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Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1

Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1

Old Jan 12th, 2017, 07:57 PM
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Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1

Please let me know what you think of my itinerary. I have my international tickets for an August 31 departure, and a September 24 return, but I have made no other commitments, not even the flight between Sri Lanka and India. I have not yet started looking for drivers, because I wanted to refine my itinerary first. If you have been to one country, but not the other, please join in, as I think we can jump back and forth quite successfully..

My interests include history, culture, nature, and hiking. I am not interested in beaches or sleeping on a houseboat. My Sri Lanka plan is atypical, as I wanted to spend a fair amount of time hiking, at the expense of visiting the hill country. I will see tea plantations in Munar, India, instead. I had some difficulty planning the India portion. For example, I could not find much information about public ferries in Kumarokam.

Thank you in advance for your help.


Thu Aug 31 - Leave LAX

Fri Sept 1 - Arrive Colombo (via HKG) at 11:15 PM,
Sleep in Negambo

Sat Sept 2 - 7 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Dambulla, see the caves
Sleep in Dambulla

Sun Sept 3 - Day trip to Mihintale and Anuradhapura
Sleep in Dambulla

Mon Sept 4 - Day trip to Polonnaruwa, and dusk game drive in Minnerya
Sleep in Dambulla

Tues Sept 5 - Day trip to Sigiriya Rock, and see wildlife in surrounding area with a guide, go to Ritigala if time permits
Sleep in Dambulla

Wed Sept 6 - Drive from Dambulla to Horton Plains National Park, short hike with a guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Thu Sept 7 - More hiking in Horton Plains with a guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Fri Sept 8 - Drive from Horton Plains to Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, short hike with a guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sat Sept 9 - More hiking in Sinharaja with a guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sun Sept 10 - 5 AM driving departure to Colombo for short city tour and lunch, 2:05 PM flight to Kochi, arrive 3:25 PM
Sleep In Kochi

Mon Sept 11 - See synagogue, walk around city, 5 PM Kerala Kathakali dance performance
Sleep in Kochi

Tues Sept 12 - Take pre-arranged taxi to Kumarokom, take public boat for sightseeing
Sleep in Kumarokom

Wed Sept 13 - More public boats in another direction?
Sleep in Kumarokom

Thu Sept 14 - 8 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Munar, stopping in Muvattupuzha en route
Sleep in Munar

Fri Sept 15 - Driving tour of Munar area
Sleep in Munar

Sat Sept 16 - Drive to Madurai, see sites en route? Which ones?
Sleep in Madurai

Sun Sept 17 - Driving tour of Madurai
Sleep in Madurai

Mon Sept 18 - Drive to Chettinad, see mansions en route
Sleep in Chettinad

Tues Sept 19 - Driving tour of more Chettinad mansions
Sleep in Chettinad

Wed Sept 20 - Drive to Tanjore, where to stop en route?
Sleep in Tanjore

Thu Sept 21 - City Tour of Tanjore - temples, library, gardens
Sleep in Tanjore

Fri Sept 22 - Drive to Mababalipuram, stopping at Puducherry en route, say goodbye to driver
Sleep in Mababalipuram

Sat Sept 23 - Walk around Mababalipurm, keep hotel for the day, pre arranged taxi to Chennai airport in the evening

Sun Sept 24 - 1:40 AM flight from Chennai to LAX, via Hong Kong
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Old Jan 12th, 2017, 09:35 PM
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Excited about your trip, but cannot help you much as I am also in planning stages.
My question is if you have obtained your visa for India. I am finding the website very complicated and wondering if you can share your experience.
How long did it take for you to get back your passport from the visa office.
Thanks for your help. Enjoy planning your trip.
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Old Jan 12th, 2017, 09:39 PM
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wow its sounds good hope you will enjoy your trip.
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Old Jan 12th, 2017, 10:36 PM
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ileen - It's too soon for me to apply for a visa, but it can be done easily online. I have been to India before, but not this region, so if you post your itinerary as well (in a new thread), I can perhaps help, as well as many other people here.

VishikhaYdav - Thank you. I'm sure there are some weaknesses in the itinerary. I'm hoping to hearing from others who have been to these places.
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 05:39 AM
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CaliforniaLady, we leave tomorrow for southern India and will see many of your destinations. I will be posting from the road. I'll make note of names and places for you, but am pretty hopeless inserting links.

ileen, I found the VFS global website a bit cumbersome,with no option to print a blank form and hand write the details, but I got there in the end. Our PPS we're back within a week (I'm Australian, so it might be different for you).
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 05:41 AM
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I didn't find a guide necessary for hiking at Horton, but I only did the hike to World's End.

I think the Chinese nets are worth seeing in Kochi. I also enjoyed the Anglican church and Catholic cathedral, but I was there for the Christmas services.

"Driving" tour of Madurai?

On the way to Tanjore? Trichy.

Looks like a good trip!
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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sartoric - I studied your posts when I planned my trip, and it helped quite a bit. I look forward to hearing about your trip. Thank you, and have a safe trip.

thursdays - It's great to hear from you, as you are one of the rare species who has been to both areas. I thought I needed a guide at Horton to point out wildlife, but we'll see. I appreciate your reassurance about Kochi, as I was thinking of skipping the city entirely. When I said "driving tour of Madurai" I meant that I have the driver anyway, so why not let him drive around the city and surrounding areas for the day. Thanks again, as always, for your great help.

And two more questions for everyone out there:

1. Do I need to pay the Sri Lanka driver for September 7 and 9, since I am basically hiking both days? If so, should I use him to take me to the trails, and maybe to dinner?

2. How about some suggestions for drivers? So far, I will contact BSL and Camlo Lanka for Sri Lanka, but how about India?
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 08:20 AM
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Cali, your Sri Lanka time is very well planned. You will get a driver quote for your whole trip, and your driver will be available to you for the whole trip. Since the price you pay is a combination of your driver's fees (including his food and lodging, often supplied for "free" by the places you are staying) and mileage, you won't be paying as much for those days since you won't be using up your mileage allocation. I think you will find the fee for a car and driver to be very reasonable.

We haven't yet been to Southern India - it's still on our list! This looks like a wonderful trip.
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 01:04 PM
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Thanks, Kathie. I actually used some of your previous posts for guidance for the Sri Lanka framework. It's such a nice idea to take day trips from Dambulla. That's great advice about the drivers. I should just get in contact with BSL, in order to get a price quote.

Now another question for everyone:

I generally like to take control of my trips, so I would prefer to make my own hotel bookings in both countries. Is that typical? If so, do I ask the hotels about housing and feeding the driver? What are the pros and cons of booking my own hotels, versus having the agency do it?
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 01:16 PM
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Often (but not always) a local agency can get you better prices at hotels than you can get yourself. And if the agency is booking both hotels and your driver, all the driver's accommodations will be taken care of. Also, with a local agency booking, you may well get a room upgrade.

Remember that if you do use an agency, they are working for you and want you to be happy. So even if you book through an agency, you are still in control. Also, I have heard some horror stories of people showing up to their hotel booked online to discover the hotel didn't have them on the list. If you book with a local agency that is very unlikely to happen and if it did your driver would be on the phone right away to resolve it.

But see what kind of price quotes you get.
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 01:26 PM
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Having the agency book the hotels doesn't mean you can't tell them which ones you want.

You'd need the driver to get to Horton in any case.
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 01:29 PM
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That makes sense, Kathie, thanks. I hate to keep pestering you, but here is my new question: Given that it makes sense to have the agency book the hotels, how proactive should I be in their selection? Should I google around, and give them a list in my price range, or should I ask them for ideas?
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 03:18 PM
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Bored at the airport, so I'll jump in. To answer your last question, do both. Give them your price range, the style of property you like and ask for suggestions. Also check out the popular booking websites. I like Booking.com. Then seek advice from from Fodorites who may be able to help your decision with some firsthand experience.
At least you have plenty of lead time !
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 03:52 PM
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I agree with sartoric. I always do both. I usually have particular hotels in mind, and if I don't I'll give the agency some guidelines. And I always check once they have given me a recommendation and give them feedback.
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 04:35 PM
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CalifLady, this is difficult I've just read Sartoric's itinerary, am now reading yours, and am consumed with jealousy...but in the nicest possible way.

In answer to your question about drivers/accommodations/agency: Agree with Kathie about use of and reasons for agency in India. However, the drivers, afaik, make their sleeping arrangements. They get a rupees allowance from their employer, toward their overnight accommodations' price. Very few hotels have specific dorms for drivers (I've been to a few, but they're usually the larger resort places.) IF you are traveling via Innova (SUV), it is very common--in fact, the norm-- for the driver to sleep in the back of the SUV. They can then save their sleeping allowance money (which is totally fine with the agencies--it's common knowledge) land allows them to keep an eye overnight on the car and your valuables. That drivers sleep in the car, yet are refreshed, immaculate, with neatly pressed uniform each morning, is still a source of wonder and admiration (in addition to knowing my life is in their hands on the roads there!)

Re your itinerary, I don't know Sri Lanka (waiting for your report to entice me!) so this comment pertains to end of itinerary. Consider instead doing an overnight in Pondicherry on September 22. Then, the next day, drive up to "Mahabs" and tour the famous carvings there. This will still leave sufficient time to get to MAA for your outbound flight at 1:40 am on Sept 24. Here's my reasoning, based not so much on my research, as stories over the years from friends: Pondy is unique (the French influence) and a great place for a walk through the town, beach promenade, shopping, eating, etc. Mahaballipuram of course is a town as well, with local restaurants , and hotels of all sorts (resorts as well as local) near the beach but mainly, you'll (I assume) be there to see the famous relief carvings. Again, this is based on numerous comments from friends whom I trust...NOT my personal experience.
I believe Dgunbug recently did this---stopping overnight in Pondicherry, then driving via a few hours' touring Mahaballipuram to the airport. Hopefully, she'll see this, or it might be on her trip report.
Tell me about Muvattupuzha --hadnt heard of it, and am always up to learn more!!
Kumarokom area is relativley (for India) quiet and peaceful. There are homestays along the backwaters near there, or actual resorts on the lake. The local public ferry goes from one side of Vembanad lake to the other (the Alleppey side). Sounds like great way to spend the day, and a great alternative to a houseboat. I think the ferry goes from Kottayam town (my first ever, and still fav Fabindia is there you're into set -price clothes shopping!).
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Old Jan 13th, 2017, 09:09 PM
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Thank you sartoric and Kathie for your helpful advice about hotel bookings. It's always better to be proactive, isn't it?

CaliNurse - I was hoping to hear from you, since you have traveled extensively in South India. I will take your advice about spending the last night in Pondicherry, as it sounds like a smoother trip to keep my driver until the end. My last day, then, will involve some schlepping (from Pondicherry to Mahabs to the airport), but by then I will hopefully trust my driver to pace the day. I remember you saying that you have used Panorama India for your drivers, is that correct? I'll have to contact them first. Regarding Muvattupuzha, I saw it on a blog, and it looked interesting, but if you have never heard of it, then it must be a bust. Where would you stop instead? Also, another question: Is there enough to keep me busy in Kumarokom for 1 3/4 days? Are there two ferries that go in different directions, and if not, what else is there to do there?

Now, at the risk of becoming even more annoying, here's a question for everyone about drivers:

Assuming that I will use BSL for Sri Lanka, and Panorama India for India, what type of payment schedule do they want? Do you pay a certain percentage at a set time? Using a company to this large an extent is quite new to me. Thanks.
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Old Jan 14th, 2017, 06:40 AM
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As best I remember I paid a deposit to BSL, and the remainder in Negombo at the start of the trip. That info should be on their website, along with their list of recommended hotels.
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Old Jan 14th, 2017, 07:37 AM
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Hi California Lady,

I can't help you with India either, but when we visited SL a few years ago we stayed in Dambulla and did day trips, so i think I'm qualified to comment on that.

My main concern would be the order of your day trips - you will have had a long journey the day before from Negombo - about 4 hours, and you are following that with a trip to Anuradhapura, which is the furthest away of the places you want to visit from there.

personally I would go to Sigiriya Rock, the first day, [a very easy drive] Anuradhapura the second, and Polonnaruwa, the third. That way your longest drive falls on the middle day so you should be less tired for that and for the day on which you are moving on.

BTW the driving times on google maps are very approximate - many roads are full of potholes or worse and your fellow road users are extraordinary.

Also beware of game drives - they can degenerate into every jeep in the neighbourhood chasing after some poor unfortunate animal which is both dangerous for the animal and frustrating for the tourist. We were also present when some jeep drivers put themselves between a herd of elephants and the water they wanted to get to and it frankly wasn't safe.

All that said SL is a wonderful place and I'd love to go back.

where are you staying in Dambulla?
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Old Jan 14th, 2017, 07:45 PM
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thursdays - I can see the hotels on the BSL website, but not the payment schedule. I'll see what they say about payments, and then I can always confirm in the Fodor's forum. I guess it's time to get trip insurance. My son just used World Nomads for travel insurance. Thanks, as always, for your advice.

annhig - I did indeed look at your thread when sketching out my itinerary. What you are saying about the order of day trips from Dambulla makes sense, and I will switch it accordingly. Based on what you said about game drives, I may cut the one in Minnerya. I believe Kathie went on one, but that was some years ago. When I researched the viewing of elephant herds there, I got the impression that they were very easy to spot, especially in September, but I could be wrong. So you actually went on a game drive in Sri Lanka, but did not find the experience pleasant? Thank you.

Here's the updated itinerary--what do you think?

Thu Aug 31 - Leave LAX

Fri Sept 1 - Arrive Colombo (via HKG) at 11:15 PM,
Sleep in Colombo

Sat Sept 2 - 7 AM driver pick up (for the next nine days), go to Dambulla, see the caves
Sleep in Dambulla

Sun Sept 3 - Day trip to Sigiriya Rock, and see wildlife in surrounding area with a guide, go to Ritigala if time permits
Sleep in Dambulla

Mon Sept 4 - Day trip to Mihintale and Anuradhapura
Sleep in Dambulla

Tues Sept 5 - Day trip to Polonnaruwa, and possible dusk game drive in Minnerya (or substitue other activity)
Sleep in Dambulla

Wed Sept 6 - Drive from Dambulla to Horton Plains National Park, short hike with nature guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Thu Sept 7 - More hiking in Horton Plains with nature guide
Sleep in Ohiya

Fri Sept 8 - Drive from Horton Plains to Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, short hike with nature guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sat Sept 9 - More hiking in Sinharaja with nature guide
Sleep in Deniyaya

Sun Sept 10 - 5 AM departure to Colombo for short tour and lunch, 2:05 PM flight to Kochi, arrive 3:25 PM
Sleep In Kochi

Mon Sept 11 - See synagogue, walk around city, 5 PM Kerala Kathakali dance performance
Sleep in Kochi

Tues Sept 12 - Take pre-arranged taxi to Kumarokom, take public boat for sightseeing
Sleep in Kumarokom

Wed Sept 13 - More public boats in another direction, what else?
Sleep in Kumarokom

Thu Sept 14 - 8 AM driver pick up (for the next ten days), go to Munar, where to stop en route?
Sleep in Munar

Fri Sept 15 - Driving tour of Munar area
Sleep in Munar

Sat Sept 16 - Drive to Madurai, see sites en route? Which ones?
Sleep in Madurai

Sun Sept 17 - City tour of Madurai
Sleep in Madurai

Mon Sept 18 - Drive to Chettinad, see mansions en route
Sleep in Chettinad

Tues Sept 19 - Driving tour of more Chettinad mansions
Sleep in Chettinad

Wed Sept 20 - Drive to Tanjore, stop in Trichy en route
Sleep in Tanjore

Thu Sept 21 - City Tour of Tanjore - temples, library, gardens
Sleep in Tanjore

Fri Sept 22 - Drive to Pondicherry, city tour
Sleep in Pondicherry

Sat Sept 23 - Drive to Mababalipurm, see the cave temples, drive to Chennai airport in the evening

Sun Sept 24 - 1:40 AM flight from Chennai to LAX, via Hong Kong
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Old Jan 14th, 2017, 09:55 PM
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Forgive another wordy reply, California Lady!!

Re: Muvattupuzha ...just because I (or anyone else) hasn't heard of it, doesn't mean it's not worth a stop!! I love learning about new places! You've read something that appeals, which counts for a lot. However, I understand that we travelers (like me!) on rare and brief and likely once-only trips to a destination, usually prefer a "known entity."

Also, while you are not asking for accommodation recommendations, mentioning some places now partly answers your questions about the itinerary.

Thank you--I'm happy to help. However,in the name of not wanting to disappoint, I don't know if my experience is necessarily more extensive. While I've twice been to part of Southern India (Kerala, northern Tamil Nadu, small part of Karnataka) these were 2.5-3 week trips each, but there are other Fodorites who I think traveled as long or longer there, including JulieS, Thursdaysd, and others going back a few yrs. RJE and dgunbug, both mention interesting stopping points along your route, especially once you head out of Munnar toward Madurai. For ex, info already done, do Fodors or google word search for Fodors posts on Pondicherry, or Kumarokom, etc There are some, for exmple with photos, from Lata, among many others.

I am fortunate to have good friends and coworkers who have visited often, or live in the South of India. Much of my info comes from them. I try to be totally clear when it is my personal experience vs what I hear from people I trust.

Ok--some ideas to ponder. For breaking the journey between Kumarokom area, and Munnar, consider this place. It is on my "definitely" list for next trip to Kerala: http://dewalokam.in If checking the map nearest village is Karimannoor, the larger town is Thodopuzha. (Incidentally, when you see that "puzha" at end of word, it sounds more like "purra" when pronounced.)

JulieS stayed here and wasnt too enthused However, a dear friend
(currently in Mumbai on trip #11 to India--who's traveled far, wide, and long in the country, said Dewalokam is fantastic. It is not inexpensive, but all meals are included. She said it's not a homestay, more like a small farmstead hotel. Read reviews on tripadvisor etc and see what you think. You don't say if you are traveling solo on this trip, Cali Lady. My friend did (as do I quite often) and she loved the warmth/welcome camaraderie of the family who owns it, and the other guests. If that doesnt appeal, a couple yrs ago I noted this small riverside homestay in the area http://tabernaclehomestay.com which likewise is not cheap=but which includes all meals. Accommodation prices in general, you'll find are higher than in the north /rajasthan areas (where i think you have been?) . Your prices might be better as you're going in "low" season.

Kumarokom area--we(daughter and I) stayed on that side of Vembanad Lake for three nights , and weren't bored for a second. Just watching life go by on the water outside the cottage...eating four fabulous meals all day ... boat trip one day, a car trip to Kottayam town and a visit at Coconut Lagoon Hotel another day...this is an area to kick back and enjoy life on the water, Kerala style. I love your idea of the public ferry!!!! As for time, it's not a quick ride---those local ferries make lots of stops, and this is your chance to see local life on the backwaters too.
We stayed the same said of the lake as Kumarokom, but north, closer to Vaikom, in a fantastic "farmstay" which was our big splurge but worth every rupee. http://philipkuttysfarm.com
There are many smaller/less $ homestays all through the backwaters. Note too that the travel agent i use and trust, thinks Kumarokom is not as interesting a side of Vembanad Lake/backwaters as is the Alleppey (Alapuzha) side.

Drivers: I've done it both ways--booking via the accommodation I'm at, and going with the company driver as part of the entire prebooked trip (including lodging).
I don't know if Indianpanorama (www.Indianpanorama.in) does "driver only" and if so, whether it is more or less $ than booking individually on an "as you go" basis. Admittedly, the older I get, the more "seamless" (as if that is even 100% possible in India!!) I want the journey to be--prearranged and trustworthy before and during the trip. You know the mantra--"that is just me" ! If you want to contact them, let me know, and i'll give you the best email to reach the person who helps me.

Note that 9/21, your second day in Tanjore, is the first day (of nine) of Navratri, a major Hindu Festival.
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