sartoric

Dates are 16 April - 4 May 2016.

We have 18 nights including two overnight flights, so 16 nights on the ground. I'm thinking to split the time - 6 nights in Georgetown Penang, and 10 in the north of Vietnam based in Hanoi.
Does this sound like a fair split of the time available?
(We have been to Hanoi before - for 2 weeks in 2009. We saw a lot of the city sights, and included trips to Sapa and Ha Long bay).

For this trip I'm considering :
1. Ninh Binh area for 2 or 3 nights for some mild trekking.
2. Grab a cheap flight to Hue for 2 or 3 nights (we have been to Hoi An but not Hue).
3. Bai tu long bay - we like being on the water.
4. Fly to Da Nang, train to Hue takes 4 hours, we like trains. Fly back to Hanoi.

What would you choose or not, and why ?
Any recommendations for other areas ?

We will be flying with AirAsia to KL from our local airport as there's easy connections to both Penang and Hanoi.

Any hotel recommendations for Georgetown, Hanoi or Hue ?
We like small family run places with some character in a central location. The budget is negotiable, but let's say US$70 per night.

Many thanks for any help.

sartoric

Hello, is anybody out there ......

dgunbug

Satoric - we loved the Elegance chain of hotels in Hanoi and the price was quite reasonable. While it is not a mom and pop operation (not home stay), the staff couldn't be more pleasant, the breakfasts were excellent and the rooms clean. Computers came in each room. We stayed in the hotel located off a small street in the old city and it was charming.

We loved Hue and highly recommend a visit there. Regrettably we did not go to ninh binh.

Sorry I can't say anything about Malaysia. We have chosen to boycott this country as they do not recognize the right for Israel to exist and do not allow those with an Israeli passport to enter the country. While we are not Israelis, we are uncomfortable traveling to a country that frommers cautions against divulging your Jewish background.

sartoric

Thanks dgunbug, I didn't know that about Malaysia. I think my great great grandmother was Jewish, although I never met her. I'll check out the Elegance hotels.

internetwiz

We stayed at one of the Elegance properties in Hanoi too, and loved it.

For Georgetown, we stayed at Campbell House. We liked the relatively quiet location and the owners and staff there were very nice.

crellston

Ninh Binh is really more about boat rides on the rivers and canals rather than trekking. ( although we did a pleasant bike ride there). Beautiful scenery.We ended up in NB at the end of our 4 days trekking from Mai Chau through the Black River valley, Pu Long NP etc. The trekking there was not exactly "mild" but very enjoyable. We used Ethnic Travel who where great at adapting there trip to our requirements ( we asked for more trekking and they certainly delivered - one day was 40km!!)

Incidentally, we met several people there on our last night in NB who, rather than going all the way back to Hanoi, got the night train south to Hue from a nearby train station. Worth considering.

Bai Tu long is preferable to Ha Long itself but you do need to make absolutely sure the operator will in fact take you there - ours sold us the trip on that basis but we just sailed past and only got a passing glimpse of BTL! I think some trips there involve staying on an island rather than a boat. it is still a long drive each way to get there (I wish I hadn't bothered!)

Ba Be may be worth a look. We were there about 8-9 years back when it was just opening up. Very pretty and quite remote lakes area. We stayed in a homestay in a small village with a very friendly family who couldn’t speak a word of english. Some wonderful boat trips and nice hikes even though it wasn’t the best time of year. I think Ethnic Travel had a tour that included Ba Be and Bai Tu Long. some photos @ http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...2280/tpod.html

Ha Giang is also worth a look as it should be a good time of year. we didn't make it there because of the weather. I think you would need to allow 5 days.

In Hanoi, i would highly recommend the Sunline Hotel _ 18 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Ideal location one street back from the top of the lake in a very quiet street. Nice new rooms, decent breakfast and great staff. Some good local restaurants, a short walk to the cathedral and the old quarter. Around $50 US pn.

2-3 nights in Hue would be good. the Imperial Tombs are impressive and you could easily spend a day visiting a few of those. some great food to be had there. Lac Thien is my all time favourite restaurant in Vietnam - near the citadel. Thanh Na does great BBQ (although not sure its up to aussie standards!

6 nights seems a bit too much just for Penang. Have you considered Ipoh? Fantastic food, a graffiti trail and some nice cave temples just out of town. Mid way between KL and Penang, it is very popular with KL residents.

sartoric

Thank you both.

Crellston, I have lots to think about after your post. While we like trains, we'd prefer daytime than night just for the scenery. I had a look at Seat61, there might be a day time train from Ninh Binh to Hue, but the journey is about 11 hours. Too long.

I'll revisit your blog and also check out Ba Be.
I like the idea of Ipoh, and that does provide a train opportunity.

Anyway, we're definitely going. I booked flights to Penang yesterday

Rosy_N

You have very good choices. But Ninh Binh is not really about trekking. Here, I went to Hoa Lu, Tam Coc on boat ride. I did a nice bike ride around countryside, very amazingly beautiful villages. As I love trekking like you, I used a tour of goasiadaytrip.com as they can tailor their tours to my requirements. They did add an exciting trekking at Cuc Phuong to my itinerary in Ninh Binh.
I highly recommend Hue. An ideal place to see scenery, enjoy traditional culture and for food lovers. After staying in the city for 2 days, I chose A Luoi homestay tour here to enjoy a different Hue with ethnic people. Strange but enjoyable experience! This tour lasts 2 days so the next day I went trekking at A Roang Forest. Hue has ancient villages, cities and a lot of things to see.
In Halong, have you been to Tuan Chau and Cat Ba island? When I was in Halong before, I did not have enough time to see Bai Tu Long but it seems to be a good choice too.
About hotel, stay around the Old Quarter to enjoy walking street and night market here at the weekend. Paradise for shopping lovers! If you book a tour, they can suggest you many good place at any price you want.

CaliNurse

The Elegance hotels in Hanoi is part of the Essence Chain. I stayed in two of the Essence hotels are fine ,IF you want to stay in the Old Quarter. I particularly liked having a balcony at the Essence d'orient, as it overlooked the chaos of Beer Corner. BUT as you've been there before, i suspect you'll spend little time there this trip.

The boats owned by Indochina Junk (e.g. Dragon Legend, Dragon Pearl, etc) go to Bai Tu Long Bay. There were no other visible tourists ships when i was there, although it was late September, before prime tourist season kicked in. Highly recommend everything about this company; had a great time on an overnight cruise.

I visited both Ninh Binh and Mai Chau and preferred Mai Chau. I'd had no idea of its lush, almost Swiss-mountain like beauty, before going. Ninh Binh was ok--took fun small boat rides. Nice if you can do both, but if I had to choose, I'd go with MC. I stayed at Mai Chau Ecolodge, which was beautiful, and right in the middle of some great local walk areas. After a bunch "rustic" style accommodations, the modernity and relative luxury and air-conditioning of this lodge was bliss. People in Mai Chau were warm, friendly, sweet. There are surrounding villages with homestay accommodations. There seem to be part of a well-oiled tourist machine, which, after the remoteness and lack of development of some regions I'd been to, was a plus! I learned emphatically on this trip, there's a reason why some places are more popular than others with travelers/tourists (like me!).

Note too that the weather was horrendously hot and humid then--wish i'd chosen your travel time instead. This was the trip where I also most learned after decades of trips, HOW important it is to chose the right time of yr weather-wise

I spent five full days in the Ha Giang area and frankly, wish I had spent this chunk of my limited two week northern VN time differently. Just my opinion, but know that it is a very remote area. Although its natural beauty is truly spectacular, for me at least, it didn't compensate for other factors, like the time in driving, not just to get there, but between towns. I didn't find the local folks particularly friendly or welcoming (unlike nearly every other part of the world in villages, where i've had the good fortune to visit)). Without getting into a long conversation, I imagine there are perfect understandable reasons for this--what i think is essentially shyness-- but nevertheless, that aspect of the journey was a let down.The roads are long, winding, and you do lots and lots of driving. I was lucky enough that my dates coincided with some of the great weekly markets, and they were interesting. IF you want to see some fantastic beauty in that area, i'd recommend going only as far as Panhou Village lodge , almost as far as Ha Giang town. The beauty from the main road, on the long one lane road to the "resort" is worth the trip i think, although the "resort" -espcially the indifferent staff--itself was "meh." I also had the loveliest interactions with local folks there just strolling down a local road-- far nicer than in the rest of that far north area. I met a couple in Ninh Binh who raved about the fantastic five day trek they'd had , organized by Panhou Village's owner (It's o n their website) --so that is definitely something to consider, if you are into trekking. They stayed exclusively at very remote hometays along the way.

I took Crellston's advice and went to Ba Be Lake. Stayed at interesting,enjoyable, three generation homestay by the lake. IF you want "rustic" (sleeping on two intimaters on floor, etc) for a couple days, shared loos, etc, this is a top area, about 4 hours drive from Hanoi. You can get a small boat around the scenic lake, which will take you to a spectacular cave, and there are some lovely walks along the lake's banks.

Dgunbug, i had no idea about Malaysia and its bans. After experiencing KL Airport with the rudest "customer service" women I've ever met anywhere, I never desired a return for any reason. Your information solidifies the decision!

Sartoric, enjoy the planning! I hope to return to VN some day, but will head in a different direction. I look forward to your take on Hue and DaNang if you get there.

CaliNurse

Gotta love those typos...or do i blame autocorrect. I slept on a two inch mattress at Ba Be---not "two intimaters"!!! LOL!

crellston

Sleeping on "two intimaters" sounds much more fun!

sartoric

Ha ha, must admit I wondered about two intimaters as well.

Thanks so much CaliNurse, very helpful. I'll look at Mai Chau.

We loved the old quarter last time, and want to stay there again. I like the idea of a balcony overlooking beer corner !

Yes, the weather is a big factor. After so many hot trips in recent years, we chose Vietnam at this time for that very reason. Having said that, we'll be in Malaysia first (hot) and I'm thinking about Mandalay again after (also very hot). Oh well....

CaliNurse

Coulda been worse. I might have written about the hard "two inch mattress."

Guenmai

I love Georgetown, Penang and just got back from my 6-week vacation to S.E. Asia. I stayed in Georgetown 6 nights this time and 7 nights on the 2014/2015 trip. I stay at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, in the Victory Annexe, which I love. My best friend came along this time and stayed in the Heritage Wing, but much preferred the Annexe. Next time, she will definitely book the Annexe. To each his own as some like the Heritage Wing. It all depends on one's likes, but I went to my friend's room and it was not for me.

On the 2014/2015 trip, I had a regular suite in the Annexe and all suites there have terraces overlooking the sea. My best friend's deluxe room had no terrace and overlooked part of a restaurant roof to her right and cost more than a basic suite in Annexe. Her room was around $235. a night. I had first booked a basic suite in Annexe at $132. on Expedia, and then contacted the hotel and asked for a corner suite. They e-mailed back and said that it was no problem and that I could settle the difference in the price upon check out.

My 123 sq. meter (1,324 square feet) suite cost less than my 12 square meter hotel room in Paris last summer. I was a happy camper to have so much space and for such a reasonable price. I like to be comfortable when away for a long time. Cocktail hour is included in the room rate and there's finger food at cocktail hour. Annexe has its own room and sea view terrace for cocktail hour. The same room is used for breakfast for those in annexe if they don't want to eat downstairs in the main restaurant where guests from both buildings can eat. Of course, there are more food choices in the restaurant, but it's very quiet and nice in the Annexe building and really nice to sit outside on the big terrace, overlooking the sea. Buffet breakfast is included in room rates at the hotel,in general, as is Wi-Fi.

I have just finished the bookings for my 2016/2017 trip and will be back at the E&O. I plan to make Penang an annual add-on to my annual S.E. Asia trips. A really good restaurant that both my best friend and I agreed on was the Kebaya restaurant inside of the 7-Terraces boutique hotel. It's Nyonya food which I've loved for a long time as my city, here at home, had the only Nyonya restaurant in the U.S. back in the 1990s. The otak otak was really good at the Kebaya restaurant as were all of the other dishes that we had.

http://www.eohotels.com/suites.php

Happy Travels!

Guenmai

Sorry, didn't see your last paragraph above for small, family-style places at $70. a night. So, scratch what I wrote. I prefer to stay near the sea as it's cooler and Georgetown can be hell hot as it was last month. In don't know of places that are $70. in central Georgetown and by the sea. But, maybe there are some out there.

Happy Travels!

Cyansiam

Loads of historic hotels in Georgetown....Museum Hotel, Penaga Hotel, Muntri Mews to name a few....have a look on tripadvisor. Great place to visit and good food.

needmorevacation

Guenmai- I'm 99% sure I'll spend one of my weekends in Penang while I'm in Singapore for a month- planning on staying at the E&O- looks like a majority of the major sites are walkable, yes?
Have you ever used a guide there? I've browsed on Trip Advisor, but it seems most are geared towards cruise ships so they're doing every.single.thing in 5 hours, and I'm not interested in that!

Guenmai

I have a private driver to get me to where I need to go. I have also walked a lot although it's hell hot.

Happy Travels!

sartoric

I've come up with this so far, and welcome any comments or suggestions.

Saturday 16 April - Arrive Penang airport 8.10, taxi to hotel www.renitang.com - stay four nights. This booking has free cancellation. We are interested in street food, colonial architecture, peranaken culture, public art (graffiti) and the heritage aspects of Georgetown. Any suggestions for "don't miss" sights or experiences, driver/ guides or a better hotel around US $70 per night ?

Wednesday 20 April - private car to Ipoh, stay one night. Nothing booked yet...suggestions in a central spot..?

Thursday 21 April - 12.14 train to KL, arrive 14.25. Store luggage, go somewhere nearby for a long lunch. Any recommendations for a lunch spot near KL Sentral, we'll have around two hours. Airport train to KLIA for flight to Hanoi, departs 19.10 arrive Hanoi 21.15.

Many thanks for your thoughts.

crellston

Looks like a good plan. The Renitang seems very nice, especially as acomodation tends to toward the expensive in Penang. Seems like a good location.

There is a street art trail around the town but most of it is easy to find, just look for the crowds standing around and pointing their cameras. If you want to do some research in advance - http://www.tourismpenang.net.my/pdf/...t-brochure.pdf

Ke Lok Si temple is maybe 45 mins by bus from the centre but is a don't miss IMO. Also, the Weld Clan jetties are definitely worth wandering around for an hour or so.

Cheong Fat Tze mansion is on most must see lists but now, part has been been converted to a hotel and requires a guide who, in our case, was more than a little tedious.

In Ipoh, the dim sum is superb Ming Court or Sun Kok Kee are central and very good but very busy. We had a great time sharing a table with a Chinese family. Grandma, via her English speaking grand daughter, insisted on taking over the ordering for us. Probably just as well!

Ipoh is rightly famed for its chicken rice and beansprouts. One of the best is Lou Wong.

As you are getting a car, it may be worth asking them to stop at the very helpful tourist office and pick up a map for the street art and info on the caves etc. The graffiti was done by the same Lithuanian artist as that in Penang but the trail is more spread out and can be difficult to locate.

I can't recall the name of the place where we stayed but it wasn't that special anyway.

In KL Sentral there are a couple of food courts, the top two floors have loads of restaurants but when we stayed there a few times, we mostly ate at the Indian places in the streets around. Some great buffets, biryanis, and banana leaf places around. We just took pot luck.