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Planning for Taiwan - any comments?

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Here's my first pass at an itinerary (listing overnights) for the Taiwan leg of my RTW. Same background info as for the Japan and Korean legs: I'm early 60s, solo female. I'm not really into big cities, neon, nightlife or shopping - although I love markets. I also love mountains, waterfalls and rocky coastline, and I'm interested in architecture, religion and especially food. I prefer crafts - glass, textiles, ceramics, jewelry - to fine arts. Note that based on advice from the guidebooks I'm doing cities on the weekends and countryside during the week.

Thu Oct 21: Arrive Taipei at 11:05 am, take the train to Tainan
Fri Oct 22: Tainan
Sat Oct 23: Tainan

Sun Oct 24: Travel to Sun-Moon Lake. I considered Alishan instead, but as best I can tell the mountain railway hasn't recovered from last year's typhoon, plus it may be a bit late in the year. I'm thinking train to Chuanghua, mountain railway to Shuili, bus to Sun-Moon, although I've seen a reference to a new highway which might mean there's now a bus from Tainan - the English-language on-line transport information for Taiwan isn't nearly as good as for Japan and Korea.
Mon Oct 25: Sun-Moon Lake

Tue Oct 26: Bus to Taipei, train to Hualien
Wed Oct 27: Hualien - visit Taroko Gorge by taxi
Thu Oct 28: Hualien - visit Taroko Gorge by bus

Fri Oct 29: Train to Taipei - maybe visit hot springs at Beitou
Sat Oct 30: Taipei - museum and temple day
Sun Oct 31: Taipei - day trip to Pingxi - scenic railway and waterall
Mon Nov 1: Taipei - day trip to Jiufen and Jinguashi on the coast
Tue Nov 2: Fly to Hong Kong for R&R

Input welcome! Especially regarding Sun Moon Lake, or an alternative - I've read that it's getting a great many visitors this year.

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