russ_in_LA

As we plan our first Thailand trip for the end of November, one of the most useful and interesting threads I have enjoyed was the following:

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-returning.cfm

I loved reading about both the good and bad in Bangkok, especially with the reasons behind it. With the understanding that there is bound to be some overlap with the information in that fantastic thread (and in order to flush out more of the good stuff) I pose the following question to Bangkok lovers:

• What do you love about Bangkok and why?

In order to give a bit more focus, I will also share my proposed itinerary below. If you can work in any suggestions on order, what to add or what to cut out, or other tips, I’d appreciate it. Here is a bit more info on how we travel, our likes and dislikes:

• Eating: Both high end and dives/street food.
• Shopping: Yes, for local arts and crafts, and local food items. Very little interest in shopping malls. No interest in international chains.
• Sightseeing: A mix of ancient and modern. Exploring temples, historic neighborhoods, museums with a focus on history, food markets, natural and man-made beauty. For example, we loved Japan, where you could see a 20th century museum, walk a few steps to a historic samurai or geisha district, or enjoy a beautiful garden, often all in the span of a few hours. (I have posted detailed trip reports of both Japan trips, if you’re interested).

With the above in mind, here is what we have tentatively planned for our 4 nights and 3 full days in Bangkok. We are staying at the Shangri-la, and plan to do most or all of our transportation via the river or Skytrain:

• Day 1 (Monday) – Land about 1:30pm – Dinner and pass out
• Day 2 - Wat Po/Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaew/Wat Arun, Thonburi Klong Tour
• Day 3 - Jim Thompson House/MBK/China Town/Flower Market
• Day 4 – Food tour or bike tour (Have you done one you liked, and if so, which one). See anything we didn't get to on the previous days.

If you didn't love Bangkok, or only remember the crowds, the traffic, the smog and the heat, believe me when I say that I am expecting those things. But if Bangkok is a place to which you would happily return, please feel free to respond with general info, specific suggestions on what you would do with 3 full days, or feedback on what you might add or delete from my proposed itinerary.

Your feedback is greatly appreciated!

Kathie

I love Bangkok and have been back many times since my first stay in the mid-1980s. You are trying to pack a lot in, so make sure you do the things that are most important to you during the early part of the day.

It's great that you are staying along the river, as it makes your day 2 itinerary realistic. See whether you are still up for the klong tour after you finish the main wats. Chinatown is located along the river, so try to get there that day rather than doing it the next day when you'll be a long way from Chinatown. And since you plan to see Chinatown, do stop at Wat Tramit.

I have to admit that I find MBK just awful - my nightmare of a shopping center. Note that many shopping center have whole floors of lovely Thai crafts. To my eye, MBK is just junk.

The Jim Thompson House is lovely. And there is an outpost of the store there as well for a bit of shopping.

There is a Bangkok food tour that gets great reviews. Do a search, as I can't remember the name of it. I wouldn't consider a bike tour unless you are well-acclimated to the heat.

russ_in_LA

Thanks Kathie, I really appreciate the feed back! I hope by your speedy reply that you are recovering quickly from your recent injury.

Here is the food tour I am considering. Let me know if it is the one you were thinking of:

http://bangkokfoodtours.com/bang-rak...l-walking-tour

I will skip MBK for sure. Do you have a shopping center you might recommend, that's in the neighborhood of where we will already be? This would be low on our priorities, but if we are already nearby, then we might take a look.

I'll consider switching the days of our klong tour and Chinatown if that makes more logical sense. A couple other places I was thinking of seeing were the Suan Packard Museum (which I suppose makes sense after the Jim Thomson House, based on location) and the Prasart Museum. Both seem up my alley. If we only have time for one or the other, do you have a preference? If we did the Prasart I'm imagining it would fall into day 3.

If we have the energy for some light sight seeing relatively near our hotel on our first afternoon/evening, do you have a suggestion? Perhaps Chinatown or the flower market at that time?

Thanks again!

Kathie

Thanks, Russ, I am recovering well.

Chinatown might be a good first stop for you on Day one if you have the energy. You can take a water taxi there.

You are right the Suan Packard Palace would be good in combination with the Jim Thompson House - they are close together

Yes, that is the food tour I've heard so many good things about.

We loved the Prasart, but it really takes half a day - I just don't think you have time for it.

Have a wonderful time in Bangkok!

simpsonc510

MBK is one of my favorites. It is a truly Thai mall...the other mega shopping complexes (Paragon, Central Embassy, Emporium, etc) could be almost anywhere, with their high end designer shops and up scale restaurants or food courts. I will for sure visit MBK during my April Bangkok stay of 11 days. My Samsung tablet is in need of a new battery, and my local Staples store (where it was purchased) will not help me. MBK has an entire floor dedicated to phones and computers. I am sure they can replace my battery. I also like to buy clothing by Thai/Asian designers at the Tokyu department store and other small shops. Many reasons to take a look at MBK, IMO. Up to you! You will be right there when you go to Jim Thompson house as they are both just steps from National Stadium skytrain stop.

You'll be close to a pleasant night market/restaurantcomplex called Asiatique. It is along the river and has a free water shuttle service from Saphan Taksin pier area, just steps from your hotel. Expect a line waiting for the shuttle if you go around 5pm though.

You should have some delightful weather by November/December. Great for dining outside in the evening! Try one of the rooftop venues such as Red Sky, which is atop the Central World mall.

I hope you will enjoy Bangkok! It is my favorite city.

(Why? It has to be all the personal friends I've met and care a lot for, both Thai and expat. I cherish their friendships and going back to Bangkok always feels like I am going home)

FromDC

Russ, we LOVED the Chinatown food tour (evening), one of the highlights of our several trips to Bangkok. It would let you knock 2 things off the list at once and going at night means you won't be walking outdoors in the heat of the day.

Will you be there during Loy Kratong? Full moon in November, great celebration, included in our fondest travel memories. And for shopping my favorite place is the Jim Thompson outlet store. Too bad you won't be there on a weekend, we love the weekend market, maybe next trip.

Guenmai

As for Bangkok and shopping and food, I'm one who tries to stay clear of MBK as I've never been fond of it. My best, Thai friend and I go there sometimes to look for specific things and then are out of there. But, it might work for you so go for it. You can always take a quick exit if it doesn't suit you.

I'm a shopper, but am into fashion and shop at the big malls, along with smaller stores, and buy clothing that I can not get just anywhere; like at 4 of the 5 Soda boutiques around Bangkok and especially the one in the new Emporium EM Quartier Mall, that carries the Urban Nomad collection. My best, American friend and I cleaned up in January 2016 and flew home to L.A. with a lot of uber cool clothing and clothing that can't be found everywhere as it's designed by a female Thai designer, who's been around for decades, and carries her line at her Soda boutiques. It's the same with the big store in Emporium EM Quartier Mall that has separate boutiques in it of different, hip Thai designers as that whole, huge store is Thai designers. So, big malls don't only carry generic. It all depends on what one is looking for and there is some cool clothing in Bangkok, also at Siam Center for those who might be looking for different clothing.

As for arts/ crafts, a lot of the places where I shopped, starting back in the 1990s and on, have closed. I personally haven't found the high level of crafts that I used to find and for what catches my eye. It's too bad that River City Mall has just gone way, way down. It's enough to bring tears to one's eyes. I used to get really great stuff there, but on my last two visits was disappointed as it now looks like a ghost town. There used to be some really good places in Sukhumvit, but I think they're closed now.

Food wise, Bangkok is great. For some really good food, my best friend and I loved Nahm Restaurant in the Metropolitan Hotel. It can be hard to get a dinner reservation, but it's worth it if you can get one.

As for what I love about Bangkok, well, it's that the whole city is like an oxymoron. Never a dull moment, always an element of surprise, confusion, and of opposites. Not boring. I've been going there regularly since the 1990s and my pulse still races of excitement every time the plane touches down on the runway. I recently spent three weeks straight there again. I go to Bangkok and knock myself out and then head for someplace like Penang or Singapore to recuperate from it all before flying back home to L.A. I was away for 6 weeks straight and got home and needed a vacation from the vacation. LOL!

Have fun. Just keep a positive attitude which goes a long way. Smiles.

Happy Travels!

russ_in_LA

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I am definitely more about cultural activities, architecture, food and history. Shopping is way, way down on my list, and then it is usually just to buy a local food product or small memento to take home; but I like hearing other people's impressions. I'm sure I'll have more questions as the trip gets closer. Thanks!

Guenmai

Well, there are plenty of cultural things to do as Kathie mentioned regarding the wats, etc. A lot of those things I've done in the past since I've been going there since the 90s. But, I do love architecture and whenever I'm in a different country or state or city, here at home, I seek out architecture which I discover a lot by being out walking around or taking special walking tours focusing on architecture. I also seek out museums when traveling, but they don't need to be big, traditional types of museums. One of my favorites in S.E. Asia is the Peranakan Mansion/Museum in Georgetown, Penang. So, over the years in Bangkok, I've gone to places that have been more like museum houses.

As for me in Bangkok, it's more about hanging out, catching up on current exhibits/events, hooking up with Thai friends, chit-chatting with Thais wherever I meet them while out roaming around, shopping, and eating really well. Sort of like being at home where I don't need to run around to experience everything new that's happening around L.A., but go to places/events if I feel like doing it.

Happy Travels!

rhkkmk

we love bkk for it's people, it's food (not street food or dives---waaaaaay toooo risky), it's shopping, it's fab hotels at reasonable pricing, it's architecture, it's cheap taxi's---don't only use public transport, it's originality, it's custom made clothing... we dislike the heat and humidity and the length of time it takes to get there from eastern USA..

MBK---fair to poor imo... we love platinum fashion mall which sells most everything.

oh, how could I forget jewelry in the likes above---esp. gold and sapphires---and custom made.

Shangri-La is H U G E.... you will need a nap after walking one end to the other. breakfasts are fantastic--you used to get it free by joining their club--check that out... lobby with all those orchids is lovely...

nov/dec weather is the best of the year.

AnselmAdorne

Russ, my wife and I went on the evening Chinatown food tour in 2012:

http://bangkokfoodtours.com/chinatown/

Our guide was personable and knowledgeable, and the food was terrific.

(Posting from Kanazawa. Thanks for all your Japan posts; they were very helpful in planning our trip.)

russ_in_LA

This is great info everyone! We will definitely do the Chinatown food tour. With two recommendations, how could we not. This will also free up our last day to do whatever we couldn't fit into the first 3 days. Thinking now that I might want to fit in the national museum if we have time. Here is what my revised itinerary is looking like, at this point:

-Day 1: Land 1:30pm - If we have energy, Flower Market/Wat Arun at night
-Day 2: Wat Arun/Wat Po/Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaew/National Museum
-Day 3: Jim Thompson House/Sua Packard Museum/Thonburi Klong Tour/Wat Tramit/Chinatown Food Tour at night
-Day 4: Whatever we didn't get to on days 1 - 3

Thanks again for all the feedback, and to anyone else who wants to chime in!

crellston

Just a warning that, when we were there in November last year, Wat Arun was closed and still covered in scaffolding for its three year renovation. The boat trip downriver to the flower market would still be a nice way to spend your first evening though.

FromDC

We enjoyed a klong ride and the royal barge museum on our first trip. Strongly recommend using a guide with car/driver for day 2.

rhkkmk

btw a klong tour of thornburi takes about 3 hours

Kathie

I have to disagree with From DC on her recommendation to use a car and driver on Day 2 - that would ensure that you spend much of your time stuck in traffic. The best way to get to the temples you want to visit on day 2 is the water taxi (more like a water bus) from the central pier near your hotel. It's a short walk from the dock to the temples.

FromDC

Maybe traffic has gotten much worse since our first trip.I don't recall lots of traffic but I do remember the relief at having our guide walk us through the Grand Palace (and not being bothered by the touts) and other sites, calling for the car when we were finished so that we were very comfortable with A/C and cold drinks and having someone else navigate all the sites for us. I don't think I would have been able to manage things (even the water taxis) on that first full day in Bangkok.

Kathie

When were you there, DC? The area around those wats and the Grand Palace/Emerald Buddha/Wat Pho area has been gridlocked for decades now. Probably a decade ago there was a post from a couple who decided to hire the Pen's car to see these wats. They spent over an hour driving from the Grand Palace to Wat Pho - and they are only a block apart. And the Grand Palace is a place where you don't need to worry about touts as they are not allowed inside the gates. There are official guides you can hire near the entrance for a couple of dollars.

On the other hand, many first times visitors are intimidated by the tuk-tuk drivers who tell them the Palace is closed and offer to take them to jewelry stores or tailors. If you know about the scam, it is easy to deal with - say no and just keep going. A few years ago, Cheryl and I got off the water taxi and walked toward to Palace when a man ran up to us and told us it was closed. I'd been there more than a dozen times since the mid-1980s and had never run into the scam I burst out laughing and the man ran away. Another man walked up to me and said I was smart and the man who told me that was being bad; he was embarrassed that the man had tried to scam me.

If you want a guide your first day to visit those wats, my recommendation is to hire a guide who will take you there via public transport.

rhkkmk

I think a driver far out weighs any time you might spend in traffic and add to that the a/c relief after a couple of hours in the GP, you will be very pleased you did it this way.

it also saves time from making a wrong turn when going from place to place, which is easy to do.

I love boat rides on the river but not for visiting sites.

russ_in_LA

Thanks for the additional info and insight.

I can see the advantages to the private car vs taking the water taxi. I may regret this, but our personal travel style is more attuned to taking public transport (although I do plan to hire a car for our 3 full days of exploring the greater Siem Reap reap area - our next stop after Bangkok). Perhaps I'll see what I think of the temperature upon arrival before making that decision. I tend to be cold when other people are hot (born in LA, spend a lot of time in Palm Springs) so I might find it warm but not overwhelmingly oppressive in late November. We also may just go back to the hotel in the middle of the day to relax by the pool for a couple hours if the heat hits us too hard.

I like the idea of hiring a guide once inside the Grand Palace. We made use of the various Goodwill Guides in Japan the past two years, which we really enjoyed, although they can be hit and miss. The guide at the Edo-Tokyo museum was excellent, the one at Matsumoto castle, less so.

The timing info for the Thonburi klong tour is useful. I think we might push that to our "over-flow" day at the end. Does anyone have any feedback on the merits of just hiring a longboat for an hour or two to go through the klongs vs. going on an organized tour? Can anyone tell me where the tours usually start; or if we decide to just hire a long boat for the klongs, the best place to do so?

I'm also thinking of switching the order of day 3, and starting with the Suan Packard Museum and then proceeding to the Jim Thomspon House. Then we can stay there for lunch. My thought is that we would rely on the skytrain/metro for at least those two stops.

Thanks again everyone!