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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 10:45 AM
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Northern India

I have the following proposal from COMPASS INDIA INC.
Delhi-Mandawa by ROAD
Mandawa-Bikaner by ROAD
Bikaner-Jaisalmer by ROAD
Jaisalmer-Jodhpur, stopover Ossian by ROAD
Jodhpur-Udaipur by ROAD
Udaipur-Jaipur by overnight TRAIN (UDZ GWL SUP EXP)
Jaipur-Agra, stopover Fatehpur Sikri by ROAD
Agra-Jhansi by TRAIN Shatabdi Express to see Orchha
Jhansi-Khajuraho by ROAD
Khajuraho-Varanasi by AIR (Jet Airways)
Varanasi-Delhi by overnight TRAIN (SHIV GANGA EXP)

First half of January 2010
Chevrolet Tavera
Customized, Private, Exclusive Tour, eliminate-add as desired.
4 star hotel: $1700pp, 5Star: $2000pp
14 Hotel nights, 2 overnite Trains.

I like the idea of roads better than flying and would even prefer trains over roads but I hear conflicting about shoddy roads and milk run trains.



Thank You.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 11:31 AM
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Well you've picked a good time of year, and Compass is a reputable company, but....Do you like looking at countries through glass? Because that's how you'll be seeing India on this trip. Mind (and bottom) numbing hours and hours of driving, never more than an overnight and a few hours of sightseeing in each town....

I'd cut half the towns in this itinerary, or at least fly/train to the outer Jaisalmer, Varanasilimits of your route, then work your way back to delhi in the middle. The trains in Northern India are great and cheap, but can only go so fast and tend to run late. Roads, even those in great shape are often slow due to volume of trucks, carts, cars, animals or accidents. I understand not wanting to fly every place, but in a country as big as India, sometimes it can be a real time saver to make the best use of your time.

The good news is that the prices look attractive. I'm wondering though, at $250 per day ($4000 total over 16 nights) which 5* hotels are you looking at?

From my experience, a real 5* in India will be at minimum about $150. In Agra in n January the 5* Amarvillas is $575, the ITC Mughal is $190. Plus 10 or 12% tax.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 12:16 PM
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You confirm what I have heard about the roads in India so my idea of seeing the real countryside involves pot holes, exhaust fumes, traffic and too much time wasted road tripping. Their 5 star in Agra is TAJ VIEW, Udaipur & Jaipur=Trident Jaisalmer=Fort Rajwada, etc. As alternative, I'll have to pick any of the plethora of agencies out there I guess. My musts are: Jaipur, Varanasi,Jodhpur, Udaipur, Agra & Khajuraho, with interest in Ranakpur as well. I want all India transportation, tour guide, small or private tour, hotels, but meals not necessary. Thanks for your input.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 01:09 PM
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Well, sorry Icuy, I have to disagree with your characterization of driving. We just LOVED road tripping in India. Yes, it can be pretty crazy sometimes, but the roads were not nearly as bad as we had been led to believe. They weren't super highways, but outside of a very few rough areas they were fine. Plus, we were free to stop whenever we wanted. Of course, it helps to have a decent-sized car (we had a Toyota Inova van) and a good driver. Our route was train from Mumbai to Ahmedabad then car to Udaipur to Jodhpur to Jaisalmer to Bikaner to Shekawati to Jaipur to Agra. From Agra to Jhansi we took the train upon our driver's advice, since that particular road isn't the best. Then we met up with the driver and drove to Orchha and on to Khajuraho. Flew to Varanasi then to Kathmandu and back to Delhi and on to Mumbai for our flight home. (See my trip report if you want to read about our experiences http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-travelawg.cfm) Driving gets you into the Indian experience -- seeing the gorgeous fields, the ladies in colorful saris walking by the side of the roads with bundles of sticks or pots on their heads -- yes, we did see the camel carts and cows and sheep herds and monkeys, too, but we enjoyed that. We didn't have any problem with exhaust fumes. We were delayed once for a couple of hours by an accident (in over 3 weeks of driving). It was interesting to go to the train station, and you should try to do that at least once -- it's another quintessential Indian experience. That said, if you have limited time, then fly. Kingfisher or Jet are great airlines and the prices are fairly reasonable. Flying works, but if you want to get down into the culture more I would consider the car or a combo of the car and train. Just my opinion.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 03:36 PM
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travelaw, I didn't say anything negative about driving.

What I said is that he has a long drive on nearly every day, and only one night in each town. With so much of his time spent in transport and so little time in each location, it may be hard for convert94 to actually have time to get out in the towns and walk and enjoy being in India.

I suggested C94 re-think the itinerary and use a mix of planes trains and automobiles to maximize his time in each city.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 05:02 PM
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I rode an A/C van from Alexandria to Cairo and it was wonderful. Mostly divided highway but the donkey carts traveling on the shoulder, people darting accross here and there, produce fields, tiny roadside mosques, it was all very interesting to me and that is the kind of experience I am looking for. Once in the various towns, I can see the major attractions, mingle with the regulars for a few hours and get a good nights sleep. My ideal would be a mix of train and van and maybe air when it is absolutely necessary. I am under no time contraints. Thanks for this lively conversation, it's exactly what I need.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2009, 05:35 PM
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Some of the destinations you have by road would drive me to suicide. They are LONG and even in an SUV, can be overly tiring.

Take SOME road trips, but IMO keep them in the less than 4 hour category.

Also, avoid driving outside city limits once it gets dark. It's just safer in daylight.
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Old Jul 24th, 2009, 09:44 PM
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Your tour itinerary includes none of the luxury fort-palaces, Rajasthan is so famous for. The locations & traditions of some of these properties are terrific!
Rajasthan is certainly not all about cities. The heart of this colourful state beats in the rural areas, far from the hustle & bustle of commerce. The roads by and large are good too. These properties are run by the erstwhile feudatory chiefs & you will get a personalized service. The interaction around an evening bonfire are some of the memories of your vacation, you shall cherish & take back!
As you intend travelling in the first half of January, the days are small & therefore, keep your distances short. Icuy's contention carries much weight. The foggy conditions will not help either for your trains will be delayed possibly by hours & some of the inland flights may also be affected!
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Old Jul 25th, 2009, 10:31 AM
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I see one person traveling at $2000 private tour 5 star accom for 14 days... where did $4000 come from?

I see 24 hours driving - yes, TWENTY-FOUR HOURS DRIVING time in the first four days. From the Compass Tours site:

Delhi – Mandawa :250 km/6 hr
Mandawa – Bikaner :180 km/4 hr
Bikaner – Jaisalmer :330 km/5 hr
Jaisalmer – Jodhpur :330 km/6 hr

Yes, I know it adds up to less. When you get there you'll see why I added the extra hour each drive. I gave up after that. It's just stupid.

If time is not a problem, why on earth are you doing this to yourself? Do the same itinerary, take six weeks. Do what the esteemed j.p recommends. Go see Rajasthan rural.

For example: Let's just take the stretch between Jodhpur and Udaipur:
http://rohetgarh.com/
http://www.nivalink.com/sardarsamand/index.html
http://www.karnihotels.com/kk_about.htm
http://www.jojawar.com/
http://www.deogarhmahal.com/
http://www.rawlanarlai.com/
http://www.nivalink.com/fatehbagh/index.html
http://www.deviresorts.com/

I could go on... let's hear from the O.P.
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Old Jul 25th, 2009, 11:22 AM
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I always enjoy reading "doctor on call" as one of the hotels' attractions.
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Old Jul 25th, 2009, 01:22 PM
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Convert94, you say you are under no time constraints. If that is so, your trip would be SO much better if you could add at least couple of weeks to your itinerary -- if not, I would cut out at least the Mandawa to Jaisalmer portion of the trip -- and posible the Jhansi to Khajuraho portion. Those places are well worth visiting, but as others have pointed out, require far too much travel in too short a time period to make it worth it. You will be exhausted.

Sorry I misinterpreted your post Icuy -- looks like C94 may have too, and I was more reacting to that. I apologize -- your point about long drives and little time is well taken.

Having done most of the drives that are on this itinerary just last December, I would say that the Compass drive times are pretty accurate, including stops for eating lunch or snacks and side trips. Even so, bottom line is that the pace is too frantic -- either slow it down dramatically or cut some destinations.
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Old Jul 25th, 2009, 02:33 PM
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Dog- Compass usually charges for 2, so I was guessing two people x $2000 or $4,000.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2009, 06:49 AM
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Covert
cannot comment on the first part of your itinerary but would definitely not do so many destinations in one trip.

200-250kms/day means 5 - 6 hrs of driving!

I LOVED the driving portions despite some legs were nerve wrecking but no pot holes etc. Just cattle, rickshaws, people, goats, buses, lorries and cars in the roads - ALL AT THE SAME TIME in the same line - in the middle mostly ;-)

Make sure you book A/C first class private berth cabin and you will be fine! We road the same Express train from Agra to Jansi but in the morning. It took us roughly 3 hrs and the ride was very interesting and pleasant (they even served a meal!) seeing all these tiny villages flying by.

Train at night: We did the Delhi-Ranthambore leg which took almost 6 hrs. Needless to say we didn't see anything - also because the missed to clean the window from the outside ;-)
We got crisp linen and pillows.

Actually travel was quite nice..............

But be aware of travelling/driving hours. Don't ruin you trip by covering too many sites and roads.

Our "expertise" is based on only one trip which we did last June

Happy travels!

SV
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