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Japan - 3wks solo - Kiso Valley logistics and which nights where!

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Japan - 3wks solo - Kiso Valley logistics and which nights where!

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Old Mar 16th, 2014, 10:05 PM
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Japan - 3wks solo - Kiso Valley logistics and which nights where!

Hello Fodorites!

I am a Canadian gal in my late 20's on my third solo trip but first-ever trip to Japan!
I've been pouring over Fodors and Lonely Planet and TripAdvisor and checking things with hyperdia but I've left planning much later than I usually do for this trip and hostels are booking up so I want to nail down where I'm going and when!

I'll be arriving April 18th at NGO at 7:00PM (LAX connecting through Narita).
General advise has been that Nagoya isn't worth the time, so I'm determined to make it onward to Kyoto from there. (Why didn't I just fly into KIX? Well, non refundable tickets have already been purchased and I figured semi open jaw was better than just return. Into NGO and home from Tokyo was the most affordable. No going back now!)

From my itinerary a 2wk JR pass, activated on the 19th, seems to make the most sense vs 3wk. Alas I'll be running into Golden Week part way through but will mostly be hunkering down in Tokyo for the last week (except for a day trip to Nikko at the end/post GW?)

April 18 - April 24: Kyoto (6 nights/5 days) - Day trips to Nara/Uji, if blossoms still (v unlikely) then Yoshino, would like to trek out to Takeda Ruins (not sure if this is pratical from Kyoto)
April 24 - April 27: Hiroshima (3 nights) - Day trips to Miyajima and Okunoshima
April 27 - April 28: Koyasan (1 night)
April 28 - April 30: Kanazawa (2 nights) - Depart early 2nd day to stop over at Shirakawa-go
April 30 - May 2: Takayama (2 nights) - early departure 2nd day to Kiso Valley to hike post towns Magome - before making way back to Tokyo evening of 2nd
May 2 - May 8: Tokyo (6 nights) - Day trip/poss overnight to Nikko

I don't know if it's practical to fit in the Kiso Valley here and by that time we're into Golden Week and I expect many locals will be making the trek.
I could take one night away from Takayama and either put it before Kanazawa by going from Koyasan to Nagoya, doing the Kiso Magome to Tsumago hike, and then overnighing in Nagoya and onto Kanazawa - Takayama - Tokyo.

Or, I could put it after one night in Takayama, overnight in Nagoya and do the Kiso Valley before heading onto Tokyo.

Or, I could leave it as is and try and mash it in leaving Takayama early, doing Tsumago to Magome and then onto Tokyo,

I've only booked Kyoto, Koyasan and Tokyo re hostels so far.

I really appreciate any input and advice!
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Old Mar 16th, 2014, 11:02 PM
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Hi, I'm not sure I'll have much advise as I've never been myself and am just in the middle of planning a trip for later this year. But if you're trying to find a night somewhere to fit something else in or give you more time at a different point, everything I have read on all forums and travel reports is that most people just spend one night in Hiroshima but you have three, or they do Hiroshima for 1/2 day and then travel to miyajima and spend the night there to allow more time on the Island and also experience at a time that the day trippers have left.

Would you mind sharing which accommodation you have chosen for Kyoto and Tokyo? I'm still making my mind up where to book, but would love to find somewhere not too expensive so that I can splash out somewhere else.
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Old Mar 16th, 2014, 11:52 PM
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Hi Sylvie!

Yeah, not sure if it's too long in Hiroshima, but I figure there's always day-trips (plus in addition to Miyajima I have a weird fixation on seeing that island overpopulated by bunny rabbits...)

As for accommodation, I've been relying on 'ol hostelworld.com to make my picks based on ratings (I'll often choose the highest few places and then skim their detailed reviews, selecting 'view by lowest ratings' to get a good feel for it. If the worst they can say is 'not a big party place' or 'snoring in my room' (that's not really the hostel's fault!) then I'm in. I'm staying at Piece Hostel and then Khaosan Kyoto Theater for the Kyoto bit. (The Khoasan Theater one has super cute looking capsule-type 'kimono' beds for about JPY 3800/night.
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Old Mar 17th, 2014, 04:31 AM
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Thanks for that! I'm looking at Nui or Toco Hostels for Tokyo at the moment, but haven't found anything for Kyoto yet. Was thinking to maybe go with airbnb, instead of a hostel. Looking forward to seeing your final itenerary.
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Old Mar 17th, 2014, 02:49 PM
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Should be a great trip!

I thought Kanazawa worth at least 2 full days (I gave it only 1.5 days and sorely regret that decision) and Takayama worth at least 1.5 to 2 days, so you might want to see what you can do to add a bit to one/both of them.

I am very glad I spent overnight in Nikko, as it allowed me time to see Kegan-no-taki and a bit of Lake Chuzenji in addition to the main sites in Nikko itself.

I was very glad that I spent a night on Miyajima, but that might not work for your budget.

I think it is wonderful that you are allowing yourself 5 days for Kyoto and Nara. You'll still have to be selective, but you should be able to see quite a lot.

Hope that helps!
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Old Mar 18th, 2014, 09:03 AM
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Hi kja,

Thanks for the feedback! Sounds like I ought not to take any nights away from Takayama.

I'd like to spend the night on Miyajima but it was a bit outside my budget. Thinking of staying in the hostel by the ferry though so at least I can stay on the island until the last ferry back at night to see things lit up.

The only thing I'm not sure I can fit in is Kiso Valley on the way from Takayama to Tokyo. It would make for a long day if I plan to do the 3-4hr hike between Magome and Tsumago but perhaps I can make it work.

I keep wanting to add even a day more to Kyoto (so much to see in and around!)and steal a night from Hiroshima, but since I want to do Okunoshima, which takes all day, and Miyajima, which will take most of the day, and I want to leave early enough to make it up to Koyasan before dinner, three nights makes sense.
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Old Mar 18th, 2014, 04:26 PM
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"Sounds like I ought not to take any nights away from Takayama." -- I agree. I haven't checked the travel times, but it looks to me like you have only one full day in Kanazawa and only one full day in Takayama, and I would find those times frustratingly short. If you stick with this plan, you would do well to think through your priorities in advance, as you will almost certainly need to be quite selective.

Yes, Miyajima can be price-y. You can check the tide schedules on line and try to time your visit to maximize your chance of seeing both low and high tide. If you can't see both -- and you might not be able to! -- I'd place greater priority on low tide, because once the water is deep enough to cover the base, the "extra" height probably isn't all that obvious to those of us who haven't seen it before.
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Old Mar 18th, 2014, 08:58 PM
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The original plan is good. On the morning of May 2, you would have the option of going to Kiso Valley as planned or just skipping it. You end up in Tokyo one way or another.

The idea of Kiso Valley before Kanazawa is not good. Before you think abut doing that you ought to consider changing your itinerary around to take advantage of that fact that you are arriving at NGO. NGO is the perfect arrival point if you head to Kiso and/or Takayama first.

With one exception, the idea of spending one night in Takayama and one night, May 1, in Nagoya has merit. On May 2, you stash your bag in a locker at Nagoya station, go walk the Nakasendo, then back to Nagoya to pick up your bag and then shinkansen to Tokyo. The exception is the fact that in order to make your stop in Takayama worthwhile, you wouldn't want to leave there until late afternoon or early evening on May 1 and that means that your ride on the Takayama Line would be at night. It is an enjoyable trip in daytime.
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Old Mar 19th, 2014, 05:51 AM
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It's a good strong itinerary.

As Sylvie has said, your 3 nights in Hiroshima seems high, even with your plans to visit both Miyajima and bunny island. If you travel early morning to Hiroshima and spend a few hours exploring the peace park and museum, you could then go to Miyajima for the afternoon and overnight. Realise accommodation there is pricier, so may depend on what you can find. Perhaps there are some affordable minshuku options? Then take the ferry back to the mainland late the next morning and head to your bunny island for the rest of that day. Either overnight on bunny island or back in Hiroshima. Next morning (or later), leave Hiroshima for your next destination.

BUT I don't know logistics of travel times to your bunny island so perhaps you'll need all three nights to make this work?

Agree, don't drop any nights from Kyoto. You won't regret your time there. Likewise, Takayama has plenty for 2 nights, don't drop either of those...

I can't comment on Kanazawa having never been, but 2 nights fits well with everything I've read from others.

If anything, I'd take one Tokyo night and give it to Kyoto, just because I found more to see and do and love in Kyoto than Tokyo, though both are fascinating and easily merit weeks and weeks and weeks, so either way works...
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Old Mar 19th, 2014, 07:55 AM
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Wow, thanks for all the responses!

Kja - Thanks for the tidal suggestions. I'll check out something like this http://www.tidetime.org/asia/japan/miyajima.htm the week before I'm there to time it right.

mrwunrfl - Thanks for the vote of confidence. I think I'll probably stick close to that original plan. Perhaps the bag-stashing idea would work even if I do it on the 2nd (Takayama(early)-NGO to stash bag - Kiso Valley - NGO retrieve bag and onto Tokyo...)

Kavey - Thanks for the feedback! I'm still debating those 3 nights. I think if anything I'd steal one from Hiroshima to add back to Kyoto. (You're not kidding - seems there are so many things to see and do there!) With 3 nights I was thinking Kyoto-Hiroshima late morning with that day/afternoon to see Hiroshima, sleep in Hiroshima Next day early-ish 2hr train to bunny island (plus 15min boat ride there), 2-3 hrs on bunny island, 15min ferry back, 2hr back to Hiroshima for dinner and sleep Hiroshima. Then early to Miyajima, spend the whole day there, then back to Hiroshima at night to sleep. Then next day departing early-ish on to Koyasan. I figure if my full Hiroshima day isn't 'doing it' for me, I could also do a side trip down to Tomonoura (http://en.japantravel.com/view/tomo-no-ura ) and see the 'Ponyo' fishing town.

If I did just two nights, I suppose I could leave Kyoto early a day later, do Okunoshima on the way (2-3hrs to get there, 2-3hrs on the island, 2hrs to get to Hiroshima), and then end up early evening in Hiroshima. Then I could spend half the next day in Hiroshima, half the day in Miyajima and overnight back in Hiroshima with a late morning departure to Koyasan. Hyperdia suggests if I leave from Hiroshima Station around noon I should still be in Koyasan by around 4:15pm.
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Old Mar 19th, 2014, 11:54 PM
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Hi Music Diver

Given that you have more that you want to see in the Hiroshima area - not just Hiroshima and Miyajima but also bunny island and Tomonoura - perhaps it makes sense for you to stick with your three days.

The thing to remember is there's no wrong answer here. Giving yourself more time here and less time elsewhere, you'll enjoy whatever you do and you'll (probably) always wish you had longer in some places - that's the nature of travelling to Japan, for most people I know, anyway...

So either way, don't fret because you'll have a great trip.

It's really coming down to personal preferences at this point, your trip looks practical so when I say "I'd take one Tokyo night and give it to Kyoto" all I'm expressing is that personally I found more to see in one than the other. But both were fascinating and I could happily spend more time in virtually everywhere we've been in Japan so far!

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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 06:06 AM
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Kavey,

Too true of travel. Often making that sacrifice and thinking "well, I'll just have to make it back some day" for more / the other places is the only way to enjoy the experience.
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Old Mar 21st, 2014, 05:21 PM
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The 3 nights in Chugoku makes a lot of sense to me because of your interests. You could take time away from Tokyo but use it in the middle part, after Koyasan. No need to rush through Kanazawa and Shirakawago is very much worth an overnight.
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Old May 13th, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Hello everyone!
Just wanted to give a quick thanks for all the feedback and input. I stuck more or less to the plan listed above (didn't do the Kiso Valley after all. Wanted to have a leisurely morning in Takayama and then just make my way out to Tokyo.)

I'm so glad I stuck with 2 nights in Kanazawa rather than one(thanks kja!) - it was such a nice small cosmopolitan city. Great art galleries and so many little independent cafes like Dumbo. And if anyone is interested in Hawaiian themed pancakes (hey, it's still a Japanese experience - it's such a fad in Japan) with surprisingly good coffee, Puni was pretty tasty - http://ksnetwork.com/chain/puni/kanazawa/lunch.html )

Okunoshima was also something of a highlight - feeding all those bunnies with the contrast of the dark history of chemical weapons production and the bright sunshine filtering through present day palm trees. Worth the hour+ train from Hiroshima. (Of course Miyajima was beautiful too)

I loved Kyoto and was very glad I had 6 nights there (and glad to be there before Golden Week), but equally glad I had 6 nights in Tokyo (time to go wander the 'hipster' neighbourhoods of kichijoji and the like. So much variety to be found in a city that size!)
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Old May 13th, 2014, 10:34 PM
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So pleased you had a great trip!
Any photos anywhere? x
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Old May 16th, 2014, 08:07 AM
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Oh, I'm so glad you enjoyed Kanazawa enough to agree that the extra time was worth it! And thanks so much for letting me know you found my input helpful.
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Old May 20th, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Kavey (and anyone else interested), photos can be viewed here: https://imageshack.com/a/4xaq/1
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