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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 05:39 AM
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Myanmar: Anyone traveled to Mrauk U ?

Hi Asia group friends. Been missing you! I've been traveling other places, but I'm now back to may favorite part of the world--Asia.

I'm heading to Myanmar in February with a ten other photographers on a photography-tour. It's a two week journey hitting all the major spots and some off the beaten track. (Going with "Luminous Journeys": here is the itinerary http://snips.ly/myanmar)

It is the "off the beaten track" places I would like some advice on. We are spending three days in Rachine State, including Sittwe, Mrauk U and the Chin Villages. The US State Dept has no warnings on Myanmar at all. However, the UK and Australia have strong warnings "avoid all but essential travel to Rakhine State" and "reconsider your travel". Although I consider getting a great photo of the Tattoo ladies in the Chin villages bordering on "essential", I was hoping I could get some feedback from anyone in the Asia forum who has travelled recently to these areas.

Hope you are all taking simply wonderful journeys!
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 05:42 AM
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That link is broken in my prior post. Sorry about that. Here is the itinerary: http://www.luminousjourneys.net/davi...r-photo-tours/

Feb 26 – Mar 11, 2015
February 26: Yangon – Orientation – Shwedagon Pagoda
February 27: Yangon – Bagan Temples – Sunset Panoramas
February 28: Bagan – Hot Air Balloon Aerials – Low Light Portraits
March 1: Bagan – Mandalay – Sunset @ U Bein Bridge
March 2: Mandalay Hill Sunrise Landscapes – River Cruise to Mingun
March 3: Mandalay – Lake Inle – Novice Monastery – Fishermen Sunset
March 4: Lake Inle – Indein – Ruins of Nyaung Oak
March 5: Lake Inle – Sunrise of the Fishermen! – Sittwe
March 6: Sittwe Fish Market Shoot – Riverboat to Mrauk U
March 7: Mrauk U – Temple Landscapes & Portraits
March 8: Mrauk U – Chin Vanishing ‘Tattoo Tribe’ Villages
March 9: Mrauk U – Sittwe – Yangon – Novice Nunnery
March 10: Yangon – Circle Train – Farewell Dinner & Slideshow
March 11: Yangon – Departure Day
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 05:52 AM
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looks fab... the places are gearing up for your camera
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 06:58 AM
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We've been to Mrauk U - fabulous place to visit! photos of trip to Mrauk U: http://www.marlandc.com/myanmar-2011.html

My trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...d-by-burma.cfm

Your itinerary looks totally jammed. It would make me crazy - no time to pause and enjoy anything. But we all travel differently. The plan is to get from Inle to Sittwe all in one day - that was not even possible when we were there.

Be aware that your experience with the ladies at the tattooed ladies of the Chin Villages will be very much of the "human zoo" experience. We did not visit the villages for that very reason, but other people we met on our trip did visit and said it was sad and demeaning.

There has been - as you know - sectarian violence in the Rakhine state. There are still camps around Sittwe for the (Muslim) people who have been displaced by the violence. You might want to do some reading about the issues before you go. The NYT has a video about the camps. I'll see if I can find it and post the link. Visitors have not been targeted at all. At the beginning of this, the government closed access to the areas because they didn't want the problems being publicized to the rest of the world. Obviously, they could not keep it a secret so they lifted the travel restrictions after a year to so. I've spoken with several people who have been to Mrauk U in the last year, all reported no problems.

I hope you have a wonderful trip.
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Here is the story and video on the camps: http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2...3A5%22%7D&_r=0
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 09:01 AM
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I was in Mrauk U for 3 nights 2 years ago. It was one of the highlights of our 3 week trip to Myanmar. We did not visit the Chin villages as we found more than enough to photograph, and keep us busy, for 2 days w/o leaving MU. I posted a trip report covering our MU activities when we returned.
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 01:18 PM
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Thanks so much for the info. Yes, Kathy, when photographers travel as a pack, there is little or no downtime. It isn't a bootcamp though. If you want downtime you just take it. That just doesn't happen much with die hard photographers.

Thanks much for the NYTimes link. I do study a great deal before I visit a county and this is very helpful. .

Regarding the Chin villages. Yes, I know sometimes these places can be viewed as "human zoos". The group I am traveling with hires the tattoo ladies as models for the photographers. Huts are set up, lighting is augmented, models are arranged, and it's an official 3 hour photo shoot. (paying "set" models-to me-is quite different from throwing people money who are demanding it to take their snapshot--which I won't do) If I can get a photo as good as this one taken last year by a member of the photo group, I would be happy indeed. http://www.luminousjourneys.net/wp-c...ho_Women_1.jpg

But as you said, everyone has their travel style. I go for images and really early mornings : )

ShelleyK, I'm so glad you found Mrauk a highlight. I'm also there for three nights; I'm looking forward to it.

Nice to be back in Asia!
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 01:49 PM
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That set-up for the Chin village sounds much better than what our friend described.

Are you staying at the Mrauk U Princess, by chance? That is a lovely place.

Somewhere here I have a list of books I read before my first trip to Burma. I'm having trouble finding it, but will post a link when I do.
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 01:51 PM
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Ok, here it is: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-bookshelf.cfm

I've picked up quite a few books on Burma since then, I really should add to the list. We are seriously considering a 20 day river cruse in northern Burma for 2015. If we do that I will certainly update my list.
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Old Aug 21st, 2014, 05:28 PM
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Thanks Kathie!! That's so nice of you. Not sure of the hotel yet.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 04:41 AM
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Wow that should be quite a trip and with a pro leading the group as well! BostonHarbor - Do you know if the "luminousjourneys" is affiliated with "The Luminous Landscape"?

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/index.shtml

Asking because I have been following or reading the website for a long time and have learn a lot from Michael Reichmann.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 06:40 AM
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Hi Hanuman, No, I don't think that there is any connection between the two organizations. I agree with you that Luminous Landscape has great content.

What I like about Luminous Journeys is that they only organize tours in Myanmar--photo tours and private journeys. Their pricing is so much better than others that do Myanmar photo trips (with good hotels, all meals, and all flights between cities) and this photo trip is with TWO pros. One an Australian, David Lazar, who has been doing trip in Myanmar for many years, and one a well-known Burmese photographer, A. P. Soe, who has deep local connections.

I'm hoping to come home with some nice images. We'll see. : )
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Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 06:45 AM
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I'll look forward to seeing your photos, Boston.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 09:00 AM
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I will also look forward to your results. The photo of the Chin woman is stunning.

Enjoy your journey.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 01:36 PM
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Kathie, I've spent that last few hours going through your report and your book suggestions. I even put in an "inter-library" request to the Boston Public Library for Patricia Gutman's book: Burma’s Lost Kingdoms. One of the branches has it (the main library only lets you read it in library--and my guess is that this book requires a comfortable chair and a glass of wine : ). I've order a couple other books and have gone though Cheryl's photos--what a great primer and some terrific photos.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks! You assistance is appreciated more than you know.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 01:46 PM
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You are most welcome. Glad you enjoyed my report and Cheryl's photos.

Getting the Gutman book is not easy. It turns out - long story - we now have two copies, one with a cut on the binding that we bought in Yangon.
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