Kathie Returns to Katmandu 2008

Some general comments on Kathmandu: Visiting Kathmandu can feel like stimulus overload. There is so much going on right in front of you. The city is crowded with people, animals, colors, sounds, smells.
The traffic in Kathmandu is terrible. This was a dramatic change from when I was there last. The streets were crowded with cars, trucks, tuk tuks, bicycle rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles, but also with people, cows and dogs, and even a man riding a horse. There are few traffic signals and they seem to be routinely ignored. I found the traffic to be more chaotic than Hanoi. What made traffic work in Hanoi was that drivers and pedestrians have a shared concept of how traffic should flow and there was a cooperative effort to keep traffic flowing. One of our drivers said he thought traffic was so bad because “everyone wants to be ahead” and there is no common goal to keep traffic flowing. Often in the city, there is gridlock as the intersections are blocked by people and vehicles going in all different directions. It is not uncommon for a driver to simply turn off his car and wait.

Every driver had his own short-cuts, but we soon learned that all short cuts have worse pavement (if any), are more crowded with people and animals and take longer than the regular route.

We took taxis to many places, opting to hire a car and driver only one day (to Bhakatapur and Changu Narayan). Unlike Bangkok, where you always want to make sure that the driver turns the meter on, in Kathmandu you are often better off if you negotiate a price with the driver ahead of time rather than asking for the meter. Various taxis’ meters seem to run at wildly different rates. At most locations, taxi drivers are cooperative, they know which driver is next for a fare. Negotiating a reasonable rate is pretty easy. Only once did we find a group of taxi drivers vying for our business.

ATMs are readily available in Kathmandu. None of the ATMs we used charged us for the use of the ATM, and since our own bank doesn’t charge for the use of foreign ATMs, using ATMs cost us nothing. Our bank charges just 1% on foreign exchange, so the rate for the ATM and for exchanging cash were very close, using the ATM came out slightly better.

When I was last in Kathmandu in 1994, the air was thick with the black exhaust of the tuks tuks. The tap water, even in the best hotel in town was a greenish brown color and had an unpleasant odor. The tap water in Nepal was considered the worst in the world at that time. The list of diseases one might contract from the tap water was “appalling” as I noted in my travel journal at the time. This visit, the air pollution was much less. The smoke-spewing tuk tuks were banished about 10 years ago. While the air still smells of diesel and the dust is ubiquitous, we were actually able to see the tops of some of the Himalayan peaks from Kathmandu! The water at the Hyatt ran clear and only had a faint odor, apparent, for instance, when we filled the bathtub. It is not safe to drink or use tap water for brushing your teeth. Bottled water was supplied by the Hyatt and is readily available for purchase everywhere in the Kathmandu Valley.

Politics: Politics and religion have long been inexorably entwined in Nepal. It was the last Hindu Kingdom, and became the newest republic after the elections in April which deposed the king. The king was considered to be the reincarnation of Vishnu. So the recent political changes in Nepal have impact not only on governance but also in the spiritual/religious realm.

Nepal is pretty stable at present, having had elections in April. Almost everyone we spoke with was hopeful that the new government would be successful in addressing the problems the people face. I was surprised at how many people volunteered their opinions on the last two kings. Even as I exchanged money, the woman looked at the portrait of the “old king” and said how everyone loved him, as he cared about the people. Of the recently deposed king, she said that all he cared about was money. Similar sentiments were echoed again and again. Many Nepalis believe that the recently deposed king was involved in some way in the massacre of the Royal family. When I asked one man about whether he thought the most recent king was involved in the massacre of the royal family he responded “You can’t say that – the army will shoot you.” But it was clear that many people did, indeed, believe that. The only survivor of the massacre was the most recent king’s son, and as one person put it “He (the most recent king) was the only person who benefited (from the massacre).”

As we were in Nepal just prior to the US presidential election, everyone wanted to talk with us about the election. The locals were quite well informed about the US election and hoped that Barak Obama would win. They expressed the hope that his election would change the way the US interacts with the rest of the world. While Nepalis do not like the recent actions of the US, particularly the war in Iraq, they recognize the difference between Americans and the actions of our government. We were warmly received everywhere.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites: The entire Kathmandu Valley is considered a world heritage site containing 7 individual World Heritage sites: The Durbar Squares in each of the three cities, Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur; the two Buddhist Stupas, Boudnath and Swayambhunath; the Hindu temple and cremation site of Pashupatinath; and Changu Narayan, the site of a Hindu temple dating to the 4th century.

Descriptions of the sites give no real sense of what it is like to visit the sites. Going anywhere in Kathmandu is an experience: the crush of people, cows, dogs, bicycles, motors bikes, cars and trucks, all on lanes barely wide enough for two small cars to pass without scraping their mirrors. Walking has many hazards: vehicles, no sidewalks, holes in the pavement, men digging holes in the roads using pick-axes and shovels standing waist deep in a huge hole, mud, water, sewage, cow dung and dog poop. There are children, beggars, touts, and sadhus. The cacophony of sounds - music, traffic, people talking, laughing, chanting, selling are the soundtrack of Nepal. No matter where you go, the experience is intense. Another traveler we met said that the Durbar Square in Kathmandu was the densest place he had experienced, dense with temples, people, sights, smells, new experiences. The people’s connection with their religion is ever-apparent as we walk through Hindu temple areas or Buddhist stupas with people offering flowers, prayers, incense. The Hindu concept of the cycle of life, death and rebirth feels ever-present. On our visits to the Hindu temples, our guides described the recent festival in which animals were sacrificed – 108 water buffalo in the Durbar square in Kathmandu and 108 in the Durbar Square in Patan… we could see the splashes of blood stains on the stone. Likewise, in Bhaktapur, animals were sacrificed, but “only” 25.

Guides: We hired guides at Bhaktapur, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square and Pashupatinath. Negotiate a price with the guide as you hire him and the price will be quite reasonable, perhaps 300 – 500 rupees for 1.5 – 2 hours. If you do not arrange a price ahead of time, the guide will endeavor to wheedle as much money out of you as he possibly can!

Boudnath : The largest Tibetan Buddhist stupa in Nepal was a 10 minute walk from our hotel, so we were able to visit it again and again, seeing it at different times of the day. At all times of the day you see the faithful circumambulating the stupa. There are people who are lame, bent, blind, all circumambulating the stupa. Each time of the day had its own delights. In the morning, there were mostly locals and monks in the flow, spinning prayer wheels, counting beads on their malas. At mid-day, there were plenty of western visitors, who, like us, joined in the flow and fewer maroon-robed monks. In the late afternoon, there was a river of people, mostly monks, nuns and locals, flowing around the stupa. There is such a lovely, peaceful feel at Boudnath, enhanced by the sense of shared values among the locals, the monks and the visitors. There are those prostrating themselves before the stupa or Buddha images, others offering flowers or candles or incense.

Swayambhunath is another Buddhist stupa in Kathmandu. It’s a long, steep climb up the stairs to the hilltop stupa. There are many other buildings and statues around the area, including “Buddha Park” at the foot of the hill with enormous gilded statues of the Buddha. It was here that we encountered a Tibetan monk chanting the sutras, accompanying himself with a bell and a percussion instrument. The Lonely Planet guide refers to “limpet-like” touts, but our limpet experience was with a small boy who actually attached himself to my leg and would not let go. There are many monkeys at this temple but they are not aggressive in the way that monkeys often are at temples like this. At the top of the hill is the stupa as well as a number of Buddhist shrines. It was here that I saw some interesting Buddhist graffiti: “The Buddha is not the reincarnation of any god.” In the blending of the Buddhist and Hindu traditions, Hindus have often tied the two religions together by positing that the Buddha was the eighth reincarnation of Vishnu.

We saw several Buddhist ceremonies going on in the courtyard surrounding the stupa. When I was last here, there was a group of monks chanting prayers. Both Swayambhunath and Boudnath are good places to observe the daily practice of Buddhism.

There are many shops atop the hill, selling prayer wheels and prayer beads and mani stones as well as a variety of other Buddhist-themed tourist goods. On my last visit here, I purchased mani stones from a woman carving them along the stairway to the stupa. I wondered if she was still selling mani stones, and I asked a stone carver atop the hill about her. He knew who I was talking about, and sent me down the right stairs to find her. I did, indeed find her! We had a lovely conversation and I purchased more mani stones to take home.

Changu Narayan is the oldest Hindu pilgrimage site in Nepal. To get there from Kathmandu, you drive beyond Bhaktapur, up onto a hillside overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. You are out in farming country with the beautiful, lush fields in a patchwork of terraces. The main crops are rice (which was just beginning to be harvested), barley, and brilliant yellow-green fields of mustard. Atop the hill, there is a small car park, and you walk up a paved path through the middle of the village to the temple. When I was there in 1994, there were no tourist-oriented businesses with the exception of one small shop that sold water and souvenirs. The path led past homes and the school, and the daily life of the villagers was played out before you. Now almost every place along the path has been converted to a store selling things to tourists – cds, crafts, etc. so atmosphere is now very different. At the temple, in 1994, we were the only visitors. There was a lone local woman making an offering, but we had the quiet courtyard to ourselves. This visit, there were more locals at the temple but we were still the only westerners. The courtyard of this temple has some lovely stone sculptures and several shrines. As we were leaving the village, a small bus arrived with a tour group. This lovely little temple is now on the tourist track, though certainly less visited than most of the other places we went.

Hi Kathie, I've been looking forward to your report. Kathmandu has been on my list of "have to do before I die" since I was 16 (along with a lot of others!) Hopefully it will happen next year - the trip that is. Thanks for the details you are putting in about visas etc.

My husband wants to do the trip on a motorbike but as I only sit on the back I think I might just stay in Kathmandu and let him go off.

Great start to a stellar report Kathie. Love those Hyatt Int'l Regency clubs. Lots of great information so far, anxiously awaiting more. Welcome home!

Aloha!

loving the report...

wait till you hit india....nepal traffic is a good introduction, but a bit tame i think

Loving all the details in your report, Kathie.
Brings back memories of my 2 visits to Kathmandu as a teenager when my father was on assignment there. I remember the quality of the tap water being bad....back then, we had to filter our own drinking water (bottled water was not readily available)...my first experience with filtered water, and the filtration would make the water tasteless, but drinkable and safe.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.

Loving your report Kathie

Excellent work here - loving this. I've been waiting for Kathmandu seen thru Kathie's eyes. But where's the sex and drugs and rock 'n roll? C'mon - you can trust us.. we won't tell a soul.

You note the differences between 1994 and now - I saw it first in 1971. Incredible eh?

'Dense' is such a perfect word. Like rhk, I think Kathmandu is relatively benign compared to parts of India - much less carnivorous, but your point is accurate, just the same.

Bang for Buck - Kathmandu wins hands down over pretty well everywhere else I've been in S.E. Asia and the Subcontinent.

And I love the little boy who attached himself to your leg and wouldn't let go.

I am enjoying your report, Kathie. I had never seriously considered Nepal as a travel destination but now I'm adding it to my list. How was the weather?

Dogster,

How old were you when you first went to Kathmandu and did you enjoy it? I'm asking because I'm thinking of taking my kid there.

I was a spotty 21 year old. But Hamuman, my Kathmandu then was a lot different from Kathmandu now. Plus my personal habits were suspect. I particularly remember the Hashish Grilled Cheese Slices...

I don't know how old your lad is - but I reckon KTM is about as perfect a destination as you could get. You can send him off on a trek while you hunker down in Club Lounge at the Hyatt doing all the stuff that Kathie did - and I'll make you a few doggy suggestions too. I've spent 10 weeks in KTM over the last 12 months. I love it. Like Kathie says - TONS to do.

Dogster,

My "lad" is a 17 years old girl! No Hashish for her but daddy wouldn't mind a little sprinkle on his favourite Cuban cigar!

Oh, Hanuman, you have to go. She'd feel right at home. And if you stay in/around Thamel there'll be a million kids her age [ish]. Unfortunately the Inn Eden Coffee Shop is a long-lost memory now.

Tell Mr. Hanuman that I know just where he should go for his supplies. lol. But, I'm sure Kathie's been there too.

heh heh.

Hi Kathie,

First, thanks for teaching me a new word - I just had to look up what a "limpet" was. Hmm, I wonder if he was the same young boy who attached himself (figuratively speaking) to me when I visited Swayambhunath earlier this year? An adorable and incredibly intelligent kid of about 9 or 10. I suspected from the start I was being set up but I so enjoyed spending an hour there with that kid that I didn't even care!

I'm enjoying your report and look forward to reading more. I agree with the observations that Durbar Square in Kathmandu is one of the "densest" and most sensory-overload places I've ever experienced.

i'm trying to imagine some little girl attaching herself to hanuman's leg and refusing to release herself....how would he handle it...would he use his thai sophistication or his american brut force?? or maybe he would just pay her off...??

Dogster, "Hashish Grilled Cheese Slices"lol..i wish i was able to travel in those years (i was too young)..But non the less i can't wait to get to Kathmandu at the end of this week..

Kathie, u are making me very excited but i am not planning anything...i know in my mind what i wanna see, and hope to get to all the places in the short time we will be there...

Hi Kathie-
Great report. I've been looking forward to reading about the changes.
I agree with Dogster's assessment of good "bang for the buck". We were there 10 years ago for a month during our RTW trip. Did a 10 day trek in the Annapurnas as well as weeks in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
When we got home, inevitably people would ask what our "favorite place" was. I would always say there were 2; Nepal and Thailand. I felt that Nepal was as polar opposite to where I live as one could get. There were parts where life had not changed in 300 years and I was in awe of that.
I've now been back to Thailand multiple times, but not Nepal. It may be time to go again, but I still haven't been to India so that's going to be a tough choice.

Thanks for the encouragement, everyone. There is more coming soon.

Thanks for a great start to your report Kathie. We will be in Nepal in December and are looking forward to it. You've provided us with some excellent info. Hadn't planned on going to Changu Narayan, but will now try to fit it in -- though we will not have as uch time in KTM as you guys had. Thank Cheryl for the flip videos -- we enjoyed them.
TracyB -- I bet you are getting very excited as your departure is imminent. Can't wait to hear your impressions as well -- and all about the Courtyard hotel. We may be staying there, too.

Pashupatinath: This is the Hindu cremation site, with the ghats located on the Bagmati River which flows to the holy Ganges, sometimes referred to as the “Nepali Veranasi.” The holiest Hindu site in Nepal, it’s a veritable village of activity. A flock of Sadhu, Hindu holy men, is resident there. As you approach the site, there are sellers of the various supplies needed to prepare a body for cremation and participate in the ceremonies: flowers and incense, brightly colored powders, materials for the candles. There are several temples, all dedicated to Shiva. In addition to the ghats, there are meditation platforms on the opposite side of the river; there is a home for the elderly who have no families, started by Mother Teresa; and a hospice. There is a constant stream of bodies arriving for cremation, morning to night. As soon as the ceremonies for one are complete and the pyre has been lit, another body arrives to be purified and prepared for cremation. There is much to learn about the beliefs and process, and it’s worth it to hire a guide once you get there. Our guide was able to tell us what was occurring with a body just placed on a ghat, discussed the concept of “first fire” and which family member (the oldest son for the father, the youngest son for the mother) was responsible, a piece of information which is also relevant to the Hindu ideals for number and gender of children. While we were there, a body was brought in a wooden coffin. Our guide said this would be a Nepali who died in another country. Nepalis living and working in other countries arrange to be shipped to Kathmandu for cremation at Pashupatinath, as it is so important for them to be cremated here.

Here again, our guide spoke about the massacre of the royal family in 2000. He described people having their hair shaved off, a Hindu ritual of mourning. Crowds of people were at Pashupatinath, all crying and sobbing. Eight bodies were cremated at the royal pyre that day.

The Durbar Squares: Each town’s Durbar Square is the heart of the city. From the late 15th century to the mid 18th century, the three towns in the Kathmandu Valley were separate kingdoms. The Durbar square is the area facing the palace of the king of these city-states. Each square contains the old palace, a number of Hindu temples and shrines and the house of the Kumari, the Living Goddess. The rulers of these small kingdoms competed with each other to produce the most dazzling architecture, and the Durbar squares are, indeed, dazzling. The last dynasty of kings of Nepal built a new Kathmandu palace at one end of the Durbar Marg, facing the Parliament building at the other end of the street, separating the political center of the city from the religious center of the city. While there are temples and shrines elsewhere in the cities, the Durbar Squares contain the largest concentration of temples and shrines in each city. Each of the Dubar Squares charges an entry fee that goes toward maintenance and restoration of the square. If you would like a guide, there are guides near the ticket office. All of the guides we used were excellent.

Kathmandu’s Durbar Square: The tour of the square (really several inter-linked squares) takes you through Hindu temples, and past even more Hindu shrines. You’ll see photos of many of them once the pictures are posted. At all of the temples and shrines there are people making offerings of flowers, incense, candles. The streets are filled with people selling flowers and incense for offerings. I’ll just highlight a few of the fascinating places in the area – otherwise this report will never get posted!

As you enter the square, there is a large, stepped temple to Shiva, the Maju Deval. Our guide told us that it is “safe” to smoke ganja or hashish for both locals and visitors at this shrine, so there are always people at the shrine enjoying the effects of the smoke. (Indeed, there were many times strolling through the cities when we could smell ganja or hashish being smoked.)

The house of the Kumari is in Durbar Square. The Kumari (the Living Goddess) is chosen though a number of tests, most which have to do with indicating that the child is unflappable (a goddess wouldn’t be afraid of the dark or of loud noises, etc). The child chosen to be the Kumari is typically 3 or 4, and she serves until she reaches puberty. In Kathmandu, she lives in a house in Durbar Square with attendants. She may come to the window and wave to those waiting in the courtyard at about 4 pm. Once the Kumari reaches puberty, she is no longer the goddess and a new goddess must be found. The “retired” goddess is given a pension. Often, she does not marry. One legend says that any man marrying a kumari will die young, but other people say that Nepali men do not want a wife who expects to be waited on, as they want to be waited on. (Note: each of the towns has a Kumari, although the Kumari in the other towns no longer live in the Kumari House on the Durbar Square, but live with their families.)

At one of the temples, the guide pointed out to us that the elaborately carved wooden struts of the temple had erotic carvings on them. He referred to them as “Kama sutra carvings.” His story about them was that hundreds of years ago, the people in the Kathmandu Valley were very reverent and didn’t have many children, so the king had these carvings put on the temple to inspire the locals to have more sex and therefore have more children.

There is a large image of Kala on a wall near the square. Kala is Shiva in his most fearsome aspect, shown here with a garland of skulls around his neck and trampling a corpse. It is said that telling a like before this image will cause one to be struck dead, so it was used in the past as a trial by ordeal. Sacrifices are made here each year during Dasain, when 108 buffalo are beheaded before this image. As this festival had concluded not long before we were there, there were blood stains still evident on the stone of the walls there.

Off of the square, there is a street called Freak Street. A short lane, it is lined with small shops, many of which capitalize on the name of the street. At one time, this was the infamous hangout for young western “freaks” but there was nary a freak to be found when we were there.

Patan Durbar Square: This was my favorite Durbar Square this trip. The area is impressive, with the largest, most impressive collection of temples and shrines. There is a small Buddhist monastery as well. While most of the buildings are of brick, there are several stone temples as well.

The old palace has been turned into a stunning museum filled with exquisite stone, bronze and gilded sculpture. It is often said to be the subcontinent’s finest museum. We spent a couple of hours here, and had lunch in the lovely courtyard café.

There is a lovely, octagonal stone temple to Krishna just across from the old palace. This is one of the most beautiful temples in the valley to my eye.

Also, across from the palace is a tall column topped with a sculpture of one of the Malla Kings, kneeling atop a lotus bud and protected by a cobra. A bird is perched on the cobra’s head. The legend says that as long as the bird remains, the king may still return to his palace. The window of the palace facing the statute is kept open, and the room is ready for the return of the king.

Like in the Kathmandu Durbar Square, there is a temple here with “Kama Sutra” carvings on the temple struts. This guide told us that these carvings were done back in the time when marriages were arranged between children. Because as children, they didn’t know about sex, the carvings were there to teach them about sex once they were old enough.
While there is a Kumari house in the Durbar Square here, the Kumari lives with her family here in Patan and the house is no longer used.

There is a lovely little Buddhist monastery here, called the Golden Temple. This monastery is said to have been established here in the 1200s. There is a lovely courtyard inside, with beautiful sculptures. You can go inside the courtyard as long as you are wearing no leather (or take any leather off). Upstairs is the entry to the monastery, and you can enter the outer room here. There is another Buddhist shrine and another Buddhist monastery south of the Durbar Square. Patan was the only place that has Buddhist shrines or monasteries in the Durbar square.

This is probably a good place to talk about Tibetan refugees. In 1950, when China brutally invaded Tibet, refugees started leaving Tibet and settling in groups elsewhere in an effort to save their lives and their culture and religion. Many refugees came to Nepal, and there was a Tibetan refugee camp in Patan. There is still an area called the Tibetan Refugee camp, but it is now an area of Tibetan rug-making workshops and shops selling rugs and other indigenous crafts. While the Dali Lama went to Dharamsala, India and established a community of Tibetan Buddhists there, there are enclaves of Tibetan Buddhists in a number of areas of India and in Nepal. You see Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in a number of places in the Kathmandu Valley, but Patan originally housed the greatest number of the refugees in Nepal, and still has a substantial community.

Bhaktapur: When I visited Bhakatapur in 1994, I remember being in the Durbar Square and there was no one else there. Occasionally, a local would walk by. But we saw not more than a half a dozen other visitors in our half day or so in Bhaktapur. I loved walking down the tiny lanes, many not more than 6 feet wide, seeing goats tied to doorsteps, and women tossing vegetable trimmings to the goats. Things were really different this trip. Bhaktapur was crowded with tourists. Indeed, it was the place where we saw the most westerners! As you can imagine, it was a different experience. There were still tiny lanes and they were vacant of tourists still and seemed unchanged from 14 years ago.

Bhaktapur looks very different from Patan and Kathmandu, as it is a city made of stone. While in the other two cities, the Durbar Square area is mostly brick with just a few stone temples, Bhaktapur is stone – the buildings and the streets. The city is an intact medieval town. The only people allowed to live in the old part of the town are traditional artisans and their families.

You enter the town gate, and wander a long loop through several squares. Between the squares are streets now lined with workshops and stores selling local crafts and various items for tourists.

The first square you come to is the Durbar Square. One of the most famous buildings in Bhaktapur is the 55 Window Palace. Bhaktapur is famous for its elaborately carved wooden windows. The contrast of the dark word against the light stone really makes these lovely windows stand out. The palace has been restored since I was there in 1994 and it looks lovely.

Near the Palace is the National Art Gallery. We did pay to go in, but were not especially impressed. The gallery is very dark, so it is hard to see the old thangkas on display.

There are a number of temples facing the square. The Pashupatinath temple (a replica of the one on the banks of the Bagmati) has the same sort of erotic carving seen on temples in the other two Durbar Squares. This guide had no particular explanation for these carvings, but just pointed them out. Perhaps the most interesting temple in the square is the Siddhi Lakshmi temple, a tall temple with stairs leading to the shrine that crowns it. On each side of the stairs are attendants, with different animal at each level, horses, lions, rhinos, man-lions and camels.

The next square, Taumadhi Tole, is surrounded by Hindu temples and shrines including the tallest temple in Nepal, the five-story, 30 meter high Nyatapola temple. No temples in the valley are allowed to be taller than this temple. The stairs leading up to the temple are flanked by guardian figures, each high set said to be ten times stronger than the previous set. Just off of this square is the famed Peacock window. This elaborately carved wooden window from the 15th century is one of the most frequently photographed places in Bhaktapur.
Along this lane are several wood carving workshops.

In addition, there is Potter’s Square where artisans make and fire pottery. This square has an entirely different feel to it. It is interesting to watch the potters work, shaping pots and small saucer-shaped items used at Tihar for offerings. There is no enclosed kiln here, and keeping the heat at the right level is an art. They build a carefully-constructed mound of layers of pottery and straw, and covered with ash to fire the pottery.

Bhaktapur still has the dramatic look I remember, but the hustle-bustle was so different from my previous experience. On the other hand, several of the notable buildings have been restored since my previous visit, and the increased economic activity has been good for the town.

Thamel: When I visited Thamel so many years ago, it felt like a flashback to the late 60s, early 70s. Many people looked like they just stepped out of the time machine. There were all the Indian bedspreads every “hippie” seemed to have hung on their walls, plus the curtains of beads they used in their doorways. Much of the merchandise in Thamel looked like the stock of any headshop in the US. I remember being offered hashish back then, and both ganja and hash were readily available on the streets of Thamel. I’m sure that is still true, but I’m now old enough and respectable-looking enough, that (sigh) I had no offers this trip. The streets were small, crowded lanes with no sidewalks but there was a very mellow vibe. I really enjoyed browsing the shops and stalls. I had read about a small crafts cooperative started for Nepali women who had no husbands and were, therefore, outside of the mainstream culture and had no means of support. Out of the blue, I stumbled across the store I had read about, and I filled my suitcase with books of handmade paper created by these women. I remember wandering aimlessly, just enjoying being there.

Thamel wasn’t as much fun this trip. Alas! The time travelers are gone! It is now so overcrowded that walking is difficult. Indeed, I was bumped by a truck and Cheryl almost broke a leg. We both survived with mere scratches, but the incidents illustrate how difficult it is to navigate the streets of Thamel. Browsing in shops was more difficult than before, as looking at anything made you a target for the hard sell. It was louder and more chaotic than ever.
Thamel is the place where most backpackers and young trekkers stay. If you are young and wanting to connect with other young travelers, you might enjoy staying there for a few days.

Thamel is famed as a place where the menus contain every kind of food. Places offer Indian food and pizza, hamburgers and mezze, vegetarian food and yak meat. After trekking for weeks and eating nothing but daal bhaat, trekkers come back to Kathmandu ravenous for familiar food. And restaurateurs have always been glad to accommodate them.

For those who visited Nepal during late adolescence or early adulthood, Thamel felt like a transformative place, a place where like-minded people from all over the world congregated. I could still see and feel that in 1994, but that vibe seemed largely gone this trip. I’ve changed and Thamel has changed – Thamel may still have a bit of that old magic for some, but no longer for me.

We found a wonderful oasis on the edge of Thamel: the Garden of Dreams. This is the home and garden of Kaiser Shamser who built the house and gardens in the 1920s. It has been restored on the last decade and it is lovely, indeed. We enjoyed strolling through the garden. There is also a café there, but we didn’t eat there – it did look lovely. If we’d had more time, I would like to have eaten there for the atmosphere if nothing else.

As always, superb reporting. I'm enjoying reading how things have changed since your last visit ... and mine. Keep it coming Kathie.

... yo, Kathie, many thanks for the KTM 'diary'; brought back good memories of pre and post 'partying' from my once 'carefree' pre-mrs. m mountaineering days in Nepal and Tibet.

... but now, moving on to something that warms my heart a bit more, namely Hanuman's 17-year-old daughter ... (and, as always, please don't tell the SIA-forever wife.) ... One thought for you, 'monkey god': ditch the daughter for a few hours, and savour rather special massages from a rather lovely masseuse at the Yak and Yeti ... (most likely, long gone by now; we're talkin' the early 90's.) ... (And a few other Kathmandu 'parlours' had their moments; nothing like my all-time cherished Bangkok 'soapies', but then, rather tough to top those Thai 'masseuses'.)

... keep up the good work Kathie, and in future do kindly consider SQ (and the Peninsula, Oriental, Four Seasons, SGS, KW @ Shangri-La ... (but will always remember the ROS as a rather friendly 'bachelor business travel place' ... thank you, Thai women ... (and yes, a certain Girl) --- Forever ...

macintosh (robert)


... "You like 'full body massage', yes?" ...

(Hotel Annapurna, 'Salon', Kathmandu June 199_)

kathie...loving your report...now I am sorry we didn't get to KTH. I will have to get Bob busy on that when we are next in the neighborhood. Your report is great and am waiting for the next part. How was the food? Did you eat in mostly hoetel or where? What type of crafts did you bring home? karen

Shopping: Nepal has some unique crafts. Last trip, I brought home puppets, Tibetan carpets, a prayer wheel, a small silver Buddha, mani stones, a Thangka, a copper-covered box from Tibet and an old wooden rice scoop.

Thangkas are meditational paintings, originally made by Tibetan monks. The finest of the thangkas are painted with a brush with just a single hair. There are a number of traditional patterns for thangkas: mandalas, the life of the Buddha, a design by the Dali Lama, etc. If you want to buy a thangka, you’ll find many places that sell them. Generally, you want to buy from a place that specializes in thangkas. Look at the many different patterns and choose the one that “speaks” to you. You want one painted with natural pigments, as these are most resistant to fading. The one I purchased 14 years ago hangs on my fall, still as vibrabt as when I bought it. Thangkas are not inexpensive. Large, well-painted intricately detailed thangkas will run in the $200-$400 range. Less detailed painting by “students” will cost less. Cheryl bought a lovely thangka from a place near Kathmandu’s Durbar Square.

Tibetan singing bowls are another unusual item available in Nepal. The best of these bowls are hand-hammered from a flat piece of alloyed metal. By tradition, the bowls are supposed to contain seven different metals. The bowls have a lovely ring when struck, and “sing” when rubbed with a wooden mallet. The same technique that creates the ringing will cause water placed in the bowl to “boil.” It takes technique to make these bowls sing. There is still at least one family of artisans in Patan making these bowls in the traditional way. We purchased a medium-sized bowl for about US$75. There are lots of inexpensive machine-made bowls available. The hand-made bowls are thinner and light and have a different ring to them.

Bhakatapur is famous for its wood carving. I bought an intricately carved wooden window at one of the workshops there. There are a broad range of sizes available. I bought a medium-sized window for about US$75.

I love hand-woven textiles, so I wanted to buy some of the Dhaka weavings from eastern Nepal. The Lonely Planet recommends a fair trade crafts shop, Mahaguthi, located in Kopundol (an area of Patan). This was a great place to shop, with a good selection of items. The hand-woven textiles are gorgeous – and the price per large piece was about US$10 each (they were on sale when we were there – 25% off the regular price). I bought an arm-load and wished I’d bought more. There are other items here, such as hand-made paper books, some small paintings, and pashimas (I later wished I’d gotten one there).

Eating: Food at the Hyatt was excellent. The downside of staying at the Hyatt is that we did not venture out for dinner. We had wine and canapés in the Club, and chose to eat a full dinner only once, in Rox, the hotel’s Italian restaurant. The food was very good, though the price is rather high for Kathmandu.
My last stay in Kathmandu Ghar – E –Kebab was considered to have the best Indian food outside of Delhi. It still exists, but is only open for dinner, so I didn’t get to re-visit my favorite restaurant in Kathmandu.

We ate a number of places away from the Hyatt. The most notable were:

Bawarchi, and Indian restaurant in the Lazimat area of Kathmandu. This place was recommended to us by the manager of the Annapurna Hotel on the Durbar Marg (where Ghar-E-Kebab is now located). Very good Indian food.

1905 on the edge of Thamel is located in an old house and garden. We had a table on the bridge over the pond – a beautiful setting. The service was slow the food was pretty good. They serve a wide variety of foods, but the emphasis at lunch seemed to be Mediterranean cuisines.

The café at the Patan Musem. The setting was really beautiful – the courtyard of the old palace with flowering trees shading us. The food we ordered was Indian and was very tasty.

Tihar: Being in Kathmandu during Tihar was a wonderful experience. In the lobby of the Hyatt, a large round “painting” was made with colored grains of rice, marigold petals and candles. We saw other such paintings being made at other places (such as the Mahaguthi crafts shop). We were out and about for the first three days of the festival and would have enjoyed seeing even more of it. One day honors dogs, and we saw logs festooned with flower garlands. The next day was the day for the worship of cows, and the cows were fancied-up with applications of colored powders. The first one I saw was so garishly colored, I initially thought it was a statue! There were wonderful photos in the newspaper of various parts of the celebration. The day we left was a day for brothers and sister to honor each other, and the cities close down for this family holiday.

I could go on and on about Nepal, but I’ll stop now. Cheryl will have the photos up soon she says.

I’m glad to answer questions. I know there are several of you headed for Nepal soon.

Thanks to all of you for your feedback and encouragement. Obviously we had a great time in Nepal – our eight days were packed!

Let me go back and try to repond to questions and comments:

MaryW – re: Your husband’s wish to visit Nepal on motorbike – yipes! I read somewhere that the leading cause of death among young Nepalis was motor bike accidents. I suppose the traffic would be much less out in the countryside, but roads are worse. You could certainly keep yourself well-occupied in Kathmandu while he’s off on his motorbike.

Magical – I loved your memory of having to filter the water…

Dogster – no question, your memories of Kathmandu go back much father than mine. I’d be interested in your reflections on changes in Nepal during the time you’ve been visiting. And not much in the way of drugs, sex or rock ‘n roll this trip – sorry to disappoint you.

And I agree, Bob and Dogster, that I think Nepal is “India lite” in some ways. India is still on my to-go list, so I can only make comparisons from the reports I’ve read.

Craig, the weather was a bit warmer than we expected, but certainly cooler than Bangkok. Typical highs in October are in the mid to low 70s, but it was about 80 all the days but one. October, November December are good times to visit (I was there in December last time). Skies were clear and we were able to see the peaks of the Himalayas.

Hanuman – I think your daughter would enjoy Nepal. And, no doubt, you and Dang would too.

JohnH – the kid who attached himself to me was pretty young – perhaps 5, but I expect it’s a well-know trick to get money out of visitors!

Tracy – have a wonderful time in Kathmandu! One more thing to consider doing is the flight to see Everest. You are in a small plane that flies along the ridge of the Himalayas – a spectacular flight. I did it years ago – once was enough!

Kristina- You had the luxury of a food, long time in Nepal and got to do lots of things I’ve wanted to do, like visit Pokara. I expect you would find many things changed, as I did.

Travelaw – It doesn’t take long to visit Changu Narayan, go there in conjunction with Bhaktapur. It adds perhaps an hour to the trip. Not only is the temple worth seeing, just being out in the countryside is wonderful. Have a wonderful trip!

Excellent report Kathie and we are looking at going in the future.

Bob,

Mace!

Thanks again Kathie for so much information. My husband and I were talking about the motorbike part again last night. He'd just been out yesterday riding with friends who have just done such a trip - both husband and wife ride - there are now good "package" trips on bikes - a very small group with back up, guide and mechanic - but even so it was pretty hard work. Mainly very rough roads which they are okay with but big trucks that were a real problem. I'll definitely stay in Kathmandu if he does go riding (and just hope) Hopefully he will go off the idea! I worry all the time when he's off on the bike but there is no point in stopping someone doing what they really want to do.

what are the stones you refer to??

will you go back any time soon??

Kathie you are great. We have been home from Bhutan nearly 2 weeks and I am yet to put pen to paper so the speak. To be honest I spent any "computer' time I had this weekend going through trip photos which was very enjoyable. Yours is a great report. I was first in Kathmandu in the mid 80's & the last trip was '98 so I can only imagine the changes again.
Thanks for your report.
J

Bob, mani stones are small (natural) stones with the mantra om mani padme hum carved into them and painted. They are sometimes given as offerings at Buddhist stupas. This time, I saw none left as offerings, so others must buy them as I do to take home.

Jules, we all have our own ways of telling stories - I look forward to your story about Bhutan. My advantage is that someone else (Cheryl) is taking care of the photo part. She has an enormous number of photos she's going through, so it's quite time-consuming.

It's the photos that I expect will wow people. I'll let you know when they are posted.

Thanks for the enouragment kathie! I always say there is a reason I am in science I cannot write!! I look forward to seeing your photos to see if I can see the changes in KTM since we were last there. I will definately write about Bhutan we had a great trip, which I have so enjoyed reliving through the photos this weekend. Do you think I could convince Dogster to give it another chance??!!!!!
J

Kathie I forgot to ask where you plan for your next trip??

lets urge her on to india and burma

I go for India.........

Kathie,
What a fantastic trip report, so detailed and vivid. My list grows longer and longer of places to visit.

Thank you for writing it.

Great stuff this, Kathy. Of course, you put my tawdry wanders to shame.

AND to add insult to injury, you've found a whole lotta stuff I didn't. Damn you woman. I better lay off those Hashish Grilled Cheese Slices.

Enchanting reading, Kathie -- evocative, instructive, meditative, and analytic, all in good measure. It is especially interesting to read your thoughts on how Kathmandu -- and you -- have changed between visits.

I look forward to seeing the photos and have added SHOPPING FOR BUDDHAS to my reading list. Thank you for introducing some of us to the culture of Nepal.

LOL, Dogster, let's just say we each saw different things in Kathmandu!

Where to next? Of course, we have a long list of places we want to visit. Yes, both India and Burma are on the list. Also, the new Pandaw cruise in Sarawak, central Java (I've been but Cheryl hasn't), southern China... the list goes on and on.

Yes Kathy we are hoping to do the Everest flight...and yes.it seems we all see different things when we travel, that is the fun of it!!

Kathie can you describe the wooden windows for me? They sound intreging. Loved your report, you and Cheryl make your trip sound so relaxing, when I know to see all you did you were on the go all the time. Great trip and looking forward to Cheryls oictures. See you in LA?

Kathie,

Always love your attention to detail and I admire and envy your thoughtful way of shopping. Your house must be a museum of treasures from past trips.

Kathmandu was always on our list and it just got bumped up a couple of spots, thanks.

Is Japan on your long list, lol?

Aloha!

Karen, the wooden windows are hard to describe. They are so intricately carved. You will see photos once they get posted.

HT, of course Japan is on our long list as well. We're planning to get back to two trips a year which will help us tackle that long list! We did restrain ourselves this time in our shopping. The house is so full we have to be more restrained. Besides, when we move to Bangkok we'll have to pack it all!

Yes, we plan to be at the LA gtg. I hope you and Linda will be there too!

they better be there, they are the life of the party, especially when peter tells about his dead relatives....!!

hope to see ken and lcuy and others there as well, now that the LA to HI bridge is complete...

thanks kathie! I will be in Kathmandu in 3 weeks. hurrah! I will definitely be taking a copy of your report. cheers!

Cheryl's photos are now posted
www.marlandc.com
at the bottom of the page click the link for the Kathmandu Valley photos

fantastic photos as usual. Cheryl really has the eye for the pics and it shows. The presentations are also getting better and better. Bravo!


Aloha!

Very nice Kathie and thanks for sharing!

i only made it through the first series before bed time...as usual fantastic pics...

Thanks, everyone, I have conveyed your comments to Cheryl.

i've now looked at two sections...they are wonderful...now i think i may have to rearrange priorities and head there soon....

I'm glad you are enjoying them, Bob.

Kathie, I am doing the Everest Bse Camp trek in about three weeks and need a sub-zero sleeping bag. Are there plenty of camping shops (reputable, not dodgy knock-offs) in Kathmandu?
Here in Australia they are SOOOO expensive ($500).

Also, are there ATMS in the airport or is it a good idea to have a bit of Nepalese currency? US dollars too?

Getting around ok? Even without a guide?

There are plenty of camping shops. Ther are lots of knock-off available, some are good quality some are not. You should be able to find what you need in Kathmandu.

There is an ATM on the outside of teh airport building, right after you leave the arrivals hall. Just ask - someone will point you to it.

If you are getting a visa on arrival, you might want the right amount in US$, though they will accept AUS$, though may not be able to give you change. You'll only use Nepalese currency once you're through the visa process.

It's very easy to get around. Taxis are cheap, just make sure you negotiate a price before you get in. The only places where you might want a guide are at the Durbar Squares, and then only to get all of the history.

Let me know if I can answer any other questions.

Have a great trip!

ttt

How could I have missed this the first time around???!!!

Great report as usual Kathie,love the details and my hats off to Cheryl once again, she really knows how to capture the essence of a place. I'm surprised at how much I recognise from my 1998 trip.

Thanks, Femi, I'm glad you enjoyed my report and Cheryl's photos.

Great report Kathie! What fun reliving all the wonderful places we visited in and around Kathmandu by reading your story. You did a great job summarizing the region, its sights and the culture...a excellent reference for me, thanks.

I also really enjoyed the photos! Lovely of you to share your trip!

Thanks, erwench. I'm looking forward to reading your report!

Well Kathie, accidentally I seem to be heading back to Kathmando-o-o-o in a fortnight - so, of course, the first thing I thought of was your stellar report to catch up on all the things I've missed before.

Here it is again, back where it belongs - on the top of the board.

Have a great time, dogster. And please report back on all the great places I missed!

Hi Kathie-- you mentioned the departure tax has to be paid in Nepalese Rupee... are there any ATMs inside the airport, before you have to get to the point where you have to pay the departure tax? Or Did you exchange some $$ before you landed in Nepal?

The departure tax is paid when you are leaving Nepal, not upon arrival. Upon arrival, you'll need US dollars for your visa on arrival. Get Nepalese rupees from an ATM as you depart the airport, the ATM is on the outside of the terminal building. People can direct you to it.

Technically, Nepalese rupees are not an exchangeable currency. That is, they have no value outside of Nepal. So don't bother trying to get Nepalese rupees before you go.

Just make sure you save enough rupees to pay your departure tax.

Got it, thanks for the good info! I would've wasted my time trying to exchange money before going.

You can pay your departure tax in any currency you like. There's a big list of currencies on the wall. Relax. I don't know where Kathie's coming from. I think she's been smoking too much charas. lol.

It's a bit of a bun-fight at KTM airport. A smart traveler would avail him/herself of one of those bagmen who will guide you thru the ropes. Tip them 100. It's done - they'll take you where you need to go and wait.

dogster, unless I totally misunderstood the signs in the airport, you can, indeed, pay for your visa in quite a number of currencies (but many cost more than just paying with US dollars). However, the signs say you *must* pay your departure tax in Nepalese rupees. There is an exchange window nearby where you can exchange other currencies for Nepalese rupees at a less than optimal exchange rate.

PS I think I made all of this more confusing by lumping together airport arrival and departure info at the beginning of my report. Thus, travlr's question about the departure tax upon arrival and dogster's response above, which I believe applies to the visa fee rather than the departure tax.

lol now I'm confused. Either way, it's easy.

Katie, how many days were you in Nepal?

Sorry, make that "Kathie"