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first draft for Vietnam trip. Critique please

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first draft for Vietnam trip. Critique please

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Old Oct 3rd, 2016, 02:51 PM
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first draft for Vietnam trip. Critique please

Hello again. We have been doing a lot of research and reading and now think we are ready to start to narrow down a plan for our upcoming Vietnam trip.
I would love to hear about logistics for getting from Point A to B and also if we have too little time in each place.
We want to see it all of course, as it looks amazing, but don't want to see more of the same if you know what I mean. If one place we are going is very similar to another then we will spend more time somewhere else. We don't want to go somewhere just for the sake of saying we were there, if it is the same as where we just left.

April 25. Arrive Saigon at 8PM. Overnight
26/27. Head to Can Tho by bus?? for two nights to explore Mekong Delta.
28/29/30. Fly ?? to Phu Quoc to spend time on the beach.

May 1/2/3 fly? to Danang and make our way to Hoi An for 3 nights
May 4/5 train? To Hanoi for two days and then leave on evening train to SaPa
May 6/7/8 SaPa and explore area
May 9/10 we want to go to Ba Be Lake area. How to go from Sa Pa here????? hire a driver?
may 11/12 two night cruise to Bai Tu Long Bay Do we have to go back to Hanoi?
May 13/14 Mai Chau. How to get here from Halong Bay??

May 15/16 Hanoi fly home on the 16th.

are we moving too much? I don't really want to go back to Hanoi every time while in the north. I have heard that being on the road is not a great idea, busses can be dangerous and trains are a better option. Would a tour be better? I see some tours that do SAPA, Ba Be and Mai Chau. I am not really a tour person, but if it makes the logistics easier and it is a small tour group I am okay with that.

I do realize that we don't have any time in Ho Chi Minh, (Saigon) and that is fine with us.
Any tips are very much appreciated.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2016, 09:18 PM
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IF you want to go directly from the port at Ha Long Bay, to Mai Chau, you can hire a private car. But that is a long drive.

Everything you want to do is do-able this way (car hire) but note that there are longggg distances of driving between some of those areas.

As much as I enjoyed Ba Be lake, in the context of the rest of your trip plan, i think it makes more sense, if you want to see a lake with caves, to instead consider Ninh Binh area (not the city itself--the areas around it). BaBe is more remote for sure, but in an entirely different direction from Hanoi. If you substitute NB for BaBe, you can easily do a car trip from HaLong, to Ninh Binh, to Mai Chau, then back to Hanoi for your trip home. (I did that loop and it was quite comfortable time wise.)
I didn't go to SaPa but wishI had. However, I gather it has similar or even more stunning spectacular mountain scenery than Mai Chau.
Considering how much you want to get around in limited time, I'd recommend at least checking a local VN agency to see what they suggest. This is what I did, with no regrets whatsoever!!

Another idea is, after Hoi An go from DaNang to Hue and parts beyond via train-- hoping some who have done this can add some info re how it would fit with your plans. Hoping Crellston will chime in, as I believe he has been to ALL the areas you describe, and can compare better than I.

Good luck!
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Old Oct 3rd, 2016, 09:28 PM
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"are we moving around too much" - I think you are. But only you know your style of travel style and what you are happy with.

Your trip, as describe is entirely possible but some of the travel times will be long. Some very long.

Some random thoughts:
Saigon to Can Tho will take around 4 hours by bus. You need to get the bus from a station in District 7. As you don't want to spend anytime in the city I would arrange for your accommodation in Saigon to book tickets for you and get a taxi there first thing.

I am pretty sure flying there would involve going via Phu Quoc. I suppose you could move that stay to the beginning, fly to Cantho and then get the bus back to Saigon airport and fly to Da Nang from there.

Da Nang to Hoi An is an hour by taxi and costs around $15 . Taxis are readily available at the airport and train station. It will probably cost a little more but it is worth popping in to visit the Marble Mountains en route. A couple of hours should be enough.

We enjoyed our train rides in Vietnams and they are a lot safer than the buses! Just make sure you book soft sleepers and avoid the cabins at the end of the carriages (I think berths 1-4 and 24-28). Bottom bunks are the best. Full info on train schedules at http://www.seat61.com/Vietnam.htm also some useful stuff on getting to Hoi An.

Some buses are necessary but cars are (usually) safer and are reasonably priced if you haggle. I would avoid night buses completely. Accidents are frequent and often very serious.

Which train you choose depends on whether you want more time in Hoi An or Hanoi. My choice would definitely be Hanoi.

Like you, we are not fans of tours but in parts of northern Vietnam it is often the only realistic option if time is tight.

Last year we did look at doing more or less what you describe - Sapa - Ba Be - Bai Tu Long but that would have been from Hanoi. In the end we decided on Mai Chau, Ninh Binh, Pu Long and the Black River ( and loved it!). We used Ethnic Travel who were very helpful in tailoring a trip for us (and changing it as we went!). We did it on a private basis and for two of us it was quite reasonably priced. Worth asking for a quote I feel.

The last time we went to Ba Be was in 2008. Two things I remember, it was very cold and it took a long time - about 7-8 hours from Hanoi. I think it is a lot quicker now because of new roads. Also, accommodation then consisted of only basic homestays. It would have been difficult to organised not speaking the language. I am sure it could be done independently, but not on limited timescale.

I am sure you would be able to get a car and driver from Sapa to Ba Be but I fear it may be expensive and you would still have the issues of sourcing accommodation and transport when there. Ba Be to Bai Tu Long is possible, but again, it would be much easier with a tour.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2016, 09:39 PM
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We were posting at the same time Calinurse! I agree that Ninh Binh is logistically a lot easier than Ba Be (and I think I preferred NB - as long as you avoid the crowds which is easy with a decent guide).

Sapa is beautiful - a bit like Mai Chau on steroids, but it has been 12-15 years since we went and I read that it has become VERY over touristed in recent time especially since a new highway opened up. Like most such places, the tourists come for good reason!
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Old Oct 3rd, 2016, 10:17 PM
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Thanks to you both. I will drop Ba Be lake I think then.
I did just now get a response from Ethnic Travel They are very reasonable and flexible with what we want.
So you are both suggesting that perhaps SaPa or Mai Chau, maybe we don't need to do both?
Perhaps then Mai Chau would be better and just spend more time in that area?
Crellston I will look at maybe starting off in Phu Quoc and then to Can Tho.
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Old Oct 4th, 2016, 12:45 AM
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We went to Ninh Binh and Mai Chau using a customised tour by Ethnic travel recently and also to Sapa, (in 2009). I'd say the mountain scenery was spectacular in both areas. What we really enjoyed in Sapa was walking with a hill tribe guide for a day. Like Crellston I believe Sapa has grown a lot in tourist numbers, still, I'd hope you could find a relatively unworn path with a good guide. Hotels are great for helping out with logistics, like guides, train tickets etc.

I'd rethink three overnight train trips. I recall the overnight train ride to Sapa as like trying to sleep on an ironing board in a giant washing machine. It might have improved. A good short day time trip is Da Nang to Hue, only 2.5 hours and it's very scenic hugging the coast. Spend a night in Hue and fly to Hanoi.

The plan for Hanoi- Ba tu Long bay - Ninh Binh - Mai Chau - Hanoi as suggested by CaliNurse is is a good one. A fair bit of driving but no more than 4 hours at a time.
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Old Oct 4th, 2016, 02:13 AM
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I agree with Sartoric that the scenery in both Mai Chau and Sapa is spectacular, just different. Sapa is arguably more dramatic.

Some photos on our old blog of both Sapa and Mai Chau http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...ai/3/tpod.html

Some photos of Ninh Binh and elsewhere on our current blog https://accidentalnomads.com/category/vietnam/

Sartoric's decription of the train ride to Sapa is excellent! I don't recall getting much sleep! Apparently, there is a new highway from Hanoi to Sapa so a daytime trip by car, on eor both ways may be possible, although that would eat into your time considerably.
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Old Oct 4th, 2016, 08:12 PM
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ok thank you . Back to the drawing board.
draft 2.

april 25 HCMC one night at airport
april 26/27/28 fly to Phu Quoc for three nights

april 29 /30 perhaps the ferry, or fly to Can Tho and make our way to Ben Tre for 2 nights

May 1 make our way in the afternoon to Can Tho for overnight ( perhaps a boat trip from Ben Tre to Can Tho Crellston??)

May 2, 3, 4. morning floating market and then head to HMC for flight to DaNang Make our way to Hoi An for 3 nights

may 5 fly from da nang to Hanoi 9AM for day in Hanoi
may 6 Hanoi. overnight train to Sapa
may 7/8/9 three nights in Sapa do a market on sunday

May 10,11 Mai Chau and Ninh Binh
May 12 drive from ninh BInh to Halong for Bai Tu Long cruise (two night)

May 13 Bai tu long bay cruise

May 14 back to Hanoi
May 15 Hanoi
May 16 fly home at 830AM.

I have contacted Ethnic tours and they have given me a quote and tour for the Sapa/Mai Chau and Ninh Binh portion and will drop us off in time to catch the junk for the two night cruise. Or should we have two nights Sapa and 3 nights in Mai Chau. Or redo it so I have 3 in each?

Comments? Thanks so much everyone.
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Old Oct 4th, 2016, 08:42 PM
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I found that two full days in Sapa was enough. At the time I was there, the only option for getting there from Hanoi was the overnight train each way, so I only stayed in Sapa one night, with days hikes on each of the two full days. I used Sapa Sisters for hiking guides, and they do an excellent job. However, Sapa is indeed infested with tourists and people are all over the trails, so it was enough.
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Old Oct 4th, 2016, 10:25 PM
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From what I have seen of the flights, visiting Phu Quoc first makes sense. Staying near the airport as you are arriving late and leaving early does make sense, but it is only 20-30mins into the centre.

Can Tho to Ben Tre is, I think around 3-4 hours by bus, possibly less by car where you would have the advantage of choosing your departure times. The boat trip is great but took around 8 hours stopping for an hour for lunch in Vinh Long? We shared a boat with some others in our guesthouse who wanted to do the same trip and I recall it cost $20 PP. So renting a boat should be around $150/160.

Ben Tre is smaller and gets less tourists than Can Tho which is effectively just a city of 2 million. One full day would enable you to take a boat tour along the small canals - recommended.

The main reason for going to Can Tho is Cai Rang, or one of the other floating markets. Although there is some great streetfood there too. Cai Rang is best seen by getting a boat at 5.30am and sailing an hour or so upriver to hit the market at dawn. We stayed in the city but a homestay in the countryside is worth looking at.You should be back at 8.30 which means you could be back in Saigon by around midday.

ALTERNATIVELY!

Here is an idea ( and one I may use when we return next year) . Our favourite place in the delta is Chau Doc near the Cambodian border. Loads to see, Sam Mountain, the submerged forest, the Cham villages and in elf the best markets in Vietnam. See our blog for photos.

I am pretty sure the ferry from PQ docks at Rach Gia which would be an hour or two drive from Chau Doc. Murray Lodge Guesthouse is an excellent place to stay and they can arrange everything in the area. Three nights and two full days should provide enough time to see everything above.

From there, the bus to Can Tho takes 3.5 hours. You could overnight in Can Tho, get to the market at dawn and head off back to Saigon for either a flight or overnight train to Da Nang. It is also possible to visit Cai Rang from one of the homestays in the area rather than satying in the city.

SAPA v MAI CHAU

Both places have suffered from massive increases in tourist numbers in recent years but I think it would be easier to get away from the crowds in Mai Chau. I would not plan to stay in the main part of MC as it would be way too busy. Go for one of the smaller villages in the valley.

The train to Sapa gets in before dawn so you would have a full day on arrival to see the town (and get over the train journey!) . I agree with CaliforniaLady that two days would be enough for the town and a day hiking in the valley. Clearly, the further you trek from the main town, the less crowded it will be, but that may require an extra day. Two nights should be enough. If you want to visit the market you do need the other day/night.

When we last visited Bac Ha market we did the Dien Bien Phu loop from Sapa to Hanoi via DBP Son La and Mai Chau. That could also be a possibility see https://www.travelfish.org/trip_plan...dien-bien-loop I am sure Ethnic could quote you for that trip. Maybe booked the loop with a couple of days apiece in Sapa and Mai Chau- maybe a week in total. A lot of travel though on some rough roads but some stunning scenery and a road less travelled - at least in parts! Just a thought!
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Old Oct 6th, 2016, 07:05 PM
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Me again.
Thank you so much for all your help so far. I could not do this without you guys!! We are trying to simplify and not move so much.
It all looks so amazing it is hard to cut places however.

draft 3

We are going to skip Phu Quoc.

After an over night in HCMC we will head to Can Tho by bus for an overnight
April 27. morning market at Can rai ( short or long tour??) then transfer to Ben Tre
April 28 Ben Tre
April 29 Ben Tre
April 30 transfer to HCMC and fly to Da Nang. Transfer to Hoi An. Stay at beach hotel (instead of Phu Quoc)

May 1 Hoi An (get some clothes made perhaps)
May 2 Hoi An
May 3 Hoi An. explore the area from here.

May 4. Fly to Hanoi. afternoon in Hanoi
May 5. Day in Hanoi. Night train to Sapa

May 6 Sapa Market and trekking
May 7 Sapa trekking
May 8 Sapa then night train back to Hanoi

May 9 arrive Hanoi 5AM day in Hanoi
May 10 Hanoi

May 11 drive (tour) to Mai Chau/Ninh Binh
May 12 Mai Chau/Ninh Binh

May 13 drive to take cruise to Bai Tu Long Bay
May 14 cruise (2 night cruise)

May 15 back to Hanoi afternoon.
May 16. fly back to Vancouver at 830AM.

What do yo think? Less moving around or still too much. I am really wondering about doing both Sapa and Mai Chau but both look so different and amazing. I can't think of anything I want to drop at this point.

Thanks again. Wish I had more time!!!
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Old Oct 6th, 2016, 08:41 PM
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I'd drop a night in Hoi An, (they make clothes incredibly fast). Add that night to Hanoi. One night on the bay works remarkably well, so skip one, and add that to Mai Chau/ Ninh Binh. It's still a moving around, but I'd do this quite happily.
Travel light !
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Old Oct 7th, 2016, 05:49 PM
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Agree with Sartoric, one night cruise on Bai Tu Long Bay will be fine. All us passengers loved it, but not one expressed disappointment that it didnt last an additional night.
Note that Indochina Junk company's comfortable van (has wifi too!)returning you to Hanoi from Ha Long pier will not arrive back in Hanoi to your hotel until early evening, approx 5:30- 6:00 pm. They break the trip in a village with a water puppet show. My friends enjoyed the stop of leg stretching, and looking around the village, which of course, is set up for the van passengers (I instead went from HaLong to Ninh Binh directly.)

the two nights allotted to MC/NB: One night in Ninh Binh and one night in Mai Chau will be too rushed. Imho, try for two nights in MC, one in NB. (I did the reverse, but wish i'd had more time in MC--others may disagree.) As Crellston said, stay outside the town itself. Am Chau Ecolodge is lovely and in easy walking or biking distance of nearby villages. In NB, avoid the city itself. If you want to stay in a nice small inn or home (with en suite bathroom ) in a village, there are many choices.
Re getting to Sapa on train, the "new" (a few yrs old) highway between Hanoi and Sapa apparently cuts quite a bit of time. You can leave Hanoi at 6:00 a.m. and be in Sapa by noon--or so I heard while in Hanoi. I don't know the logistics or prices, and suspect it will be more to travel by car. Maybe drive up one way, return by train?
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Old Oct 7th, 2016, 05:52 PM
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Sorry--that should read Mai Chau Ecolodge. Note that Mai Chau LODGE is in town. That too sounds nice, but is right on main street.
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 07:58 AM
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Thanks again. I wanted the two night cruise for extra kayaking and getting further from the crowds. I will keep working on this
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 10:21 AM
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We haven't been to phu quoc and am not sure of the allure. My main thoughts are that you have too little time in Hanoi and you are missing Hue, which IMO was fabulous. I would consider giving up phu quoc. If you really want beach time, stay outside of hoi an on the beach and combine beach time with shopping and strolling through hoi an.
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 10:25 AM
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We took the train to and from sapa and did not think it was too terrible. We liked the fact that we lost no time on either end - provided you can get some sleep.
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 11:00 AM
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dgunbug, yes we are giving up Phu Quoc, that was what my draft 3 was, and instead putting in beach time at HoiAn. Thanks, that is what we figured was better too.

I am thinking perhaps one way on the newer busses to or from Sapa and the other way overnight train. It seems that the bus leaves early morning and gets to the destination at 1PM, so we can see the scenery and not give up an entire day doing so.
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 11:01 AM
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Live4, you get just as far from the crowds on the one night as on the two night cruise, assuming you're talking about Bai tu Long Bay. That's the beauty of that end of Ha Long Bay, in which (I may be wrong on this though) Indochina Junk has exclusive rights to sail.
Still, as it seems this is the unchangeable part of your plan, so go for it!!!
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Old Oct 19th, 2016, 02:02 PM
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I wanted to come back and let you know what we have decided. Thanks to everyone for the input, it helped us so much.

April 25 Day 1. Arrive at 10PM. Overnight HCMC near the bus depot
Day 2./3/4/ travel by bus to Ben Tre for three nights.
Day 5/6/7 Fly from HCMC to da Nang. Hotel on river in Hoi An 3 nights.

May 2. Day 8 Afternoon flight to Hanoi. Three nights Hanoi
Day 9/10 Hanoi . Booked in Old Quarter.
Day 11 Morning bus to Sapa on Sapa Express. Arrive 1PM.
Day 12/13/14 Sapa. Late overnight sleeper train back to Hanoi
Day 15 Hanoi

Day 16/17 Bai Tu Long Bay cruise on Prince 2, Indochina Junk 2 night

Day 18/19/20. met by Ethnic Tours for tour to Mai Chau and Ninh Binh.

Day 21. travel back to Hanoi for the night
May 16 Day 22. Fly back to Canada in the morning.

What we have left out is Phu Quoc and BaBe lake as well as the Market at Can Rai.

We can't do it all sadly, but hope that this gives us a good cross section. I will post a trip report when we have come back. Thanks again.
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