internetwiz

I am planning our third trip to Japan for three weeks in October. Our first trip focused on central Honshu, our second trip we were in Kyushu and western Honshu. For this trip, we want to focus on Hokkaido and perhaps spend some time in northern (eastern) Honshu. I’ve started an itinerary, but would really like your input. I’m not sure how many nights we should devote to each place, and I hate the idea of having a string of one night stays. I also want to limit the amount of time we’ll be reliant on driving (vs. public transportation), although I expect we’ll have to drive a good portion of the first part of this trip. And most importantly, I don’t want to cram too much into our stay.

1. Arrive at 7:45PM Chitose; Overnight near airport
2. Fly to Memanbetsu, pick up car. Drive to Rausu (stay there or Utoro)
3. Lake Kussharo (Akan National Park)
4. Daisetsuzan (Mt. Asahi, Sounkyo Gorge)
5. Biei/Furano
6. Toya Onsen
7. Noboribetsu
8. Otaru, drop off car
9. Sapporo
10. Fly/train to ???

From Hokkaido, I thought of two options: fly into Niigata visit Tokamachi (and possibly Sado Island or one of the onsen towns enroute to Tokyo). Or take the train, visiting Sendai/Matsushima, then on to Nikko before ending in Tokyo. Our last three nights will be in Tokyo, but I can cut that short if necessary

Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer. I didn’t see any recent trip reports and these areas seem to be more off the beaten track since they’re harder to get to.

burta

We found Hakodate to be a very interesting small town. If there is any way to add it to your itinerary without backtracking, I would suggest it.

someotherguy

I'll focus on Tohoku, telegram style. Ask if you'd like more detail on any of these places. I find it one of the most interesting areas in all Japan.

Aomori: massive and good Jomon site, quite different to the one you've probably seen on Kyushu. Good access to Oyazumi Jinja--beware that it closes for the season sometime in October. I've continued to the top of the Shimokita peninsular. Very remote. Monkeys. Ohata has squid racing. I've also taken the ferry north to Sai but was the only customer so we bypassed all the intermediate ports, which were the entire purpose of my journey. Aomori also gives access to lake Towada and the Oirase stream. Very scenic in fall, but snow on the passes (road was clear). Hirosaki castle is also within reach.

Jodogahama has spectacular coastal scenery. It's near Miyako, which was one of the towns most affected by the tsunami. I was there soon after and the destruction was awesome to behold. I don't know what it is like now. The Tono area is famous for folk tales and there are some exhibits. There's a 200 year old farmhouse that is an interesting contrast to the usual samurai houses. In a forest nearby are carvings of 500 rakan. One of my most serendipitous discoveries.

The statues in Ho-on ji in Morioka are spectacular. And there are a lot of good places in Hiraizumi. I particularly enjoyed Takkoku no Iwaya. The Dakigaeri, Geibikei, and Genbikei gorges are all good. Check out the flying dango at the last of these.

I was less impressed by Lake Tazawa, but the nearby Grave of Christ (only in Japan) is worth a visit. Kakunodate is excellent.

Matsushima is good. Be aware on the boat trips that you may be there to enjoy the scenery and take photos, but everyone else is there to feed the seagulls. The reconstruction of the San Juan Bautista/Date Maru in Ishinomaki is good and the museum about the voyage of Hasekura Tsunenaga is excellent.

mrwunrfl

Kakunodate!

The places you listed aren't in order, I think.

You do mean Noboribetsu Onsen. I traveled from there to Toyako by bus. The trip was less scenic than I hoped. It stopped for some quality time at the budding volcano near Toya. The Toyako view was great, could have spent more time there but went on to Hakodate which was just ok for me. Hakodate did give some more insight to Japan.

someotherguy

Sorry, I misstyped: Osorezan is the famous shrine on the Shimokita peninsular:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3727.html

I agree that Hakodate is an interesting place.

The boat trips up the NW side of the Shiretoko peninsular are good: there are several waterfalls that land in the sea. The boats go from Utoro.

IMO lake Masshu is more scenic than Kussharo or Akan.

internetwiz

Thank you so much for your input. It's clear to me that I need to upgrade the map I'm using. Do any of you have any suggestions? We'll have GPS when we rent our car, but I need to form a plan long before that happens.

internetwiz

I have been struggling coming up with a viable itinerary since I originally made this post and hope I can get some additional input. I think I have the Hokkaido portion figured out, but the Tohoku part is alluding me. We cannot stay in Nyuoto Onsen; there are no vacancies and I have dietary issues that they’re unable to accommodate anyway.

This is what I have

1. Overnight Chitose, fly to MMB in the morning, pick up rental car
2. Utoro – 2 nights
3. Akan – 2 nights (are there any hotels by Lake Mashu? I couldn’t find any.)
4. Sounkyo – 2 nights (we are going in October so didn’t think Biei or Furano would be particularly scenic)
5. Drop off rental car, train from Asahikawa to Sapporo – 1 night
6. Otaru – 1 night
7. Lake Toya or Niseko – 1 night (tentative) via train/bus – or day trip from Otaru to Shakotan Peninsula (with rental car)
8. Noboribetsu – 1 night
9. Train to Hirosaki – 1 night
10. Miyako – 1 night (or are we better off going to Kakunodate instead?)
11. Hiraizumi – 1 night
12. Sendai – 2 nights (Matsushima, Yamadera, Zao Onsen) – is there a better base for us to do the latter two?
13. Nikko
14. Tokyo

Please let me know if this itinerary makes sense. I’ve tried to focus on scenic areas, with some walking, but my husband can’t do any major treks. I’m also uneasy with our transportation options. I’d really prefer to take trains and buses for the latter part of this trip, rather than rent another car.

I think I’ve taken your earlier suggestions into account. Hopefully this updated itinerary reflects them. Thank you in advance.

mrwunrfl

You sure have a lot of one-night stays. And 2-night stays. For two weeks.

5. I don't see the point in stopping in Sapporo. You could just go on to Otaru that night.

7. If you keep Toyako then it should be after Noboribetsu.

9. Train to Hirosaki is a 6-hour trip from Toya. For a 1 night stay! Add 2 hours if from Noboribetsu Onsen.

janisj

I am not the expert some of the others are -- but I would HATE that itinerary. You will be packing and moving day or two, and all those 1 nighters will give you a mere few hours in most places.

internetwiz

Mrwunrfly and janisj, I hate the thought of all those one nighters too, that's why I was hoping for some advice. We have about a ten days prior to this in Hokkaido, and that is mostly two nights at a time, but I, too hate only staying one night, so if there are places that make more sense as bases, I welcome the input (i.e., Sendai or somewhere else I hadn't mentioned). And yes, I was trying to figure out a stopping place for after we left Hokkaido, but couldn't come up with a viable option.

Thanks again.

Mara

I went to the Tohoku area a couple of years ago and I used Sendai as a base for Yamadera and Matsushima and Morioka for Kakunodate, Lake Tazawa and Hiraizumi....I haven't been to Miyako but it is fairly close to Morioka. I used trains to get around....

internetwiz

Thanks, Mara. I think that sounds like a good plan. I just need to figure out a stopping point between Sapporo and Morioka. I'll take a look at either stopping overnight in Hakodate or Aomori to break up the trip.

Thanks mrwunrfl for the suggestion about Toyako. I originally had planned to skip Sapporo, so you've validated my thoughts.

Like I think others have said, the more times you go to Japan, the harder it is to plan.

donnyrover

Hello, Just came across this post so not sure if you are still planning. We have just spent 2 weeks in Hokkaido and loved it. I think you have done the right thing going for Utoro rather than Rausu but the road between is worth the drive and stop at the 5 lakes area just north of Utoro. Loved Hakodate so if you can fit that in I highly recommend it. The only place we didn't like was Noboribetsu, lots of large hotels crammed into a narrow valley, I could happily have skipped it. For Lake Mashu we stayed at Forrest Lodge Subaru, a fantastic homestay with delightful owners. If you have any questions please let me know, we love Japan and Hokkaido is just beautiful.

internetwiz

donnyrover, this is such good information. I'd already ruled out Lake Toya, as it sounded really touristy, but now you have me wondering about Noboribetsu, too. If we cut that out of our itinerary, we definitely have time to stay in Hakodate. If there are any other gems you'd recommend, please let me know. I will check out the lodge you mention, too. We have a room reserved at a resort, but a homestay might be more our speed.

Mara

I was in Hokkaido for about ten days after Golden Week. I only traveled by public transport.

I didn't think Lake Toya was all that touristy - I stayed one night and was at a ryokan on the lake. There was an interesting volcano museum. And I liked the lake cruise and fireworks which I believe run through October.

I only went to Akan as part of a bus day trip. I thought it was very touristy - I didn't have time for the Ainu Village there as I took a lake cruise - I love those - but the main street was one souvenir shop after another which I did not see in Toya....

As donnyrover said, don't miss the five lakes near Utoro....I also took a boat cruise in Utoro....do you see a theme in my trip? lol....

Adastra2200

I would suggest you consider getting the JR East South Hokkaido Pass, especially if you are going to stop off in northern Honshu along the way.
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361_southhokkaido.html

It's one of the more innovative passes since it is good for 14 weeks, with 6 days of travel in them (your choice). This doesn't mean you're stuck with just those days - just use them for the long distance trips, especially by bullet train. Once you get somewhere, rent a car for the remote places or for short train rides, just pay out of pocket.
See if it fits in with your plans.

Adastra2200

One correction: 14 days, not weeks.

donnyrover

If it's a choice between Hakodate and Noboribetsu then go for Hakkodate. it's a pleasant city that's easy to navigate on the trams, great seafood market and so many food options, we loved just wondering around the place, We stayed at the Sheraton Four Points as the location is ideal, opposite the train station and next to the market, it's just a standard four points but just opened, rooms are small as usual. Noboribetsu just wasn't for us, yes there a few pleasant walks but we did them in a morning. We live in NZ so bubbling mud and thermal areas wasn't enough for us. We had a Japan Rail pass as we were also spending time in Honshu, we picked up a hire car in Abashiri and dropped it back in Furano.
In Utoru we stayed at Iruka Inn, a simple place but glorious views, we took a boat trip to see the bears, very cold but the only chance we got to see bears close up.
Furano, stayed at Natulux as it was right opposite the train station, the staff we so helpful and gave us so many tips on touring the area. Mt Asahidake is well worth visiting but I am not sure what it will be like in Oct, we were there in June and there was still a significant amount of snow you can hire Wellington boots to walk in the snow, the views are stunning.
i hope you enjoy Forrest Lodge, the food was fantastic and they put so much care and effort into everything they do. Lake Mashu is amazing the best views are from the first viewpoint that you come to on the way from Forrest Lodge. There is a large visitor centre further round, it was busy and we didn't think the views were as good, that said they were still amazing.

internetwiz

Thank you again, Mara, donnyrover and Adastra2200. I think what we might do is stop in Noboribetsu on the way to Hakodate. I've booked a room at the Sheraton Four Points, as another friend of mine stayed there recently too.

Adastra2200, I still need to run the numbers for the train passes, but the JR East South Hokkaido Rail Pass doesn't include Asahikawa, which is where we'll be dropping our car. I do like the flexibility of the pass, though, so I need to compare the value between that one and the JR East Tohoku Area Pass, which will get us down to Tokyo.

Mara, we will be doing a boat ride by Utoro, as well as one in Tohoku. I like boats, too, but I'm not too keen about the pirate ship described to me on Lake Toya.

As you can see, I still have much planning to do and October will be here before you know it.

Mara

There is more than one boat on Lake Toya - the one I went on was your ordinary two level cruise boat....I saw the other one in the distance...it looked sort of like a castle...lol....

http://www.toyakokisen.com/ship/

Are you doing the Lake Tazawa one in Tohoku? That was one of the highlights of my trip a couple of years ago - I had seen the famous statue of Tatsuko in a Korean drama...