barefootbeach

We were planning to include two nights in Sapa as part of our month-long journey to SE Asia in mid-April 2010, and stay at the Victoria Sapa, taking their train. However, reading reviews on Trip Advisor about both the hotel and train quality is making me rethink this. It sounds like it's a real pain to get there and there is no where great to stay.

Does anyone think that the scenic beauty of the area makes it worth putting up with expensive, sub-par accommodations? Also, we were going to go over the weekend to see the Sat. market in Sapa, but maybe this isn't worth it and it would be better to go mid-week (if at all) when it's quieter.

Appreciate your insights!

kerouac

Sapa is really different from the rest of Vietnam that I have seen (although I have not yet been in the other mountain areas like around Dien Bien Phu). I took a 2-day tour there out of Hanoi and it only cost something like $30, so we probably do not have the same comfort level.

The market was not of great interest to me although it is kind of amusing to have old grandmothers trying to get you to buy balls of opium. What I really found fascinating, though, was the fact that a lot of the Hmong and other ethnic minorities in Sapa do not speak Vietnamese, but they have had a lot of contact with tourists, so when Vietnamese tourists come from Hanoi to visit (since it is extremely exotic for them, too) -- they have to speak English to each other!

Craig

We visited Sapa as part of a 12-day stay in northern Vietnam last April. If you only plan to visit the town, then two nights (plus 2 nights on the train) is plenty. However, if you want to visit some of the less touristed villages and take in the astounding beauty of the area, you probably need 3 nights (plus 2 nights on the train). We stayed 3 nights at the Topas Ecolodge. While it was not a perfect experience, I would stay there again if I had to return to Sapa. You can read about the Ecolodge as well as the train ride up and back in my trip report (click on my name). I also posted a review on TA (CraigCT2) on April 24,2009. We did not visit the Saturday market in Sapa but we did take a trip out to Can Cau for its Saturday market which was full of photo opportunities. I see that you did some serious hiking in Peru - the best way to see the area surrounding Sapa is on foot and Topas Ecolodge is ideally situated for this.

Hopefully my trip report will help with the answers to your questions. I am not sure whether your 2 nights is in addition to two nights on the train though. If it is not, then I would definitely skip Sapa entirely.

kerouac

I went for a trek which nearly did me in, but I wouldn't have traded it for anything in the world.

barefootbeach

Thanks Kerouac and Craig. I did read your excellent trip report Craig but I thought you said you wouldn't stay at Ecolodge again. I didn't do real strenous hiking in Peru...just the usual...so I'm not up for an all day hike. I planned on 2 nights in Sapa in addition to the 2 nights on the train...since we get all day on the return day. I am more interested in the mountain beauty than the market...so did want a hotel with a view, too.

Craig

Okay, I did say that if I were to do it again I would stay at the Victoria really only because I did not stay there this time (and it is supposedly the "best place in town"). However, if I was to make a recommendation for a first-time stay, I think the Ecolodge makes the most sense, especially if you are more interested in the mountain beauty than the market. You can "do" Sapa when you get there and on the way back - there will be plenty of time on the days after you arrive and before you depart on the overnight train.

Just do an easy hike from the Ecolodge - they'll do whatever you want - try to arrange in advance though as your guide will probably have to come there from Sapa. With just two nights, you probably won't be as bored as we were with the food. Believe me, the setting is incredible and the views should be good when you are there in April.

crellston

We travelled up to Sapa on the Victoria train when we travelled teh Dien Bien Phu loop and stayed at the Victoria hotel. The Victoria is apparently the best place in Sapa but don't hold your breath for anyhing special, it is just average and definitely not worth the money. The train trip was fine but at night you obviously don't get to see anything. Worth noting that ther are several different companies offering carriages on the same train at almost similar standards but lower prices.

The scenery is spectacular and the usual hike is about a day (approx 8-10 mile) around the valley and rice terraces. We went mid week and from what I have heard it is the best time if you want to avoid masses of other tourists at the weekend. The scenery is spectacular but there are other choices such as Mai Chau valley (much closer to Ha noi and the Ba Be lakes (about 7 hours drive form Ha noi) are really beautiful but that requires a very basic homestay rather than a comfortable hotel.
A ew photos of Sapa and Mai Chau;

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...0853/tpod.html

barefootbeach

Crellston, your photos show off the mountain scenery well, and I loved the ones of the little girl. I will look into Mai Chau valley but i wouldn't be comfortable in a homestay. Thanks to you and Craig for your comments.

shelleyk

There is a fairly new and modern hotel in Mai Chau called Mai Chau Lodge. It looks ok as an alternative to a homestay.

kerouac

Anyway, I wouldn't bother with the restaurant that sells strange meats like bear and beaver. One does not eat well in Sapa in any case, and it is important to know that before going. Not really a problem when you are only there for a few days.

rhkkmk

great pics crell...

musicgal

In 2001, I hired a driver and guide and travelled from Hanoi to Sapa. At the time the Victoria hotel was the very best that they had. The most interesting thing that we did during that trip was a two day hike down the mountain through the rice fields and into one of the very small villages. We paid a very small fee and spent the night in one of the Hamong villagers homes with our guide from Green Bamboo travel agency in Hanoi (His name was Mr. Twon-he was about 19 at the time and an encyclopedia of knowledge-not to mention his English was great. We had to carry in our own water for two days. It was definitely one of the most amazing travel experiences--very few people were visiting SAPA in 2001--so at the time it was a very unique experience. Not sure how much SAPA has changed over the past 8 years.

Femi

Sapa was my favorite part of my visit to Vietnam. I was quite pleased with both the Victoria hotel and train, you just have to know what to expect and adjust accordingly. I didn't really care for Bac Ha, the town or the market, but enjoyed Can Cau immensely.

barefootbeach

Thanks for weighing in on how much you liked Sapa. I think I still would stay at the Victoria and take their train. Good to hear about Bac Ha, because I thought I read somewhere that that was the best market.