We left Enoshima/Kamakura a few days ago (see my post "Reporting from Tokyo" if you're interested) and traveled by train--a few changes and several hours--to Takayama in the mountains to the west. This post contains a few comments on what we've seen and done since then.
First, a list of the 3 faux pas I have committed since leaving Tokyo (those I know about, anyway):
1. I ordered an alcoholic drink on the train at 9 a.m. (by mistake). When the girl with the food and drink cart came by on our way to Nagoya from Shin Yokohama, I read the menu listed on the cart and chose "soda" because I was thirsty. The first taste was lemony and pleasant, but it soon became apparent that there was alcohol involved. The nice woman next to me who had offered us candy when we sat down wanted nothing more to do with me after she saw I was a morning drinker!
2. At dinner at the ryokan we stayed at in Takayama, the owner told us that supposed to take the dish that was cooking on the small brazier would be ready in 10 minutes. After 10 minutes I poured the sauce into the dish, prompting a hearty laugh from the owner when she came back to check on us--apparently I was supposed to dip the meat and other things that had been cooking into the sauce, not pour the sauce on the dish. Oh well--not a disaster, just a cause for levity.
3. More seriously, I (gasp!) forgot that I was wearing the TOILET slippers after I used the toilet and wore them into the tatami room. I would have forgiven myself when I noticed, but unfortunately the owner was in our room at the time, making up the futons. She didn't say anything, but she noticed for sure. How embarrassing!
And my list of Japanese oddities/idiosyncracies:
1. There are no trash cans apparent in public places, yet Japan is the cleanest place I've ever been to. What do people do with their litter? (We ended up carrying empty cans and papers around with us for hours before finding someplace to dispose of them.)
2. The toilets qualify as jacks-of-all-trades. They do everything but your laundry.
3. Love those pre-meal washcloths, but where are the napkins? Like the lack of trash cans, the lack of napkins is a mystery--especially since nobody walks around with dirty hands and faces.
4. There's a total respect for people who disembarking from buses and trains. No crowding to get on--everybody waits their turn.
5. Crosswalks and traffic signals rule!
6. Very few Japanese wear sunglasses, though I've seen a few full-face shields.
7. Salt in every dish. My blood pressure is undoubtedly suffering.
Prosaic things I love about Japan:
1. The trains. I really love the trains.
2. Yukatas or pajamas (and toothbrushes) provided in every hotel, ryokan,and minshuku. Thank you!
OK, on to a quick report about our past few days. We had what we thought were fairly complicated arrangements to get from Enoshima to Takayama, but they turned out to be quite easy (thanks again to Japan Railways). The ryokan staff gathered to wave goodbye to us (and presented with a pretty bowl with scenes from Enoshima) as we took a taxi from Enoshima to Fujisawa, where we boarded the train back to Yokohama, then tranferred to the Yokohama line to Shin Yokohama. Easy! From there we took the shinkansen to Nagoya (drink time!) and then changed trains for the 2-hour trip from Nagoya to Takayama along the river. Lovely scenery along the river gorge.
When we arrived in Takayama we found the adjacent bus station and reserved our tickets on the Nohi bus to Shirakawa-go the next day. This was the piece I was most concerned about, afraid that we wouldn't be able to get a seat at such short notice. (I also envisioned the "Nohi bus" as something equivalent to Miyakazi's cat bus, but it turned out to be just a regular bus, darn it). But in fact we were the ONLY PEOPLE on the bus both from Takayama to Shirakawa and, 2 days later, from Shirakawa to Kanazawa. Wow, has Japan tourism taken a hit or what?
Anyway, our next step was to find our ryokan, Sumiyoshi, which we had reserved with Japaneseguesthouses.com, a very helpful service for non-Japanese-speakers. Sumiyoshi is a traditional ryokan located right on the rushing river that runs through Takayama, about a 13-minute walk from the station. It's a delightful place, full of antiques, friendly, a great place. Highly recommended! There were only 3 or so couples staying the night, but since dinner was served in our room we didn't get to meet any of them. The owner is very friendly and speaks serviceable English. She gave us all the instructions we needed, including the part about not wearing slippers (especially the toilet slippers) on the tatami mats...oh well. Our room overlooked the river and a 100-year-old plum tree that looked the part but provided the plums that the owner used to make her own delicious plum wine, served with dinner.
Dinner? Let me indulge and list the dishes,since it was the best meal we've eaten in Japan so far:
starters: 3 kinds of sashimi, a dish of tofu, egg, and fiddlehead ferns, 4 kinds of pickles, avocado and asparagus salad, and shrimp and fish paste (OK, I passed on the fish paste)
main courses: Hida beef and mushrooms, peppers and onions cooked in a spicey brown sauce (the one I dumped into the dish), tempura (shrimp,eggplant, sweet pototao, and greens), and fish cooked in foil and cream sauce with onions and 2 small root accompaniments
finishers: rice, miso soup with mushroom tofu
dessert: orange slices and strawsberries; plum wine
Aside from eating in Takayama, we walked and walked--through the traditional quarters of the town and along the walking course that skirts the temples above the town. We also shopped (woodwork is a Takayama speciality) and enjoyed the free museum of art and local history, as well as restored merchants' houses and other sights. The weather wasn't so great but the rain held off for the most part until we got on the bus to Shirakawa-go in the afternoon, so we had a very pleasant stay in Takayama.
The bus route to Shirakawa-go is almost completely through tunnels--45 minutes of them!--so we were disappointed with the lack of scenery along the way. We arrived in the village about 5:00 and made our way in the rain across the suspension bridge to the village itself. Most all the tourists were gone for the day, so we were two lonely Westerners pulling our roller bags through the streets to our little minshuku, the Shimizu Inn, at the end of the enchanting village of Omigachi. We were pretty bedraggled-looking so it was kind of funny when the inn's owner saw us coming up the road and ran to tell his wife--"The crazy Americans are here!"--or so I imagined. Anyway, we were glad to be out of the rain and into the rustic little inn that would serve as our home for the next 2 nights.
Reporting from Takayama, Shirakawa-go, and Kanazawa
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"But in fact we were the ONLY PEOPLE on the bus both from Takayama to Shirakawa and, 2 days later, from Shirakawa to Kanazawa" - when I did it in reverse last year there were quite a lot of people on that bus, but the bus from Takayama to Matsumoto was almost empty.
You're making me miss Japan! Really loved it up in the Japan Alps. Pity you missed the Art Nouveau museum in Takayama, though. It's not well advertized.
Love the story about the geta slippers in the bathroom. I did the same thing once on our sixth trip to Japan. Just wasn't thinking, luckily no one but my wife was around.
And don't worry you aren't the only one drinking on the shinkansen in the morning. I always see Japanese businessmen and women drinking a beer with their breakfast on the trains especially on the longer runs through Tohoku.
All the Japanese women carry a small towel in their bags(along with their hard candy). Mrs HT noticed this a while back as most Japanese women use their own towels after washing in the restrooms.
HIDA BEEF! I love Hida Beef! Most like it better than Kobe. You are really making me miss Japan now,lol. Keep the story coming.
Aloha!
Great post it takes me right back to 3 years ago when we stayed at Sumiyoshi, what a great place - absolutely fantastic food. I still rave about the Hida beef in miso! As for the alchohol in the mornings, I got a good telling off from a woman in a Takayama Sake shop who thought it disgraceful that I was tasting Sake at 11.00 in the morning!
I really enjoy reading other people's trip reports on places I've been, so I'm glad you are enjoying mine, typos and all (blame the different keyboard--I do!). For one, the village name is Ogimachi, not Omigachi. Oh well--you get the idea.
Shimizu Inn has only 3 guest rooms, arranged around a comfortable sitting room with a fire pit, low tables, and seat pads. This is where dinner and breakfast are served. Our first night we were the only guests, so we had the shared bathroom to ourselves, as well as the sitting room. Our tatami bedroom had a sliding door that opened onto a view of the fields at the edge of the village and the snowy mountains in the distance. Pretty darn nice! The second night we were joined by a nice couple from Singapore, so we had a welcome opportunity to converse with someone other than ourselves.
We thought that 2 nights in Shirakawa-go might be one too many, but it was really a treat to be able to take our time exploring the village before and after the tourist masses visited (lots of Japanese, a few Australians, no Americans besides us). After the first rainy night the day dawned brilliantly sunny, which was great for taking pictures. We walked up to the viewpoint above the village for the classic view that appears on posters--beautiful! The air was so crisp after the rain.
Since we had the full day and the next morning in the village, we were able to take advantage of the time to take a bus to Gokayama (50 minutes, a pretty ride along the river) for a ramble there in the village of Ainokura. This beautiful spot is definitely worth a visit, with its mountain setting and less touristy vibe. About 20 gassho-zuri (thatched A-frame houses) are clustered there and provided wonderful scenes for more photos. We lucked out because one of the houses is in the process of being rethatched, so we were able to watch the workers on the roof pounding in the thatch. An interesting process to observe.
Back in Ogimachi, we visited the outdoor museum of restored gassho houses just across the river and then spent some time before dinner reading and painting (I bring my small watercolor set with me on our travels and manage to dash off a few rough pictures on each trip). Dinner was good, not outstanding, and filling as usual. In the evening we strolled the village and admired the subdued lights emanating from the houses, many casting beautiful reflections on the rice ponds that are interspersed between the houses, and listening to the accompanying frog symphony. What a beautiful spot!
The next morning it was on to Kanazawa, a lovely small city less than 2 hours by bus, where we have spent the last 3 nights. We have been impressed by the friendly people and the calm, unhurried atmosphere here. We have been staying at the efficient Dormy Inn, a modern chain hotel that caters mostly to businesspeople, though we've seen some (Asian) tourists as well. It's conveniently located next to the bus and train station, and perhaps the best thing about it besides the clean, modern facility is that it has a laundry room on the 14th floor where we were able to do our laundry for free. A great amenity for someone on a long trip (2 weeks into our trip, we were definitely ready for some clothes cleaning).
Though the hotel is not in the prime shopping and restaurant area, that part of town is easily reachable by bus. There's a small bus line called the Kanazawa Loop Bus that makes 19 stops in a circuit through the city. An all-day pass (hop on and off as many times as you like) is only 500 yen, so we bought passes every day. A highlight of our visit has been the beautiful Kenrokuen Garden (one of the "three most beautiful gardens in Japan"), which we actually visited twice. The irises are blooming right now, and there is a lovely section of them arrayed along a small stream in the garden--very photogenic. The trees are spectacular and the different lanterns are charming.
Among other places we've enjoyed are the evocative Higashi-chaya neighborhood, including a former geisha house that one can tour, and a gold leaf shop that gives demonstrations of the process; the former samurai neighborhood with its quiet lanes and the interesting Nomura samurai house; the lively Omicho (spelling?) market that, although it doesn't quite rival Tsukiji in Tokyo, has lots of great fish and vegetable displays (including $100 snow crabs); the smaller Gyokusen garden, where we were the only visitors on a cloudy afternoon; Kanazawa Castle Park, where some restoration is currently in progress; and the excellent 21st Century Museum of Modern Art, which had an intriguing special exhibit by a Danish artist. We also enjoyed the "people's gallery" there, particularly because one of the artists who was displaying a painting in that gallery is a charming Japanese woman whom we met on the loop bus on our way to the Kenrokuen Garden and then met again at the museum. We had a nice conversation with her about her work and her life in Kanazawa--very fun.
For meals, we had a couple of good (and filling) lunches in the market--one was sushi at the conveyor-belt sushi restaurant, Mori Mori. There at least one of the plates of sushi my husband ate was, according to him, the best he's ever had (it included uni, prawns, and fatty tuna). On another day we had tempura at a market restaurant--very fresh and perfectly done, including delicious crab claws and shrimp. One night for dinner we ate Indian food at Sharma on the 8th floor of the Forus department store near our hotel--another essential break from Japanese food. We sought out and found the highly recommended Arroz restaurant, which we planned to go to for dinner tonight, but lunch more than filled us up so we are unfortunately going to pass on that. Thanks to KimJapan for the recommendation anyway.
Three days in Kanazawa have been perfectly pleasant and relaxing--there was plenty to keep us busy. Two full days are a must, for anyone considering a visit.
Tomorrow we leave for Kyoto, where we will stay 3 nights before continuing on for an overnight in Miyajima. We've been to both places, so it will be fun to visit again and see them with more experienced eyes. If I get a chance, I'll post a separate report from there before we fly to Hokkaido.
Ahh.. ShiraKawa Go.
I was there on many occasions in late 2001 and in 2002. Doing some work over in the Toyama prefecture area.
Shira Kawa Go and Gokayama were so nice to see in the winter. Picture postcard perfect with all the snow there.
Another place to see when in Toyama is TATEYAMA. National Park some 2,500 meters up. We went there on 10 occasions over a 12 month period, and once when I was there in 2005 as well.
Got me thinking about a return trip. Late Novemeber,just before the area is closed to tourists due to the enormous amount of snowfall there. I dont think many western tourists know about this place.
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e7550.html
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5950.html
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5951.html ( ShiraKawa Go in winter)
Great report, aprillilacs! I just visited Shirakawa-go on the way from Takayama to Kanazawa - unfortunately it poured that day so the three hour time period between buses was more than enough for me to see the restored houses etc. Originally I had thought of staying overnight but I read that the inns can be very smoky from those fire pits and I did notice that in the houses I visited - I take it you guys had no problem....
Looking forward to more.
bookmarking
Just to complete the story, here's where I've posted some of my pictures of Takayama, Shirakawa-go, Ainokura, Kanazawa, Kyoto, and Miyajima.
http://aprillilacsphotos.shutterfly.com/5180
Enjoyed your report, thanks. I will guess that you had those cans and perhaps food wrappers to dispose of because you were walking down the street eating and drinking. If that is what you did, why you had the trash, then add one fopah for each occurrence.
I am wondering if you accepted the candy, said thank you, consumed a piece, and expressed enjoyment of it. She may have been miffed if you didn't do at least both of the first two of those things.
Hmm, I actually was not aware that walking-and-eating-or-drinking was a faux pas, but I'm happy to say that's one I did not commit. We did occasionally buy a soft drink from one of the zillions of vending machines on the streets (why are they there if not for people to buy and drink them?) but would consume it in short order and stash the empty bottle or can in my bag--it would be there for hours since there was seldom anyplace to throw it away (even next to the vending machine). And yes, I did accept the piece of candy the lady on the train offered me, ate it as soon as she gave it to me, and smiled as I thanked her, of course!
Of course you did all that! So scratch off fopah number 1 and you are down to two. Pretty good.