Travelingmommy

Hello all: I hope you can help me with making some decisions on my upcoming trip to Japan in mid March for two weeks. This will be my first trip to Japan and from reading all your wonderful comments it will not be the last I am sure.

I want to explain my traveling style and then if possible you can help me.

I am pushing 60 - female and like to travel on a budget. Normally I travel solo but recently have teamed up with a work buddy - I do all the planning and she just pays and tags along - convenient for her but sometimes stressful for me.
I always travel by bus or rail and use city public transport or walk. I always travel with carry-on so when I shop at the markets I am looking for small keepsakes that will remind me of the village or city I have been.

My favorite countries in Europe are Germany, Austria and Switzerland - go figure!

I love different architecture with peaceful scenery and buildings - such as old European churches but I am not interested in museums or having to pay to go into buildings - seen too many in other travels.

Where would you suggest I go within Kyoto? Can I view most of the attractions from the exterior without having to pay? If not which one in your opinion is imperative to pay the entrance fee to see?

I plan on getting a 7 day rail pass and traveling west to Hiroshima and the Seto bridge area and of course Nara but these areas I will be fine I am sure finding places to my tastes.

W9London

Most of tourist attractions--temples and shrines--charge fees to visitors, though they're fairly modest. Ranging from JPY300-800. Some do charge extra for special exhibits etc.
You may want to think of this as charitable donation mainly used for upkeep etc.
In my opinion, you'll be missing at least 80% of the attractions if you want to stick to the "no-pay" policy. Many of the beauties are in interior or gardens you won't be able to see from outside.

emd

You really do need to go into some of the temples in Kyoto in order to experience the shrines in them (some are interactive, like the love-rock shrine, Jishu-jinja, inside of Kiyomizudera), the gardens, architecture, koi ponds, and general serenity and beauty. And in the case of Kiyomizudera, you also get the fantastic view of Kyoto from inside the complex, which is built into a high hillside. Also, some of the shrines, like Fushimi Inari, must be entered to be experienced (walking under the thousands of tori gates).

What you will experience in Kyoto is not like what you experienced in Europe. It is not just going in and looking at the cathedrals, like in Europe. It is more interactive than that. You can see traditional weddings happening inside of some shrines, there are restaurants inside some shrines, etc. And then there is the contemplative and quiet atmosphere and architecture that you only get by going inside.

You'll miss out on the flavor of Kyoto is you don't go into some of those places. I think Kiyomizudera is a must. There are several other wonderful temples in the Higashiyama area; I have a particular affinity for Shoren-in. It was an incredibly peaceful and wonderful place, lined w/bamboo groves in the back, and wonderful vibe, but from the outside it is just a wall and an entrance gate. But read this description by someone else who has been there, and see what I mean- it all unfolds once you go inside:

http://tinyurl.com/yjxhcf

emd

If you are going in March, I hope you can go during the Hana Touro festival! It is by far the most wonderful time I have had in Kyoto. The temples in Higashiyama are lit up at night, there is a free lighted sculpture exhibit in the park there, a free giant ikebana exhibit, free exceleent traditional music and dance performances on outdoor stages, maiko/geishas are taken through the streets of Higashiyama on rickshaws. Just magical, don't miss it. It started on March 11 in 2006, and it went til the 21st, w/the final weekend being the best.

There are some good pics on the web of this festival, like here, just google Hana Touro:

http://www.pbase.com/torakki/marchkyoto

For souveniers and just generally great people watching and food and fun, You might like the wonderful Toji Temple market on the 21st of the month if you are there then, or the one at Kitano temple on the 25th.

Mara

http://www.templefees.com/

Tm - my travel style is similar to yours as far as budget, public transport, etc. However I do tend to spend quite a bit on entrance fees. See above website for an idea of what they are in Kyoto.

I agree with the others completely - really, you can't think of going to Kyoto and not seeing (for example) Kinkakuji - the Golden Pavilion - in my opinion at least - because of the entry fee.....

I usually save money on accommodation and traveling plus I am not a foodie and do not spend that much on most meals. Also if you do want to go to museums, a museum pass is often a great deal.

Enjoy!

angethereader

I have to agree with the above posters.

We were in Japan in March and happened upon Hana Toro. It was amazing. The entrance fees are modest and you just can't miss some of the shrines and temples.

The Peace Memorial and Museum in Hiroshima is a don't miss also. The museum is 50Y - about .40¢

Also, if you have a rail pass, the ferry across to Miyajima is included. I wouldn't miss that either.

kaneda

Get yourself a Lonely Planet guide to Japan. Someone had done all the hard work for you and will tell you where to go, what to do, what not to miss and so on.

lilipad

2 HUGE temples near the train station are free, as is the fushimi shrine 5 minute train ride south of the station

Travelingmommy

I am so pleased with the response. I was starting to gather that I needed to enter a few of these sites and you have confirmed this.
I am also happy no one needed to criticize my traveling style - some sites are way too critical for my liking - thank you.

emd

lilipad, I am curious, which temples near the train station are you talking about? Toji temple is near there but it has a 500 yen charge.

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3919.html

emd

Mara, that is a great list. I have bookmarked it. Thank you.

Mara

Thanks, emd.
I think the free temples lilipad refers to are possibly Nishi Honganji and Higahi Honganji...

Mara

Tm - As I said, I am also quite frugal ;-)

I get into doing spreadsheets to figure out the optimal type of bus/train passes when I travel.

Concerning Kyoto, if you do a lot of walking and plan to use buses and cover one area of the city per day, I would suggest getting a kaisuken which is a strip of five bus tickets. They normally sell for 220 Yen each but you get the five for 1000 Yen thereby saving 100. Yes, I know, just about $1 US but....

Where I stayed in Kyoto (Kawaramachi-dori), it was very convenient to buses, and I only used the subway one day.

Most of the sites are within the 220 Yen fare zone.

Just as an aside, being frugal, I did miss going to a couple of places when I was in Kyoto and did sort of regret it later....

emd

MAra, I seriously think there is a market for a book on a budget-traveler's guide to Kyoto, if not all of Japan. Not like Let's Go or Lonely Planet, but instead one geared to the "mature traveler." Fodors used to do them but I think the Fodors budget series stopped production in the mid to late 1980s. A man named McQueen did a budget Japan guide but that was in 1997. Nothing good since then. I think you should write it. But of course, it would require another few trips there for research.

lilipad

mara is correct on the temples i was referring to - i was there only 2 weeks ago but after #%$#@ temples, i'm lucky to remember my own name . And yes, i know i owe a trip report which i'll do by next week, with names and everything.

i just wanted to add that the only issue with the frugal traveler book is that the budget traveler may refuse to dish out the $26 for the travel book - alas, that is the irony

i was pleased with lonely planet, that tries to cover all, from budget to top-end. you might as well forget about let's go, who's new motto is 'let's not go and say we did'

Mara

So who would like to underwrite my research?

Maybe I could work with mrwunrfl - he has a LOT more Japanese knowledge than I do and most of his traveling seems to be somewhat thrifty judging by the hotels he picks....

I know what you mean, lilipad, about od'ing on temples. Even with the audio note capability that I have on my digital camera (when I remember to use it) I sometimes can't figure out what the picture is....

Mara

btw, I spent an average of 5500 Yen a day over eight days not counting my hotel. I did charge a few things but not much....

With today's exchange rate that is about $46 US.

emd

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

$-) $-) $-) $-) $-) $-) $-) $-)

mrwunrfl

T-mommy, there is a Japan For Free guide at the following webpage, in the lower right under Special Interests:
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/index.html

Maybe that will give you some ideas. Maybe the Kyoto Walks guide on the same webpage would be useful to you.

We need to get started on that budget book, Mara.

Alec

Japan isn't a particularly cheap country, on par with Western Europe, but more expensive by Asia norm. But you normally get good value for money and charges, where made, aren't excessive in view of what you are getting to see. While entrance charges to temples etc can mount up, there is no need to see everything and by rationing temple visits to, say, three a day, you save yourself from cultural overload and appreciate more what you are going to see.
There are some free things to do and see in Kyoto - such as walking along the Philosopher's Path near the Silver Pavillion, the large Shinto shrines like Yasaka, the Imperial Palace and, most important of all, one or both of the imperial villas at Katsura Rikyu and Shugakuin Rikyu (the other, Sento Gosho, is mainly a garden) - you need to make prior reservations for imperial properties.
Also one of the delights of Japan is just watching the world go by - in old quarters, pedestrianised shopping streets, geisha and maiko-spotting in Gion. Also try to spend at least a day in the hills surrounding Kyoto, where the views and setting are often more impressive than the paid interior of temples - Hiei-zan excluded.