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Seoul During The Harvest Moon Festival

I'll be in Seoul during their Thanksgiving, also known as Harvest Moon Festival, in September. One guide book says that Seoulites leave the city deserted to go rural and honor their ancestors, etc. Everything closes up. Another guide book says that this is a great time to see special ceremonies, and really observe the culture and people.

Does anyone know what to expect? Will I be able to visit palaces? Will the markets be open? I am not averse to wandering around a quiet city during a holiday, but as this holiday spans three days, it might make it difficult for me to see what I want to see.

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