Skip Vientaine, a mistake?

Old May 26th, 2015, 03:55 PM
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Skip Vientaine, a mistake?

I will be in Bangkok for a few days and then I'd like to travel to Laos.

I'd originally planned of travelling to Vientiane by train or bus, spending some time there then going to Luang Prabang and flying back to Bangkok. I'm now debating if I should just fly to Luang Prabang and skip Vientiane entirely.

I'm a city person, visiting historic and cultural sights are my primarily focus when I travel. I'd like to hear from people who have been to Vientiane, is skipping the city a mistake?
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Old May 26th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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we loved it... it's like the 1950's..

good for a few days
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Old May 26th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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It depends on how much time you have. On my first trip to Laos I went from LP to Vientiane and loved it. It's a "real" place if you know what I mean. I went back to LP several years later and found it was wall-to-wall backpackers and, very much more a tourist town than my first visit. It's still nice enough, in fact nicer in some ways - new sidewalks, fancier places to stay, etc. but certainly different.

At this point, if I had to choose between them, I'd likely choose Vientiane. I especially liked the markets there and the setting on the river. I also think it's easier to find authentic food, not bent to tourist tastes. And I should say, I'm assuming it hasn't changed as much as LP has, being a much larger place with a considerably smaller ratio of tourists. LP has been taken over.
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Old May 26th, 2015, 09:54 PM
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We got the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok to Nong Khai.

Spent a few nights in Nong Khai. A lovely laid back frontier town which is sat right on the Meekong.

Tuk Tuk to the Friendship Bridge into Laos. Purchase visa.

Tuk Tuk to Vientiane. Three nights in Vientiane, which was interesting but long enough.

Bus to Vang Vieng (4 hours). Beautiful countryside. Three nights, hire pushbikes and got out of town.

Bus to Luang Prabang (6 hours). Lot of twists and turns through the hills.

A week in Luang Prabang.

Flew to Chiang Mai, but the slow boat to Huay Xai is the way to really get back into Thailand.
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Old May 26th, 2015, 09:59 PM
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I wouldn't skip Vientiane unless you're really pushed for time. Plus, I like the second class sleepers on the Thai trains.

Of course, I haven't been there since early 2011, and there were doing some major development along the river front, don't know how that turned out. They were also refurbishing my favorite wat, and I think they were destroying the atmosphere. But it should be less overrun than LP was.
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Old May 27th, 2015, 07:10 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I won't skip Vientiane and I'll stick to my original plan. Which in a nutshell is overnight train Bangkok to Vientiane, bus Vientiane to Luang Prabang, flight Luang Prabang to Bangkok.

How can I book tickets for the overnight train from Bangkok to Vientiane? I would like a single first class compartment. Once I arrive in Thailand my travel dates will not be flexible.

Is it easy to get a visa on arrival at the border, is it best to have USD for the visa or Thai Baht.

From Vientiane to Luang Prabang, how can I book a bus ticket, again my travel dates will not be flexible.

I've been looking at hotel choices for Vientiane online and many are poorly rated, any suggestions where to stay. I'm looking for a comfortable centrally located hotel with air conditioning and an ensuite room is a must.

Thanks.
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Old May 27th, 2015, 07:18 PM
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Train, buying tickets & visa info here:
http://www.seat61.com/Laos.htm#Bangkok%20to%20Vientiane
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Old May 27th, 2015, 07:49 PM
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Last time I was in Vientiane I stayed here:

http://hotelkhamvongsa.com/

Certainly not luxurious, but perfectly adequate.

You might find my report on that visit of some use:

https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...-in-vientiane/
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Old May 27th, 2015, 09:00 PM
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Another vote for it, we only had 2 days but that was fine. I liked it, sleepy and friendly.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 01:34 AM
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I don't think you can get a direct bus between Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

The bus takes 4 hours between Vientiane and Vang Vieng, and then 6-7 hours from Vang Vieng(V V) to Luang Prabang (LP).

The Vientiane to V V trip is straightforward, quite boring, until the last 30 minutes or so.

The V V to LP journey covers a lot of hills, plenty of winding roads, passing through villages, and is v.scenic. BUT, I wouldn't want to do any part of that journey in the dark.

In any case, a couple of nights in V V is very enjoyable, and the scenery magnificent.

Don't expect too much comfort on the buses either.

Plenty of tour operators in Vientiane selling bus tickets.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 01:45 AM
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<<<How can I book tickets for the overnight train from Bangkok to Vientiane? I would like a single first class compartment.>>>

You won't get a single first class compartment. But you could purchase both bunks.

There's a toilet/shower at either end of the carriage. One of the toilets will be the sawn-off type!

We found the first class sleeper quite comfortable, and slept reasonably well. If you're tall then it might be a little uncomfortable.

We were up and about early, so we could be first to user the shower, and also take in the scenery for the last hour or so between Udon Thani and Nong Khai. In the event, the train was an hour behind schedule, but that's not unusual.

We stayed in Nong Khai for a few nights before crossing the Friendship Bridge into Laos This place is excellent...

http://www.mutmee.com/
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Old May 28th, 2015, 05:36 AM
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Second class on Thai trains is fine. I prefer the lower berth, but either should be OK. The berths are parallel to the side of the train instead of perpendicular, and have curtains, so you have plenty of visual privacy. I have ridden several Thai night trains in second class and noise has never been a problem. But you do not want to spend a night in third class!

I thought VV was best avoided when I was there in 2002 and have chosen to fly Vientiane to LP since, but it is true that the VV to LP route is scenic..
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Old May 28th, 2015, 05:39 AM
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to me, trains and buses would be like hell.. I would fly.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 06:15 AM
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rhkkmk - no spirit of adventure!
For some of us hanging around airports is like hell.
You can't much of the passing countryside or what's going on from 20,000 feet.
I'm trying to imagine the beautiful photos on blogs of airport check-in queues the inside of Departure lounges and aircraft cabins!
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Old May 28th, 2015, 07:24 AM
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To each one's own, LL.

You might want to consider flying from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, depending on how much time you have.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 11:39 AM
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Kathie.
Make time!
You've flown all that way to get to the region, and then hop around at 20,000 feet to miss all the best bits.
Absolutely crazy!
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Old May 28th, 2015, 04:09 PM
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Hi planning travel,

I enjoyed my stay at Auberge Sala Inpeng, and others have as well, as it gets great reviews. The property consists of cute little cottages in a great location. It's not fancy, but it felt authentic.

I enjoyed Vientiane for 1 1/2 days of sightseeing. I probably could have used two full days. It is such a wonderful, cute city. I walked everywhere, but I met other people who hired a tuk tuk driver (pronounced "took took" in Laos) for the day for around $25. The riverfront area is especially nice at night, where ladies gather every night for a 6 PM aerobics class, complete with Korean pop music blasting. The ladies persuaded me to join their class, and it costs less than $1 per class.

I flew to LP next, which I find way too full of tourists, although beautiful. I took the first flight in the morning, thus giving me most of the day in LP to look around.

So, don't skip Vientiane--you will enjoy it, and the lack of large tour groups is an added bonus.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 08:07 PM
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Thank you for the replies.

I need to start organizing my trip down to a "T", I'd booked tickets using FF miles but got so busy with work that nothing else has been planned or booked. I'm travelling in October which I understand is the start of peak season.

I was thinking of two nights in Vientiane and three nights in Luang Prabang. Any advice on whether either city needs an extra day to cover the main sights. No plans to include VV on the trip.

I'm sure the scenery between the Vientiane and LP is stunning but I'm not convinced I'd be willing to take a 10 plus hour bus ride between the two places, sacrificing comfort is a no no.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 08:31 PM
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European backpackers like trains and buses, but I vote for flying between the two cities. Just book your flights directly online with the carrier. Take an early morning flight, or an evening flight so you don't waste a day.

As I mentioned, I would allow two full days to see Vientiane, and then I would use the remaining time for LP, so perhaps I would reverse it to three nights in Vientiane, and two in LP. Other people on this message board love LP, but I'm not sure if their visits have been recent. It's really 90% tourists there, and 10% locals. You can see the city and all the temples in one very long day, and then use the other day for a trip to the caves, or waterfalls, or both.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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I agree that the magic of LP has been considerably reduced by the influx of tourists. I first visited in 2002 when it was absolutely magical. I went back in 2004, and although there were a few worrying signs it was still great. When I returned in early 2011 I was disappointed, although I still felt that if a visitor had not seen it in earlier years, they would enjoy themselves. But that was four years ago...
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