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India 1st Time Itinerary Revised - HELP!

India 1st Time Itinerary Revised - HELP!

Old May 20th, 2016, 04:41 AM
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India 1st Time Itinerary Revised - HELP!

Thanks to all who weighed in...here's a revised itinerary for March 2017. Thoughts? I realize it covers a lot of ground, but everything looks so amazing! Could obviously cut Jodhpur to save the time there, but the blue city looks pretty neat. Advice? Thanks!

Here are my current thoughts...please weigh in:

Delhi - 2 nights

train to Jaipur

Jaipur 3 nights

drive 3 hrs to Sher Bagh 1 night safari

Drive (this is the one long drive) 7.5 hours to Jodhpur - 2 nights

drive 1.5 hours to Mihir Garh (might cut this due to cost) - 1 night

Drive 2 hrs to Rawla Narlai - 1 night

Drive 2.5 hours to Udaipur - 3 nights

Fly back to Delhi and back to US
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Old May 20th, 2016, 06:17 AM
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I did not weigh in before but I notice you are staying at Sher Bagh at Ranthambore, which we loved during our first trip to India several years ago. If you leave at 9 am from Jaipur, you should arrive at Sher Bagh in time for lunch and the afternoon game drive. Hopefully you will do the early morning game drive the next day which is followed by breakfast. Game drives last 4 hours or more, so be prepared for a very long day with your drive to Jodhpur. You might consider revising this part of your itinerary.
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Old May 20th, 2016, 06:23 AM
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That's a good point, Craig. And the two back-to-back one nighters stand out for me as something you might want to revise. Perhaps cut Mihir Garh (as it appears you are already inclined to do) and add a night at Sher Bagh.

I think the changes you've made so far have improved your itinerary.
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Old May 20th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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No Agra?
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Old May 20th, 2016, 12:30 PM
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As you know from your previous posting, and as VP Singh put it so well there too, I agree with rhkkmk's query. I'd cut a night from jaipur (IF that's the only place you can do it) and have night in Agra. You really should see the Taj AND the fort (you can skip the Red Fort in Delhi then). You have to be at Taj FIRST THING in a.m.--thus, stay previous night--before crowds come--and even though it is "off" season, come they will. (How best to spend time in crazy Agra is a whole other topic.) There are some gorgeous hotels, AND well-rated homestays, in Agra.

Your son loves photography. VP Singh is right--THIS is the place his friends will ask about. Do see this iconic place, despite the crowds, haze, hassle, and large numbers of tourists. If you've not already done so, watch "The Namesake"--a prerequisite to any trip to India--and watch the son's (who was 17!) reaction ,and the gorgeous scenes of the exterior and interior of the Taj.

There's a new "bullet train" from New Delhi Nizamuddinn to Agra that makes it i n only 100 minutes. Even the regular Shatabtil gets you there in less than three hours.The new fast train is booked up already for the next 6 months, so IF you consider this, be aware of that.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 08:11 AM
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Ok - another revision based on advice, rerouting so visiting Jodhpur last!

March 10th, 11th Delhi (if flights get me in at 1am on 10th, should I come a day earlier? Not sure yet if flying via London or via Dubai - London arrives 1am, Dubai late morning)

March 12, 13, 14 Jaipur (is Samode Haveli worth it? Jas Villas? Jaipur Friendly Villas? those are the three that appeal)

March 15h leave EARLY for Sher Bagh to do afternoon drive, 1 night at Sher Bagh

March 16th (morning safari at Sher Bagh), drive to Shahpura Bagh (reviews sound really good - do you have thoughts?)

March 17th,18th, 19th Udaipur - 19th is a Sunday - is everything closed? Does it matter? (Jagat Niwas ok?)

March 20th Rawla Narlai

March 21st, 22nd Jodhpur (2 nights better than one, yes?)

March 23rd fly to Delhi from Jodhpur.- have to check flight times for return

I think I can take an afternoon flight from Jodhpur to Delhi, then I'll have to hang around Delhi FOREVER to get 3.40am flight back through London to Boston. Alternately, could spend another night in Delhi and fly out at 11.05am?? Thoughts??
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Old May 21st, 2016, 09:15 AM
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This will work much better if you settle for Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Agra and forget the safari (most reports on Indian safaris that I have read have expressed disappointment, not enthusiasm). It would work even better if you dropped one of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur. You do not want long drives and one nighters in India, it is too intense and travel is too difficult.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 09:27 AM
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1) We had lunch in the courtyard at Samode Haveli in 2009 - loved it! It's a beautiful heritage hotel. We would have stayed there last year, but were guests of a friend, so stayed at the Marriott near the airport.

2) Shapura Bagh is a lovely property. Maya and Sat run a tight ship. Read my report.

3) Jagat Niwas is a fine place to stay. There are no elevators, but the staff will schlep your bags. The rooftop restaurant is enjoyable both at night and during the day. There's another restaurant the next floor down with panoramic views of the lake. Check to make sure there's water in the lake. Fodorites reassured me a couple of weeks before our departure that the lakes were full.

4) The Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur is the best fort in Rajasthan. Also try to visit Ossian, a little town right outside Jodhpur, that has several interesting temples.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 02:47 PM
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I agree with thursday's assessment, who is always quite analytical and forthright. I want to elaborate on her comments about logistical difficulties within India.

All of India is in a state of chaos and disrepair. There are cows in the middle of the roads, and while it may seem amusing, a driver must stop and wait until the cow decides to move. The driver may tap his horn, but the cow moves whenever if feels like it. Also, there are potholes and cracks on the roads--we drove back from a wedding one night, and the two hour drive took several hours because of the potholes. I felt like I was on a boat. It is unfair and unsafe to expect a driver to take you on long drives without a chance to rest.

I also agree with thursdays about the safaris. We considered going on one as well, and I did a statistical analysis of the chance of seeing any animals, and it was extremely low. You can see plenty of cows and monkeys all over India, and for the tigers, go to Africa.

My son is also an avid photographer, and he liked Agra and Varanasi the best. In fact, while we were at the Taj, and our guide was resting, we hired a man to show my son various angles for the best photographs. Varanasi is one big costume party, and the pictures turned out amazing.

What would I do with 12 nights? I would do:
Delhi (4 nights)
Agra (2 nights)
Jaipur (3 nights)
Udaipur or Varanasi (3 nights)
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Old May 21st, 2016, 03:07 PM
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What CaliforniaLady said, except that I would add that you really do not want to be on the roads at night. There is no guarantee that the traffic sharing the road with you (random animals, pedestrians, bikes, camel or buffalo drawn carts, cars, buses and very large trucks) will have lights.

There is also no guarantee that the road will be even two lanes wide, or, if it is wider than that, that any of the drivers will follow any lane discipline whatsoever.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 04:27 PM
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BW, most responses suggest going to Agra. Is there a reason you aren't including it? The Taj Mahal just takes your breath away, it's so beautiful. But you must go in the morning before the crowds.

Perhaps you've read my TR from last year-Jaipur didn't appeal to me so much, but if you are a shopper you might want the time there. One of my regrets is that we only had one night in Shapura Bagh, it is really lovely and relaxing. But one night only is better than none and it breaks up the trip between Jaipur and Udaipur. And if your intent is to see a tiger by going to Sher Bagh, skip it because of your limited amount of time. Those safaris are real disappointments and your chances of seeing a tiger are low.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 04:48 PM
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The thing about the Taj is that you think you know what it looks like, but you really don't. Plus you need to see it at dusk as well as dawn, it changes color.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 05:15 PM
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I would definitely skip Ranthambore for the Taj. 3 nights in Udaipur would be great as well and Jagat Niwas is well situated. We had dinner there. Do not be on the roads at night.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 07:12 PM
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Thursdays, you are right on again. The entire Taj is inlaid with jewels, and the pictures make it look plain white. We went at sunset and sunrise, and I wish I could have gone back a third time, after I had a chance to digest what I saw. It is truly the most beautiful building I have ever seen.

In response to FromDC's comment about stopping at Shapura Bagh to break up the journey between Jaipur and Udaipur, an alternative is to fly between Jaipur and Udaipur, which is what we did. I booked all three of our Jet Airways flights via toll-free telephone, and when the prices dropped, they refunded the difference to me.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:14 PM
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BW, since your first enquiry ,I and then travel planner VP Singh (of Legends and Palaces) suggested the Taj Mahal. In both your original, and now this thread, other people with great India experience mention it, and ask what in particular makes you hesitate. You may have a perfectly good reason, but please ...let us know what it is. Maybe you have misconceptions, or don't know the ins and outs (haha) of best times to visit. IF you are so close, and with your son who loves photography, why wouldnt you go?--the logistics aren't difficult. See what CaliLady said about her own son's experience?
Yes, it is busy; yes Agra town itself is, like many Northern India cities, crazy chaotic and polluted; yes it is "touristy." So is the Eiffel Tower and my local icon, the Golden Gate Bridge. To make it even more a local comparison...It's kinda like someone on a first trip to California, going to the Napa Wine Valley but giving San Francisco a miss.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:23 PM
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said it before and will say it again: imho you can lose night from your three at Jaipur. At it to somewhere else, or Agra. Glad I saw it, bu didn't love Jaipur and my favorite parts were areas away from the most well-known places there. Please, do not miss the Monkey Temple, aka GaltaJi , entering from the top after driving up the hill through a small village.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 01:12 PM
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Ok...I went to India 20 years ago and to the Taj. Figuring this is an intro trip for my son and he will likely return...so skipping it for that reason.

People seem to love Sher Bagh, so I'm curious about those of you suggesting we leave it out...it's pricey, so it's tempting to skip, but the idea of glamour camping sounds fun and I know my son is keen. IF we did leave it out, would you add a night to Delhi?? Or to Udaipur (which for some reason sounds so great I'm tempted...)? Son is also a big shopper, so need to factor that in.

Also, RAAS totally booked in Jodhpur so now thinking Ratan Villas.

Anyone have experience with Jaipur Friendly Villas? Owner sounds lovely (and their Holi celebration really relaxed and small).
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 01:58 PM
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Why do you want to go to Sher Bagh? Because it's a luxury camp, or because you want to see tigers? It seems pretty good at the former, but can't guarantee the latter.

I am not particularly a fan of Delhi, so would not add a night there, but you may need to to be sure of making your return flight.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 03:09 PM
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Never been to India, though I love reading threads on the country as I would like to go one day. Been to 12 countries in Africa, many of them multiple times. There are no tigers in Africa as mentioned in one of the threads. There are several cat varieties, but there has never been tigers in Africa. Do not know your chance of tiger sightings in India, but you will definitely never see one in Africa! Good luck with your trip. There are some real experts waying in. Following along to see what you finally decide.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 06:18 PM
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You have more than enough worthy places on your itinerary, but I will weigh in here anyway with an entirely different focus: It is fabulous to visit Kerala and Tamilnadu in the south. There are many temple towns along the route from Chennai to Madurai, and you can stop in Pichavary for a beautiful boat trip through the mangrove backwaters to the coast of the Indian Ocean. From Madurai, head inland through the mountains to Kodaikanal, then Ooty (by narrow-gauge railroad), then Mudumalai Wildlife Refuge where you are more likely to see animals than in most places in India. Then on to Mysore. If you can make it to Kerala, it's a wonderful town on an old spice route. Much more to say about this area! I know it's not in your plans, but I'm just saying...
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