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First trip to Japan with an infant

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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 07:57 PM
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First trip to Japan with an infant

Was hoping to garner some thoughts as to the best/ most balanced itinerary for a family of 3: the child being a 16 month old. We are planning two weeks and given the young one, can't be too adventurous in terms of skipping locales very frequently. Have been in communication with a couple of reputable travel agents and what is coming up is Tokyo -Kanazawa - Kyoto: probably roughly 4 days in each. My questions were:
- does this make sense? Would the forum consider adding Takayama as well given the baby?
- we are thinking a balance of ryokan and western hotels, but again the moves with the baby will be a little inconvenient. If we were to stay in one place in each city, and were happy to splurge on the high end of things, where would you suggest.

thank you for your time and consideration.
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 08:23 PM
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Personally, I would add time in Kyoto and Nara, and wait for Kanazawa until you have time to include Takayama. JMO. You would still have 2 days or so for a third location, and you have lots of other options, including Hiroshima / Miyajima, Hakone, Koya-san.... (to name just a few).

I'm sure changing locations with an infant will not be easy, but it might be easier in Japan than in many places because of its excellent luggage forwarding option:
It's called takuhaibin; here's the info:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2278.html

I'm not sure I would stay at a ryokan for any stay of more than a couple of days, unless your primary goal is to enjoy the experience of a ryokan. Given the expense, and the common constraints (e.g., making sure you are on site by late afternoon), I would be inclined to make it a splurge experience for just a night or two. Again, JMO. Once you decide on your itinerary, you can consult japaneseguesthouses.com for splurge or other high-end options.

DO scour japan-guide.com for any and all the excellent information it offers. (The only problem I found with it is that I thought it seriously underestimated the time it would take for listed itineraries in Kyoto, which I thought took twice the noted time -- and I was not lingering!)

Consider flying into Tokyo and out of Osaka or vice versa. And add as much time to your trip as you can.

Hope that helps!
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 09:43 PM
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It's very difficult travelling with a toddler, no matter where you go. They are too young to understand what they are seeing, and they want to run everywhere. At best, you are a referee for your entire vacation.

That being said, Japan is better to go than many other places because it is so clean, you can drink tap water, and the chances of getting food poisoning is extremely low. What's more, everyone will enjoy interacting with your child.

In general terms, I would stay in western hotels that have indoor swimming pools. During break times or in the evening, you can have some fun together splashing around. Also, I would concentrate on getting prepared food from the wonderful grocery stores all over Japan. There is sushi, but also many other kinds of food, including fried fish.

For your itinerary, I think four stops are fine for two weeks. For our first trip, we did: Tokyo-Takayama-Kyoto-Hiroshima. I would not worry about the trains--the aisles are wide, so one of you can walk around with your child while the other parent rests. Just plan on longer connection times than you would do if you were alone--go to the Hyperdia website, and choose 30 minute connections.

It's a personal decision where to go. Do you like temples, mountains, or big cities? Write back with your interests. Takayama is one of my favorite cities in Japan, and it would be a a shame to miss it. I don't think it's any worse or better than other cities with a toddler--you just have to plan on doing less, and taking long breaks.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 01:26 AM
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 06:13 AM
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Great - thank you all for your feedback, thoughts and ideas. If you all think that traveling by train within Japan isn't overly onerous, I'd love to hit 4 spots given we have 2 weeks and are coming all the way from Boston.

Therefore:
Tokyo-Takayama/Kanazawa-Kyoto-?.

Does this seem reasonable?
can we count Takayama/Kanazawa as one stop?
what would be the last leg of the trip?
would you consider not staying at a ryokan considering it'll add moving within a location with the little one or perhaps just do it for two nights in Kyoto for example?

We love seeing the urban culture, but would enjoy the iconic mountain/ scenery of Japan too.

Will happily fly out of somewhere else if easier. JAL Boston to Narita direct makes sense for the international portion

Thank you all for taking the time to guide us through this.
warmest
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 08:54 AM
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when is your trip?
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 09:33 AM
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>>can we count Takayama/Kanazawa as one stop?
You mean split your one stop in Kanazawa into two stops, I think.

You could stay in Kanazawa and drive to Shirakawago & Gokayama or to Takayama as a day trip.
http://www.kanazawa-cb.com/en/tooltour.html
Sounds like it would be 4 hours of driving roundtrip to Takayama, so it might be a rush to visit all of those places in a day trip.

I would choose this as a day trip: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5950.html over Takayama.

You could visit both Shirakawago/Gokayama and Takayama on an overnight side-trip from Kanazawa. Spend the night in a traditional ryokan in Takayama.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 10:30 AM
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trip is sept 10-24 2016
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 03:58 PM
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I spent 3 days visiting Kanazawa and Takayama (2 separate stops -- really, IMO, too far apart for a day trip) and felt that I shortchanged both places. I wish I'd given the 2 cities, together, 5 days.

I also felt rushed trying to see Kyoto and Nara in "just" 6 full days.

It really depends on what YOU want to see and experience.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 10:35 PM
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September is a lovely time to travel in Japan. However, it is unclear how many "hotel nights" you have to work with. At this point, you should post a tentative schedule something like this:

Sept. 10 leave Boston
Sept. 11 arrive Narita 4 PM
Sept. 12
and so on...

In that way, we can all see how many nights we have to work with. Just plug in what you know, and leave question marks where you don't.

It sounds like you are leaning towards three stops--Kyoto, Tokyo, and either Kanazawa or Takayama, but not both (please choose one). We spent three nights in Takayama, and it was perfect--we did a bus trip for the day to Shirakawa-go.

Besides the websites that kja mentioned, I like to freeload at my local Barnes and Noble. The Eyewitness books are good since they have nice pictures.

So it's time for you to do a little research, and then post a tentative itinerary.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 10:43 PM
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I can't comment on the challenges of traveling with a toddler, but I agree with kja's last reply above. We did Takayama on our first trip and gave it two nights, and Kanazawa on our second trip and gave it 3 nights. We felt that was the right amount of time for each. If you have two full weeks on the ground (meaning 14 nights) then, in your place, I would allocate the itinerary you have presented as follows:

Tokyo - 4 nights (possible day trip to Nikko or Hakone)
Takayama - 2 nights (one full day seeing the city)
Stop in Shirakawago/Gokayama on the way to Kanazawa
Kanazawa - 3 nights (2 full days to explore the city)
Kyoto - 5 nights (with day trip to Nara)

If you have only 12 nights, then drop Takayama or Kanazawa. Yes, you could spend your entire time just in Kyoto and the surrounding area and not see everything, but given the destinations you have in mind, this strikes a nice balance to me.

I agree with mrwunrfl, if I wanted to stay at a ryokan on this trip, I'd do it in Takayama.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 11:09 PM
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"If you have only 12 nights, then drop Takayama or Kanazawa."

Or drop both, and add either Hiroshima / Miyajima or Koya-san.... Just a thought!

BTW, other guidebooks with great pictures are the National Geographic Traveler and Insight Guides.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 11:43 PM
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If you're not taking a car seat on the plane, see if the airline has an infant cot available. We found that really helpful for nap/sleeptime when we flew with little ones. I can't remember if there was an age/size limit (our kiddos were pretty small).

Have you flown with your child before? If so, do you know if they fly well? One of our children was easy, the other had a meltdown on at least one leg of our 4-6 stop flights... I always had little surprises (wrapped if I had time) to dole out to keep them busy. And tons of snacks.

My preference was always to change hotels as infrequently as possible. I wonder if Japanese (tatami) rooms would be easier with a toddler?

We would try to do something active in the morning that might interest them, then drive or use the stroller in the afternoon and see scenery while the kid(s) napped.

Your child might enjoy the Ghibli Museum outside of Tokyo: http://www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/welcome/ It's one major disappointment of our upcoming trip that the museum will be closed for renovation - my teenage kids have loved the movies of Studio Ghibli for years. You need to reserve tickets before you go.

I hope you have a great trip!
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 11:45 PM
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Oh, and think about an open jaw ticket - in to Tokyo, out from Osaka. It would save you train time and money.
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Old Mar 11th, 2016, 09:44 AM
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My experience is that September in parts of Japan can still be extremely humid. It can be a shock to us Bostonians. Consider how well your child does under those conditions, perhaps fussier, and requiring a less demanding schedule for a more pleasant trip for all.
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Old Mar 11th, 2016, 01:58 PM
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We never traveled to Japan when our son was very young, only as an older student so this question came to mind. Are babies/toddlers welcome at ryokans? I ask because I have no idea whether they are or not.

Hotels and inns located in modern buildings would be no problem, but what about traditional ryokans in wooden structures with less privacy. I wonder if very young children might be viewed as impacting other guests. Does anyone know? Probably best to inquire prior to booking anything.
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Old Mar 11th, 2016, 07:24 PM
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I agree, curiousgeo. If I were laying out the big bucks for a ryokan, I would be mad if someone brought a small child. My sons were generally well behaved, but at that age, they were running everywhere. Hotel rooms in places like the Marriott have insulated walls, so you would be less likely to disturb other guests.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2016, 10:23 PM
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Our first trip to Japan was when our son was 18 months old and we all had a wonderful time.
He was happy just walking/running in open spaces and playing with stones. We were able to visit lots of places while he slept in the baby carrier. We also took our stroller that is lightweight and foldable.

We did Kyoto - Takayama - Tokyo.
Kanazawa would be a great option as the shinkansen runs there from Tokyo.

We stayed in a ryokan in Takayama for 2 nights and our hosts were very friendly towards our little boy. We chose a lower budget one as I did think taking a toddler to a luxury ryokan may be rude to other guests.

You can read about both our trips on my blog http://www.strollingadventures.com/
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