I plan to take the hop-on bus for my first day in Seoul (this Thursday), and either go on the DMZ tour the next day or the Korean Folk Village. What is recommended? I'll be going to Arirant Minsokgwan the first night (dinner and Korean dancing), and could go to the National Museum; on the other hand, if the DMZ tour is dull, I'd rather not spend the time and money to get there. Also, of the five main temples in Seoul, which would you suggest? I've been to Thailand, India, etc., so quality rather than quantity would be the point. I plan to spend as much time as I can in the markets and eat a lot of street food and at inexpensive (galbi, mandu) restaurants. Recommendations? Any other suggestions? Thanks!
DMZ or Korean Folk Village
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Hello, Vietnam
I enjoyed both the DMZ tour (the one that takes you into the conference building) and the folk village. The folk village is "touristy," but it gives you at least some feel for the "old" Korea if you have only a limited time in the country. It really depends on your interests. The DMZ tour was never boring for me considering that one never knows what sort of action the north might decide to take at any particular time.
You have to distinguish between a tour to Panmunjom (the truce village with the conference building mentioned by Paul1950), which is really interesting (and sobering), and one to the "DMZ" (third tunnel etc.), which is less so. These are half day tours and the combination is good, but if you only do one it needs to be the Panmunjom one. Check if these are still running--tensions have been a bit high recently. You need conservative dress and your passport for the Panmunjom tour.
I've not been to the Folk Village, so cannot offer a comparison.
Read my trip report from last year. They are such different experiences that it is almost impossible to pick one over the other. Do not miss the National Museum it is great.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/nywomans-sea-trip-korea.cfm