Also, please recommend any good, scenic hikes that are do-able in 1 to 2 hours. Any hiking clubs in Hokkaido we should check out. We'd prefer to go with other people (safety from bears). Any websites? Thanks!

Also question about car: We've reserved the lowest class car which is a Nissan March. A Japanese colleague told me it's smaller than a Honda Fit. For the places we're planning to go to (national parks, mountains), can the Nissan March handle it (enough hp)? Or should we upgrade to the next level car?

Thanks!

You review is very interesting, I have never heard about this pllace before

The Iruka Hotel(when I was there it was the Dolphin Hotel) is a no frills kind of place with a killer view of the ocean and the price is right. We did not stay here, but we did see the place and would not hesitate to stay there. I think they also have a tour boat and room deal as they have their own boat.

http://www.iruka-hotel.com/en/index.html

I think you are spending one day too many in Daisetzusan and one too few in Utoro. From Utoro you can drive through the Shiretoko Pass and over Mt Rausu to Rausu with fantastic picture spots and view points along the way. Tons of hiking trails which we did not do. We did hike in the Five Lakes area and I have written a trip report about the area if you haven't read already.

Hokkaido is a very "new" part of Japan to the Japanese people and although the culture is very Japanese the landscape and even the big cities such as Sapporo are not built like the atypical Japanese cities but more like their nineteenth century European counterparts. The streets are in the grid pattern and not the Japanese mess and you can actually find a street address here with few problems. Being new means no older ryokan, all in Hokkaido are the new hotel types with very little in old style.....all the newer hotel type of environment. Not a bad thing, just wanted you to be aware. The free types of rotenburo on Hokkaido are very rustic and not what you are envisioning I am thinking.....
If you do the trip over Mr Rausu you can go all the way to the end of the road and visit Seseki and Aidomari Onsen and see exactly what I mean.

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6859.html

Lot more on my mind but have to get back to work right now
Will be back later to finish up.

Aloha!

The Iruka also has an indoor onsen.

The drive from Shiretoko to Akan-ko is an easy one. You will hopefully have a GPS system in your rental car. If not, get one and if your rental agency doesn't have them, rent from someone who does.

http://www2.tocoo.jp/?file=rentcar_inbound/main

has English gps rentals and this place also has English GPS in their rentals

http://tiny.cc/74vhkw

You can learn to use the Japanese GPS easily if that's all they got but much better to have one than not. Just have them show you before you leave. The easiest way to use the systems is to have the phone number of your destination or a least somewhere near your destination. See here or print out on how to use the systems

http://www2.tocoo.jp/?file=rentcar_inbound/navi/navi_top

In Lake Akan you might want to check out the accommodations as there are many all up and down the lake. Again you can read my trip report for details on our stay in Akan-ko but here is a list of places to check out. Lake Mashu is not be missed as is Lake Kussharo.

http://www.lake-akan.com/en/accomodation/index.html

Also check this site for maps, drive times and to familiarize yourself with driving on Hokkaido.

http://www.northern-road.jp/navi/eng/

a little more later about the Sheraton Sapporo....love the spa/onsen there.

Aloha!.

Thanks so much, HT! Lots of great info to dig into. Thanks for the tip about adding a day more to Shiretoko and cutting one from Daitsesuzan. Will do that.

I'll read your report again (and again) to get all the details and gems.

Thanks for being so helpful!

a few Hokkaido sites you may find useful from my computer here at work:

http://www.easthokkaido.com/english/

http://onsen.u-p.co.jp/en/

http://www.neos.gr.jp/concierge/EN/en_ag_NP_hotels.htm

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-103.pdf

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-101.pdf

This one is for your other thread about what to do in Osaka

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-505.pdf

Aloha!

Hi HT,

I just re-read your koyo trip report. Excellent! It looks like we'll pretty much follow your itinerary, except for maybe skipping Kushiro (too early for cranes?) and Otaru (unless you really think they're worth it).

Question: Do you remember what rental car you got? Did it have enough power and stability to go up mountains and through mountain passes? From the map, the road to Rausu looks really winding. How was that drive? Did you go back the same way? Did you have to drive in the dark?

Our current reservation is for a Nissan March. Are you (or anyone) familiar with this? Afraid it's too tiny for the places we want to go to. Please advise, so we know whether to upgrade our car. Don't want to get stranded in the middle of no where with no cell service, no AAA, and surrounded by bears!!

Here's the wiki page on the Nissan March
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Micra


Thanks all for your help!

Yes your car looks great and you will love it! We had a similar car when we were in Hokkaido and in Kyushu this past fall. There is a picture on that trip report I did about Kyushu but I can't seem to locate right now in all the pics on the post.

The drive over the top of Rausudake(Mt Rausu) through the Shiretoko Pass is a spectacular one imho and not to be missed. Stop at the many viewpoints(especially at the summit)for spectacular scenery. The former Japanese islands located off the Kushiro coast are visible from the summit. They were taken over after WW II by Russia and are still a bone of contention between the two countries and the two have been in negotiations to return to Japan since.

The roads are modern and nicely paved so no real worries about being a frightful drive. Be sure to go all the way to the end of the road and over the little bridge to take a look in the stream to see if the salmon are running....they were when we were there. We drove back the same way over the pass as it had already been a long day with doing Shiretoko-go-ko(five lakes) earlier that morning. You are more likely to see more deer than any bear unless you take that boat cruise around the Shiretoko Nat'l Park's coastline. No, we did not have to drive the pass in the dark. We were in a ryokan hotel at the time and anxious to get back to bathe, soak and eat

Aloha!

If you go here , you can see the car we last rented similar to yours in picture # 266 and 267. Follow the link and the password is:

Fall 2011

Capital F and a space between the words.

http://hawaiiantraveler.smugmug.com/Travel/Fall-2011-in-Japan-Kyushu-and/20359156_zJzmBp#!i=1613490744&k=8NCmtNq

Aloha!

Thanks, HT, for the link. Wow, great pictures. Looks like a fantastic trip!

Do you remember which model Nissan it was? Nissan has several "small" cars. I think the March was at the tiniest end of the spectrum. It matters how big the engine is.

Thanks again!

Is there a shorter driving route from Sounkyo to Asahidake? Google map shows a roundabout road that takes 3 1/2 hours when physically on the map they look pretty close together (separated by mountain range). Maybe faster to hike over?


Any other online maps you use?

Thanks!

I always try to get at least 1000 hp in a car which is usually the second lowest price and those are plenty enough for where you will drive.

You have to drive out of Sounkyo to Kamikawa and the highway then on past Asahikawa(maybe 60-70 minutes) then another hour to Asahidake. Three and a half hours is a little much. Yes you can hike over but that would mean hiking back

Here is a hiking trail and a driving map of the area

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6777.html

On the navi link I left you above are maps of Hokkaido highways by area but of course are in Japanese. You can print out to take with you but you will have rented a car with GPS in it right?

Aloha!

Just re-read your responses, HT, and you already gave me a link to a map! Thanks!

Yes my rental was a Nissan March....1200 cc. I should have wrote cc and not hp above.

Thanks, HT! OK, I'll make sure they give me a bigger engine March. I heard the Nissan March has like 80 hp? You managed to go up the mountains in it? It doesn't feel like driving a golf cart?

Also, from your trip report, it sounds like you only stayed at Sounkyo. Did you go to Asahidake side?

Sorry for bugging you so much, but thank you very much for being so helpful. There are not much resources in English on Hokkaido, and you're the best one around I know! You can write your own guide now.

Thanks again.

No we didn't go to Asahidake as we were too pressed for time IIRC.

You will have enough hp to make it up the hills no problem. The thing to worry about in small cars is the take off as you get up to speed on the freeways but on Hokkaido this shouldn't matter as much as it would in say Tokyo or Osaka because of the lack of traffic. You will love the gas mileage and just filling up gas in Japan takes my memories back to the full service days of the US 50's and 60's.

On the Trip Advisor Hokkaido forum there is a member named Amanda who is the "Hokkaido expert" on the site and lives in Sapporo. You may want to go there for info but she also sometimes frequents this site as AmandaH.

Aloha!

Hi HT,

I'm planning to stay at Hotel Shiretoko in Utoro also. Do you know if it's possible to purchase the meals (breakfast/dinner) once we get to the hotel? Or we have to book them now? I'm using Japanican. Would it be the same price? Right now, breakfast/dinner are offered at 7000 yen extra per room (2 peoople).

We're not big eaters and so not sure we want to go for buffets. Are there decent restaurants in Utoro, esp at dinner time?

Thanks!

BTW, HT, thanks for the links, esp. the ones from JNTO with pdf files. I'm printing them out and bringing with me -- very handy and better than info in guidebooks, esp they have Japanese names for each place too! Thanks again!

Hmm... don't know why they don't have a pdf file for Daisetsuzan.

The rooms at the Hotel Shiretoko are dated and the first one we were given smelled heavily of cigarette smoke but they let us change rooms. The dinner buffets are better than the breakfast ones at this place but I had a package deal through Japanese Guest houses at that time. Yes you can buy meals at check in or just go to the dining room at meal times and they will take your money, yes probably more than your deal bought ahead of time.

http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/eastern_hokkaido/shiretoko.htm

Yes there is a place we saw in Utoro to eat adjacent to the visitor center and we ate lunch there one day. They had a small English handout menu available. Their are kani(crab) restaurants around the boat harbor bend which we also ate a lunch at. I almost inadvertently ordered the seal ramen dish thinking it was the pork ramen. Luckily a very nice younger Japanese couple heard me ordering and asked in perfect English if I really wanted the seal ramen and ordered the right one for me,lol. Beware that little or no English is spoken at the restaurants or convenience stores there. But don't let that discourage you, just be prepared.

You can eat cheaply from the 7-11 type drug store at the foot of the hill up to the hotel. I forget the name of the chain but these drug stores are all over Hokkaido. They are the Lawson's in Hokkaido and exactly like the Miyazaki stores are to Kyushu. Anyway you can get small instant package type meals there along with a few hot Japanese specialties and bento lunch boxes at lunch times. They also have beer, wines and hard liquor in these stores.

Don't leave Hokkaido without trying their Hokkaido ice cream(oishi!!!) or Hokkaido sweet corn(everything from candy to souvenirs are made out of Hokkaido corn) and the Hokkaido milk.

Aloha!

oooops almost forgot your Daisetzusan pdf's. JNTO doesn't have them but HT does, LOL......enjoy!

http://hokkaido.env.go.jp/nature/mat/park/en/daisetsu/index.html

Thanks, HT!

Question: Anyone know it's worth driving by/stopping by Biei and Furano in October (Oct 13 -- Sat). Would it still be scenic or happening at that time? I only hear of summer activities in those areas.

Otherwise, what other worthwhile places to see along the way from Asahikawa (Daitsetsuzan NP) and Sapporo? Or should we try to go to Otaru on that Saturday before checking into Sapporo? Or maybe hit another national park south of Sapporo?

Thanks!

Yes the flowers will just about all be gone in Furano and Biei but still a nice drive and there are the farms in Furano and the winery to visit. In Asahikawa there is the zoo which is supposed to be unique for its viewing options and animals mostly found in the arctic zone. Otaru is nice to visit but that is a place I would visit on the train as we saw lots of car traffic from the train on the winding road leading down the mountains towards Otaru.

If you go south of Sapporo and like onsen try to make it to Noboribetsu Onsen and the fabulous Daiichi Takimototan and its many different hot spring baths. You don't need to stay there to use the baths as you can purchase a ticket for day use only. This place has the most spectacular array of hot(and cold)spring baths I have seen in Japan and I've seen quite a few.

http://japaneseguesthouses.com/db/noboribetsu/daiichi.htm

Aloha!

just thinking that Otaru by train would be the way to go especially if you are staying at the Sheraton as the Shin-Saporro station is next door to the hotel. See this site for schedules and times www.hyperdia.com

Hi there - we visisted Hokkaido in June 2009 - we loved it! We used public transportation exclusively so we did not have as many options as you did, but we do recommend Asahidake Onsen (especially if you like to hike). We stayed at
the Daisetsu-zan Shirakabaso and recommend it highly!

http://www.hihostels.com/dba/hostels-Daisetsu-zan-Shirakabaso-YH-032078.en.htm

Questions about Daisetsuzan NP.

1) From Akan NP, we're planning to drive to Sounkyo Gorge by afternoon. See the gorge and waterfalls. Any other areas close by that are beautiful in Oct? Foliage? Then drive to Asihakawa to stay the night since it's half way to Asihadake Onsen.

2) Next morning, drive to Asihadake Onsen. Take ropeway up. Hike around up there. How hard is it to summit Asihadake? Takes 2 hours? Where to stay this night? Should we stay at Asihadake Onsen (like the hostel recommended above?) Or perhaps stay in Biei?

3) Next day, leisurely drive around Biei and Furano and check out some farms, specialty shops, etc. before heading to Sapporo.

Question: If we were to take the ropeway only once, which one should we take-- Sounkyo or Asihadake? We want to see spectacular scenery and do maybe a few hours of hiking. Would Asihadake be more risky in Oct (10/12) with snow than Sounkyo side?

Thanks!

1. The whole ride will be beautiful from Akan-ko to Sounkyo. As you get closer to Sounkyo and start your climb up the mountain range from the farmlands the contrast is striking in spots. I remember a large farmers market along the highway that is worth a pit stop as they sell lots of made in Hokkaido souvenirs and foods.

2. Never made it to Asahidake but let me know how it was when you get back. I am jealous of this trip btw

3. Sounds like a great day.

on the rope way we chose the Sounkyo one only to be rain/snowed out as they closed the ropeway that day

Aloha!

We took both the Asahidake and Sounkyou ropeways. Both were nice but the one at Asahidake had better opportunities for hiking from the top. Awesome views, too. We didn't hike to the top of the mountain (didn't have the right shoes, and there was still quite a bit of snow in June), but it looked like you could do it in about 2 hours. Go for it!

Thanks, HT and aprililacs, for your feedback! Fingers crossed for good weather. Otherwise, we might need to improvise out there.

One more thing: Whether we should try to squeeze in Noboribetsu, esp that HT raved so highly about it (I guess the Japanese also ranked it highly.) ? We have 1 more day of car rental (7 days is the same price as 6 days). Is it possible to drive from Biei / Furano down to Noboribetsu on Sat. Do the onsen, stay overnight, and drive to Sapporo on Sun? Too hectic? Or perhaps skip Biei/Furano, and stay in Asahikawa on Friday night, and take the express way to Noboribetsu on Sat to get more time in the onsen? Worth it? Or don't bother?

If we return to Sapporo on Sat night, we probably want to return our car early, as it won't be useful anymore in that area and to avoid paying for parking? Any other suggestions?

Thanks so much for all your help!!

BTW, do the driving times given by Google maps accurate? It seems to take much longer than what I see in your trip reports.

Most puzzling is the drive from Utoro to Iwaobetsu Onsen area. There's a rotenburo out there that I thought we want to check out, but for 2 1/2 miles, why does it take 45 minutes? Is the road really bad?

=====
Thank you so much to all who helped, esp. HT. Below is our revised itinerary based on your inputs:

10/8 (MON)
11:30 a.m. Arrive MMB Airport
-- Rent car. Drive to Utoro via northern route along the sea. (Still don't know whether to stop by Abashiri to see the prison.)
-- Go to Shiretoko Nature Center. Gather info for the next day. Walk to Furepe Lake. (Enough time for hike around the Five Lakes in late afternoon? Or better do it next morning--better lighting?)
-- Check into Hotel Shiretoko. Onsen. Dinner at hotel. Onsen again. (Anything to do in Utoro town at night?)


10/9 (TUE)
-- Onsen at Hotel Shiretoko
-- Breakfast at Hotel
-- Check out. Drive to Rausu
--Drive to Aidomari Onsen. Check out onsens, salmon run, town
-- Lunch in Rausu
1:30 p.m. Drive back to Utoro
-- Arrive at Utoro and check out Utoro port (or skip if no time)
-- Drive to Shari to stay the night at Hotel Grantia Shiretoko. Onsen. Dinner. (Main reason to stay here is to get 1 hour headstart the next day.)

10/10 (WED)
-- Onsen. Breakfast
7 a.m. Depart Shari and drive to Akan National Park.
-- Mashu Lake
-- Kussharo Lake (do the sand onsen thing?)
-- Lunch somewhere
-- Drive to Akan Lake and check in New Akan Hotel.
-- See Akan Lake. Ainu Village.
-- Onsen. Dinner at hotel. (Anything to do at night?)

10/11 (THUR)
-- Onsen. Breakfast at hotel.
-- 9 a.m. Depart Akan Lake and drive to Sounkyo.
1:30 p.m. Arrive Sounkyo. See gorge.
4-5:30 p.m. Drive to Asahikawa. Stay overnight.


10/12 (FRI)
8 a.m. Drive to Asihadake. (1 hrs 45 mins)
10 a.m. Asihadake
4 p.m. Leave Asahidake
Stay where? Asahikawa or Biei?

10/13 (SAT) -- Alternative 1
-- Leisurely drive from Biei, Furano to Sapporo.
-- Return car in Sapporo.

=====
10/13 (SAT) -- Alternative 2
-- Drive from Asahikawa to Noboribetsu Onsen
-- Onsen
-- Overnight in Noboribetsu.

10/14 (SUN)
-- Onsen in Noboribetsu Or sightsee.
-- Drive to Sapporo.
-- Return car.

If you do stay overnight in Noboribetsu and you want to save some money you might try what we did by staying across the street from the Daiichi Takimototan at its sister property the Takimoto Inn. The Inn is much older and spartan but the food is good, served in its small restaurant served buffet style and if you book through JGH they will give you a separate special entree that the Japanese local guests were curious about. Parking is free and they accept credit cards. The western rooms are old but comfortable and the price is great but the best thing about this place is that you can walk across the little street and use all the baths at the Daiichi Takimototan for free as the family owns both properties.

http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/noboribetsu/takimoto.htm

Whatever you decide looks like you have a trip to remember starting in a few days. The excitement level must be at a fever pitch about now, lol. Let us know how it went when you get back.

Aloha!

Must have been posting at the same time.

Anything to do in Utoro town at night?

Count the stars from the outdoor rotenburo? Not much which is why we bought a bottle of some nice French White Burgundy at the convenience store at the bottom of the hill and enjoyed after our evening soak in the hot spring bath.

Asahikawa or Biei? Asahikawa is the second largest city on Hokkaido so would have more nightlife and shopping/restaurant opportunities while Biei is a small country town limited to B&B's and a convenience store and not much else after the sun goes down but that's exactly what some people love.

Thanks for the great tips, HT!

Yet another option is to go look for the cranes after Akan Lake? Concern is it may be hard to spot them in the wild. You were lucky to see some before the thoughtless Chinese businessmen ruined the experience.

Either stay another night in Akan NP or maybe drive to Sounkyo for the night?

I don't see a boat trip out along the Shiretoko peninsular on your itinerary. Isn't that the whole point of going to Shiretoko? Google images of, say, the Kashuni Falls to see why.

Why go to Rausu then back to Utoro? Carry on to Akan-ko.

Of the lakes, the scenically most impressive is Masshu-ko (like a bigger Crater Lake).

The most interesting part of Daisetsuzan is Sounkyo (and the waterfalls) and further south (through the tunnel). You don't seem to have enough time here.

someotherguy, the boats I've checked seem to stop running at the end of Sept, and I'll be there 2nd week of Oct, unless you know of any? I'd prefer the smaller boats so you could get closer to the shore to see bears. Otherwise, not sure worth spending 1/2 a day cruising the shore and it's quite expensive too.

Is going from Rausu to Akan-ko faster? Let me check google maps. Didn't know.

Sounkyo is the most interesting part? Even Japan Guide and many others said Asahidake, that's why we're spending more time on that side.

It's good to hear some differing opinions. Welcome any other critiques. Thanks.

In Akan-ko when we were there the only evening event involved tourists gathering from the various hotels and marching altogether (with drums and torches as I recall) to the Ainu Village for shopping and performances. It was wacky, but we eventually joined in the march because it was weirdly engaging. We skipped the performances at the village, though, and just walked back to our hotel for yet another soak in the 13 different baths.

Also, while you are at Akan, think about taking a kayak or canoe trip out onto the lake, and also doing a walk in the park near the tourist office. Of course, I don't know if any of these things are still available in October--we were there in June.

If you can hook up with a boat trip to see the Shiretoko Peninsula, definitely you should do that. We didn't see any wildlife but the landscape was stunning. Check at the port--there might be something going out.

I hope you have a great trip!

Ha ha! That's hilarious about the group march! Will try to ask around for a boat tour when we get to Utoro.


Question: My DH is keen on getting back to Sapporo early (Sat night) instead of Sun night. (He flies out on Tues morning, but I have another week in Sapporo for a conference.) Is it worth keeping the car overnight on Sat? I think the Sheraton Sapporo charges 1000 yen for parking. Would the car be useful to go to other sights around Sapporo (maybe the Historical Village?)from the Sheraton or Shin-Sapporo area?


Thanks!

I was misled by Japan-Guide, too. My interpretation, after the fact, is they assume you want to hike the upper areas of the mountains and Asahidake has a useful ropeway for that purpose. I'm restricted to the lower levels these days (I'm old and I walk with a cane) and the scenery around the village is totally, utterly, uninteresting (I was into mountaineering when I was young and I know what good mountain scenery looks like). Of the other East side destinations, Tenninkyo is a much steeper road and the place looks like a dump (lots of disused buildings) but the rock scenery is more interesting (columnar basalt) and there's a decent waterfall (Hagoromo). Tokachidake, via Shirogane, is a really steep road with tight hairpins. The scenery is nothing special, but I did see fox clubs playing some sort of game with a pair of crows!

Sounkyo, on the other hand, has excellent rock scenery and two fine waterfalls. The hiking/bike trail down the river beyond the waterfalls seems to be closed (rockfall, I believe). However, the main road continues via a long tunnel and brings you to an interesting area of lakes, with the viaducts of a disused railway line adding interest (the signs have pictures so you don't need to read the Japanese). The road along Lake Shikaribetsu is very scenic. By this time, you are so far South that you can continue West to Furano.

The info place in Utoro will know what boats are still running, if any. And the hotel can book them for you. There's a guy at the Shiretoko Hotel who is totally fluent in English. He showed me astounding pictures of bears he'd take the previous day (his day off) from his car on the road to a nearby resort.

Got my East and West confused: make that "Of the other West side destinations..."

Hi all,

Just want to report that our 1 week trip in Hokkaido worked out well and we still talk about it! Thanks for all your help, esp HT! I will write more when I have some spare time. It's been really hectic since I returned -- need a nother vacation!

Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving!