Laos planning.

Old Apr 24th, 2017, 05:11 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Laos planning.

I think we've decided on Laos for the next trip. I'd really appreciate some help with logistics and recommendations from those who've been.

We'll have 15/16 nights to spend in mostly Laos later this year starting around the end of October. We've been to Laos once before (a few years ago), taking the slow boat down the Mekong to to Luang Prabang. I'm thinking we'll concentrate on the southern part of Laos, arriving in Vientiane and exiting via the border crossing into NE Cambodia, then making our way to Phnom Penh for a flight home.

It's a challenge given our limited time frame and an aversion to bus trips of more than four hours. Our interests include architecture, temples, natural scenery, local culture and food. Here's what I've come up with so far using Lonely Planet, trip reports on Fodor's and Travelfish :
Arrive Vientiane (from Singapore) at 15.15, take a car/driver straight to Vang Vieng, stay 2 nights.
Bus to Vientiane, stay 4 nights.
Flight to Pakse, stay 1 night.
Make our way to Bolaven Plateau, stay 1 night.
Return to Pakse, then onwards to Champasak, stay 2 nights.
Boat to Si Phan Don, stay 2 nights.
Border crossing at Voen Kham.
Get to Kratie, stay 2 nights.
Car to Phnom Penh for flight home.

Any accommodation and eating recommendations for the locations mentioned ? The budget is flexible, but we don't need luxury, and prefer family run places with a central location and some character. We'll be traveling light, and are happy to be sort of "on the fly". We have a couple nights to play with in the above rough draft. Have I got the number of days about right for each location ? Am I missing something ? For example, Savannakhet sounds interesting, but I can't work it in without 2 extra flights or over long bus rides. Thoughts ?

Where possible I'd prefer river travel to roads, but can only find limited or conflicting information. Similarly, with the border crossing info is conflicting. Can you recommend a Laos based travel agent for car/drivers ? Are there other resources I should be looking at ?

Any information will help me to expand the draft and give food for thought, so thanks in advance.
sartoric is offline  
Old Apr 26th, 2017, 12:02 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 9,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Sartoric,

I am in the process of considering a similar trip at around the same time as you when we head back from Australia and NZ in October. We did a trip in the opposite direction for Kratie many years ago. The border crossing was quite involved as I recall, many boats, minibuses and lots of waiting around and took most of a day. I recall that that crossing was near stung treng so it sounds that the border may have changed since then - and hopefully is less of a hassle.

I have to say I preferred the far north of the country with its spectacular scenery, hill tribe villages and river travel butvthe south does have a lot to offer.

Done Khone is a lovely laid back island in Si Phan Don (avoid the party island of Done Det) . The What Pou ruins were impressive - sort of unrestored Angkor but nowhere near as large.

Apart from Travelfish, TA sometimes has some useful stuff. Occasionally the British newspapers www.guardian.co.uk and www.telegraph.co.uk have some good stuff in their online travel sections

Kratie is a really lovely town, great food, markets and some decent place to stay.

Like you, I would opt for river travel where possible but from what I gather , I think river travel has got less and less in Laos as roads have improved. We found the best way to organise travel, even with limited time, was to ask at accomodation or agencies in towns and get them to arrange bus, boat or combination tickets We mostly ended up on buses apart from flying from Pakse to LP.

The bolvens plateau was beautiful, reading up on this, most seem to go by motorbike. We organised a car and driver and stayed in the area for several days. Tad lo waterfalls are one of the key areas to stay. You really do need your own wheels in that area.

Wat Pou, near champassak was a sort of in restored Angkor Wat. I think we did just spent a few hours there before moving on. Not sure it was necessary to stay in Champassak
crellston is offline  
Old Apr 26th, 2017, 04:02 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Crellston

Thanks for that. Yes, it seems boat travel is becoming more difficult to arrange as the roads improve, what a shame. Have you heard about the travel warnings for the road from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang ? Now under a "reconsider your need to travel" flag.

I've investigated the border crossing to Cambodia, and found out (according to the Australian government smartraveller website) it's not reliable. That crossing doesn't support the Cambodian evisa, and is frequently unmanned. Hmmm, big re thinking to do, at least I have plenty of lead time.

We're also not averse to the north of Laos, or maybe Vietnam (again) or Cambodia (again)...For a while South Korea was under consideration, maybe not now though.

Maybe we'll catch up in SE Asia later in the year. I'm sure I owe you a beer !

Cheers and thanks again for your input.
sartoric is offline  
Old Apr 28th, 2017, 07:02 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 9,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A beer or two would be great if we can swing it to be in the same place at the same time!

I think the warnings re the road between VV and LP have been on and off for years but I hadn't checked for any recent warnings.

Both times we crossed that border it was done as a through deal with the bus/boat company so I think that is the safest way to make sure it will be open as the last thing they want to do is waste time ferrying passengers back to their start point. There was a lot of waiting around as I recall and the usual "$1 for the admin fee" scam, but apart from that it was ok. But that was a few years back. I think we got our Cambodian visa in Vientiane but can't be sure.

We are in Vietnam for the start of our trip in June but will mainly be in Saigon and the central region. If you haven't done it there is a nice route between Saigon and Phnom Penh mostly by boat through the delta. Chau Doc is wonderful! As an alternative to Laos, may repeat that in and add some time in PP and some Cambodian islands in the south OR maybe north Vietnam - always wanted to go to Ha Giang.

I loved South Korea but who knows when those delightful characters Kim and Donald may start mixing it up!
crellston is offline  
Old May 1st, 2017, 05:05 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think any trip to Laos should include the Konglor cave. And since you will be in Vang Vieng anyway I cant see any reason not to visit the Plain of Jars - amazing places just a few hours bus ride away.
Vientiane is not too interesting. They have some nice food, some propaganda museums, some statues and god knows what else, but it's not a place to spend 1/4 of your trip in.
There is a night bus to Konglor cave from vientiane. I think you can get a night bus from Kongolor to Pakse too.
Spatskylanky is offline  
Old May 1st, 2017, 09:09 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We too went the opposite direction (north) and liked it a lot. Of all the places you mention, we have only visited Vientiane. That, IMO, is worth about a two night stay.
julies is offline  
Old May 2nd, 2017, 01:25 PM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, Vang Vieng to Phonsavan for plain of jars is just under 4 hours. With more time than two weeks it could work. Although, there's still the government travel warning about the road north of Vang Vieng to consider.

Vientiane to Tham Kong Lo for the cave is 12 hours by bus, then to Pakse another 11 hours. The cave is definitely out.

I'd figured on that amount of time in Vientiane as we like cities, and would time our stay to catch the annual Bun Nam boat racing festival. Now having second thoughts. Back to the drawing board for me I think.

Thanks for your input, it is very helpful.
sartoric is offline  
Old May 4th, 2017, 09:06 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Do Vientiane first then go to Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng to Phonsavan (Plain of Jars) - (don’t go back to Vientiane), From Phonsavan to Kong Lor Caves
Then on to Savannakhet, Pakse and the Boloven plain,.etc etc

no plain required - either hire car or use buses.
khunwilko is offline  
Old May 4th, 2017, 10:35 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Khunwilko, I know you've never been in a car with my husband, believe me that it is scary enough even at home in Australia. Thanks anyway, but driving is out. I see the time from Phonsavan to Kong Lor caves is over 8 hours, with no option for a bus (via Rome to Rio website). Vietnam is looking easier at this stage.
sartoric is offline  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:04 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A lot of people were crossing from Laos into Cambodia when we did about 5 years ago. There were no serious hassles. From memory we were charged $1 for a 'health check'! The bloke on the visa desk just screwed up the bit of paper and threw it in a bin with all the rest. He charged us $5 extra for our visa but told us to tell the official who stamped it for entry that we had already paid and not to give him anymore money! All quite funny really. He looked a bit askance when I said thank you in Cambodian though. Getting a visa is quite simple, all you need is the money and a passport photo.

We also stopped at Kompong Cham between Kratie and Phnom Penh. We hired a tuk tuk and spent a day touring the area. We thought it was well worth the stop but you do have limited time so maybe not.
silverwool is offline  
Old May 5th, 2017, 04:51 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rather than drive you could probably find a driver...but the roads are very inconsistent - what is good one year can be rubble after the next wet season....and you're right it is likely to take 8 hours to do that route from plain of Jars to the caves.
i have driven extensively around Laos and even after 6 years it is still relatively undeveloped but the changes have started.....it is getting easier to get round by the day but soon the "undiscovered" nature of the place will be gone for good.
If toy want a driver, I'm always open to offers of a cheap trip!
khunwilko is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
julies
Asia
18
Nov 24th, 2015 12:41 AM
marianacardoso
Asia
3
Sep 26th, 2013 04:15 AM
carolll
Asia
7
Jun 10th, 2011 02:39 PM
CarolSKov
Asia
20
Jul 24th, 2008 01:11 PM
Alan
Asia
7
Jul 26th, 2005 09:42 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -