Karen and Blip go to India with Intrepid

My Delhi photos are online:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p283555214


I'll post more later.

Oh, it's fun to read about your trip! Both of us were first-timers to India this year.

Great that you and Blip loved it, Karen. I was a bit concerned that his fur might make him to hot.
Glad you loved Intrepid and your guide. I'm thinking of a doing a small group tour for the future 2012 (to Gujurat--wanna come?).
Yes, it is fun and a bit puzzling when loads of people want your pic--especially the school kids. You feel like a a celebrity and wonder what you've done to deserve such attention!
Looking forward to the next segment...

The photos are terrific-- they cause smiling or laughing with great memories. Ah, Incredible India!

Thanks, Cali! Yes, the memories make me smile, too.

I meant to mention that the metro, despite the crowds, was unbelievably orderly. The people actually got in lines to board the trains rather than just crowding in like they do here at home. It really surprised me. Of course, once on board no one could even move because we were packed in like sardines.

Looking forward to reading the rest of your report, Karen! My DH has stated he can't get excited about India so I'm considering going solo, perhaps with a group like Intrepid. Which of their trips did you go on?

Wow! Great start and great pictures. Can't wait for more. Bniemand - don't give up on your husband. Mine said he would never go and now we are ready to book our flights for next November. While he sings to me nightly, ending all songs in "don't take me to India", he is also excited about going.

althom1122: You were quite fearful about a sneak snake attack. Looks like that didn't happen (at least, I hope not). Love your photos!

fantastic...i can't wait to see and read more...

bob

NO SNAKE ATTACKS. But... there is an interesting story, which I'll relay in the course of the report.

Remind me to tell you sometime about a nine-foot king snake and a Ford 150 pickup.

P.S. A few things I forgot to mention about Day 1. After the Sikh temple, we went to the spice market. We went up some steep stairs to a 2nd floor, open-air area. I saw a guy stretched out on what looked somewhat like a bed, but he was completely covered except for his feet. I thought he was dead. Tej later told me he was only sleeping. The spice market was an interesting place. The air was so thick with spices and pepper smells that it was really hard to breathe. Everyone was coughing and coughing (not just us but the locals, too). We walked past three men sitting on the ground, one of whom was lathered up and receiving a shave. I asked if I could take their picture and they smiled big and nodded yes (you'll see it in my photos). Right after that, we saw a man urinating with his back to us. He then turned toward us, zipped his pants, said hello, and walked past. We then went back down the stairs to the ground level and stopped at a nut stand to stock up on snacks for our train ride the next day. Also forgot to mention that the only man in our group, John, was pick-pocketed on the metro and lost his wallet and credit cards that first day. Tej loaned him money throughout the trip - it wasn't until the last day that he got a replacement card. Intrepid took good care of him.

Also that day, at dinner, I informed Tej and the others about my snake phobia. Tej said it was possible we'd see snake charmers at some of the tourist sites, but he'd keep his eyes peeled for me and steer me away. He reassured me it wouldn't be a problem. The others (by this time we'd already bonded) agreed they'd look after me.

JAIPUR

After a sleep that was all too short, we left the hotel via two taxis at 5:15 for a 6:05 train to Jaipur. The station was hectic - with tuk-tuks, taxis, and people everywhere. Quite a few people were sleeping on the cement floor under blankets inside the station. The train left on time and the ride was fine - there were three reasonably comfortable seats on each side and breakfast was included (tea or coffee plus an omelet or vegetarian wrap). Even the bathroom wasn't too bad, although it was Indian style (squat). It was about 4 1/2 hours to Jaipur, where a van took us to our hotel, the Bissau Palace. http://bissaupalace.com/facilities.htm

It was really cool. Like something out of the Arabian nights. After a brief rest, we ate lunch at the hotel on a patio overlooking the pool (a bit cool for swimming), then headed out in our van for Amber Palace, just a few miles outside of town. I was wowed. In fact, I kept saying "wow, wow, wow". The sun shown on the fort walls making them truly amber-colored. With the scalloped walls and arches and intricate mosaics, I found myself imagining flying carpets swooping all around. Lot of kids (and even a few adults) asked for pictures with us. The views of the countryside from that mountain-top perch were beautiful.

Enroute back to the hotel, we had two shopping stops - at a pottery place and a jewelry store. I bought a small vase for a friend at the former, nothing at the latter. I know some people don't like shopping stops by tour groups, but I didn't mind them. There was no real pressure to buy and they weren't overly long. Plus, given that there were 7 women in our group, the shopping was a fun part of the trip.

That evening was an included dinner, and Tej took us to another hotel/palace. The dinner was a buffet and quite nice. I had some chicken tikka and spinach panneer (or something like that?), plus samples of some other things. We went around the table and shared our highlight of the day. For me it was Amber Palace. Tej said, as a tour guide, his highlight was seeing my face light up every time I said "wow".

Afterwards there was a small puppet show outside - we were the only guests. Basically there were four puppets in the background that never moved and then they'd announce, here's the king with his horse. And a king puppet and a horse puppet would drop down onto the stage and the horse and king would move. So after about the fourth different puppet, the announcer said, "And here's the snake charmer..."

Of course, everyone looked at me and down dropped this puppet with a flute and a basket. And out came a little puppet cobra that went up and down and then back and forth across the stage. Everyone got quite a laugh out of it and congratulated me on being so brave.

At the end, the mother-daughter pair from Australia (Lidia ad Kathy) bought a pair of puppets, and so did I. (No snake puppets, though.)

Then we headed back for a good night's sleep. More Jaipur later...

Oh, one more thing on day 1 in Jaipur. When we left the puppet show, we had to take tuk-tuks back to our hotel. Tej said we could 2 tuk-tuks or we could squeeze into one rather than send some of the women separately. We were game and somehow all seven of us crowded into one tuk-tuk (John had skipped the puppet show and gone back early, and one of the women was sick and had stayed back at the hotel). We laughed all the way home. It suddenly seemed like we were teenagers again away at summer camp. It was so much fun. When we got back at the hotel, we all sat around the lounge area, ordered drinks, and talked. I introduced Blip - he was quite a hit.

And here are the Jaipur, day 1, photos to go with this latest installment.

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p233838108

more great pics....the guy with the red turban was in one of my pics too i think...

was it samode palace where you had dinner?? i remember they have a small puppet show in the courtyard there....

now i am excited again about the trip i am working on for next fall to india...

keep it coming

Great stuff, love the detail. Pleased that Intrepid worked out for you - although surprised by the shopping stops.

What fabulous pictures. Can't wait to read and see more.

Fabulous pics and a great report.

Your enthusiasm comes thru...you are having a great time in India.

Keep it coming.

All those bodies covered with blankets in the train station! The colors in India are so wonderful.

Yes, the small puppet show was in the courtyard, so that might well have been it, Bob.

Wishing everyone happy holidays! I'll be in Colorado for Christmas and will finish when I return.

Thanks. Same to you, Blip and Karen!

Hope you had a wonderful Christmas. Looking forward to reading more of your report soon!

I'm beginning to think I DO want to go to India. Your pix are great.

Namaste, Fodor's friends. I'm back from a wonderful Christmas in Colorado... with thoughts of India still on my mind. Picking up where I left off:

Jaipur, day 2

We slept in today and, after a modest breakfast buffet at the hotel, headed out for a walk through town. There were few other tourists in sight, and we quickly became an attention-getter, with many of the locals staring, smiling, and (especially the kids) wanting their pictures taken.

We strolled through a vegetable market that was in full swing. The colors are what I remember most - red and green peppers, white cauliflower, yellow bananas, and various other fruit and vegetables, served up by women in saris just as vividly colored. We saw a man carrying a couple of live chickens by the feet. They were flapping their wings and squawking - but likely unaware of their impending demise and de-feathering. Two young girls ran up to see if I'd take their picture - and and the result brought a round of giggles.

It was a glorious blue-sky morning, and Jaipur was bustling. Commerce was in full swing, and bicycles, motorbikes, cycle-rickshaws, tuk-tuks, goats, cows, men pushing carts, women carrying bundles on their heads, and pedestrians all vied for space in the street. It was a constantly changing scene, each second different from the previous. I was once again enthralled with India. It is a total sensory experience.

We had lunch at a hotel in the downtown area (forget the name). I had parhma saad (mixed vegetables), which soon had my mouth on fired - in a good way.

As we walked, we had a little interaction with people on occasion. One guy commented to a friend as we passed: "Very good height" (in response to Robin, who is indeed quite tall, about 6 feet). Another asked where we were from and when Lidia told him we were from Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and America, he responded: "Ah, mixed vegetables" (which may have instigated my lunch order!).

After lunch, Tej gave us the choice of the observatory or the city palace. In hindsight, I wish I'd picked the city palace (or managed to squeeze in both rather than squandering some time later that afternoon shopping!), but John suggested the observatory, and the rest of us agreed to give it a try. It's definitely worthwhile. Built by the king in the 18th Century, it boasts some amazing "technology" - an accurate sundial and various other astronomical tools. We had a local tour guide give us the inside scoop, and after quite a few pictures, we were sated.

As we were walking to the site, one of the women in our group quietly told me to head across the street and the others soon surrounded me and directed me onward. Turns out there were a couple of snake charmers across from the observatory, and they'd "saved" me from seeing them! I peeked over from across the street and saw the men and baskets but quickly turned away. Sydney said she did see a cobra come out of one of them. Panic attack averted!

Afterwards, we did some major shopping - after all, that evening was Bollywood night! I bought an Indian blouse, several of the women bought scarves, John tried on a turban, we picked up some calendars, and before you know it, the afternoon had faded and it was time to head back to the hotel to get ready for the evening. Not, however, before I stopped at a small stand for a lassi served in a clay cup. Yum! A lassi is a yogurt-like drink that can be ordered sweet or salty, plain or fruit-flavored (usually banana or mango). It was my favorite treat in India! At that stand, they only had sweet, plain ones, but banana ultimately became my drink of choice.

We met in the lobby, everyone decked out, for Bollywood night. Our van driver took us the theater, which was really beautiful. We had the best time. The theater was packed with locals (we were the only non-Indians I saw). I thought the movie was awesome. It was a little schlocky, but it was beautifully filmed. Every scene was like a vivi painting, vaguely reminiscent of Edward Hopper. It was in Hindi, but oddly enough, every 30 seconds or so, the actors would say a couple of sentences of Engish - just enough so we could follow the plot. I loved it! During intermission, Sydney and I bought some popcorn for 25 rupees (although there was a sign saying "no eatables" in the theater, everyone seemed to be ignoring it, so we did, too). After the movie, we went across the street and up to the 5th floor of a building to a disco club - complete with 70s and 80s American music, including Michael Jackson and Abba. It was a hoot! We ordered drinks and food, and all ended up out on the disco floor dancing the night away. Then we hopped a tuk-tuk (again we crowded into one) and laughed all the way back to the hotel.

Another successful day in incredible India.

Tomorrow: Agra and the Taj Mahal.

Sorry about all the typos - I didn't proof-read.

Here are the photos that go with this installment:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p918797071

yes next time head for the palace... its quite lovely

is blip liking india?

Blip LOVED India! (But he got really mad at one point - you'll find out soon!)

Enjoying your report and your photos!

Thanks, Kathie.

(Oops, I know Abba was a Swedish group, not American!)

And Cali - I had overlooked your earlier comment about Gujurat in 2012! I'll keep that in mind. I just asked Tej via email to give me a recommendation for a return trip to India! I'll let you know what he suggests.

Kathie
Planning a few days in India in April. Did I overlook the link to Tej? If not, can you give it to me. He sounds like what I am looking for. Thanks.
Shrink

OOPS!!!!!
Sent above to wrong person...sorry Kathie. Althom please forgive and if you have the link, would appreciate it.
Shrink

No problem. My name is actually Karen, so Kathie is close!
Tej is a guide with Intrepid so he doesn't have a link. I don't know if he does private tours, but I'll ask him and let you know.

I'll bet Tej will suggest Kerala!
I love how your new friends protectively surrounded and hussled you away from the snakes! Arent you glad you revealed your fear to them?
What movie did you see --did i miss its title?

Sounds like you had LOADS of fun!!!!!
There's something about India memories that makes me smile more broadly than those from equally wonderful places.
Is it the contrasts? the humor? Where else can you see a road sign directed at motorcyclists in the craziest traffic in the world, which says, "Hell or Helmet--choice is yours"

Shrink, I'll bet the photo galleries have whet your appetite for India, even for your 5 day trip. Think of this trip as an appetizer and see if you like it enough to spend more time one day, when you have that luxury.
A big Texan "yee-haw" to you!

The movie was Guzaarish - it was wonderful. Here's the trailer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9QiS6nw1DM

Great report and pictures. I am thoroughly enjoying it. Movie looked very interesting. Hope Blip enjoyed it too!

Thank you, Karen.

Now you're back home, one way to get you back in the spirit of India is to rent some good movies--both those produced in "Bollywood" and those with India theme.
Interesting what you'll notice, now that you've been.

One example of that is restaurant kitchen scene in "Slumdog Millionaire" where the brother is gluing the tops back on water bottles!!

Another is the family in "The Namesake" standing together in awe and appreciation and love, visiting Taj Mahal. Makes me shed a tear, every time.

There's a thread here with recommendations, and a veerrryyy long one on Indiamike.

Cali - yes, good idea. I've read The Namesake, but have movie.

I've just started reading Shantaram, and although it takes place in Mumbai (where I didn't go), I'm loving it!

That's "but have NOT SEEN the movie."

You'll love film of "The Namesake" Terrific scenes of Calcutta.The kind of train wreck that is in the movie (and book) happens all too often in INdia. There was another one a couple months ago.
Shantaream--i loved it too at first, but later it was too long for me. Did you know there are plans for a movie with Johnny Depp playing the lead?

Sorry to say, but the film has been shelved: independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/features/the-diary-shantaram-film--lumiere-festival-tom-atkinson-hans-holbein-harold-evans-1819450.html

I thought the movie "The Namesake" was as good as the book. The colors and scenery were wonderful.

Agra

Monday morning we had an early start for our bus (more like a van) ride to Agra. It was about 4 hours or so, with a brief toilet/snack stop (the only time on the entire trip I had cookies and candy - er, biscuits and lollies, as the Aussies said.

Driving into Agra it was clear that this was a rougher, dirtier (poorer?) town than Jaipur or even Delhi. Our hotel was the Grand Casa. It was drab and dingy but reasonably clean and there was hot water (once you figured out to turn on the hot water heater over the toilet and then turn the handle in the shower).

We walked to a restaurant for a quick snack/lunch, I changed into my Indian blouse (purchased for $7 for Bollywood night) and we headed for the Red Fort. There were a lot of touts outside pushing books and various trinkets, and I was afraid of seeing charmers - but there weren't any - just red-bottom monkeys running along the railing of the bridge over the moat. It was another beautiful day and the sun made the Red Fort live up to its name.

Our local guide was terrific - good English and great stories. He told us about the King and his amorous relationships. He told the guy in our group to be careful of Viagra because supposedly the King was with either a mistress or the queen in bed and...

Our group never did settle on how the story ended. Some of us thought the guide said the King "died with a heart attack" while others were equally sure he'd said the King "died with a hard d___" Either way, it was pretty amusing.

He also told us the romantic story of the Taj Mahal, which we could see off in the distance from one of the viewpoints - that a queen on her deathbed, after having given birth to her 14th child, requested three things: 1. that the king would not remarry 2. that he would raise all 14 children equally and 3. that he would build a monument in her memory (so he'd have a project to keep him going). He built the Taj Mahal over the next 32 years (one year per turret) and lived up to all three of her wishes. Her body was moved to the Taj upon its completion, and the king was later buried there after his death many years later. (This is guide, by the way, does offer independent tours, so if anyone is interested I'll dig out his card with contact info.)

So with that, we were all set for the Taj! What can I say? It lived up to all the hype! I was afraid it might be over-the-top tacky. But not so. It's gorgeous - it looks just like it looks if you know what I mean. Almost dream-like. A mirage, perhaps? It was a "wow". The inside, though, was something of a disappointment. I had assumed it was equally sumptuous on the inside. I don't think I realized it was a monument - I thought it was a palace.

Anyway, we put on the little slippers to cover our shoes and strolled down the long lane, snapping pictures like crazy. We were on our own for the Taj, as Tej (or Tej Mahaly, as one of tour members called him, waited on the outside for us). I ended up with Sydney and Robyn to bask in the beauty of the place, and the three of us explored together. Here, too, people kept wanting their picture taken with us. We remained celebrities throughout the trip.

We remained until just after sunset - and as the stone turned to amber, we headed back to the entrance to meet up with Tej and the gang.

That evening we had dinner at a little outdoor, rooftop restaurant with low tables. We ate family style (shared dishes) and everyone shared their story of love - by this time the group had really bonded and it was a wonderful evening. Somehow the entire trip reminded me of going to summer camp as a teenage - the camaraderie, the new experiences, the easy friendships. It was awesome - I certainly felt the exuberance of a child during much of the trip!

We then headed back to the hotel for some sleep.

Next up: the small town of Orccha.

Pictures for Agra:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p832299935

What fabulous pictures - so clear and vivid - can I ask what type of camera you have?
Also your tour sounds quite nice - I would not attempt India on my own either and this tour seems quite interesting. It really looks like your group got along so well.

Karen, I'm absolutely loving your report! Although we traveled differenty, I can definitely relate to the wonderful experience you had, and the love for India that is apparent in your report and photos. I met several people on an Intrepid Tour while I was there, and they were having a great time.

Your fans await the next installment!

Oh dear, I forgot to tell you about "the Taj Tragedy" -- after all my talk about taking Blip to India in large part to get his picture in front of the Taj Mahal.... he got left in the van! What happened was Tej told us we weren't allowed to take backpacks into the Taj - that basically all we could carry was our camera and possibly a small purse (depending on how strict they were that day). So I left my small backpack in the van, and only later, while we were taking pictures of me jumping in front of the Taj Mahal, realized that Blip was in the backpack in the van! He was so ticked off! I assuaged him later, though, by taking him to the erotic temples at Khajuraho. (More on that later.)

Thanks for all the positive feedback!

Mara - I had two cameras, a Panasonic FZ-100 with a long zoom lens and a small Canon S-95. Both did reasonably well, but don't have the quality of a DSLR. I do a little bit of post-processing using iPhoto, but they're still noisier than I'd like and don't have quite the detail of a more expensive camera with a larger sensor. I'm thinking about getting a better camera for my next trip. The S-95 is small and convenient, but there's a lag to the shutter that is frustrating when trying to get off a quick shot. Check out Nutella's pictures - they're stunning!

I'll write some more tomorrow.

i love the agra pics....so clear and nicely framed....

i booked my fall india trip today so i am excited after re-visiting agra thru your pics...

bob

Karen - so sad to hear that Blip missed his photo opportunity by the Taj, but loved seeing you jumping for joy! Can't wait to see your pics of Blip in front of the erotic temples. You are too funny!!!

I booked my tickets for India also today, but unfortunately my husband insisted that September/October would be the only time he could get away. While it won't be ideal weather, I'll suck it up and try to have a good time. (Poor me!!! - can't wait to get to India) Bob - I'm sorry that we will not be meeting up, but I'll try to report back to you before you leave. What dates did you get? We leave Sept 14 and return Oct 10.

Well then, Karen...you'll just HAVE to return to India with another visit to Taj Mahal for Blip.

Thanks, dgunbug. It took Sydney about five tries to get a shot where I was actually in the air. I kept jumping and jumping. Locals would pass by and smile at me and I'd just keep jumping.

It was amazing, by the way, how very few Western tourists we saw anywhere in India. More in Varanasi than anywhere else. But even at the Taj Mahal we didn't see hardly any other Westerners. (Maybe that's why we were such a popular item for photos!)

LOL, Cali! Blip would love that. (I would, too!)

You could probably photo shop Blip into the picture in front of the Taj!

Karen: you had a much clearer weather in Agra (well, most places actually) than we did in late November....our Taj shots appear "in the mist" (it was actually smog) -- but it was gorgeous nonetheless.

I found the interior of the Taj to be the worst experience of my trip -- it had rained for 2 days before our visit and the Taj would be closed the following day (Friday), so it was VERY crowded and the lines to go inside wrapped around the building. Once you got inside there was NO lighting and it was so dark you couldn't see anything (I'm not buying the idea that any light will damage inlaid STONE) and, worst of all, the police kept blowing their shrill whistles to keep poeple moving -- with the echoes off the marble it was actually painful.

Lovely pictures.
It's fun to see you having so much joy on your trip.

Too bad Blip did not get his picture taken at the Taj....things happen for a reason....just means you have to go back to India again so Blip doesn't miss a thing next time.

Can't wait to see what Blip was upto at the erotic temples!!

Skibummette, that sounds claustrophobic!
Many tour guides carry small bright flashlights to focus on the interior inlay. We were lucky--there were few people inside when we went June, and it was cooler (temp) inside than out.
Magical, LOL re Blip and the erotic temples. Good thing he isnt a stuffed rabbit...you know how those creatures are!
Blip, you are getting a reputation on Fodors! Though a Sheep, you're giving a naughty creature named Dog a run for his money!

Yes, we were lucky wrt weather. It was mostly in the 70s during the day and we had no rain at all. Several days were hazy/cloudy/white sky but overall it was pretty nice and with comfortable temperatures - a bit cool at night in Delhi. I think early December is good time to go.

Poor Blip!

Hi karen. I'm glad you had a great time. You seemed to make the most out of it and I must say some of those pics seem to be the king one sees in mags as award winners, the kind that seem to capture an essence, heart or soul. Very nice indeed. Its licky that our flight to Delhi didn't get fogged out as many do during this time period. Nice to see you back and thanks for the pics and the TR. Larry

Hi, Larry! Yes, we had a great time. Thanks for your comments on my photos (and also for your response about our upcoming cruise over on the cruise board!)


Orchha

We left Agra fairly early in the morning, although our train was delayed about an hour by fog/smog - not in Agra but in Delhi, where the train originated. I understand delays can be comment, but it only happened to us this one time. After a 3.5 hour train ride, we disembarked and boarded two taxis for the remainder of the trip to Orchha.

On the way, we stopped at an Intrepid-supported NGO- a paper-making facility that provides employment for women. Unfortunately, the women were on strike when we were there and had been for several days. The manager seemed taken aback at our arrival, but we got to see the grounds, work rooms, and of course the gift shop.

We also stopped at a school in a very small, rural town. The kids were adorable, but it was sad to see how poor they were. There were no desks; students sat on the concrete floor with paper notebooks on their laps. We passed out pencils, took some pictures, and shared some smiles. I'd visited a school in Cambodia - this seemed even poorer, I think because of the lack of desks.

The only other stop was at a pharmacy to get medicine for one of the women who had a chest infection. While standing outside waiting, we were soon surrounded by a group of boys - teenagers - who were either on lunch break from school or had just finished school. They were enthralled with us Westerners, and spoke just a little English. It was a fun interaction.

At Orchha, we checked into another heritage property, a former royal hunting lodge. It was really cool. Alas, still no hair dryer. (I'd taken a very small one but it was slow to get the job done. It was better than nothing, but not much. Only one hotel on our entire trip had a hair dryer - and we're not there yet.)

We toured the palace. Only Sydney and I wanted to go; the others decided to relax at the hotel. I'm so glad I went. We practically had the place to ourselves. There are some paintings on the inside that, although not nearly as old, made me think of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt.

Afterwards, Tej picked us up on a motorbike to take us to a cooking demonstration with the others. Yes, really - a motorbike. All three of us rode on it. I'd seen locals put multiple people on a motorbike, and had also seen it in Thailand. But I'd never experienced it. Sydney and I were both game and off we went! It wasn't far, but it was certainly fun.

The in-home cooking demonstration was delightful. Good food plus a fascinating opportunity to see someone's home. The family had two small children and the husband's sister also lived with them. The home was very clean and had bright pink walls. The two kids were adorable. We had masala chai (of course!), a chicken dish, some eggplant, and bread. It was all delicious. There were a couple of other things, but I don't remember. As we were leaving, some young men at a stand next door asked us to take their picture, and of course, I accommodated them.

We walked back to the hotel - about 15-20 minutes in the dark (this was a very small town!) - and went straight to bed. Next morning we were leaving about 9, and I decided I'd have time to make it into town on my own, so off I went on foot. It was a fascinating experience. I saw two little boys being schooled by their mom outside on a little patio. There was a man taking his cows out (or in?) for the day. Three young men in colorful green outfits asked me to take their picture. Some little girls on the roof of their house posed for me when I held up my camera and pointed at them. I saw a man pumping water at an outdoor water pump. Cows were wandering the street.

I realized I wasn't going to have time to walk back and started fretting about what to do. I saw a young man in his 30s standing next to his motorbike and (this is going to sound really stupid!) I asked him if he'd take me back to the hotel. I pointed at myself and then at the back of his motorbike and said "hotel"? pointing in the direction of our hotel. Well, his eyes got great big and he kind of leaned back. So I apologized and kept going. Once I made it into town, it occurred to me I might be able to find a tuk-tuk. Sure enough, there was a tuk-tuk stand and for 60 rupees, I was soon speeding back to the hotel. I didn't mention it until that evening. "Tej," I said, "there's something I didn't tell you about when I walked to town this morning..." and I told him about asking the guy for a ride home. Tej (and everyone) laughed and laughed - and of course made many jokes about the American woman who tried to get the local guy to go to her hotel... (duh)

Anyway, it was all good (no worries, Indian curries, as Tej says) and we headed for Khajuraho.

More to come.

And here are the Orchha photos (plus the stops on the way).

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p555764914

Loved the pictures and your descriptions. Still waiting for pictures of Blip at the temples!

loved the pics....

btw, the small car was the hotel limo

Glad you got to Orchha - I loved it there. And the palace is definitely worth a look, along with the chhatras, although I also liked just hanging out by the river.

Thanks for hanging in there with me. I know I can be long-winded.

Khajuraho

We took our two taxi/vans from Orchha to Khajuraho, and had an in-home lunch when we arrived. The household consisted of (I think) father/mother, grandmother, older daughter (or maybe niece), and two small children. I'm not quite sure I've got the relationships right. What was apparent based on our two in-home experiences, and from what Tej told us, is that that many India middle-class and lower-middle class families have extended families living together under one roof.

It was a great experience - loved interacting with the kids, and the food, once again, was terrific. After checking into our hotel, a Ramada (the only chain hotel we stayed in - and quite nice, with the only HAIRDRYER of the trip), we headed for the temples.

Our local guide at the temples was pretty entertaining (although even more long-winded than I am!). He had funny stories to go with some of the erotic statues, and although I'd heard about them before going, I hadn't actually seen pictures. They are, indeed, graphic. I wonder if Khajuraho is included on the Intrepid "family" trip! I can't imagine having to explain some of the statues to an 8-year-old.

Anyway, I found the temples fascinating. The reminded me of the Angkor temples, although they were built a bit earlier (starting around 950). They escaped devastation by invaders because they were abandoned and became overgrown. When the British rediscovered them, they literally took them apart and put them back together piece-by-piece, like a puzzle. They numbered the statues so they could put them back together right. You could still see the numbers on them.

We wandered around on our own for awhile after the tour. Blip didn't quite know what to make of it all, but he sure was checking out those statues.

Afterwards, we strolled through town for a little shopping, but the touts were on us like wool on a sheep (as Blip would say). It was the worst place of the entire trip for touts. I learned that saying "maybe later" was actually more effective than a definite "no." Oh, and also by this time, I had pretty well perfected the Indian head-bobble - which kind of means yes, but not necessarily. It's more like a non-committal "no problem," as Tej described it. He said it kind of depends on context, but apparently it communicates a lot to Indians. We all practiced it, although I'm not sure any of us became as skilled as Tej. (I'm now reading Shantaram, and there's a whole scene where the main character talks about it. I laughed when I read it because I'd already experienced it personally.) I did buy a few things there, notably a painting on silk, which is a gift for my daughter - I think she'll love it.

That evening we went to see a local dance. It was pretty good, and the costumes were gorgeous.

Khajuraho is worth a stop if you're in the area (and the sculptures are definitely something you don't see every day!), but personally I enjoyed Orchha much more and could have skipped the latter (or shortened the stop) in favor of more time in the former.

Next up Varanasi.

And here are the long-awaited photos from Khajuraho.

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p492220798

(Don't expect too much. I did some doctoring at home because my creative juices weren't slowing when we were there. Guess my brain was numb!)

er, weren't flowing.

(My typing gets worse and worse the older I get!)

ROTFLMAO of the photoshopped(?) Blip regarding the menages a trois. Looks like he coped just fine!

We saw similar at the temple in Hassan, Karnataka. My young adult daughter was a bit embarrassed by my animated comments! The guide didn't have the much sense of humor-- he'd heard it all before. No wonder some of those Hindu gods have numerous arms and hands!

There's a long thread on Indiamike about the head bobble -- funny. Also there are some youtubes on the topic. Have you seen Russell Peters do it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQqzROAZZQ0

My theory is it's an instinctive way of dealing with inner ear fluid imbalance, prior to riding in a car in traffic there.

I hope your daughter goes with you next time, Karen!

What a fantastic trip report - which Intrepid Tour was this exactly? I have traveled with Intrepid before and really enjoyed it. Thanks in advance

Hi danjagrrl - it was North India Highlights, a "comfort" tour. Here's the link:

http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/HHKH

I'm still following along and really enjoying the report and the photos! I'm curious too which Intrepid tour this was, and was the style "original" "comfort" or "basix".

If you look at my pictures, be sure to go all the way to the end to see Blip as the "party animal."

I hope my pictures didn't offend anyone. My apologies if they did.

bniemand - thanks for your feedback - it looks like we posted about the same time. You'll see the answer to your questions right above your post.

cali - thanks, I hope my daughter goes along next time, too! (I think she's just a little bit sorry she didn't go this time!)

The pictures are great and I love the ones with Blip in them!

I'll just have to travel with Blip more often!

Varanasi

The next morning we had a few hours for some final shopping in Khajuraho before heading to the airport for our flight to Varanasi. All went smoothly, and in about an hour we were there. I noticed in the Intrepid trip notes they're now changing it so that instead of flying to Varanasi, they take the overnight train. Not sure why they changed it (cheaper, I guess), but glad we got to fly.

The airport is a ways out of town, so two vans took us to our hotel, which was right on the Ganges. As much as we'd seen of hectic, chaotic India, that drive into Varanasi was unreal. Lots of activity, lots of daily life, lots of poor people. Our driver beeped the horn literally every 10 seconds or so. For the first 20 minutes it drove me crazy, then, well ok, just go with the flow. The beeping seemed a way that drivers communicated with one another. I'd heard lots of beeping before, but hadn't actually been inside a vehicle that beeped constantly.

We passed what appeared to be a political march with people campaigning for office - with signs and loudspeakers. At another point, we got held up by traffic on a very narrow road, and when I looked down at the "sidewalk" (we were in a van, so up higher than a car), there was a goat and a couple of small kids (baby goats, not human children). We realized that the kids had literally JUST BEEN BORN. We saw the back end of the mother goat, with gunk hanging out and a heavy sack, which suggested there may have been another kid still inside; this was about 5 feet from our van. The goat had just given birth right there on the sidewalk. When a couple of men saw us looking (wide-eyed, I'm sure), they smiled and pointed at the goat and kids. It was surreal. Goats born on the sidewalk, in a city?

We checked into our hotel, another heritage property, Palace on the Ganges, which was nice. Sydney and I initially got ground-level rooms, but they moved us up to the main level the next morning. We got a bite to eat at the rooftop restaurant (not great - too many flies) before setting out for a walk along the ghats. I can't even begin to describe Varanasi. It's a step into the past. Or maybe a step into a story book. It can't possibly be real, can it?

After our walk, we headed to the main commerce area. (Some areas, by the way were off limits to us because there had been a bombing at the main ghat a few days before our arrival. One woman was killed and about 30 others injured. Consequently, we didn't get to go to certain tourist spots.)

We had another shopping stop that evening - at a scarf/tablecloth/bed covering place. A silk shop. It was really fun. I had wanted to buy some scarves in a relatively low key environment and this was cool. One of our group bought some material for saris. Two bought duvet covers. And most of the rest of us bought some scarves.

Afterwards, we took cycle rickshaws (yay - I was wanting to do that!) to dinner. Tej picked out a very low-key place - an upstairs restaurant with an outdoor terrace. We had it to ourselves. Then it was back to our hotel and to bed.

I'm going to keep it short tonight and will finish Varanasi soon. I took so many pictures there that it will take me awhile to sort through them and get them posted.

More to come, including boat rides on the Ganges and an encounter with a renowned swami...

is blip glad to be home in its own bed??

we hope to stay at temple on the ganges, just next door to your place.....did you happen to venture in there?

Bob - no, I didn't, but it is in a good location. Not right in the center of things, but right on the river, and in an area where there are lots of ghats so you can walk quite a ways along the river. We saw an aarti ceremony right there practically in front of our hotel. And of course, it's easy to pick up a tuk-tuk to take you wherever you want to go.

I think I've gone on too long, so I'll wrap up.

Varanasi, part 2

The next day in Varanasi we started with a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges. Seeing the city come to life in the early morning was a special experience - a highlight of the trip. Bathing, laundry, cremations, and prayer unfolded before our eyes. When we returned, I walked along the river for little while with a couple other women, and I decided I wanted to at least rinse my hands in the holy water. We did so, and then returned to our rooms to shower (we needed it!), have breakfast, and get ready for our morning walk.

The rest of the day we walked around, did some shopping in the very hectic central city area - very different from our relatively quiet ghat area by the river - and visited a palm reader (who told me a big love affair is in my future and that I'll live a long life - until 92).

That evening we enjoyed another boat ride on the river. We joined another Intrepid tour group, so there were about 20 of us total. Tej surprised one of our group with a birthday cake (we sang to her on the boat, then shared the cake later at dinner, back on shore). Musicians played classical Indian music (sitar and drums), while we participated in lighting the candles arranged on the floor of the boat. When they were all lit (100 or more), we took turns leaning over the edge of the boat to put them on the water to float away (and made wishes). It was beautiful.

When we returned, a Hindu aarti ceremony was under way on shore. We joined the locals, 80 or so, in watching the holy men twirl the torches. When flowers were handed out at the end, they included us, and we joined the locals in walking down to the banks of the river and throwing them into the river. All in all, it was a most satisfying day.

After an inexpensive dinner at a hotel restaurant near our own hotel, we went to bed, and the next morning, after a short walk on my own and a visit to a henna artist (in her home, arranged by Tej) with the other women, we headed back to the airport for our flight back to Delhi.

Swami meeting...

Interestingly, another trip highlight, for me, occurred on the airplane. Sydney and I happened to be seated next to a Hindu holy man. About halfway through the flight, he caught my eye, and I saw a special face - unusually intelligent and kind, with very warm eyes. I asked if he spoke English, and he said yes. This may sound overly dramatic, but the next 45 minutes turned out to be one of those touching, awe-inspiring, life-changing experiences. We learned (later) that he's a renowned spiritual leader in India. It was clear we were in the presence of a man of faith. He'd heard our rather personal conversation, and offered words of wisdom and comfort. And before you know it, I was all teary-eyed. He reached over and took my chin in his hand and then gently wiped away a tear with his finger. Soon Sydney was also in tears. I can't even remember the details of what he said, but I know it was full of wisdom and "truth" and that it was just what I needed to hear (hope that doesn't sound too corny). He also told us a little about his personal story - about leaving home at the age of 8 to begin a life devoted to God.

He ended up giving us a magazine about his foundation (an NGO that he founded) - and when we opened it, we were surprised to see pictures of him with Bill Clinton, the Pope, the Dalai Lama, and other world leaders. He'd had copies of the magazine in his bag because he'd been in Varanasi for an ecology conference on cleaning up the Ganges. If you're curious, here's his foundation: http://www.ihrf.com/index.html and here's the section about him personally
http://www.ihrf.com/pujyaSwamiji.html (And if you check out my pictures when I get them finished - soon - you'll see my pictures of him.)

That evening, back in Delhi, we had dinner at the same place we'd eaten on our first evening together. We'd come full circle. Afterward, Tej invited us to meet in his hotel room for our good-byes. He had a little ceremony, telling us how much he enjoyed our group, and concluded by dabbing a red spot on each of our foreheads and tying a little friendship bracelet on each of our wrists. (Even Blip got a friendship bracelet.)

The tour ended the next morning, but four of us had booked an extra night in Delhi, so we spent the day together. We visited the Lotus Temple (met up with friends of one of the young women from Australia who had gotten married a couple of weeks before in India) and also a craft shopping area.

The next day - early, early, early - I flew home, via Heathrow, to Baltimore. I'm back to my "regular life" but India is still on my mind. I feel the way I did after my Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia trip. It got in my bones in a way that some of my other trips (including Egypt and Peru - as much fun as they were - did not). India is special. I know I want to go back.

I'll follow up with some final thoughts, tips, and lessons learned. Hope you've enjoyed following along with me.

(Will let you know when the rest of my photos are finished.)

I have very much enjoyed following along with you and Blip, Karen. Thank you for taking us along!

I had difficulty showing restraint with this last batch because Varanasi was so memorable and so photogenic, so here they are:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p467470524

A wonderful trip report,althom1122. And what a great finish.
A trip to India brings meaning to one's life, doesn't it?

Your insight into the prism of old culture without being critical of the lack of modern conveniences is delightful.

I have been on many great trips to different parts of the world, but in the end the places I want to go back to again are all in India.

And the swami added a wonderful twist and flourish to your exciting visit to India.
Thank you for sharing your experiences with us.

When do you start planning your next trip? India again??

Great pictures too.

In answer to your hope, Karen--i loved following along with you!! You've been to places I've yet to see and some with which i am already, happily , familiar. It is so wonderful to hear your fresh perspective. Sooo glad it turned out even better than you'd hoped for....and no in-your-face snake encounters!! Having a good group of people--some of whom will become long time friends-- to share your adventures adda to the joy. Bravo to you and Blip ,and thank you for sharing the story. Looking forward to your wrap-up thoughts and tips.

If anyone hasn't yet seen my Varanasi photos, I've split them into two albums (and have added another album of miscellaneous shots that I hadn't included before). Probably too much for the casual observer, but they're out there if you want to check them out.

(Slide show, by the way, can be a pain. It's easier to click on a thumbnail and then just page through manually.)

Here's the link to all the India albums.

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/f278879105

I'm sorry to see your adventures ending. It was wonderful following along with you and your descriptions were wonderful. Glad you enjoyed it so much and your information was definitely helpful for our upcoming trip. And I loved the slide show. Just adjust the speed level.

Thanks again, Karen, for inviting me along on your fabulous trip! Your photos were just amazing - I didn't have any trouble viewing the slideshow and the speed can be adjusted. I doubt I will visit India but if I did I would certainly consider using Intrepid.
btw, I think you had your own room - did you need to pay a single supplement?

Karen I must say again how amazing your pics are. You have a knack for capturing the essence of the place. Have you ever had your pics published and do you do this professionally? My wife and I just looked at the Varanasi and Agra pics and were delighted by all of them.

i've loved the story and i loved the pics....can't wait to get there in november

Thank you, everyone! I really appreciate your comments.

magical - yes, a trip to India does somehow bring meaning... which is so ironic given what a chaotic place it can be. I guess it's... magical! India's not next, but it is in my future, I hope. Next up is a Caribbean cruise with my sister and two friends. Then in the fall, I'll be off to Turkey. And then... who knows. Maybe to Australia to visit my new friends there. Or maybe back to India!

Cali - thanks, it DID turn out even better than expected! And I'm soooo relieved that there were no surprise snake encounters.

dgunbug - glad you enjoyed the slide show (yes, adjusting the speed does help).

Mara- I did pay a single supplement, although they'll pair you with a roommate if you don't want to. I really like my own space at the end of the day, though, so I paid. It was an extra $320, which I didn't think was bad.

jacket - thank you so much, I really appreciate that. I've never had any pics published, but (if I may boast a little), I've been runner-up in two of Fodor's photo contests (Peru and Egypt). I'm about to upgrade my camera to a dSLR, so I'm hoping I'll be able to improve. It's a hobby that I'd like to get into more as I get closer to retirement.

and bob - thanks! i'll be looking forward to YOUR trip report and photos when you get back! and will be eagerly watching for the itinerary you decide on with castle.

I'll be back in a few days with tips/top 10s/final thoughts. Will probably create a new thread to call attention to it for people who might be interested but haven't lasted through this tome.

Looking forward to your final thoughts.

the sunrise boat trip photos are incredible!

Karen, just stumbled upon your report and so glad I did! Thanks so much for sharing your photos and your stories, thoroughly delightful and enchanting. Now I want to return to India - such a wonderfully vibrant country. So glad you had a good trip with Intrepid.

Thanks, bniemand. It was an incredible morning!

And julia1, I appreciate the feedback. And yes, I can understand wanting to go back. So do I!

I've just posted my final thoughts/trip highlights/tips in a separate thread if you're interested.

What a lovely report - I am almsot transported to these places!

Wonderful report and awesome photos althom1122.

Thanks, tongsa and JillianV!

Karen,

Loved you photos! The people we are beautiful, the cows too. I really love animals. Was wondered if you saw a lot of stray dogs wandering about? How did you deal with this? I bet it must have made you quite sad?

.........Christine

Hi Christine. Yes, there are lots of stray dogs, and yes it's sad. They don't approach you (or at least it never happened to us). One day in Varanasi there was kind of a tiff between 3-4 dogs. Growling and chasing. I was worried there was going to be a dog fight, but it quickly calmed down. I'd never approach one for fear it might have rabies, but I never felt threatened or anything either. Basically, sad - most were pretty skinny. But lots of poverty among the people, too...

I just have to post a quick update to let you all know that I recently returned from a (mostly work) trip to Australia, where I had a reunion with three of my tour buddies in Sydney - Lidia, daughter Kathy, and Robyn.

We had a wonderful time catching up. Our day together, including lunch and a walk around the harbor area, followed by a quick boat ride, was full of laughter and hugs. I then got to spent the night at Lidia's home (along with Kathy) and met the rest of the family. They took me on a tour to the Blue Mountains the next day.

We just picked up where we'd left off last December - it was so easy and fun being together. It's amazing how the experiences we shared in India formed such a strong foundation for lasting friendship.

what grade will blip be in this year?

Bob - Blip already has his sheepskin....



(sorry, couldn't resist.)

how about a doctorate in international travel? harvard