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Heymo's trip report, Thailand and Cambodia Dec/Jan 2007-08

Heymo's trip report, Thailand and Cambodia Dec/Jan 2007-08

Old Jan 12th, 2008, 08:59 AM
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Heymo's trip report, Thailand and Cambodia Dec/Jan 2007-08

Hello all...I'm going to at least start this trip report and see how far I get. We arrived back in Detroit last evening, and I am still a little sleep deprived...but wanted to get this going while everything is still freash in my mind. First of all, thank you to all who helped me over the past several months to plan and make this trip as special as it was. Our itinerary was as follows:

Dec. 26- arrived in Bangkok (1 a.m.)
Fishing village
Dec. 27- Floating Market, Tiger Temple, Kanchanaburi
Dec. 28- Fly to Chiang Mai, Doi Suthep, village factories
Dec. 29- Doi Inthanon and Karen village
Dec. 30- Elepahnt trek, rafting trip, Karen village and shopping, fly back to Bangkok
Dec. 31-Ayutthaya and fireworks
Jan. 1- Merit making, Grand Palace and Wat Pho
Jan 2- fly to Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Terrace of the Elephants and Leper King
Jan. 3 Bantay Srei, school visit with Ponheary in A.M., Wat Bo school in the afternoon and evening
Jan. 4- Preah Khan, Ta Prohm,Neak Pean, Ta Som,
Jan 5- Tonle Sap Lake, Old Market, hot air balloon
Jan 6- fly to Khao Lak
Jan 7- James Bond Island, Sea Canoes, Monkey Temple
Jan 8&9- Liveaboard scuba diving, Similan Islands
Jan 10- Hang out at hotel, fly back to Bangkok in evening
Jan 11- Flight home

And so it begins...
We leave Detroit on Christmas Eve morning. Our flight takes us from Detroit to Seattle, Seattle to Tokyo and Tokyo to Bangkok. When we arrived in Seattle we had planned to buy a temporary World Club pass, which would allow us access to all the Northwest Airlines World Clubs for 60 days. We instead opted to buy the whole year pass, since my husband flies a lot for business and since he is a Gold card frequent flyer it cost $300. Good thing, too...when we went to board the plane we found we had been upgraded to first class for the rest of the trip! I have to say, it made that flight so much more enjoyable! We arrived in Bangkook around midnight or so, and tong had arranged for a car to meet us to take us to our hotel, the Centre Point Silom. Unfortunately for us, the driver we had didn't speak very much English...and didn't quite get which Centre POint we were staying at. Luckily, I had printed out a map from the hotel's website, and showed it to him. The hotel was very nice, and we had been upgraded to a 1 bedroom apartment facing the river. This was getting better all the time! We got settled in, and had been in touch with tong when we arrived in Tokyo to p[lan out our first day. She said she thought going to the fishing village would be a good thing to start with, it was more relaxing than some of the other things we had planned. We arranged to meet her in the lobby at 11 A.M. What a fireball she is! I told her I recognized her right away from the picture Kristina had of her with the devil horns on...she said she was really sad because her daughter had accidentally broken them. We headed off to the fishing village, but of course not before stopping at a few roadside stands for some snacks along the way. (I know those of you who have been with tong know she can't go for very long without having something yummy to eat!) We stopped along the highway to meet up with one of her drivers, and a family from Brazil who begged to be able to go to the fishing village as well. (tong e-mail me before we left home to ask if it was okay...they would be in a separate boat and not with us at Reed's house on the lake for lunch. we said sure!) We then stopped to get bananas and pomelos to feed the monkeys. We got to Reed's, went to the "Happy room" and were off! Headed right for the mangroves first, where we saw many mudskippers, but very few monkeys. And just when I thought we were going to be disappointed, they came out of the woodwork! Hundreds of macaques, big and small, swimming across the stream to see us! We spent quite a bit of time feeding them, watching them play, and shooing them off the boat! We then went to see the cockle and oyster farms. The water level was quite high, so we could not see as much as usual, according to tong. But we were fortunate enough to have oyster farmers (is that what they call them?) collecting their crop, and got to taste a few right on the spot! They were fabulous! tong said this was the first time she'd been there that she was able to do that...then off the Reed's house for lunch. Tom Yam soup, fresh prawns, fish, crab and pork...more food than my husband and I could ever eat! It was all amazing. Then they put out some bamboo mats and we rested with a couple Singhas while tong finished the rest of the food. That girls LOVES to eat! Took some pictures, thanked Reed and his sister-in-law (who made the food) and started down to the boat. My husband got in first, and while I was trying to make my way down the ladder, I got one foot on the boat and still had one foot on the ladder when the boat started to drift away. To make a very funny story short, I ended up butt first in the water while Reed and I were laughing so hard we couldn't get me back in! I think he laughed for the rest of the afternoon...and so did I. We went down another offshoot of the lake and saw some more moneys and gave them the rest of the bananas, then headed back to the car. The sun was just starting to set, and the vire from the river was so serene and peaceful...if this was just the first day, I couldn't wait to see what happens from here!
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:17 AM
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Keep it coming. I leave Monday and NEED to read your report before I go.

Do you have any restaurant picks for Siam Reap?

Thanks,


LynnieD
(former Detroiter)
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:22 AM
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I do, Lynnie...we really liked Indochine, which is right on the main drag. LOVED the carmel pork! Ponheary said it's her favorite as well...There are LOTS of places down on Pub street, take a tuk tuk down and you can have your pick. One place I'd avoid for food...Molly Malone's. We thought it would be nice to have something other than Thai or Khmer food for a night...but the food was lousy and the service wa terrible. There was a couple pizza places down the street...

Where all are you going?
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:29 AM
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Heymo-
Great report! Glad you were able to recognize Tong from my photo.
One request, could you break the next part into more paragraphs? It makes it easier to read.;-)
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:30 AM
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Wonderful report so far, we haven't done the fishing village on either of our trips to BKK, sounds like great fun.
LynnieD, I have a favor to ask when you go to Siem Reap. If you go to Artisans D"angkor, please ask if there is any way to remove tarnish on the polychromy they sell. My two pieces are badly tarnished and there are no instructions other than wiping with a soft cloth which does nothing. THANKS and have a great time. For Siem Reap dinners, there is nothing that tops the restaurant at Hotel de la Paix, especially the Khmer set menu.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:52 AM
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Thanks for the restaurant recos.

From DC, I plan to go there and will ask the question.

What is Khemer food like? Possible for a vegetarian to eat? (not real fussy on vacations.) Is there such a thing as reservations at Hotel de la Paix for this? Approx. price?

Thanks, heymo, great report, keep it coming. Do not mean to hijack

Lynnie
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 09:53 AM
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heymo - enjoying your rerport. We go in March - BKK, Chiang Rai and Siem Reap. Have our time scheduled with Tong and Ponheary. Looking forward to more details.

LynnieD - glad to hear so many people going before me so I can read their trip reports before we go. Have a great trip - write down all the details!!
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:04 AM
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Day two...woke up at 5, which is pretty good since we went to bed at 8:30 the night before!

tong picks us up at 6:30 for the ride to the Floating Market.

We stopped at a beautiful small temple along the way, our first of this trip. The walls were all carved with beautiful murals of Buddhas road to enlightenment. Gorgeous!

When we arrive at the floating market we run into the man who owns the car service tong got our airport pickup through. When he found out our driver didn't understand where he was going he apologized profusely...no big deal to us, but it was to him. He gave us a discount on our ride to the airport Friday. We paid for our boat, and started off. It was somewhat crowded, but tong said it was nothing like it usually is. Of course right away tong stopped a boat and bought food...fried bananas, which she warned Bill were very hot then proceeded to drop right in his crotch! It was pretty funny...we really enjoyed looking at all the people, and boats filled with different thing to buy...masks and statues and clothing and such. We stopped again and tong got us some iced coffee...served in baggies with straws. Delicious! The boat she usually buys food from to feed the dogs isn't there...and she's clearly disappointed. She gets food from another boat, and we stop to get some lunch. The food is so good, and so fresh, I love it!

Went past the turning point for most boats, and got to see a little more of the way the local people live. Fed the dogs, and by the time we got back to the main route to go back...total gridlock! I think it took us a half and hour to get back to the spot where we launched from! We then went to Tiger Temple.

tong said along the way that she used to not take people there, that it took her some time to get a better perspective on what they do there. She said it was probably not what most Westerners would think of when you think of animal conservation, and she would let us make up our own minds about whether or not the tigers are drugged, and whether we liked it there or not. When we arrived they had the tiger cubs out under some trees, and you could go up and pet them. We took some pictures with them, and then the abbot came with a large tiger.

We were able to have our picture taken with the abbot, something I think is strictly because we were with tong. Then they shuffled all of us aside when the big tiger was brought out, it would be the one we could walk beside to go down to the canyon. There were two woman however who were being treated like royalty...and tong went to ask someone who they were. Apparently they had just made a large sonation to the temple...about 90,000 Baht. So while tongs clients usually are the first to walk with the tigers and have their picture taken with them...these woman had even MORE clout! We opted to have the picture taken with the tigers head in my lap, so we went right after the two women. Bill was taken around first, and he looked like a ragdoll being paraded around to the other tigers...I think we were more manhandled than the tigers were! Then it was our turn with the big tiger. I don't know if these tigers are drugged or not...but they sure are pretty passive. After we were finished there I was taken around to have my picture taken with the other tigers. Then tong wanted us to go back to the big tiger and I would get to lay down with my head on the tigers stomach...she showed me a picture on her phone of her doing it. Cool! But- the tiger didn't NOT want to cooperate. Every time they tried to have him roll over he just rolled back. Okay by us...but tong would have none of that. We waited and waited and she had them try several times, but the toger was having none of it. We finally told tong it was okay...I think she would have had us stay all day to get that shot if we'd let her!

We then went to see her baby...Bam Bam. Bam Bam is an Asian Black Bear, and she clearly loves her. She brought her some milk, and cookies and apples to eat. We went into the cage to feed her and take pictures...and I don't know if tong taught her or the people at the temple, but Bam Bam can Wai! We took a stroll around and sw the work on the new environment for the tigers, I can only hope they give the other animals as nice a place to stay as this will be. I was a little disappointed to see the lion cubs in such a small environment...back up front and we got to lay on a tiger cub and get our picture taken, and I got to feed a cub some milk and calcium tablets tong brought along. Other people were trying to do the same, I think they thought it was part of the experience, but the workers told them it was not. Then a deer who clearly knows and likes tong came bounding up, and would not leave without getting some food and attention from her.

We left Tiger Temple, and went to the Death Railway and Bridge on the River Kwai. Got back to the hotel about 9:30, and threw a load of laundry in the washer in the room. It was nice to have...but it took us forever to figure out how to get the clothes back out! If you've ever tried using one of these washer-dryer combos you might understand...
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:05 AM
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And I'm not going to SR until July, so i can really benefit from all your trip reports!
Heymo, which village did you visit on Tonle Sap lake? Will be interested to hear your SR itinerary when you get to that part in your trip report -- including where you stayed, etc. WE will only have 2.5 days and hope to visit a close-in school with Ponheary and visit the lake. I know, not enough time for everything!
thanks -- keep the report coming.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:07 AM
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Kristina, I tried to break up the first post when I was editing it...it wouldn't let me. This time I think I have it worked out.

Your pictures were great, and the devil horns became a running joke with us...
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:19 AM
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It's so much fun to read your report! I'm glad you had such a wonderful time.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Heymo-2nd installment is much easier to read, thanks!
So glad you had a good time with Tong;she's a gem. I would like to do the fishing village next time we're in Bangkok.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:38 AM
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No details about the Death Railway and Bridge on the River Kwai? Made for a long day - were you glad you included those two??
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 10:57 AM
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*Loving* the report, heymo!
So jealous about the NWA upgrade, lucky you!
I am waiting for the next installment...
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 11:18 AM
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Wonderful narrative. Glad to see Tong has another satified customer. She's a treasure. She was even nice to Bob. And me. That's nearly unique. Can't wait to read more.

In SR, try the Blue Pumpkin and Red Piano.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 11:48 AM
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Heymo--I'm enjoying your report as we will be in Thailand in February.

I can really relate to having one foot in the boat and one on the dock as the boat floated away. That happened to me 2-years ago with a klong boat but I was able to hang on until the inexperienced driver figured out how to get back to the dock with me hanging on. Some guy at the dock ran over to help retrieve me, and I only got one foot wet. Now it seems funny and would have made a great video, but at the time it was not funny since I do not know how to swim! We are going to see the monkeys this trip and I'll try to avoid doing the splits!

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 12:25 PM
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How would I find Tong? An email address?

IN SR the Blue Pumpkin & Red Piano -are they restaurants or bars? If they're rest. what's the food like?
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 12:46 PM
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twilight, the post just below this one at the time you posted is about Tong's website, www.tourwithtong.com
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 12:49 PM
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The Blue Pumpkin and Red Piano are both restauarants. The Blue pumkin has much more westernized food. The Red Piano has Khmer food. If you go to the Red Piano, see if you can get a table on the balcony.
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Old Jan 12th, 2008, 02:45 PM
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Great Report!

LynnieD- Lots of Vegetarian options in Siem Reap. If you want the Khmer dinner at Hotel de la Paix, you need to let them know in advance (the night before) as they need to prepare some of the courses in advance. Two of us had the veg and ttwo the regula; both versions were incredible!
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