Trip Ideas
Change Forum
SUNDAY 31ST MAY.
“THIS IS YOUR CAPTAIN SPEAKING”…We had boarded flight JQ29 from Melbourne to Bangkok about 25 minutes ago and the plane was yet to move from the boarding gate. “WE ARE SORRY FOR THE DELAY BUT WE ARE HAVING A PROBLEM WITH THE INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM AND IF WE CANT RECTIFY IT SHORTLY WE WILL BE LEAVING WITHOUT IT”….
Surely he cant be serious? To conserve funds, we had chosen to fly with a budget long haul carrier. No in-flight food and drink service, no blanket and pillow and now the possibility of a nine and a half hour flight with 2 very active kids without the distraction of an in-flight movie system. In hindsight, I should have been horrified but the reality was that I was less than 10 hours away from being back in Thailand and nothing could take that away from me.
In the end, the Gods were kind and the problem was rectified in time. The flight was reasonably painless apart from the noisy lads 5 rows back and the even noisier 1 year old 3 rows in front, it really should be compulsory to sedate young children ,and we arrived in Bangkok on time at around 9.30pm local time.
We breezed through customs and immigration and I steeled myself for the barrage of limousine and taxi touts that generally get the better of me. I was extremely proud of myself for arriving at the public taxi rank unscathed for the first time. I will note in future though that door 3 is the best exit to access the taxi’s from. We choose door 2 and had to evade an additional wave of pretty girls waving taxi signs who can sense your uncertainty in a heartbeat and before you know it you are agreeing to pay a fixed 800 baht fee for a transfer to your hotel that should cost no more than 400 on the meter.
For those of you that have not used the public taxi rank at Bangkok airport before, the system is that you so to the booth at the start of the taxi queue and tell the English speaking attendant where in the city you are going to. They will then hand you written directions to your hotel in Thai to give to your taxi driver. This service incurs a small surcharge of 50 baht which is paid to the taxi driver on top of the fare.
As it was late on a Sunday night, we decided, in consultation with our taxi driver, that it would not be necessary to take the toll road into Bangkok as the traffic would not be the nightmare that it generally was. It proved to be the right decision as we arrived at the Royal View Resort which is in the heart of Bangkok, a few hundred meters from the Victory Monument, within 30 minutes for the metered fare of 190 baht plus the 50 baht surcharge. The toll way adds about 100 baht to your fare and at any other time is advisable as the route that we took could take well over an hour during a busier time of day.
I chose the Royal View because it was a very well priced option at 1200 baht including an extra bed. As we were being collected by Tong, our guide, at 7am the next morning, we really just needed a bed and a shower and location was not all that important as the plan was to drop our bags and go to sleep.
I was very tired from the long flight but the lure of some Bangkok street food was too great to avoid so after checking in and being shown to our small but perfectly clean and adequate room, I set of in search of some nourishment. Kerry and the kids opted to stay put, but the boys put in an order for banana pancakes and off I went.
The area around the hotel was reasonably quiet with a small park across the lane and the soi that it is situated on is not a major thoroughfare. It was only a short walk of 100 meters or so before I found a small group of vendors set up in front of a 7/11. As none of these carts were offering the desired roti with steaming hot banana filling, topped with lashings of condensed milk and chocolate sauce, I kept walking. The large street around the corner contained much more activity even at this late hour with a few local restaurants and bars, and the large “King Power Duty Free” shopping complex dominating the streetscape. This complex was closed for the night and I continued on to find the Victory Monument Sky Train station. The scene underneath the raised platform of this station is where I found the pulsing heartbeat of Bangkok, the local market. There were very few “farang” wandering around this area but I felt at home with the multitude of street carts and stalls selling various exotic delicacies and clothing to a clientele of Bangkokians.
Unfortunately, the much desired banana pancake proved to be elusive, but I found some fantastic looking bbq chicken at 5 baht a stick that I knew the kids would enjoy so I bought all that this vendor had left on her cart.
Most of the stallholders were starting to pack up and many of them were settling in for the social part of the evening, large bottle of Singha or Chang beer in hand. I decided to join them and dropped in to the nearby 7/11 and grabbed a ’long-neck’ of Chang for 38 baht, cheaper than buying water at the convenience stores at home.
I returned to the room and the kids and myself devoured the bag full of chicken, and the Chang barely touched the sides. My 7 year old, Caleb was already in his pyjama’s but he still offered to accompany me for a second trip to buy another round.
I finally settled in for some sleep just after midnight with a warm belly and a slight feeling of euphoria fuelled by the Chang and the two trips into the Bangkok night.
MONDAY 1ST JUNE.
Breakfast at the Royal View is included in the room rate but service only begins at 7, so all that was available when I got down there at 6.45 was coffee and juice. This was all I really wanted as I knew that the trip to the floating market would include a lot of wonderful Thai food, so I settled down with a steaming hot cup and waited for Tong. About 5 minutes later I saw a beautiful lady of approx 30, with a smile so wide that it instantly made my spirits soar, approach me.
“MISTER SHANE ?”..She enquired of me. Why did I feel like giving her a hug? I have heard so many great things about Tong, but nothing could have prepared me for the instant connection that I felt with this energetic, warm hearted women. I had high expectations of this day and this generally leads to various degrees of disappointment, but in that instant, I knew that this day would be special.
We spent the next hour, oblivious to the Bangkok traffic, taking in the amazing scenes and listening to Tong talk about religion and politics and history and salt farms and fish sauce factories. It didn’t really matter what she was talking about, it was the fact that it was coming from her that made it so interesting.
Our first stop was the Train Track Market. This place is really much more fascinating than I ever imagined, especially with Tong explaining about all the array of fruits, vegetables, spices and various kinds of protein, many still moving ,that were for sale on either side, and in some cases, actually on an active passenger rail line. Apparently, due to the very cheap rent in this section of the market, many of the vendors choose to pack and unpack their produce up to 8 times a day to let the train go past. Tong times the visit to perfection so as we get to the end of the market, we hear a train coming and watch the frantic activity as a market rapidly turns back into a train track to allow a very large steam train to pass. This is an absolutely astounding sight and as the train moves away at high speed the vendors instantly begin to reconstruct their stalls and continue on with the days trade.
The pace of the train is now matched by Tong as she grabs both the boys by the hand and whisks them away and we are left in her wake. She is determined to get us to our next destination before the bus loads of tourists descend, so to maximize our enjoyment. Tong has purchased some little pancakes filled with coconut and spring onion for us and popcorn for the kids and we devour these as we drive to the Floating Market which is only about 10 minutes away.
Many people visit the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market but I feel that very few would get the full experience that you get when you travel with Tong. She has already called many of the food vendors to arrange where to meet and collect her pre-orders of the freshest and best produce. She chooses a more authentic boat which is paddled manually rather than the noisy diesel powered long tail boats that many of the other tourists take. We feast on Noodle soup and BBQ chicken and coconut pancakes whilst sipping ice coffee in a plastic bag. Kerry and the boys make a few souvenir purchases with Tong assisting with the negotiations. I sit back, totally absorbed by the sights and the smells.
We leave the market area and float past many local residences, some reasonably luxurious, to take in the local lifestyle around this now highly tourist orientated market. We pull up at another food vendor, next to a boat filled with early teen Thai school girls. The exchanges between the girls and Joel and Caleb, translated both ways by Tong ,are priceless. We will have to watch the boys more closely on the next few trips.
After the market, we briefly stop in at a large handi-craft factory where many skilled wood carvers are at work producing masterpieces. This is a nice little stopover and there is certainly no pressure to buy anything but I will one day return and fill a shipping container with some of the magnificent hand crafted furniture.
The next stop will be the Tiger Temple and we settle in for an hour plus drive with Tong putting on a movie for the boys. As we approach, Tong stops the movie to give us some history of the Temple as well as lay down some safety guidelines for the boys. She answers all of our questions and openly discusses some of my concerns about the “conservation vs. commercialism” approach of the temple. She shares with me her personal opinion, that out of respect to her I will not commit to print, but she encourages me to draw my own conclusions.
The first thing that strikes me about the Tiger Temple is the huge numbers of these magnificent animals that they have on display. Some are chained, some walk with monks, all look to be of perfect health and I cannot see any outward evidence of mistreatment. The staff and a small army of foreign volunteers all seem to have the best interest of the animals and the visitors at heart.
We choose to treat the kids with an additional experience and pay an extra 2000 baht on top of the 500 per person entry fee that will allow them 45 minute feeding and play time with 4 eight week old cubs. This is undoubtedly the highlight of our visit as they share this time with only one other couple, the main keeper and a few of the volunteers that all seem to be in awe of these youngsters as much as our boys are. They get to play with all of the cubs and they each bottle feed one of them. The only restriction is that they are not allowed to pick them up.
There are a multitude of up-close photo opportunities and Tong is always getting us to the best position and to the front of the line. She uses her friendship with many of the staff there to our advantage. She has brought along bags of popcorn for the staff and milk tablets that we hand feed to some of the juvenile tigers.
There are many other animals that roam free in the Temple, like deer and water buffalo and wild boar. They are currently making many improvements to the centre and you can certainly see where some of your money is going.
Is it commercial? Certainly. Is it good for the Tigers? Probably not, but with the wild tiger in Thailand on the verge of being hunted to extinction, I feel that it does have the capacity to do good. Whether it uses it’s position for the good of the species or not will remain to be seen, but I certainly wouldn’t discourage or encourage people to visit. Make up your own mind. Would I return? Probably not, but the kids really enjoyed it and they leaned more about the tigers plight than they would have if they had not gone.
It was going to be difficult to top this experience, but our next stop won first prize for the highlight of the day. We had been on many Elephant rides in our previous visits to Thailand but this promised to be a little different, and it certainly lived up to its promise. The price seemed a little steep at first at 500baht for each of us, but I would pay at least four times this price to have this opportunity again.
We arrived at the Elephant camp and changed into our swim wear as the majority of our time with these beasts would be spent in the river. Tong rounded up the Mahout’s and they took us to meet our elephants. I cannot remember their names in Thai but they translated to “Full Moon” and “Beautiful Women”.
The Mahout’s presented us with 2 large bags of bananas that we got to hand feed to these immense creatures. I had fed elephants before but on this occasion we were encouraged to get so close and personal with our animals that I could feel their tongues caressing my palm as thet took the fruit from my hand.
As I was feeding Full Moon, I noticed Beautiful Women’s trunk reach over my shoulder and lift the other bunch of banana’s, plastic bag and all, from the step behind me. Apparently, one banana at a time is not the way an elephant prefers to eat. We wrestled with her to try and retrive the bag, but to no avail. The Mahout did not share our concern, and we found out why when Beautiful Women spat out the bag without a trace of the several dozen bananas that it once contained.
We then moved to a platform and thought that we would wait there whilst our two girls had basket’s placed on their backs for us to ride in. What happened next surprised me a little as these very large animals were walked up to the platform straight away. It would seem that we were about to ride down to the river bareback. I could see the horror in Kerry’s face. I was not all that worried about myself but I was a little uneasy about the kids being able to hold on. I would have been even more concerned if I had been able to see how steep the descent down to the water actually was.
In the ten minutes or so that it took to get down to the river, I held on to our elephant with my thighs whilst I held on to Joel with both hands, not daring to turn around to find out how Kerry and Caleb were doing. It was a great relief to make it down to the river and I finally had a chance to gaze around and see how surreal the surroudings were. We were sitting on elephants, who were two thirds submerged in the waters of one of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretches of the River Kwai that one could possibly imagine.
Next the Mahout took out two large brushes and handed one to each of myself and Joel. He then proceeded to empty the contents of a bottle onto the back of Full Moon as he sang out “SHAMPOO….SHAMPOO…” So we all scrubbed away at our elephants whilst the Mahout inspected our efforts. Full Moon assisted the process by constantly spraying her back, and us, with many gallons of water freshly siphoned from the river.
After we got our girls clean, from head to tail, the Mahouts showed us how to climb up onto an elephant by using their trunks as a elevating platform. This of course presented an amazing photo opportunity and luckily Tong was busily snapping away with my camera from the bank. The next trick was to try and sit on the Elephants neck, holding it’s ears, whilst they swayed and rolled their heads trying to dislodge us. A Packyderm rodeo of soughts. This was the highlight for the kids who tried in vain, on a multitude of occasions, to stay on their beast, but on every one of these attempts they ended up being flung into the water. We were all convinced that both Full Moon and Beautiful Women enjoyed this game as much as what we did.
After at least an hour in the river, we climbed back onto our animals and rode back to the Elephant camp, much more confident this time, and bid a sad farewell to our extremely large friends. While we got changed, Caleb showed his joy by thanking me to bringing him to “paradise” and asked me why we didn’t live in Thailand.
Tong had anticipated our desire to end out day with a good feed and had ordered ahead to one of her favorite local restaraunts that was close to the Elephant camp. We all shared a feast of Fried Rice, Tom Kha Gai and Crumbed Shrimp washed down with an iced cold Chang. A wonderful way to end a memorable day.
We parted ways with Tong in Kachanaburi at the V N Guesthouse, our humble abode for the next two nights. It was an emotional farewell to our new friend, but we have no doubt that we will spend some time with her again.
After dropping off our bags, we decided that we should end the day with a Foot Massage and after a recommendation from the staff at the guesthouse, we walked to “Friend Massage” and spent the next hour in bliss for the outrageous charge of 150 baht each. The girls think it is very funny that a 7 and 10 year old are getting a foot massage, but it has the effect of putting them to sleep whilst we lay back and enjoy ours.
Book Your Next Trip
Check hotel rates and airfares around the world.
Find a great deal?
Tell us about it.
Hotels
Flights
Packages
Cars
Cruises
Each website you select will open a new window in your browser.
TALES OF THAILAND...A LIVE (ALMOST) TRIP REPORT FROM THE LAND OF SMILES
70 Replies | Jump to last reply
|70 Replies |Back to top
|Sign in to comment.
Recent Activity
View all Asia activity »
- 1 Need help with final plans to Japan
- 2 Add extra day before tour for jet lag?
- 3
Burma at Last!
- 4
Dogster: Fate and Tamil Nadu
- 5
Dreaming's Trip Report: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, HCMC & Narita
- 6
Thailand Trip Report-the Real Story
- 7 Hong Kong Hotel , Xmas day 24 hours
- 8 Travelling to Bhutan during off season
- 9 China Connection Tours - Good / Bad??
- 10
Extended Family's JBR - But we aren't back yet
- 11 Indonesia - itinerary help needed
- 12
RHK's & GPANDA'S in Thailand
- 13 Indochina trip: DIY or tours
- 14
My trip report to Vietnam/Cambodia
- 15 Easter closings in Bangkok?
- 16 Burma-Please help
- 17 Volunteer work around Chiang Mai
- 18 Tour Company to India to Recommend?
- 19 Taxis from airports to hotels
- 20 Transfer from Nex to Hikari at Tokyo Station
- 21 Vietnam/Cambodia terrific tour company
- 22 Japan to view chrysanthemums
- 23 Hotel recommendation near Delhi aiport
- 24
China Trip Report - Beijing, Xi'an, Guilin, Yangshuo, Suzhou, & Shanghai
- 25
2 great weeks in Hanoi and Siem Reap
Wonderful start! I've been looking forward to your report of your birthday trip to Thailand. I always enjoy reading the reports of other Thailand addicts. You'd better watch out - it sounds like you have at least one budding addict in Caleb!
great start....i told you that she is fantastic....
Lovely Shanek - you are obviously enjoying the trip. I'm off too in a couple of weeks - can't wait and you are giving me a little taste to keep me going - thanks.
congrats, shane. glad you finally got to meet tong--and that you now understand what all the fuss is about. also appreciate the even hand you handled your report on the tiger temple with. haven't been there myself yet, but feel like i need to at some point on the next trip, just so I can decide for myself...without any preconceived political agenda.
wonderful report so far...you whisked me right back to the back seat of tong's sedan, flying through the salt marshes outside of Bangkok and tasting all the lovely roadside goodies she would stop to pick up for us along the way.
I miss that wonderful woman like mad--and it sounds like you can relate to why now that you've experienced a tour with her.
Can't wait to hear more about your trip!
Hi shane.
Glad you had Tong for the day trip,now you understand why everybody speaks so highly of her,what a bundle of energy with a big smile.
TUESDAY 2ND JUNE.
I awoke from a solid sleep at around 5.30 am to the sound of Thai music blaring through my room. Our Guesthouse was on the banks of the River Kwai and the only unfortunate thing about it’s otherwise idyllic location was that on the opposite bank of the river was a park that hosted the daily Thai version of “Boot Camp”, a daily fitness regime that was accompanied by a sound system that once belonged to ACDC.
I found myself inspired by the music and decided to start my day with a run to the famous bridge, about 3 km away. I always find it a great way to immerse myself in the local morning rituals of the area. You learn a lot by observing how the residents start their day and it is something that very few tourists see. School children eating breakfast on plastic tables on the side of the street , local restaurant owners buying fresh produce from the cart vendors and fisherman selling their overnight catch, is really a sight to behold.
After breakfast at our Guesthouse we decide to take the kids for a haircut and then go for a walk into town. We had originally planned to get to Erawan Falls today, but I had exhausted the kids and Kerry yesterday so we decided to see how the morning went before planning any activities for the afternoon.
We walked over the bridge and made a few small purchases from the stalls nearby. Things seemed to be very quiet and the vendors seemed very desperate for our business. For a very tourist orientated place, prices seemed to be incredibly low. Starting prices on copy polo shirts were 150 baht and Oakley sunglasses and caps started at 100. Maybe we were getting special “morning price”. I believe that the first sale of the day generally brings them luck. Lucky for us also.
I was still stuffed from the special VN Guesthouse breakfast, 3 eggs, bacon, toast, coffee and juice for 90 baht, so we bypassed all of the food vendors but couldn’t resist a freshly squeezed lemon “shake” for 25 baht.
Next to the stall that we sat at to drink our juice was a booth promoting the Open Range Zoo and it was sad to see that they had a Tiger Cub, no older than the ones that the kids had played with yesterday, chained up on public display right next to the noisy roadside strip. This was far more exploitive than anything we saw at the Temple. These are the kind of practices that we should be making noise about. If we feel the need to champion a cause, stamping out the displaying of animals on a public street would be far more worthy. I would certainly strongly suggest that you refuse to have your photo taken with animals held in these conditions. I may be accused of double standards but I believe the cicumstances are completely different.
The weather was starting to look pretty gloomy so we decided to “lash-out” and get another massage. We found a place that looked like it had enough staff to accomodate the four of us and it proved to be an excellent choice. Kerry and I got a really deep and strong Thai massage whilst the kids each got a gental stretching session. At 150 baht an hour it is a cheap way to keep them amused while we enjoy some down time.
The heavens opened up half way through our hour of bliss and the sound of heavy rain added to the therapy. As we had no umbrella’s with us, we were hoping it would stop soon but we had nothing to worry about as one of the girls offered to drive us the 2km’s back to the guesthouse. Great service for a $5 an hour spa.
The rain eventually stopped but it still looked threatening so we decided to continue with the lazy theme of the day and have a long long lunch at VN. The restaurant there has a fantastic covered balcony with million dollar views of the river and the seating closest to the edge comprised of low tables and very comfortable cushions on the floor. A Pad Thai, Pork with Chilli and Basil, Rice, French Fries and a Cheeseburger, washed down with 3 large bottles of Chang and soft drinks for the kids came to just over 500 baht. The beer alone would cost more than that at a grimy café at home.
We played cards and read and had a really great couple of hours chatting amongst ourselves and with the staff.
At one stage of the afternoon I spotted a huge lizard, possibly 6 feet long, swimming in the river. I was a little unnerved to see it climb onto the little front balcony of our room on the raft connected to the guesthouse that we were staying in. It is most likely a totally timid and harmless creature but it’s pre-historic looks made it look like a threat and it was sitting were I was dangling my feet that morning while reading.
That night we made our way to the Night Market and we were again astounded at how cheap everything was there. We saw no more than a handful of tourists and thousands of locals and as most items were clearly marked at a fixed price the whole experience was really pleasant. One stall had hundreds of items from copy watches to YSL designer moble phone cases all priced at 100 baht.
The food there ranged from Fried Frogs to Sushi with very few dishes priced over 30 baht. The kids loved walking around sipping soft drink out of plastic bags and we really had a great time. I could have stayed there and “people-watched” all night but we were still getting used to the shift in time zone so by 9pm we were ready for bed.
Thank's guys for all your kind words. I am currently sitting at the Cabbages and Condoms restaraunt watching the rain bucket down whilst working on the next installment. I will try and post them as quickly as I can.
Just had a fabulous meal here for a very reasonable price. I know the Bangkok version gets mixed reviews but the quality of the food here is great. My duck in red curry for 150 baht was as good as it gets. I did ask that they make it spicy, so that may be the key.
Bob, I forgot to mention that Tong was carrying the Fodors GTG bag that you gave her. She went through each of the names on the side of the bag and gave me a little insight into each person she knew....very interesting.
She also mentioned that your email to her insisted that she guided us personally. Once again, I really appreciate your efforts.
Thanks for the wonderfully detailed report. I'm transported back to Thailand by your prose. I miss Bangkok. It's always great to hear about another Tong convert. She truly is a gifted guide that enhances a visit. The report is very timely and no penalty applies. There may be a small sanction for publicly thanking Bob.
WEDNESDAY 3RD JUNE .
One of the few negatives about staying on a raft is that when a large speedboat boat decides to go past at 3am, you awake to your bedroom rolling up and down like you are caught in a Tokyo earthquake. It was a good thing that I was reasonably restrained with my Chang consumption as I would hate to wake this way with the after effects of the demon drink. I managed to get back to sleep just in time for the fitness session to commence with it’s Thai-pop muzak at the volume levels just slightly less than a Metalica concert.
I make the decision not to go for a run this morning in protest to the exploitation of my eardrums by the Thai fitness industry. I use the time instead to work on my journal.
Today is moving day and after a great breakfast of Pineapple pancakes the size of an SUV’s hubcap and steaming hot coffee, we board the mini-bus that the guesthouse has chartered for us at approx 9.30am. The trip to Pattaya is quicker than expected at around 4 1/4 hours but it takes an additional 30 minutes for the driver to find the Birds and Bees Resort, even though I had provided him with directions in Thai that I had got the resort to email me.
The Birds and Bees is run by the charitable organization that owns the famous “Cabbage’s and Condoms” eatery in Bangkok and it’s restaurant on this property also goes by the C and C name. I don’t think I am overstating at all to say that all four of us were completely blown away by this place, even allowing for the contrast with the modest places we had stayed for the past 3 nights. It is set an an absolute tropical garden oasis with amazing sea views from the infinity pool. It also has a separate pool for kids in a “rainforest” themed area.
We had splurged a little and gone for a 2 bedroom deluxe room at the discounted rate of 4200 baht per night inclusive of breakfast and the size and the quality of the room greatly exceeded our expectations. The size of bathroom/toilet area was bigger than our whole room in Bangkok, you could almost have a party in the shower if you were so inclined. It is all done in natural stone and polished timbers, everything works, flushes and open’s just as it should. If I had to be picky, then I could say that the 51cm Sony tube TV may be a little small for the expanse of the room, but both the picture and selection of satellite channels is more than adequate for our needs.
After about an hour of walking around and getting lost in the resorts garden, we decide to go for a short stroll to explore the perimeter. This impromptu sortie extends to a 100 baht taxi ride into “Walking Street” to see what all the fuss is about, followed by a bit of shopping and dinner.
Pattaya Beach area is what it is, a virtual melting pot of sexual adventure, a “Disneyland” for middle aged single men. It is certainly more “in your face” than we expected for daylight hours, but if you stay on beach road and avoid a few of the soi’s, it is not too confronting. We actually really enjoyed a few rounds of beers with some excellent cheap Thai food at the “Pattaya Beer Garden” which is on the end of a pier near the entrance to walking street. They charged only 50 baht for a small, very cold, bottle of Chang, between 80-120 for a range of curries and stir-fries and we spent a few hours there watching the sun go down over Pattaya Bay with the restaurant staff keeping the kids amused.
The clientelle at the Beer Garden were mostly single men with or without a respectably clad escort, but there was an element of discreteness to theie demeanour that allowed us to feel comfortable in the surroundings.
After our wonderful dinner, we walked down beach road and made a few more purchases at the street market stalls. We were about to get in a taxi when I got the familiar whiff of the combination of cooked banana, egg and roti bread which had an hypnotic effect on me akin to a snake charmers flute. As fortune had it, we were meters away from a banana pancake vendor and we ordered 3 to go with condensed milk and sugar for our ride home. Whilst these cooked, I watched 2 of the local working girls order a bag of assorted fried bugs from the adjacent cart. I have made a pact with the boys that we will try some of these local delacacies on this trip but for tonight we stayed with our old favorite.
Really enjoying your report.
first of all, how do you know that those were 'working "girls"'?
love the report...
i'm glad you were able to get tong for the extra day...
Shane
Great to see your report as I log onto fodors this morning. It sounds like you are your family are having a wonderful time in Thailand! Do keep up with your interesting prose. I'm enjoying all of it.
Carol
Great report! I'm enjoying reading about your activities with your children. We also went to the train market and floating market with Tong. Our kids (9 and 11) also loved getting foot massages in Thailand and Cambodia last year. It was their favorite thing to do in the evenings.
Glad to see you like Cabbages and Condoms....just think you're treading inn my footsteps - that'd send a shudder down some backs.
How much longer are you in Pattaya now?
BTW - My reply to your Tiger Temple visit is on the way! ...in the interest of peace and harmony, I'll put the main body on your Lonely planet thread.
several very good restaurants in pattaya....the new mall behind the marriott and up the road just a bit has some very good eateries....the italian place that looks just like a pizza joint on the right as you enter is excellent and reasonable...
just in back of the marriott and across the street is casa pascal ...its pricey but delicious
brunos is fantastic on the way to jontiem beach and just across the street from it is a family restaurant called pan pan which is also excellent....
shane...did you meet bam bam......she is tong's 2nd child...
Shane,
A belated welcome back to Thailand and wishing you a very Happy Birthday.
Shanek - if you want ot know some out of the way eateries let me know - or PM me on TT.
Brunos is really only average - overpriced and under-tastey - how much ratatouille can you eat?...and not a Thai food place!
Thanks for all of your wishes. Having a fantastic time even though the weather has been a little gloomy.
Bob, Bam Bam has been taken off display while his enclosure is being redeveloped. I did get to see Tong's favorite Water Buffalo and Goat however. I can tell the Working "Girls" by the absence of an Adams apple.
Anyway,on with my tale,
THURSDAY 4TH JUNE.
It is a ritual of mine, whenever I arrive in a new destination, to go for a long early morning run. I am not sure if I am running to, or running away from something, but it gives me great clarity and a sense that I now belong in my new “home” no matter how short my stay is.
It is also an ideal way to get the lay of the land and set my bearings. You can cover a lot more ground than walking and you can absorb your surroundings with greater detail than if traveling by motorized conveyance.
I set of at 6.30am and climb the hill leading towards the main road into Pattaya beach. On my left is a small gathering of unappealing little restaraunts and bars and on my right is the Asia Pattaya Hotel gardens which is dominated by an immaculately groomed par 3 golf course. The gradiant is quite subtle, but the humidity and heat, even at this early hour makes the climb a challenge and I am almost relieved to find myself on a long downhill stetch after turning left into the main road. The view here of the city skyline is fabulous and I try to slow my speed on this very steep decent so to take in my surroundings.
I come to a series of hairpin bends and there is an extremely attractive park on my right hand side that has been created in many layers due to its position on the side of Pattaya hill. There are many Thai’s exercising and playing in this oasis and I see a gathering of young men competing in a sport that seems to be a hybrid of volleyball and “hacky-sack”. Their skills are sublime and I get the urge to stop and observe this contest, but I am on a mission and I pick up my pace as the road begins to level off.
I run under an overpass and the scenes around me alter dramatically. I am now on a busy urban thoroughfare and I search for a way through this maze of well-worn buildings so that I can continue my run with sea breeze, rather than with the fumes of poorly tuned motor vehicles in my lungs.
I find a left hand turn that looks like it would take me in the desired direction, however it ends up in a dead end and I double back. The next turn delivers me to Beach Road but I need to run the gauntlet of a series of beer bars and go-go venues, some still in full flight with many groups of revellers oblivious to the time of day and my presence even though I must look completely out of place.
The scene on Beach road is far less confronting and the sea-front itself is actually attractive in it’s own way. It seems less polluted than I imagined, though I was preparing myself for the worst and the sand looks clean and inviting. It is far from tropical paradise but it is not the eyesore that I expected, however I would still be hesitant to go for a swim.
I continue on to North Pattaya, passing some impessive looking shopping arcades, most notably a very new looking “Central” complex that has at least 6 levels of retail therapy within it’s towering façade.
It is now time to turn around and continue my quest of discovery to the south. Only half an hour or so has passed since I began my journey but I am already starting to get a feel for the area.
I run under the archway that announces the entry to “Walking Street” with its huge video screen showing English football. I pass under neon signs of Elvis and various giant crustaceans, trying hard not to make eye contact with the “entertainers” leaving their places of employment after an unsuccessful shift.
I hear the sound of girls whistling accompanied with the cries of “Welcome…Welcome” and I fear this attention is being directed at me. I turn to face a neon charactiture of Satan above the aptly name “Lucifers” bar and see many girls still at work but the greeting seems not to be coming from there. My gaze wanders to the construction site of a new bar complex next door and it is here that I see a dozen or so ladies of a much more laborious but arguably more honorable profession, waving and smiling in my direction. It is a game to them and if my momentary particpation helps break up the monotony of carrying bricks and lifting buckets, then I am only happy to play along. I keep running but I return their greetings with an exaggerated “wai” and a loud “Sawadee Krub”. Their widening smiles and giggles are infinitely more beautiful, even dressed in dirty rags and hardhats, than the hot pants clad dancers of Lucifer’s. The giggles turn to a roar of laughter as I almost collide with a cart selling dried squid and fish balls.
After 300 meters or so, the landscape changes again as I enter the “Bali Hai Pier” area and run past the roadside fish market to the left and the marina full of impressive looking craft of all shapes and sizes to the right. I commence my climb back to the resort and take note of a very impressive looking Go-Kart track and commit it’s position to memory as I know the kids would love to visit it.
The road steepens significantly as I near the top and I can feel my lungs fighting for breath. I push myself even harder as the extra effort here will result in a guilt free breakfast. Finally I see the sign for the Birds and Bees and the right turn reveals a final 500m downhill stretch. My speed increases as I strive to get back to the resort, conscious of the attention of the shopkeepers and passing commuters. I turn into the driveway and am once again struck with the serene jungle enviroment of this beautiful complex.
The rest of the day is mostly about food and relaxation. The weather is stormy and the precipation at times heavy but it doesn’t stop us from having an enjoyable day. We swim in the pool under a blanket of rain and watch the wild surf beating against the shore from the safety of the restaurant’s well covered decking. We escape the complex only briefly for a massage and for supplies from the “Family-Mart” . The only annoyance is a lengthy power outage but just as it becomes dark, the problem is rectified and we watch a movie on HBO and fall asleep by 10.
I also usually go for a run in the early morning to get the lay of the land. It's a great way to get a sense of location without the distraction of commerce. Your run sounds like fun. Keep writing.
Running while wearing a Speedo in Pattaya will get you the Laid of the land.
Only if they can catch me. I'm sure Shanek is much more sedate than I. The key is that early morning runs provide a view of places that is unavailable any other time of day. You get to see places come to life. It's fun.
Is the Central complex open now? We saw it under construction, and nearly done, when we were in Pattaya for the New Years Eve festivities.
I'm not a runner, but it sounds like a good way to have a look around.
Carol
Yes Carol, the complex is fully operational. I didn't realise that it was "that" new. It has a great cinema on level 6 with a first class option, heaps of food courts and some nice restaraunts. The shopping there is not cheap as a general rule but we managed to find a few stores having sales and we picked up some bargains.
shane...tong has sent me a pic of you and the family...handsome bunch for ossies....don't even look like criminals...
have fun in pattaya area and try out pan pan, i think the kids would love it...
I have also seen the infamous mug shot of Shane and his family with Tong. They appear to be having a good time, but one can never be too careful. Let us know how you like Pattaya.
Oh My God. I was hoping to remain mysterious but my cover has now been blown. It is a new age Australia these days, only 67% of us arrived in leg shackles and chains. Some of us even buy our own bread.
Pattaya was fun, though we did have an unsavory incident that I will go into with some depth in my next installment.
I am sitting in Samui now and my love affair with this place continues. You must give Cho eng Mon Beach a try if you go there. It is like I have travelled back in a time capsule to Samui in the 80's. By the way, that is a good thing.
Now that your cover is blown, you can take a desk job. The years of field work are over. Push some paper and eat long lunches.
Bob would have to travel forward in a time capsule to get to the 80's.
I'm glad you are enjoying Samui.
Sorry to hear about an unsavory incident in Pattaya. Do tell us about it.
kathie loves all that dirt...
FRIDAY 5TH JUNE.
Who the heck is Tony? Those of you that have ventured to the “city of sin by the sea” will know who I mean. His smiling face looks down apon you from billboards, and from the back of baht buses everywhere you go in Pattaya. His eyes seem to follow you and his smile reveals that he is a man that you can trust your soul to. Tony has your best interests at heart, no matter what those interests may be. In Pattaya it means a lot to know that Tony is in your corner.
Tony is more than just Pattaya’s foremost entreprenuers. He is not just the owner of the finest fitness centers, bowling alleys and shopping arcades along the coast. His Food Courts are world class and the fact that you can bring your own whiskey at no charge only proves that he wants you to feel at home. Tony’s Beer Garden is the only place you should go to drink beer, in a garden. If there is a service that needs to be provided or a job that is worth doing, you can rest assured that Tony will be there to put his name, and his face to it. In Tony we trust.
After breakfast, as the sun is out, we decide to take the kids to the Pattaya Water Park. The taxi driver lets me beat his price down to 100 baht far too easily. We get in, and 45 seconds later he stops at the park. I really should have turned right instead of left on this mornings run.
The park is extremely quiet and is looking very tired and dated, but the waterslides prove to be a big hit with the kids. They charge 100 baht per person and that gives you unlimited access to 6 slides of varying levels of excitement. I decide on the highest and longest for my first attempt, and it is almost my last as I am thrust 5 feet into the air on the first jump and end up with my board shorts firmly wedged into my rear-end upon my less than graceful entry into the water. I select the more sedate slides for the rest of my morning thrills.
There is a rollercoaster, mono-rail and various other amusements around the park, but the most well patronized attraction appeared to be Pattaya tower. This unattractive structure of great height has a lift that climbs to the top for a birds eye view and various options of coming down. For the adventurous, there is a zip-line to expediate your descent and from our comfortable position on the ground near the water slides, we could hear the screams.
We spent about 3 hours at the waterpark and then catch a taxi into the arcade connected to the Marriott to take the kids to “Ripley’s”. There are 4 different attractions there including an “endless” maze, a Horror Hall and a “4D” Theatre. We choose to just go through the Ripley’s Museum which costs about 450 baht for adults and 350 for kids. If you want to do all 4 you can buy a combined ticket for 880/780, but you need to use it all in the one day and we didn’t want to “Ripley” ourselves out. The museum is only mildly amusing but there is enough buttons to press and handles to turn to keep the kids interested for just over an hour. Kerry decided to spend this time wandering around exploring and when we meet up, the kids are full of Ripley facts and figures to share with her. The strange thing here is that there was no sign of Tony anywhere around this attraction, perhaps he is a silent partner.
We continue down Beach road for some shopping. The Central Festival shopping centre is even more impressive on the inside as it is on the out and the boys loved riding on the glass walled lift the runs along the exterior of the complex and provides great views.
It is getting close to dinner time and we charter a baht bus to take us to Jomtien. The beach strip here is very long and the activity levels are much more sedate than Pattaya. It is a lovely area that has a great friendly feel to it. There are heaps of cute little bars and most restaraunts have stunning ocean views.
I had set out to find “Preecha” seafood restaurant but our driver didn’t know where this was and she dropped us of at the very end of beach road before it turns left and runs inland for a short section. On the corner here was an eatery that was filled with Thai people so we thought we would give it a go. It was a pleasant environment and the prawns and rock lobster were nice but the BBQ fish was a dissapointment. I had asked for snapper and was taken to a tank that looked like it may have contained fish of this species but what they presented to the table was extremely salty with an almost unpleasant taste and odor. The meal for the 4 of us including a huge rice with shrimp, which was lovely, a few large bottles of Singha and lemon shakes for the kids came to a modest 1350 baht.
We started walking along the beach road to assist with the digestion of our seafood feast and really felt comfortable in the surroundings. One thing that was a little different was the signs at most of the bars restaurants and guesthouses advertising a 10baht charge for the use of their toilet facilities. We stopped for a drink at one stage and we even got charged the toilet tax on top of the 4 drinks that we ordered, luckily Kerry was the only one who went.
We rounded the night off with a foot massage for all of us and an icecream and then found a baht bus to take us back. On the front of the truck was a huge sign with a familiar face on it advertising a lifetime membership at Tony’s Fitness Centre for only 25000 baht. We knew we were in for a safe trip home.
SATURDAY 6TH JUNE.
Something very unfortunate happened today that will change our outlook on Thailand forever. This may sound dramatic when you hear about this incident but the totally relaxed state that up until now I have always found myself in, will always be tainted with a slight incertainty. My sense of peace and trust will always have an edge of cynicism. What makes it even worse is that today, even Tony wasn’t there for us. It wont stop us from returning to Thailand and eventually, the mental scars will heal, but we will never forget the sinking feeling when it happened.
As I am writing this jounal in a perfect chronological order, I will be true to this and you will have to read on to find out what happened. But don’t worry, when it does happen you are sure to know.
What happened?
ok, leave us hanging....who cares, we are only your loyal followers...what happens if you do not live long enough to report it to us??
This is like the old serialized magazine stories. You can just hear the organ music in the background.
I apologise for my bad manners. I had not intended to keep you waiting so long for this next installment but time got away from me.
My previous post was not supposed to included that little 2 paragraph "teaser" on the bottom. I am cutting and pasting from a word document, and in my haste I pasted more than what I intended to. It was all that I had written at the time, here is the balance....
SATURDAY 6TH JUNE.
Something very unfortunate happened today that will change our outlook on Thailand forever. This may sound dramatic when you hear about this incident but the totally relaxed state that up until now I have always found myself in, will always be tainted with a slight incertainty. My sense of peace and trust will always have an edge of cynicism. What makes it even worse is that today, even Tony wasn’t there for us. It wont stop us from returning to Thailand and eventually, the mental scars will heal, but we will never forget the sinking feeling when it happened.
As I am writing this jounal in a perfect chronological order, I will be true to this and you will have to read on to find out what happened. But don’t worry, when it does happen you are sure to know.
The breakfast spread is significantly improved on the weekend as the occupancy levels swell. The introduction of several Thai dishes to compliment the standard fare pleases me greatly as I combine poached eggs and minced pork with chili and basil to create a culinary feast.
For the first morning this week, the sun is beating down on us so Kerry requests some pool time but as the kids are restless, I take them into town for some thrills at the Go-Kart track. They have a great set-up with 2 separate tracks, and we are pleased to see that they have slower Karts that are suitable for younger children. The boys handle themselves with surprising dexterity except for one mishap that Caleb has with the tyre wall, but no damage done. The staff treat the kids really well and they both have an absolute ball.
Before catching a taxi back, I need to exchange some money and we head down to the South side of Walking Street as I noticed several banks there on my morning run. It is now about 11.30, but all of the booths are still closed, and most don’t open on this stretch until 3pm as they trade until the wee hours, indicative of the commerce and clientelle of this strip. This means that we travel the entire length of Walking Street and the boys get a bit of attention from the lady’s preparing themselves for the “afternoon delight” trade.
I find a bank open at the start of beach road and as I finalise my transaction, a baht bus stops, I negotiate a fee and we jump in. There is another passenger in the back, a lone American “gentlemen” who makes the comment “With all the empty buses around, do you have to get in one that is already in use.” I probably should have ignored this but as the driver had approached me, and the fact that they are basically a public bus, I bit back “So what you’re saying is that this upsets you?” He answered this by telling me how rude that he thought I was and as a resident of Pattaya, he had more right to be on this bus than we had. This boiled my blood a little and I let fly with a few choice adjectives that certainly would have been more colorful had the kids not have been there. To his credit, he backed down and got off, without paying, and both the driver and I gave him a gesticulatory send-off in unison.
As it was our last full day in Pattaya, I was determined to pack in as much as possible, and we decided to collect Kerry and all go and visit Mini Siam. This is a collection of world landmarks like the Sydney Opera House and the Statue of Liberty re-constructed in miniture. It is situated about 12km’s North of the Pattaya Beach area and the best price that I could negotiate with the Taxi mafiosa at the front of the hotel was 250 baht for the one way trip.
The drive there was reasonably uneventful for most of the trip and I sat in the back of the open sided truck that serve as Taxi’s taking photo’s of the passing parade.
To get into the parking lot for Mini Siam from the direction that we approached it from, you need to go about 100m past it and do a U turn. While we waited for a break in traffic, a bike approached the vehicle and entered the U turn area on the inside of us, the side that Kerry was on. As you sit on the side of the truck, facing in, Kerry had her back to the bike rider and I was on the opposite side facing her. I watched as he leaned towards her and seemed to touch her on the back of the neck and in a flash he took off, just avoiding the oncoming traffic. She screamed and for an instant, I was unable to process what had just happened. Kerry grabbed her throat and her face turned red and then I realized that her gold chain that I had bought her for her 30th Birthday, that she never took off, had gone.
Luckily, she was alright and the only damage done was mentally and financially. This chain held significant sentimental value but by far the greatest sadness and loss that we felt was that it happened in Thailand, a place that we love so much. We are always cautious and don’t take our personal safety and the safety of our belongings for granted when we travel, but it still left us with a feeling that we had just been cheated by a best friend. I know that it can happen anywhere and that it could have been much worse, but the calculated way that it all played out just left us all in shock. We contemplated reporting the incident, but how do you identify an asian male wearing a black helmet on a dark blue scooter in Pattaya. I didn’t note the licence plate number but as these plates have only 3 recognizable numbers with the balanace of the identification in Thai, it still would have been inconclusive.
When we pulled up in the parking lot, I asked the driver if he noticed what had just happened. He said he heard contact with the side of the vehicle but saw nothing. I suppose that he would have been looking at the uncoming traffic but I had a very strange feeling that this guy knew more than he was letting on. This is pure speculation and totally unfounded but my thoughts were further fueled when he didn’t ask us if I wanted him to wait for us or even enquire how long we would be or if we would be returning. Most drivers would see the option of another 250 baht fare after a one hour wait to be a reasonable trade off rather than picking up the odd 20 baht fare from the locals. The place was relatively deserted so it was unlikely that he would get a better offer.
Anyway, we tried to enjoy Mini Siam, but it was difficult under the circumstances. There are 80 different mini structures on display, they charge 300 baht for adults and 150 for kids and I suppose in the right frame of mind it would have been quite interesting. We were over it in about half an hour and decided to move on.
We jumped into another baht bus that already held several passengers, fortunately they were all Thai and understood the system as I wasn’t in the mood for any more confrontation. This guy wasn’t going all the way to our next destination but he told us where we could change buses to get to Central Festival Shopping Centre. The entire trip on both vehicles only cost us 80 baht.
We decided that if there was a movie showing that we all wanted to see in the first class theatre, we would treat ourselves to a deluxe cinematic experience. The lastest Terminator was showing, starting in about half an hour which pleased both the boys and I to no end but Kerry thought it would be a good opportunity to get her hair cut.
For 600 baht per person, you get to sit in extremely comfortable, electronically controlled recliners, get pampered with blankets and pillows and get served pop-corn and drinks until it comes out of your ears. You also get access to a lounge area, with drinks and nibbles, for up to an hour before the movie. The picture and sound is quite incredible but what the boys thought was the best fun was having to stand for the National Anthem whilst they showed various vision of the Kings greatest moments on the big screen.We all loved the experience and the movie but the “incident” was never far from my mind.
We met up with Kerry, who was sporting a great new hairdo, and shopped for a while then decided to go back to the Birds and Bee’s. None of us felt like venturing back out again, the kids were tired and I had that lingering doubt about the “taxi mafia” who were our only transport option without walking 800 meters up-hill to the main road.
Dinner tonight was at Cabbages and Condoms, an excellent Tom Kha Gai in a large hot-pot, creamed Crab meat in a Red Curry sauce and Chicken cooked in Pandaman leaves which was flavorsome but a little overcooked and dry. They had various carbohydrate options but I was curious about the “Red” jasmine rice that was listed and I ordered a large bowl of this to accompany our mains. It had a strange, almost unpleasant texture and flavour on it’s own but was Ok when mixed with the curry but I wouldn’t order it again. The kids went for western options of Burgers and Garlic Bread. All up, it was our most expensive meal so far at about 1600 baht with a few beers and soft drink. Very reasonable for the quality of the meal and when you factor in the amazing location and views of Pattaya bay, I would certainly recommend it.
Sorry to hear about the necklace snatching and I hope the rest of your holiday will be trouble free.
There are a lot of farang kee nok in Pattaya and I'm glad that your confrontation ended without much problem.
So sorry to hear about the necklace!! That's really sad, knowing how much you have enjoyed Thailand in the past. It would bother me as well!
I've been to the go-kart track on Samui. DS and our friends had a great time. They drove the fastest cars and had a blast. I'm sure your two boys enjoyed themselves very much at the Pattaya track. DS and friends have driven there as well, and they always talk about how much fun it is.
The movie theaters are definitely worth going to! I have been to the Gold Class in BKK. Even if the movie isn't much good, the surroundings are sooooooo pleasant!
Looking forward to your next report. Have a nice flight to Samui.
Carol
I'm sorry to hear about the necklace. I understand how it colors your vision of Thailand. While people are always warned of snatchings of purses, jewelry, cameras by guys on motorbikes, I've heard of it most often in VN.
And your encounter with the sexpat (my assumption) was certainly unpleasant. I guess those incidents would color my view of Pattaya more than my general view of Thailand.
sorry to hear about your misfortune, Shane.
unfortunately these things happen everywhere and it stinks that it had to happen to you in your favorite country.
glad that you seem to have gotten over it so quickly--I probably would've been fuming much longer than you.
re: your friendly bus-hoarding expat, could it have been a certain someone on the bus? nah, that'd be too good!
"could it have been a certain someone on the bus? nah, that'd be too good!" 555 you're a bad boy will!
my thoughts, exactly, filmwill!
Hi Shane
I'm sorry to hear about the necklace,pity something like that puts a damper on you hols.The only jewellery my wife wore when we were in Thailand was a wedding ring.Our guide in Chiang Mai told my wife not to go out with a shoulder bag as they rip it off as they ride past on a scooter,so she took his advise & didn't take a bag at all.Enjoy the rest of your hols.
Peter
Even in Thailand, there are people of low character. It's not a utopia.
You did much better in the bus encounter than I would have. I can just envision at least an extreme harsh exchange of words or worse. How sharpers than a serpent's tooth, the wrath of an accosted Panda.
There's a bandit in the bamboo
Hiding right over there
He's black and he's white
And he's covered with hair
He's wearing a mask
And even if you ask
He won't take it off
Not for anyone
But someone just said
When he goes to bed
He lies under the leaves
Slips it off secretly
Hangs it up on a twig
'Cause it's not very big
How I wish I could see
Just who he might be
The bandit in the bamboo
Looking forward to meeting the bamboo bandit!
THis won't get your necklace back, but there are a few things about the "taxi mafia" you might like to know.
you probably noticed that there are no tuk-tuks or meter taxis in Pattaya. (they have just introduced a few meter ones on second road).
THe reason for this is that there is a song taew monopoly.
THe song-taews are licenced through....the police!
Nepotism being what it is , you'll find that most Song taew drivers are either friends or family of police or even off-duty police.
...and the new meter taxis - licenced through the police.....
factor that into your driver's reaction.
whats that got to do with the drivers reaction?
More half truths and made up information by khunwilko! Taxis and all form of fare charging transportation in Thailand are licensed through the The Department of Land Transport NOT the local city police!!
You are so right FW, i really thought i had more self control.
BTW i booked the Jasmine Junk today....
you did? that's fantastic!! you will have such a wonderful time. are you guys doing the 2 night or 1 night cruise?
Thanks Hanuman for the poem. It brings a tear to my furry eye.
Shane-keep it coming. Ignore the hangers on.
1 night, i thought there was only so much "crusin" we could do (it looks so nice and struggled to choose between that and Valentine)
Sorry Shane for hijacking your thread....
so what does the new very heavy necklace look like?
what you did not buy one???? shame on shane....
It is of course a problem in Thailand that visitors relax - that's what they're here for - unfortunately one is tempted to relax too much and gets lulled into a sense of false security.
Petty crime in Thailand is arguably a lot lower than in other comparable countries - but with the increased urbanisation and exponential growth of tourist towns it is inevitable that crimes will increase....a cautionary tale for all of us.
"Something very unfortunate happened today that will change our outlook on Thailand forever. This may sound dramatic when you hear about this incident but the totally relaxed state that up until now I have always found myself in, will always be tainted with a slight incertainty. My sense of peace and trust will always have an edge of cynicism.'
Time heals all wounds, large and small. This too will pass.
SUNDAY 1ST JUNE.
I awoke early and ran to “Fitness Park” on the hill. Looking down on the park is a giant golden statue of Buddha. It was imposing, even from a distance. I didn’t want to get too close as my running atire was not appropriate for a sacred site, even in Pattaya.
As it was “Moving Day”, we packed up after breakfast and then went for a final swim. Check out time was officially mid-day but as our flight from Utapao didn’t leave until 5pm, I traded smiles with the girl on reception until she arranged a 3 hour extension, free of charge.
We went for a walk along the beach in front of the resort and realized that it was the first time that we had ventured down there. It was pleasant enough, but you would have to be reasonably brave to swim in it. The water had a “chocolate brown” tint to it but the sand was clean and freshly groomed and the view to the Islands was majestic. There were a few small local bars, restaraunts and the obligatory posse of massage girls on hand and if the weather had been more condusive to beach time during our stay, we would have spent more time there.
I was well and truly over trying to deal with the transport maffia at the front of the resort, so I decided to walk up to the main road and hail as passing songteuw for our trip to the airport. As I walked past them I received the standard inquisition, “Where you go?”, and as it was stinking hot, I weakened and thought that I would give them one more chance.
“ How much you charge to Utapao airpoirt?” I asked with as pleasant a demeanour as I could muster in light of my total disdain for this pack of rogues.
The reply came back very bluntly
“1200 baht”.
“ No” I said with the smile still painted onto my face “ Not Bangkok airport, I only go to Utapao”
“How much you pay?”
I knew the distance was about 35km, similar to the trip from Bangkok airport to downtown. The metered fare for this trip was only 190 baht, so I came back with what I considered to be a generous offer, “400 baht?” Thinking we would settle with 500.
“ No, long way. Last price 800 Baht”
There were 4 vacant songteuws sitting there that looked like they hadn’t moved all morning, surely they would accept less. But the reply had been blunt and devoid of the good humor that these negotiations normally contain.
“Too esspenseive” I replied in my in my best Thanglish, maintaining my friendly tone. I wasn’t expecting him to give me a local price but I certainly wanted a fair price and 4 times the metered price for a similar length of journey, without surcharges and tolls, seemed far from reasonable.
“You walk then”
This is where the negotiations broke down. I returned to plan A and started to stride up the hill, listening to them chat amongst themselves, raising questions about my parentage. What made the situation a little more unsavory was that the final retort had been made by the man that had been driving when Kerry had her knecklace snatched. He had shown some token sympathy at the time but this had long been forgotten.
I had a few motorcycle taxi’s question my destination as I walked the 800 meters uphill to the main road and I still tried to be polite but was finding it difficult after my previous verbal joust. I was carrying a backpack containing my camera and assorted lenses, laptop and other valuables that I didn’t want to leave unattended at reception so I was an obvious target, but this also helped to identify my need of transport when I reached the main road and within seconds of me getting there, a baht bus containing 2 young Thai girls in the back stopped and the window wound down to reveal a smiling face. Straight away, I knew this was my man. We quickly settled on a price of 500 baht and he drove me back down the hill, past the pack of hyena’s who I pleasantly smiled at and into the driveway of the Birds and Bees to collect the family and our luggage.
I had a great conversation with the 2 young girls who were on their way to Jomtien for lunch on the beach. They were not the slightest bit fazed about us hijacking their transport and the detour that we had to take. They were happy with the opportunity to practice their English and I tried out some of my limited Thai. One part of the conversation that revealed much to me was when one of the girls said “You very nice and friendly, most foreigners not so friendly.” At that moment I understood why the taxi driver had spoken to me so gruffly. We had seen so much evidence of it in the shops and restaraunts but it was only then that it became so glaringly obvious to me. It is the foreigners and not the Thai’s that have changed so much over time. A different breed of visitor is now invading the shores of Thailand, one far less polite and respectful and the locals are sick of the treatment that they are receiving.
We arrived at Utapao and check in took all of 5 minutes. I was glad that I had chosen to fly to Samui from here rather than return to Bangkok. The flight actually costs less from here as well, not significantly, but when you factor this across 4 tickets, it is a worthwhile saving. As it is a Bangkok Airways flight, there is a small trolley in the departure lounge with complimentary snacks and beverages. Caleb consumes 9 slices of Banana cake, belieing his 23kg frame. He eats so spasmodically that when he finds something that he likes we are inclined to just let him go for it.
The flight to Samui is smooth and short and before we know it we are making our approach and I spot the Big Buddha statue and pleasant memmories come flooding back. There is always something special about arriving at Samui airport. Even though the terminal has grown somewhat since our last visit, it still retains that quaint character and it oozes a feel of tropical paradise. I have instantly forgotten the run in with the sexpat and the heated negotiations with the songteuw maffia, I have even denounced the demons of the daylight snatch and grab. We have returned home.
We arrive at the Whitehouse Resort and Spa within 10 minutes of leaving the airport. The hotel has sent one of their staff to collect us. He is extremely pleasant and, as we are about to find out, this is indicitive of all the staff there. Bob Marley plays on the vehicles radio to set the perfect tone for our short drive.
We quickly drop our bags and decide to go for a stroll along the beach. Apart from Caleb, none of us have eaten since breakfast and we find a great little local restaurant on the beach. We make a quick decision to entrust them with our first meal on this trip to Samui and this proves to be an excellent choice. We feast on Shark in Garlic Pepper, Pad Thai, Green Curry with Chicken, Fried Rice with Shrimp and a bowl of fries for Caleb. We wash this down with a few bottles of Chang and soft drinks for the princely sum of 710 Baht. Caleb shares his fries with a 2 year old boy that belongs to one of the waitresses and we sit back and absorb the views of Koh Pan Gang and several fishing boats lit up in the distance. 12 nights of this will be very hard to take. I enjoyed Pattaya but I am glad that I am no longer there. I would like to go back some day but I think that Kerry would need some convincing.
MONDAY 8TH JUNE.
We decide that today will be a “Seinfeld Day”, a day about nothing. Not nothing as such, more like not very much.
Breakfast is comprehensive for a fairly inexpensive resort. The obligatory Egg Station, bacon, ham, potato bake, tomatoes, a thai stir fry, noodles, various cereals, pastries, fresh fruits and assorted sliced meats and salads. Plenty of choice and a difficult job to control the calorie intake at under my pre-noon quota of 2500. I manage to keep it to 4 courses, but only as I want to keep some room for lunch. I ran up and down hills for about an hour this morning to prepare myself for this culinary assult, so my guilt levels are low.
It is low tide at Choeng Mon beach this morning and the retracting waters have revealed a few rocky spots at either end of this little bay which detracts ever so slightly from the near perfect vision that we were greated with last night. The beach directly in front of us is still a vision of beauty and obstruction free. At this time of day, you need to walk about 100m into the sea to get out of your depth, not ideal for some, but it is a fantastic beach for kids. The sand is powdery and clean and the view out to sea is close to perfect. There are a few expensive looking yachts including a multi million dollar twin hull cat anchored close enough to shore to swim out to. I feel extremely lucky to be here.
The resort, like many in Samui, is absolute beachfront on a long and narrow strip of land. The rooms are contained in beautiful Thai style villas of a maximum height of 2 storey. We have booked a junior suite that is large enough to comfortably accommodate the four of us and we have been given room number 2. This room is in a perfect position, we open our front door, take 5 steps and reach the pool. On the other side of the pool is the small restaurant and beyond that is the beach. The rooms don’t have a balcony area but the close proximity to the never crowded pool makes up for this.
It is hard to get a guage on occupancy levels at the moment, but I would be surprised if the place was at 50%. There is no scramble for a beach or pool chair, no queing at the egg station, no need to rush, no need to stress. I have made a great choice of hotel for our expectations.
We are centrally located on this idyllic beach. There are several other resorts of all types with the impressive looking Muang Samui currently under construction. Most of the work is being done at the road end of this property so it doesn’t have any effect on us. There are beachfront restaraunts of varying levels of price and quality strung along the shoreline. The beach chairs make way for table settings in the evening, having dinner whilst feeling powdery sand between your toes is what dining on Samui is all about.
The place that we ate at last night was an absolute budget priced gem and we decide to return for lunch. We are not high end travellers and like to find value in our dining options. I generally like to eat at the “Mum and Dad” type local restaraunts and we rarely choose anything but Thai food as this is what these places do well. The first dish that I look for on the menu is a Pad Thai, not because I always order one, but the pricing of this dish will say a lot about the restaurant. I call it the “Pad Thai Index”. A PTI of greater than 120 baht would normally be a special occasion restaurant for us that has to offer something outstanding in terms of location or service. This little place which is connected to the “cheap and cheerful” Island View Bungalow Resort has a PTI of 70. This is extremely good value for beachfront dining and the food is well presented, of generous portion size and authentic flavour.
Again I go for the Shark, but this time in a hot curry sauce. It is cooked to perfection with the flesh of the fish soft and moist on the inside but firm and textured on the outside. The taste of this dish is just incredible. Kerry gets a Tom Kha Gai, her favorite, a coconut milk soup with chicken ,mushrooms and Thai eggplant flavored, among many things, with lemongrass. It is a mildly spiced soup with a tantalizing zing to it and again the Island View produces an A grade version of this signature dish. We accompany these choices with fried and steamed rice, the boys also have fried rice and with drinks the meal comes in at around 600 baht. The service is “familiar” rather than friendly if that makes sense. You feel that you are wanted but not needed.
The rest of the day is spent swimming and playing on the beach. Kerry and the boys buy a few bits and pieces from the passing parade of beach traders. They are not pushy but they are good at making you aware of their presence. We realize that you always pay a premium for anything bought on the beach but we are happy to help this local economy and the good natured way that price is negotiated by these beach marketeers makes it an enjoyable way to do business. These guys have to be super friendly to survive at this competitive game and they realise that you are generally there for a week or so and this effects the way they deal with you.
That night we peel ourselves off the beach and hit the street outside the resort. It is a very quiet area but it still has everything you need. Right next door is a mini-mart, next to that is a hair dressing salon followed by a nice little restaurant, a massage place and then another restaurant.
Across the road is a bakery that is also a laundry and travel agent, next to that is a Tailor an Indian restaurant, a Chemist and a car rental service. All of these places are no more than a 50m walk from the lobby of our resort. A slightly further walk will get you to a bank, an optometrist several shops and other restaraunts. There are no Beer Bars or Go Go’s, it is not that kind of place.
Your Samui resort sounds lovely! Do enjoy it, and let the less-than-nice things that happened at Pattaya fade from your memory.
Glad to see you back here giving your report.
Shanek, in regard to your comment about Thailand attracting a different kind of visitor... You know I think Pattaya attracts a different kind of visitor than say, Bangkok or Samui. I think that is part of what you were experiencing there. While this doesn't apply to every Pattaya visitor, it apparently applies to enough of them that the locals are wary.
I'm surprised rhe C7C wouldn't arrange your taxi/minibus to U'Tapao - did you ask?
great update....i'd love to return to samui....at the town of bophut there are a couple of nice cheap restaurants that you might like to try out
Hi Bob,
I am going to the Happy Elephant in Bophut (Fishermans Village) early next week, I will do a comprehensive report on the food there. We ate at the Dancing Crab (formerly BBC) at Big Buddha Beach yesterday and loved it. I will do a compiled Samui report rather than a day by as I fear my Beach/Eat/Massage routine will bore everyone senseless.
I love Samui but I now agree with others that Chaweng has gone to the dogs. Luckily it is a big Island so it is easy to avoid it.
Wilko, I actually asked reception at C and C about transport after I mentioned that I thought the guys outside were too expensive, but they just rang the Asia Hotel across the road who quoted 1200baht. He also mentioned that there are no metered taxi's in Pattaya. There is obviously some sought of arrangement made with the rouges out the front. If so, that seems like a pity as they are such an ethical establishment in all other regards.
It's my Birthday tommorow, I will do an update as soon as I get over the effects of way too many Changs.
Hey Shane - happy birthday - hope its a great day for you and the family.
I think you are right and the visitors have changed a lot - understandably the Thai people will get a bit pissed off with a lot of them - they (the visitors) can be very tough on the locals. I was in Phuket a couple of years ago after a long absence from that area and there were many more farang who really just treated the hotel staff as slave labour and were very rude. When we were due to leave one of the breakfast waitresses came up and gave me a small pair of ceramic vases - I couldn't believe it - she said that it was nice to have me smile and be kind each day! I must say that most mornings most of the guests treated the staff as if they were blocks of wood. I treasure those little vases. We are going back this week so will see how things are again now. We don't usually stay in Phuket as we prefer Bangkok but we are in need of a bit of a relax and the plane stops there (from Perth) so its an opportunity not to waste.
I love your PTI - great name - I usually use a similar system but will now call it Shane's PTI in your honour.
we have seen some really rude farang behavior, especially in the sextourism areas, mostly by men who are very self-important and like to throw their money around....areas like soi 4 sukhumvit and downtown pattaya....
you will love the elephant, we ate there twice....sit outside or near to the back deck...
there is another nice restaurant, quite simple, almost next door...
i agree about chaweng....it was a touristy dump kind of town when we were there several years ago, but there are a few decent hotels amongst the mess...
Yes - the taxi situation in Pattaya is lamentable - and run by the police.
For other trying to get to U'tpao, the only other suggestion would be whilst in town go to one of the travel-shops and arrange a pick up with them at your hotel. The price will never be as good VFM as getting to Suvarnabhumi as they are guaranteed return fares from there.
However I haven't been on Samui for a couple of years now - I'm not too keen on concreting islands! i remember the meter taxi situation there was completely out of control with whole traffic jams made up of tooting taxis looking for un-available customers....have they dome anything about that?
BTW - Have you been to "Uncle Nim's Majic Garden"? very strange little valley filled with concrete Buddhist statues. It's marked on the maps. If you go up there there are one or two benefits - great views, a couple of hill-top restaurants - the views being more important than he food - and clean lavatories!
I have traversed the isle several times in my 4wd - easy in the dry but I've had to turn back a few times in the wet. If you take to the hills though, you'll be rewarded by some spectacular scenery and views...even a bit of wildlife - great to get away from the ever increasing madding crowds down below.
I guess we don't know exactly when your big 43rd birthday bash is going to be, but do enjoy it!
Are you planning to rent a car at all? It's a fun way to be able to drive around the island for a day (or two). I highly recommend it. Car rentals are not expensive, and they will perhaps bring the car directly to your hotel. I know they did that for us, on Samui, back in April 2008. We had a car for almost all 5 days of our visit.
Have you been to The Cliff Restaurant yet? Very nice place. Great food. Great view.
Another great view is from a place called Beverly Hills (?) just out of Chaweng. You can go there for a nice cold Coke or beer and take in the view. It is also a restaurant, if you are hungry for lunch. I've not had any food there, just a nice cold beer. Cheaper than the fancier Cliff.
Just got back to work today after flying back to Melbourne 48 hours ago and driving back to Mildura last night.
As soon as I get a few things sorted out I will finsh my report.I have about 1500 photos to go through and I will post a link to some of the better ones.
The whole family agree that this was the best trip to Thailand that we have had and we are already planning a return in June 2010. I have a business jumket to Beijing to look forward to now in late August which gives me enough time to loose the 6kg that I have put on.
I apoligise for not continuing with my daily updates but as I got more relaxed and started sleeping in later, time got away from me.
Glad you and your family made it home safe and sound. Sounds like you are ready to go back to BKK again next year.
Hope the big birthday bash was a great time for one and all.
Take it easy, and write your report when you can get to it.
Carol
The rest of my trip report will be finished shortly.
For now, I have a few photo's to show you on the link provided.
http://www.travelforum.org/album.php?albumid=10
great pics...thanks
Thanks for the pics, shane. Your boys will remember their adventures in Thailand for a very long time! The photos really capture a lot of their unique experiences. Where else but in Thailand!
Carol
(just dropped off DS and a friend... a newbie to BKK... at OHare about 8 hours ago... on their way on UA to NRT-BKK)