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Safari in India to Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Corbett; plus Delhi & Agra

Safari in India to Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Corbett; plus Delhi & Agra

Old May 5th, 2011, 07:55 PM
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Safari in India to Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Corbett; plus Delhi & Agra

In preparing for my first trip to India, I wanted to know about some of the past kings, such as the famous Ashoka who was transformed through Buddhism from a ruthlessness ruler to one of great virtue. In honor of this king, the Ashoka Chakra wheel graces the center of the Indian flag . And of course I learned about Shah Jahan, “King of the World,” who built the Taj Mahal in memory of his wife who died in childbirth with their 14th child.

What I didn’t know was that I’d be treated like a king (queen in my case) during my stay by Wild World India, the Delhi-based travel company I used.

Both Vikram, the owner of the company, and Guarav, an associate, joined me for portions of the trip. At times I had an entourage that made me feel like Jo-Lo, minus the Gigli credits and “Most Beautiful Woman in the World” title. Guarav also accompanied me on the train to Agra and provided me luck in Bandhavgarh with his presence. My last hours in India were spent in his home meeting his lovely family and enjoying one of the best meals I had in India, compliments of his wife. Her special kidney beans were so renowned that a nephew came over specifically for them, smart lad!

<orange>I</orange>t<orange>i</orange>n<orange>e</orange>r<orange>a</orange>r<orange>y</orange>

Designed to optimize the chance of seeing a couple of tigers, along with other Indian wildlife, plus the Taj Mahal, this trip exceeded my expectations.

Summary:
1 nt Delhi day of Delhi sightseeing and overnight train
4 nts Kisli section of Kanha National Park
2 nts Mukki section of Kanha National Park
4 nts Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve
1 nt Delhi, after overnight train to Agra to see Taj Mahal and Agra Fort
2 nts Corbett National Park-Biranji section
2 nts Corbett National Park-Dhikala section
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Old May 5th, 2011, 07:57 PM
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I've been waiting for this!
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:03 PM
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Day by day:
26 Mar, 11/Sat: Direct 14-ish hour American Airlines flight from O’Hare to Delhi

27 Mar, 11/ Sun: Arrive Delhi
Ahuja Residency –
http://www.ahujaresidency.com/gh_defencecolony.html

28 Mar, 11/ Mon: Day tour of Dehli, Delhi rail station Hazrat Nizamuddin to Jabalpur by overnight train (depart 1525, arrive 0715)

29 Mar, 11/ Tue: Arrive Jabalpur then by road 4 hours to Kanha (Kisli) in time for afternoon drive
Tuli Tiger Resort – http://www.tulihotels.com/tuli-tiger-resortkanha.html
30 Mar to 01 Apr, 11/ Wed to Fri: Kanha National Park (Kanha Kisli)

02 & 03 Apr, 11/ Sat & Sun: Kanha National Park, morning drive in Kisli, afternoon game drive and transfer to Mukki (Mukki)
Royal Tiger Resort – www.royaltiger.com

04 Apr, 11/ Mon: Morning drive in Mukki, Kanha. Drive 5.5 hours to Bandhavgarh National Park by road
Nature Heritage Resort – http://www.natureheritageresort.com
05 to 07 Apr, 11/ Tue to Thu: Bandhavgarh National Park

08 Apr, 11/ Fri Morning drive in Bandhavgarh. Drive 2 hours to Katni rail station and catch overnight train to Agra (depart 1710; arrive 0415)

09 Apr, 11/ Sat: Arrive Agra in early morning with day room at Mansingh Palace, visit Taj Mahal & Agra Fort – Drive to 4.75 hours to Delhi for overnight
Ahuja Residency

10 Apr, 11/ Sun: Delhi to Corbett by road, 7.25 hours, with afternoon bird walk in Biranji zone
Camp Forktail Creek – www.campforktailcreek.com
11 Apr, 11/ Mon: Corbett (Bijrani zone)

12 & 13 Apr, 11/ Tue & Wed: Corbett Morning game drive between Biranji and Dhikala (Dhikala zone)
Dhikala Forest Rest House -
http://www.corbett-national-park.com...n-corbett.html

14 Apr, 11/ Thu: Morning drive in Dhikala, Corbett to Delhi by road, 8 hours, and depart for onward destination -

15 Apr, 11/Fri: Fly back to O’Hare through Brussels, arriving midday. A direct flight AA would again have been possible.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:15 PM
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Femi, you snuck in there! Thank you for waiting.


<orange>M</orange>y <orange>P</orange>l<orange>a</orange>n<orange>n</orange>i<orange>n</orange>g <orange>T</orange>h<orange>r</orange>e<orange>a</orange>d
Lots of detailed advice was given to me here:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...nch-tadoba.cfm

IndiaMike.com was a helpful site also.


<orange>T</orange>i<orange>m</orange>i<orange>n</orange>g
The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays.

For the best chance to see tigers or other wildlife, March or later is better due to limited water sources forcing animals congregate in smaller areas. I was told repeatedly that into May it gets too hot. But that is when a lot of the professional photographers come.

Indians have told me that it is great viewing into June, if you can stand it. Most of the parks close when the monsoons start in June. If the monsoons come early, then the parks close in May.

Controlled burns that are conducted in the parks generally start in April and continue into May. These make some parts inaccessible and it can be hot and uncomfortable driving when flames are shooting up on either side of the road, but I did not find the burning, which was done sparingly, to be a big distraction.

February is best to see the most birds. March and April have the advantage of resident birds, some winter hangers-on and early arrivals for summer.

The Flame of the Forest tree with its orangey flowers, blooms in March and still has blossoms in April.

Toward the end of April and into May, the light gets harsher for photography but the light is softer in March.

Some photographers prefer November because the backdrop is very green and contrasts nicely with the orange tiger, whereas dry orange leaves (March-June) blend in with the tiger. But the thick vegetation makes it harder to see animals in November. November is also when the famous camel fair takes place.

The first couple weeks after the parks open up again in Sept or Oct, the animals are more skittish.

As you get into April, foreign tourism drops off due to heat and the majority of the park guests are Indian.

Avoid national holidays to reduce crowds. Holi is a big one in March. On the other hand, you may want to visit during Holi to partake in the unique Festival of Colors. So it may be a tradeoff of avoiding crowds vs. enjoying the festival experiences. Some links to festivals:
http://www.worldtravelguide.net/coun...ent/India.html
http://schooladmissionindia.com/list...2009-2010.html

Avoid school holidays. That is harder to figure out. Apparently, earlier in March is usually better to avoid them.

Between Christmas and New Years and during Holi are the busiest times in the parks.

Check out Cokesmith’s report to even further flung destinations than I went, also with Wild World India. He went Dec-Jan, during a busier time when thicker vegetation makes seeing the forest inhabitants tougher. But none of that seemed to hinder his trip one bit when looking at the quality and diversity of photos.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...rip-report.cfm

To have the best chance to see elephants in Corbett, go March through May.

Avoid going to the parks on weekends if possible. I did notice additional people in the more remote Mukki section of Kanha on Sunday compared to Monday. In Bandhavgarh, limits are imposed every day of the week so that no more than 10-11 visitor vehicles are allowed on each of three open tracks in the Tala zone, for a total of 32 vehicles. While permits may be harder to get on a weekend than a weekday due to higher demand, the crowds cannot soar out of control with the limits. During the weekdays I was in Bandhavgarh in the popular Tala zone, I noted some days the limit was reached and some days not. So if planning way ahead in time to secure permits, a weekend in Bandhavgarh would be ok.

As of April 1 this year, the Madyha Pradesh parks (including Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Pench, Panna, Sanjay to name a few) are closed on Wednesday evening.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:17 PM
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The parks are always closed at night, but the afternoon drives are cancelled on Wednesdays.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:30 PM
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<orange>Visa, </orange> packing, <orange>flight</orange>
When I was investigating Indian visa requirements for US citizens, several sites stated in bold: Do not purchase airline tickets before obtaining a visa. That is a potent warning and one I could not heed since I had already bought my tickets and made a deposit on the trip when I started investigating visas.

I used Travisa Outsourcing in Chicago to obtain my visa and went there in person. To maximize confusion, there are two businesses in Chicago named Travisa Outsourcing and they are only several blocks apart. One does the Indian visas and the other does something else entirely.

The Travisa Outsourcing rules, regardless of the location, are strict and I observed first hand that they are enforced. By appointment only, no purse, no snacks, no brief case, no backpack, no folder, no books/magazines to read while waiting. All visa/passport materials in a clear plastic bag. No waiting outside the office door before business hours or you will be shoed away. You must bring your receipt back for your second visit when the visa is picked up. One-day service is possible but not guaranteed and was suspended when I went so I had to return a few days later.

There was a direct, non-stop American Airlines flight from Chicago to Delhi that took around 14 hours. Very convenient, many current in-flight entertainment options (and not the kind described in the next paragraph), lots of food served, and it was not full. A return non-stop option was available too, but I opted to go through Brussels for savings.

Moments after boarding this AA flight to Delhi I made my way to the restroom to ready myself for the long flight in my window seat. When I opened the door showing green/unoccupied, to my surprise, there was a gentlemen standing there in the midst of business. I quickly shut the door and the startled look on my face prompted the flight attendant to console me with, “Don’t worry; that’s our in-flight entertainment.”

The carry-on rules posted on the AA website had an exception for flights to India--only one carry-on bag, not a purse/laptop plus a carry-on. I followed those rules which meant I had to check a bag, so I brought a roomy suitcase and didn’t worry about trying to cram everything into my carryon. That meant I could bring not only the local delicacy of dried cranberries for gifts but some locally made jellies and jams as well.

I should have used the extra space to bring my monopod, in addition to my home-made bean bag. Not packing it was a mistake. The monopod omission was quickly rectified by my first naturalist, Rajan, who kindly offered me the use of his--not only while he was guiding me, but throughout the trip. I gave Rajan’s monopod back to Wild World India at the end of my trip. In the open Gypsys, especially if it is a private vehicle, a monopod is worthwhile. Thank you Rajan! In keeping with the “treated like royalty” theme, it was as if I had been bestowed with my monopod scepter upon commencing my reign. (Since I mentioned bean bags, I’ll also mention Wild World India would provide them for you if you ask.)

Lots of people carried two items onto the airplane, despite the “one carry-on only” rule posted on the American Airlines website and at both check-in and boarding. The carry-on rules may have been relaxed though, because the plane was only about 80% full on the way over and only slightly more crowded on the way back.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:44 PM
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<orange>How </orange>Hot<orange>?</orange> &<orange> What</orange> to <orange>Wear</orange>
Here's Kanha weather. Bandhavgarh was the same and Corbett just a shade cooler.

http://www.meoweather.com/history/In...667/Kanha.html

I had feared the heat would be accompanied by humidity, similar to what I had experienced in other parts of Asia as early in the year as June. To help combat the dreaded humidity, I made sure all my clothes were 100% cotton. In retrospect such extremes in fabric were not needed. March-April, not being summer yet, is pre-humidity, so morning and afternoon outings were pleasant and midday temps of a dry 85-90 Fahrenheit heat were tolerable back at the lodge.

Most of my accommodations, except those in Corbett, were air conditioned, but not once did I turn it on. Some also had a big fan and water contraption, which also went unused. Occasionally I did enjoy the breeze of the ceiling fan. The materials used in construction of these lodgings kept them cool in the daytime and warm enough during the night. In fact, at Nature Heritage in Bandhavgarh it could be baking outside in the afternoon sun, but inside it was naturally cool enough that I needed a long-sleeved shirt!

Very similar to dry season East and Southern Africa, early mornings could be brisk, especially zipping along at 5:45 am in an open Gypsy, so sometimes I wore a wool headband and even gloves. Not many people did this. Some mornings I might have been the only one, which made me laugh because I knew I had endured winters far colder than any of the Indian drivers or naturalists around me. However this past winter in India, temperatures apparently dropped into the negatives (Centigrade.) The hint of brown, dead leaves mixed in with the vibrant green foliage in the forests of Sal trees was testament to the harshness of the previous winter that was still a topic of conversation in April.

As to clothing color, I saw signs posted at park entrances and brochures in hotels requesting neutral shades be worn in the parks. Beige, brown, green, and gray were suggested. I was mostly beige and saw lots of forest green, along with every other shade in the color wheel. Unlike some African countries that ban camouflage, it seems to be ok in India and I saw a variety of camouflage.

I had wondered about trousers, zipoffs, and/or capris, to balance airflow and comfort with modesty and insect protection. I saw no shorts on women but lots of capris, including mine. While I did encounter mosquitoes in the evening and in enclosed spaces, they were not a problem in the Gypsys and did not devour my ankles or shins that were exposed in the capris.

I wore capris and sandals in the afternoons only, preferring the warmer shoes and trousers for the chilly mornings.

At the lodges, there were not a lot of mosquitoes, but there usually was at least one flying bug that whined loudly as it whirred past my ear in the night. I used a technique that has allowed me to sleep soundly at home when tormented by an annoying mosquito or similar throughout the night.. I put a buttoned-up blouse over my head but left one of the buttons undone where my nose and mouth were, to breathe. The rest of me was under the covers. So nothing was exposed to any insect looking for a bite. It worked in India for a peaceful night’s rest, just like in Wisconsin where we joke that the state bird is a mosquito. At Tuli Tiger, I could tell by the hook in the middle of the ceiling that a mosquito net was an option so I requested one.

I read after returning home that a fanny pack/bum bag at the Taj Mahal is a gauche accessory marking one as an obvious tourist. My Taj photos show I not only wore a small fanny pack/bum bag but a larger camera bag strapped around my waist. However, I maintained custody of those items buckled to my body, in contrast to a water bottle which became a casualty of inattention to my possessions while in the presence of such an awe inspiring architectural marvel.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 08:48 PM
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<orange>Other </orange>Companies<orange> Consulted</orange>
I chose Wild World India and am very happy with the results. There were also some other companies I dealt with that provided helpful advice and itineraries and that were professional in their correspondence with me. Wildlife Trails in the UK was very responsive with lots of info. Legends and Palaces had some great insights and recommendations and VP Singh, gave additional helpful advice on Fodors.


<orange>Some</orange> Parks <orange>I</orange> Didn’t <orange>Choose</orange>
As a solo traveler who wanted a private vehicle, Ranthambore did not fit well because private vehicles are more expensive in Rathambore than other places and not guaranteed to be private. Going by cantor (large truck) is an option, though. If you were a group or even a couple, then Rathambore would work better for your own vehicle. If I ever do a group trip to India, I’ll look for Rathambore in the itinerary.

I think Pench and Tadoba would be great, but I wanted to maximize my chances of seeing a tiger and that is the only reason I did not seek out these less crowded parks. Maybe another time.

Kaziringa has elephants and the one-horned rhinos, but it takes more time and effort to get way over to the northeast, whereas Corbett (which I did choose) is more accessible for elephants, but Corbett does not have one-horned rhinos.

I did not include any of the southern reserves such as Kabini, Nagarhole and Bandipur in the state of Karnataka, but I bet these will become much more publicized and popular due to the recent tiger census which shows Karnataka has the most tigers in India.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 09:00 PM
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<orange>R</orange>u<orange>p</orange>e<orange>e</orange>s/<orange>T</orange>i<orange>p</orange>s
For tips and other transactions, rupees are preferred, though I found US dollars were accepted in a pinch. I changed money at the airport, where I was able to request bills as small as 100 rupees. I used ATMs in Jabalpur and Mandla. It was the first time I ever had an audience of cows overseeing my ATM transaction. Denominations from ATMs varied and weren’t necessarily small. There were no opportunities to change money at the lodges where I stayed, nor were the lodges able to change large denominations of rupees into smaller bills.

Suggested tipping by Wild World India, provided upon my request:
“Tips for accompanying guides at the park - INR 500 or USD 10 per drive, drivers at the park - INR 200 or USD 4 per drive. Tips at hotels can be a consolidated INR 1000 or USD 20 at each lodge. Drivers may be tipped INR 500 or USD 3 per transfer at the city. Mahouts at the parks may be tipped INR 200 or USD 4 per elephant ride. All other tips to bell boys etc. may by INR 50 or USD 1.”

(I had almost no luck in getting 50s)

When I went last for the elephant ride and got to a much longer outing, I increased the suggested tip.

Since I was alone, sometimes a second naturalist would join us. I appreciated their added expertise and eyes and gave them 100 rupees per outing.

All lodgings had a tip box for consolidation except Corbett. At Forktail Creek in Corbett I gave the tip to the resident naturalist. At Corbett’s Dhikala Forest Camp, I gave tips individually, which was their policy.

<orange>Quote</orange> of the <orange>Trip</orange>
(All my reports have one)
Rather than a verbal quote, this time it is a series of numbers: <blue>260/9, 231/10, 274/6, 277/4, 1706,16%, 1411, 70, 25, 14-ish, 17, 6, 2, </blue>which will appear (in blue) throughout the report.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 09:19 PM
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<orange>T</orange>i<orange>g</orange>e<orange>r</orange> C<orange>e</orange>n<orange>s</orange>u<orange>s</orange>
Before I had seen my first tiger or even pug mark, Naturalist Rajan in Kanha told me the 2010 tiger census figures had just been released. The results were approximately <blue>1706</blue> tigers live in the forests of India. That was a <blue>16% </blue> increase from the previous census figures released in 2007, which showed <blue>1411</blue> tigers. The current census included 70 tigers not previously in the count, located in Sundarbans. 1411 x 1.16 = 1636.67 +70 = 1706.67.

The Indian state of Karnataka, in the south, had the most tigers and Madhya Pradesh had a decrease in tigers, therefore Karnataka has earned the title of Tiger State, relinquished by Madhya Pradesh. Upon release of that report there were rumblings in Kanha that the count was in accurate and a recount was in the works.

<orange>My</orange> Own<orange>T</orange>i<orange>g</orange>e<orange>r</orange> C<orange>e</orange>n<orange>s</orange>u<orange>s</orange>
Census Methodology: If I saw the same tiger in the morning and again in the afternoon, that was two sightings. If I saw it from the elephant in an area that vehicles could not access and then later saw it by vehicle when no elephants were around, that was 2 sightings. When I arrange and pay for the trip, I make the rules on how to count the tigers.

I had a total of<blue> 25 </blue> tiger sightings of <blue>14-ish</blue> different cats and had an audio only of 1.

<blue>17</blue> in Kanha
(8 drives in Kisli resulted in 10 tiger sightings from the vehicle and 6 tigers from 3 elephant viewings called tiger shows, 1 tiger growl in the jungle for no apparent reason that was very cool to hear; 4 drives in Mukki resulted in 1 tiger from the vehicle.)

<blue>6 </blue> in Bandhavgarh
(6 drives in Bandhavgarh resulted in 6 sightings of 5 tigers from the vehicle and 1 tiger from 2 tiger shows. On my first tiger show in Bandhavgarh, the tiger moved away by the time we arrived and I did not see it.)

<blue>2</blue> in Corbett
(7 drives in Corbett resulted in 2 brief sightings from the vehicle, both in the Dhikala zone.)

All but the Mukki tiger were possible to photograph, though perhaps not with Nat Geo quality.

For one of the Corbett tigers, I could have gotten a snap but declined because viewing required me to perch atop the Gypsy, straddling the two narrow bars that serve as the frames for the windshield and back of the cab. While I did have a nice view of a tiger tummy from that precarious position, I feared that adding the task of photography to my balancing act might result in me taking a topple. The other Corbett tiger photo was a streak of orange obscured in a jungle of green à la “Where’s Waldo?”

In Kanha, we enjoyed two private tigers; in Bandhavgarh we had one private tiger which I spotted first!, and in Corbett we had the Waldo tiger to ourselves for the few seconds before it disappeared, after which a fleet of other vehicles appeared and surrounded us.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 09:54 PM
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There will be photo links at the end of the report, eventually

<orange>Other </orange>Wildlife<orange> Sightings, </orange> Beyond <orange>T</orange>i<orange>g</orange>e<orange>r</orange>

Wild dogs (Dhole): While there were packs of dogs in the Kisli section, the Mukki section of Kanha had been reporting almost daily sightings and that is where I saw them. There was a pack of 3 and a pack of 11. Our viewing began when we saw 2 members of the pack of 3 briefly as they ran into the forest. Naturalist Ashok employed his excellent tracking skills and intuition and we located them as they exited on the other side of the swath of forest. Alarm calls within the forest kept us updated on their path.

The dogs decided to rest in the shade of a bush upon leaving the forest, so we waited about an hour for them to advance into the open and were well rewarded. For 20 minutes they darted around in short grass and on the road, making the occasional rest stop and putting on a show in front of us and one other vehicle.

Jackals: In Kanha we saw at least one jackal about every other drive and spent 30 minutes with one that had just made a young chital (spotted deer) kill, joined only momentarily by another vehicle. That phenomena was unique enough that Rajan wants the photos sent to him. I saw about 4 jackals in Bandhavgarh. Enroute to Corbett we saw one with carrion in its mouth, but no jackals in Corbett.

Elephants: There are no wild elephants in Kanha or Bandhavgarh, but many hundred in Corbett. Huge monsoons last year meant the normal routine of grass burning was suspended because whole meadows were left as piles of sand from the river. Therefore elephant viewing conditions were below average for my trip and I still saw several herds in the grass, crossing the river, and in the forests. The herds attracted 3-6 other vehicles, well spaced, and the individual elephants we had to ourselves.

We were charged for about 100 meters by one disgruntled ele who suddenly popped out of the jungle. Fortunately she was not moving at full speed and fortunately I had a very skilled driver who could drive backwards in a hurry, so while tense, it was not a heart-pounding experience. I was impressed with the preemptive caution that was always taken to avoid elephant problems, even if it meant maintaining a distance that compromised photos or keeping the motor running.

Elephants were a priority for me in Corbett, even sacrificing some potential tiger sightings. Afternoons were far more productive for herds of elephants, although I had some morning sightings of lone eles. I saw all the elephants in the Dhikala zone, which is typical, though ele sightings in Biranji are possible.

Leopard: We saw one scoot up a tree, chased by a tiger in the Kisli section of Kanha! Very exciting for us and I am sure for the leopard. The tiger just seemed annoyed. Based on the comments of other naturalists, seeing this was a once a decade opportunity.

Jungle Cat: One brief sighting in tall grass in Kisli of this elusive cat that closely resembles our domestic friends.

Gaur (Indian bison): All my gaur sightings were in the Kisli section of Kanha. Bandhavgarh has them but they were in an inaccessible area while I was there. The largest herds I saw were about a dozen and lone bison or pairs of them were common. I found it challenging to get appealing pictures of these bovines, though I did find their white stockings attractive. Gaur are the largest of the bovine species, which was not as evident with the cows and calves. But the large black bulls were enormous along the side of the road.

Sloth bear: Only pug marks, in all 3 parks I visited--Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Corbett. Another guy saw a sloth bear while I was in Bandhavgarh, though.

Peacocks: I was surprised that these birds were everywhere, seen numerous times on every outing in every park. Displaying peacocks were less common—about 3 times in Kisli and once in Bandhavgarh.

Chital (Spotted Deer): Even more of a presence than the peacocks. It was the first wild animal I saw on the trip. Biggest herds were in Corbett. Their spotted coats were especially lovely in dappled light under the trees.

Sambur Deer: Seen almost every drive in small numbers, but somewhat shy and they like to hide in the forest. These are India’s largest deer and their antlers are impressive, though I noticed some asymmetrical racks.

Muntjac (Barking Deer): Seen every 2-3 drives, but more so in Corbett. They seemed less shy in Corbett.

Hard Ground Barasinga (Deer): These are a Kanha special. It is a sanctuary for them. I saw some at least every other outing in both Kisli and Mukki. The bachelor herds with all those massive antlers were striking. We even saw the remains of one in Mukki, which fell prey to the wild dogs. I asked if there was a better or worse season for seeing Barasinga and the answer was no.

Chousingha (4 Horned Antelope):
In the Mukki section of Kanha is an area called Bishaupura Meadows that looks like African savanna. The very elusive Chousingha lives here. On our transfer between Kisli and Mukki, we spotted one female and even managed a photo that does reveal 4 horns. From the hushed tones of both congratulations and of recounting this sighting to others, I knew this was very lucky.

Wild Boar:
Almost every drive at least one could be seen darting through the tall grass or into the thicket. The best place for me to see relaxed wild boars was the open fields in Dhikala in Corbett during the early mornings. I watched three of them on separate occasions near the side of the road digging furiously for roots and insects. They were so absorbed in their rooting that they lost any apprehension of vehicles.

Hog Deer:
Such an unattractive name for such a sweet little deer. These are in Corbett, not Kanha or Bandhavgarh, and prefer tall grass, which can pose a challenge for viewing and photography. They graze with the chital and can be hard to pick out. You have to look for a lack of spots and a lighter coat. Mornings were the best time to find them from my experience.

Rhesus Monkeys:
These are all over the roadsides and at the monuments and those venues afforded me better views and photo ops than the parks. Rhesus are almost never seen in Kanha and I saw none there.

Langur or Blackfaced Monkeys:
Their abundance, luxurious fur, and relaxed demeanor around vehicles—even with babies in tow—make them a photogenic subject. I thought they looked like the vervets’ more attractive cousin.

Birds:
A complete bird list for Kanaha/Bandhavgarh and for Corbett appears at the end. Corbett has the most birds interesting birds, including the Kalij Pheasant, of which I had two sightings and even a photo. A stretch of trees along a creek near the road in Biranji has to be one of the most productive birding stretches anywhere. In about 2 hours we saw around 40 in that one small area, half of the species I saw in all of Corbett.

One interesting and frequently seen bird in Kanha and Bandhavgarh was the Rufous Treepie, aka the Tiger Bird. The name comes from its orange and black colors and because it has been known to promote good oral hygiene in tigers by picking the meat out of the their teeth. I made a mental note in case I lost both of my dental flosses.

All the naturalists were excellent with the birds.
Crocs:
Corbett has two kinds of crocodiles: Gharial with the long noses and the more common looking Muggers or Marsh Crocodiles. Most were seen at crocodile lookout points driving between Dhikala and Biranji. At times they were fairly near each other for comparison. Even when submerged, the water was shallow and clear enough for a photo to turn out.

Lizards, Snakes, Turtles:
I saw monitor lizards in Corbett and Bandhavgarh that resulted in one photo. Corbett Naturalist Harise’s tremendous spotting skills were showcased with his sighting of the gray monitor in the shadows of brown/gray mud, peeking out of its shaded hole. Harise managed to spy this guy as we were moving at a fast paced clip on flat road.

We had two sightings of rat snakes in Kanha with one producing some photos. Right after leaving the designated breakfast spot in Kisli Naturalist Rajan and I heard a rustle in the dead leaves at the base of a tree. Rajan’s sharp eyes quickly picked out the yellowish snake and we watched it slither around under the leaves for 15 minutes, rarely exposing itself. This was just one example of the attention given to all species that happened our way and not just those that were orange and black striped.

A gorgeous python was sunning itself near the road in Corbett for prolonged close-up views. One Turquoise Turtle in Corbett, expertly spotted by the driver, sat in the middle of the road until it was good and ready to cross. Only my final accommodation in Corbett had any of those little lizards that adhere to the walls like ornaments.
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Old May 6th, 2011, 05:50 AM
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<orange>Taj</orange> Mahal <orange>and </orange> Agra <orange>Fort</orange>
To make the most of limited time in India, that overnight train, Gondwana Express, which arrives in Agra just after 4:00 am is great. It allows ample time to get to the Taj Mahal right when it opens, at 6:10 am (that was opening time in April) for nice morning light.

From the train Wild World India rep Guarav and I were driven to Mansingh Palace, a hotel about 15 minutes away from the Taj Mahal. We had about an hour to freshen up. Then we departed from the hotel at 6:00 am in our vehicle to where the auto-rickshaws took over. (A more festive or romantic option for couples visiting “The Temple of Love,” instead of the auto-rickshaw, might be one of the many horse or camel drawn vehicles.)

Then we walked the last 10 minutes, warding off hawkers, from the point where no more vehicles are allowed to the entrance gate. Vehicles are limited to reduce the effects of air pollution on the Taj.

The list of no-no’s for a Taj Mahal visit is a lengthy one. No lipstick, no markers, no knives, no nail files, no liquids other than water, no gum, no chocolates, no cigarettes, no lighters, no matches, no tripods, no monopods. The security was fairly thorough and I saw one woman forced to relinquish her lighter. She could have been sent to end of the entrance line as further punishment.

If getting a photo with no people in it was the goal, you’d want to be in line well before 6:10 am (opening times may change with seasons) and then move at a very fast pace through the Great Gate to the reflecting pool. It still might be tough to get no bodies in the photo. The light at 6:30 am was very soft for good photos. About an hour later it was nice too and produced sharper reflections in the pool. (Again, from a single reference point of April 9.)

Not only was the Taj guide arranged by Wild World India extremely knowledgeable about the building’s history, he knew the best vantage points for photos. I handed over one of my cameras to him and let him snap away. With the guide taking pictures, it also meant numerous photos with me in the foreground, including that Princess Diana-on-the-bench shot. The guide took more keeper photos than I did.

I had a nice outfit packed for my Taj visit, but I could tell by how my knees were feeling that the sandals that went with the outfit were a bad idea because they did not support my orthotics. I anticipated a lot of walking on unforgiving cement and marble so I needed my tennis shoes & orthotics combo. And the tennis shoes, worn with my Wigwam socks, would have looked really dorky with my intended outfit. As a result, I was feeling a bit dowdy in the presence of the exquisite splendor of the Taj, wearing my easy-to-pack baggy tie-at-the-waist pants, an old yellow blouse, and sneakers with Wigwams, not to mention the bulky gear wrapped around my midsection in the form of fanny packs/bum bags.

Then midway through our visit a group of Indian gentlemen came to the rescue to subdue my dowdiness. They each requested a photo of themselves standing next to me in the foreground with the Taj in the background. How very flattering!

I must admit the cynic in me pondered if this could be a setup. But with both Guarav and my Taj guide overseeing, I felt confident that I could relax, smile, and enjoy the photo shoot. Still, I kept a tight grip on both bum bag and the larger camera pack and hoped their lenses did not focus too closely on my fingers clutching my bags. (My passport, credit cards, and larger bills were in a money belt on the inside of the dowdy outfit.) After that little uplifting session I embraced my Wigwams and bum bag look as perfect attire for an outing to the Taj!

One more comment on footwear—if you enter the Taj, you must either go barefoot or wear paper covers over your shoes. The covers were provided in a little Taj-bag that my guide brought with us.

I spent about 90 minutes at this world wonder that really lived up to that status in my view, and I understand how anyone could spend all day. There is even an opportunity for a night time visit during the full moon I was told, but no photography during that visit.

Back to the very conveniently located Mansingh Palace for breakfast and then on to the Agra Fort, where Taj builder Shah Jahan had been imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb. (And you thought your family was dysfunctional!) The fort provided nice views of the Taj Mahal in the distance for me, just as it had for imprisoned Shah Jahan, though photos were tough through the haze that was present the day I went.

Again back to the hotel for a brief rest, and then a departure for Delhi at 10:30 am with driver/exceptional birder CB, plus Guarav, and Wild World India owner, Vikram, all accompanying me in the car.

I felt the span from 4:10 am to 10:30 am was a brilliant use of my time to leisurely enjoy these magnificent monuments at a perfect time of day for good light, fewer people, and less heat. From the overnight train, to the vehicle driven by CB who picked us up at the train station, to the prearranged auto-rickshaw, to the expert and easily understandable local guide, to the conveniently located hotel with the day room, to the marble craftsmen we met at a workshop next to the hotel, it all worked perfectly. Though not a World Wonder in the same league as the Taj Mahal, this well coordinated plan certainly deserves honorable mention!
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Old May 6th, 2011, 08:28 AM
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<orange>D</orange>e<orange>l</orange>h<orange>i</orange> S<orange>i</orange>g<orange>h</orange>t<orange>s</orange>e<orange>e</orange>i<orange>n</orange>g
The earlier you depart the better for minimal crowds, less heat, and better light for photos. I left the Ahuja Residency (a fine place to stay in Delhi with meals available and high speed Internet access) at 8:15 a.m. First stop was just down the street—Humayun’s Tomb, a World Heritage Site and the forerunner of the Taj Mahal. If optimal photo conditions are important, an even earlier start would be advised (at least in late March), so as not to be shooting into the sun. Hardly anyone was around at this early hour.

Next we visited Qutab Minar, the tallest brick minaret in the world and also a World Heritage Site. The famous Red Fort was closed on Mondays, but we admired it from the street. We stopped by the solemn national monument, the India Gate with the names of over 80,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives in World War I. Made some quick stops at the Parliament Buildings and then on to Old Delhi before noon. Later in the day maneuvering around Old Delhi in a vehicle can be nearly impossible. Every scene was a worthy photo in Old Delhi, but I did not feel comfortable snapping pictures of the people going about their daily business there. I had those same feelings about much of my travel around India.

For lunch I enjoyed Malai Kofta--cottage cheese dumplings deep fried and cooked in creamy cashew sauce, served with rice; a salad, chipati bread; and chocolate fudge cake for dessert at The Panchshila Rendezvous. My city tour guide said the restaurant was a favorite of his in Delhi and I was pleased to see he ordered the same thing as I did, without knowing my selection. A brief check of their website after arriving home shows I could even have added something Tex Mex!

All those activities of internationally famous sites and I still had plenty of time before the Gondwana Express departed at 1525 for Jabalpur. A Wild World India employee, who hopped into the vehicle enroute to the train station, was very helpful in carrying my bags up a huge flight of stairs, down the platform, and straight to my compartment, making sure I was settled aboard the correct train. I could not have managed the confusion of the Indian rail station--with only some signs in English and thick computer printouts of schedules thumb tacked to bulletin boards--on my own, despite having taken trains and subways, unassisted, all over the world and regularly negotiating the bustling maze of Chicago’s Union Station, even during the chaotic Thanksgiving holiday. I was feeling rather silly about that inability until I discussed it with several other travelers I met who shared their confusion at the railway stations.

<orange>Taking</orange> the <orange>Train</orange>
Since I like train travel and realize trains are an integral part of Indian transportation--even part of the culture-- and the schedules worked well to save me both time and money, I took a couple of trains. Plus I had seen that curiosity of an Indian tourist adventure movie, The Darjeeling Limited.

Both of my train trips were in the first class compartment, which was air conditioned and had fans. On the overnight 16-hour Delhi-Jabalpur trip, I shared a 4-bunk compartment with a congenial Australian couple who live in Singapore. We met up again briefly in Kanha.

On the 1710 to 0415 overnight train to Agra, I was joined by Wild World India associate, Guarav, who navigated the signs and platforms and got us on the right train, and then kindly took the top bunk, leaving me the more comfortable lower bunk. Across from us was a businessman who passed the time in deep slumber and remained undisturbed despite the conversation between Guarav and myself.

An attendant provides clean linens and a pillow on the overnight trains and even makes up the bunk. I found a half of Bonine prevented motion sickness and there was indeed ample motion as we bumped along the tracks. I fell asleep to the motion while reading my Jim Corbett stories and the Indian travel taleThe Sorcerer’s Apprentice by Tahir Shah, and then slept soundly and comfortably throughout the night on both trains.

On the first train trip I carried only a bunch of bananas for my supper, since I had eaten a huge lunch. On the second trip to Agra with Guarav, a bunch of bananas supplemented a boxed meal prepared by the lodge where we had just checked out. As the train slowed to a halt for our Agra stop, Guarav and I were standing with our luggage in the vestibule, ready to disembark when suddenly I remembered the bunch of bananas that I had left in our compartment. Guarav went back to retrieve them but the door was now locked from the inside. Apparently the businessman had awakened and bolted the door when we left. We joked that he must be devouring our bananas behind locked doors!

Two train trips were just right for my 3-week itinerary. But without the assistance provided by Wild World India I’d still be on the platform with my train ticket and bananas wondering where to board.

A discussion that raises cautions regarding Indian trains and gives instructions on use of the loo is posted here. In light of some of the comments in the that thread, I feel the need to mention I got by fine on the train without surgical gloves and not one cockroach did I spy, despite the lure of bunches of bananas.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...m#last-comment
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Old May 6th, 2011, 10:28 AM
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Thank you for this wonderful report!
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Old May 6th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Oh wow, another brilliant trip report, atravelynn!

I thought I'd browse through the India topics, as it's looking like I may be headed that way for work in the coming months; it's always so interesting to read about your journeys. Thanks for all the details and suggestions on where to begin trip research; it will be very helpful, should I end up going and should I be able to work in any personal travel to supplement the work obligations.
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Old May 6th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Great information here for anyone planning a trip to see the tigers. Thank you so much for all of the little details and the pearls of information they contain! Who would think that you couldn't bring lipstick to the Taj Mahal?! And regarding your photo shoot - I imagine that there are now poster-sized photos of you, white-knuckled, hanging up in their living rooms ;-)
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Old May 6th, 2011, 04:57 PM
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Sounds like an amazing trip. How would you compare to other wildlife trips that you have taken. I really want to see the tigers but have heard so much mixed opinions about the safaris in India. I am concerned about the crowds and and worried about how the disrespect for the animals is going to impact a trip. In every place I have ever visited even if there were crowds, people were respectful and the animals treated kindly. I love to hear your thoughts. Our next trip is to Madagascar and then we were looking at Sri Lanka but those tigers keep calling.
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Old May 6th, 2011, 05:40 PM
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Well worth the wait. Extra points once again for being so organized.

Looks like you found the weather tolerable and I was tempted once again to take advantage of lower rates in June, but not after I saw the temperatures from the link you posted!
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Old May 6th, 2011, 07:14 PM
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Thank you for the comments. White knuckle posters of me with no lipstick at the Taj, ha ha.

Lhgreenacres, I'll be awaiting your Madagascar thoughts. I had your same concerns, but was pleasantly surprised. Your question is a great lead-in for the next topic comparing Africa and India safaris.
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Old May 6th, 2011, 07:44 PM
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<orange>Comparisons</orange> between <orange>Indian</orange> and <orange>African</orange> safaris
I had heard and read that my expectations for India should be held clearly in check after going on African safaris. I had been warned about cheering sections when a tiger was spotted, people tumbling out of vehicles, and general pandemonium. I was cautioned to be prepared to be “horrified.”

Far from horrified, I was impressed and enchanted. What helped, I believe, was going at a non-peak time (not Christmas/New Years and not during Holi), allowing Wild World India to negotiate all the paperwork and secure all permits for the parks, paying extra for a private vehicle, and having outstanding naturalists that had been selected by Wild World India. But the people I encountered who did not have quite the exclusive arrangement that I did also seemed to be very happy and some of them were wildlife enthusiasts who travel the world.

What also helped me and will help everyone else is within the past year or so Bandhavgarh (which was the source of some of the worst stories) changed the rules to limit the number of vehicles and where they may go.

The tiger sightings did generate a gathering in all three parks I visited, with much maneuvering of vehicles, plus some standing atop the Gypsy. But all the vehicles stayed on the road, or shoulder so there was no surrounding the tiger and it was not possible to pursue the tiger off-road. Everyone remained in/on the vehicle, and I heard no shouts.

Other than tigers, I was alone for almost all other sightings--and the list of other sightings above is extensive. With most vehicles on a tiger mission, having other animals or birds to myself was not hard. When non-tiger sightings were shared, usually it was just another vehicle or two at most.

I was surprised at how many of the same species of birds, or very similar species, were present in both locations.

From the sheer standpoint of visual impact, not much from any country or continent compares with the tiger!

Some differences between African and Indian safaris included:

Those little Gypsy vehicles in India were great and more maneuverable than Land Rovers or Cruisers.

The forested terrain makes sightings tougher than the openness of the African savanna, although there are meadows in the Indian parks.

Listening for alarm calls and observing animal behaviors to spot predators was more prevalent in India. Waiting in areas that seemed promising based on alarm calls took up a greater percentage of our outings in India than Africa and more times than not, the wait did not produce a predator. The type of habitat in Indian parks meant we had to work harder and have more patience for our sightings than in most parts of Africa.

Even though my list of mammals and birds is extensive, there is not the variety or abundance of the typical African safari destination.

That queue at the park gates in India in advance of starting times does not occur anywhere I have been in Africa. However at the larger African lodges, the jumble of vehicles departing in the mornings or afternoons may number the same; but just lack the organization of an official queue.

There is a definite emphasis on seeing the single species of the tiger in India, whereas in Africa the emphasis is diffused among a greater number of predators. In both places, I found the naturalists were responsive to expanding the fauna emphasis to all creatures great and small.

In Bandhavgarh (though not in Kanha or Corbett) vehicles are assigned to a specific track, which is not the case in Africa. Not only must they remain on that track or route, but they need to maintain a designated distance between vehicles (except for tiger sightings or I suppose leopard or sloth bear). That means you cannot linger to your heart’s content at non-tiger sightings. I found that after a tiger had been spotted, then it seemed that the rules were relaxed for maintaining the designated place in line. The result of these rules is that rarely do you encounter another vehicle during the outing, unless there is a tiger sighting that can draw in up to 10 or 11 vehicles from your track.

The ability to view predators from an elephant is unique to India (and other Asian destinations), although I saw a hyena from a camel once in Africa and there are places such as Abu’s and Amalinda where it is possible to ride an African elephant. Longer elephant safaris that last a good part of the day, or even several days are possible in Corbett, though I didn’t partake. I was pleased to learn that mother tigers with young cubs are not approached by elephant. The demeanor of the tigers when viewed by the elephants varied from complete disinterest, to sleeping soundly, to a hiss and a departure from the area.

At the parks and lodgings I stayed at in India, I did not have the remote, secluded tented camp experiences that I have enjoyed in Africa. But I think it is possible for a price.

Speaking of price, India was not as expensive as Africa.

Food at the lodges in India was primarily Indian, with a rare appearance of continental cuisine, whereas in Africa food tended to be continental, with a few choices of African dishes. Most of the Indian dishes were not excessively spicy.

When taking a packed lunch, that wobbly sausage that often is found in the African lunch boxes was nowhere to be found in the Indian packed lunches, which were predominantly vegetarian.

Both offered rewarding and exhilarating nature and wildlife and the fact that I am so privileged as to be able to even offer comparisons between these two remarkable locations is something I do not take for granted.
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