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Tagayama or Nikko

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I am going to Japan for 12 nights in May, and particularly interested in culture, scenery, gardens and food.

I'll have a 4 month old in a sling, so will enjoy gentle walks - but not so keen on long coach / car trips (just in case he gets sad and I can't walk around to smooth him).

We will spend a few days in Tokyo at the start with a day trip to mount takao. Then we have a 3 night gap, before 4 nights in Kyoto (thinking of a day trip to the gardens in Kanazawa during that time + a day in Nara and a couple of days seeing Kyoto), a night at koyasan and finally Tokyo again.

The question is what to do in the 3 night gap: I have heard that Nikko is worth visiting, and also tagayama.

We haven't yet booked a ryokan so it'd be nice to stay in one during that time.

Do you think Nikko or tagayama? Or somewhere else? And if so any tips on where to stay?

Thank you!

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