Selecting Batik in Indonesia
#1
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Selecting Batik in Indonesia
We will be in Central Java including Yogjykarta and Solo. We have a guide and driver and they say they are NOT a commission firm based upon being licensed. I am not necessarily doubting them but some hints might help us. We want to be able first off to discern between real and fafe batik. Second what are the 3 things to look for on both cotton and silk batik to determine high and medium quality? If you have been to Central Jave in the past 12-18 months how much should we pay per yard for high and medium quality silk and cotton batik? We may want to purchase 15-20 yards and want to make a wise purchase.. She we ONLY buy from a major batik fix-priced store or local merchants?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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I'd buy directly from a batik workshop. Batik is made via a wax resist method, whereby wax is applied so that dye does not penetrate parts of the cloth, making a design. Each color requires another application of wax (and therefore another removal of wax). I can't remember ever seeing "fake batik" that is, cloth made via a printing process being passed off as batik. The highest quality batik is "tulis" (made entirely by hand). The least expensive batik will have designs that have been stamped on the fabric with metal or wooden stamps. There is also combination batik, where there are stamped designs that are enhanced by handwork. Do visit the workshop where they can show you the process.
The batik you want to buy is the batik you like. One of my favorite batik pieces is a combination piece. Large pieces of tulis batik are very expensive. Years ago, I looked at a length (about 3 meters) that was tulis, and at that time, it cost about $400. It would be much more now.
Note that batik is made in lengths, there will not be a bolt of batik where you can buy 15-20 yards.
The batik you want to buy is the batik you like. One of my favorite batik pieces is a combination piece. Large pieces of tulis batik are very expensive. Years ago, I looked at a length (about 3 meters) that was tulis, and at that time, it cost about $400. It would be much more now.
Note that batik is made in lengths, there will not be a bolt of batik where you can buy 15-20 yards.
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This article provides a good overview.
http://www.expat.or.id/info/batik.html
I’m a non-traditionalist when it comes to batik. I own dozens of sarongs – some were handmade and pricey, some were machine printed and cheap. I mostly buy based on designs that appeal to me.
Traditional batiks – and the most costly – are printed on cotton (also silk, but less so) and are entirely handmade. The design is evident on both sides of the cloth. They are almost always sarong length – 2.25 meters – and often have a border on one side. Printed fabric that can be purchased by the meter is most always machine made. The quality of the printing can be quite good, however; it’s just more uniform than the handmade variety. The cap (chop) version falls somewhere in the middle. It’s hard to identify this technique. The caps themselves are works of art.
When buying batik you need to think about the end use. I use batiks for beach cover-ups and for tablecloths. I also occasionally buy investment batiks that I keep folded up in a chest. You can buy beautifully carved batik hangers if you wish to display them. A decorator friend of mine recently bought several rolls of machine made batik which he used for slip covers. Evidently his batik chairs were a big hit in Boston. You can also buy batik that is pre-printed in garment pattern pieces – e.g., sleeves, collar -- for men’s shirts.
So how do you intend to use the batik: wear it, decorate with it, preserve it, hang it on the wall?
The shop Mendut near Borobudur has a wonderful collection of reproductions of antique patterns which run about $US200 per sarong. They also sell old batiks and less expensive new versions. In the Malioboro you can buy mass produced sarongs for about 90,000 Rupiah or $US10. Some of these can also be quite beautiful.
Basically, batik is everywhere in Java. The choices can be bewildering. My advice (same as Kathie's) would be buy what you like and don’t be unduly influenced by the technique. All versions are valid batiks -- just different applications for different end uses.
http://www.expat.or.id/info/batik.html
I’m a non-traditionalist when it comes to batik. I own dozens of sarongs – some were handmade and pricey, some were machine printed and cheap. I mostly buy based on designs that appeal to me.
Traditional batiks – and the most costly – are printed on cotton (also silk, but less so) and are entirely handmade. The design is evident on both sides of the cloth. They are almost always sarong length – 2.25 meters – and often have a border on one side. Printed fabric that can be purchased by the meter is most always machine made. The quality of the printing can be quite good, however; it’s just more uniform than the handmade variety. The cap (chop) version falls somewhere in the middle. It’s hard to identify this technique. The caps themselves are works of art.
When buying batik you need to think about the end use. I use batiks for beach cover-ups and for tablecloths. I also occasionally buy investment batiks that I keep folded up in a chest. You can buy beautifully carved batik hangers if you wish to display them. A decorator friend of mine recently bought several rolls of machine made batik which he used for slip covers. Evidently his batik chairs were a big hit in Boston. You can also buy batik that is pre-printed in garment pattern pieces – e.g., sleeves, collar -- for men’s shirts.
So how do you intend to use the batik: wear it, decorate with it, preserve it, hang it on the wall?
The shop Mendut near Borobudur has a wonderful collection of reproductions of antique patterns which run about $US200 per sarong. They also sell old batiks and less expensive new versions. In the Malioboro you can buy mass produced sarongs for about 90,000 Rupiah or $US10. Some of these can also be quite beautiful.
Basically, batik is everywhere in Java. The choices can be bewildering. My advice (same as Kathie's) would be buy what you like and don’t be unduly influenced by the technique. All versions are valid batiks -- just different applications for different end uses.
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Based upon what I am reading cotton batik is considered as fine as silk batik except that the cost may be 25%+/_ more because it is on silk. The uses intended are possibly for throw pillows so that cotton or silk may be an issue it seems unless one takes them off when people are around because they would show wear especially silk in less than a years time. Also, my wife might have a few barthing suit tops made and if we found an enceptionally attrative piece it might be a wall hannging.
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