Nywoman goes solo in Laos

I'm so glad that LP has retained its magic! We loved the place!

The monasteries all over SE Asia are the places that feed and clothe the poor. You may remember during the horrible typhoon in Burma, the people who could congregated at the monasteries and the monks distributed what they had.

I'll be interested in how you feel about the Pak Ou caves. We loved them, but some people find them a disappointment.

Thanks for that report, nywoman.
Yes, sadly, the 'tak bat' ritual has become somewhat of a spectacle in the peninsula. If you have a chance, try heading into a more Lao residential neighborhood such as around Vat Mano or Vat That Luang for a different perspective.

Looking forward to more reports. Anyways, enjoy Luang Prabang.

Sorry Kathy,
The caves are not part of my plans. So far haven't met anyone who really liked them. Tomorrow cooking class at Tamarind. Friday slow boat up river.

Hi Ny. Here I am, hiding in your shoe. Just bum around in town. Slowly, slowly, catchee Luang Prabang. That's basically it. When you get bored go to waterfalls - or not. Don't go up the hill when the tour groups do.

I totally agree. LP is unique. Wandering around is a joy. Make sure you try some River Weed. We looked at the Apsara and really liked it. The location is perfect. Let us know how the cooking class went.

I want to go to LP, NY makes it sound so fab!!

Smeagol-it really is as wonderful as NY and everyone says. IMHO, it is much better than Chiang Mai.

We loved LP - are you still heading to Vientiane and Luang Namtha? If so, I look forward to hearing about them as we have been to neither.

Relishing every word! Please keep us up to date on the adventure!

Better than a travel magazine . . .
Keep up the reports. Sounds terrific and, where can we get some of that moonshine?

Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.

When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.

Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.

As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.

It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.

Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.

Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.

The first afternoon after I had arrived in L.P. I checked out a few cooking schools. None which sounded too appealing. I had run into Joy at the market as he was taking students around, had also read about the Tamarind classes. It really was a no brainer, we met at the Tamarind restaurant all in all there were 9 of us. First we went to the Phoisy market where Joy, that was his name, explained different ingredients as well as showing us different meats including dried rodent.

After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.

On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.

As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.

Ahhh, just delicious Ny, just beautiful. Thank you.

Great trip report. Pls keep the travelogue coming. It is terrific to read.

I'm also following along and looking forward to more.

My favorite travel friend and I are coming to Laos in July for 2 weeks, we're really enjoying your reports. Please, keep them coming.

Thank you,
Sandy (in Denton)

Glad that you enjoyed the cooking classes at Tamarind. As far as the food is concerned, it is the sort of restaurant you can find in many western countries, serving Laos food "tuned down" for western palates. That's fine if you enjoy it, and many westerners do, but just be aware that you are not eating real Lao food. Those of us who live here have grown accustomed to authentic food; my wife, (Lao), won't have a bar of Tamarind any more. Tamnak Lao is authentic on the other hand.
If you want great western food, I suggest you try L'Elephant.

Really enjoying your report

October 19
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.

On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.

As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.

On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.

After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.

By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.

One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.

At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.

We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.


All I know is that this is a wonderful moment in time.

Vientianboy,
I was basically relating my experience at a most professionally run cooking school. As far as authentic, that is a very big word to use in any context.

Tamnak Lao may be the "best restaurant" their Laab had too much fish sauce in my opinion. If that is how it should be I don't like it. I have had some very good food which has suited my palate, none was Western, for that I use my own kitchen

Fantastic report, loving the details.

Nywoman,

After reading about your recent food experiences and comments I have no doubt you know your laab!

This is such a wonderful report.
There's a beautiful calm energy floating out of every word.

Wonderful report, nywoman. You are truly enjoying your trip.

You epitomize what travel is all about...thank you for sharing it with us. I can sense your enjoyment of life and what travel brings to it.

Keep up the good work

I'm floating along the river with you!

Thanks for the report on the Nam Ou River trip, nywoman. It truly is very scenic and beautiful, especially the section between Nong Khiaw and further north of Moung Ngoi up to Sop Jamm.

Umm, do you mind if I raise a rather unpleasant subject. Since you were recently in Moung Ngoi, did you happen to hear of an incident that occured in early October involving a female traveler. I'm just trying to verify whether this incident actually occured and am wondering if there was any mention of such while you were there.
Thanks.

We were there last week and didn't hear anything.
Muang Ngoi seemed a bit deserted at the time. Kayaked the stretch of river from Sop Jamm down to Muang Ngoi--lovely place and nice way to see it.

Thanks CubeNY!
Oh, btw, who is offering the kayak trips to Sop Jamm? Is it a guided excursion from M. Ngoi? That's a great way to go since you're able to stop and visit caves or other destinations en route.

"I was basically relating my experience at a most professionally run cooking school. As far as authentic, that is a very big word to use in any context."

NYW, As I said in my post, if you enjoyed the food, that's fine. Others who want a truly authentic experience should be aware that Tamarind is not truly authentic.
"Authentic" is not really a "big word" when it comes to Lao people who have worked in restaurants commenting on the food - in this case my wife.

Didn't hear of any incidence. However that doesn't mean anything since the only tourists I met were the people on my boat and another couple who stayed at the same guest house. Arrived fairly late and left early next morning.

Did my usual stroll around the market but didn't meet any other tourists. Yes it seemed very deserted, and not very welcoming.

Am now in Luang Nam Tha after an 8 hour bus trip. Had a delicious noodle soup for breakfast and am not quite sure how to spend the rest of my day, probably the market.

NYWoman: the absolute last thing you should be is frustrated with how you and your body are handling this trip. From your description its quite likely few of us would have started trekking up and over the water buffalo paths in search of a jungle waterfall. That you have embarked on this great adventure is itself simply terrific. Your posting is great. Continued good travels.

And yes, NYwoman does indeed know her larb.

It is 6 am in Muang Khua, the dogs are already fighting and the roosters want everybody to know that it is time to wake up. Am staying at the Namou (their spelling) guest house for 40.000 kip or $5. Hot water shower, when the electricity is on. The hill up from the boatlanding is very steep and though my suitcase only weighs 13 kilos it is still very hard going. Fortunately I saw a young man with a pushcart and asked if he would take my luggage. He agreed but rather than the pushcart he carried the bag up the hill.

Checked out the Hotel and it looked dismal so continued onwards, towards Namou. Fortunately when I got to the market the daughter of the owner was there and helped me with my bag, down impossible stone stairs and steps that for me were very hard to maneuver, with my bag and knapsack. The room is fine with a lovely view overlooking the river. As this place was also written up as having good food, the rest of the people from the boat, a couple I met in cooking class and a another couple were all in the dining area when it was dinnertime, again I had company while eating.

My original tentative plan was to go to Phonsalan, since it was supposed to be a magnificent landscape and a beautiful drive there. After speaking to a few people I changed my mind. Opted instead to go to Luang Nam Tha, where it seemed more things to see and do. The bus left at 8.30 for Udomxai which was a 4 hour ride to be continued by another 5 hours on a different bus. There were 5 of us making this trip, I had to go to the bathroom in Udomxai, when I came out they had already boarded the bus, my bag was on top of the roof, and the ticket seller tells me the bus is full I have to wait until tomorrow. There is no way I am going to be left behind, which I inform him, and all of a sudden there is space for me. This bus ride is like everything I have read about but never experienced. There are at least 7 large sacks of rice on the floor, a few boxes behind the driver that some young men are sitting on. There are fold down seats between the rows, and I get the one in front, which is fine since I can stretch my legs.
What We didn't expect was the bus stopping on the road and picking up more people. In the end it was literally standing room only. Had managed to buy a few apples and a bamboo stick filled with sweet coconut sticky rice. It was actually a fine lunch.

The ride was gorgeous, at first following the river Nam Phak then over mountains, with incredible views of rice paddies in valleys and villages on the roadside. Our driver liked his music at a certain level, while not quite driving like a car thief which made the drive a little more adventuresome, especially where there was roadwork going on and trucks had to pass. It was really not a bad experience, much better than what I had anticipated. There were several small children on the bus, who never made a squeak. One little boy was very busy with the Smiley face stickers I had given him, another little girl she was only 17 months and had very bad boils on her neck, was petrified of me and kept her face averted the whole time. Her father who spoke very good English explained he had to take her to Udomxai because the hospital in Luang Nam Tha was not as good. He showed us where he worked at the Post Office which was several miles from where he lived. He stayed there Mon-Fri and came home on weekends, he also pointed out his house before he got off.

Luang Nam Tha is really very nice, there are a lot of guest houses and internet places. It is hard to tell how many tourists are really here since most probably opt for Treks, Bike rides, Kayaking or Self guided motorbike trips, which all take place during the day. I saw a total of 3 westerners at the market this morning. Am staying at Zuela Guest House, which is in the center of town. A nice large room with hot water shower for 50.000 kip or $6. Unfortunately their restaurant is closed for restoration. It may not be the most pittoresque town I have ever been to, actually it reminds me very much of southern Chile, but it is nice and people seem very welcoming.

This morning I went to the market after having had a wonderful noodle soup similar to Pho, on my way there I checked a few agencies to see if I could do a boatride to visit some minority villages. It became quite costly as I would be alone, and since I am leaving for Muang Sing in the morning, which is smack in the middle of minorities, hopefully I will get to see some villages. While on my way also stop by Laos Air to check on my flight, which has been cancelled due to lack of passengers. This means I will have one more day in the north and one day less in Vientiane. Am promised a flight out on Monday, will thus be able to catch my Tuesday flight to Bangkok.

Walk by several stores where they are making flower bouquets using mainly red roses, can not find out what is going on but it is obviously something special since these are not flowershops.

The market, what a wonderful market, rows of women selling ready to eat food, 60% which I couldn't identify. No problem I was given tastes as I went along. Ended up for a while sharing snails with one of the stall keepers and her friend. I have had snails in black bean sauce, these were the same small variety but with a wonderful bite and flavor to them. Hope to get the recipe one way or another. At another stall I tasted jellied pigs feet, again a very sophisticated mix of flavors. There were also mini cucumbers cooked with their vines and flowers in a slight chili sauce. Later in the day I returned and bought full size portions together with some sticky rice. I am given chop sticks a place to sit and made very comfortable. A delicious lunch for less than $1 it was perfect. Have walked the entire market, it is large. Am unable to find pants, that are not jeans, or in heavier materials, suppose I will have gto wait until Bangkok, so get ready to leave.

Across the street, in front of a large hotel advertising a special rate of 80 Yuan a night, young girls are setting up stalls with floral wreaths made of orchids, flower bouquets with stuffed animals.and now I really need to know what that something special is, Today is school graduation and the festivities are happening at the hotel. Or at least some of them. The skies have opened up and I take a tuk Tuk back to the hotel for a nap, since last night was pretty sleepless. Tonight is dinner at the Boat Landing will report later.

Vientianeboy,

What are the possibilities that your wife has the recipe for the snails? This are something that I would love to reproduce in NYC,
and should be able to fairly easily I think.

Excellent report. I am glad you're enjoying the food and bravo for trying everything!

OK, Fanny has tried to trick us by breaking up her trip report into location specific segments. We're not falling for it. Some of us are too clever (by half). It goes without saying that because the reports are contemporaneous, they are timely and no penalty applies. I also not that she has risen above the fray and not been bogged down in an endless dispute over her choice of LP cooking schools. I'm not sure that I could have done this. Bravo.

Fanny, we had considered visiting northern Laos before deciding on Varanasi and Kathmandu for next February. From reading your report so far, I think we made the right decision. However, I am thoroughly enjoying traveling vicariously with you and sharing in your experiences. While traveling on crowded buses, eating street food and staying in $5/night guest houses are out of my comfort zone, I can appreciate that this style of travel really works for you.

Thanks for the info about Moung Ngoi, NYwoman. And also for the report between Muang Khua and Namtha. I'm sorry about the Lao Airline flight cancellation but unfortunately, they do cancel on very short notice for some of their less used routes. If it's not too late, you could still exit back out to Thailand by taking the morning bus from Namtha to Huay Xai and hop a short boat ride across the Mekong to Chiang Khong Thailand which is only 2.5 hours from Chiang Rai and closer to 5.5 hours to Chiang Mai (budget flights back to Bangkok). Anyways, hope it all works out well for you and have a safe trip.

I'm really enjoying your adventure!

fanny---great report..

we are by the sea side in south africa and laos seems a million miles away...

anxious to read more

bob

Your report is a wonderful breath of fresh air. You went off the beaten path all by yourself. What a brave New York woman! i envy your courage for going to remote places. You are an inspiration.

RE: snails in black bean sauce. You can find the same dish in most cantonese restaurants in Chinatown.

If this is what you are referring to :http://www.flickr.com/photos/wwny/3463102663/

if you want to make it yourself, just get the readily available blackbean garlic sauce from any grocery store. I like the brand 'Lee Kum Kee' but there are many out there.

Looking forward to more.

Forgot to give you the recipe. It is so simple. You will need a Chinese wok for this. First turn on high heat, drizzle some peanut oil (olive oil is fine), throw in several cloves of garlic, add the black bean sauce (caution:it is very strong tasting) and snails, keep turning everything in a fast motion for several minutes. When it's done depending on how much snails.

You can scope out the snails and add wine to deglaze the wok (chinese restaurants add cornstarch to thicken) and pour it over the snails. The secret is to work out the proportion as to how much black bean sauce to how much snails.

Once you get used to the taste of black bean sauce, you can apply on fish and practically anything. It works best on shellfish. You can wow lots of friends with this secret weapon.

Enjoy!

fanny--- whip that up for us tonight and i will bring gpanda over

I was waiting for an authentic Laotian Hoi Khom recipe but I guess we will never know that. mohan's Chinese version does sound delicious!

Great trip report. Not many people have the courage to travel in the remote countryside.

mohan's recipe can apply to anything -- chicken, turkey (minced), pork, beef, lamb, prawns, crab, and the best is lobster in balck bean sauce!

Chinese is at the bottom rung of Asian foods, imo.

mango, you haven't tried REAL Chinese then. We ate at a real out of the way place in Bangkok and it was sooooo good. I'm used to USA style Chinese food with all the MSG. There is no comparison to the real thing. Give it a try.

NYwoman, you are a brave soul for trying all those foods you could not identify. Good for you!!! Keep on travelling!

I'm on my way to BKK right now, will be there in about 9 hours. Are you heading to BKK anytime soon? I'll be in the city for 12 days.

Carol

Hi Carol, I'll take your word for it! You'll NEVER catch me eating chinese in Thailand..never- unless no choice. I don't fly for 40 hours to eat substandard food..There are too many fabulous flavors to be experienced there. Also, I've never been to chinatown in Bkk.. and never will. Its completely illogical.

Am about to publish my next chapter. I think I sort of got the recipe for the Lao snails. Will endeavor to try to replicate when I get back.

Carol I will be in Bangkok either Sunday or Monday depending on how much I like Vientiane. Let me know how I can get in touch with you.

It is so interesting how things happen in an instant. I was supposed to meet up with this couple to go for dinner at the Boat Landing. They were nowhere to be found, decided to go by myself and was unable to get a Tuk Tuk. It is too far out of town. Finally returned to Zuela , and asked for a good Lao restaurant. They sent me to Panda, where I ended up having a fantastic evening.

It was completely deserted when I arrived, looked at the menu and could not see anything that was not Western, finally I asked, and the owner/chef pointed to 3 dishes with coconut. I ordered the coconut fish and was already regretting my decision to stay, so sure that whatever I would get would be a watered down version, since the entire menu was totally non-Lao. Instead I was served one of the most delicious versions ever. While I am eating my fish, a group of five arrive and sit at the table behind me. After a while I hear guitar playing, I half turn and the two older men are playing guitars and I presume singing folk songs. The older of the two speaks very good English and points out this young, quite made up woman as his wife. The young man across the table is his son from his old wife, whom he divorced to marry this young girl, they now have 3 children.

Trophy wives are obviously not alien in this part of the world either. She is younger than the son, who is there with his fiancee. After awhile and many Lao Beers later a Country Western CD is produced and everybody gets up to dance, what started out one way ended totally unexpected. It was a fun evening, and everyone who knows me know how I love to dance.

Check out of Zuela and catch the mini bus to Muang Sing the journey is mountainous through dense forests. Unfortunately large tracts have been denuded by loggers, though there are signs of reforestation taking place. I arrive in Muang Sin after 1 ½ hours, and am very disappointed by what I see. In my guide book it is described as a supremely picturesque village, I suppose guide book writers can take poetic license. There is nothing particularly attractive about this village. The guest house I check into is lovely and the room as luxurious and as attractive as the Apsara $12 a night. Now I enquire about treks, I know that there are some one day easy walking and also a one day with Tuk Tuk. However since I am alone the price is double, I decide that I'm here so might as well go for it. I don't have enough cash and there is NO ATM, what to do? When in doubt go and eat, which is exactly what I do at Taileu Guesthous which is the only place in town, and one of the few in the country that serve indigenous northern cuisine. This according to my not very reliable guide book. Finally I got to taste fresh spring rolls that were delicious. After lunch I walk around trying to see if I have some options here, since I am not in love with the place, and don't have enough cash for a trek, decide to go back to Luang Nam Tha in the morning. Will check out the Boat Landing and stay there if they have rooms.

Apart from Luang Prabang and Luang Nam Tha I have probably stayed in the most upscale places available. My mode of travel, apart from hiring private transportation, is what has been available. Perhaps not what I would have selected if given a choice beforehand, but I am very glad to have experienced it. So how do I like it so far? It is a beautiful country, but I don't think it is a place to travel on your own unless you are a trekker and /or a backpacker. As much as I love nature I much prefer places where I can see things and interact with people. To me Laos is much more about discovering nature, and less about the places. The people are very nice, and pleasant if a little reserved. Except of course in the markets, where I find the women very outgoing and anxious to share, this is very much the case in most markets though. Maybe it takes a certain personality to be a market vendor, and it meshes with my own?

After another sleepless night I leave for the bus stop, get a lift with a local bus and arrive at 7 am for a 8 am bus. There are already bags claiming most of the seats, I put my bag on one of the unclaimed ones and head for the market and breakfast. The market is hopping and true to my information there are several women from the mountain tribes both selling and purchasing, the head gears are amazing on some of them, and the embroideries most intricate.This is the closes I will get and it is OK, had fantasies of exploring the villages but had selective inattention in my prior resarch. Breakfast is Pho and back to the bus and Luang Nam Tha.

First order of business, LaoAirlines, there is a flight the next day which I book, since my tickets are Discover Pass I can change flights without penalties. I check into the Boat Landing which is very lovely with beautifully landscaped gardens full of butterflies. The rooms are indivual cottages with porches overlooking the Nam Tha river. Since this is an ecological place the water is solar heated, which means cold showers. My room rate is $35 including a scrumptious breakfast The people are very nice, the young man who shows me my room asks “Do you have my husband?” I can honestly say “No”.

It is very far from town just by the airport, a lovely place to chill out if you need that, or as a base for treks. The food is good, the Chicken Laab excellent, Morning Glory Salad has a sweet mustard mayonnaise dressing,not great, Stir Fried Pork is good, not outstanding. Am fortunate in that I share my meal with two young men from California and end up having a very nice evening. Have a great nights rest and wake up to a pleasantly cool morning.

Am looking forward to my reactions to Vientiane. Arrived tonight and what little I have seen I like.

Sorry for hijacking your thread, Nywoman. Glad you're having a memorable time!

FOLLOWING ALONG FROM SOUTH AFRICA... SEE YOU IN BKK

We haven't yet been to Vientiane, so I'm very interested in your reactions.

It's no surprise that you had a wonderful time at a restauramnt naed Panda. This is a great report. We are all following along breathlessly.

We are all hoping you find the holy grail in the next installment: a hot shower.

Fascinating read. Continued good travels.

I like Vientiane, of course I would, being this contrary person that I am. Have had a lovely hot shower. Will try to write up a report tonight in my room and post tomorrow. If all goes according to plan I will be on a plane tomorrow evening for Bangkok.

Kathie you will love Vientian loads of temples one has over 10.000 buddahs and I saw most of them.

Wow, what an incredible report, thanks for sharing! I'm a Brooklyn woman and couldn't imagine going to those types of places - you are quite brave, I think....

NYO--did you participate in any line-dance with the Lao family at Panda's in Namtha?
Thanks again for the write up.

Never got to do the write up. Am still in Vientiane, and am waitlisted for Bangkok, have found the greatest guide. I know you never thought you would hear that out of my mouth. He is fantastic and will post name etc when I get to write about my experiences here.

Seagypsy no linedancing, I am totally uncoordinated when it comes to that. Just good old fashioned bumping around.

Bob when I get to a proper fast computer will get to Africa Forum and read all about your trip.

Everyone keep your fingers crossed that next youy hear from me it will be from Bangkok.

Hi Nywoman. I'm really glad you liked Vientiane. I love being there although most people seem to think it boring - can't think what they do to think that! Its grown a lot over the years I've been visiting like everywhere in Lao has, but its still great. Did you get to Makphet restaurant?

VIENTIANE

The Boat Landing was probably a novelty when it first opened up, and am sure that it still is in many ways. It is a lovely remote place, don't know how it was when the original owners and builders ran it.
Now it is as I wrote a place to chill out, or be picked up by a car for a trek.

Our flight was over an hour delayed getting into Vientiane, couldn't really see much as it was getting dark. Took a taxi to Mali Namphu guesthouse, on the recommendation of my friend Sue. The taxis are a fixed price from the airport $6 or $8 for a van.
The GH could offer me a single room for 1 night $22 which was fine, the next night I moved to a twin bedded room off the garden for $30.

The GH is very near to the main tourist drag and as I walked to an Internet Cafe, I see these buffet tables in the middle of the sidewalk. A new Cafe opened that day and anyone who walked by was invited to partake of the food and soft drinks being offered. There were quite an array of different hors d'oeuvres, some better than others. Quite the opening feast, which meant that I didn't need to have dinner that night. Internet here is very slow, but you can prepay 2 hours for a little less than $1 or pay 100 kip a minute which comes to about 75 cents an hour.

The front desk man, Phan, who checked me in wears many hats, he offered to take me on a guided tour the next day together with 2 Japanese gentlemen for $30. Since as a rule I avoid guides, from my less than wonderful experiences last year I was very hesitant to accept the offer. Now I am so glad that I relented, in the end, there is no way that I would have covered as much ground and seen as much on my own.

Phan's English is excellent and he is a very good guide, when he offered to take me to different markets the following day, his day off I didn't hesitate for a second.

We started out by going to Buddah Park, built by a religious fanatic in the late 50's. He apparently studied under a Hindu rishi in Vietnam, as well as being a priest and a monk. The place is absolutely fantastic and in many ways quite beautiful. There is a huge reclining Buddah and many, many other statues. The builder of the park was forced to leave Laos, and settled in the Thai town of Nong Khai where he built another park. We then went to see the Friendship bridge that connect Thailand to Lao. Stopped at the convention center, where a trade show was being set up, bought some drinks at the super market inside the center. Then came time for the real meaty stuff, I think we covered every temple in town. Phan really wanted us to see the Lao Nationa Museum but we were all sight-seeinged out.

Phan as out guide was called took us to a Lao restaurant where we had a delcious lunch of fresh and fried springrolls, as well as rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, mint, noodles and grilled pork, all of this was washed down with Beer Lao. Lunch for the 4 of us came to $18 including many beers and a large bottle of water.

When we returned to the Guesthouse a large stage was being erected on the street with a sign “Luxe Grand Opening” there was this tiny little shop that was opening with such an extravaganza. After having rested for awhile, before joining the festivities, which I had been invited to partake in. I stood on the street and marveled at how the whole thing had been put together. The guests arrived carrying very elaborate flower baskets, hostess dutifully was photographed with each guest. The women for the most part were very dressed up. The show started with two women singing and dancing to a record, then a mistress of ceremonies and someone else came onstage and never stopped talking. The ribbon cutting ceremony took place while they were still gabbing on. Then came the highlight THE FASHION SHOW. Most of the things seemed to be made for Lolitas, thigh high stockings with shorts and ridiculously high heels, or long flowing night gowns with huge floppy strawhats. I am sure that it is very fashionable in Tokyo or Vientiane.


After a a couple of tea sandwiches decided it was time for dinner, this time I thought I wanted something Western to eat, and walked into a very busy outdoor restaurant, unfortunately didn't take the name down, it is past the Scandinavian Bakery close to Green Discovery. There didn't seem to be any tables available so I sat at the bar. Within two minutes a young German girl asked if I wanted to join her. Had one of the best Chicken Laab ever, nothing else appealed to me. Dagmar and I ended up having a delightful evening and she happily joined me in the following days schedule.

I had spent most of Saturday trying to get through to Lao airlines to change my ticket to return to Bangkok Sunday afternoon, was never able to get through. Sunday morning Phan drove me to the airport, where I was reassured that they “always” had no shows. After having spent most of the day visiting various markets including the Morning Market, which is a shopping mall, as well as the National Museum, and killing a few hours sitting by the Mekong drinking beer went out to the airport, and of course everybody had shown up for the flight.

Checked into the Lao Paris hotel which is quite lovely with a nice room for $25 and being picked up at 6 am for a confirmed flight.

"After a a couple of tea sandwiches decided it was time for dinner, this time I thought I wanted something Western to eat, and walked into a very busy outdoor restaurant, unfortunately didn't take the name down, it is past the Scandinavian Bakery close to Green Discovery. There didn't seem to be any tables available so I sat at the bar. Within two minutes a young German girl asked if I wanted to join her. Had one of the best Chicken Laab ever, nothing else appealed to me."

That sounds like Khop Chai Deu, one of the most popular Vientiane restaurants.

So it was. Went back for dinner tonight, had steak which was good if not outstanding, but this reastaurant is solid, if not inspiring. Sometimes that is all you need.

So Chicken Laab is a western dish? I guess SEA is west of NYC, but it still seems strange.

Please don't come home . . . I don't want your trip to end, better reading than a novel! You are my hero!

Sandy (in Denton)

NY woman, are you in BKK now? Without reading the last section of your trip report, I note that you were hoping to fly to BKK on Sunday afternoon.


Would love to meet, as I am in BKK right now, and will be here until November 3. I won't be here for the GTG later on in November.
Carol

Hi,

Thanks for your report. Just keep it coming. Very glad to learn from each experience.

Cheers

Hi Carol,
Arrived in Bangkok this morning, Monday. Am free tomorrow early evening, I think, if that works for you. Am staying at a friend's house. Let me know where you are and I will call you.

Panda,
Last I heard a woman was allowed to change her mind, which is what I did.

Role-model, heroine, life mentor and scribe:

Vivat Vivat Nywoman! This post is an object example to all of us. I can't wait to see how this travel style translates to Burma.

All we can do is genuflect and marvel at the Power of One.

Like the Dogster, I am awaiting the Burma portion of this adventure. It keeps getting better and better.

NYwoman, I'm off to Chiang Mai tomorrow (just for the day) but will be back in BKK very late in the evening. I am here for another week. I am staying on Sukhumvit soi 8 at the Adelphi Suites. When do you leave BKK?

Carol