Where do you go for Thai food, eaten as spicy as Thais eat theirs, in Bangkok? I know one can add chilli at the table, however when the chilli paste is cooked by traditional means the taste is better, imho.
I usually stay at Roof View Place off Samsen Road and although there are some great food carts and of course May Kaidee's close by, I'm looking for some places as good as Sukjai and House in Sydney. Cheap, gutsy Thai food cooked for Thai's and not "dumbed down" for Western palates. When I lived on Samui I was spoilt but now I find myself not knowing where to find traditional Thai food after an absence of 2 years visiting Bangkok. I love my Thai food very spicy, pet pet. Thanks in anticipation.
Real, gutsy Thai food (not tourist Thai food!) and where do you eat it?
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I don't know how "gusty" it is, but you might try Kaeng Pa Si Yan, next to the Si Yan post office. It's spicy enough that it has discouraged my mother-in-law (Thai).
Taxi Map: http://g.co/maps/qy9mg
While in Si Yan, stop by the northeast corner of Nakhon Chai Si and pick up a set of Pla duk, from the table near the corner. Her catfish, itself, isn't spicy, but the sauce will do the trick!
Bus Map: http://g.co/maps/9qb93
Thanks so much for your input and the directions. Excellent!
That "corner" would be the NE corner of Nakhon Chai Si and Samsen.
Not sure whether it meets your exacting standards, but I always head for Taling Pling, which is plenty spicy for me, and I like it hot. (Probably helps to mention that you like it spicy.) I go to the location on Th. Pan, just round the corner from the Myanmar Embassy, between Th. Sathon Tai and Th. Silom, not sure how the others stack up. I especially like the sator beans with prawns and pork...
Excellent recommendation by Thursday, Taling Pling has several branches and the easiest one to find is at the Paragon Mall.
Curt "pla duk" is Thai for cat fish so you should instruct them on how to cook the fish like "yum pla duk foo" etc.
Thank you very much for the input. My standards are not all that "exacting". Tired of ordering Thai food and finding it's not authentic, neither spicy or tasty, far too bland with too much coconut milk added and not enough thought and care used in the cooking process. That's why I flying back to Bangkok for just 5 days to eat myself silly! Most lovers of Thai food cooked by a "Mama" and served from a big pot, appreciate the sublime taste when the spices all merge to create something divine. Much appreciate these tips. Thanks again.
@ Hanuman: Since all this stand sells is pla duk fu, I didn't feel the need. Had it been a restaurant, I might have made the distinction.
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Now, you want "gutsy? Meet Auntie Ly. She would pound up a somtam that could melt a plastic fork! Unfortunately, she headed back home. We sure miss her chicken!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6988908807_f8c15782cc_z.jpg
If you want spicy, Issan vendors are always a good bet.
Everybody I know when ordering yum pla duk foo would say the whole name. I suppose the vendor will smile when a foreigner order it and just say "cat fish"!
Lyndie - try to find a place that limit or don't use MSG for a nice dining experience. Street food vendors tend to use a lot of MSG.
Head down to Nakhon Si Thammarat! Some amazing ahan ped ped! But I've found the entire Gulf of Siam seaboard, especially around Cha Am, is filled with the best food on Earth. Tuk mak duoi! So cheap and so spicy and so delish!
Bon apetite!
I'm a bit spoiled though - I married a Thai chef, so of course the answer to your original question - "at home"!
Here are some images of some amazing Thai food to wet your appetite.
http://cokesmithphototravel.com/Som_s_Cookbook.html
Cheers
At this stand, this stupid foreigner simply asks for however many I desire to take home. THIS IS A SINGLE ITEM CART! Not too complicated.
This lady "smiles" because I am a foreigner that pulls up, on his motorcycle, and orders from the street. Many smile because I am the only foreigner that has ever visited their cart, stall or shop. Many also smile simply because they are simply sweet people! I ain't downtown.
Personally, although I have no problem with MSG, beyond thirstiness, I have noticed as many, if not more, MSG bombs at "proper" restaurants as I have at carts and stalls. One big difference is that, at least at stalls and carts, one can see what's going in the dish.
Another nice thing about carts and stalls is that most stick to one dish. When all one does is one thing, it's often done well.
BTW,
This person seems to be one of the few to realize that Bangkok extends beyond Sukhumvit. She is staying in an area that few will ever visit. That's why I pointed her to a couple a spots around the Dusit area.
Another place I might recommend would be Krua Apsorn. There is a branch on Dinsor, just south of Democracy Monument. Although not necessarily "spicy", they put out some pretty tasty grub.
I have never heard or read any bad reviews of Krua Apsorn,. But then again, I haven't run it past Hanuman before.
So all of us here on the boards who visit Bangkok repeatedly think it's limited to just Sukhumvit? Wow, I just learned something about myself even *I* didn't know. Rather large brush you're painting us al with, don't you think, Curt?
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Thanks again people. I will get my "lard arse" movin' and seek out these recommendations. See, I knew you lot would come up with some great tips for me!!! On ya!!! Great stuff!
Coke, if all those food pictures are from your wife's cooking then kudos to her culinary skills!
Hanuman - yes those are all her's! And the best part of each of those pics is that I ate every single one of them!!!!
And people wonder why I have a belly...
You might have a browse through this site:
http://www.eatingthaifood.com/
I know Mark and the others behind it. They're pretty adventurous.
Tks again, all. Great stuff!
I too enjoy really spicy food and have long been frustrated at the way Thai cuisine is now being altered to suit what is perceived as western tastes. As a result we mainly tend to eat at street stalls and small hole in the wall places (but can never rember there names!).
On our recent trip we really enjoyed Polo Fried Chicken at 137/1-2 Soi Polo, off Wireless Rd - (a long walk from Sukumvit!). Excellent fried chicken served with mountantains of deep fried garlic and a range of dips (have since become addicted to Pla Yang chilli paste. To accompany the chicken they offer dozens of differnt varieties of Som Tum - particularly liked the salted crab version. All the dishes were well spiced and the place itself seemed to be frequented mainly by Thais with few foreigners in evidence (at least when we were there).
Several years ago the late Gpanda asked me about the very same restaurant, Polo Fried Chicken, and wanted to know if it was good. Gpanda had just read about it in the NY Times, see article below, and I think I told him that it was OK but not a place I would go for a special meal. One of the restaurants famous with many tourist because of the NY Times.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/12/dining/12bang.html?pagewanted=all
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/bangkok-polo-fried-chicken.cfm
Found it! http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/bangkok-polo-fried-chicken.cfm
Lyndie if you have the time jt's good for lunch.
Thanks again for your input. Will search out some of the tips here. Just the thought of a som tum (with 3 chillies!)drives me wild! Counting the days! I used to work for one of Sydney's first (and largest) Thai restaurants in the late 80's (not on the food side) however I got to eat some truly authentic Thai food cooked by the children of Thais who fiercely protected and valued their recipes. There was a red duck curry and a whole fried snapper that I would give (almost) anything to re-visit those tastes. The restaurant was Thai Pothong and the chef was a guy named Prasit. Restaurant still there but the chef has long departed. Not sure where he is now but his name is cloned when a new Thai restaurant opens. His cooking ability was a miracle!! His jungle curry exceptional. I pine for those days. One does not know what one has until it's gone! Thanks again guys.
Hanuman, where is jt's???
It's in Soi Polo and it's on the left as you enter from Wireless road. Nearest landmark is the US embassy and there is a police station (Lumpini station) right outside the soi on Wireless. About 50 meters in and usually pack at lunch time. 3 Chili? You must have a fireproof mouth!
I still think you will enjoy Talingpling as well. Web site only contain their address - http://www.talingpling.com/
Another thread by ekscruncy that you might find interesting: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/bangkok-eats-ny-times-article-on-upscaleindoor-street-food.cfm
Wonderful advice, thanks again. Have done my list and will report back when I return in late May. All the best.