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Itinerary set for Japan trip #2: working on some details

Itinerary set for Japan trip #2: working on some details

Old Feb 7th, 2016, 04:30 AM
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Itinerary set for Japan trip #2: working on some details

Thanks to all for your comments on my previous planning posts for Japan trip #2, beginning just after Golden Week. It took a while to nail down accommodations, partly because of my waffling, but now everything is set. I’m now working on filling in the details - - looking for specific recommendations for places you especially enjoyed in each city, restaurant recommendations and a little help with the trains. Here goes:

May 9 (arrive late afternoon) – 12: Tokyo
May 13: Lake Kawaguchiko
May 14-15: Matsumoto/Asama Onsen
May 16-17: Takayama
May 18-20: Kanazawa
May 21: Ishikawa (The Kayotei)
May 22-25: Kyoto
May 26 evening: Osaka airport hotel (not sure if we will spend day in Kyoto or Osaka)
May 27: back to DC from Osaka to Tokyo to Dulles

First: maybe I’m missing something but it doesn’t look like either the 7 or 14 day JR pass is worth purchasing. From what I found on Hyperdia, individual ticket prices (including seat reservations) are as follows:
To Kawaguchiko, 4380; to Matsumoto, 6080, to Takayama take a bus (since this will be faster than the train), to Kanazawa, 4950, to Kayotei 2030, to Kyoto 6030. Have I not taken anything into consideration?

If it makes any difference, we will probably take the Narita Express to Tokyo Station (near our hotel) when we arrive on May 9, we will probably not do any day trips out of Tokyo while we are there. I can’t make head or tail of the regional passes - - one of those might make sense so this is where I can really use some help, especially for some of the combination passes and/or bus discounts.

Second, what are your personal “do not miss” spots or activities especially for Takayama, Kanazawa and Kyoto?

Finally, asking again, has anyone gone to the Fuji Shibazakura (Pink Moss) festival? This is why we are going to Lake Kawaguchiko and hoping to see Fuji-san, since the weather didn’t cooperate on our trip to Hakone. Looking for advice on logistics as there are special buses during festival time.
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 05:12 AM
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I leaned heavily on japan-guide.com for my Must Sees across much of Japan, though I also read trip report threads here on Fodors.

For Takayama, my do not miss would be the morning market, a gentle stroll along the river bank. I went to the Miyagawa one - there are two to choose from. http://www.kaveyeats.com/2012/12/miy...-takayama.html

Of course the traditional districts are beautiful to wander around - we liked peering in to sake breweries, a place making miso paste, various producers of traditional sweets and so on. The Higashiyama temple walk is also charming.

For food, we had originally booked a different far more expensive place but on arrival, we realised it was quite out of the way. The owner of our ryokan suggested this place, which she'd recently dined at for a family special occasion. http://www.kaveyeats.com/2012/12/hid...ama-japan.html

In Takayama, don't miss the many different street snacks available - http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/01/mitarashi-dango.html and http://www.kaveyeats.com/2012/12/owa...-takayama.html were my favourites, though there was also a glutinous rice sweet we watched being made and some crisp fried whole fish on sticks too. And of course hida beef on sticks!
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 09:33 AM
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I would also recommend that you consult japan-guide.com to get information about what you might want to do in these locations.

Among the things I enjoyed that don't hit everyone's lists:
Takayama -- the Hida Takayama Museum of Art:
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/s...kayamaart.html

Kanazawa -- tea ceremony at Gyokusen-en:
http://www.kanazawa-tourism.com/eng/...de1_1.php?no=8

Kyoto -- Looks like you'll be there during the Kamogawa Odori. Do try to get tickets!
http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/...kyoto_city/22/

Enjoy!
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 11:00 AM
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Kanazawa -

I second the Gyokusen-en tea ceremony. It's the real deal.

Ohmicho Market, in the morning.

Higashi Chaya Gai, the Geisha District. Take tours of the two tea houses.

and of course, Kenrokuen Garden.

Try and book Kikonoya with KimJapan and while you are at it, spring for a personal geisha performance there.
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 11:12 AM
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From Matsumoto to Takayama I highly recommend that you stop at Kamikochi for a few hours. On a nice day this is pretty much a do-not-miss. Get bus tickets to Takayama on arrival at Kamikochi if you can't get them in Matsumoto.

>>To Kawaguchiko, 4380
Good route. Note that ¥1,140 of that price would be Fujikyu Railway and not covered by a JR Pass if you had one.

>>to Kanazawa, 4950
That is the price for JR local(s) Takayama to Inotani to Toyama and then shinkansen to Kanazawa. There are other ways to make that trip that could be both faster and less expensive. About what time are you planning to leave Takayama?
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 12:18 PM
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>> Have I not taken anything into consideration?

There's this: https://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/t...nsai_hokuriku/

But it won't get you to the airport, so the price is high for your itin. Plus you would have to pay ¥970 or more to get from Takayama to Inotani because it is a JR Central on that bit, not JR West. Also you would have to use unreserved cars on the shinkansen and l'ex to Kyoto.

>>May 21: Ishikawa (The Kayotei)
>>to Kayotei 2030

Ishikawa is the prefecture. The Kayotei is in Yamanaka Onsen. What is the 2030 for? Bus from Kanazawa or rail and bus?
Address of Kayotei:
1-chome, Higashi-machi, Yamanaka onsen, Kaga-shi, Ishikawa-ken (meaning: 1-neighborhood, east-town, Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga-city, Ishikawa-prefecture

I see the 2030 is the limited express fare from Kanazawa to Kaga Onsen.

In that case, this pass is worth considering:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361_t..._hokuriku.html

You'd be able to get reserved seats on the limited express train from Takayama to Toyama and from Kanazawa to Kaga Onsen to Kyoto. Unreserved on the 23 min shinkansen from Toyama to Kanazawa.

Not a slam dunk, but worth considering.
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 01:26 PM
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You've gotten some good recommendations for Kanazawa.

I would go to Higashi Chaya first thing in the morning if possible to avoid the tour groups, you have the chance to stroll the streets with fewer people. The nearby Kazue Macha area is less touristy and an interesting area as well.

Kenrokuen Gardens and the nearby Kanazawa Castle are must see's as is the Nagamichi district (samurai district). The Myoryuji Temple (Ninja Dera) in the Teramachi area may be of interest.

The Omicho Market is great and if you go near lunch there are many small shops offering fresh seafood at very reasonable prices.
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 01:49 PM
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In Kyoto, my absolute top "do not miss" is the Fushimi Inari shrine. Highly spirtual, especially once you get a bit further up and away from the crowds. Kiyomizu dera and The Golden Pavillion are also must sees. Plan accordingly for the Golden Pavillion as it is a long bus ride out of the central city. And in spite of the crush of humanity, I also enjoyed Nishiki Market.
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Old Feb 9th, 2016, 11:58 AM
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Thanks to all you "regulars", very grateful for letting me know your favorites. Japan Guide has been extremely helpful, of course, but I love having all your personal recommendations also.

Mrwunrfl, of course, always there with train help! Looks like the JR West pass doesn't help because of the seat fees but the Takayama Hokuriku is a close call. When I add up Takayama to Kanazawa (4580 if I go at 11am), Kanazawa to KagaOnsen (2030) and Kagaonsen to Kyoto (6030), total is 13640 vs 13500 for pass (if I am reading the pass correctly, I do NOT have to pay seat fees on any of the trains between these routes with the pass). One question that may help me decide - - I get a voucher and then exchange it for the pass - - then do I have to make all the reservations at once when I get the pass or can I make them as I go along? I might want the flexibility of being able to take the bus to S-go between Takayama and Kanazawa instead of the train.
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Old Feb 9th, 2016, 02:09 PM
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What hyperdia labels as the "seat fee" is just part of the total price: there is no option not to pay it (it's like the "fuel surcharge" in airline prices). It has nothing to do with seat reservations, which are free with all the passes I've had (though there may be limits on how many times you can change them), but otherwise cost something like 500Y.

If you have a pass, you can make seat reservations anytime, at more or less any station, but you may have to stand in line with the people buying tickets. If you don't speak Japanese, write down what you want, though it may be best to utter the word "shitei-seki" (seat reservation) and show your pass to establish context. I've no-showed a couple of times without penalty when my plans changed, but it's unsporting to make a habit of it.
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Old Feb 9th, 2016, 02:51 PM
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Thanks, someotherguy, did not realize seat fee isn't optional. Not sure it makes a difference in the calculation of whether it pays to buy a pass, it helps to understand all the bits and pieces.
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Old Feb 10th, 2016, 11:22 AM
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>

Sanjūsangen-dō - the temple with about 480,000 statues of Kannon (number may be exaggerated).

And Nijo-jo - the heart of Japan's feudal empire.

Take a wander in Arashiyama.

Golden Pavilion is a bit overrated. It's there, in the middle of the pond and . . . pretty. But notsomuch worth going out of the way to see. I'm likely in the minority on this.

The Fushimi Inari shrine is excellent.

We had a Fr*****'s guide for Japan (don't want to name Fodor's competitor while posting here) and it recommended a restaurant that served great unagi in Matsumoto. Couldn't tell you the name because it was in Japanese only and I copied the symbols from the guide book to find the place.

Matsumoto-jo is excellent.

And if you have a sweet tooth, go KitKat'ing - there are 200 varieties of the Nestle treat that the company has marketed in Japan.
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Old Feb 10th, 2016, 12:07 PM
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BigRuss, no, I'm kind of with you. I wouldn't have missed it, given that we had time and it was certainly pretty. But it was not so high on the list of all the different temples we saw, in Kyoto and elsewhere.

Completely agree on Fushimi Inari.

I did write some pieces on temples in Kyoto, I forgot:
http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/12/kyo...-ema-tree.html
http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/02/mes...of-love-1.html (this is a series of 6 posts, various ones of which include a number of Kyoto temples)
http://www.kaveyeats.com/2014/10/ima...ket-kyoto.html
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Old Feb 10th, 2016, 11:02 PM
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FromDC, I have no tips for you but I'm planning a similar trip in May and this has been really helpful! We arrive into Tokyo on the 5th of May, just a few days before you.
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 12:29 PM
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Craig, I think you mean the machiya? Kim is helping me with lots of accommodations but she said that the limited seating would not work for us. We'd love to do a geisha performance if we can find others to join us - - I think too pricey for only two of us.
Russ, thanks, Sanjūsangen-dō is now on the list. I visited the Golden Pavillion almost 40 years ago, won't go back again.
BB: you know my itinerary, if we overlap anywhere, let me know if you want to meet up or if you find out about any special activities. If you read my TR from 2014, you'll see a few things we loved in Tokyo - - maybe you can catch a baseball game!
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 02:01 PM
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have fun
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 04:16 PM
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With so much great information, maybe you missed my reference above to the geisha performance that you apparently will be able to see on this trip, the Kamogawa Odori?
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 04:17 PM
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Thanks, Bob, been following your Panama TR, we've been thinking about a quick trip there to go across the canal (there is a nonstop flight from St Maarten) but now I'm not so sure.
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 05:41 PM
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We were posting at the same time, FromDC!
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Old Feb 12th, 2016, 02:00 AM
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Kja, yes, sorry, I have already been in touch with my hotel about the performance and they will be getting tickets as soon as they are available (based on your post to my original thread). Thank you!
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