Laos and Cambodia Trip Report
Mar 1st, 2009, 10:36 AM
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Laos and Cambodia Trip Report
Ok, this is my first trip report, so give me a little slack. It will not have that Dogster flair but hopefully someone will find it interesting. I tried to answer some of the questions that get asked alot about money and such, so maybe you will find this helpful.
First a little about me, I am a 52 yo single RN. I travel alone, but that is my choice. This was my 2nd time to Asia, having previously spent 2 weeks in Thailand last January. I do travel on a budget, so I find that $70-$80 a night rooms suit me just fine, and since I do not travel for a living I have no airline mileage upgrades or hotel points to use.
The trip was 20 days, including travel time. Having flown United to Bangkok last January, I decided to go with Cathay Pacific to gain the AA miles. I was very happy with Cathay from the service to the new seats, and will use them again. One other thing I liked was arriving in Bangkok at noon, it allowed me to get a room close to the airport and sleep off the trip since I cannot sleep on the plane. I awoke the next morning ready for my 9:30 Bangkok Air flight to Luang Prabang. I have to add that Bangkok Air is terrific. Had 3 flights with them this trip and each was on-time, the staff was excellent and the snacks on the plane were a surprise.
The Itinerary:
Bangkok Overnight
Luang Prabang - 4 days
Siem Reap - 6 days
Phnom Penh - 3 days
Bangkok - 2 days
Luang Prabang - I stayed at the Lotus Villa Hotel, which sets in a quiet residential area about 2 blocks off the main street. I loved this place, the breakfast was excellent, the staff was friendly and helpful and the room was great, and the monks came by each morning right outside my room. Even better, its just down the street from the L'Elephant and Tamarind Restaurants. And yes, the Lemongrass Chicken is all that and more. There are no shortage of great places to eat there, all you have to do is wander around. You MUST try the fried seaweed and Beer Lao!
The night market is a must and fun place to shop. Great bargains on the most beautiful silks and such. Took the boat trip down the Mekong to the Pac Ou Caves with the stop at the Whiskey Village. My fav trip though was to the Kuang Si Waterfall Park, this place is beautiful and the water was nice. Got out of town to visit some of the nearby villages to see the paper making, and silk weaving, all worth the time and trip. There is plenty to do there and the days went by quick. Sometimes the best times were just wandering around, exploring, talking to the monks, and watching daily life. I wandered by a group of men playing this game (not sure what you call it, but they toss or roll this heavy ball to the other end of this marked off area and try to get as close as possible to this small ball, someone help me with this!) and they invited me to come and play. I figured things out and played with them for about 4 hours. They shared their Lao Lao with me, but after one sip, thats all I could handle. It was something I will never forget.
I see where people ask all the time about how much time to spend in Luang Prabang, well, if you can spare the 4-5 days, you will not regret one minute of it. Also, as far as the money goes, I did find that US$ was accepted at most places, but it was worth it to carry plenty of KIP, and there are no shortage of places to exchange your cash. Having dealt with Tuk Tuks in Bangkok, I was so pleasantly surprised how easy and hassle free using the Tuk Tuks were. They actually take you where you ask and nothing seems to be closed, so they have to take you to the jewelry store - haha!
Siem Reap - I stayed at the Golden Banana Boutique Hotel, and it was nice. The staff was very helpful and the pool was really refreshing after a day at the temples. Even for late January, early February, the temp was at or above 90 every day. I chose to stay close to the Old Market area and glad I did. Plenty of restaurants and bars and wandering after dark is a blast. Big mix of tourist, locals and backpackers make this a great people watching area. The big hotels on the road from the airport seemed to be loaded with all the Chineese on holiday, and let me tell you, there were bus load after bus load.
I chose to hire a guide and driver for my 3 days at the temples. GOOD DECISION!! Tek was my guide and he was great. Having someone fill you in on the history and meaning of the temples and answer qeustions was worth every penny. They also made sure I avoided the big crowds as much as possible. I found that 3 days was about right, and easily could have made it 4 had I wanted. I would highly recommend that if you want to see it right and catch some of the outlying temples, that you allow at least 3 days for touring. Angkor is just amazing and something I will never forget.
I also took the trip to Tonle Sap Lake to see the floating villages and such. It was really interesting and worth the time.
Now in Cambodia, the US$ is king and you will never need to exchange cash. Its true though that before you leave, try to round up as many good bills as possible, as they do not like torn, ragged or old looking bills. I went to my bank a week before I left and they were kind enough to get me $100 in $1 bills and $300 in $5 bills, all in good condition. It really helps to have plenty of ones and fives, since changing a $20 with a tuk tuk driver is impossible, as well as when you go shopping. There are plenty of ATM's around that pay out in US$, but not all in small change. Took a $50 to a bank to get change and they did that for me too. So, its fairly easy to keep plenty of small bills with you.
Phnom Penh - Spent a couple of days here and that was about right. Visited the usual tourist spots, the Royal Palace, The River Front, the National Museum,The S-21 Prison and "Killing Fields". Stayed near the Independence Monument and found that there are plenty of restaurants, and its a good walking area. I am glad I decided to go, since I was a bit hesitant about traveling here. It was nothing like what I expected, and woud love to go back. Plenty of great places to eat and easy to get around. I found that visiting the National Museum after going to Angkor was a bonus, since my guide told me things that were taken from Angkor to the museum, and as I toured I would see the statues and such he was talking about, it sort of completed things. The thing that fascinated me most was watching the traffice, they way it weaves through each other at intersections. You think you will die crossing these, but somehow you close your eyes and you make it across.
One other thing I want to address is safety. I read all the time people are worried about traveling to Laos and Cambodia, but I can assure you that at no point in my trip did I ever feel uncomfortable or unsafe. I never saw not one policeman or police vehicle the whole time I was in Laos, and yet wandering the street after dark, it was not a problem. I felt safer there than in most places in the US. Same for Phnom Penh, it was not ever an issue. Now, dont get me wrong, I am diligent about where I go and would not wander down a dark alley at 2 am, but walking the tourist areas late at night, it was never an issue.
I know this was not a detailed minute by minute trip report, but I hope I have answered some commonly asked questions. If you want to know anyting else you can email me at [email protected] and I will try to help you out.
Thanks
First a little about me, I am a 52 yo single RN. I travel alone, but that is my choice. This was my 2nd time to Asia, having previously spent 2 weeks in Thailand last January. I do travel on a budget, so I find that $70-$80 a night rooms suit me just fine, and since I do not travel for a living I have no airline mileage upgrades or hotel points to use.
The trip was 20 days, including travel time. Having flown United to Bangkok last January, I decided to go with Cathay Pacific to gain the AA miles. I was very happy with Cathay from the service to the new seats, and will use them again. One other thing I liked was arriving in Bangkok at noon, it allowed me to get a room close to the airport and sleep off the trip since I cannot sleep on the plane. I awoke the next morning ready for my 9:30 Bangkok Air flight to Luang Prabang. I have to add that Bangkok Air is terrific. Had 3 flights with them this trip and each was on-time, the staff was excellent and the snacks on the plane were a surprise.
The Itinerary:
Bangkok Overnight
Luang Prabang - 4 days
Siem Reap - 6 days
Phnom Penh - 3 days
Bangkok - 2 days
Luang Prabang - I stayed at the Lotus Villa Hotel, which sets in a quiet residential area about 2 blocks off the main street. I loved this place, the breakfast was excellent, the staff was friendly and helpful and the room was great, and the monks came by each morning right outside my room. Even better, its just down the street from the L'Elephant and Tamarind Restaurants. And yes, the Lemongrass Chicken is all that and more. There are no shortage of great places to eat there, all you have to do is wander around. You MUST try the fried seaweed and Beer Lao!
The night market is a must and fun place to shop. Great bargains on the most beautiful silks and such. Took the boat trip down the Mekong to the Pac Ou Caves with the stop at the Whiskey Village. My fav trip though was to the Kuang Si Waterfall Park, this place is beautiful and the water was nice. Got out of town to visit some of the nearby villages to see the paper making, and silk weaving, all worth the time and trip. There is plenty to do there and the days went by quick. Sometimes the best times were just wandering around, exploring, talking to the monks, and watching daily life. I wandered by a group of men playing this game (not sure what you call it, but they toss or roll this heavy ball to the other end of this marked off area and try to get as close as possible to this small ball, someone help me with this!) and they invited me to come and play. I figured things out and played with them for about 4 hours. They shared their Lao Lao with me, but after one sip, thats all I could handle. It was something I will never forget.
I see where people ask all the time about how much time to spend in Luang Prabang, well, if you can spare the 4-5 days, you will not regret one minute of it. Also, as far as the money goes, I did find that US$ was accepted at most places, but it was worth it to carry plenty of KIP, and there are no shortage of places to exchange your cash. Having dealt with Tuk Tuks in Bangkok, I was so pleasantly surprised how easy and hassle free using the Tuk Tuks were. They actually take you where you ask and nothing seems to be closed, so they have to take you to the jewelry store - haha!
Siem Reap - I stayed at the Golden Banana Boutique Hotel, and it was nice. The staff was very helpful and the pool was really refreshing after a day at the temples. Even for late January, early February, the temp was at or above 90 every day. I chose to stay close to the Old Market area and glad I did. Plenty of restaurants and bars and wandering after dark is a blast. Big mix of tourist, locals and backpackers make this a great people watching area. The big hotels on the road from the airport seemed to be loaded with all the Chineese on holiday, and let me tell you, there were bus load after bus load.
I chose to hire a guide and driver for my 3 days at the temples. GOOD DECISION!! Tek was my guide and he was great. Having someone fill you in on the history and meaning of the temples and answer qeustions was worth every penny. They also made sure I avoided the big crowds as much as possible. I found that 3 days was about right, and easily could have made it 4 had I wanted. I would highly recommend that if you want to see it right and catch some of the outlying temples, that you allow at least 3 days for touring. Angkor is just amazing and something I will never forget.
I also took the trip to Tonle Sap Lake to see the floating villages and such. It was really interesting and worth the time.
Now in Cambodia, the US$ is king and you will never need to exchange cash. Its true though that before you leave, try to round up as many good bills as possible, as they do not like torn, ragged or old looking bills. I went to my bank a week before I left and they were kind enough to get me $100 in $1 bills and $300 in $5 bills, all in good condition. It really helps to have plenty of ones and fives, since changing a $20 with a tuk tuk driver is impossible, as well as when you go shopping. There are plenty of ATM's around that pay out in US$, but not all in small change. Took a $50 to a bank to get change and they did that for me too. So, its fairly easy to keep plenty of small bills with you.
Phnom Penh - Spent a couple of days here and that was about right. Visited the usual tourist spots, the Royal Palace, The River Front, the National Museum,The S-21 Prison and "Killing Fields". Stayed near the Independence Monument and found that there are plenty of restaurants, and its a good walking area. I am glad I decided to go, since I was a bit hesitant about traveling here. It was nothing like what I expected, and woud love to go back. Plenty of great places to eat and easy to get around. I found that visiting the National Museum after going to Angkor was a bonus, since my guide told me things that were taken from Angkor to the museum, and as I toured I would see the statues and such he was talking about, it sort of completed things. The thing that fascinated me most was watching the traffice, they way it weaves through each other at intersections. You think you will die crossing these, but somehow you close your eyes and you make it across.
One other thing I want to address is safety. I read all the time people are worried about traveling to Laos and Cambodia, but I can assure you that at no point in my trip did I ever feel uncomfortable or unsafe. I never saw not one policeman or police vehicle the whole time I was in Laos, and yet wandering the street after dark, it was not a problem. I felt safer there than in most places in the US. Same for Phnom Penh, it was not ever an issue. Now, dont get me wrong, I am diligent about where I go and would not wander down a dark alley at 2 am, but walking the tourist areas late at night, it was never an issue.
I know this was not a detailed minute by minute trip report, but I hope I have answered some commonly asked questions. If you want to know anyting else you can email me at [email protected] and I will try to help you out.
Thanks
Mar 1st, 2009, 10:55 AM
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Nice report! It sounds like you had a wonderful time in Luang Prabang, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
"You think you will die crossing these, but somehow you close your eyes and you make it across. " lol... wait until you see Hanoi!
Thanks for reporting back. You did your research and had a great trip.
"You think you will die crossing these, but somehow you close your eyes and you make it across. " lol... wait until you see Hanoi!
Thanks for reporting back. You did your research and had a great trip.
Mar 1st, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Vietnam is on my radar for early next year, so cant wait to experience that.
I have to say that all my research was on Fodors. You guys are a wealth of information and your past experiences helped me so much plan my trip. I am now an independent traveler for life!!!
I have to say that all my research was on Fodors. You guys are a wealth of information and your past experiences helped me so much plan my trip. I am now an independent traveler for life!!!
Mar 1st, 2009, 11:43 AM
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I enjoyed your report and admire your wonderful independent spirit of adventure.
About Phnom Penh you said, "It was nothing like what I expected, and would love to go back." Can you say more about that? Was it because it just felt less touristy than the other sites or was there some specific attraction? We have been to Luang Prabang and Siem Reap, but not to PP. I am wondering how high to put it on our destination wish-list. Thanks for any additional thoughts.
About Phnom Penh you said, "It was nothing like what I expected, and would love to go back." Can you say more about that? Was it because it just felt less touristy than the other sites or was there some specific attraction? We have been to Luang Prabang and Siem Reap, but not to PP. I am wondering how high to put it on our destination wish-list. Thanks for any additional thoughts.
Mar 1st, 2009, 12:19 PM
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Marya,
Phnom Penh was much more big city of course, but I did not realize how big it was. I guess I was expecting something smaller, less traffic and lots of poverty. While the poverty is there, its not so "in your face", if you know what I mean.
One of the things I dislike about cruising is that you go to a port for 10 hours and leave. You dont get a chance to get to know the place, to wander about making discoveries, getting to know the people. I feel like my 2 1/2 days in PP was not enough time for me, and while I made a whirlwind tour of the main attractions, I would like to go back and get to know the city a bit better. It was a pleasant surprise for me. I hope this answers your question.
Phnom Penh was much more big city of course, but I did not realize how big it was. I guess I was expecting something smaller, less traffic and lots of poverty. While the poverty is there, its not so "in your face", if you know what I mean.
One of the things I dislike about cruising is that you go to a port for 10 hours and leave. You dont get a chance to get to know the place, to wander about making discoveries, getting to know the people. I feel like my 2 1/2 days in PP was not enough time for me, and while I made a whirlwind tour of the main attractions, I would like to go back and get to know the city a bit better. It was a pleasant surprise for me. I hope this answers your question.
Mar 1st, 2009, 07:39 PM
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great report and thanks for taking the time to do it...it also will help people who are shy about going and even shy about writing afterwards...
as an RN while in bkk you might like to check out Bumrungrad Hospital... its about at soi 11, sukhumvit...
as an RN while in bkk you might like to check out Bumrungrad Hospital... its about at soi 11, sukhumvit...
Mar 1st, 2009, 08:43 PM
#8
Thanks for reporting back! Glad you took the time to enjoy LP, and to visit PP. The traffic is definitely worse in Vietnam - don't close your eyes, just walk diagonally into it and keep moving. (Or find a local to shadow.)
Mar 1st, 2009, 08:58 PM
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I too loved Phnom Penh when I was there a few years ago - only had a few days and would love to go back. I expected it to be a little on the dangerous side and was warned about going out with money at night. However we never felt at risk - of course we didn't wander down any very dark lanes in out of the way areas! Glad you had a good time.
By the way Bob (Rhkkmk) above talks about Bumrungrad hospital. Yes its likely to be interesting to you - its between Soi 1 and Soi 3 so a little nearer the beginning of Sukhumvit Road.
By the way Bob (Rhkkmk) above talks about Bumrungrad hospital. Yes its likely to be interesting to you - its between Soi 1 and Soi 3 so a little nearer the beginning of Sukhumvit Road.
Mar 1st, 2009, 09:34 PM
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I think the game you played in Luang Prabang is called Pétanque. A remnant of the French colonial era. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pétanque)
I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. If you are sensible both countries are very safe.
I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. If you are sensible both countries are very safe.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 03:15 AM
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I also consider Phnom Penh highly under-rated. Good museum, fabulous grand palace not over-run by tourists, and great restaurants (Friends, FCC, etc.) I need to go back again soon, and planned on staying in the area on the 'other' side of the Independence Monument too. Previous trips always stayed on the Quay, which is nice but there's a lot of places in the other area that look inviting.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 04:05 AM
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Nice report. I also found PP to be a pleasant surprise.
I think the title of my trip report should have been 'I lost my nerve in Vietnam' , it was the one place in SEA I tried to cross the street on my own, and let's just say I still have flashbacks.
Sounds like you'll be returning to SEA sooner or later. Try to stick to one airline. Hoard those frequent flier miles! It will be well worth it.
I think the title of my trip report should have been 'I lost my nerve in Vietnam' , it was the one place in SEA I tried to cross the street on my own, and let's just say I still have flashbacks.
Sounds like you'll be returning to SEA sooner or later. Try to stick to one airline. Hoard those frequent flier miles! It will be well worth it.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 05:37 AM
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Thanks for your trip post. I found it very interesting as I have been all the places you traveled. You could definitely spend more time in all the places you traveled. I well remember as mentioned my first time crossing the streets 2 old ladies one on each side of me helping me to cross the street. I soon learned,but I think you never completely get over the fear.
One thing that really made me sad in visiting Phnom Pehn was visiting the school where all the people were held and few got out alive.
Like you I don't sleep on planes so that was a good idea to rest in Bangkok for the night before taking off on the rest of your trip.
I have a friend who lives in Thailand who flies Cathay Pacific to the states, and he is very pleased with their service.
Glad you had such a good trip. I have traveled Vietnam alone and did not feel afraid.
One thing that really made me sad in visiting Phnom Pehn was visiting the school where all the people were held and few got out alive.
Like you I don't sleep on planes so that was a good idea to rest in Bangkok for the night before taking off on the rest of your trip.
I have a friend who lives in Thailand who flies Cathay Pacific to the states, and he is very pleased with their service.
Glad you had such a good trip. I have traveled Vietnam alone and did not feel afraid.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 06:27 AM
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Hey Arizona, thanks for the kind words. I thought your report was great - don't ever be a shy guy in here. Any solo travellers get my heads up, pal - I do it by choice too, and I know just what temptations lie in wait. Sometimes more temptations than tourism. So bravo for cruising through. It's not always easy - you have to get up, be self-starter, keep your spirits enthusiastic and high. Sounds like you did just that.
Remember, you are giving these guys in here the information they need - my rambling epistles don't provide anything but a list of places never to go, a list a things never to do, a range of people never, never to meet. You are actually way ahead of me.
So I hope you're feeling that your good karma in posting is being returned to you. Thanks pal.
Remember, you are giving these guys in here the information they need - my rambling epistles don't provide anything but a list of places never to go, a list a things never to do, a range of people never, never to meet. You are actually way ahead of me.
So I hope you're feeling that your good karma in posting is being returned to you. Thanks pal.
Mar 3rd, 2009, 11:55 AM
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Thanks everyone for your kind words. I am just a rookie, but eager to "get out there", and without all the great reports and advise, it would not have been half the trip it was.
I am making an effort to spend as much time as possible in different lacations rather than rush through and feel like you left something behind. So far, this is the best advise I have received.
rhkkmk, I will defineately take a look at the hosptial next time in Bangkok. I went to the Chineese Friendship Hospital in Luang Prabang, but wished I could have taken a tour. Maybe next time I can meet up with someone who could do that for me.
Maryanne1 - Yes, the school was such a sad place. I think seeing the pictures, just row after row of them, and you can see the look of fear and sadness on each face, I will never forget it. While at the killing fields I sat in this small pagoda and was just taking things in, and in the background I heard the laughter and buzz of children playing. I gathered it must be a school playground, and thought how ironic it is that next to this place where men, women and children were murdered for nothing more than having an education, that they would build a school to teach the next generation of children to read and write.
Thanks dogster, I have to say that when I come to an alleyway off a road and it looks interesting, I ask myself "What would Dogster do?" and off I go exploring the alley!! Sometimes the jewels of the trip are right off the main drag.
Thanks again
I am making an effort to spend as much time as possible in different lacations rather than rush through and feel like you left something behind. So far, this is the best advise I have received.
rhkkmk, I will defineately take a look at the hosptial next time in Bangkok. I went to the Chineese Friendship Hospital in Luang Prabang, but wished I could have taken a tour. Maybe next time I can meet up with someone who could do that for me.
Maryanne1 - Yes, the school was such a sad place. I think seeing the pictures, just row after row of them, and you can see the look of fear and sadness on each face, I will never forget it. While at the killing fields I sat in this small pagoda and was just taking things in, and in the background I heard the laughter and buzz of children playing. I gathered it must be a school playground, and thought how ironic it is that next to this place where men, women and children were murdered for nothing more than having an education, that they would build a school to teach the next generation of children to read and write.
Thanks dogster, I have to say that when I come to an alleyway off a road and it looks interesting, I ask myself "What would Dogster do?" and off I go exploring the alley!! Sometimes the jewels of the trip are right off the main drag.
Thanks again
Mar 5th, 2009, 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the report. This is exactly the kind I like to read and then seriously consider the trip there. I think it would fit my photography needs!! www.pbase.com/pattyroth
