Sri Lanka in 7 Days: highlights & lessons learned
Oct 18th, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Sri Lanka in 7 Days: highlights & lessons learned
ABOUT US:
My husband Glen and I are in our late 20s/early 30s, living and working in Abu Dhabi, UAE and based in Washington DC. Between us we've traveled to 48 countries, yet never contributed to forums to share experiences for the benefit of other travelers until now. This is our first trip report, hope you'll find it helpful in planning your trip!
TRIP ITINERARY:
Dambulla - Sigiriya - Polonnaruwa - Kandy - Nuwara Eliya - Unawatuna Beach & Galle - Colombo
GENERAL TIPS:
Flights - If convenient to go via Dubai, I recommend FlyDubai, a low-cost carrier with nonstop service to Colombo, arriving 5AM so you get the full day.
Health - We took yellow fever and typhoid vaccines to be safe, but opted out of malaria pills and used repellent instead. Check http://www.cdc.gov/ for travel health advice.
Transport - We hired a driver via email based on recommendations on travel forums. Aruna gave the best quote, and we were happy with him: pleasant, informed, punctual, accommodating. His email is: Aruna Chaminda <[email protected]>
Food - Local eateries run about US $2-$4 per person, and street food is generally safe and tasty. Hotel restaurants are dearer on the wallet - about $12-$20 per person, but offer non-spicy options if you have dietary restrictions. Must eat treat is called the 'hopper', a coconut milk and rice flour thin crispy bowl with fillings - the egg and cheese is delicious.
Tipping - It's standard to leave 10% for meals. Many restaurants bill 10% service charge, so it's optional to leave a little extra or round up. For hotel staff minimum is 100 rupees, less would be too low. Exchanges & ATMs dispense 1000 rupee notes so remember to break to have small bills on hand. For Aruna our driver we added 25% of his fee.
Washrooms - Outside of hotels, washrooms typically do not have toilet paper or soap, so keep tissues and sanitizer with you.
Now to details city by city ...
My husband Glen and I are in our late 20s/early 30s, living and working in Abu Dhabi, UAE and based in Washington DC. Between us we've traveled to 48 countries, yet never contributed to forums to share experiences for the benefit of other travelers until now. This is our first trip report, hope you'll find it helpful in planning your trip!
TRIP ITINERARY:
Dambulla - Sigiriya - Polonnaruwa - Kandy - Nuwara Eliya - Unawatuna Beach & Galle - Colombo
GENERAL TIPS:
Flights - If convenient to go via Dubai, I recommend FlyDubai, a low-cost carrier with nonstop service to Colombo, arriving 5AM so you get the full day.
Health - We took yellow fever and typhoid vaccines to be safe, but opted out of malaria pills and used repellent instead. Check http://www.cdc.gov/ for travel health advice.
Transport - We hired a driver via email based on recommendations on travel forums. Aruna gave the best quote, and we were happy with him: pleasant, informed, punctual, accommodating. His email is: Aruna Chaminda <[email protected]>
Food - Local eateries run about US $2-$4 per person, and street food is generally safe and tasty. Hotel restaurants are dearer on the wallet - about $12-$20 per person, but offer non-spicy options if you have dietary restrictions. Must eat treat is called the 'hopper', a coconut milk and rice flour thin crispy bowl with fillings - the egg and cheese is delicious.
Tipping - It's standard to leave 10% for meals. Many restaurants bill 10% service charge, so it's optional to leave a little extra or round up. For hotel staff minimum is 100 rupees, less would be too low. Exchanges & ATMs dispense 1000 rupee notes so remember to break to have small bills on hand. For Aruna our driver we added 25% of his fee.
Washrooms - Outside of hotels, washrooms typically do not have toilet paper or soap, so keep tissues and sanitizer with you.
Now to details city by city ...
Oct 18th, 2013, 10:14 PM
#2
hi Tara,
thanks for dropping in to tell us about your trip. Sri Lanka has become quite popular in recent years - we got the bug and spent 2 weeks there last year, following an itinerary not dissimilar to yours, except that we took twice as long!
I'm looking forward to hearing about your journey round Sri Lanka.
thanks for dropping in to tell us about your trip. Sri Lanka has become quite popular in recent years - we got the bug and spent 2 weeks there last year, following an itinerary not dissimilar to yours, except that we took twice as long!
I'm looking forward to hearing about your journey round Sri Lanka.
Oct 19th, 2013, 12:55 AM
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DAY ONE - DAMBULLA
The first striking thing on exiting Colombo airport is the lush greenness - you can see why Sri Lanka is called 'the emerald isle'. Coming from a desert climate, the rain was a refreshing change for us. October is the inter-monsoonal season when weather can be 'unsettled', but we had sunny days the whole week except for the first morning.
Aruna met us, and after buying a local SIM (US $10) and breakfast, we set off on the four-hour route to Dambulla. Except for the southern expressway connecting the capital to the south coast, Sri Lankan roads are one lane each way, meaning slow going and frequent overtaking of trucks and tuk-tuks. The driving is far saner compared to places like India or Egypt, but in terms of planning time on the road, most times you average 40km/hr.
En route we stopped at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. The elephants had been taken to the river to bathe. They looked content rubbing mud on each other's backs and scratching against rocks, etc. until we saw they were dragging chains used to tie them up at the orphanage. A bit depressing.
Street peddlers accost you at all tourist sites, as they do anywhere else. Again, unlike Delhi and Cairo, they are not as insistent and intrusive. Here they sold paper products made of elephant dung (!) as well as the usual touristy wares.
We got into Dambulla by 2pm and had lunch at a roadside restaurant. The bill was shockingly low, 300 rupees (~ $2.5). We'd read that portions are huge, so we shared one order of rice and curry (the country's staple dish). Nearly every meal afterward was upward of $30 however, since spicy food is bad for acid reflux, we stuck to milder interpretations of Sri Lankan food at hotels.
CAVE TEMPLES
Dambulla's Golden Temple is definitely worth visiting, one of the most unique Buddhist sites I've seen. Admission is $10 and 700 steps up to the caves. Keep food out of sight as monkeys might grab it. The largest of the five chambers is stunning, lined all around with Buddha figures (standing, seated, reclining) in a spacious, dim, cool chamber.
HERITANCE KANDALAMA
This hotel lived up to its reputation of beauty and luxury. Right on the lake, it blends into the surrounding forests with open-air architecture, glass walls and grassy terraces. Our room was nice, with a hot tub enclosed in a glass nook. Geckos abounded, but they keep to themselves on the ceiling.
Hotels in Sri Lanka welcome you during check-in with scented towels and fresh juice. Here it was woodapple. Our favorite, later in Kandy, was ambarella, a fragrant, luscious cousin of the mango.
After showering and resting, we went down to the spa (part of the Six Senses chain) for Thai massages. I've had Thai in Chang Mai and get them regularly in Dubai, and can say these therapists were excellent. Great rebooting after sitting in a plane/car for hours.
We skipped the buffet dinner and had a la carte Western fare with the local brew, Lion, an easy to drink lager.
The first striking thing on exiting Colombo airport is the lush greenness - you can see why Sri Lanka is called 'the emerald isle'. Coming from a desert climate, the rain was a refreshing change for us. October is the inter-monsoonal season when weather can be 'unsettled', but we had sunny days the whole week except for the first morning.
Aruna met us, and after buying a local SIM (US $10) and breakfast, we set off on the four-hour route to Dambulla. Except for the southern expressway connecting the capital to the south coast, Sri Lankan roads are one lane each way, meaning slow going and frequent overtaking of trucks and tuk-tuks. The driving is far saner compared to places like India or Egypt, but in terms of planning time on the road, most times you average 40km/hr.
En route we stopped at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. The elephants had been taken to the river to bathe. They looked content rubbing mud on each other's backs and scratching against rocks, etc. until we saw they were dragging chains used to tie them up at the orphanage. A bit depressing.
Street peddlers accost you at all tourist sites, as they do anywhere else. Again, unlike Delhi and Cairo, they are not as insistent and intrusive. Here they sold paper products made of elephant dung (!) as well as the usual touristy wares.
We got into Dambulla by 2pm and had lunch at a roadside restaurant. The bill was shockingly low, 300 rupees (~ $2.5). We'd read that portions are huge, so we shared one order of rice and curry (the country's staple dish). Nearly every meal afterward was upward of $30 however, since spicy food is bad for acid reflux, we stuck to milder interpretations of Sri Lankan food at hotels.
CAVE TEMPLES
Dambulla's Golden Temple is definitely worth visiting, one of the most unique Buddhist sites I've seen. Admission is $10 and 700 steps up to the caves. Keep food out of sight as monkeys might grab it. The largest of the five chambers is stunning, lined all around with Buddha figures (standing, seated, reclining) in a spacious, dim, cool chamber.
HERITANCE KANDALAMA
This hotel lived up to its reputation of beauty and luxury. Right on the lake, it blends into the surrounding forests with open-air architecture, glass walls and grassy terraces. Our room was nice, with a hot tub enclosed in a glass nook. Geckos abounded, but they keep to themselves on the ceiling.
Hotels in Sri Lanka welcome you during check-in with scented towels and fresh juice. Here it was woodapple. Our favorite, later in Kandy, was ambarella, a fragrant, luscious cousin of the mango.
After showering and resting, we went down to the spa (part of the Six Senses chain) for Thai massages. I've had Thai in Chang Mai and get them regularly in Dubai, and can say these therapists were excellent. Great rebooting after sitting in a plane/car for hours.
We skipped the buffet dinner and had a la carte Western fare with the local brew, Lion, an easy to drink lager.
Oct 19th, 2013, 12:59 AM
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Thanks for the welcome Annahig!
Much of the report will be repetitive for you I guess, but I'll try to keep it concise-ish with broad impressions and practical tips for prospective visitors. Hope you enjoy, and I'll be reading yours to compare notes for possible future visits
Much of the report will be repetitive for you I guess, but I'll try to keep it concise-ish with broad impressions and practical tips for prospective visitors. Hope you enjoy, and I'll be reading yours to compare notes for possible future visits
Oct 19th, 2013, 01:27 AM
#5
Hi Tara,
a nice start. interesting that you weren't too phased by the roads and the traffic. having never been either to India or Egpyt before, Sri Lanka's roads were a bit of a culture shock for us, and we were very relieved to find ourselves at the Kandalama, which was recommended to us by fellow fodorite Kathie. The buffet was well worth having, BTW; the SRi lankan food was delicious and not too spicy, most of the time.
we didn't use the Spa but the swimming pools were lovely - we tried every one during our 3 night stay.
where to next? Kandy?
a nice start. interesting that you weren't too phased by the roads and the traffic. having never been either to India or Egpyt before, Sri Lanka's roads were a bit of a culture shock for us, and we were very relieved to find ourselves at the Kandalama, which was recommended to us by fellow fodorite Kathie. The buffet was well worth having, BTW; the SRi lankan food was delicious and not too spicy, most of the time.
we didn't use the Spa but the swimming pools were lovely - we tried every one during our 3 night stay.
where to next? Kandy?
Oct 19th, 2013, 07:10 AM
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DAY TWO: POLONNARUWA
We'd originally intended to spend early morning at Sigiriya, 30min away, and continue to Polonnaruwa in the afternoon, 2hrs further east. But due to a late start (set out at 10am), Aruna advised it would be too hot for climbing and best to leave it for later that day.
He also noted I must cover my shoulders and legs to enter the temple areas, which I'd forgotten about. Fortunately he knew a garment shop nearby, called Silk Gardens, which had a tasteful selection of sarongs, batiks, caftans, etc. I bought a silk sarong for $40 (after they applied a 20% "standard discount") and Glen liked an indigo linen shirt but only size S was left in all mens' shirts - clearly they could use better inventory planning! This is also where we had our first taste of Ceylon tea in Ceylon
A word on driver recommendations: Aruna frankly explained that drivers have deals with shops and restaurants to receive commissions or free meals for bringing customers. We didn't mind, but sometimes chose places ourselves that we'd read about on forums (although forums can be echo chambers of others' 'driver recommendations'!).
At Polonnaruwa, Aruna had booked a guide who we picked up at the park entrance. We asked for an abbreviated tour, which lasted about two hours covering highlights of the 12th century ruins of this ancient city: the royal palace, council hall, shrines, pagoda ... the park is extensive and we drove from site to site, with AC a welcome respite from the midday heat. My favorite part was the 'Vatadage,' an elevated circular structure housing four Buddhas facing north, south, east, west; the staircases protected by warrior 'guardstones' and preceded by 'moonstones' which resemble ornate stone doormats.
During the tour we breaked for king coconuts, ubiquitous on the island. Fresh-tasting and incredibly hydrating - we had one whenever we could over the next days.
As we wanted to get back to Sigiriya, we didn't see the museum or walk along the canal. We tipped the guide 2,500 rupees (~$20). He directed us to a spot for lunch, which turned out to be the most memorable meal of the trip. I kept the card: Priyamali Gedara (no. 1595 Bendiwewa, Jayanthipura, Polonnaruwa). Pretty huts outdoors, no menus, they bring out a spread of ten or so daily dishes. Curries like jackfruit & chestnut, okra, aubergine, pumpkin, beetroot, both vegetarian and with meat, and fish fritters. Curd and honey for dessert. All amazingly flavorful - if I recommend one place to eat in SL, this is it.
We got to Sigiriya at five, just when Lion Rock closes. Resolved to get up early the following morning and fit it in before heading to the next destination, Kandy.
Quick note, we booked hotels a month in advance on Booking and Agoda, but Heritance fills up early - it was not available for our second night. We stayed at Amaya Lake instead, which was quite nice (golf carts driving you to the villas and a livelier bar). Of the two, I preferred Heritance purely out of admiration for its architecture.
A last note: we went during the Eid holiday observed in the UAE and other Islamic countries. Waitstaff, shop clerks, etc. customarily ask 'Where are you from?" to which on replying "the Emirates" (many Sri Lankans have friends or relatives working there so are familiar with it), they'd nod ah yes, it's "Arab Season." Amusing, but very true - we especially noticed many Saudi families, presumably escaping the annual two million plus pilgrims pouring into their country for Haj.
We'd originally intended to spend early morning at Sigiriya, 30min away, and continue to Polonnaruwa in the afternoon, 2hrs further east. But due to a late start (set out at 10am), Aruna advised it would be too hot for climbing and best to leave it for later that day.
He also noted I must cover my shoulders and legs to enter the temple areas, which I'd forgotten about. Fortunately he knew a garment shop nearby, called Silk Gardens, which had a tasteful selection of sarongs, batiks, caftans, etc. I bought a silk sarong for $40 (after they applied a 20% "standard discount") and Glen liked an indigo linen shirt but only size S was left in all mens' shirts - clearly they could use better inventory planning! This is also where we had our first taste of Ceylon tea in Ceylon
A word on driver recommendations: Aruna frankly explained that drivers have deals with shops and restaurants to receive commissions or free meals for bringing customers. We didn't mind, but sometimes chose places ourselves that we'd read about on forums (although forums can be echo chambers of others' 'driver recommendations'!).
At Polonnaruwa, Aruna had booked a guide who we picked up at the park entrance. We asked for an abbreviated tour, which lasted about two hours covering highlights of the 12th century ruins of this ancient city: the royal palace, council hall, shrines, pagoda ... the park is extensive and we drove from site to site, with AC a welcome respite from the midday heat. My favorite part was the 'Vatadage,' an elevated circular structure housing four Buddhas facing north, south, east, west; the staircases protected by warrior 'guardstones' and preceded by 'moonstones' which resemble ornate stone doormats.
During the tour we breaked for king coconuts, ubiquitous on the island. Fresh-tasting and incredibly hydrating - we had one whenever we could over the next days.
As we wanted to get back to Sigiriya, we didn't see the museum or walk along the canal. We tipped the guide 2,500 rupees (~$20). He directed us to a spot for lunch, which turned out to be the most memorable meal of the trip. I kept the card: Priyamali Gedara (no. 1595 Bendiwewa, Jayanthipura, Polonnaruwa). Pretty huts outdoors, no menus, they bring out a spread of ten or so daily dishes. Curries like jackfruit & chestnut, okra, aubergine, pumpkin, beetroot, both vegetarian and with meat, and fish fritters. Curd and honey for dessert. All amazingly flavorful - if I recommend one place to eat in SL, this is it.
We got to Sigiriya at five, just when Lion Rock closes. Resolved to get up early the following morning and fit it in before heading to the next destination, Kandy.
Quick note, we booked hotels a month in advance on Booking and Agoda, but Heritance fills up early - it was not available for our second night. We stayed at Amaya Lake instead, which was quite nice (golf carts driving you to the villas and a livelier bar). Of the two, I preferred Heritance purely out of admiration for its architecture.
A last note: we went during the Eid holiday observed in the UAE and other Islamic countries. Waitstaff, shop clerks, etc. customarily ask 'Where are you from?" to which on replying "the Emirates" (many Sri Lankans have friends or relatives working there so are familiar with it), they'd nod ah yes, it's "Arab Season." Amusing, but very true - we especially noticed many Saudi families, presumably escaping the annual two million plus pilgrims pouring into their country for Haj.
Oct 19th, 2013, 07:15 AM
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Hi Ida,
I agree with Annhig that 2 weeks is the way to go. Our pace felt too rushed, esp with all the slow road time ...
In terms of Sri Lanka vs. Thailand, you must see both! Only question is, which first, and perhaps comparing prices if going in high season (Dec - April).
I agree with Annhig that 2 weeks is the way to go. Our pace felt too rushed, esp with all the slow road time ...
In terms of Sri Lanka vs. Thailand, you must see both! Only question is, which first, and perhaps comparing prices if going in high season (Dec - April).
Oct 19th, 2013, 08:02 AM
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I always love reading about people's trips to Sri Lanka. It's a place we loved and would like to return to.
One question: Did someone advise you to get the yellow fever vaccine? There is no yellow fever in Asia at all, it is a disease of Africa and Central/South America. Anyway, if a health care provider advised this vaccine, I'd be very cautious about taking their recommendations about travel medicine.
Looking forward to more on your trip.
One question: Did someone advise you to get the yellow fever vaccine? There is no yellow fever in Asia at all, it is a disease of Africa and Central/South America. Anyway, if a health care provider advised this vaccine, I'd be very cautious about taking their recommendations about travel medicine.
Looking forward to more on your trip.
Oct 19th, 2013, 09:34 AM
#10
Tara - a good idea to postpone seeing Sigiriya til the next day when it wasn't too hot - but a shame that you couldn't have 2 nights at the Kandalama - we thought that it was a destination in itself.
Ida - if you click on my screen name to find my trip report, you'll see that we didn't think that even 2 weeks was long enough to see all we wanted to. however, it is enough to see a good deal of the island at a reasonable pace.
Ida - if you click on my screen name to find my trip report, you'll see that we didn't think that even 2 weeks was long enough to see all we wanted to. however, it is enough to see a good deal of the island at a reasonable pace.
Oct 19th, 2013, 10:45 AM
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DAY THREE: SIGIRIYA & KANDY
Around 9am we were at Lion Rock, glad of cloudless sunny weather. Got a big kick out of the signs dotting the area: "Stay still and silent in a wasp attack" "Dangerous to travel after 6pm, elephants roaming" and one about crocodiles in the moat. We did see hornet nests on the way up, with signs warning not to make loud noises near them.
The 1,200 steps to the top were not as bad as they sound, being spaced out in stretches where you can rest by taking in vistas and the fresco gallery. The last set of narrow, steep steps were daunting for me; as I clung to the rail moving a slow step at a time, a guide popped up and began helping me which was comforting and motivating. Except the point where he dutifully pointed out the wildlife - "Look on the rock here behind you Madame, see please, the snake." By then, geckos, bats at night, hornets, I was acclimated!
The view and citadel ruins at the top are worth every step. Lion Rock was our favorite place in the north (and Galle Fort in the south).
Again due to time constraints we passed on the museum, though hearing it's a good one. Likewise not enough time for Tooth Temple, Botanical Gardens, and the other trio of temples near Kandy. Wished we had ten days for this multi-city itinerary, to take it all in without rushing.
Now to Kandy and our dearest 'lesson learned' ... having only an afternoon there, we chose a hotel by the lake where sights are centered. Read on to see why this was a mistake!
Aruna invited us for dinner at his house, so after checking in at Suisse Hotel, Glen and I walked around the main shopping street to buy chocolates to take to Aruna's, and souvenirs at the state-owned handicraft shop Laksala (coconut wood bowls - $10 a pop). We held off on tea as we were headed to tea country. We compared prices for Kandyan masks with ones we'd purchased that morning at Oak Ray, a woodworking shop Aruna had taken us to in Sirigiya: even after the "discount" we'd gotten, the masks here were half price. I'm no judge of mask craftsmanship, but the fixed, haggle-free prices at Laksala (and at Barefoot in Galle) are more appealing.
Thankfully we went back to our room to drop off the purchase, because as we walked in a largish rat scampered by the bed into the bathroom. I have a terrible phobia of rodents, and shrieked and dashed onto a chair in the balcony, while Glen (bravely!) shut the bathroom door. Clearly, if there's a rat around, it's not just one. Kandy Lake is man-made and bog-like; who knew if there weren't rats in all hotels lakeside, since most are dated. Immediately asked hotel manager for a refund, which he gave, and booked a room at Theva Residency, which I'd read about, situated high in the hills far away from the lake!
Dinner with Aruna and his family brightened the night. His wife and elderly parents were shy of us, but his two daughters (ages 11 and 7) sang songs in Sinhalese. Their house was modest but had a garden where they grew nutmeg. His wife went out of her way to prepare five dishes - it was a treat to have homecooked food, and enjoy their hospitality. We talked with Aruna and his father of the civil war (which Glen is more familiar with, being a political risk analyst), the current government, daily life in Sri Lanka, the girls' schools, etc. His wife and mother didn't speak English, but his daughters did - we guessed it was a generational gender divide in education. All in all, it was an evening we won't soon forget.
To wrap up on an upbeat note, Theva was a cute boutique hotel with a spectacular hilltop view over the Kandyan countryside. We spent a comfortably clean night and woke to a good breakfast of fruit and burritos with fresh guacamole.
Around 9am we were at Lion Rock, glad of cloudless sunny weather. Got a big kick out of the signs dotting the area: "Stay still and silent in a wasp attack" "Dangerous to travel after 6pm, elephants roaming" and one about crocodiles in the moat. We did see hornet nests on the way up, with signs warning not to make loud noises near them.
The 1,200 steps to the top were not as bad as they sound, being spaced out in stretches where you can rest by taking in vistas and the fresco gallery. The last set of narrow, steep steps were daunting for me; as I clung to the rail moving a slow step at a time, a guide popped up and began helping me which was comforting and motivating. Except the point where he dutifully pointed out the wildlife - "Look on the rock here behind you Madame, see please, the snake." By then, geckos, bats at night, hornets, I was acclimated!
The view and citadel ruins at the top are worth every step. Lion Rock was our favorite place in the north (and Galle Fort in the south).
Again due to time constraints we passed on the museum, though hearing it's a good one. Likewise not enough time for Tooth Temple, Botanical Gardens, and the other trio of temples near Kandy. Wished we had ten days for this multi-city itinerary, to take it all in without rushing.
Now to Kandy and our dearest 'lesson learned' ... having only an afternoon there, we chose a hotel by the lake where sights are centered. Read on to see why this was a mistake!
Aruna invited us for dinner at his house, so after checking in at Suisse Hotel, Glen and I walked around the main shopping street to buy chocolates to take to Aruna's, and souvenirs at the state-owned handicraft shop Laksala (coconut wood bowls - $10 a pop). We held off on tea as we were headed to tea country. We compared prices for Kandyan masks with ones we'd purchased that morning at Oak Ray, a woodworking shop Aruna had taken us to in Sirigiya: even after the "discount" we'd gotten, the masks here were half price. I'm no judge of mask craftsmanship, but the fixed, haggle-free prices at Laksala (and at Barefoot in Galle) are more appealing.
Thankfully we went back to our room to drop off the purchase, because as we walked in a largish rat scampered by the bed into the bathroom. I have a terrible phobia of rodents, and shrieked and dashed onto a chair in the balcony, while Glen (bravely!) shut the bathroom door. Clearly, if there's a rat around, it's not just one. Kandy Lake is man-made and bog-like; who knew if there weren't rats in all hotels lakeside, since most are dated. Immediately asked hotel manager for a refund, which he gave, and booked a room at Theva Residency, which I'd read about, situated high in the hills far away from the lake!
Dinner with Aruna and his family brightened the night. His wife and elderly parents were shy of us, but his two daughters (ages 11 and 7) sang songs in Sinhalese. Their house was modest but had a garden where they grew nutmeg. His wife went out of her way to prepare five dishes - it was a treat to have homecooked food, and enjoy their hospitality. We talked with Aruna and his father of the civil war (which Glen is more familiar with, being a political risk analyst), the current government, daily life in Sri Lanka, the girls' schools, etc. His wife and mother didn't speak English, but his daughters did - we guessed it was a generational gender divide in education. All in all, it was an evening we won't soon forget.
To wrap up on an upbeat note, Theva was a cute boutique hotel with a spectacular hilltop view over the Kandyan countryside. We spent a comfortably clean night and woke to a good breakfast of fruit and burritos with fresh guacamole.
Oct 19th, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Hi Kathie,
We are (hoping) to go to Africa in December, so figured to get vaccinated in one go. You're right though about checking what's needed, because we also wanted a cholera vaccine but were advised it's not necessary.
Kathie, Femi, Ida - now having been, I am eager to re-read SL trip reports on this forum in a new light. Thanks for taking time to read and comment!
We are (hoping) to go to Africa in December, so figured to get vaccinated in one go. You're right though about checking what's needed, because we also wanted a cholera vaccine but were advised it's not necessary.
Kathie, Femi, Ida - now having been, I am eager to re-read SL trip reports on this forum in a new light. Thanks for taking time to read and comment!
Oct 19th, 2013, 11:13 AM
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Ah, good, the yellow fever vaccine is for your Africa trip.
The cholera vaccine is not very effective and your risk for cholera is very low unless you are working in refugee camps or similar conditions.
It does seem that staying in the hills outside of Kandy has the best selection of boutique places to stay. We stayed at the Kandy House, which we loved and had egg hoppers for breakfast - yum. I've heard good things about the Theva Residency, glad to hear you liked it.
The cholera vaccine is not very effective and your risk for cholera is very low unless you are working in refugee camps or similar conditions.
It does seem that staying in the hills outside of Kandy has the best selection of boutique places to stay. We stayed at the Kandy House, which we loved and had egg hoppers for breakfast - yum. I've heard good things about the Theva Residency, glad to hear you liked it.
Oct 19th, 2013, 12:58 PM
#15
how funny that you ended up at the Theva - that's where we stayed in Kandy and we liked it very much. the food was fantastic - some of the best we've had anywhere.
We too had a rodent experience up in the hill country - on our second morning i was surprised to find DH's slipper sitting on the bath. he said that in the night he'd been awoken by a rustling noise and seen a rat running across the floor of our bedroom. He'd chased it into the bathroom and up onto the coat rack; eventually he'd used his slipper to "encourage it" to leave via the window, which gave out onto the garden, and which we'd left open to give a draft. [no air con up in the hills!] How I slept through this is a mystery. Needless to say we didn't leave that window open again!
it's a shame you missed the botanical gardens in Kandy - they were a highlight of our trip. OTOH you did get a unique chance to eat with your driver and his family. we didn't meet our driver's family, but we heard a lot about them, including the fact that his daughter was in the Sri Lankan synchronised swimming team. Who knew?
We too had a rodent experience up in the hill country - on our second morning i was surprised to find DH's slipper sitting on the bath. he said that in the night he'd been awoken by a rustling noise and seen a rat running across the floor of our bedroom. He'd chased it into the bathroom and up onto the coat rack; eventually he'd used his slipper to "encourage it" to leave via the window, which gave out onto the garden, and which we'd left open to give a draft. [no air con up in the hills!] How I slept through this is a mystery. Needless to say we didn't leave that window open again!
it's a shame you missed the botanical gardens in Kandy - they were a highlight of our trip. OTOH you did get a unique chance to eat with your driver and his family. we didn't meet our driver's family, but we heard a lot about them, including the fact that his daughter was in the Sri Lankan synchronised swimming team. Who knew?
Oct 19th, 2013, 02:58 PM
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Enjoying your report, having visited a few years ago during the civil war. Great that you could spend time at your guide's home with his family - those types of experiences will stay with you forever. Click on my name for my SL trip report...
Oct 19th, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Craig - your TR informed much of our trip! LOVE your writing style and travel style.
Annahig, sorry you had a rat experience like us - not fun. BTW I forgot to mention another reason the driving didn't faze me: I grew up half my life in Iran (where my parents still live) and though we have wide highways and no tuk tuks there, I'm used to poor driving!
Annahig, sorry you had a rat experience like us - not fun. BTW I forgot to mention another reason the driving didn't faze me: I grew up half my life in Iran (where my parents still live) and though we have wide highways and no tuk tuks there, I'm used to poor driving!
Oct 19th, 2013, 07:08 PM
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I guess we can't post photos here? Where do you recommend to put them up?
In the meantime here are a few on Instagram:
Dinner cooking at Aruna's
http://instagram.com/p/fYACB9DzWp/
Egg hoppers
http://instagram.com/p/fjQu0LDzQN/
Tea country
http://instagram.com/p/fcjgq2jzae/
View at Unawatuna
http://instagram.com/p/febDDGjzQ0/
In the meantime here are a few on Instagram:
Dinner cooking at Aruna's
http://instagram.com/p/fYACB9DzWp/
Egg hoppers
http://instagram.com/p/fjQu0LDzQN/
Tea country
http://instagram.com/p/fcjgq2jzae/
View at Unawatuna
http://instagram.com/p/febDDGjzQ0/
Oct 20th, 2013, 08:04 AM
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DAY FOUR: NUWARA ELIYA
The scenic road from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya more than made up for its distance. Slow winding turns pass by bright emerald tea fields, pops of colorful flowers, giant bamboo, and then climb higher into mist-shrouded mountains punctuated by waterfalls. Gorgeous.
We stopped on the way at Tea Bush Ramboda for coffee --kidding of course-- which Aruna said was a recently opened hotel restaurant. It is notable as a vantage point ideal for taking photos, all glass with a deck facing the mountains/waterfall. I'll post photos once I figure out where to do so (any suggestions?).
A note on photo opps: during a stop, two tea picker ladies came up and told us "Photo!" and assumed smiling poses holding up tea leaves. We'd barely snapped a picture when they dropped the leaves and said "Photo money!" and as Glen was pulling out rupee notes, one lady literally stuck her hand over his and seized three 100 notes, and the pair beelined away. It's understandable, as Aruna told us that Western tourists are considered "millionaires" by the average person working in SL's tourist industry. But still - snatching is a bit much!
Anyhow, onto the Mackwoods tea factory. As many have noted in your TRs, the tour is informative and it's interesting to see the process from tea plant to cup. Free cuppa is served at the shop, where we bought a dozen or so boxes for friends/family of the factory brand.
Nuwara Eliya, called 'Little England,' combines a village aesthetic with golf courses and colonial clubhouses. Overcast and chilly at 16 degrees, it felt like a sudden transplant to another country. We asked for a radiator in our unheated room at Unique Cottages (a boutique hotel which was decent but none too wowing), and, after days of nearly constant road travel, crashed and napped until nightfall. You see again, how a rushed itinerary makes you miss out on what you're meant to be doing, e.g. hiking in the tea fields!
In the spirit of the town's history, we had a few G&Ts at the Hill Club, then dinner at their 'casual' restaurant since Glen didn't have a jacket and tie. They offered to loan him one, but it felt silly, as I was in a sweatshirt and jeans - but it was the gentleman who had to dress of course. The cold made us crave comfort food, and hot soup and creamy lasagna hit the spot (sorry to disappoint, our eating was less adventurous than we usually do).
That's it for NE. Please tell me - how much did we miss?!
The scenic road from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya more than made up for its distance. Slow winding turns pass by bright emerald tea fields, pops of colorful flowers, giant bamboo, and then climb higher into mist-shrouded mountains punctuated by waterfalls. Gorgeous.
We stopped on the way at Tea Bush Ramboda for coffee --kidding of course
-- which Aruna said was a recently opened hotel restaurant. It is notable as a vantage point ideal for taking photos, all glass with a deck facing the mountains/waterfall. I'll post photos once I figure out where to do so (any suggestions?). A note on photo opps: during a stop, two tea picker ladies came up and told us "Photo!" and assumed smiling poses holding up tea leaves. We'd barely snapped a picture when they dropped the leaves and said "Photo money!" and as Glen was pulling out rupee notes, one lady literally stuck her hand over his and seized three 100 notes, and the pair beelined away. It's understandable, as Aruna told us that Western tourists are considered "millionaires" by the average person working in SL's tourist industry. But still - snatching is a bit much!
Anyhow, onto the Mackwoods tea factory. As many have noted in your TRs, the tour is informative and it's interesting to see the process from tea plant to cup. Free cuppa is served at the shop, where we bought a dozen or so boxes for friends/family of the factory brand.
Nuwara Eliya, called 'Little England,' combines a village aesthetic with golf courses and colonial clubhouses. Overcast and chilly at 16 degrees, it felt like a sudden transplant to another country. We asked for a radiator in our unheated room at Unique Cottages (a boutique hotel which was decent but none too wowing), and, after days of nearly constant road travel, crashed and napped until nightfall. You see again, how a rushed itinerary makes you miss out on what you're meant to be doing, e.g. hiking in the tea fields!
In the spirit of the town's history, we had a few G&Ts at the Hill Club, then dinner at their 'casual' restaurant since Glen didn't have a jacket and tie. They offered to loan him one, but it felt silly, as I was in a sweatshirt and jeans - but it was the gentleman who had to dress of course. The cold made us crave comfort food, and hot soup and creamy lasagna hit the spot (sorry to disappoint, our eating was less adventurous than we usually do).
That's it for NE. Please tell me - how much did we miss?!
