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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 09:45 AM
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Questions for you Hong Kong experts out there

We ( myself, my wife and our 19-year old college-sophomore son who will be on semester break) will be in Hong Kong from January 1st until January 8th, for a total of 7 nights. My wife and I were last in Hong Kong 23 years ago and have always wanted to return. This upcoming trip opportunity presented itself and we jumped on it. I do, however, have the following questions:

1. Weather wise, I recognize that the ideal time to visit appears to be November through mid-December. Can we still expect dry and fairly decent weather during the first week of January, albeit with somewhat cooler temperatures?

2. 23 years ago we stayed at the Regent (now the Intercontinental) when it was still very new. This trip we plan to stay at the Grand Hyatt on Hong Kong Island. I understand the Grand Hyatt's location in the Wan Chai district is not as great as the Intercontinental's location in Kowloon but is the location of the Grand Hyatt something over which I should be concerned? The price differential was significant.

3. 23 years ago, the Hong Kong tourist officials printed brochures (which were then widely available throughout Hong Kong) suggesting public transportation routes in order to visit the various sites. I recall taking a number of trips on public busses and ferry boats (to Repulse Bay, Aberdeen, into the New Territories, Tiger Balm Gardens, the horse races, Lantau Island, Macau, etc.) to see the sights. Are these brochures, with their suggestions, still widely available?

4. Just last week I purchased some leftover Hong Kong dollars from a friend who recently passed through the city. I noticed that some of the 100 and 50 Hong Kong Dollar notes are issued by the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation and others are issued by the Bank of China. Although the notes of the same denomination are the same color (approximately), they are different from one another. All the notes were issued after the takeover of Hong Kong from the British. Should I be concerned about having bank notes of the same denomination which look different from one another and have been issued by different banks?

5. Final question relates to food --- We have the greatest memories of fabulous cuisine (all types - Asian, seafood, European, vegetarian, etc.) from 23 years ago at what were then very reasonable prices. Can we still expect great quality, choices, value and prices in today's Hong Kong? I have to admit that I've heard horror stories of $300 to $400 (U.S.) dinners, with wine, for two recently.

In advance, thank you for your responses. We're really looking forward to this trip (although dreading the long, but unavoidable, flights to and from the U.S.).
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 09:58 AM
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1. Early January is just as fine as Dec.

2. I wouldn't recommend the Grand Hyatt. The location is just too poor. Not close to anything, long walk to MTR. There are other newer choices like the Conrad and Island Shangri-La, both on top of the Pacific Place Mall in Admiralty - not there in 1981.

3. Repulse Bay, Aberdeen, horse races are more or less the same. Tiger Balm Gardens have been shrunk (if not closed) - nobody goes there anymore anyways. You can now go to the Lantau attractions by MTR or road to Tung Chung (near the new airport), and switch to buses; but the ferries are still there. Same ferry terminal for Macau, but Macau itself has changed even more than HK since 1981. Highrises everywhere, though the old attractions are still there, and are well restored.

4. There have always been more than one bank issuing paper notes. Besides HK Bank and Bank of China, Standard Chartered also issue bank notes. Exception is the new $10 note, which is issued by the government directly.

5. Prices have come up quite a bit, though not as terrible as in the mid-90's. Still, expect to pay "international big city" prices for the top-notch restaurants. Small eateries that cater to locals are still pretty cheap - you can get a bowl of noodle for <US$2.
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 10:04 AM
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the weather should be decent, but others will have more to say on that...prices have risen but you can still have a decent meal at a decent price...avoid the top drawer places...i prefer kowloon but i think you will also be happy in wan chai...there is a great italian place there which we visted twice on our last trip....it is called Amaroni's little italy...i have their pen but it has no street address..phone:28918855...good value , excellent food...

the dim sum in the basement of the kowloon hotel in kowloon, directlyin back of and owened by the peninsula is excellent...
the big buddah on lantau island is new since your visit and is worth a trip..there is a new airport also since your visit...you don't get that fabulous arrival down the harbor looking into peoples windows anymore...

the tourist agency has offices at the star ferry and has lots of pamphlets...don't know where you live but if it is in usa, the tourist authority has offices here and will send info...the nyc office is good...

have fun
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 10:07 AM
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Oh, forgot about New Territories. Much more apartment buildings everywhere, and much better transportation. The trains on the original KCR line is much improved, and there's a new KCR West line that opened last year to Yuen Long & Tuen Mun. New expressways around New Territories linking all the so-called "new towns" (a 1970-80's term that's no longer used).

Basically, if you look at the whole Hong Kong - HK Island, the Sai Kung Peninsula (in eastern New Territories), southern Lantau, as well as Central Kowloon are more or less the same as 1981. But the rest of New Territories, northern Lantau, as well as the newly reclaimed land in Western Kowloon, have changed the most.
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 02:11 PM
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david - last may i stayed at the intercontinental....i loved it. the price is a little steap but coming home to the interconti bar's view of hong kong skyline and unwinding in the hotel's beautful pool/spa justifies the price tag...
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 03:33 PM
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Hi. (1) Weather will be good in Jan but tending towards cold. Last winter HK experienced quit qa cold wave by island standards. Do not know where u are flying from but IMO that is the only downside of Jan - u need to carry some woolens and be prepared for some cold.

(2) Others have ans.d yr hotel qn fairly comprehensively. I think final call should be based on how much u are saving. While Wanchai is not a great place to stay it is close to Causeway Bay, the MTR, etc so its not awful either and the hotel is ok.

(3) Very easy to get hold of loads of brochures about the city and activities.

(4) Currently all currency notes (pun not intended!) work

(5) Restauarnts for every budget abound but I agree by Asian (Thailand, S'pore) stds HK is an exp place to eat. Having said that it is still poss9ible to get bang for buck. Loads of earlier posts on people's fav eateries - I posted a while ago on a new trend of "home kitchens".

HK is a great city with a buzz - sure u will enjoy!
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 01:55 AM
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I made my first trip to Hong Kong in 1978. 50 trips later I moved there. I now live in Indonesia but HK remains one of my favorite places (although I have to say it was more lively under the British).

1. The weather in January will be cool and most likely wet. Good for walking around.

2. The Intercontinental is still my favorite hotel. Grand Hyatt is grand, (and evidently has a wonderful spa) but the location is awkward. Not bad, just not the most accessible.

3. The Hong Kong Tourist Association will positively bury you with information! After SARS everyone is quite helpful.

4. Strange but true. There are several versions of official bills.

5. You can find excellent food for any budget in Hong Kong. Seafood has increased considerably in the past 20 years, but hey, who eats lobster every night. Stay out of the fancy, designer Western restaurants in the hotels and inquire about the price of what you're ordering in Chinese restaurants and you'll be fine.

Sounds like a wonderful trip for your family. My top recommendations are to walk around the peak at sunset, walk Bowen Path (not too far from your hotel) early morning, try to see some Chinese opera (you don't have to stay for the whole thing).
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 03:51 AM
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The Hong Kong Tourist Board is now on the Internet, which was not the case 23 years ago. Take a look at http://www.discoverhongkong.com/login.html. There is a ton of information there. You won?t need the brochures so much. If you want to have brochures, there are offices at the airport, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island and possibly in a city near you at home. Check the website for addresses and opening hours.

I am not a fan of the location (or the decor) of the Grand Hyatt either, but if you got a really good deal, then the inconvenience is probably worth it. A number of rooms have inner courtyard views so you may not get a habour view. (Although it is a huge courtyard with pool.) It is hard to get cabs from there in my experience as there is always a line and cabs don?t come by so often, so walk a few blocks over to the tram and bus stops as much as you can rather than trying to get a taxi.

Finally, January is a great month for walking and hiking in Hong Kong,. You can do walks on Hong Kong Island itself, or go out to Sai Kung for more serious and strenuous hikes. For hiking trail information go tohttp://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newparks/eng/hiking/index.htm, or get a copy of Exploring Hong Kong?s Countryside available in bookshops and the government printing office in Queensway. There is also a hiker?s group that lets you join walks, take a look at http://www.hkcrystal.com/hiking/index.asp. Bowen Road, mentioned above, is a great flat, pedestrian-only road with good views over Central and Happy Valley. You can reach Bowen Road from Hong Kong Park (a good bit of uphill walking mostly on stairs), or you can take a cab or mini-bus to where Bowen Road begins at Magazine Gap Road. Out and back from the Magazine Gap or Hong Kong Park area would be about 3.5 miles. You can also walk one way and catch a bus where Bowen Road ends at Stubbs Road and get back down into Central.

You will of course not recognize Hong Kong, as parts of the harbour has been filled in, Stonecutters Island is gone, there are many more skyscrapers (many with neon light shows playing up and down), and the Kowloon side is getting taller every day since the height restrictions were lifted when the new airport opened. You will not have the thrilling landing at the old airport like in the old days. . . . The flag of course is new, as is the presence of the People?s Liberation Army, and the mail is no longer ?Royal? and no more red post boxes, they are green.

I would not expect wet weather at all, January is one of the lowest rainfall months in an otherwise pretty wet place. Take a look at weatherbase.com and worldclimate.com for info.
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 11:45 AM
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Thanks to all of you for the great, and timely, responses to my queries of yesterday. I've taken notes and will reference the suggested websites this weekend for further information. I especially appreciated rhkkmk's restaurant recommendations (Amaroni's Little Italy and the dim sum place in the Kowloon Hotel), rkkwan's weather, sightseeing and currency observations and his/her advice to steer clear of Tiger Balm Gardens (it was an absurd place even all those years ago!), hobbes' suggestion concerning further restaurant research and the hiking/walking recommendations and suggested websites from both marmot and Cicerone. I am somewhat surprised by the nearly universal negative Grand Hyatt comments but sort of suspected that might be the case. Apparently, people either love it or hate it and there isn't much response between those extremes. I'll admit we had a great experience at the Regent (Intercontinental) all those years ago and still remember our breath being taken away upon entering the hotel and seeing that view (we'll at least stop in for a drink, or two, one evening at the lobby bar at asykes1's suggestion). However, seven free nights (courtesy of Hyatt Gold Passport and lots of prior stays with Hyatts around the U.S.A. and world) calls rather loudly for this trip. Now you can see what I meant about a significant price differential! Maybe I should have signed up years ago with Intercontinental's frequent guest program. Oh well.

Anyway, we are really looking forward to our return. I will, however, miss the approach to the old airport and feeling as if I was watching television with those people in the highrise apartments we passed upon landing at the old airport. It is amazing how vivid and distinct the memories of our trips are, even decades later in some cases, when we can hardly remember what day of the week it is most of the time.

Once again, thank you all for the information and assistance. I greatly appreciated the help from everyone.
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 06:23 PM
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The others have given you wonderful advice and tips. I'm going to post a slightly different viewpoint:

The Grand Hyatt is fine. Wanchai is fine.

I used to have to go to Hong Kong almost monthly and liked being in the companion hotel, the Harbour View (located on the other side of the HK Convention Centre). The hotels are near the Wan Chai Star Ferry Terminal and so easy to get on the ferry and get across. or you can go "by land" and take the MTR, which is also very convenient. Wan chai is really a fun place at night with tons of people walking around, shopping and eating(what else is there to do in HK? )

Hong Kong Airport is now ranked #1 in the world and you'll understand why when you arrive. For land transportation, get the "Octopus" ticket immediately at the airport. It'll entitle you to round trip transportation on their high speed "train" between airport and downtown. It will also allow you to travel - based on a single ticket - on almost all their public transportation - bus, trolley, MTR, etc. If you don't use up all of the ticket, you get a refund at the airport when you turn the ticket in.

Personally I don't miss the hair-raising flights into the old Kai Tak Airport when I always felt we were going to land in someone's apartment - just as they were having lunch! The new airport, on the other hand, runs so smoothly, it's a joy to land at HK Airport nowadays and be whisked directly and painlessly into town.

You wll find Hong Kong much changed. It is a 21st century city. I especially enjoy going up the free escalators up the steep hills to "mid-levels".

If you can spare a day, take the high speed hydrofoil to Macau. It's a totally different experience.

Have a great trip!
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 06:28 PM
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i always looked at what was on the table before i requested the captain to steer slightly left or right...
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Old Oct 28th, 2004, 07:32 PM
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I definitely missed Kai Tak. The landing is something really to look forward to, after a 12+ hour plane ride in coach from N. America.

And it's so convenient. All of Kowloon is just a short taxi ride. Now, it's long trek to Cheklapkok. Even if you take the Airport Express, it still requires an extra transfer as both the Kowloon and Hong Kong station are no where near any major hotel (until the Four Season opens).

And then, there's the terminal. Yes, it's modern and nice and everything; but unless you have access to the Airline lounges (especially CX's), does it really matter how "nice" the airport looks. Try flying Air Canada which uses like the very last gate of the terminal, several postal code away from check-in.

The only big plus, in my opinion, is the elimination of having to ride the bus to your aircraft. Like those poor souls who fly Northworst (sorry, I mean Northwest), which was too cheap to pay for a gate with jetbridges at Kai Tak. [On the other hand, it's pretty incredible to actually walk up to a 747, and climb the long stairs onto one.]

Those are the main things I have, about the new HKG. There are other minor irritants too, like the severe lack of restrooms in the check-in hall, passengers arriving on regular "E" buses having to enter the airport via a maintenance-personnel secret entrance, passengers arriving in anything but the AE having to go down to the arrival hall to get their $50 back from the Octopus, etc... Minor stuff, but show that it's not a "perfect" airport.
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Old Oct 31st, 2004, 04:52 AM
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Dear David,

I just returned from a short holiday in HK where I stayed at the Grand Hyatt. I hv read a lot of views re hotels in HK and the common theme seems to be that the location of the Hyatt is less than desirable. IMHO this is not true. You can get to Tsim Sha Tsui by using the Star Ferry at the Wan Chai ferry terminal which is next to the hotel. You can get to the MTR (Wan Chai) and the trams by walking via an overhead, covered pedestrian bridge which links the HK Convention centre with Hennessy Rd. The only hesitation I will hv in future in considering the Grand Hyatt is the cost. If this is not a problem, I would recommend this hotel to you. I was booked into a harbour view room and the view is simply amazing.
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Old Oct 31st, 2004, 06:19 AM
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On the subject of banknotes, this has much to do with the British influence. In the UK, both Scottish and Northern Irish banks issue banknotes. These are in addition to those issued by the Bank of England.
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Old Oct 31st, 2004, 06:36 AM
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About bank notes, I've only seen them released by 4 different banks, in addition to the ones by the government directly. Hong Kong Bank, Standard Chartered, Bank of China (only from the early 90's, I believe) and Mercantile Bank. Mercantile was bought in the late 70's by Hong Kong Bank, but my dad used to have an account with them, so I remember clearly that they are one of the note-releasing ones.

As for the location of the Grand Hyatt, it just depends on what your expectation is and how much you treasure convenience. The good thing about hotels in Tsim Sha Tsui is that you can basically walk to thousands of shops and restaurants in a few minutes. And say you just finish shopping in the early afternoon, you can drop off your stuff in your room, change and freshen up, and then go have afternoon tea at the Peninsula or IC. Plus, while there is continuous covered walkway from the Grand Hyatt to the Wan Chai MTR station, it's a pretty long walk and the trains are very deep at that station.

The Wan Chai - Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry runs at a 20-minute interval in the evening, and ends at 10:50p. [The "original" Central-TST runs till 11:30, and more freuqently.]

To the locals and who frequent Hong Kong, that's not convenient. But I guess everything's comparative...
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Old Oct 31st, 2004, 05:01 PM
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David,
We visited HK three years ago and went to the dessert buffet at the Grand Hyatt. It is quite a spread of both western and eastern desserts that was quite memorable. I believe that it is only offered certain nights of the week.
If it appeals to you, make reservations in advance and try not to eat for a few hours prior to the seating, otherwise you will not be able to sample all of the selections. And, if you really like a particular item, be sure to try some early on, or get your seconds early, as it may not be replenished, although most items were.
Finally, the biggest disappointment to me was the coffee, which was an additional charge and did not seem to me to be of as good quality as the desserts.
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Old Nov 8th, 2004, 08:15 PM
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Hi David,

I have just got back (to Sydney) from four days in Hong Kong. I stayed at the Grand Hyatt and it was excellent. Mega-gorgeous! Probably the best hotel I have ever stayed in, and my husband, who regularly travels around the Asia/Pacific region on business, also gives it top marks.

There are certainly no disadvantages in staying in Wan Chai. We're both in our early fifties and enjoy walking around cities and all the above-ground walkways on the Hong Kong side make it very pleasant walking. There is a back entrance to the hotel from the mezzanine level which links thru to the convention centre - go to the far end of the mezzanine level, turn left, go past all the hotel function rooms and right at the end you'll find some stairs down to the convention centre vehicle forecourt. Cross this and into a small shopping arcade leading to the entrance of the Renaissance Hotel. This links with a very useful walkway - to the MRT in one direction, and to the Wan Chai Star Ferry terminal in the other direction. Also if you want to go to Stanley the express bus (Route 260) stops on Gloucester St in front of Immigration Tower which just happens to be one of the buildings the walkway goes thru on the way to the MTR - take the first stairs on the left down after turning left onto the walkway overbridge just past the Bank of China Immigration Tower).

We also saw some great restaurants and bars in Wan Chai, especially in Jaffe St (next one over from Gloucester) and, again, easily accessed from that walkway. There are also some interesting shops in the area and two big malls close by - Times Square at Causeway Bay and Pacific Place at Admiralty. I actually walked from Pacific Place back to the hotel one day - not too far and quite a pleasant walk.

On my last visit to Hong Kong, three year ago, I stayed on the Kowloon side and spent 75% of my time crossing over to the Hong Kong side for various trips. This trip I went over to Kowloon twice - both times using a combination of MTR one way and Star Ferry the other way. I find both sides just as convenient but would choose to stay at the Grand Hyatt again anytime. We had no problems getting cabs - there were always several queued up waiting at the hotel.

Typical meal prices: The hotel is expensive naturally, but Grissini is worth going to. A simple meal at a lovely Malaysian restaurant in Jaffe St cost around HKD160 for noodles and a beer for two people. Lunch at Chilli & Spice at Stanley for two (2 appetisers and 2 mains plus a bottle of chablis) was just around HKD360 - great food and marvellous views.

Hope you and your family have a wonderful time in Hong Kong and at the Grand Hyatt.
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 03:44 AM
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rkkwan gave an excellent insiders information about the Hyatt and WanChai.
This webpage has so much useful information you won't ever find on guide books.
It is so true that locals do not consider the Hyatt as a convenient place! In HK if it ain't 10-15 mins away, its not conveninet. MTR must be 5 - 10 mins away, and we are talking home door to Train door. This city works at such a feverish pitch, no time must be wasted.
But for tourist travel, Hyatt is excellent, and if you have Hyatt points USE THEM!! You won't find a more relaxing and spacious hotel in the heart of the city.
HK Island is also a better place- the people are slightly more courteous than in Kowloon, and slightly less shoving and pushing.
jjester, I dont know why you keep going to HK island side, all the really local stuff is in Kowloon. Personally, I love to go to Mongkok and check out all the small shops selling everything from Hello Kitty to authentic air rifles. And it is totally safe too.
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 02:55 PM
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Yes, kilofoxtrot, there is some great stuff on the Kowloon side and we did spend several hours wandering around Mong Kok. But there is also a lot of things on Hong Kong Island that are interesting especially for first-time visitors to Hong Kong: the Peak, Stanley Markets and that awesome bus ride, mid-level escalators, the boat village at Aberdeen etc.

However what I was really trying to indicate to David was that it really doesn't matter what side you stay on, you'll probably end up crossing over to the other side for some sights and in my opinion it's all very easy and convenient from either side.
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