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My husband and I are dedicated travellers who made up a life list of places we wanted to visit. In the 13 years we have known each other , we have been able to cross many places off our list. For me, the Taj Mahal was near the top. It is one place that lives up to it's hype. There are more many more beautiful sights to be seen in India...and some grim ones, too.
When I reflect upon our travels in India, what first comes to mind is a lot of "C" words; contrasts, contradictions, chaos, confusion, castes, curry, cremations, cows, and colors. As it happens, my husband and I arrived in the midst of a 5-day holiday celebration called Holi, a holiday of colors. We were never able to exactly determine its significance, but it dates back to ancient times. It is characterized by the practice of painting oneself and as many others you can manage with vivid powdery dyes mixed with water and delivered by water guns or balloons. Anyone can become a target. Parties, drinking, reveling, and dancing in the streets abound, the result being similar to our Halloween and New Year’s Eve celebrations rolled into one. Even the (holy) cows get spray-painted, along with many of the other animals one sees walking around quite freely on the city streets dodging in and around traffic. Besides cows, I observed goats, camels, elephants, monkeys, water buffalo, bulls, and dogs. No cats, though. Not even one.
Speaking of traffic, Indians do not appear to be hampered by rules of the road. While their cars’ steering is on the right in the English style, they drive not only on the left, as would be the norm, but on the right, in the middle, and across lanes with no regard for right of way. It is a total free for all. I witnessed many close calls during our time there, and one evening I had the misfortune of seeing a dead man from our bus window. He was lying in the middle of the street, his blood pooling around him, while the ambulance driver and another witness stood over him, staring matter-of-factly, as they would at a cow.
Most street scenes we witnessed were not quite as ghastly, but were very instructive concerning customs and culture: Sari-clad women wearing bright colors, browsing the markets or squatting in groups to gossip, creating a colorful contrast against the dust and grit of the streets and roads. Tuk-tuks, tongas, and cyclo-rickshaws lining the roadsides waiting to pick up passengers, the drivers often lying sprawled asleep in the seats. Cows clogging streets and sidewalks, grazing on grass or garbage, their foul odors blending with the stench of stale urine and teeming humanity…a nose-offending, gut-jolting stew. In shop-fronts, live chickens in cages, about to be turned into someone’s dinner, and butchered meat hung out in the sun and dust of the road, a meal for flies.
Here is India, a country of about 1.1 billion people, rich in natural resources, (including coal, iron ore, manganese petroleum, diamonds, bauxite, titanium, limestone, and natural gas), and poised to become a world economic force. Yet roughly 25% of the population lives below the poverty line, many of these in unbelievable filth and squalor, lacking even the most basic concepts of hygiene and sanitation. There is a whole tribe in the North, dedicated to begging. Their legions and imitators can be found at every tourist stop with palms extended, competing with the dozens of vendors hawking everything from bangles to books. If you dare stop to look, they will surround you, follow you, and cling to you like barnacles to a whale.
On the other end of the economic scale are the rich and the Royals. It is the world of Tata, one of the wealthiest men in India and probably the world, owner of 77 hotels including the Pierre in NYC. His name appears on dozens of products from cars to bottled water. It is the tradition of Maharajahs and Moghuls, their harems, and their elaborate palaces and tombs. They no longer keep harems, of course, and many have opened their palaces to tourists as a means of supporting themselves, as they are no longer receiving government support. Other palaces have been turned into hotels. They stand as monuments to the rich past when India was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. We stayed at several, part of the Taj chain, now owned or leased from the government by Tata. The most memorable was the Taj Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur. It was also the main setting for the James Bond film, Octopussy. A white marble structure, it was built 250 years ago by a Maharajah in the middle of Lake Pichola so there is a water view from every window. As our party entered the front doors we were showered with rose petals falling from the roof, as though we were royalty ourselves. Gorgeous flowers adorned every table and the scent of attar of rose was everywhere. Each room was a jewel box of elegance and romance.
The most famous tomb of all in India, is, of course the Taj Mahal (pronounced Ma-hell by the natives). It has been my life-long dream to see it and it did not disappoint. We arrived there before sunrise to capture the special light of dawn. As we walked through the entrance gate, it appeared in the distance like a pearly mirage afloat in the morning mist. It is an incredibly beautiful sight, an architectural wonder, and a spiritual and almost mystical experience that literally brought me to tears. I am tearing up now, just remembering it. For this alone, it was worth the trip.
Our sunset boat ride on the Ganges River in Varanasi was a mystical experience of another kind, not as sublime as the Taj Mahal but just as affecting. The Indian consider the Ganges a holy river with special purifying properties. People flock there from all over the country to swim and bathe in it, wash their clothing in it, pray over it and immerse their dead in it before cremation. On the river banks (ghats) in Varanasi, scattered smoky crematory fires were visible everywhere, but were especially concentrated within the main cremation site where we were allowed to watch from our boats but not photograph, except from a distance. Other fires from torches lit up the night, the air heavy with the smells of incense and smoke, as we watched the aarti ceremony and listened to rows of monks chanting and praying from platforms rising above the river. Our boat, steered by two wiry oarsmen was one among a multitude. At some predetermined time each person in every boat was given a candle and flower float to place on the river surface. We watched, enchanted, as they floated down river, flickering like a thousand fireflies in the night. Later, as we climbed the steps leading back to the streets and our van, thinking our Ganges experience was over for the evening, we were forced aside to make way for a wrapped corpse being carried down to the riverbank for a ceremonial dip in the River before cremation. A return to the ghats at dawn was rewarded with new and different sights, scenes, and rituals taking place before us. With its swamis, mystics, monks, and nadus (holy men) mystical rites and ceremonies, I think I understand now why people come to India from all over the world seeking spiritual enlightenment.
We visited many more beautiful temples and palaces, some of which were UNESCO and World Heritage sights. These were interesting and give a fascinating glimpse into India’s history and cultural development. However, equally as interesting, were the everyday scenes we observed on the streets. Watching the daily commerce and social interplay of the people going about their business, revealed so much more about that country than piles of ancient stones or marble could, no matter how lovely.
Other highlights; we rode elephants up a steep ramp in Jaipur to visit the Amber Fort, a sprawling ancient fortress named for its color, walked through old markets and bazaars, gawked at the erotic carvings on the Khajuraho temples, ate dinner and had high tea with local families in their homes, were treated to both classic and folk forms of traditional dance, and journeyed to Agra by train. We also learned a great deal about contemporary Indian life from our charming young guide, Ajay, who often spoke of his wife and son, marriage customs, and family dynamics. Through all this I have gained the sense that India is a country that can really get under your skin; a place you can love, and yet abhor; be drawn to, and repelled by, respect , and disdain, all at the same time.
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India; A land of contrasts
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Hi Roberta,
Enjoyed your trip report (brought back many memories) and I agree with you 100%. When people ask for my impression of India, I say "a cacophony of sight and sound."
I too went to see the Taj but in the end, I would say my most searing memory was the traffic. What chaos, yet with such rhythm. How else does one deal with cows, dogs, camels, elephants, motorcycles, rickshaws (auto and manual), cars, trucks, people, carts, etc. all on the same road. Absolutely amazing.
Again thanks for sharing.
Deb
beautifully written. Thank you for bringing me back to India for a few minutes.
Roberta,
Your description is so graphic. I really enjoyed it.
First and only post but nice writing, I guess - any credit to those on Fodor's that gave you recommendations? Were you on a tour or did you plan this out yourself? Where did you stay? If you post back, that will prove your legitimacy - I am skeptical that you are actually for real.
great reporting...keep it coming
>>>First and only post but nice writing, I guess - any credit to those on Fodor's that gave you recommendations? Were you on a tour or did you plan this out yourself? Where did you stay? If you post back, that will prove your legitimacy - I am skeptical that you are actually for real<<<
(yo, lighten up lil' craigster, dude. Rumour has it, you're still toiling away for a certain little brokerage house, have never climbed a 7000/8000/ metre peak, and most distressingly, have never quite been able to pull off S@ R/F long-hauls for your yearly Asia tourist visits with a bunch of other caucasian couples.
Now, warm fodor's welcome, roberta!. We're not exactly talking SQTALK.com on this site, but 'we' try.
Keep up the good work, sweet late morning business/travel greetings from Hong Kong (much more to follow) and do kindly consider SQ -- thank you.
macintosh (robert)
... Singapore Girl, You're a Great Way to Way ...
I always enjoy it when AskO pops in. This post is even more curious than usual. Questions.
What does 'never quite been able to pull off S@ R/F long-hauls' mean? Is it an insult?
If it's any consolation, Craig, Dogster has never even wanted to climb a 7,000 metre peak. Quite what that has to do with the price of bananas eludes me. Just take the higher moral ground. lol lol lol
More to the point - I've just learnt how to do italics.
Lovely report, but different from others' in that there are no facts and figures about transportation, housing, mechanics of the trip. Is that important? Probably not . . .
Dogster: How do you do _italics_? Youth wants to know . . .
Dogster--I hope your forays into poetry, photography, and wonderfully expressive italics don't delay the story that you promised would "very soon ... appear in these hallowed pages."
IP: look here:
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/bold-italics----other-tips.cfm
lol Marija - I need my new found skills in order to post the next piece. But it's way too long.
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/formatting-your-posts-with-html-tags-bold-italics-underline-colors-and-special-characters.cfm
blue heh. Love it.
pink
orange
Dogster, please drown us in words. Save the cuts for the movie. But please, stick with classic black, some italics are OK, do stay away from smileys...
O.K. I'll try and be restrained.
Marija and Dogster: Thanks!, Thanks!</>, Thanks!</>
Well, almost there, but no smiley faces or clowns. I hate clowns.
Craig, what do you mean
'If you post back, that will prove your legitimacy - I am skeptical that you are actually for real'
??
Debbe - Maybe I'm way off base here. I was wondering out loud why someone would do a one-time post that while eloquently written, reads more like a travel magazine article than anything I've seen on this forum before. The fact that the OP has never posted before made me suspicious, that's all. Looking back at my post now - it does come off as rather mean-spirited - my apologies to anyone that was offended.
Dogster - I also have no clue what AskO is trying to say (but it wouldn't be the first time for that). I notice that this whole thread went down hill from there...
"Downhill"?? No way, Craig. I learned (sorta) how to do italics and other dandy stuff.
After reading Craig's post, I did begin to wonder about authenticity--some of the concerns could be right.
To those who have enjoyed my report (I guess "essay" would better describe it) I say thanks for the compliments. For those who queston it's legitimacy, I assure you I am for real. I just enjoy writing and this is not the first time I written a journal after travel. I just never posted one before. Many friends have urged me to do so and I thought it would be interesting to give it a try. It was not meant as a day by day account of every single thing we did, ate, saw, etc., but as a summing up of impressions, feelings, and facts about the country. I don't expect that everyone is going to like what I wrote, or necessarily agree with it, but those who don't have the perogative to move on to another post!
Thanks for coming back and posting, Roberta. Can you tell us just a bit about the logistics? DId you travel independently or as part of a group? How long were you in India? Which cities did you visit?
Thanks.
Well I still liked it. as I said, brought me back, but as Craig mentioned it would be nice to know if you got any ideas or info from this site If you could let us know...thanks.
What would be the purpose of roberta_hurley8's posting this report if not to share the experience? She's not pimping anything.
Roberta, thanks for posting back. It's good to hear that you are actually a real person. It's not a matter of liking or disliking your report. It's that Fodor's is a community - many of us, who responded to your post have actually met in person at one time or another. This is not to say that "newbies" aren't welcome - just the opposite in fact. We just want to know more about you and how you travel - the give and take is all part of what this forum is about, as well as the support provided to each other. Check out this thread and you'll see what I mean:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/gpanda-needs-cheer.cfm
Love your writing style. Elegant and informative.
Besides cows, I observed goats, camels, elephants, monkeys, water buffalo, bulls, and dogs. No cats, though. Not even one.
I chuckled when I read this line as I had the same thought when I traveled to India in 2006. There are indeed, no cats. http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/trip-report-21-days-in-india-dec-16th-to-jan-7th.cfm
Here's my quote: Random thought: There are no cats in India. Seriously, never saw a cat anywhere. Dogs are ubiquitous as are goats, pigs and cows, but no cats.
I did have a Muslim guide in Agra who I mentioned this to. He said he daughter had a house cat that she dressed and fed and preened. I said "Oh, then you have a spoiled cat" to which he asked "what is "spoiled?" Spoiled is not an easy word to explain in a couple seconds, but I did describe it and he said "yes, my daughter has a spoiled cat and I have a spoiled daugher " : )
My guess is that there are a lot of hungry animals in India, and street cats are at the bottom of that food chain.
There are only spoiled house cats.
Thanks for your post, Roberta; I really enjoyed it. I liked the fact that it was, indeed, your impressions -- it often takes awhile to absorb what you have seen and distill that into a kind of essence of your experience. There's nothing wrong with posting which route/guide/hotel (even which room?) one uses; it may help those who travel independently. (But deliver me from those who insist that is always the ONLY way to travel.) I liked the fact that your posting wasn't cluttered with those little details.
I did see two cats in India: one in an alley in Amritsar and one somewhere in Jaipur. Lotsa dogs, though. Perhaps they eat cats!
I had no idea that my posting would launch me into a Fodor's "community." I merely wished to share some of my thoughts with the world at large and be done with it. It has been my experience that what one person likes, another might be totally unimpressed with, so I don't see the point of telling anyone about a "great" restaurant,hotel, place to shop, etc. As for me, I have very specific tastes, so unless I'm getting advice from someone who knows me well and whose tastes are similar to mine, I tend to be skeptical. I have been using Fodor's guides for years, however, and have found that their recommendations are almost always accurate.
I have never looked at this Forum before posting, so no, I did not follow the recommendations of anything posted here. My usual style of trip planning is to research the chosen destination very well (using Fodor's and other websites), reading up on it and then planning an itinerary of places I most want to see. My husband and I do not generally do organized tours, but decided in this case,it would be the best way for us to cover a large amount of territory in 2 weeks, and travel safely with a minimum of stress and frustration. Given that our ages are 68 and 73, it was a wise choice. The cities we visited were Delhi, Varanasi, Agra, Khajuraho,Orchha,Jaipur & Udaipur.
Last year we spent a month travelling around Sourth East Asia on our own but arranged to have guides meet us in every city to take us to the places we most wanted to visit. We have done this type of travel in S. America also, and find it works well for us. Mostly we prefer to travel on our own. I have become quite adept at putting together complex itineraries and arranging the travel from place to place especially when we have a month or more. This works best when there is a fairly strong infrastructure in place, although 2 years ago we did this in Mexico, covering at least a dozen cities and noteworthy towns very thoroughly. It was a fabulous, memorable trip! I have journals from that trip also, but sent only to family and friends.
Roberta:
It is nice when a trip report includes details and impressions of hotels, restaurants, etc so that the readers (such as myself) can reap the benefits of your experience.
Of course we all have different taste, but if you mention that you stayed in a specific hotel (eg the Lake Palace) and loved it, I will have some point of reference if you also love an unfamiliar hotel in another city that I might be considering. similarly, knowing you were part of a group tour also helps us in understanding how you were able to cover seven cities in two weeks or why you may have gone with a particular itiinerary.
Thanks for posting!
Hi Roberta,
Gee, didn't know this online community was such an exclusive club where the members all knew each other. Had I known your initial reception here would be marred by the rudness and immaturity of members such as Craig, I would never have referred you here but rather supported your first inclination to post it elsewhere. No manners. Lectures. How embarrasing. Please forgive me.
~F
Chess, your characterizations of me and this forum are unfair. I am not sure why you referred Roberta here as you have had absolutely no experience with it - other than submitting an opinion on some place in the Catskills to the non-cyber version of Fodor's. Not sure if she put you up to this, but I'm guessing not - she has shown a lot of class in her posts and has explained herself. I am not sure that you are living up to the same standard.
Your comment, "Gee, didn't know this online community was such an exclusive club where the members all knew each other."
My comment to Roberta which you obviously missed, explains that your perception is just plain wrong:
"This is not to say that "newbies" aren't welcome - just the opposite in fact. We just want to know more about you and how you travel - the give and take is all part of what this forum is about, as well as the support provided to each other."
I would assume that if you really wanted to solicit Roberta's forgiveness, you would have addressed her directly and not on a public forum. Don't know what your issues really are, but as far as I'm concerned your post is uncalled for.
Roberta you are a beautiful writer. I do hope you will continue to post on Fodors and give us the details we all crave! THanks.
Every forum has its own character; this forum clearly has a close-knit group of independent travelers who share ideas and have even taken pains to meet up with each other. That's fine. But there are others -- no doubt more than you'll ever know about -- who come and go, enjoy reading, and take away ideas. Maybe they never even post -- but they still benefit from the forum's existence. What caught my attention (in a negative way) was the assumption that a first-time poster to this forum somehow had to prove their legitimacy. Roberta clearly was not selling anything, pushing any agenda, etc -- why the assumption that she was up to no good? Because she hadn't asked anyone's advice? I think she was a good sport to respond when called to task for simply sharing her impressions of a trip she clearly enjoyed.
I think we're misunderstanding Craig's initial post.
One of the things that regulars in here do notice is the increasing sophistication of travel agents, particularly in India and parts of S.E. Asia. They have moved spam into a new zone, writing detailed reports from non-existent travels, praising their services. Most of these posts give themselves away pretty quickly but some hover in space, in a zone of uncertainty - are they real? Are they spam? After a while, forum-dwellers begin to develop a sixth sense.
These spam-meisters are always first-time posters. They have a tendency to write in flowing phrases, listing the wonders of India [and XYZ tours], glossing over the difficulties, ticking off a grab-bag of experiences with little hard-core fact.
The OP's initial report reads like a well-written speech, delivered to a bunch of eager friends who don't know a lot about India and don't frankly care where the OP stayed or ate. Nothing wrong with that - good writing, but the very absence of detail may have raised a red flag. Her writing style is unusually fluid, a little distant but carefully thought through in a way that stands out. It does read like a P.R. person got to the report. Sorry, but it does. Nothing wrong with that, the OP is lucky to have those literary skills.
Craig jumped to conclusions. He apologised.
There is a lot of spam in here. There are a few people with some issues who like attention. Craig was simply articulating those concerns and went out on a limb. Now he's getting a smack. It's not about first-time posters being welcome or not, it's not about having to prove legitimacy on entering the hallowed halls of Fodor's - who was it said they didn't want to be a member of any club that would have him as a member?
Craig's comment was simply a reference to the fact that spam, in whatever form, inevitably comes from first time contributors.
The OP is quite correct to maintain a vice-regal distance from the suburban goings-on in the Asia Forum. She has given us her thoughts, as has her spiritual advisor, Mr. Chess. This was never intended to be a vulgar dialogue - it was always intended as a speech.
Craig's little interruption has made it even more interesting, I think.
Hi Roberta, I have made four trips to India and can confirm that I have seen some cats -- not many and always dusk or dark. They are pretty secretive -- probably too many hungry dogs on the streets.
Craig:
"I am not sure why you referred Roberta here as you have had absolutely no experience with it - other than submitting an opinion on some place in the Catskills to the non-cyber version of Fodor's."
Once again, your assumptions are incorrect and your snobbery is painfully on display. Obviously, this website is not the only travel blog on which to post. Perhaps I prefer to blog elsewhere... Roberta happens to fit Fodor's main demographic--target market, if you will--very well. My husband (a Fodor's travel editor) and I thought she'd find an appreciative audience here. For the most part, we were correct.
Chess - I do feel duty bound to mention that abuse always comes from first-time posters as well. Lurk, spray and disappear. Please tell me that this won't be you.
Chess: I'm relatively new on Fodor's, but have never found Craig to be "snobbish." I'm not part of the "in crowd," just someone who's found useful information from others who've traveled some of the roads I've hoped to travel. Lower your armor. It's not what you think.
dogster has said it best quite frankly....
craig is a good guy who adds a lot to this forum. he, like many of us, try to improve the forum by routing out spamm in all forms.... some times we are right and some times we are wrong...
JUST KNOW THAT WE WELCOME ALL TO THIS GROUP ENDEVOUR FOR THE ENRICHMENT OF THE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE...
As too often happens, this very lovely, beautifully written post has declined into a personal thread of judgments by a few.
No one OWNS the Fodors Forum. So , there's a group that knows each other personally .Big deal.
Indeed, some of the responses do sound snobbish, and proprietary eg "We want to know more about you" "Prove your legitimacy" Neither Roberta nor anyone else has to PROVE anything, or pass inspection, to me , you, or anyone else.
Perhaps Craig did not mean it like that, but since we aren't in the privileged "in" group who have met in person, we have only the WORDS to go by.
Roberta, post your impressions on Indiamike, a wonderful community where very few play the one-upmanship game, and where the mods are quick to comment and intervene when it becomes personal.
BTW, addressing someone with a"handle" by first name is just one more way of implying and showing (and bragging?) in a public forum that there is an "in" crowd .
What an interesting and well written report! Bookmarking to savor later.
Roberta - your post describes India wonderfully. India is a bundle of contradictions. There is plenty and there is poverty, existing side by side as if completely oblivious to each other's existence. The Taj Mahal is a marvel. I had seen photos of it all my life but when I saw it in person it was an unbelievable experience. Watching the beautiful, intricate carvings from up close made me realize that no picture can do full justice in capturing the true beauty of the Taj Mahal.
Once more into the fray. I am both bemused and appalled by the some of the comments that continue concerning my post. Why all the sniping? Why aren't comments limited to the subject matter of the posting instead of using this forum to one-up fellow participants? For those of us who are not part of this clack, it is akin to being forced to listen to a banal cell phone conversation on a crowded train.
My impression so far is that the Asia Forum site is not a friendly place, given all the self-appointed guardians of legitimacy, truth, and acceptable styles of prose. Fodor's is a free forum, which I interpret as meaning anyone can participate, in any form they wish, as long as it is not obscene or offensive to the sensibilities of others. It is very "noble" of some of you who feel they must prevent anyone who is not "legit" from posting,but it seems a bit self-serving to me. If, indeed, "forum dwellers begin to develop a sixth sense" about such posts, then why do they need watchdogs? We're all grown-ups here aren't we? Well, aren't we?
As experienced travellers, I think we all know enough to independently check out any recommendations, or referrals made here before accepting them as legit. And if we don't...well a lesson learned. As grown-ups, we are responsible for our own decisions.
I have a very thick skin, so was not offended by the issues of validity that were raised. However, I do agree with CaliNurse, Chess & skibumette that there is an aura of exclusivity and snobbery on this site. Apparently, good writing, unless it comes from one of the regulars, is immediately suspect. Please spare me anymore assaults on the character or legitimacy of other posters and myself. Limiting comments to content ismuch
Somehow I inadvertantly pressed the wrong button and was not able to finish the last line before my post got sent. The final line continues..."Limiting comments to content is much more productive and is, after all, what forums like these are supposed to be about.".
I've been away for 3 days at a conference with no time for internet and I see this debate is still continuing. Fodor's is what it is. Get over it and move on...
Roberta, I'm sure I'm not the only one here who cringed when reading Craig's responses to you and Chess. I have no idea why he donned his spam-bustin-suspenders when there was no possibility of spam since you weren't hawking products or services. I'm equally baffled by his ridiculous "we know one another" comment. Craig is but one of many people who frequent this forum. He certainly doesn't speak for anyone but himself. So many people complimented you on your essay, that's what this forum is all about. I hope you stick around and share your travel experiences with us.
What do you think about asking the editors to delete all the extraneous material from this thread and just leave your report and relevant comments?
I would actually support Marija's suggestion.
Now Marija, you seem like a bright person and should not be baffled by my comments. Nor should you still be scolding me for being a spam-buster since I have already apologized for that. YOU are part of the Fodors' community and we all know you somewhat - although my impression (only mine) is that you are someone with a bit more of an attitude than most.
My explanation here is just that - mine. If I feel that we have a community here, then I'm going to say that.
And don't forget, I DID compliment Roberta's essay - I thought it was eloquently written.
I'll have to admit that while I enjoyed reading the initial post, I too had my spam radar triggered. A lovely post, but only one single piece of "hard " info was the name of a guide.
I was just waiting for another new poster to say, "wow what a fantastic trip. How do I contact Ajay?"
Fodor's is a self regulated forum. Unlike tripadvisor orIndiamike, the editors do not edit unless a complaint is made. If we want to know, we have to ask the poster, which is what Craig (sorry, don't mean to be snobbish, but I don't know how to address him other than by his first name)did. Question asked, question answered, and Craig apologized for his suspicions.
I'll have to admit that while I enjoyed reading the initial post, I too had my spam radar triggered. A lovely post, but yhe one single piece of "hard " info was the name of a guide.
I was just waiting for another new poster to say, "wow what a fantastic trip. How do I contact Ajay?"
Marija you have a good idea there, but I think we're about out of steam with this and ready to move on. What's done, is done, as the saying goes. Maybe something to keep in mind for another post...or maybe we can all learn to "play nicely" together in the future.
So far,it's been an interesting experience. Not quite in the way I expected, but enlightening, nonetheless.
Here's a question before we drop the subject: Why is it that Robert McIntosh, aka "AskOksena," pimps flagrantly for Singapore Airlines as well as for masseuses and other sex trade workers in Bangkok, yet no one complains about him??
Indiana, There is an exceptionally long and convoluted and hysterical story about the origins of AO. Robert McIntosh is a fictional character. Treat all of his posts as tongue in cheek. I'm sure some regular here is periodically posting as AO. I'd love to know who it is.
Aha! Got me!
Kathie: Rumor has it that AskOksena is a real person, not a nom de plume. There's something amiss with the Fodor's website at the moment, but I'll get back to this again later.
Roberta - thanks for your report - it brought back a flood of memories from my trip last year - The "C' words are so true - thanks