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Month in Cambodia and Laos - January 2017

Month in Cambodia and Laos - January 2017

Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 09:58 AM
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KWP
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Month in Cambodia and Laos - January 2017

Hello......We are a married couple in our early 60's. We are active and able to walk lots and climb stairs easily.

Nature is a high priority. We like good food, wine, and beer. We enjoy the arts.

We are willing to pay more for accommodations if there is a special property. We enjoy nice pools, comfy spots to "hang out", candlelit romantic atmosphere.

This is our first time in Cambodia and Laos. We have traveled in several developing countries and appreciate learning about people and their customs. We like taking the time to enjoy sights, people, and not rushing around.

We like independence, private car tours, but public buses between cities is fine if the schedule is practical.

How does this itinerary look? Please recommend the best way to transit from one place to another. What inter-city airlines do you recommend?
Any sights we shouldn't miss that may not be in guide books?
Restaurants we shouldn't miss?
Tour guide/drivers?
Stay longer or shorter in these places?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Thursday, January 5 Depart Bangkok, Thailand 8:00 AM Arrive Siem Reap, Cambodia 9:00 AM

Siem Reap
IN Jan 5 – OUT Jan 13 (8 nights)
Debating between Sonalong Resort or Victoria Angkor Resort. ??

Siem Reap to Battambang –
transfer by scenic river trip all day? any recommendations of a company?

Battambang: IN Jan 13 OUT Jan 16 (3 nights)
Bambu Hotel was sold out for our dates. Looking at Maisons Wat Kor - any thoughts?
Le Cirque Sat – go on Jan 14 Has anyone done this?

Battambang to Kampot
IN Jan 16 OUT Jan 21 (5 nights)
Kampot: Staying at Rikitikitavi Hotel (no pool, but on river)
Sunset cruise? Recommended company?

Kampot to Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh: IN Jan 21 OUT Jan 24 (3 nights)
Booked Pavilion Hotel
Sunset cruise? Recommended company?

Fly Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Vientiane, Laos Airline?

Vientiane, Laos: IN Jan 24 OUT Jan 26 (2 nights)
Looking at Lao Orchid Hotel, Ansara Hotel, or Mandala Boutique

Fly Vientiane to Luang Pragang

Luang Pragang: IN Jan 26 OUT Jan 29 (3 nights)
Would like a special place to end our vacation under $200 USD/night.

Luang Pragang to Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw: IN Jan 29 OUT Feb 1 (3 nights)
Considering Nong Kiau Riverside Hotel

Nong Khiaw to Luang Pragang (back here again before departing Laos)
Luang Pragang: IN Feb 1 OUT Feb 5 (4 nights)
Will book same hotel as Jan 26 - 29

Sunday, February 5 Depart Luang Pragang 12:20 PM Arrive Bangkok, Thailand 2:20 PM (1 night BKK at Airport Hotel)
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 10:34 AM
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Do you have a copy of Dawn Rooney's book, Angkor: A Guide to Cambodia's Wondrous Temples? You will want that to help you decide which temples to visit and give you info on temples farther from Siem Reap.

You are spoiled for choice in hotels in Siem Reap. The Victoria Angkor gets good reviews, but the Park Hyatt (formerly the Hotel de la Paix) gets even better reviews. Sorry, I don't know the Sonalong.

In Luang Prabang, we stayed at La Residence Phou Vao, back before it was a Belmond property. It was fabulous and we paid US$120 a night. I notice it is now $600 a night- yipes! Take a look at 3 Nagas.

Clearly, you have one your research for this trip!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 10:48 AM
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I went to the circus in Battambang it was very nice, and to know that some of these students advance and do end up across the globe. They are doing a good job training them. Unless they have upped the presentation, it was very simple but nice. On youtube it seems they have invested in more lighting etc.. it was a nice evening out for me. I did leave as soon as the show was over because they then began an explanation of what they do, etc, which I already knew and was alone and to willing to stay any longer.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 12:10 PM
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A few thoughts:

Lots to do around Battambang; the Bamboo Train, the Bat caves and lots of temples in the countryside. Rent a tuk tuk and driver to get around to them all for around $15-20 per day.

Rikitikitavi is one of the best places in Kampot but we found it quite noisy from the Karaoke across the river when we were there last year. May just have been unlucky. Great food, wonderful staff. The river cruises leave from right outside. No real choice of providers but a couple of options of either the fireflies or the sunset. A great way to spend a few hours. Recommend hiring a tuk tuk for adaybto the crab market in Kep via the pepper farms, salt fields and killing fields.

Battambang to Kampot is going to take around 8 hours. I would think about breaking the journey in PP. Riki picked us up from there for $40 and it took around 2 hours. Mekong Express VIP minibus is your best option between PP and Battambang.


Lots of photos of our time there on our blog @ https://accidentalnomads.com/category/cambodia/


3 Nagas is a good choice for LP although for less than $200 you would probably only get a room in the annexe across te road . The nicest heritage rooms are in the main building and I would guess are closer to $4-500 pn. Maybe the Apsara?

Personally, with the time you have allocated to Laos I would think about spending less time in Luang Prabang and venturing further afield to Luang Namtha and maybe Muang Sing, especially if you like walking.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 07:30 PM
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Thank all of you for your help.

I will find Dawn Rooney's book.

We will plan on going to the circus in Battambang.

I booked the Apsara as suggested by crellston. It looks very nice. The others were quite pricey.

crellston....I need to clarify something. Take the Mekong Express VIP minibus from Battambang to Kampot. Then hire a driver to take us the additional two hours to Kampot?
Do you have the contact info for Chan (Tuk Tuk driver)in Battambang?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:12 PM
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We hired a really great tuk tuk driver in Battambang name is Mo, ph 016537999. He is a careful driver, knowledgeable about architecture and history, plus he speaks English well. If you click on my name there's a trip report from Nov 15.
Cambodia starts about halfway down.

We took a car back to SR before flying to Sihanoukville then car to Kampot. All up it took about 6 or 7 hours - most of the day.

Coincidentally, we stayed at Apsara in Feb 2014, loved it, especially good location and breakfast.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:18 PM
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Sorry KWP, I don't have the contact info for Chan anymore. If you can get a recommendation such as that from Sartoric, so much the better as not all tuk tuk drivers are good!

To clarify re the trip from Battambang to Kampot, what I meant was to get the Mekong Express ( which is very comfortable) to PP spend a night there and have Rikitikitavi pick you up from you hotel.

Rikitikitavi owners are very responsive and it would be worth asking them for suggestions to do the trip in one day. PP airport is on that side of town so perhaps they could pick you up there? That would involve getting a taxi from the Mekong Express drop off point to the airport.

On other thought is to have a look at the Giant Ibis bus schedules to see whether you could use them with a change in PP.

The reason I suggest an overnight is that whilst traffic is not a problem in the countryside, it can be horrendous in PP and you would not want to miss your connection.

Once you have sorted out accommodation in Battambang, it may be worth asking them to quote for a taxi to Kampot. They will load the price of course and, based on the quotes of $60 we got for Battambang to Siem Reap, I would guess at somewhere around $100-120
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:22 PM
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Agree with Crellston that doing BB to Kampot in one day is too much.

The Bamboo train in BB is a bit cheesy, but great fun. Tip: If you hire a tuk tuk for the day [which you should] ask the driver to take the passenger bench seat out so you can sit on it on the bamboo train. Do the train fairly early in the day and spend the rest of the day touring the glorious countryside in the tuk tuk.

While at the Rikitikitavi hire a tuk tuk for the day to visit Kep, a pepper farm, muslim village and salt pans. Lunch by the sea at one of the shack restaurants.

In PP the must see places are Killing Fields, S22 Genocide Museum, and Russian Market. All can be done in one day, again by tuk tuk. Finish off at the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay for their Happy Hour between 1700-1900. Get there a few minutes early to bag a balcony seat overlooking the Quay front and the river. Plenty of good restaurants on and close to Sisowath Quay.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 08:47 AM
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I've been implementing many of your great suggestions. Thanks to all of you for taking the time answering my questions.
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 07:20 AM
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KWP, are you still looking for a tuk tuk driver in Battambang? If so, I have the guy for you. His name is Bun, and here is his website:

https://battambangtours.wordpress.com/

I have used many drivers and guides over the years in various countries, and Bun is definitely in the top five. He took me out for over eight hours, including the circus, and he is enthusiastic, polite, and he speaks perfect English.

The circus is not what you would imagine--it's more around balancing and twisting, with no animals, thank goodness. Don't miss it.
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 07:23 PM
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We had a 6 week trip last Jan.and Feb. and visited many of the places you are intending to visit. We had a different book than Rooney's and found it extremely useful (and much lighter to carry around with us). I also looked at her book before purchasing mine.

Do you cycle? We took day trips by bicycle in Siem Reap, Battambang and Kampot and highly recommend them as a different way to experience the area.

We loved the Sonalong resort and highly recommend it.

I am drawing a blank on the name right now, but we really enjoyed the overnight trip we made from Siem Reap to the temple that is on the Thai border. See if you can fit this in.

When we were there, river transfers between Siem Reap and Battambang were not possible because of low water levels, so don't assume you'll be able to do this.

Battambang was probably the one place we could have skipped and not missed too much in our opinion. We did the circus one night, and it was fun because the performers were so enthusiastic. But, this was an old canvas type tent with bleachers, not anything at all fancy.

We stayed at Rikitikitavi (4 or 5 nights I believe) and didn't have the noise problems mentioned above. We just went down to the river and signed up for a cruise in the evening. I believe the hotel booked our Kep cruise.

The Riverside Hotel is about the best choice in Nong Khiaw. We took the super crammed van/bus up there but on the way back to Luang Prabang instead booked a transfer in a smaller van with fewer people; it was much better.

I guess the one suggestion I have for you would be to cut a couple days from Luang Prabang and instead take the overnight Mekong cruise from there to Thailand. You could spend the night there and then take a flight to Bangkok for your one night stay.
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Old Nov 15th, 2016, 08:07 AM
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I'm sorry for the delayed response.

Thank you CaliforniaLady & Julies for your helpful advice.

I sent an e-mail off to Bun today. Hopefully he is available. We will go to the circus.

Yes. We do cycle Julies. Did you have company recommendations at those spots? Do you remember the approximate mileage of the trips?

The transfer info will be helpful Julies.

Any great tour guides besides Bun?
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 08:58 AM
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the Bamboo train in battambang is why we went there. not sure if still functioning.. but is a lot of fun
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Old Nov 17th, 2016, 01:33 PM
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lincasanova...We will take your recommendation and experience the bamboo train.

CaliforniaLady....I heard from your tour guide Bun in Battambang. He is busy our dates, but has a "partner". We'll give him a try.

Thanks everyone for all your great ideas!
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Old Nov 18th, 2016, 07:23 AM
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I love the Sofitel in Siem Reap I go once a yr.Just got back.The service can't be beat a true gem. A chain hotel yes but, feels like a boutique hotel in charm.
Beautiful grounds...love it.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 10:42 PM
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All your wonderful suggestions have come in handy! Thank you!

We are enjoying our vacation very much. We've been in Siem Reap, Battambang, and now Kampot.
The accommodations have all been very good & clean. People amazing at each hotel, & food very good. I would highly recommend each one.

SR: Victoria Angkor Resort (great pool & location. RQ pool view room 218.)

BB: Maison Wat (Angelina Jolie stayed there last yr making a movie about the 70's Khmer Rouge genocide. 10 rooms in "jungle like" atmosphere.
Tour guide/ Tuk Tuk driver Bun in BB previously mentioned was available and excellent. Thank you!

Kampot: Riki Tavi Hotel
Excellent location across from the river. Upstairs restaurant with some seating overlooking the street & river. We've enjoyed watching the world go by.

Off to PP in a couple days by Ibis bus.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 10:51 PM
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We did have lunch at the Sofitel in Siem Reap. It was delicious.

The hotel reminded us of a nice resort in Hawaii. We did prefer the smaller local property of Victoria Angkor.

Both hotels were beautiful.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 11:29 PM
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Good to hear you are having such a good time. PP is one of my favourite Asian cities, enjoy!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 05:03 AM
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In Phnom Penh:
LancasterLad.....We took your advice today & enjoyed drinks overlooking the river at the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Fun view & interesting history.
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