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kiso valley & intinerary

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I'm considering staying overnight in Tsumago and I'm wondering if anyone has stayed there and done the hike to Magome. We're thinking about doing this on our way from Takayama to Tokyo (a very indirect route). The train/bus from Takayama to Tsumago is at least 3 1/2 hours, and I'm wondering if this is too much of a squeeze in my itinerary. Speaking of which... if you have any helpful comments, do let me know. Here it is:

May 6 Narita
May 7 - 13 Kyoto (with day trips to Miho museum, Nara, Ohara, Himeji -- based on comments I've read here. Thinking of overnight in Ohara if anyone has mid-range suggestions.)
May 14 Takayama
May 15 Shirakawago
May 16 Tsumago?
May 12 - 20 Tokyo

In Tokyo we'll visit the fish market, sumo wrestling and Sanjo Matsuri festival (has anyone seen it?) among other things. I note that the Aoi Matsuri festival is in Kyoto on the 15, and I'll be sorry to miss that since it looks lovely.

I welcome all comments and suggestions. Thanks.

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