watch Tom play. And finally, Tom forced the Scruffman onto the stage to play a couple songs himself in front of the audience of 50.

At long last, they all made it back to the Magic Cinema, where Greg slept for a single night before collecting his goods and heading to Gokarna with Hamed, an Iranian he met at the Cinema – which must also be a bit of a crossroads!

Wonderful! You see -- Greg is already no longer the last person on the food chain.

I never thought he was anyway.

Gokarna Goings-On

So the Scruffman and his companion Hamed took a train and landed on the outskirts of Gokarna. From there, they took a bus into Gokarna and then walked about 20 minutes to Kudli Beach. The next day they hiked to Om Beach, which resembled its namesake, and eventually they landed on beautiful and secluded Half Moon Beach, which the Scruffman described as magical. At this point, Hamed headed back to Patnam, and the Scruffman stayed on. There followed a significant period of intercontinental silence: there is no electricity at Half Moon Beach, and the nearest computer was a 45-minute hike over big jungle hills.

On Half Moon Beach, Greg met Keran from Mumbai, who had studied in California for a couple of years. Keran had heard of a place called Yana which they both agreed sounded too good to pass up, and another excursion began. They hiked the two miles or so from Half Moon Beach into Gokarna and with great difficulty located and rented a motorcycle. They then took it down one of the worst roads the Scruffman had ever seen, deep into the jungle, in the dark, after the delay due to finding the motorcycle and being “sidetracked by a waterfall.” (I don’t know if that means they had to go around it, or they had to stop and enjoy it!)

Yana consisted of one chai shop, one temple, one huge jungle, and sixty massive towering psychedelic rock formations exploding out of said jungle. One had eight giant beehives halfway up the side, described as being as big as my backyard cottage (a 14’x14’x14’ cube) – just huge yellow and orange bubbles on the cliff face, which the Scruffman found pretty surreal. By the time Greg and Keran arrived at the temple at the base of the rock formation with the beehives, it was about 10:00 in the evening. They were lucky to run into the last two people leaving for the night, the temple’s holy men, who took our intrepid hero and his companion down about 3-1/2 kilometers of stairs to the chai house, where they were permitted to camp.

The next day the two hiked all the way back up the stairs in the heat, got back on the motorcycle, and attempted to ride it back up the path. It soon became quite apparent that the motorcycle was not up to the task with two people on it, so the Scruffman managed to hitchhike until the path became a reasonable road again. Finally the boys made a triumphant return to Gokarna, returned the motorcycle, and hiked back to Half Moon. The next morning, the Scruffman hiked back to Gokarna with all his gear and took a bus to Ankola, where he hopped on an overnight bus to Hampi.

I’m hoping for a little more material on the next stop and other related events to add to what I have already – perhaps in the next day or so? - and will post some more then.

Hi Arts'n,
Great to be back on the Scruffman's tail & tales.
Hope all's looking up for you, too.
Cheers
Bokhara

Go, Scruffman, go!
I'm so happy he's having such a good and interesting time.

Hey, remember me? I’ve been sort of preoccupied with life, but I need to catch you up on the story, which is of course proceeding even if it’s not appearing here.

Hills and a Hammock in Hampi

The Scruffman arrived in Hampi for what would be a stay of somewhat over two weeks and was immediately enchanted with its beauty: vast emerald green rice paddies spread out for 100km in each direction with scattered coconut trees, surrounded by massive hills of broken red rock. More monkeys as well, but nicer than the naughty Goan monkeys. A green-blue river runs right through the middle of town, dividing it into the temple side, filled with “tons of crazy temples,” and the tourist side.

The Scruffman washed up on the shores of Manju’s Place. Manju, the owner, gave him a room at half-price when he saw that the Scruffman carried a guitar, ”which as everyone knows is the international symbol of peace.” The group of fellow travelers staying at Manju's became a tribe by the end of the Scruffman’s stay, a bond official sealed by Band Lassis (“special lassis”) and a midnight scramble up the highest and most treacherous of the hills.

The only way across the river between tourist Hampi and temple Hampi was a boat run by a handful of young locals. These young men pass the time between ferrying boatloads of tourists by playing cricket next to the water. One day the Scruffman was coopted into a cricket game and it took him four hours to get away! He was a varsity pitcher on his high school baseball team, and perhaps the skills were somewhat transferable – plus in general he’s pretty athletic. I wonder if they hung onto him that long because he picked it up pretty quickly?

The Scruffman’s days were full of excitement. Most mornings he woke up at sunrise to climb in the boulders above town. (Mom wonders at this - is this the same guy who was so hard to drag out of bed in the morning his entire life?) Around noon, as the midday heat began to crank up, he hiked back to the guesthouse to spend the afternoons lying in a hammock, playing his guitar, or playing chess with other travelers. I was informed that playing chess has caused him to ”look at my whole life differently.” As usual, the Scruffman offered no further elaboration on this last, so I have no idea what the transformative properties of chess might be for him.

One morning he hiked the 1000+ stairs up to the hilltop Monkey Temple. As it was about 20 degrees cooler with a breeze on the hilltop compared to down below, he stayed most of the day, enjoying the simplicity of the temple and the unbelievable views in every direction. A few times he took his guitar and scrambled up to the top of the hills to watch the sunset from the top of the valley, apparently spending the night on the hilltop, as he remarked that it was incredible to wake up to see the sunrise and then climb back down the ridiculous route he had climbed and see what he’d been climbing on.

If only this idyll could last….

Thanks for the update Arts, Scuffman is spending a lot more time in India than in the other countries, he must be enjoying the life.

Captain Catastrophe Strikes

An e-mail arrived one morning bright and early. Bad luck! The Scruffman is now down to zero ATM cards.

As you will recall, one card was lost while he was beached in Goa. This time, the zipper on his guitar case broke and by the time he noticed the zipper, the ATM card was gone. As he says, the good news never ends – and he’s the one who signed off as Captain Catastrophe.

So first, since he needed to be able to check out of the Hampi guesthouse eventually, I had to wire money, which I had never done before. I got that done without too much difficulty. However, then the real challenge began: how to get him ATM cards for two different accounts and get them to him in India.

Thus began a series of arguments with Schwab, with whom the Scruffman has one account, and Wells Fargo, with whom he has another. My possession of a notarized full power of attorney from him notwithstanding, this turned out not to be easy. Three different people at Schwab insisted that I could neither cancel his old card nor arrange a new one for him, that he would have to do it himself. The fourth time I called, however, I got someone who quickly arranged for a card to be expedited to me without no further ado. Wells Fargo was easier – I am a co-signer on the account, so it was no problem getting them to talk to me, but they wouldn’t replace his card unless he called them himself. I know from experience that that was never going to happen. So I had them send me a new card for myself, which I could then give him. The ATM machine isn't going to care whose name is on the card!

Fortunately for Greg, I know just one person in the entire eastern hemisphere, and she happens to live in Delhi. I’ve known Madhulika for six or seven years through a different website where we both post travel writing. She is now a newly published author. I e-mailed her, and she agreed that I could ship the cards to her and she would pass them to Greg when he got to Delhi. So once I had assembled all the cards, I shipped them off FedEx to Madhulika.

It was one of those moments when it was convenient that I’m out of work, since I had a day or two to spend arranging all of this!

Greg did offer that, ”except for the inconveniences caused by my stupidity I'm in high spirits and have been learning a lot recently.” Hmmm. I wondering what he’s learning a lot about?

arts: that is BHANG lassi.
www.indobase.com/recipes/details/bhang-lassi.php

One look at the ingredients will show you what he's learning about. lol. No wonder Hampi was so enthralling...

Ahh, Sweet Bird of Youth. Well, I can't point the finger of scorn at that - but, if I might gently say, soon it might be time to teach him about 'consequences'.

Coming soon--dogster's food blog...

dogster, well, that does explain something. (Bong lassi! That I might have figured out!) However, he's been a consumer of the herb in one form or another for some time. Actually, without the cannabis it actually sounds pretty yummy. I guess it's not much different from making herbal brownies, and there's a whole story about that in the Scruffman's past. Where we live, it's easy to get a medical marijuana prescription, and having a small amount for personal use just gets you a ticket (if anyone even bothers with that). In such a climate, a stunning number of people of all ages are users.

So glad the Scruffman is doing all right! The longish silence had some of us worried.

arts - hope you are doing at least OK. Glad to hear about Hampi - I'm hoping to make it there later this year, although without a guitar and probably drinking plain ordinary lassis.... Hadn't heard about the emerald green rice paddies before, I thought it was kind of barren.

nukesafe, he is now in a communication blackout, so I'm sort of worried at the moment. I will get to that before too long. Two more installments coming before that.

Derring-Do and Death in Darkest Delhi

The Scruffman boarded a train to Delhi that was to take 36 hours. Due to delays, it turned out to be 45 hours. He remarked that he was the only westerner on the train and described it as an adventure without bothering to detail what sort of an adventure it was. Argh! Delhi had not originally been on his itinerary, but of course he had to get his ATM cards or the rest of his trip was going to be really, really complicated.

Anyway, he was able to connect with Madhulika, and ”it was all very 007,” a brief rendezvous in the center of Delhi and the exchange of an envelope. He offered to buy her a chai, but she had somewhere else to be, so the meeting was very short – but oh so essential and appreciated!

The Scruffman’s entire summation on Delhi: ”Delhi is probably one of the worst places on Earth. HOT, dusty, stinky, crammed full of people and cars and smog and bad vibrations. It was such a horrible place I almost enjoyed it just for the novelty of being in Hell.

After a very short stay, the Scruffman decided to go to Rishikesh. He had initially intended to go to Varanasi, but due to the imminent festival of Kumbh Mela, all forms of transportation to Varanasi were booked. His plan was to stay a few days in Rishikesh and then head to Varanasi once Kumbh Mela was over.

So he boarded the deadly bus to Rishikesh. Literally. The cabin lights were dimmed and obscured by swirls of dust. The Scruffman’s eyes had closed and he’d almost achieved the miracle of sleep on an Indian bus when HONK, SCREEECH, THUD! The bus skidded to a stop and the driver started yelling. All the passengers looked around sleepily. Ten minutes later they were ushered off the bus to see a man being wrapped in a body bag and put in an ambulance. After about two hours of waiting in the middle of the street, a replacement bus pulled up and took them the rest of the way.

Arts, so happy to read the continuing saga!

I was being really really patient and I am at last rewarded.

You must blame the long delay on me. The Scruffman has done an admirable job of keeping me informed. I have just been out of sorts with the job hunt and was not feeling cheerful enough to take it up. At this point I think I am becoming rather inured to the condition, at least enough to fill in his fans. I have two more installments almost ready and thank you all for your patience and your continued interest.

Thank you so much for keeping us posted. Best wishes to you and The Scruffman!

Okay, I bummed around the world when I was 17, 21 and 25, so I do know about traveling on a shoestring. I'm in my 50's now so maybe I'm getting cranky, BUT:

This kid has left behind is passport, lost a guitar, lost ATM cards (twice), lost the key to his moped. He bonds with a group of travelers based on their drinking Bhang Lassis (marijuana smoothies), goes climbing treacherous hills in the dark, and has put his mother, his friends, and his mother's friends to all sorts of trouble to bail him out of his carelessness.

Am I the only one who thinks this kid is really not mature enough to be traveling alone? After the second ATM card disappeared, I would have told my kids, "you figure it out."

1. He didn't lose the moped key. That was his companion.

2. It's not a maturity or carelessness problem. It's an ADD problem.

3. He has never fallen off or out of anything in his entire life. Always at the top of the jungle gym when he was 2 years old, the top of the tree when he was 10. I don't worry about him climbing.

4. Mom, Mom's friends, and Scruffman's friends don't mind helping out.

The pot use I'm not happy about, but it's practically de rigueur where we live and will be on the ballot for legalization this fall. As far as drugs go, it's not keeping me up at night.

Lcuy, I understand and appreciate your concern. But really, he'll be OK. He's made it this long - 7 months and counting. If it had been me, I wouldn't have lost a thing, but I would never have made it half so far nor had half so many interesting experiences.

Hmm, I'm thinking of visiting Rishikesh... An excellent reminder of why I try not to be on Indian roads at night. Trains, yes. Buses and cars, no.

I love the Scruffman's adventures, and look forward to the book I'm sure he will write. Also, that bhang lassi sounds absolutely delicious.

Thanks for the update. I, too, was trying to be patient and not request updates. So thanks for saving me! I have to say I am learning a lot about India and its cities/towns. I hope your job hunting is productive.

Many thanks for the Scruffman update! Hope all is going well and you hear from him again soon.

This is really good reading. Look forward to seeing the next installment.

We should call this post 'Romancing the Stone'.

arts, I'm getting confused on the chronology. He arrived Mumbai Feb 1st? Left for Goa Feb 4th, I think, then how long in Goa?

Two weeks Hampi, before Delhi, I believe. How long did he stay in Delhi?

One of us is confused about the Kumbh Mela and Varanasi. The Kumbh Mela is nowhere near Varanasi, in fact it's in Haridwar, only 15 km away from Rishikesh. He's not avoiding the Kumbh - he's headed directly for the epicentre. It finishes April 28.

http://www.kumbh2010haridwar.gov.in/

Hey, I'm just relaying what I was told. He was in Rishikesh for Kumbh Mela, but apparently the crowds headed for the festival were affecting transportation to Varanasi.

According to my notes, as near as I can figure:

1/30/10 Mumbai
2/4/10 Goa
2/15/10 Anjuna, Morjim, Arambol
2/22?/10 Gokarna
3/3/10 Hampi
3/20/10 Delhi
3/24/10 Rishikesh

Good title for the previous installment, wish I'd thought of it!

Thanks for that. Now I'm even more confused.

I think it's April. Hang on, I'll check. Yup, It's April. So has he been to Rishikesh, or is he going to Rishikesh? Is this whole report on a one month time lag - or is one of us on the Bhang Lassis?

He's been to Rishikesh, and has moved on. I'm two installments behind. I hope I'll get to the rest in the next day or so.

Dates are sometimes a little fuzzy because I will wager he isn't keeping track himself and often writes, "I'm going to ____ tomorrow," or "Last week I went to _____." When he comes to writing his book about this trip (I hope), he may appreciate that I've tried to keep track of this for him.

Given what he had to say about it, I'm surprised he lasted three or four days in Delhi - if I have the dates right.

Ahhh, gotcha - but I fear that, in the same way many of us can't recall the Seventies OR the Eighties, your dear son may be a little hazy on rather a lot of his trip thus far. The novel may have to wait till the boy has something interesting to say. I think YOU are writing the novel - without even knowing it.

This is really a story about a loving mother who adores her son. The travels of the lad are incidental. What shines through this is your personality, the relationship you have with your son and the relationship he has with you. It's a love story.

Love is, occasionally, blind.

Which is, I think, as it should be.

I wouldn't bet he won't do it, dog, but you may be right. Love isn't, in this case though, terribly blind. I do adore my son, but I think I have a pretty realistic view of who he is.

As it turns out, he had the details right about Kumbh Mela. I just didn't read closely enough until I was editing his remarks for posting. And those are coming up, next post.

Rishikesh and Kumbh Mela

The Scruffman spent the first few days in Rishikesh recovering from Delhi, and then ”the real madness ensued." He met an Indian fellow named Anjit who took him to see a guru, or so he claimed. The guru led them around as if on a leash all day, first to the Ganga to drink and heal their their souls and, and then to a Pujah ritual at the Shiva temple in a town up in the mountains.

”When the sun went down, we went to Hardiwar, host of the Kumba Mela, India's most important holy festival and this year the largest gathering of human beings EVER. Millions of Babas smoking chillums and bathing in the Ganga in organized groups. The real show was the Naga Babas. The Naga Babas are naked and are famous for using self-flagellation to induce spiritual trances which grant them magical powers. What kind of horrible self-flagellating rituals do they perform, you may (or may not) ask... Well, some Babas wrap their penisesaround a stick about one meter long and twist several times. Then they pick up twenty kilo weights (or occasionally people) and walk around. This may sound crazy to you, but the Indian folks worship them like demi-gods. Crazy.

“Later Anjit took me to see Goa Gil, an American DJ that brought trance music to India and is now a Baba. Goa Gil and several other Babas were all in a camp in the middle of town smoking chillums all night long and chanting "Boom Bolenat!" That was a very surreal day.”

Short and Not-So-Sweet in Varanasi

From Rishikesh, the Scruffman took another train ride to Varanasi, which he described as “the most morbid city on Earth.” He visited a few temples by day, but described the city as a pressure cooker, 42 degrees C (110 F) in a congested smoggy, filthy city. At night he took a boat along the Ganga to witness a spectacular Pujah ritual done on the river with smoke and fire. He wandered along the Ganga to see the crematoria, basically just bodies being burned, next to the Ganga and then the half charred corpses being dumped into the river, dogs following after snarling and fighting over the bones. The Scruffman offered no commentary on the effect of this experience, which seems pretty, um, challenging to the average (or even non-average) westerner.

I should add, dogster, that he has written some really evocative and moving accounts of his experiences at Burning Man, at which I know he has spent some significant time under the influence of one substance or another (don't worry, folks, not hard drugs, which he knows I would kill him for even though he is smart enough not to go there without my telling him). Oh - and it was not just me who thought that about his writing. I'm just serving here as some institutional memory, some of which was prearranged between us. I told him that I would save any e-mails he wrote for his future reference.

That love story idea had kinda crossed my mind too. Oh well. I'm a mom, what can I say.

dogster: I'm laughing. Guessing you really meant Romancing the Stoned?

Hitchhiking across the US, sleeping under highway overpasses.
Sleeping alone in a park in Copenhagen in a snowstorm.
Not taking anti-malarial medications in a malaria zone (Goa).
Rock-climbing at night in Hampi.

Now, after all the rest of this, we get to the part that I’m feeling uneasy about.

Into the Himalayas

The Scruffman then hit the road again, headed for Nepal. India sent him packing with the parting gift of his second case of Delhi Belly plus a fever, which turned up while he was on the two-day bus ride. He reported that two days on a bus with diarrhea is pretty awful – I bet not just for him. He slept for his first 16 hours in Pokhara and awoke feeling significantly better.

”Luckily, I have landed in paradise. Oh my, the mountains, the mountains, the mountains.”

I was awoken one morning by a phone call from Fraud Detection at the Scruffman’s bank. After approving two ATM withdrawals of $140, the bank declined the next three attempts for the same amount and wanted to know if these were legitimate. Apparently this is a common pattern if a card is stolen: keep withdrawing the maximum amount of money until there’s none left. Well heck, I don’t know! I agreed it was suspicious and we left the freeze on the card while I tried to contact the Scruffman. As it turned out, I think our e-mails must have crossed. The ATM only permitted withdrawals of 10,000 Nepali rupees at a time, and he was trying to accumulate enough for the next leg of the trip. OK, so I contacted the bank again and got everything cleared up.

Once recovered from his illness, the Scruffman walked down to the water at sunset with his guitar and met a group of young Nepali men, with whom he of course made immediate friends. He hung out with them all night, and I guess at dawn two of them, Jimmy and Saresh, offered to take him around the Annapurna circuit, including some areas that tourists don’t go. The plan is to stay at the cheapest places and eat the local food, not tourist food, and avoid every possible cost while hiking the road less traveled. For a month, he’ll live in the mountains like a Nepali, but with toilet paper.

The flood of cash withdrawals was in part because he doesn’t anticipate there will be any ATMs in the mountains. This is to be his “last hurrah” before starting homeward, and he wanted to be sure of having enough to survive. He told me to expect a communications blackout of about three weeks.

The Scruffman spent a day getting his permit and all the other “stuff” he’ll need to complete the trek. He ate dinner that night with Saresh and his whole family in their little hut next to the creek, which the Scruffman described as “a beautiful experience.”

”Here goes nothing.”

Yikes, hiking where the tourists don’t go, with guys he just met.

And that’s the last I’ve heard from the Scruffman, a week ago now.

Well, it takes longer than a week to do the Annapurna circuit (which is a well-traveled trek). This section worries me less than some others, but then I'm not his mother!

At least it is spring rather than autumn. That's good.

Don't worry, arts. The Great Fodorite Search Party, which was standing by last year to rescue Dogster from his tribal adventures in India, can modify its bylaws and, if needed, set out in search of Scruffman, with Dogster now leading the charge, of course...

Nah, I'm not gonna look for him. Consequences.

I've seen too many Scruffmen to be impressed at this latest cupidity. Go here arts: thedogster.wordpress.com/courtyard-cabaret. And here: thedogster.wordpress.com/panjim. [second half] That'll be enough, any more will scare you.

It's a breed. In a strange way, quite a lot of these problems are deliberate. Sub-consciously, anyway - any ol' guru will tell you that. lol. It's an interesting phenomenon. He's creating the theatre of his trip.

Perfectly normal: but when you go back over this adventure you'll see that it's all a list of unnecessary drama; 'when I lost the credit card,' 'when I got sick', 'When I caught the 45 hour train to Delhi', 'when I lost the credit card again,' 'when I maxed out the credit card in Pokhara,' 'when I got sick again,' etc. etc - which is all a lot of interruption to the business of being in India.

But he's not really IN India; he's actually traveling in a country called 'Scruff', which is as good a place to be at his age as any. I certainly spent many years touring the Wonderful World Of Dog before I realised there were better places. lol.

I'm afraid arts, your boy isn't the first or only feral youth in the eternal Goa/Hampi/Rishikesh/Varanasi/Kathmandu nexus. They're like a sub-species in the sub-continent. Luckily, they are a 'tribe'. [Now where have I heard that before? Le-e-e-et the Sunshine In...] so will probably look after each other.

He'll re-emerge, probably in a couple of days having discovered that trekking isn't much fun and, being who he is, will lose all his money, get sicker, wallow for a while in Pokhara, then go back to Kathmandu and stay at the Courtyard Hotel for mmm ... about a month. lol.

Expect the next distress call from Pokhara in a week. He'll probably want you to post a new arse to him having mislaid the old one.

Ah, you way overestimate how worried I am - not all that much.

"Cupidity"??? "Dictionary"??? I'm surprised, a man of your vocabulary.

Good heavens, how naive do you think I am? I'm well aware that he is treading a very well worn hippie path. And of course I hardly think he's alone there, or that they sit around drinking tea and singing kumbayah all day and all night.

I'm missing the point of why getting sick for a handful of days in a developing country is "drama," why taking a train for 45 hours in a country where that's the way people get around is "drama," and I don't see how he was going to avoid the ATM withdrawal "drama" given that he needed to make multiple withdrawals in a short period of time. If all that is "drama" to you, you must have a pretty theatrical life. It seems to me to be pretty humdrum stuff. I only related the lost-ATM-card story because, frankly, I found it amusing.

He may be back from trekking in a couple days, but he won't have disliked it. He's an avid rock climber, hiker and camper at home - what about trekking wouldn't please him?

Haha, and he hasn't got a month. He already has flights scheduled out in early May, just before his visa expires.

Look, I've read some of your stuff (very entertaining BTW), so I understand where your scorn is coming from. I've been posting this because it was requested by a number of people who are enjoying the story. I appreciate having others to share it with, because in my world there isn't anyone who's that interested in travel of any kind. If this is all just too cliche for you, well, there's no need to open the thread and sweat boredom all over it. I'm sure you can find more rewarding reading material.

Totally rude, unhelpful, and uncalled for, Dog.

I'd have thought Scruffman's adventures were the very antithesis of cupidity, Dogster.
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/cupidity

I wouldn't worry too much about Artsnletters either: Nothing she's written gives me the impression of naivity or gullibility - seems to me that she has a very good knowledge of her son.

I'm enjoying reading about your son's trip and travails. Although I have been to India and Nepal, his is a journey I never experienced so I find his adventure most interesting. Keep the story coming.

Maybe the dog is feeling his age reading this?

Unfortunate is the word that can mean only what freedictionary.com says...

My word, yes, you are right - 'cupidity' - what was I thinking? I meant to say 'stupidity'.

Mum, you're sounding a bit defensive. If you're going to present your son to an audience, you really do have to expect a reaction - but I can tell you're not really going to hear what I have to say at the moment. That's O.K. Shoot the messenger, it's always easier. Pollyanna rules.

Ah, well, I've learnt two lessons; now I know the real meaning of 'cupidity' and I know I must never have an opinion again. Do you think, ju-u-u-ust possibly, that my posts are written in support of you? Try reading them again.

Better still, why don't you just delete them? That'll be the easiest. Just click on the little ! mark above.

I think you need to re read Dogsters post and take it all with a grain of salt. I dont think he meant any harm.

Like you Arns my son travels the same way and I am always on the edge of my seat waiting for the next email or what have you. I can feel your excitment and anxiousness all at the same time.

But then I think also that the 'apple maybe does not fall far from the tree?' I know that is true in my case and my son got his wanderlust from me I am sure, and the same maybe true of you.

How exciting for him and memories he will have for the rest of his life. looking forward to more.

I agree w/ live42day. Reread the dog's posts. What he is saying is his take on your trip report - each to his own - no? Some of it is insightful -- take it all w/ a grain of salt if you wish. I don't think he intended it as a harsh criticism of you, your son or your reporting.


As for the trip report I have been lurking through the entire adventure and love it. The whole backpacking culture is fascinating. Scruffman throwing himself out there into the unknown is a story I can really appreciate. It sort of makes me wish I was a guy . . . throwing my tall blonde self out there in India and Nepal the way he does would not produce the same results. Keep sharing please.

Defensive, no. I think you underestimate me as both a mother and a person, and certainly you are overestimating my Pollyanna capabilities, which aren't well developed at all. If you knew the story of my life, you'd know why, and that goes for what's up in my personal life at the moment. But I also think you underestimate my son, whom after all you don't know. I'm sure there is plenty of drug use among other young travelers who are also engaging in same. That doesn't mean he's not also having a parallel experience which is a lot more interesting in general, and which probably would be more acceptable to your idea of what travel should be.

As for the goof-ups, obviously I hear more about those because people do tend to mention that sort of thing. Most of it seems pretty innocuous to me, especially for a traveler in the developing world. I myself got sick for a few days on a four-month trip to Europe, but hey, I likely would have gotten sick for a few days if I'd stayed at home too. I think most of the events you find "dramatic" are nothing significant but rather amusing, as I am pretty sure my son does too.

I did see the support in your posts, but I also thought your penultimate post was pretty snarky. However, I'm not a user of the gray triangle, and certainly not for what you've said, which frankly is pretty tame as snarkiness goes - I spend a little time in the Lounge, which is the home of snark, to characterize it in the kindest terms.

(PS - I thought you meant stupidity. Well, yeah. But apparently he's surviving anyway.)

OK everyone, I will lighten up. As said, I spent a little time in the Lounge, where by general practice snark should nearly always be met with greater snark.

Dog, my apologies. I do enjoy your writing, and I really don't want you to bite your tongue. Your acerbic wit is part of what makes your contributions so entertaining.

Dogster knows that type of traveler so well, likely because you see so many of them, and they stand out so jarringly in Asia.

All so sure they have managed to look totally unique and local in their uniform of Punjabi pants, Goan tunic, Pakistani keffiyeh, and Rastafarian caps covering the real (or fake) dreadlocks. Each one struggling to show that they can live on so little - despite the allowances arriving regularly at the western union office.

They expend a lot of energy imagining they’ve become at one with the country, when in fact, spending their days challenging the locals with a blatant disregard of cultural mores isolates themselves from the real Indians just as effectively as the western tourists climbing off the tour buses in Bermuda shorts and ankle socks, or gasp!, the even older travelers seeking to find what’s real from the comfort of our Oberoi rooms.

And, as mentioned, the dramas created - by inattention, being high, by just plain ignoring their "sense of place"- become the trip. Why bother thinking things through? The misadventures make a much better saga; especially if you have friends and family to participate in the grand rescues. It is a great way to postpone real life, for a few months (or years). It’s fun, it’s a grand detour, but it is still just a slack-about, not responsible independence

I have no idea if Scruffman fits into this genre, but either way I applaud his stepping out to find his own adventure. I'm glad Artsandletters is able to find joy in his travels as well.

Plus it does make interesting reading! How can he be so clueless? Can he top this with something even more absurd? Will his helicoptering angels continue to protect him?

Stay tuned.

I understand both Dogster's and Art's points of view. Those of us who have traveled quite a bit in difficult countries can smile wryly at some of Scruffman's "mistakes" or "naïveté" about certain things, but we should never forget that we started out exactly the same (and if we didn't, we didn't appreciate things as much because we were being too cautious and wary).

Artsnletters knows that I have a particular fondness for her son's adventure, particularly since people have become so jaded in the 21st century -- either they've already seen it all on the internet, or they found out on the internet that it's too dangerous or not worth doing anymore. Yes, we are all on the internet at right this moment, and it is replacing life instead of letting us live our own version of life. At least Scruffman is out there, experiencing real things.

I really do hope that he will pass through Paris again on his way home, but I wouldn't want his mother to twist his arm again.

I don't intend to be defensive, but just for the record:

The Scruffman was self-supporting and living independently for three years before he left on this trip. During that time, he never asked me for a dime. He rented the same apartment for the entire three years and has a great reference from that.

The Scruffman is paying for this trip out of his own money. My entire financial contributions have been limited to: (1) a $75 bus ticket from the Bay Area to Portland, (2) $150 for a Christmas present, and (3) using my frequent flyer miles for one leg of his homeward airfare, for a birthday present (his birthday was in March). He knows full well that I don't have anything to give monetarily - especially now, while I am out of work. I'm not even in a position to put him up temporarily when he gets home. When I wired him money, it was his money I wired. He is not on any sort of "allowance." He has to live on "so little," because when his money is gone, his trip is over.

He reported that his entire purchases in India amounted to a guitar, for reasons that seem quite obvious, and a pair of shorts, because the climate is quite different from what he got in Europe in winter. I know he doesn't have money to spend on adopting an Indian "uniform," nor is he the sort of person who goes in for uniforms of any kind anyway. For today's young, I think dreadlocks are just one of a range of quite common hairstyles, also including Afros, ponytails, buzz cuts, and shaved heads.

My concrete involvement in this escapade (helicoptering, if you prefer) is limited to:

(1) Managing his money on this end, as it's difficult and somewhat risky to do it on his end, what with sometimes questionable internet security and non-private phone opportunities, plus I can do it 24 hours a day for free (unlimited phone minutes) in a secure environment.

(2) Making his air reservations, because I pretty much do that for many people as a hobby for my own pleasure, so I know how to find him good deals - plus I have free, 24-hour, fast internet.

(3) Wiring him money, once, and arranging to get replacement ATM cards to him. Frankly, this is the only thing I've done that I think could remotely be construed as helicoptering, which doesn't seem all that bad.

As for being absent-minded, occasionally forgetful, or just plain dumb sometimes, well, if you want to make that interpretation, you're entitled. I'm not sure that "clueless" entirely applies, or he wouldn't have managed all this time on his own, except for those three things listed above. So far, he hasn't been mugged, ripped off, or even gotten lost.

And hey, isn't this the part of life when it's best to make all your dumb mistakes and get them out of the way?

For completeness, here's what arts wrote earlier:

Sweden had come up before – actually, as a sop to the grandparents who ended up funding this trip, if unwillingly, because they had set up the college fund that became the trip fund.

artsnletters, keep the chronicle coming.

For those of us frustrated travelers who took the traditional path, it is a breath of fresh air to hear of his (mis)adventures! For all the nay-sayers, there are few that would take the risk and go for the adventure that he did.

I know its been a tough Winter/Spring for you - sending good thoughts your way.

Yes, please keep this thread going. I have always enjoyed traveling and I am enjoying reading about your son's adventures. What an experience he will have to look back on later in life!

I hope that you are remaining optimistic in your pursuit of a job. Continued good wishes from me to you!

Hey arts! I'm so glad to see you came back and gave us an update on Greg's adventures. I've had a crazy schedule lately, and don't have much time for Fodor's, but I do find myself periodically checking in to see if you've posted any new information on our intrepid traveller. Keep the updates coming.

Robyn

Didn't he also leave a guitar, Ipod and journal in a car while hitchhiking to NYC?

And his passport in a couchsuring apartment?

And a second ATM card disappeared out of his guitar case just days after losing his first one?

Come on. This adventure is one long camel train full of cluelessness. That's okay. I'm enjoying the saga.

Just please don't try to convince us that the emperor HAS clothes!

wow. so nice that everyone else is perfect. can't we just all agree to keep the judgments and snarkiness to the political threads ?

oh, and since you are all so perfect, better do a better job of spell checking first.

Look at it this way: x amount of mis-adventures will happen in the world. If they happen to someone else, it reduces the likelihood that it will happen to you. just play the odds.

If proper spelling becomes a requirement on the Asia board, the adventures of Gpanda and Rhkkmk will be history. Capitalizing the first letter in a sentence is about the best you can hope for here.

Loving the trip reports Arts, I fully understand where you are coming from, I enjoy spending time on the net, and booking air fares etc for my adult children too, they know I like to do it, and it saves them having to do the research.

So what if Scruffman forgot/misplaced some things on his adventures, it doesn't mean he has to be criticised for that, it is who he is. As Arts has said frequently he suffers from ADD, and has coped with this all his life.

Bring on the rest of his adventures.

I'm looking forward to more of Scruffman's adventures too! I hope he checks in soon, both so you won't worry and so I can hear the next update.

I continue to enjoy hearing about Scruffman's adventures. Others' opinions are just part of the journey. Please keep the stories coming. Hope you are making some progress on the job front.

I too am loving the updates, he is a young guy having an adventure most would never dream of let alone embark on. Good for him, the mishaps are part of life i guess, I wish I had had the bottle in my teens to travel as he has.
Thanks for the continued updates Arts.

For those who believe the Scruffman is having a drug-infested trip totally within the stereotypical hippie crowd (as well as those who are interested in his trip for its own sake and his), I post the entire relevant portion of the Scruffman's e-mail received this morning, verbatim:

"I'm heading into the mountains once again for about five days to stay with some of Saresh's family. I've sort of been adopted, they feed me a dal baht (the staple Nepali meal of rice and lentils) every [day/night?] at their little hut by a creek not too far from where I stay in Pokhara. It's really nice to escape backpacker world for a while, something I rarely was able to accomplish in India, mainly because most locals who approached me were only interested in my money. I'll be going up with Saresh, his wife, and his two little daughters. I must say it is very humbling to be shown such generosity and hospitality from people with so little."

I keep liking Greg more and more!

Having followed the chronicles, that seems to fit very closely to what I imagine from them to be his character.

arts, thank you for continuing to post. Greg's story is so different from any I would normally experience - I have loved hearing it.

Hi, finally weighing in after following Scruff for several months now. I also applaud his journey and think he's the perfect age and has the right attitude to really gain valuable insights that will remain with him for the rest of his life.

Kids, even mostly independent 23 year olds, are somewhat more trusting and easygoing than their jaded elders. Not a bad thing in most cases.

I also think you're a good Mom, concerned of course, but supportive and interested in his trip and life. He smokes a little pot? OMG people, didn't you at that age? There are far worse vices. He sounds like a genuinely empathetic young man, nice job you've done.

Best wishes for the rest of Scruffman's trip - I look forward to reading about it, please do not stop posting.

Arts - I have followed Greg's journey from the beginning. I rarely reply to posts - just lurk and enjoy. BUT want to agree with others, please continue to update us on his journey! (I have never been on the Asia board before - no reason to be - until now. Best wishes to you and your most interesting son. CJ

I am certain that more is on the way, but less development is now required since we know Scruffy so well. It is an intuitive journey.

I appreciate all the support of those of you who are following the story. I am waiting to get another installment, which I hope will be along soon. However, as the Scruffman himself put it, "I just have a really hard time writing eloquently when I'm in a run down noisy sweaty internet Cafe with Clinton era connection and PCs and constant electrical blackouts." I hope I'll have more in the next week or so. Thanks for your patience!

Glad to hear he is still plugging along! My oldest son just got back from India to his home in Belgium yesterday. He spent six weeks there, mostly in small villages in the hinterlands, on a buying trip for his Christmas markets in Germany. He made it back safely, and so will Greg.

I'm still here too, Arts, and most interested in the Scruffman's travels.

I may have said it earlier, but he is learning a whole lot about life, and expanding his own, and you are being the best kind of Mom. Just keep it up, and keep us apprised when you can.

Arts is a woman?
Thought you were a man but keep us posted.

Yes, I am a woman - I am the Scruffman's mom. At the SF GTG, I found that people thought I was a man named "Art" who would give some balance to thereyet's harem (Fortunately Mr Gio showed up to help out in that regard.) The photo on my profile page is of the Scruffman, from a photo taken at his dinner with kerouac in Paris - posted by request.

To everyone, I haven't forgotten you. I'm still waiting to hear more. I have been promised a phone call in the next day or two, and then I will be back to finish this part of the story.

Does the Scruffman know that I've been going thru withdrawals?

catcrazy, I'm with you! I was promised a call a couple weeks ago. Then I was promised a call today "for sure." Instead I got an e-mail saying the person with the computer didn't show up and that he would try again tomorrow. He has been having trouble getting (1) a computer with (2) skype and (3) a headset and (4) an internet connection all together in the same place, at a time of day when I'm likely to be available to take the call. In my last couple e-mails to him, I told him that the Scruffman Fan Club was giving me grief and want to know what's going on, so to hurry up!

I hope I will have news for you all in the next couple days.

What a patient mom you are! Thanks for this reply. I'll be eagerly awaiting his next post.

HaHa
Never needed to comment but I have to agree with CatCrazyaf, we're going through withdrawals without our Scruffman updates! Hope his computer and skype and all that other stuff comes together because I've gotten SOOOO addicted to this blog.

Does he not realise he has a serious responsibility to his fans? Up with this we will not put! Here we all are - suspended on a hill top, bongos in hand (or is that bongs?), waiting for the next leg of our trip ....

LOL Bokhara!

Whatever are all you people going to do when he gets home, eventually, and there's nothing more to add???

Send him on another trip!!!!!!! ("Oh, no," says Mom).

When he gets back you'll have to write about how he's adjusting to life back in the US. Otherwise all our lives will get so boring!

Finally I received my call this morning. More coming before long! You will not be disappointed.

I am quivering with anticipation. Has he grown extra arms and an elephant trunk?

Anyway, he doesn't have to go all the way back to India to find India: http://tinyurl.com/2vaonbj

The Himalayas May Be Tall, but Nepalis are Short

They’re about 5 feet tall in Nepal.

This was the Scruffman’s response to my (retrospective) concerns about his first trekking journey into the Himalayas in the company of Jimmy and Saresh, young Nepalis he had met when playing guitar by the river. Beyond his usual uncommonly good judgment about people, I don’t think he could imagine them being a worthy threat. The Scruffman is of modest height and hasn’t been “tall” since he was 12 and got his major growth spurt early, but he’s tall enough to feel quite tall around these fellows. He reported that he found it a bit odd to see some western trekker hiking along with a single pack, while the little Nepali bearer followed carrying three times as much.

Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

He hiked the Annapurna Circuit for five days with Jimmy and Saresh. Somewhere 3000 meters up, he re-met Jeff, a Canadian whom he had first met on the train between Rishikesh and Varanasi, curled up in a ball clenching his stomach and vomiting. They ended up, once Jeff had pulled himself together, trekking the rest of the time together along with the Nepali men. Their exploits included a high altitude chess game, the Scruffman now being an aficionado. The Scruffman is an avid hiker, camper, and rock-climber, and he raved about the beauty of the mountains.

I'm working on the next installment. I hope it will be ready later today.

Now I’m going to disappoint dogster, lcuy, and whoever else farther up the thread thought they knew what the Scruffman is about better than those of us who have been following his story for many months.

The Scruffman Becomes a Nepali Villager

Apparently it was Greg’s guitar playing that first attracted Jimmy and Saresh; Jimmy is a good guitar player, and Saresh wants to learn. Jimmy spoke good English, but Saresh spoke little. Nonetheless, Greg ended up becoming much closer to Saresh over the course of his sojourn in Pokhara. Greg found himself more or less adopted by Saresh. Greg was a daily guest in Saresh’s home, including taking his meals with the family in their little hut by the river. The meals were all exactly the same: dal bhat, the Nepali national dish, consisting of lentils, a green salty sauce, and a massive plate of rice. Apparently the duties of a host include insisting that every bit of the food be eaten before he could leave. They eat twice a day, and Greg commented that it was so much food, but not filling.

As the Scruffman had become a virtual family member, Saresh took him along to visit his family in their mountain village, about three hours from Pokhara. Saresh brought his wife and two little daughters, Salina and Sunita (6 and 2 years old) with them. Greg’s stay in the village turned out to be challenging, as no one besides Saresh spoke any English at all – he suspects that the village had never had a western visitor before. I asked him how he got along; he reminded me of his trip to Japan while in high school, in which he sat on the street playing guitar and had conversations with those who stopped, even though he spoke no Japanese. Maybe his intuitive skills? I don’t know.

He reported that the village was really beautiful, very poor. Saresh’s extended family lives in a tiny mud hut, perhaps 300 square feet? with eight people living in it. They haven’t had electricity for months and months and months (“because the government sucks”), had no clean water, and cooked over a small fire. They sleep three to a bed, in beds smaller than our twin beds. He wanted to sleep on the floor, but they wouldn’t let him and gave him his own bed. Despite their privations, the Scruffman said he had never seen people so happy. Even the teenagers smiled all the time, not jaded, cynical, or rebellious – they were genuinely happy and really sweet kids. He observed that the poor take care of each other and are much more humane than the more well-to-do. He was charmed in particular by the children, especially Saresh's cute daughters, and said he took lots of terrific photos.

For the duration of his visit, the Scruffman joined the life of the village. He helped harvest the rice. Everything in the village gets there by being carried, up and down multitudes of ancient stone stairs and very dusty mountain trails, for miles and days, on the heads of the people. He joined in the carrying, using the same pad-and-forehead-strap system the Nepalis use and carrying everything on his head. He found it hard to balance, but at the same time said it was better for his back. He became something of a surrogate father to Saresh’s little girls, and every night he played guitar for all the kids. He did some hiking, generally in the company of the children, whom he found impossible to escape – he was swarmed by a posse most hours of the day and had no privacy at all. The kids don’t really go to school, having only two classes a week, so they had lots of free time to pursue the Scruffman. Greg told me the Nepalis still have a caste system, although it supposedly will die out with the older generation, and Saresh comes from a very low caste.

At the end of his visit, when the Scruffman had returned to Pokhara and was preparing to leave, he wanted to thank Saresh for all his hospitality and kindness.

He gave him his guitar.

arts, thank you and Greg for that story. I am thankful that many travel to see the world, not to experience luxury.

Magnificent!

Wow Arts what an amazing time Greg had with Saresh and his family. and giving Saresh his guitar just shows what a generous guy Greg is. An amazing journey, one that Greg will remember forever and probably shape his future in some degree.

Thanks for keeping us up to date.

Thanks Arts,

Echoing Nelsonian's thoughts .... and in a small Nepali village, a couple of little kids tucked your little kid into their hearts.

Sweet.

That was lovely! I have often found in my travels that the most interesting and moving interactions happen with people with whom I share no common spoken language.

Ah, what a great Scruffman report! That was worth waiting for. I would love for more young'uns to have the kind of experiences he is having, although it does sound as if Scruffy and his experiences happen partly because of who he is. What an education he's getting...

Kathie, Yes!

You reminded me of the lovely time I had with a very old lady in the hills of New Caledonia last year. She showed me how to prepare a local chicken dish; her wild garden & the herbs that went into the dish. I learnt about her tribe having country in the hills and on the seabord, that her son is a fisherman & has 2 little kids, a boy & a girl; that her husband was a tall, well endowed man, whom she misses greatly.

I speak none of her language, nor she of mine; and we met in that magical 'no man's land' of understanding. We walked, ate, cackled & brushed away tears.

I'm thinking about her tiny brown hands, tissue paper skinned, with the bruises & prominent veins that come with age; their fragile appearance belied by the dexterity & strength apparent as she dealt with the chicken & showed me things she'd done in her garden. And about her eyes - dark brown/green, with the cloud of cataracts unable to stifle the wicked twinkle or the clarity of her penetrating gaze.

I had a terrible day today, but coming home from work and reading the newest installment of Greg's adventures made my day so much better. With all the things that seem to be going wrong in the world, the idea of an American kid going out on an adventure and seeing how the world really is gives me hope. I hope some day I can have an adventure as awesome as this one!

Simply wonderful.

Pastoral life in Nepal and India....very Happy people.
A reminder to most of us that one does not always need money to be happy.

Scruffman is having the time of his life!!
How long is he planning to be in India & Nepal?

The Turn Toward Home

The Scruffman’s Nepal visa now close to expiring, he returned to Kathmandu for a couple nights in preparation for his flight out. Unfortunately, he found the city in turmoil. The Maoists had called a general strike, nothing was working, the buses and taxis were on strike. In a skirmish, a rock was thrown through the window of a restaurant at which he was eating. All in all, he was glad he wouldn’t be lingering. His e-mail the day before departure mentioned that he had no idea how he was going to get to the airport.

After a protracted e-mail exchange with Mom, he had decided to return to the Netherlands to decompress before heading home. This would be an involved trip: one ticket for Kathmandu to Delhi on Air India with no visa for India, arriving at 5:30pm, and another ticket for Delhi to Amsterdam on Air Emirates, departing 4:15am the next day, with a connection in Dubai. There were so many ways this journey could go wrong: he might not be able to get to the airport in Kathmandu, he might have trouble in Delhi because of having no visa for India, something could delay the departure from Delhi, he might scramble the connections in Delhi or Dubai, and of course there was the volcano in Iceland and the chance that could disrupt his landing in Amsterdam. I don’t mind saying, I was a little concerned about how this was going to go.

In the end, he walked and hitched rides to the Kathmandu airport, arriving “about five seconds” before they closed the gate, but he made his flight.

He found the Delhi airport “a million times nicer than I expected,” air-conditioned and beautiful. In fact, he felt somewhat uncomfortable because “I’ve been living in filth for the last three months.” He proceeded to get lost there, but was eventually befriended (doesn’t this always happen to him?) and taken off to a bar, where people proceeded to buy him beers (doesn’t this always happen to him?). He reported that the airport officials make everyone sit around and wait for their transfer, but then they find you, process you, and send you off to your flight. In his case, the authorities came and found him, plastered, in the bar. Although he spent the night in the airport, he didn’t sleep, nor did he the next day.

He said that the Emirates plane felt like a space ship – he said first class looked like a sci-fi movie. They had 100-200 movies to choose from – I imagine my “movie cynic” (as others call him) was nonetheless happy to have the entertainment. He made the change in Dubai without incident, although he described the Dubai airport as awful and very crowded.

The volcano remained quiet so he had no problem landing in Amsterdam. I had neglected to forward him his ticket to the US, so he had some trouble at passport control, but as usual was able to charm his way out of the airport.

So despite the many possibilities for complications, the Scruffman was able to get from Kathmandu to Amsterdam, where he is now staying.

Parting Gifts from India and Nepal

The Scruffman has been back in the Netherlands since early May.

Greg said the three months in India and Nepal were the hardest three months of his life. It has gotten to the point that, after all this traveling, he has been so many places and met so many people that he’s on overload. He was also sick a lot – he would lose his appetite for three or four days, then have a fever for a couple days, then get diarrhea, all the way up to the Himalayas. He thinks perhaps he has picked up parasites. The water was apparently pretty bad in Saresh’s village, and of course he couldn’t buy bottled water there – he was sick during much of his visit. He said he was very, very thin by the time he left Nepal, both because the food didn’t sustain him and even more because of being sick, thinner than I have seen him – and I have seen him very thin, during a period when he was out of work and decided to economize by not eating. His stomach is still giving him trouble and he’s not digesting food well, although he’s starting to gain some weight back again now that he’s getting enough to eat. Strangely enough, he felt great while he was trekking in the Himalayas, although of course he burned lots of calories so he didn’t gain any weight there either.

The debate right now is how to address this. I think he should see a doctor in the Netherlands, but of course money is a concern – he is down to about $300 to get home on. He isn’t going to be home for a while yet, and I suppose there’s the possibility of whatever it is really taking hold. I have maintained his medical policy while he was gone (mostly in case he came back with some dread disease), but it has a substantial deductible. On the other hand, it might be as simple as an antibiotic. I’m certainly open to any ideas anyone has about how/when to deal with this.

I hope he sees a doctor. Nothing is as important as your health.

Wonderful story -- I am so glad he was able to have such a genuine and beautiful cross cultural experience.

I would highly suggest that he see a Dr. and get the proper treatment. If that is not an option I do have to say that in many countries you can get medicine at a pharmacy w/ out a doctor. Once I had gotten very sick, so I walked into a pharmacy in South America and they gave me this:
(http://home.intekom.com/pharm/smith_kb/zentel.html) an anti-parisital medicine that worked fantastic -- within a day or 2 the problem was solved.

On the other hand my husband got parasites 8 years ago in Mexico that wreaked havoc on his system, he was slow in getting himself to the Dr. and in the end he ended up with ulcerative colitis which is a permanent condition.

chickenlittle, that link isn't working for me.

You could also buy it and send it to him:
http://www.buying-medication.com/php/order.php?Albendazol.

(oops try this)It is the same thing as Zentel.

http://www.freedom-pharmacy.com/Products2.asp?Brand=X%2Dworm+%28+Albenza%2C+Generic+Albendazole+%29&T=a

They ship to the Netherlands.

Wow, that sounds like some, as my son would say, serious sh*t.

I will advise him to start at a pharmacy and see what that brings about. They might be able to recommend a doctor for him, too.

I assume it would be less expensive for him to deal with this in the Netherlands than at home? (Remember, large deductible.)

I agree he needs to see a doctor. Without knowing what he has picked up (parasites? amoebas? worms? a viral or bacterial infection?) there is no way to know what medication would be effective. All medications have side effects and some of those for things like giardia have potentially serious side effects. Some of the medications require abstaining from alcohol for a period of time.

Arts:
Given his lack of appetite and periods of fever lasting several days -- and the fact that this started in India, the possibility of malaria (maybe in addition to parasites?) should be considered. I'm willing to bet Scruffman didn't take malaria pills? That's OK in some areas of India, but he really moved around a lot, was probably sleeping in places without good screening, etc.

ANYONE traveling in a malaria-endemic country (and for up to 6 mos after leaving) who has fever...without another obvious explanation for it...should have blood tests for malaria. I work in a travel clinic, so I can tell you that this should be done as soon as possible.

Hopefully, Scruffman has visited a doctor by now. Waaaaay back when I was in Eithiopia with the Peace Corps, we had so many vaccinations and shots administered to us plus we were given lots of preventative medications. There were numerous diseases we were exposed to that Americans do not have to deal with when at home. I wish him a speedy recovery so he can be "back on the road" again.

Wow, I go away for a long weekend, and come back to find the Scruffman saga has made a couple of giant leaps!

That is such a heart-warming story about Nepal (AND about New Caledonia). The very best kind of traveler...

On the medical issue - emergency treatment in Europe is often free - and even regular treatment can be unbelievably cheap compared to the U.S. It would be a good idea for him to at least ASK the local hospital how much they would charge for a diagnosis. A check of the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide for the Netherlands might turn up some useful info on medical practitioners - or you might post a question on the Europe board.

Yes, going to a doctor should cost little or nothing in the Netherlands. Extensive lab tests are another matter, but maybe that won't be necessary.

My son lived and worked in India for almost two years. Although he seemed to have no symptoms when he arrived back to the states last year, I made sure that he was tested for parasites ("Mom you are out of your mind,I am fine"). However, when the tests came back he had Gilardia(sp?)which are parasites that needed prescription meds and further testing. So insist-

OK, I'm going to swing this back to the Europe forum. Thank you all for continuing to follow the story. I really appreciate your enthusiastic support.

Here's the new thread:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/the-scruffman-chronicles-triumphant-return-to-europe.cfm

We are all so grateful for this wonderful mother/son saga...thank you.

Regarding your comment about me above...I'm not disappointed in him at all.

Glad to hear it, lcuy.

I would like to thank you and your son for the wonderful time I had travelling vicariously through India, the Himalayas and Nepal, places I never gave much thought to visiting. And now... back to the Netherlands (one of my favorite countries).

Robyn

artsnletters: hoping and praying that all is well with the Scruffman.
It's tough being a mom to a wonderful son like yours, when he's far away and may be ill. Let us hope his very good sense will carry him through.

He has now been back in the Netherlands for some time, but I am having a hard time getting him to go to the doctor. You can follow on the Europe forum if you're interested. I hope he's going to do something about this soon. He promised.

i'm thinking the dr. will be free in holland

hetismij, who lives in the Netherlands, thinks if he goes to a clinic (as opposed to a private doctor) that he will probably be seen for free, although he will probably have to pay for tests and medicine. I would imagine it will still be cheaper than getting care at home. He is just dragging his feet about it, especially since he is feeling better.

Thank you all for your concern and good wishes.

'The Scruffman has been back in the Netherlands since early May.'

According to my calendar it is now mid July.

If this self-involved child is too stupid to observe the simplest of health precautions and prevent himself from getting ill in India and too stupid to go to a doctor in Holland for ten - yes, ten weeks - I'm wondering just when our sympathy is meant to run out.

Mine certainly has.

I thought it had run out long ago, dogster.

Well, I've been trying to keep my lip zipped. Today, I failed.

There are many ways to read the Scruffman narrative. Those of us who have spent a long time in India interpret this lad's behavior in an entirely different way than his loving and long-suffering mother and the crowd of naive Europhiles following his ludicrous exploits with bated breath. I suppose now I'll be abused for pointing out the obvious.

I'm not the one who woke this thread up. I'm over on the Europe board to avoid boring and/or upsetting the several people here who don't care for the story and can't resist telling me so. But I will point out, no one is making you read it. So what exactly is your point? It's like the people who feel a need to announce that they visited Rome, hated it, and will never go again. Why should anyone else care whether they go again or not? If you don't want to, then don't. No need to announce it.

That's not intended as abuse, BTW. I just don't understand why you are reading if you think my son is a waste of space, and since you've long ago made clear what you think of him, what is the point of repeating it? Do you think I didn't understand you the first time?

Yes, it's all my fault.

As you fail to recognise that you are actually enabling his behavior, as you relentlessly romanticise his failings in this interminable self-help thread, as he fails to recognise that there are consequences to stupidity, that living off the kindness of others is simply parasitic, that there is nothing smart, adventuorous or remotely intelligent about his so-called adventure to the feral tourist ghettos of India I guess you two are trapped in a never-ending fantasy.

Yes, it's all my fault for reading it. I forgot that only gormless praise was required.

What began as a comedy is now just a bit tragic. Wise up, arts. Don't shoot the messenger. I'm not the guy you should be screeching at.

I'm not screeching at you, dogster. Maybe a little paranoia on your part? And I am screeching in another direction.

>>Yes, it's all my fault for reading it. I forgot that only gormless praise was required.<<

My 82-year-old mother says this kind of passive-aggressive, manipulative, um, stuff. It doesn't do you credit and it isn't attractive. You're a very intelligent man. That's not what I said, and you know it quite well.

I'm not sure what you think I should have done or should be doing that I'm not, other than not write about it. I guess I should not have wired him (his own) money and arranged to get him ATM cards? And exactly how was he supposed to get home without access to his money? Other than that, I'm not sure how I am "enabling" him. He's 22 and has control of his own money, so my influence and control is pretty limited. Other than that brief patch in India he has not otherwise required my assistance over the 10 months he's been gone.

Can't see the self-help angle. I have asked for advice on a couple issues, but that just makes me one of the gazillion people who come to these forums for just that purpose, and that's why the forums are here. Oh wait, not the sort of questions I am supposed to ask, apparently. I am not asking for consolation or support from anyone here. I am sharing the story because there are people who are interested in it (apparently even you since you keep coming back), and I have asked for information. That's it.

It's too bad for you that his experience of India didn't live up to your standards. I notice you're not whinging on about Nepal any more, apparently because he didn't spend any of his time there at the druggie hotel as you had predicted he would, so I guess at least that part doesn't require your contempt. But I think you fail to recognize that you are imposing your own standards of what is the appropriate way to visit to India, the appropriate kinds of experiences to have there, whatever. But he's not having your trip, which would also be informed by your many years of life and travel experience. He's having his trip. No doubt he has learned a whole darn lot, and he's not done learning it since he's playing with his health right now.

I'm not "shooting the messenger." (Really that's kind of arrogant, don't you think?) I just don't understand why the messenger keeps coming back and saying the same thing, when I've already heard the message.

Anyway, I would bow to your superior wisdom (actually I don't mean this particularly sarcastically, whatever it sounds like), if only I knew what the heck it is you want me to do to convince you that I think you are the authority.

I will add, however, in a spirit of helpfulness, that if you don't keep posting on it, this thread will sink back into the bowels of the forum, my son and I will vanish from your consciousness, and the story won't disturb, offend, or annoy you again.

I hesitate to post seeing I will keep the thread alive, but I agree with artsnletters comments. I for one am very grateful that Arts has posted Scruffman's adventures, it's exactly the sort of thing that should be posted on this forum. It's been a fascinating story and most parents would have done exactly what Arts has done to help their child if they requested it. I know my son would never have had the confidence to do a trip like this, my daughter maybe, but her big adventure is moving from New Zealand to live in New York City.

OK... After reading through the entire saga, all I can say is that I am envious of all that the Scruffman has accomplished on this little junket of his.

Being a friend of Artsnletters for some years now, as well as having an acquaintance with the Scruffman since his teens, this has been a read of some personal interest, as well as a very good insight of the person I have watched grow from his teens into a truly amazing adult. I wish that a lot more of our children would grow into equally engaging adults who are not afraid to take life by the horns and see things that deal more with humanity, rather than tourist bureaus!

Artsnletters is a truly amazing individual in her own rights and it is quite obvious that Scruffman is an apple that did not fall too far from the tree.

Still waiting, with bated breath, for the end of the saga and the Scruffman's return home. In the meantime, I'm hoping for all the best.

Folks, I'm trying to let this thread die. Please continue any discussions on the new thread:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/the-scruffman-chronicles-triumphant-return-to-europe.cfm

(Surprised to see you here, Joanie, and wowed and kinda embarrassed to read your praise. Thanks!)