cwn

Hi,

After all to great advice I received on my plans in India last year, I am now looking for some help with our trip to Burma next March.

I have worked out the basic details, into Mandalay from Bangkok and back to Bangkok from Yangon, hotels and local transportation, for our trip with Myanmar Shalom. Now they are asking for the specific things we want to do/see in each place.

Those that helped me last year gave great advice on what might be suitable for me as I have a little mobility issue....I walk with canes and have trouble with steep, very uneven paths and also lots of steps.

Right now I am working on Inle Lake. Indein gets high marks from everyone who goes and the pictures look really neat, but I read about the climb up to the temple. There seems to be a covered walk way, but is it a long walk up and is it steep? What about walking around the old stupas...the pictures are wonderful but are the pathways terribly uneven? They don't look too bad in some of the pictures.

At first I rejected Inle Lake all together, but put it back in the mix thinking we would just do a boat ride seeing what we could from the boat as there appear to be some wonderful villages and daily life scenes , but now I am thinking maybe we could manage a stop or two. I will know when I see the docking area if I can even get out of the boat, but I don't want to get out and then not be able to get to the site.

What stops might be possible...any of the workshops, especially the textile one/s? Looks like some places have a small dock area and at others, the boats just run up on the land. Climbing over several rocking boats is out, but climbing out of my boat onto the edge of the water or a dock is doable with some help from DH.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Johahn

Hi,

I was there a couple of years ago but from what I heard it hasn't changed much. You should definitely go to Inle Lake. I loved Bagan of course for its rich history and amazing stupas, but Inle Lake provides peace and serenity. You can read a trip report there: http://asiaescapades.wordpress.com/category/burma/

My travel route was as such:
1. Yangon – Kyaiktiyo (Taxi, Coach, Truck, Trek)
2. Kyaiktiyo – Yangon (Trek, Truck, Coach, Taxi)
3. Yangon – Mandalay (Train)
4. Mandalay – Bagan (Taxi, Plane)
5. Bagan – Heho (Plane)
6. Heho – Inle Lake via Nyaung Shwe (Taxi, Ferry)
7. Inle Lake – Heho via Nyaung Shwe (Taxi, Ferry)
8. Heho – Yangon (Plane)

Enjoy Burma!

Cheers,
Johahn

cwn

Thanks for your post, I had actually founded it when searching for information. Your pictures are very nice.

sartoric

Hi cwn

You are very brave to be tackling Burma with mobility issues, although I assume you may have had these issues for a while and can cope okay.

Using a travel agent will smooth the way, be aware that many temples and pagodas are at high points, so do involve steps. Having said that, sometimes there is a workaround like a road to the top, in Magway for example.. Some steps are relatively easy, small risers with large gaps in between.

Shwedagon in Yangon has an elevator, you will be okay there.
At Mandalay Hill there are escalators up, not sure about an elevator, we walked down, but there was a tower that appeared to have one. Check with your agent. Most of Mandalay is pretty flat, but of course ther are broken footpaths everywhere.

I'm going to Inle Lake tomorrow, so will keep an eye out with your requirements in mind, and report back later.

cwn

Sartoric.....Thank you so much.

I have had the issue for some time so am use to working with or around the problem. I don't climb to the top of things or hike to out of the way sites, but if the walk is not to long, there are not too many steps and the path is fairly even, I am OK, just very slow. Plus DH is very helpful as are our drivers.

Our Indian driver, Ramesh, bribed our way all the way into the inter court yard of the Amber Fort last year or I would not have seen the inside of the fort! That was sort of over the top, but he and our Siem Reap, guide, Dara, are two of the best we have ever had.

I am working with an agent like I always do for a trip in a less developed country. We are working on things that we want to try to see. It is always a moving target that can change based on conditions on the day we are there. You know...best laid plans an all!

I had read about the elevator and escalators so thanks for confirming those. I think we are ok with what we will try to do in Mandalay and Yangon.

Bagan and Inle Lake are much more or a question mark! I think we will mostly do drive bys in Bagan. I would love to see the area from an upper terrace of a temple. However unless there is one that has less than knee high steps, I will wait in the car while my husband climbs for pictures! I am just excited to be there and see it from the ground. From other peoples pictures, looks like I will be able to see the ground floors of a couple of the major temples so that is good.

The reports and pictures of Inle Lake finnally won me over to going there also. Originally we were just going to take a boat ride around the lake to see what the lifestlye is like, but I would really like to get out a Indein and/or one of the textile workshops if possible.

So thanks again for keeping me in mind. I look forward to you report.

Have fun!

Kathie

You might want to consider taking a horse cart in Bagan. Even if you can't get out and climb the pagodas, just absorbing the atmosphere from a horse cart is magical. You will also find that "everyone" will want to be helpful.

The walk up Indien is steps, landings, more steps. The steps are not steep, but there are a lot of them.

We didn't bother with Mandalay Hill - there is nothing there od historical significance = it is all a re-creation.

cwn

Thanks for the comments, Kathie,

I saw a picture that was suppose to be of the covered walk way in Indien. The blog writer said it was a Hot 30 minute walk to the top! I didn't see steps, but if the steps are mostly what we consider a normal rise and mixed in with smooth surfaces that is Ok for a while....but don't think I could handle 30 minutes worth for a fit person!

I have not included Mandalay Hill in our plans...doesn't sound that interesting to me. I can temple my husband out very fast! So only want to visit the most historic or most interesting, beautiful or photogenic places!

At this point I am thinking Sagaing Hill for Soon Oo Pon Nya Shin and U Min Thonze Buddha Cave and a late afternoon visit to Bien U for the afternoon we arrive. Next morning go to Mahamuni Pagoda???, Golden Palace Monastery and Kuthodaw Pagoda and maybe a gold leaf making workshop and a silk store on one of the 2 days. Depending on whether we fly Thai or Bangkok Airways, we will have at least the afternoon or maybe most of the day the first day and then the next morning until noon when we leave for Bagan.

The Bagan house cart ride, I am sure, is the best way to see Bagan. With help, but not gracefully lol, I can get in and out, I can't handle the rough ride for any length of time. I do have the name of a cart diver who will do short rides near our Hotel (Tharabar Gate Hotel) at night that I want to look into. I love night scenes!

sartoric

Mahamouni is easy, no steps to speak of, and interesting bronzes stolen from Angkor.

While Mandalay Hill may have no historical significance, it does have pretty fantastic views of Mandalay City.

Kathie

... And the Mahamuni Buddha was stolen from Mrauk U. As you learn about the history of the SE Asian cultures, it becomes clear how often Buddha images were war bounty.

Yes, the walkway up to inDien is smooth pavement and standard steps. We got to Indien first thing in the morning which certainly mitigated the heat.

Horsecarts vary in their comfort level. Some are quite comfortable - the ones at Ava were just terrible. But the horse cart we had in Bagan was very comfortable.

cwn

Thanks....

OK Mahamuni Pagoda is in, No steps is good and DH will enjoy the history of the bronzes.

There is just so much that sounds/looks interesting, it is hard to decide.....

Kathie

(Thanks to the mods for deleting my duplicated comments)

sartoric

Hi cwn

I was out on the lake today, and took some photos for you, will post them on flicker when I'm home.

I guess I'd be considered to have normal mobility, however I do seem to have spatial issues when walking down steps and on uneven or moving surfaces like bamboo bridges.

Your hotel may well have a nice launching area, I used a local guide that was recommended by two guests staying at this hotel. I'm trying to follow Kathie's philosophy of spending my money with the locals, and this young woman supports her two young sons as well as her elderly parents.

There were some parts difficult for me, wooden steps less than 5" wide, risers of varying heights, and handrails that moved. You will have step into the boat over the side, it's maybe 15" and slopes outward, then of course the boat will rock.

You will find plenty of people willing to help you.

Happy to answer any specifics.

yestravel

Just wondering what you are planning to see in a horse cart at night? I don't recall lighting anywhere.
On the boating docs, I think you will find they all vary. Some were very easy to negotiate while others a bit more difficult. But you can get help getting in and out.
I am an able bodied person and walk a lot. I really enjoy walking esp when we travel. I will say that one of my distinct memories from our time in Myanmar was the difficulty with walking. It was often a chore & we did minimal walking which for us is very unusual. I admire your willingness to give places a try and sure you will work this out. I mention my perception of the walking just to add into you equation as you decide what you want to see.

Kathie

Yestravel, you are quite right about going out at night. There is very little lighting with the exception of a few pagodas lit of at night (for distance viewing). Take a horse cart during early morning or late afternoon when then heat isn't too oppressive.

cwn

Sartoric and yestravel, Thank for your comments and suggestions.

Sartoric, Thanks for taking time with the pictures. Pictures really help when trying to decide if it is something I should try.

The boat entry sounds about like what I am expecting....sort of like the little skiffs and wooden docks in the Amazon back waters. As I said, my entry is not graceful and, thank goodness, I am not too vain....but I can manage with some extra hands! My DH usually just rolls his eyes and laughs!

Sounds like I better go back to the original plan of just a boat ride and wait until I see the docking areas to determine what I can manage. Just being there in person, meeting the people and seeing the country will be great! If we have a nice day, think we will at least head to Indein, the canal looks interesting at the very least. Any more will just be gravy!

I stumbled on a blog by someone, who was there this past year. They took a cart ride around the Old Bagan area and got some nice night pictures of the lighted temples. The report said there was one driver who hung the TG hotel offering the ride. I will report back on what we find....sounded like fun, if true.

One more question...suggestion on the best temple/s in Bagan for special details in the interior...some art work etc...knowing I can't manage to see all the well known ones. Entry pictures of several of the famous ones look like they are easy to enter.

Guess I am asking which are the most worthwhile? I will temple DH out after seeing a couple intereiors! Sulamani Guphaya Phato, Ananda, Shwezigon Paya and Manuha sound like good ones to actually visit?

yestravel, Thanks for your walking comments, I am able do much more in the US and Australia. Traveling in the US, Australia and, to some extent, Europe has become so much easier than SE Asia, especially. I sometimes forget how nice smooth paths, ramps and elevators increase my ability to explore on my own.

sartoric

Hi cwn

I'm back home now after 18 very rewarding days in Myanmar. The most appealing aspect of the country for me is the friendly, welcoming and happy nature of the people. For those who have so little, their generosity is remarkable.

I did take pictures of various landing spots around Inle Lake. I will post pictures and provide a link for you when I remember how to use Flickr. The silk and lotus weaving workshop was over two levels, the inside staircase had evenly spaced steps with good solid banisters. The outside staircase was not so good, but I'm sure they would let you use the better stairs.

The 1947 Pandaw is operated by a company called Paukin. It's an original ship. We travelled on boats operated by Pandaw, their river ships are not original, rather recently built replicas in the style of the original river cruisers. Lots of teak and brass, all ensuite cabins, about 25 I think.

When they launched the first replica (maybe in 2002) the villagers were uncomfortable seeing a "steamer" with no funnel. All Pandaws are powered by diesel engines, but now have a fake funnel on the top deck to appease the locals.

I hope your boat trip is great, and that the crew look after you as well as the Pandaw crew looked out for us. On our trip there were several people well into their eighties, who had some mobility issues. Each was assigned their own personal "minder" for excursions, sometimes two if the path was slippery.

Even if you don't get off the boat, watching the daily life on the riverbanks as you float by is very interesting. If you have some small binoculars take them, as the river can be very wide in places.


Caroline

Kathie

Caroline, I've loved reading your comments and I look forward to your full report.

cwn

Thanks Caroline,

My DH says I need a keeper so this may be a match made in Heaven!

I have the brochure on both the 2002 and the 1947 Pandaws. Paukin is operating both now, may always have. The 2002 does have about 25 and the 1947 has 16. The interiors book very similar and the 2002 from the exterior looks like the 1947 only bigger. The 1947 was restored and modernized a few years ago. DH loves this type of travel so we are looking forward to it. I had read that every effort would be taken to help getting on and off. So it glad to know that was done on your cruise. I have made a note to take some binoculars!

Again thank you for taking time to do some ground work for me. I really appreciate that and am looking forward to reading about your trip!

Carolyn

sartoric

Hi Carolyn

I think we're talking two different companies here.

Pandaw (the company) is owned by a Scottish guy named Paul Strachan. They have a number of boats, six or seven at least, operating in Myanmar and Cambodia/Vietnam.
I'm not sure who owns Paukin (the company that operates 1947 Pandaw) but I'm sure you will be fine. I think the confusion comes from Pandaw being the type of boat.

The Burmese are naturally helpful and care very much for their guests.
All over Burma you will see signs in English and Burmese which say, "Warmly Welcome, and Take Care of Tourists"

I'll get those photos up soon !

Cheers
Caroline

konniandmatt

Hi cwn,
You will enjoy Burma, for sure. People are super friendly and hospitable. We were there two years back. You are already well informed, but I’d recommend Bagan as a must. You can take a horsecart to get to the temples and go around as much and as high as you want. Some steps are very steep though, but the overall impression is awesome, anyway. There is always the hot air balloon ride, to see the temples from above (we skipped it because of the price, but, actually, we should rather have had less beers instead...) You’ll find more information about our guesthouse and prices in Bagan here: http://konniandmatt.blogspot.com/201...-nyaung-u.html
The same I’d say about Inle Lake and the market at Indein. You’ll be able to get into the boat and out at the market. There is much to see, like weaving and making of knives and silver-smiths. To get to the monasteries, there is affordable transport in kind of tuk-tuks available. You can see them on the pictures here: http://konniandmatt.blogspot.com/201...inle-lake.html

I wish you a great trip, enjoy every minute of it!
Happy Travels,
Konni, www.konniandmatt.blogspot.com