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DMZ or Korean Folk Village

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I plan to take the hop-on bus for my first day in Seoul (this Thursday), and either go on the DMZ tour the next day or the Korean Folk Village. What is recommended? I'll be going to Arirant Minsokgwan the first night (dinner and Korean dancing), and could go to the National Museum; on the other hand, if the DMZ tour is dull, I'd rather not spend the time and money to get there. Also, of the five main temples in Seoul, which would you suggest? I've been to Thailand, India, etc., so quality rather than quantity would be the point. I plan to spend as much time as I can in the markets and eat a lot of street food and at inexpensive (galbi, mandu) restaurants. Recommendations? Any other suggestions? Thanks!

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