Kolkata vs Varanasi
Jun 19th, 2015, 07:58 AM
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Kolkata vs Varanasi
We are taking a three and a half week trip to India in February. beginning in Delhi and going to Jaipur, Ranthambore, Agra ... and then to the southern Ganges River Valley. We will be on a boat on the Ganges, ending in Kolkata. We have about two or three more days when we arrive in Kolkata, and my thought was to stay there - in a nice hotel! - and arrange a couple day tours of the city, before we fly home to San Francisco with only one stop.
There is one other possibility - pretty much skipping Kolkata and flying to Varanasi and seeing that city before flying out with a change of planes in Delhi, and then a two segment flight home.
I am feeling that while Varanasi looks intriguing and well worth a visit, we will be at the end of our trip, probably a little tired, and maybe adding another flight, plus a significantly longer journey home ... is it worth it. Especially just for a day or two after the extra travel time. And what about Kolkata - it seems that if we're there, it would be a shame to just leave without seeing any of it.
I have wanted to visit India for a long time - my husband not so much. So - I have convinced/persuaded him to come along ... although I might have gone by myself if he hadn't agreed to come with me. I'm just trying to make this trip as enjoyable and hassle-free as possible - knowing all travel is unpredictable, and likely India even more than most. All part of the adventure!
Any ideas regarding Kolkata v Varanasi?
***Not asking for suggestions right now on the other destinations ; ) ***
There is one other possibility - pretty much skipping Kolkata and flying to Varanasi and seeing that city before flying out with a change of planes in Delhi, and then a two segment flight home.
I am feeling that while Varanasi looks intriguing and well worth a visit, we will be at the end of our trip, probably a little tired, and maybe adding another flight, plus a significantly longer journey home ... is it worth it. Especially just for a day or two after the extra travel time. And what about Kolkata - it seems that if we're there, it would be a shame to just leave without seeing any of it.
I have wanted to visit India for a long time - my husband not so much. So - I have convinced/persuaded him to come along ... although I might have gone by myself if he hadn't agreed to come with me. I'm just trying to make this trip as enjoyable and hassle-free as possible - knowing all travel is unpredictable, and likely India even more than most. All part of the adventure!
Any ideas regarding Kolkata v Varanasi?
***Not asking for suggestions right now on the other destinations ; ) ***
Jun 19th, 2015, 08:40 AM
#2
I know there are lots of Varanasi-lovers out there and I cannot compare the 2 places as I've never been to that one - on purpose, the reasons not important. But I will tell you I spent a week in Kolkota and loved it. For a variety of reasons, you can read about the sights it offers. But more generally, I found the ambiance so pleasant, hard to explain a feeling, but I plan to go back.
Jun 19th, 2015, 10:52 AM
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Obviously, these are very different places. While I expect most people would recommend Varanasi, let me say that if you opt of Kolkata, do book a walk with Calcutta Walks, www.calcuttawalks.com They are just marvelous. We had just two full days in Kolkata, but booked two walks with them. Photos are here: http://www.marlandc.com/Sikkim-2010/...alcutta-india/
Jun 19th, 2015, 12:34 PM
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I have not been to Kolkata, but we have taken two 2-week trips to northern India and Varanasi is definitely not to be missed, unless the logistics make it impossible. Look at flights from Varanasi to Bangkok and go from there to SFO...
Jun 19th, 2015, 01:09 PM
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I have been to both... varanasi was overwhelming and Kolkata was underwhelming.
the grand public bldgs. in K are attractive and interesting, street life is also interesting there but not that much different from parts of delhi which you will see.
V on the other hand is quite out of control in every way. it is truly fascinating... the cremations, the river bathing, the rituals, the dance, the whackos, the mystics, the colors, the smells, the intensity..
I suggest having a guide/handler there to make the most of it. staying along the river is unique, but the places are 2/3* at best, but it gives a unique authenticity to it all.
we loved the Sheraton in K.
read my trip report by clicking on my name
the grand public bldgs. in K are attractive and interesting, street life is also interesting there but not that much different from parts of delhi which you will see.
V on the other hand is quite out of control in every way. it is truly fascinating... the cremations, the river bathing, the rituals, the dance, the whackos, the mystics, the colors, the smells, the intensity..
I suggest having a guide/handler there to make the most of it. staying along the river is unique, but the places are 2/3* at best, but it gives a unique authenticity to it all.
we loved the Sheraton in K.
read my trip report by clicking on my name
Jun 19th, 2015, 01:19 PM
#6
I loved Varanasi, and found it a highlight of our trip to India 2 years ago, but we went at the beginning of our trip, when we still had a lot of energy.
Much as I recommend visiting it, I think your decision to skip Varanasi makes sense in terms of your itinerary and how you'll be likely be feeling at the end of your trip. It's a very intense place to visit, and is the epitome of all things crazy in India (thanks, rhkkmk, you spelled it out very well!), and if your husband has a reluctance to go to India, then this might be too much for him.
I will say, though, that it was one of the most unique places I've ever been, and am very glad that I was there. I loved our trip to India, and no matter where you go, you will have a great time -- but Varanasi was as "out there" as any place I've been, and that crazy, intense experience was something we both were glad we had.
Much as I recommend visiting it, I think your decision to skip Varanasi makes sense in terms of your itinerary and how you'll be likely be feeling at the end of your trip. It's a very intense place to visit, and is the epitome of all things crazy in India (thanks, rhkkmk, you spelled it out very well!), and if your husband has a reluctance to go to India, then this might be too much for him.
I will say, though, that it was one of the most unique places I've ever been, and am very glad that I was there. I loved our trip to India, and no matter where you go, you will have a great time -- but Varanasi was as "out there" as any place I've been, and that crazy, intense experience was something we both were glad we had.
Jun 19th, 2015, 04:42 PM
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I can't comment on Varanasi, but highly recommend Kolkata.
There are many interesting sights within easy reach of the Oberoi Grand. It's a 5 star hotel in a beautiful old building, with a bustling street market outside the front gates. A block away is a fair trade emporium, it sells handicrafts from many states.
You can walk to the Victoria Monument easily and the Museum of India is a few blocks away. The famous eating street Sudder St. is around the corner.
It was a splurge for us, but so worth it, as the location offers many options.
There are many interesting sights within easy reach of the Oberoi Grand. It's a 5 star hotel in a beautiful old building, with a bustling street market outside the front gates. A block away is a fair trade emporium, it sells handicrafts from many states.
You can walk to the Victoria Monument easily and the Museum of India is a few blocks away. The famous eating street Sudder St. is around the corner.
It was a splurge for us, but so worth it, as the location offers many options.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:22 PM
#8
It seems to me, given the comments above, that it might depend on wether you want an in-your-face experience, or a subtler one. Kolkata is a place known for its literary tradition and cafe culture. Most of the time I stayed at the heritage golf club, the Tollygunge Club, a fascinating glimpse into the past melded to the present, which I think is what Kolkata is strong on. I also stayed at the Fairlawn in the center of things and if you enjoy a taste of historic comfort, rather than sanitized, it's a memorable place for a couple of nights, full of "regulars" and an illustrious past guest list of the artistic/theatrical type: http://fairlawnhotel.com
Jun 19th, 2015, 08:29 PM
#9
I have been to both. I enjoyed Kolkata, but I was there during the Durga Puja celebration, which added a lot of interest. If you are going to spend any time in Delhi, I don't know that you need to spend time in Kolkata as well.
Varanasi, on the other hand is unique. It is st once one of the most sacred (and oldest) cities on earth, and the dirty, raucous, essence of India. If you are going to India at all, I think Varanasi is a must-see - more so than the Taj, which was a product of the Mughal empire - but there is no question that it is a demanding place to visit. But so is all of India. And you can always rest up at home.
Varanasi, on the other hand is unique. It is st once one of the most sacred (and oldest) cities on earth, and the dirty, raucous, essence of India. If you are going to India at all, I think Varanasi is a must-see - more so than the Taj, which was a product of the Mughal empire - but there is no question that it is a demanding place to visit. But so is all of India. And you can always rest up at home.
Jun 19th, 2015, 11:42 PM
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It is a difficult question to answer. These are two very different destinations altogether. Varanasi, impoverished, pock-marked, is an 'experience' like none else in India...the cremations, mendicants of all descriptions - some noble, some rascally; smells, the grime, the destitution...should be dealt with early on your tour. This is one place which may unsettle an already reluctant visitor in your DH!
Kolkata is benign compared to Varanasi. Ifty of the Calcutta Walks has a couple of tours which one should take. The walk takes you through the heart of Calcutta from Bow Barracks, Burra Bazaar and crosses several areas inhabited by Parsees, Jews etc. It is a great walk and he makes it all the more pleasant by his descriptions of sightseeing / Half-day, beginning at about 8AM. The other is his 'street food' walk which centers around the Park street area / 2-3hrs. His selections of shops/vendors will not give you a Delhi belly!
Apart from this you should go to the Howrah Bridge and from the Ghats (escarpment) on the Hooghly, 'experience' just a wee bit of the Varanasi!
The Oberoi Grand (Premier room with balcony), in the heart of Chowringhee, is an ideal destination well insulated from the noisy chaos outside!
Happy travels!!
Kolkata is benign compared to Varanasi. Ifty of the Calcutta Walks has a couple of tours which one should take. The walk takes you through the heart of Calcutta from Bow Barracks, Burra Bazaar and crosses several areas inhabited by Parsees, Jews etc. It is a great walk and he makes it all the more pleasant by his descriptions of sightseeing / Half-day, beginning at about 8AM. The other is his 'street food' walk which centers around the Park street area / 2-3hrs. His selections of shops/vendors will not give you a Delhi belly!
Apart from this you should go to the Howrah Bridge and from the Ghats (escarpment) on the Hooghly, 'experience' just a wee bit of the Varanasi!
The Oberoi Grand (Premier room with balcony), in the heart of Chowringhee, is an ideal destination well insulated from the noisy chaos outside!
Happy travels!!
Jun 22nd, 2015, 01:09 AM
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Hi SCDreamer, from another Bay Arean.
Having had the good travel fortune to visit both Varanasi and Kolkata, and looking at your itinerary, I'd recommend sticking with Kolkata at end of trip. Two-three days of relaxation there prior to returning home is perfect, and I am certain your reluctant husband would much prefer that to the extra trip to crazy chaotic fascinating but totally filthy/intense Varanasi.
If you decide on Kolkata, definitely splurge and stay at the Oberoi in one of the pool-facing upper floor rooms.(The first room I had --"courtyard" facing--was a bit dark and musty, whereas the one facing the pool was light and airy. Might have just been my luck--but they are all about customer satisfaction in that hotel) Actually, given current exchange rates, it isn't THAT much of a big splurge.I think i paid about $180/room in 2013. You will appreciate being able to retreat behind its gates and receive the wonderful warm staff welcomes. The LaLit chain has recently opened a refurbished hotel in Kolkata, and it gets great reviews, but for a first time in Calcutta, there's nothing quite like the Oberoi imho.
A few comments re above feedback from fellow Fodorites:
1. Apparently the charming Fairlawn (which is just a couple blocks from the Oberoi) sadly ain't want it used to be in the last yr or so, since the original owner died. This per a friend who often stayed at the place, but is dismayed by the decline.
2. If you read some of the reviews from Fodorites about Calcutta Walks, they specifically mention Manjit as their excellent guide. A couple yrs ago, Manjit started his own company, called Calcutta Photo Tours www.calcuttaphototours.com/ and he gives excellent tours, whether or not you'tr into high level photography. His cultural heritage tour is particularly wonderful! You can also book tours with him (or do on your own) to some other fascinating areas, including the flower market by the bridge, Bow Barracks, the jain Temple, the old Jewish cemetery, or Kamartauli (highly recommended) where you see the the craftsmen turning straw and clay into Gods !
Other places I recommend for a visit are Mother Teresa's Home (peer up the stairs at her simple room; see the small but fascinating museum which talks of her life, including her then-disguised depression) the South Park St Cemetery--fascinating, eery, atmospheric!) and tea at the once-elegant Fleury's, a Raj era place which is pretty worn out now but still fun.These are all on Park Street, a few blocks from the Oberoi, and can be easily reached from there as you dive in to the foot and car traffic.
Another area I loved was the university district, with its many bookshops and crowds of enthusiastic students. If you go there, stop into the Indian Coffee House, with its lively atmosphere, and historical political significance (discussions for achieving Independence).
Re Oberoi prices: one deal they used to offer--ask when you reserve-- was called something like the "Business Special" which included early check in at 9 a.m., late check out at 6 pm, "free" wifi, and buffet breakfast (which is excellent) and airport pick up. When i was there (October 2013) it worked out to be well worth the price, especially if you arrive early in the day, or your flight out isn't until the evening.
Having had the good travel fortune to visit both Varanasi and Kolkata, and looking at your itinerary, I'd recommend sticking with Kolkata at end of trip. Two-three days of relaxation there prior to returning home is perfect, and I am certain your reluctant husband would much prefer that to the extra trip to crazy chaotic fascinating but totally filthy/intense Varanasi.
If you decide on Kolkata, definitely splurge and stay at the Oberoi in one of the pool-facing upper floor rooms.(The first room I had --"courtyard" facing--was a bit dark and musty, whereas the one facing the pool was light and airy. Might have just been my luck--but they are all about customer satisfaction in that hotel) Actually, given current exchange rates, it isn't THAT much of a big splurge.I think i paid about $180/room in 2013. You will appreciate being able to retreat behind its gates and receive the wonderful warm staff welcomes. The LaLit chain has recently opened a refurbished hotel in Kolkata, and it gets great reviews, but for a first time in Calcutta, there's nothing quite like the Oberoi imho.
A few comments re above feedback from fellow Fodorites:
1. Apparently the charming Fairlawn (which is just a couple blocks from the Oberoi) sadly ain't want it used to be in the last yr or so, since the original owner died. This per a friend who often stayed at the place, but is dismayed by the decline.
2. If you read some of the reviews from Fodorites about Calcutta Walks, they specifically mention Manjit as their excellent guide. A couple yrs ago, Manjit started his own company, called Calcutta Photo Tours www.calcuttaphototours.com/ and he gives excellent tours, whether or not you'tr into high level photography. His cultural heritage tour is particularly wonderful! You can also book tours with him (or do on your own) to some other fascinating areas, including the flower market by the bridge, Bow Barracks, the jain Temple, the old Jewish cemetery, or Kamartauli (highly recommended) where you see the the craftsmen turning straw and clay into Gods !
Other places I recommend for a visit are Mother Teresa's Home (peer up the stairs at her simple room; see the small but fascinating museum which talks of her life, including her then-disguised depression) the South Park St Cemetery--fascinating, eery, atmospheric!) and tea at the once-elegant Fleury's, a Raj era place which is pretty worn out now but still fun.These are all on Park Street, a few blocks from the Oberoi, and can be easily reached from there as you dive in to the foot and car traffic.
Another area I loved was the university district, with its many bookshops and crowds of enthusiastic students. If you go there, stop into the Indian Coffee House, with its lively atmosphere, and historical political significance (discussions for achieving Independence).
Re Oberoi prices: one deal they used to offer--ask when you reserve-- was called something like the "Business Special" which included early check in at 9 a.m., late check out at 6 pm, "free" wifi, and buffet breakfast (which is excellent) and airport pick up. When i was there (October 2013) it worked out to be well worth the price, especially if you arrive early in the day, or your flight out isn't until the evening.
Jun 22nd, 2015, 08:39 AM
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Thanks for all the information and suggestions!
We have decided to stay in Kolkata ... maybe Varanasi another time, I am already thinking I will be compelled to come back to India ... we will have three nights and pretty much four days, as we will arrive in the morning of our first day, and our flight out will be in the evening of the final day.
Have been working out the airline logistics, and it seems to be better for us to fly out from Kolkata to Delhi and then on a one-stop trip home from Delhi to San Francisco: Emirates with a fairly short layover in Dubai. The Emirates flight out of Delhi leaves at 4 a.m. - so we will fly from Kolkata the evening before and have our longest layover at the Delhi airport. Otherwise, flying directly from Kolkata, we were going to have an extra 10 to 12 hours, longer layover. The saving grace (well, not really "saving" lol) is that we are splurging on Business Class, which means we will be able to use the lounge in DEL.
Anyway, back to the topic at hand - Kolkata. Yes, we will stay at the Oberoi - looks wonderful. Thank you, CaliNurse, for the heads up on the better rooms. I had been looking at the walking tours - some look really great, and I will also check out Manjit's tours.
Mother Theresa's house sounds good, too. Is that different from the orphanage? We have a visit to the orphanage already booked for the morning we arrive in Kolkata - one of the nuns is supposed to take us through. Regarding this - we would like to do something to help. We can easily bring along some school-type supplies (we have done this in other more remote areas we have visited: Copper Canyon floor, Guatemala, etc) but I think those kinds of things are probably readily available in Kolkata, so maybe a donation of money would be more appreciated? Does anyone know about this?
So many great ideas for things to do and see in Kolkata! Thank you to everyone who responded to the post. I am already getting in anticipation mode for this trip, and it's not for another seven months.
(Now, to figure out what to do for our first couple days, which will be in Delhi. But that will be another thread soon!)
We have decided to stay in Kolkata ... maybe Varanasi another time, I am already thinking I will be compelled to come back to India ... we will have three nights and pretty much four days, as we will arrive in the morning of our first day, and our flight out will be in the evening of the final day.
Have been working out the airline logistics, and it seems to be better for us to fly out from Kolkata to Delhi and then on a one-stop trip home from Delhi to San Francisco: Emirates with a fairly short layover in Dubai. The Emirates flight out of Delhi leaves at 4 a.m. - so we will fly from Kolkata the evening before and have our longest layover at the Delhi airport. Otherwise, flying directly from Kolkata, we were going to have an extra 10 to 12 hours, longer layover. The saving grace (well, not really "saving" lol) is that we are splurging on Business Class, which means we will be able to use the lounge in DEL.
Anyway, back to the topic at hand - Kolkata. Yes, we will stay at the Oberoi - looks wonderful. Thank you, CaliNurse, for the heads up on the better rooms. I had been looking at the walking tours - some look really great, and I will also check out Manjit's tours.
Mother Theresa's house sounds good, too. Is that different from the orphanage? We have a visit to the orphanage already booked for the morning we arrive in Kolkata - one of the nuns is supposed to take us through. Regarding this - we would like to do something to help. We can easily bring along some school-type supplies (we have done this in other more remote areas we have visited: Copper Canyon floor, Guatemala, etc) but I think those kinds of things are probably readily available in Kolkata, so maybe a donation of money would be more appreciated? Does anyone know about this?
So many great ideas for things to do and see in Kolkata! Thank you to everyone who responded to the post. I am already getting in anticipation mode for this trip, and it's not for another seven months.
(Now, to figure out what to do for our first couple days, which will be in Delhi. But that will be another thread soon!)
Jun 22nd, 2015, 02:54 PM
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I have a similar itinerary next year and I think a better route back is
Etihad 255 CCU 20:25 to AUH 00:25
Etihad 183 AUH 02:15 to SFO 06:30
EY 183 uses Jet Airways planes (a bit inferior to their own in business, and still lie-flat) but the timing is good.
Etihad 255 CCU 20:25 to AUH 00:25
Etihad 183 AUH 02:15 to SFO 06:30
EY 183 uses Jet Airways planes (a bit inferior to their own in business, and still lie-flat) but the timing is good.
Jun 22nd, 2015, 04:13 PM
#15
Wondering, I realize India is just about half-way around from California, where I live too, but for some reason I've always flown trans-Pacific to get there and back. I love stopping in HKG, and go other places in Asia. But when I've flown directly to Delhi I've also gone that way. Is there a particular reason why you're going the other way around?
You could likely fly directly out of Kolkata, east, and save the stop in Delhi. I haven't checked but it seems likely, connect maybe BKK or HKG. It might also amount to the same time, same number of stops.
You could likely fly directly out of Kolkata, east, and save the stop in Delhi. I haven't checked but it seems likely, connect maybe BKK or HKG. It might also amount to the same time, same number of stops.
Jun 22nd, 2015, 04:34 PM
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We've been checking and rechecking airlines and fares for this trip We looked at Etihad seriously, but then read so many complaints about lost luggage ... seriously, I was amazed at how many people had ended up without their bags when traveling on Etihad, and then to add insult to injury, the reviews said the follow-up customer service was appalling, and a lot of passengers never did get their luggage... for some it had been months.
Air India website said there were no business class seats on our route - ??? I was ready to pursue that further by phone, but then I read quite a few reviews that said Air India flights were very often late and the planes were old and dirty.
I looked at routing through Hong Kong or Singapore or other Asian gateways, but in the end Emirates had the best Business Class prices, best reviews overall in the price range, (comparable prices to Etihad), and the least amount of travel time. We could have flown with Emirates directly out of Kolkata, but the layover in Dubai was over nine hours long. By getting ourselves to Delhi, our Dubai layover will only be a little over two hours.
I realize that it's usually the people who have bad experiences who tend to post the majority of reviews ... but I found so many negative reviews for Etihad and Air India - on a number of different websites - that I just didn't want to continue with either of them.
Air India website said there were no business class seats on our route - ??? I was ready to pursue that further by phone, but then I read quite a few reviews that said Air India flights were very often late and the planes were old and dirty.
I looked at routing through Hong Kong or Singapore or other Asian gateways, but in the end Emirates had the best Business Class prices, best reviews overall in the price range, (comparable prices to Etihad), and the least amount of travel time. We could have flown with Emirates directly out of Kolkata, but the layover in Dubai was over nine hours long. By getting ourselves to Delhi, our Dubai layover will only be a little over two hours.
I realize that it's usually the people who have bad experiences who tend to post the majority of reviews ... but I found so many negative reviews for Etihad and Air India - on a number of different websites - that I just didn't want to continue with either of them.
Jun 22nd, 2015, 06:24 PM
#18
For those less concerned about posh planes, more concerned about budget, while still having the extra space and service in business class, Airtreks.com had gotten me some amazingly affordable deals on 2nd & 3rd string airlines. Very good value for those who'd like business class on a relative shoestring.
Jun 22nd, 2015, 06:33 PM
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Hmmm ... I wish I had known about Airtreks.com before I booked, but at this point it's water under the bridge.
I'm not completely concerned only about "posh" planes ... although I will admit, after many many many economy long haul flights over the years, I'm pretty happy that in my dotage I can afford to be a little more selective... and I still often do fly economy, because that means I get to take more trips.
My main concern is flight scheduling/connections working out and having my baggage arrive when I do.
And if "posh" had been my only concern, I definitely would have booked Singapore Air! Couldn't afford it, though ;-)
I'm not completely concerned only about "posh" planes ... although I will admit, after many many many economy long haul flights over the years, I'm pretty happy that in my dotage I can afford to be a little more selective... and I still often do fly economy, because that means I get to take more trips.
My main concern is flight scheduling/connections working out and having my baggage arrive when I do.
And if "posh" had been my only concern, I definitely would have booked Singapore Air! Couldn't afford it, though ;-)
Jun 22nd, 2015, 07:37 PM
#20
Airtreks specialize in RTW & multicontinent trips and also business class bargains, as I mentioned. They have contracts with lots of airlines to offer the lower fare 1-way segments. By posh, I meant as you surmised, not Singapore. However, what you get when you book through them is a travel agent who works hard, in my experience, to get you those good connections, they include (or did last time I bought from them) basic travel insurance and I use them also whenever I need to connect mileage award flights, for instance, to make a RTW trip or to connect with overland travel segments. They've been a really great resource for me for some pretty convoluted trips.
