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Island Peak Expedition Guides?

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My son and I hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Whitney which are nontechnical climbs. We would like to hike Island Peak and have narrowed our guides down to Mountain Monarch and Nepal Environmental Treks and Expeditions - both are local groups. I did find some that seemed fantastic but were out of the country and much more $$$. I was told that they end up hiring local groups anyway.

Does anyone have any opinions or thoughts about either of these two expedition groups? Also they claim they will train us in arrest and rope training as Island Peak does have some technical steep climbing towards the top. Any ideas, opinions, training ideas would be welcomed.

Thanks,

Roma

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    Island Peak is a large step up from both Whitney and Kilimanjaro. It's more technical and it will be a lot colder at night.

    I'm not familiar with either of those agencies, but going with a local agency will save you lots of $$$. True the out of country agencies use local ones, but they tend to make sure they are good quality, so you get a somewhat higher chance of a successful trip. But nothing wrong with going directly local if they have a good track record.

    I would make sure that their proposed schedule includes sufficient acclimatization. If they are trying to put you on the summit in anything less than about 10-11 days from Lukla then something is wrong. I saw someone dying from pulmonary edema being evac'd off Island Peak on one of my trips to the region. They had tried to summit in about 5 days.

    If you live where you can get basic training in using an ice axe, crampons and rope work before the trip then that would be useful.

    Good luck and have a great trip, it's a stunning part of the world.

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