Hi.. I kinda felt that way before the first time we went to India..But even after all of the filth and chaos, fell in love with India, and now am going back for the 3rd time next month!!

You will see when you get there..but things happen there, that you just don't see anywhere else..And one minute you may find it disgusting and the next might have been the greatest experience of your life..

Anyhow, just go with an open mind and enjoy and i bet you when you get home, you will be planning another trip back!! That's my 2 cents!!

i too am about to embark on a similar trip....in over 20 years of trip planning i have never experienced any of the problems i have on putting this trip together....i almost threw in the towel two weeks ago...

i have been in contact with 3 delhi agencies....each has been responsive, but they seem to lack in some follow through and consistency sometimes....i found compass to be the most thorough however...

hotels are exceedingly difficult to book....i think the agencies are trying to get the best price so as to build in their spread (profit)....

one agency told me he could not confirm a certain delhi hotel for me for some period of time (actually had one of my 3 days confirmed but we were 70th on the wait list for the other two days--70th!!!) and i was able to do it in 3 minutes on the telephone with a usa direct hotel group...

the poverty is what it is....i can deal with that and also the touts and the beggars....you just have to be tough, but also in a compassionate way....you can't let it get to you...
i don't think it will be far worse than what you may have seen elsewhere...bad, but not unbearable...

the benefits of travel in india will far outweigh the negetives....just keep that in your mind...at least this is how we are moving forward...

i never use agencies, but all the chatter, and now my experiences have forced me to use it this time....i think next time i will do it 100% on my own...

the problem is getting a good car and driver and the dealing with the crush at airports and public transportation facilities....buying tickets, etc on site....

everything seems so disorganized on the surface....better left to the professionals....and the professionals charge so little for their services---now at least...

move forward with it and enjoy...that is what we are plannin

India is intense - Asia on steroids - but that's why it's fascinating. With a private car and Oberoi hotels you're going to be somewhat insulated. I did two and a half months mostly trains, rickshaws, few hotel reservations, with one plane and a handful of cars arranged in India and was very ready to leave at the end - but I also knew I wanted to go back. Yes, there is dirt - more in the north. (Sometimes helps to have a poor sense of smell!) Yes, there are lots of aggressive beggars, some very young, some missing limbs. Make a decision beforehand to give to a charity instead. Yes, there is incredible poverty - be glad you're so lucky. In towns there is crazy traffic, crowds of people, and lots of noise (the countryside can be whisper-quiet). But India is still magical - I loved the diversity, the people, the scenery, the food, the fabrics... I so have to go back.

I agree with thurs especially since I have travelled in similar ways. I think people either love or hate travelling in India. I usually describe India as total sensory overload. Let me now tell you that I LOVE India. I vividly remember my first short 10 day trip I was so ready to leave but within weeks I was aching to return. I have since been back 4 times and I certainly hope to return again. As thurs says with drivers and good hotels you will have some respite. The chaos, colour, noise, smells and invaison of personal space is what makes India so facinating. I have done a lot of travelling in SEA, China, Africa, Europe and Sth America and India I feel is very different to those. As I said though I do love it and would definately return.
J

GO GO GO GO TO INDIA! Do not hesitate!

It is the toughest vacation I have ever loved. In all honesty, my recent trip to Africa became tougher because over the vehicle breakdowns.

India can be a challenge at time, but don't worry Mr. Private Car Oberoi Hotels (teasing you) you will be fine and will see things that will never again be equaled.

If you have done "Third World" (ahem... Developing Nation) trips before, then you will be fine.

Four years later I am still dazzled by my trip.
www.waynehazle.com/india/
"The Crucible: 12 Days In India"

By the way, I just went to the Oberoi Site, http://www.oberoihotels.com/, and the first picture that came up was a view of the Taj from a dining room in the Agra Oberoi.

That site ALONE will make up for virtually anything you could go through

I just returned from my first trip to India. I did the normal Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur with a stop in Ranthambore National Park). I have traveled somewhat extensively (40 countries) and have been to various 3rd world nations.

The Indian Tourist Authority calls India "Incredible India" and they chose a good adjective. I call India a cacophony of sight and sound. It is one of the most fascinating places I have ever visited. You will not be disappointed.

I stayed at Taj Hotels and they were lovely; the Oberoi are a step up so you will be fine.

That said, there is poverty. But even though you see individuals living on the streets, for the most part, they looked pretty good and seemed to have enough food (I saw many a family on the street but they were cooking rice, vegetables and bread). Beggars and touts are everywhere and often very aggressive; it is best to ignore them.

Of the three cities I visited, I only disliked Agra since it was polluted and had an extreme overabundance of beggars and touts. But the Taj Mahal is so incredible that you put aside your issues with Agra to see it.

Go Go Go!!! This will not be my only visit to India.

and WHEN you go and you are in Agra, don't just see the Taj and then stay in your hotel. Go to the Agra Fort and to Fatehpur Sikri!

I was freaked out before my first trip, too. Like you, I read too much beforehand. On the plane ride over I kept thinking, "why am I doing this? Why am I doing this?" I ended up having the time of my life and returned two years later for more.

The key is to just go with the flow. Actually, don't just go with the flow -- embrace the flow. The craziness is part of what makes India so special. And definitely make an effort to strike up conversations with people. Indians are extremely friendly and open people.

IMHO the answer to your question depends on the limits of your tolerance for the unpleasantries you will experience. There will be crowds, poverty, mind boggling traffic, aggressive vendors, offensive odors and other hassles. There will also be beautiful hotels, sights such as the Taj, all the old forts, the history that can be seen no where else on earth. Delhi is a great city IMHO to tour. There are many attractions there. Don't miss the Lotus temple.
If you have been to ther 3rd world countries I think you will be fine. Just be careful about what you eat and drink. Don't worry, just go. BTW my wife is Indian and we've been there 5 times together, most recently about 1 yr. ago. The key question is what time of yr. do you plan to go. Forget the summer!! Its in the 90's now in Delhi BTW. Go in late Nov. thru early to mid Feb. for the best weather and do try to see some of southern India. Its a different world there. As they say, Namaste.

Thanks for all your comments! I had considered planning a trip to India last year and ended up getting freaked out and went to Thailand and Cambodia instead. That was a fantastic trip - the best I've ever had, but everytime I've seen something about India since then I've been feeling twinges of regret for not going. So, now seems like right time to take the plunge. We'll be going in late October, so I think the weather should be tolerable. Who knows, maybe India will end up preparing me for China - we plan to travel there in 2007!

kmbing - no, no, China is much easier traveling than India! In fact, if you stick to the big east coast cities, no worries at all. Thailand and Cambodia should be all the prep you need for China.

Hi Kmbing,

China is a piece of cake compared to India--not even close. However, after coming back from China I simply got back into my life, looked at my great photos and put the trip behind me. India is different. India seeps into your pores, and you can't stop thinking about it when you return. It is sort of the "trip that keeps on giving." You know, like a movie you didn't quite "get" when you were in the theater, but it stays with you for years. Also, the faces, colors, flowers, masses of people--it is a photographer's dream. Unlike China, nothing in India is "under control." Even taking pictures is like changing a tire on a moving car. It is hard to take a bad picture in India.

I got back from three weeks in India in January. I also stayed at Oberoi hotels with a private driver and flew between some cities (our driver drove and met us at the next city). At one point I laughed until my sides hurt because, between the hermetically sealed SUV, the hermetically sealed five star hotels, and our driver driving like a crazy person to catch up with us at the next destination, that we were "doing India as bubble boy."

The first few days in India are tough. The sensory overload is beyond anything you have ever experienced. Mix it with a little jet lag I got a bit cranky. Things like being approached by lepers, polio victims and tiny children isn't easy. Beggars are everywhere.

However, after that first couple of days, your coping mechanisms kick in and the remarkable beauty, charm, history, religion and friendliness of the people take center stage.

The most fun we had is when we extracated ourselves from the SUV, driver and guides and wandered about by ourselves.

Try to get to Varanasi. Just take my word for it, you will never visit any place in the world quite like Varanasi. It is magical and mystical and wonderful. Go.

"China is a piece of cake compared to India" is the biggest piece of misinformation I have ever seen.

But then maybe it depends how you travel. If you have a driver and it all worked out - no need to find somewhere to stay; no need to find out how to get from A to B - then maybe. I wouldn't know!!

Look - India is the easiest of places to travel around. You can go ANYWHERE YOU WANT if you have the desire.

There is always someone who speaks English. In China it is a lottery. You can go to the railway stn to buy a ticket and if you don't get lucky - like meet someone who speaks English, or haven't found a friend to write down your destination on a scrap of paper beforehand - then you are stuffed.

China was easily the most difficult place I have ever travelled around. Absolutely no contest.

Jeez - looking for somewhere to stay or somewhere to eat, you have no idea if you are entering a hotel, a restaurant, a hairdresser or a brothel. Unless, that is, you can read the script.

Same problem sort of in Greece, but it is possible to learn the Greek alphabet quite quickly. Chinese script is of a different order.

Don't be put off going to India. It is brilliant, brilliant. And as you won't be having to organise anything for yourselves - won't be having to piss in the public toilets, or wait in line for anything - hey, why worry!!

Have the most amazing time - you will!!

Let me clarify. When I was talking about India being harder than China, I meant emotionally, not the ability to get around and communicate. Obviously, in a country where everyone speaks english, it is easier to get around and ask directions (even if the directions leave a bit to be desired

BTW, if you read my post you will discover that I LOVED India. However, in MY opinion, I found it harder to emotionally get used to China, which is a far more controlled country.

Hmmm it is quiet strange to contribute to a post about India, being Indian, as for me the negatives mentioned are part of life. I now live in the UK and can see why the first time travellers would have a sensory overload. India is like Picaso's paintings, everything is there but not in the right place. In UK we do have disabled people but they are shielded, although the dignity provided to them unsurpassed. In India ''life'' is on display and all you see is all you get. It is a different kind of holiday and good to do it once at least, if only to see the difference in life if one is coming from the West. Have fun!

It is absolutely not true that "There is always someone who speaks English" in India! In high-end hotels, sure, but go off the beaten track and see how much English your rickshaw driver speaks! And even if he does speak some English, he may not understand your accent. I've traveled "on the ground" in both India and China, and what you need for both of them is a good guidebook. For China, one that has the place names in Chinese characters as well as English. And for China a good phrasebook, by which I mean that it has English and pinyin and characters. Problems with reading the script apply across SEA as well.

Geeez, OK, MANY people speak English in India, not ALL people speak English. My bad. However, English is an official language in India which it certainly is not in China.

Let's not get annoyed at each other here because we make a small, ( mistaken in other's judgement) comment. We all love India, we just see it through a different lens.

I am looking forward to going back to India for personal travel as I find it fascinating. I will only go back to China on business travel. That is how I feel. Others I am sure feel entirely differently.

BostonHarbor - sorry, no offense intended. I was replying more to fuzzylogic, who seemed to be traveling without a guidebook, and quoted from the wrong post. I have a vivid memory of being in Amritsar, early evening, and trying to convey to a non-English-speaking rickshaw driver that I wanted to go to the railway station. Choo-choo, it turns out, is not a universal language...

BostonHarbor has summed up the India-China contrast quite beautifully, in my opinion.

In response to waynehazle's comment "Go to the Agra Fort and to Fatehpur Sikri!"

I did and they are wonderful. Also don't miss Sikandra and Itmad-Ud-Daulah's Tomb (the baby Taj).

What I meant to say is my least favorite city (dirtiest and most aggressive touts) was Agra but the monuments definitely were worth seeing.

kmbing- To me, the hardest part was setting up my trips. You've done that.

I also got a bit freaked out before my first time- especially after reading all the scam warnings in the guide books, but I'd paid for two airfares before that hit, so I had to go.

Once we get there it was magical! Dirty, hot, and frustrating too, but aren't a lot of places??

I'll have to say that Craig and Jean's trip report gave me enough details to have the courage to do the first trip. Read that, Bosotn Harbor's, my two reports and all the others. No one got into any major trouble...at least those of us who made it back to write a report!

There's a reason so many of us love the country and can't wait to go back.
I hope you discover it as well.

Take a look at this page -

http://www.moxon.net/india/varanasi.html

There are links to his tales at other places in India. As an Indian, I find some of his observations quaint, sometimes even what I would term typical Western misunderstanding of certain Indian practices & habits. But he seems to have made an effort to be empathetic and he displays the right attitude while traveling within India.

it was an interesting articles. It seemed to change tone quite abruptly and get very saracastic and foul. It almost like the writers switched.

Man I keep hearign about all these dead bodies floating in Ganges and I never saw anything. The air smelled great. But no I didn't go for a swim or take a drink...

All travel is emotionally demanding -requiring flexibility and accomodation. But India is a destination where the hassles are out weighed by the rewards as exemplified by those who want to travel back after every trip.

The reasons people include warnings in their reports is that we live in a culture of "full disclosure" one wouldn't want to only discuss the rewards without being honest about the challenges.

In destinations such as India and other less developed areas you cannot insulate yourself entirely from poverty -even in an air conditioned car or a fabulous hotel- because poverty is in the streets and the infrastructure is in some places crumbling...hence you have the evident and inescapable contradictions between wealth and abject misery which you will not be able to escape on your holiday.

However we also have social contrasts in the West. They may not be as extreme but in addition they are not as evident because the economic development of the society narrows the differences and makes them less evident by building freeways through less "desirable neighborhoods" thus I don't have to be faced by extreme poverty in the same ways.

This is exactly why several people have said to me why would you want to travel to India or Mali? Because for them a vacation is a suspension of reality, time to lie on a beach and relax. Of course there's a place for this but whether we see poverty or not it's still there.

India isn't an entirely relaxing destination but it's so culturally rich, so fascinating and engaging.The history and art are so interesting. It's a place that's woorth reading about before and after your trip.

I understand you're concern I suppose the question is what are you looking for and what are you prepared for?

What made India slightly different for me was the sheer force of numbers...the throngs of people...the incessant noise and pollution. On one day in the center of Jaipur we didn't have the car and driver with us and we were mobbed by rickshaw drivers...it can be a a place were people just ignore no.

However, with this slight exception we had a great time. We had wonderful peaceful visits in the countryside, quiets walks, thrilling visits to temples and welcoming hospitality at many of the heritage hotels. The sense of connecting and talking to owners of the heritage hotels "situated" our experience of India and this combined with a week with friends in Delhi gave a contrasting view of the Indian middle and upper middle classes which was enlightening.

I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time.

Don't worry too much. I was terrified about arriving in Delhi by train at 4am and really got myself into a state. It was fine...we just walked up to the throng of taxi drivers outside the station and picked one randomly . Being decisive and not worrying about whether you've paid too much is probably the best advice I should have take!

I don't go on vacations to foreign lands to relax & rest. I want to go places and see things and I loved India. I was 60 years old & in fairly good shape last November when we went. I always read all of these warnings about various countries to which we have traveled, and things are never as bad as I imagined they might be. Being part of a tour group is a help in dealing with new surroundings, but we always venture out on our own and have interesting experiences that way.

While you're there, India has the ability to make you scream,cry,smile,want to tear your hair out and make you feel more at peace than you've ever been...all in one day if you're lucky! It's definitely intense but if you have an open mind I can pretty much promise you'll look back on it as one of the most amazing, eye-opening and maybe even life changing experiences of your life. I was just there last summer, all over the country, and if my best friend and I survived (2 small blonde girls fresh out of high school) then I would think anyone could!

Hey kmbing you will not experience the India that you are "freaked out by" by staying at the Oberoi. So don't worry. India is the best place in the world to visit if you have an open mind because there is alot of beauty, diversity and something for everyone there-jungle (Kerala), beautiful palaces & desert(Rajasthan), beaches (Goa) etc. There is no place in the world where you can see as many religions,cultures, languages in one country.

I will only be 100% honest with you so here goes! Sure you will have beggars asking you for money. Some of them will be small barefoot children or limbless and it will be impossible to say no to them. The differences in economic class are sharp so be ready for a surprise. A few times I saw beggars sleeping outside of large bungalows that belonged to wealthy people. In fact, I saw a topless beggar woman sleeping with a child in front of the Maharashtra state governor's house. I also saw a disabled man take off his pants and relieve himself in broad daylight on Juhu beach, in front of many people as if nothing.

A common sight were the dozens and dozens of people sleeping on the streets of Mumbai covered with blankets from head to toe. I have seen people literally sleeping in the street (not on the sidewalk) where cars pass, and I still am confused to this day as to why.

You will come back from India a changed person, believe me. Don't spend all of your time in a car with driver. Take chances and walk the streets. You will get dirty and you may want to burst into tears at times because crossing the street is like playing Russian Roulette. Also, at times you may pass mangy nasty looking dogs in the streets. Hey don't carry food, instead carry an umbrella in case one tries to get aggressive. That's what I did. I've heard some dogs are rabid but haven't heard attack stories-but never say never.

When you go up North, it will get trickier because it is more rural and there will be animals and their feces literally everywhere (pigs, monkeys, camels, cows etc.). However, it is so interesting to see how man and beast can coexist in perfect harmony. This is the thing I love about India.

The worst that may happen to you in India is that a few people will ask you for money or may try to scam you. Just say nothing and keep walking. The best that will happen is that your experience will make you take less things for granted, as we often do here, and it may move you to be more philanthropic.

Can I tell you something? I haven't heard of anyone I know being robbed while in India but I know 4 people that have been robbed while in Italy. India is not a dangerous place and violent crime rate is very low.

I'm of Indian background and I went in 2003 for the first time as an adult and though it is incredibly exhausting and annoying at times, I loved it. Most people who have been, loved it. The key is to be extremely open minded, patient and respectful of other customs and cultures. Poverty plays a huge role in India, especially when it comes to certain customs. You can't take offence to that or you will be miserable.

Just use common sense and you will be fine. Don't take jewellery or expensive gadgets with you or they will be stolen.

I'm not sure if you're planning taking a tour or going on your own, but you will be a target...locals can smell a foreigner from a mile a way. My dad was born and raised in India but hasn't lived there in 30 years, when he goes back they always know he's an 'outsider' - and they WILL take advantage but for us that extra few ruppees means nothing, to them it's food for a week.

India is definitely the most challenging place I've travelled to, but one of the most enjoyable ones, so go for it, don't let others' negative comments make you afraid, because you'll never experience things for yourself that way.

Just be prepared that it won't be easy, you will be mentally and physically taxed - do a lot of research but don't be held to a set schedule because it won't happen.

Alternatively, take a tour like Palace on Wheels...I've known a few Indians who have taken the tour and love it.

thursdaysd - may we know how long you have spent in India, and what guide book you used,

fuzzylogic - 11 weeks end of 2001. I cossed the border from Bhutan and did a big semi-circle that ended in Chennai. I started out using Lonely Planet, but around Bhopal I discovered they'd changed authors for that area & I wasn't in sync with the new one on hotels, so I bought Footprints in Mumbai. I still prefer LP for logistics, but Footprints had better info on the sites. My trip reports are at www.wilhelmswords.com.

Hye thursdaysd,

Juust went through your site.
Looking forward to your next trip making it up there.

Hi Wayne - cool, thanks, I was just reading your India report! Great trip, looking forward to reading the others on your site.

Been to both north and south india. The moral I have come back with is if going to India, either stay in 5 star hotels or cook your own food!! You're doing the former so should be OK.

Two problems you might encounter: Respiratory infections and GI infections so drink only bottled water, eat only hot foods, shy away from desserts and salads, and wash your hands a lot. Bring an antiobiotic which will work for both and of course, lomotil, etc.

It's a great place-like going to another planet in many ways but you'll love it. I'd say where you're going is about the best place to get your first experience.

I just -- as in two days ago - got back from a three and a half week trip that took me throughout the country.

Everything you have read is true -- there is poverty, and begging, absolute mind blowing traffic, pesky touts etc. And yet...everything else you have read is as true as well in terms of India being an experience you will never forget.

I'm not quite sure what to advise in terms of "what you will be getting yourself into" There will never be any "danger" to you. Just some annoyances and irritations.

Will you constantly be approached by people asking you for money? Oh yes. But you need (for your own sanity) to keep a pair of sunglasses firmly plantly on your head and ignore.

Will you be approached - especially at tourist attractions - by quite a number of hawkers? Oh yes. But no more so than when I went to other places like Siem Riep in Cambodia etc. (use your same sun glasses and ignore.

What your eyes will take in though will overwhelm you in terms of the phenomenal sights. (not to mention the sounds.)

I stayed at the Oberoi at the Taj - wonderful! Ask for a room with a balcony facing the Taj. Also check out Faitpur Sakri (as much of a highlight as the Taj)

In Jaipur stayed at wonderful place called Samode Havelli. Take a rickshaw ride during rush hour - incredible. (I would skip the elephant ride up to the fort and have your car take you instead.)

In Rajistan - also went to Jodpur, Jasilmer and Udapur. (Udapur stayed at the Oberoi's Udaivillas - great)

So don't get freaked. This will be an experience of a lifetime.

Joe


I

Well since the original poster posted this in February 2006, over a year ago, and doesn't seem to have come back, I think she probably is over her freaked out part....

Maybe she liked India so much she stayed there....

India is well india everyone should visit India at least once in their lives! Don't be afraid you will see everything from intense poverty to incredible wealth the experience is unbelievable! After travelling through India we now support and raise money for a childrens shelter in Panjim.

India can only be described as an "experience" I absolutely and totally adore it (we've been 5 times). It is one of the few countries that all your senses are pushed to the max - however I strongly believe that no matter how fantastic a place is or how wonderful people tell you it will be, if you get sick it will taint your memories. I have NEVER been sick in India, we have travelled by train from one side to the other, we have sat by the side of the Ganges, watching the hypnotic calls of the Brahmin priests in prayer, seen the sunset/sunrise over the Himalayas and traipsed for miles upon miles in filthy dusty markets, walked bare footed in the rat temple and a million other experiences. India gets under your skin, it is like no where else - I REALLY HOPE you have a great time, do everything, see everything and enjoy it - but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't touch the tap water, that means don't brush your teeth in it, that means don't put your face in it - including under the shower, no ice in drinks and absolutely no raw salads. I have followed these rules to the letter and in all our trips - both India and very remote parts of Africa - I have never ever been ill. If at all possible, it would be useful if you could try and read up about the history and Hindu religion - there are hundreds of gods but you will get a lot more out of the place if you can understand what it is all about.

Best wishes and have a fantastic trip!

You are very lucky or constitutionally gifted. I have always gotten sick there and we've been there 5 X's.

In 4 trips to India, i only got a little sick in Goa last month...(other than a sinus infection everytime i've been there)...But my husband got really ill for about a week in Goa..The other 3 times, he was healthy throughout..

The revival of this thread reminded me of the discussion about how many Indians speak English. I'm attending a seminar on India this weekend, and one of the readings is from "Nehru and the Language Politics of India" by Dr. Robert King, of the University of Wisconsin. He writes "English is thought to be spoken by two to three per cent of the Indian population." In numbers, that's an awful lot of people, and many of them may work in the tourist industry, but it's a very small percentage.

If you are doing a tour with drivers etc., and you have traveled before, you will be fine.

It is true what people say about the things that are "difficult" about India - there is poverty, slums, beggars, street people, and the hawkers are everywhere. But you know, after a day or two that sort of grows on you even! The sights, smells, and sounds are overwhelming. It is a culture shock, but to me in a good way. It is magical and enchanting and exotic. I have been twice (I am female, white, 40 years old, American). Last March I took my 15 year old daughter. We had hotel reservations, but no car and driver, no escorted tour. We took rickshaws and tuk-tuks everywhere and managed just fine. She was as enchanted as I was.

I wouldn't miss India for the world! It is absolutely my favorite place on earth. I guess it depends on what kind of traveler you are, because I hear people say either you love it or you hate it. I can't imagine hating it. BUT, I think if one is the kind of traveler that doesn't want to be bothered to see poverty or dirt in a place, and they get tired of the "dirty poor" places and just want to close their eyes and have their cushy life, they wouldn't like India.

If you like to really see different kinds of cultures and you can take it all in stride - the taxi drivers, the noise and chaos, the beggers etc. - then you will love it. It is so beautiful and the people are so incredibly warm and hospitable. It is amazing. Please take the opportunity and go.

I completely agree! It is also one of themost humbling places I have ever been. On one of our first trips there we went to Calcutta (as it was then - now Kolkutta) and spent most of a day in the places that Mother Teresa has spent time in, the original Mother House where she is buried, the hospital for the destitute and last but by no means least - the orphanage. That was an amazing day and I will never forget walking down amongst the cots with the little boys and girls holding out their arms to us to get our attention. It make you realise just how lucky we are to live where we do, where life isn't so much of a life and death struggle. Surprisingly people seem not to go to Colcutta, but I really loved it, particularly the Bengali people and the food was amongst the best.

yES, iNDIA HAS EVERYTHING THE GOOD AND THE BAD .......not always in that order though. It is strange ..... so much poverty but yet you feel much safer than in many western cities. The poor are not aggressive .... they work hard. The poor children dont harm you .....they play through the day with just things they find on the roads .... a stick becomes their cricket bat!!!! There are a number of touts .... but then it is the foreigners who seem to encourage them (or they wouldn't be there) Be street wise, don't talk to touts atall and enjoy the country!!!!!

Not much more to add that hasn't been said, but I made my first trip to India this February. A loonnnggg trip to get there,but I'd love to go back. I agree with jacketwatch that if you've been to third world countries, it won't be too difficult. If not....then more of a challenge. Renting a car and driving around Morocco seemed more challenging to me. But in India, we were with friends and a driver. Photos at www.pattyroth.com India photos are in the first gallery. It helped me a great deal to see others' photos when planning. By all means, go!!!

The last two posters apparently haven't noticed that the original post is from 1996. I expect the OP has made their decision by now.

Ha Ha! That is so funny--no I didn't notice.Just saw it come up high on the India list and saw February!

My sister and I went to Northern India several years ago and had a really good time. I did all the planning and we did not use a guided tour. We did, however, hire car transportation to get us from one city to the next. If I had to do it over again I would have hired a driver for the entire time we were in Delhi instead of using local taxis. While shopping and going to restaurants etc. time and time again we would ask a taxi driver or richshaw driver to bring us to a specific place and inevitably they would bring us to a place of their choosing. It was obviously a place where they would get a commission to bring in customers. They would then out right lie and tell us this was the place that we wanted. We wasted so much time in taxis and richshaws trying to get from one place to the next. We had no problem confronting these liars but they would insist we were at the right place. We also found that many became downright nasty when confronted with their lies. This, unfortunately, did not happen occasionally but was pretty much the norm while in Dehli. It sounds like you will have a driver for your entire trip so you will not have to worry about this. Also, the driving in India is maniacal. My suggestion is to sit in the back seat and do not look forward. Drivers think nothing of going 40 mph the wrong way on a one way street with oncoming traffic. In addition they also have to dodge other people, camels, cows etc. The begging is also intense and non stop. It sounds cruel but in order to avoid someone from following, you can not make eye contact and have to pretend as if you do not even see them. The slightest bit of interest and you will have someone tugging on your sleeve until you can get away.

lily, you also missed that this post is 4 years old.

I too saw that this was posted originally about 4 yrs. ago but I must say lily's description of Delhi is timeless. I will be going there again for the 6th time in Oct. and what lily said is just how Delhi is no matter from when I first saw it in 1978 until the last time in 2005. Now of course many things have changed. You have more high rises and shopping malls, the phone service is light yrs. ahead of what it was in 1978 and the TV programming has grown similarly. When I was first there few people even had TV's or phones and even if you did there were like two channels but look at it now. Yet some things like the traffic, the hawking taxi drivers, the beggars and so on never seem to change at all. I'll be very interested to see it for myself again.

I dont care how old the original post , or the followups,are...the info that follows is great and helpful and accurate. Dome of the Fodies forget that people come here for general info, not just answers to one specific person.