DEL/Agra/Rajastan in 7 days

How does one find a car and driver in India?

NO! Do not get a driver and drive at night like that. You must drive during daylight hours.

After your flight, go to a hotel and SLEEP. Start your next day rested.

Note that you will not be able to visit the Taj Mahal on Fridays. It is closed.

There is a daily train from Delhi to Agra called the "Shatabdi Express". It is the quickest way to get to Agra - about 2 hours.

For 7 days, you will only be able to Delhi, Agra and one other city, most likely Jaipur. There aren't really any small, uncrowded places. Afterall, this is India with a gazillion people.

Delhi alone can use up two to three days of your trip as there is much to see.

You should scroll through other postings here because there have been many recent ones about the Delhi-Agra-Jaipur area.

Do not drive at night in India. The Grand Trunk Road is one of the busiest highways in India, with a combination of big trucks with tired/drugged drivers, camels, animals, poor lighting, and lots of other animals and vehicles on the road. If you really want to go at night, have a taxi take you to the rail station and go by train.

3/5 is a Friday, so you probably will want to do agra at the end anyway.

I highly recommend a vey good driver by the name of Narender. He can be reached at Anoophindustani@yahoo.com. I've used him on several trips. He will take a while to respond to your email as he only has access while at home, and tends to be driving overnights a lot. You can hire him by the day or week or even by the half day in Delhi.

You do not have time to go to all those places in six days. I'd recommend that you drive from Delhi to Jaipur, then on to Agra, and finish in Delhi. 2 nights in each + the extra nicht in Delhi.

NO NO NO

take the train to agra the next morning or start off in a car..

use any of the agents spoken of here to hire a car...

i used castle and king... google them

and you can't possibly do all of that in 7 days and enjoy it

Driving on that road between Delhi & Agra, during the night, is adding one more to the numbers who deliberately commit suicide!You may stay in a hotel which locates near the Mathura Road & drive off to Agra early next morning or take a train & be met by your driver at Agra.
IMO,the finest temples in North India locate in a remote area of South eastern Rajasthan, just about 5 hours drive from Sawaimadhopur on the new trunk road.There is still a wealth of sculptored images left at Baroli & these are in the opinion of Art experts, superior in execution to the exotic images in Khajuraho. The temples date back to the 9th century & some of the images stolen from here resurface in international art auctions.
About 4 miles west of these temples is a wonderful heritage property Hotel Bhainsrorgarh, located directly on a cliff above river Chambal.

Hi Lisa,

I also recommend that you sleep in Delhi before you head to Agra. You can either take the train or drive to Agra, but for the rest of the trip I would use a car and driver. As mentioned above, you can't do the Taj on a Friday. Going to Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur is a lot for only a week. As much as I liked Jodhpur, you should probably drop it for this trip. This is my suggestion (and you may want to consider flying back to Delhi from Udaipur on 3/12):

Delhi -- 2 nights (3/4 and 3/5)
Agra -- 1 nights (3/6 and 3/7)
jaipur -- 3 nights (3/7, 3/8 and 3/9)
Udaipur -- 2 nights (3/10 and 3/11)
Delhi -- (back on 3/12)

We use Ramesh Meena for our driver in India and like him very much. He's a very safe and professional driver and quite pleasant as well. We are using him right now in South India, but he specializes in the Rajasthan area. His contact info is: : rameshindia@live.com or ramesh@indiabycaranddriver.com. Telephone is +91 9829807074. He can give you a daily all inclusive rate for your trip when you contact him.

You might want to look at my trip report from last December for info on Rajasthan -- click on my name and scroll down to my trip reports.

I hope you have a wonderful trip!

I do not need to count Delhi in the 7 days.
I arrive Friday night so would be at the Taj on Saturday. Sunday could leave for Jaipur. I want to see Udaipur and fly back to Delhi on Friday the 12th. I have heard people say to skip Jaipur t o go to Jodpur and then be able to see Ranakpur on the drive to U. Would that be a better trip to see pretty countryside and forts or palaces along the road?

We all agree that driving to Agra after your flight arrives is not a good idea. We don't all agree on what you should do with your time. I didn't like Delhi or Agra much, and like you, prefer gardens, temples and palaces. Check my trip report from Nov-Dec to see our itinerary: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/east-meets-west-indiana-to-india.cfm. We also used Ramesh Meena (above) and found him to be an excellent driver and all-around-good-guy.

Driving from Udaipur to Jaipur is much too long a drive, so flying back to Delhi would be the best option. I loved the drive from Jodhpur to Udaipur once we got into the Aravelli Hills, one of the best parts of our trip.

lisa- in your initial post, you said you arrive 3/4, which is a thursday night, and the reason we were warning you about the Taj being closed. Above you say you arrive Friday night, so I'd recommend taking the Shatabdhi express to Agra on Sat morning..

Just curious...why you booked your trip to India before having an itinerary?

Ref yr post dated 16th Jan, you might be better off to cover Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Ranakpur after Agra during this trip.

You may like to check Rajasthan Tourism website: http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in

You may also check the flwg itinerary:

http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/Make-Your-Trip/Suggested-Itineraries/Desert-Triangle.aspx

Have a nice trip!

Hello,
You can do your trip in 7 nights, In my opinion you can do your trip like this:
Arrival Delhi ( Drive to Agra )
Agra (on the way you can visit Fathepur Sikri )
Pusakar
Udaipur(2 Night)
Jaipur (2 Night)
Delhi (back to airport)
I think it will be good for you and you can visit easily
I had done trip of Rajasthan but it was 21 days trip, I hired a car+driver with an Jaipur based agency, He provide us good service. For any other query do not hesitate to contact me.

Have nice time
Thanks

We also used Ramesh Meena as our driver in India and can't recommend him highly enough; he is safe and reliable and we will use him on our next trip.

Mrs.Marge--Surely you've finished your gala holiday celebrations by now, even if you mark all 30 days of Christmas. We're waiting impatiently...

So true, so true . . . fans want to know.

Please see my response to your other post. With 6 days on the ground, your itin is really too rushed.

Can anyone recommend a hotel in Delhi to spend the night? My flight arrives at 9:45pm. I want to sleep overnight and drive to Agra with Ramesh Sat am.

The international airport is south and a bit west of the city centre, and actually is not far from the Agra Road which is pretty much directly south of the city, so I would recommend that you stay near the airport or on the Agra Road (which is the NH2 highway). Look at hotels in the south or south west (e.g. Gurgaon), obviously avoiding New Delhi or old Delhi hotels and places like the Nizamuddin or Defence colony areas to the north and east

I would look at the Trident Gurgaon, it is on the expensive side but a very nice hotel, see http://www.tridenthotels.com/gurgaon/index.asp. There is a brand new Kempinski hotel about 5 minutes from the airport, see http://www.kempinski.com/en/delhi/Pages/Welcome.aspx, again probably on the expensive side. I think the Country Inn & Suites Gurgaon is a solid little 4 star hotel, rates are usually good, see http://www.countryinns.com/hotels/indcigs.

Other hotels to consider would be the Radisson (there are four, the any of the ones except Noida and “Delhi” would work, the one called the “New Delhi” hotel is not anywhere near downtown New Delhi but is outside the centre and about 10 minutes from the airport, see http://www.radisson.com/). For the New Delhi Radisson avoid rooms which look onto the elevated highway, as they will tend to be noisy. Also look at the Crowne Plaza Gurgaon (http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/) or the Park Hotel in Gurgaon (http://www.theparkhotels.com, The Grand Hotel is quite close to the airport and is pretty nice (was originally a Hyatt) see http://www.thegrandnewdelhi.com (There is also a Grand Hotel Intercontinental in Connaught Circus in downtown New Delhi, so don't confuse the two.) The Uppals Orchid Hotel is pretty good and a good location for the airport/Agra road as well, but rooms can be uneven IMO, but see http://www.theorchidhotelnewdelhi.com/.

For a budget hotel, you might try the Centaur which is basically at the airport, I have never been inside, and its owned and operated by Air India, which may not be the greatest endorsement, but see http://www.centaurhotels.com/igi/. For one night, probably anything is liveable.

On the Agra Road, a poster here with a similar plan as yours was recently was considering the Claridges Atrium, which I have not been to, but might be worth considering, see http://www.claridges-hotels.com/atrium/index.asp. The only issue there is that it is longer drive at night to get there, which after a long flight and then Immigration, baggage claim, etc may mean you are not at your hotel until midnight. If you stay in Gurgaon, you would be at your hotel a bit earlier. But then you would have a bit of a longer drive the next day to reach the Agra Road. So it’s up to you as to when you would rather spend a bit more time in the car.

ok...so after reading the posts and Lonely Planet and Rough Guide I wonder what you think about this.....I skip Jaipur. Drive to Agra 3/6 Sat morning. Stay near the airport and rive ti Agra. By the time I navigate the train station etc I could be close to Agra by road. I see the Taj Sat sunset and Sun sunrise. Sunday 3/7 drive to Udaipur and have Mon and Tuesday there then drive Wed to Jpdphur taking in Ranakpur and Kumbalgarh. Wed nt in Jodhpur. Thursday tour the fort etc then fly back to DEL Friday.
I meet a group there then travel to Haidikan to the Babaji ashram for 10 days. There I can rest and see things around there. I will have a couple of days in DEL Fri 3/12 and 13 plus the 28th readying to fly back to the US.
My reasoning is that I prefer smaller cities. In Thailand one day in Bangkok is enough for me, then I'm ready to go to Chang and see things outside the city. In Egypt one day or so in Cairo. I prefer Luxor and the environs for the sites. What do you think of this scenario.
Thanks for your help.

The drive from Agra to Udaipur would be about 12 hours. . Again, you should not be on Indian roads at night, so you may as well split it into two days with an overnight in Jaipur

Also, none of these - Agra, Udaipur, or Jodhpur - are even close to being 'small cities. i think Jodhpur would be the smallest, at about a million people.

If you are still looking for a hotel, recommend the Amber Hotel which is just off the Ring Road and Mathura Road (the highway to Agra) intersection. Very convenient to start your drive to Agra. Also very close to the Lotus Temple so you should stop by before heading to Agra. It is moderately priced (compared to the big names), very nice, has good recommendations (including mine), and they will arrange an airport pickup if you wish.
http://www.theamber.in/

I agree you would be hard-pressed to do the drive all in daylight, and I agree even more strongly that you don’t want to be on an Indian road at night, it’s rather dangerous. But my big issues is that IMO you don’t want to do a drive of that length in one go. 5-6 hours is the most I really can take in one day on an India road. Indian roads are not smooth 4-lane superhighways, are generally not in great shape physically, and there are huge numbers of trucks, not to mention bullock carts, camels, motorcycles, buses and a very large number of people walking along the roads. There is a lot of swerving, braking and honking involved in the process. Much of the oncoming traffic will actually be coming at you in YOUR lane trying to pass others. Expect a lot of near-death experiences. Add darkness and a tired driver to this mix and you can imagine the result. 12 hours would be a really long time in the car.

I would instead suggest that you take a night train from Agra to either Jodhpur or Udaipur (time to either is about the same, between 10-12 hours depending on the train you take). This will save you the drive, give you an extra day in Agra, and give you an interesting experience as well. It will also be far cheaper than hiring a car and driver on your own (you can go first class for US$36). There are also day train options if you want to see the countryside, but the journey will take most of the day (esp to Udaipur), and with your limited time a day train may not be the best use of it.

I think Jodhpur and Udaipur are very interesting cities in dramatic settings. But just FYI, Agra has about 1.5 million people, Jodhpur has a population of just over a million, and Udaipur has a population about the same as Washington DC (500,000) but that is still larger than Zurich. So, don’t expect a village or anything. Or course they may seem to be small compared to Bangkok and Cairo, which are really megacities.

Where is Haidikan?

I guess this would be TOO obvious a solution to the first part of your journey?

Kingfisher Red IT4367 Delhi (DEL) - Agra (AGR)
06 Mar Sat 11:40 arr. 06 Mar Sat 12:40
INR 3,249.00

www.flykingfisher.com/

lol lol lol.

Dunno why, but I get the feeling you haven't been to India before. So, I'd be looking at this for your first night, to reduce mega-stress, taxi scenes at the airport and meltdown - Delhi airport can be chaos, believe me:

http://www.lemontreehotels.com/

look, I've done it for you:
https://reservations.synxis.com/xbe/rez.aspx?Hotel=19829&Chain=7710&start=1&child=0&rooms=1

you will take the Lemon Tree deluxe package. It's at the bottom of the list. Why? because it contains return airport transfers. Why would you want those? Because you will be eaten alive if you walk outside the airport WITHOUT a transfer booked. Even the pre-paid guys will probably have NO idea where the hotel is - or ANY hotel, for that matter - you don't need the grief, jetlagged, overwhelmed and confused.

As a matter of interest, why do you feel you have to go to Agra first? Do you have a particular need to plonk yourself in the middle of the most carnivorous city for newbies on your first full day in India? You could fly to Udaipur first and work your way back to Delhi from there.

Now that we know a little more about you [ashram etc] I think you might enjoy this website:

www.mahindrahomestays.com/Pages/home.aspx

Here's a way of staying in your chosen places, having lovely local people to talk to, show you around, great food, none of the inner-city tourist ghetto and none of the relentless horror that CAN hit a first-time traveler in the first few days.

If you went to Udaipur first, I've just realised you can fly on the 5th. giving you an extra day. Delhi ain't a good start to India in my opinion, particularly given your stated needs: 'I love nature and would prefer smaller, less crowded places to big cities...'

Here's your flight:
Kingfisher Red IT4305 Delhi (DEL) - Udaipur (UDR)
05 Mar Fri 09:30 arr 11:10

INR 3,499.00

as you see, it's WAY better value than the Agra flight.

Let me know your thinking thus far and I'll make some other suggestions. You won't see it all, but in the time you have, there are some other really great options. Don't lock in on staying the obvious places. There are places you can stay that give you access to the [ho hum] tourist sites, but don't mean you have to STAY in them. You CAN have your cake and eat it too - but only if you stop listening to the voice of reason and start thinking outside the box.

I get the feeling you'd be happier in the rural areas.

Some idea of what you're expecting to pay for accomodation would be a help. In places like Delhi, the hotel prices will take your breath away. Cicerone's suggestions are, as always, great but may be in the wrong league. Lemon Tree is a cheap option [for Delhi] - and they are a damn good chain. Highly recommended.

Hotel nr airport: Check Hotel Saptagiri nr New Delhi airport.Recommended as a good place, very near IGIA, by India-based travel agent I trust totally. Definitely NOT the Centaur--rated by Tripadvisor as one of the world's dirtiest hotels!

Thanks for all the help. the reason I feel I need to go to Agra first is that the Taj is closed on Fridays. I arrive 9:45 Friday night. I wish I could go on from there as it will feel like 9:45 am on my body clock. I sleep well (thank you Ambien) on planes and am used to intn'l travel. True I have never been to India and true I was much happier in the temples in Sukothai (sp) Thailand that in Bangkok. I love the countryside and am not at all opposed at thinking outside the box. I love it!
So, i arrive Friday nt I think I need to go to Agra first because the Taj is closed on Fridays. I have to be back in DEL Fri at 7pm to meet the group to go to Haidakhan (I'll find out where it is)All is know is that it is at the base of Mt Kailash is all I know. It is the Babaji ashram. I am going for the Navaratri -Divine Mother - festival March 16-24.
so if I did the Taj on the way back (Friday) when I need to be back to DEL it would be closed.
It would be great to overnight train to U. or Jodpur unless you have an out of the box suggestion.
I can fly back to DEL the 12th to meet my group.
I would like to keep room costs below $100 USD if I can. I do not need luxury but I would like quaint and clean. The homestay website looks great. I love b and b's.
Can't wait to hear back from you. I'll be online everyday now. I was away for five days. Thanks!

Hi lisa, glad you're back. I thought you might an out-of-the-box kinda person. lol.

O.K. fair 'nuff re Agra. May as well get that out of the way, if you must. First, what do you think about the Kingfisher option to Agra? And the Lemon Tree? You can save the $$ later on in your trip. That first night ain't the one to try and economise - but if you feel you must, better shout out now. Already it's booked out on the [incorrect] date I dialled up for you.

I don't know Calinurse's suggestion but that doesn't mean it ain't perfectly fine, or the cheaper of Cicerone's ones. I'm just suggesting a place with multiple recco's in here and a chain I totally trust.

I get the feeling you might be feeling beholden to the driver you've arranged. Don't. Plans change hourly in India. Rameesh will be used to this. If you are locked in on him as driver for your week, then everything is different. So, better let us know.

I need to know that you've looked on a map. Somehow, I'm not entirely sure you have. In fact, after this post: Jan 29, 10 at 11:17am - I'm sure you haven't.

I also want to know, other than your completely contradictory statement at the top of this post:
'...I've been told to go to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur. My interests are palaces, gardens and temples. I love nature and would prefer smaller, less crowded places to big cities...',
what research you have done.

'Cos,

'Cos, if you want to go to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, even on travelaw's reasonable itinerary, you're gonna be driving PAST the nature, PAST the 'smaller, less crowded places', PAST the really cool 'palaces, gardens and temples', PAST the wondrous rural areas, all in your headlong dash to get to the overcrowded tourist places, full of every hustler in creation, all intent on hassling YOU.

So, better decide.

'...I have to be back in DEL Fri at 7pm to meet the group to go to Haidakhan (I'll find out where it is) All is know is that it is at the base of Mt Kailash...'

Maybe you should look here, too:
http://www.babajicalling.com

Gawd, lisa. Good Karma ain't gonna get you very far in India. Let me introduce you to Google Search.
www.google.co.in

HI again, Lisa,
If you want to start your trip to New Delhi in a homestay NEAR the airport(15 minutes drive) checkoutthe website for Chhoti Haveli.They will send a driver for you. oth that, and Hotel Saptagiri, are well within your budget.
If you havent already, please do yourself a favor and check out the Indiamike webiste. It is absolutely loaded with grat ideas about just--you guessed it--India, and you'll find most recommendations are for people on a budget that favors lower priced accomodations than some of the recs you'll get on Fodors for places like the Taj and Oberoi 5 star hotels! Also, do check tripadvisor for recommendations in the cities you are going to.
if I were planning thetrip yo have in mind, i'd get feedback from an excellent experienced travel agent in India. Why? Because you tell them what you want, where you want, price you want, and they can help you plan it all.

It's not necessary to economize the first night in DEL. As for the flight to Agra...isn't it a hassle to get to the airport an hour plus early, go through security etc than to get on a train or get a driver if I am on the road to Agra anyway?
Don't blow my hiar back...just askin' ;~)
An overnight train on Sunday nt from Agra to ?? would be fine.
I am not tied into the driver and would love an out of the box trip NOT! going past the nature, cool palaces, temples etc. you mentioned above. I'm open and so very appreciative of your expertise.
As for the ashram, all the travel is handled by the group I'm going with so did not need to research that part. Best, Lisa

dog.....loved the babajicalling website. It was wonderful. Nice info on the DEL airport scenario. I definitely want someone to meet me at the airport and minimal hassle sleeping the first nt. Wish I could work it out to go to Agra at the end but can not. Awaiting the next post. Thanks!

Well thanks to dogster I see that you are going to Haldwani in the State of Uttarakhand, north east of Delhi. (When I Googled Haidakhan, I only found the ashram in Colorado, which I was fairly sure was not on your itin). I feel compelled to say that you might want to toss the Rajasthan itin and head up there instead, as that appears to be very close to the Jim Corbett National Park where you can see tigers and other wildlife, and you could also go to Rikisesh, one of my favourite “smaller” places. This whole area is much less touristed and you might find it fits your interests better. (Not as many palaces, but chock-a-block with temples and lots of beautiful countryside.) If you did this area, you could meet your friends in Haldwani, no need to meet them in Delhi.

Damn good idea, Cicerone. 10/10 for lateral thinking!
I'll be back.

Remember lisa - you know where you're flying from - I don't. You know whether you'll have jet lag, I don't. You know how experienced a traveler you are - until your last-ish post, I hadn't the faintest idea. You're an experienced international traveler, you say - so was I, and THEN I went to India. lol lol lol.

All I'm trying to do is ease your way in and look after you from my Uncle Dogster distance for that first, potentially mind-altering 24 hours when India can eat a budget traveler alive.

So, in the midst of your wonderful Gung-Ho-ery [and, never misunderstand me, I'm direct but I'm on your side here] you'll need to consider all the above. You can arrive in Agra in as many pieces as you choose. You can walk there, if you think that'll be more fun. lol.

On the assumption that you want to get to Agra refreshed, that the purpose is to SEE Agra and the Taj, as opposed to stumbling exhausted from one hustler to the next, taking pictures to remind you that you were there, then I'm suggesting the easiest way.

I've never caught the Shatabdi Express there, so I don't know the departure time. I know there's a 6 a.m. So, you could get up at 4.00 a.m. to catch that... which completely defeats my exercise. Others will advise you.

Remember, you'll be carrying your bags. If you're smart you'll arrive at the railway station some time before it leaves anyway. So you have to get from your hotel to the station before that. Then, when you arrive in Agra, what are you going to do? Run the gauntlet of taxi-drivers? Where are you going to stay? How are you gonna see the Taj? Just rock up, run the gauntlet, stand in a queue...? You can, it's perfectly easy. By the time you get there, if you have jet-lag and no sleep, you'll be too exhausted to see it.

If you want to go over all this again, into infinity, I suggest you read these, amongst many, many other posts:

www.fodors.com/community/asia/car-train-or-plane-from-delhi-to-agra.cfm
www.fodors.com/community/asia/delhi-to-agra-transportation-options.cfm

let me introduce you to the Fodor's search engine. See the little empty box up the top right?

But lisa, we're still here, 36 posts later, faffing around about the first 12 hours of your trip...

All the options are fine. Just choose one. Zillions of people take the train, equally as new to India as you are. So do that. There are lots of trains to Agra. You can go express or you can stop 400 times on the way. You can do it in 2.00 hours or 4 - or 10 if you're keen.

But we really haven't made much progress on the rest of your adventure, have we?

You could choose not go to Agra at ALL, follow Cicerone's excellent suggestion above and wiggle right out of the straight-jacket you've put yourself in. All of India is amazing. Whatever you think is most fun. Whatever you think will prepare you best for Babaji.

You will be there in exactly 30 days.

I know. I realized how soon it is today and I am awash with joy. India is going to be as big an assault for me as anyone on the planet. As I have said, I dislike crowds, touts all of it but I know in my heart I am supposed to go there. So I will trust....and depend on your expert guidance you so graciously are giving to me. I have spent so much time on the first 36 hrs because! of all the reasons you just mentioned. I feel I want to see U. because of the lakes, I've read Jodphur has the best fort and I was hoping it would be a little less frenetic than Jaipur.
I meet my group in Delhi Friday evening the 12th and have Sat there. We head to Haldwani on Sunday and spend the night there, then jeep to Haidakhan for days. I will have a day (Sat the 27th and Sun the 28th) and a half in DEL before I fly back to Austin on Sun 12:25 am! to Austin via Chicago.
Soo - the nature trip to the north has some appeal but I really do want to see the majesty of the forts. Not sure I need to see more than two or three...... -AND- this all began when I was in the thrid grade and read "Road to Agra" I have held it near my heart ever since and it is the highlight of the trip for me. The ashram idea got presented a year ago and solidified me finally booking my ticket to go to India.
So I must do the Taj and will then have Sunday the 7th- Friday the 12 th when I have to meet my group in DEL. Sorry it has taken 35 posts to get here. I have learned an immense amount in the journey. After realizing how aggressive Agra is I would like to see the Taj Sat at sunset and Sun at sunrise and then I a open to leaving Agra by train or plane so to have M-TH to sight see. Sorry if I am being redundant. Suggestions now?

Oh bless you. If it wasn't at least ten times your age, ugly as sin and on the other side of the world I'd hug you with all the affection an old Uncle Dog is permitted. I can feel your excitement!

But don't think for a moment I'm an expert at anything. Cicerone's bredth of accurate information far surpasses mine. All I know about is the giant HIT of India and just how much it can knock you around. I don't know what Cicerone does or how she gets to know so much, all I see is her generosity and razor-sharp grip of the details. So give thanks to her, more than me.

But I reckon she and I travel differently some of the time. I bet I'm naughtier than Cicerone. She may not be an afficionado of the low-life hell-holes I've been known to frequent - and have written about in here at [too much] length. Probably I'm a better advisor on how to get yourself out of ridiculous situations you've got yourself into. One day you'll get time to click on my name and read - but not now. This is about your dreams.

Indianapearl will be reading, Mrs. Marge, LisaM, lcuy, Jaya and the esteemed j.p singh will be watching over you too. They'll chime in when you need them.

For some reason, the complete, open-hearted, dreamer lunacy of your voyage appeals to me. Whatever India chooses to give you, it will. I can no more influence events any more than you can.

So, you NEED to go to Agra, first up. Now I understand why. Well, to start with, throw away all ideas presented thus far and GO on 'The Road To Agra'.

This is simple. Who cares how long it takes? That's not the dream. Have Rameesh pick you up in Delhi in the morning and drive there. Simple.

You are right to hesitate while we talked other options. You KNEW your heart - of course, till your last post, I could only intuit it.

As you aso intuited, this is your KEY decision. Everything follows from there. It seems to me that fate has provided your solution. Rameesh is your man. He comes highly regarded and recommended from at least two posters in here whose words I know to be true. Travelaw, for example, would have personally dismembered him, had he not been up to scratch.

Whaddya think so far? You'll need to lock Rameesh in very soon. No, you don't have to lock in a schedule - just him and his car. A smart cookie would lock in a price. Travelaw is in lock-down in Iraq so can't reply, but I bet Mrs. Marge is looking in. Let her advise you.

It's 3.00 a.m. in Bangkok, when I am now. I have to change hotels tomorrow, so if you're on line now, get back fast before I crash. You'll KNOW, the minute you read these words, whether my latest thoughts are right.

If you think they are, then scroll back and look very, very carefully at travelaw's schedule. Read the appropriate parts of this, if you haven't already:

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/trip-report-india-travelawg.cfm

Then look carefully at the Mahindra Homestay website. I think it's perfect. Your intuition will guide you to the right places to stay. Follow it.

Austin??! Austin??! My home away from home . . . (even though I live in the wilds of darkest Indiana). Once you return, let's reconnoiter and arrange a dinner so we can talk about India. We can invite bonnieheather who's also an Indiaphile (she and her spouse live near Austin).

Here's the deal -- many Fodorites have used Ramesh (Ram) Meena as our driver, so he comes highly recommended -- Linda (?), travelaw, bonnieheather, MrsMarge, indianapearl, lisasiegel, and liv42day are all fans. All of us have given him even a superb evaluation. Travelaw has used him twice. Don't know if he is available in your time frame, but if so, book him NOW!!!

I enjoyed seeing the Taj, but it was a colossal pain in the patoot. I'd never do it again. Others would dispute that evaluation. I am old. You sound like you are young, so perhaps you have a different stress level than I. But there are so many glorious things to see in India that you won't be disappointed, no matter where you go.

If I had to choose which three cities in Rajasthan Jodhpur, Udaipur, and Jaipur), I'd choose Jodhpur because of the fort and Ossian (and this is with respect to your limited time). They're all wonderful in their own way, but since you so little time,you've got to make a decision.

Thanks. Well, nowI am thrown that you suggest to take the car. I was prepared to take the train. Ramesh is planning to pick me up in Agra to go to Jaipur but since I have read so much about Jaipur being so crowded and aggressive so I thought about passing over it and going to U. in which case It seemsI should fly ude to the distance. I am enthralled with Travelaw's description of the drive from Jodphur to U. through the Aravelli hills. It sounds beautiful.
Maybe I should fly to U. Sunday afternoon spend S, M, T nts there Wed drive to Jodphur and do the fort there then fly back to DEL on Friday afternoon. I would still like to hear from dog about the places I would be going PAST on the way to Jaipur, U. and Jodphur. I could do more or less with Ramesh but I do have him booked now to get me in Agra but would it be best to fly or overnight train to U. or Jodphur? Thanks!!

Hi Indiana! I would love to meet you! It's a date. It seems I was advised that Jai, U. and Jod were to much to do in my time frame and that I would spend all the time in the car. Sooo yes I have to decide. I wrote above about the Taj...I HAVE to go. So I can leave Sunday afternoon and fly back to DEL on Friday afternoon the 12th. Soo how to do Sun noonish til Friday is the question. I will read about Ossia.
Waiting for Dog to tell about the nature, temples and palaces I would be missing as I travel to thee bigger cities.
Sooo much to thin about.

You cannot fly from Agra to anywhere but Delhi, so I am a bit confused by your comment that you might “fly to U on Sunday”. You could not fly from Agra on Sunday to anywhere but Delhi. To get to Udaipur or Jodhpur you would have to go via Delhi, and you could not make any connections in the same day, you would have to do an overnight in Delhi, which defeats the whole purpose, IMO. At least not on Kingfisher Airlines. I have not look at Indian Airlines, as their website drives me nuts (as does the airline).

I don’t think Indianapearl was suggesting that you drive from Agra to Udaipur, I think she was perhaps suggesting that you use Ramesh for other portions of the trip, like the drive from Udaipur to Jodhpur. I don’t believe that Indianapearl has done the drive from Agra non-stop to Udaipur – I don’t think anyone here has – and given that it would take 10-12 hours, I think most of us on this site would advise against doing that trip by car.

Otherwise, the suggestion would be to take a night train to Udaipur or to Jodhpur, and then drive between those two and fly back to Delhi from wherever you end up last. You could of course stick with your original plan of driving from Agra to Jaipur. From there you could fly to Udaipur, or drive to Jodhpur. But if you include Jaipur, you would have to give up either Jodhpur or Udaipur, IMO. Between Jaipur and Jodhpur, I would tend to agree that Jodhpur gives the most wow! impact in terms of its fort looming over the city and the blue houses. Jaipur’s fort is quite a bit outside of town and does not dominate the city in any way. Jaipur however has the excellent City Palace museum and other interesting bits like its bazaar in the old town area.

The road between Jaipur and Jodhpur is actually almost all 4-lane highway and while it offers some nice views of the desert landscape, it’s a bit boring, IMO. (Although there will be people and animals along it of course, it is still India; you just won’t be on a small road going through villages.) And you don’t have a lot of time to take side trips off road to see small villages. It is possible to take a train in almost the same time, and perhaps a late afternoon train would work best for you, as you can take a train in the dark while you could not drive (this is if you decide to skip Udaipur and do Jaipur and Jodhpur).

The road between Jodhpur and Udaipur is a bit more interesting (although parts of it are also highway), and you can stop at Kumbhalgarh fort and the Ranakpur Jain temple complex on the way. There are some small wildlife areas as well. An overnight stop somewhere along the road in one of the more remote areas might be interesting. But again, you will have quite a limited amount of time. Read you guidebooks and look at maps. You will have to plan your time carefully. Note that it is possible to see Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur as part of a long day trip from Udaipur, so you do not have to do the drive from Jodhpur just to see them if flying between Udaipur and Jodhpur works better for you time wise, or if you want to skip Jodhpur.

Just to clarify, there is ONE lake in the city of Udaipur. While in a very lovely setting with the city and hills surrounding it, and of a decent size, it is not very large like Como or anything. The lake I think at this point is about half full, but as you would not have seen it as its fullest point, it will I am sure still look quite pretty to you. There are some much smaller lakes in the area, but not any very close to Udaipur. The Arvalli hills are indeed beautiful.

I completely agree that for most tourists on a typical 2-week trip through Rajasthan, getting to Agra can be a pain, esp as most people only want to spend one day there. So it is a lot of travel for a very short time. Whether it is “worth” it or not is up to the beholder, I would say. I happen to like Agra a lot, but many people don’t, which I think is a factor of them not spending enough time in the city. Most people in fact like the Taj Mahal itself. I find the touts funny actually.

hi lisa
here is very good plan for you
arrived in delhi march 5th
6th march take flight to jodhpur
7th march drive to udaipur on the way ranakpur
8th march udaipur
9th march drive to jaipur
10 march jaipur
11th march drive to agra
12th march drive to delhi

I agree with Cicerone about not driving from Agra to Udaipur. We drove from U. to Jaipur, but stopped the night in Shapura Bagh, about half way. The drive from Jodhpur to Udaipur is more scenic through the Aravelli Hills. The drive from U. to Jaipur is not so scenic. We flew from Amritsar (Punjab)to Delhi, then connected to Jodhpur and arrived there mid afternoon. Since you've booked Ram already, perhaps he has some suggestions of routes to take.

I have to disengage from this at the moment. Look at a map. Decide whether you want Ram or not. Either you do, or you don't. Choose. Everything follows from there.

Delhibelly-can't do Agra at the end (12th) because the Taj is closed on Fri so no sunrise possibility.
I think I will take the train to Agra on the 6th Sat. Taj at sunset
Sun - sunrise at the Taj then overnight train to U.
Mon/Tues U.
Wed drive to Jodphur seeing Ranakpur and Kumbahlgarh
Thurs Jodphur see the fort
Fri- 1/2 day in Jodphur then fly to Delhi.

I will use Travelaw's hotel suggestions or dog's for the mahindra's.
Questions-should I engage Ram on Monday in U. or Tuesday? Or wait til Wed for the drive to Jodphur? Would I need him in Jodphur for Thursday seeing the fort? Of course to the airport on Friday.
Dog you mentioned passing by nature, palaces and temples going to the three cities. Want to expound?

Whew- thanks you guys! Any

Lisa: just how do imagine Ram is going to get from Agra to Udaipur? Are you going to stick him and his car in the luggage rack?

Do you imagine he's a magic taxi, able to materialise from thin air in any city you choose when you want him? Do you think he'll just hang around for days, waiting for you? Maybe he will - but you'll be paying for it.

Do you understand that Ram takes tourists on 7/10/14 day trips as their designated car and driver? This is his business.

Do you understand that when you engage Ram in Agra you will be paying his daily rate from then on till Jodhpur airport, then for his return trip to the pick-up point?

Do you understand that when you use Ram as transfer for a morning flight to Delhi that you'll still be paying his daily rate? Which means, lisa, that you'll be paying 3,500 ish for a transfer that will cost you 200 in a taxi.

No, you don't. Cancel him now and give him the chance to find some proper business.

No, I'm not going to expound on 'nature, palaces and temples going to the three cities'. You'll be on a train from Delhi to Agra, you'll be on a train from Agra to Udaipur - at NIGHT. As for Udaipur to Jodhpur - well, I just can't be bothered.

I do wish you well - but you've reduced me to a gibbering wreck. I just have to jump out my 14th floor hotel window now.

Splat!

This is a message from the concierge at the Arnoma Hotel in Bangkok:

A Mr. Dogster, just before he expired on the footpath outside the hotel, whispered this single word:

'Lisa-arrr-ggg-h-h-h-h...'

Then he went into convulsions and died.

Let us hope that Glenda The Good Witch of the East will bring you back to life . . .

I had already checked with Ram. He is fine with picking me up in U. on Mon or Tues. My inquiry was if it was wise to engage Ram while in U. or find a more local driver for the drive to Jodphur. My considerastion is for him as well as myself.
Is it useful to have a driver for a couple of days in U. or while in Jodphur?
I was thinking not but wanted to ask since the most pervasive thing I read on all the posts is near death experiences in all forms and facets while traveling in India.
Dog you confuse me. At 3 am in Bangkok you wax philosophical decidedly from your heart and 24 hrs later you are decidedly not. Have you had your hormones checked? You chastised me for being anal about the first 36 hrs of my trip and then you realized WHY I was asking those questions. Exhaustion/Taj closed on Fridays. I was listening to what was said and evolving my questions per your advice.
Now I simply want to know if I need Ram or if I should look for another driver for the U. to Jod trip? I am a woman alone and all I read is that India is another planet, unlike anyplace I might have encountered in third world countries before. I like car travel for the freedom it allows but it seems that the time frame combined with the distances involved predicate a mixture of transportation modes to turn it out like the dream trip I imagine.
So now if you would like to impart your most helpful wisdom I would be grateful. Namaste.

IP--I don't think it's the rosy-cheeked forces of good that miraculously return Mr.Dogster to us...

I used two different drivers in India and Ram was the second one. I can tell you that he is a great driver and I felt very safe with him. I would use him for the entire trip as he is very respectful and helpful as well. He is used to driving all over Rajisthan and is familiar with Jodphur and Udaipur. It will save you the hassle of finding rickshaws or taxis because you will need them in both cities and travelling alone i think it will be a bonus to have a driver that you are comfortable with and can leave your things in the car with confidence.

Marija: Perhaps a good neurologist???

ok. so I will book Ram to pick me up in U. after the overnight train from Agra and have him drive me to sightsee in U. Mon and Tues then drive to Jodphur on Wed. sightsee there and drive to the airport on Friday.

I am trying to find a train from DEL to Agra mid to late morning 3/6. The schedules I have found only leave in the pm except the very early am trains. I know I have seen others comment on leaving later in the am. Also, I have looked for advice on how to use the train website. Thanks,
Lisa

Are you using http://www.indianrail.gov.in ? If I go to "Trains Between Important Stations" and chose New Delhi, Agra Cantt and "all classes" I see plenty of trains throughout the day.

I agree that the India railway site is a pain to use. Here are some trains I have found. I only listed the faster trains, there are some that take like 5 hours or more, I don’t think you really want those. Most of these go out of Nizamuddin Station in southeast Delhi, so perhaps you were searching using New Delhi station as the departure station:

2648 Kongu Express, departs Nizamuddin at 8:40 am arrives Agra Cantt 11:30 am
2808 Samata Express, departs Nizamuddin at 8:40 am arrives Agra Cantt 11:30 am
0478 Nizamuddin Pune Winter Special, departs Nizamuddin at 8:55 am arrives Agra Cantt 11:50 am
2618 Mangala Lakshadweep Express, departs Nizamuddin at 9:20 am arrives Agra Cantt 12:20 pm
1078 Jhelum Express, departs New Delhi 10:25 am arrive Agra Cant 1:50 pm
2626 Kerala Express, departs Nizamuddin 11:30 am, arrives Agra Cantt 2:25 pm

You might also see if Indiamike.com gives train times, I know it is pretty helpful with advice on using the India railway site. If you want to book, then you may have no choice then to use the official railway site. I often try to get my hotel to buy me a ticket, so if you are overnighting at a hotel in Delhi first, you might try that.

My logic was to find which train I would leave on and then ask for referrals for hotels nearby. The 2626 from Nizamuddin looks good so does anyone know of a decent hotel near Niza station? One that has airport transfers would be good. I will only be sleeping there and heading out first thing so a good 3 star should be alright. I will look back at the posts and start looking for a hotel in Agra.
I have been reading Indiamike but he links to india rail site.
When I tried Thursdays suggestion I only came up with two trains early am and the rest later pm. What am I doing wrong? I had tried the same thing before.
Is there a big difference in hotels near New Delhi or Niza stations? Thanks.

Did you tell it "any class"?

Thursday- thank you. It says first class is not available. Does that typically mean it is full or the train does not have 1st class cars? I'll take the 2808 Samta Express (11:30 am). Do you know how early should one plan to arrive at the train station before departure?

No, on that screen it means that the train doesn't have it. You're taking a day train, you don't need first class (and 2AC is actually fine for night trains) - see seat61.com for loads of info on Indian trains and classes, including pix.

The things you need to do at the station are to find the right platform, and the seating chart for your train, which should help you know where to stand. I'd probably get there about 15 minutes ahead for the train to Agra, but for a first timer 30 minutes might be safer. If you're too early you can enjoy the chaos around you.

Any hotel suggestion near Nizamuddin station for just overnight 11:30pm til 10 am before I catch the train?

I booked all my trains on 'Cleartrip.com' and it worked out really well for about the same price. You just have to remember that you cant book until the train stations are open, India time.
I had no problem just showing the conductor my cleartip print out of my reservations.

At Cleartrip the classes 1A,2A and 3A say General waitlist for the overnight from Agra to Udaipur on March 7. I wouldn't want SL class right?
Ugh...it'll throw my timing off if I can't take the overnight train on the 7th.

you are not spending the night on the train so it wont be that long of a trip. am i reading it right that you are going March 4? I see lots of space on cleartrip for March 4th.
Are you sure you are looking when India rail is open? not sure where you are located but google what time is it in India and try your search between 7Am and 6PM or something India time.

sorry, I was looking at your earlier post and thinking you wanted Delhi to Agra.

Well, tourists do ride SL, but they tend to be backpackers. Did you read what seat61.com had to say about it? I didn't do SL, but if it really messed up my schedule I'd might go for it - but I don't stay in posh hotels, either. From www.indianrail.gov.in it looks like there's only one person on the wait list for 1AC, so it might be worth going for SL with 1AC as backup and hoping to move up. You may also be able to avoid the wait list by using the tourist quota - see seat61.com for info on that.

I want to take the train from Del to Agra leaves at 11:30. It does not come up with first class seats but has 2A second class seats. Seat61 says those are benches that fold out to sleeper.
The photo doesn't look very comfortable.
Any idea if this is the class to choose?
Thanks

If it doesn't have 1AC, 2AC is the best there is. I don't remember it being particularly uncomfortable, and how long is the ride, anyway? And you're going to be too busy checking out the view outside, and your fellow-passengers inside, to notice.

Hi Lisa, For a place to stay near Nizamuddin Railway Stn:
www.elevendelhi.com
Only 1/2 kilometer from the Station. I havent stayed there-- read about it on the about.com India website i the discussion of Delhi Bed and Breakfasts.

Thanks Cali. Now cleartrip says there is only 3A seat available on the train I want. Is that pretty awful?

It's only for three hours. When 3AC is configured for sleeping it's a bit short on head room, and a bit bleak. But you're going to be traveling in the middle of the day. You'll have a reserved seat on a rather hard leather bench.

You may want to take your own food and water - I ate the veggie thali served on the trains with no ill effects, but I'd been traveling in Asia for a while by then.

I managed to get a 2A seat. Yeah. Do you know a hotel to recommend?
I will arrive 9:45 pm so will only be sleeping in the hotel then leaving for Agra the next morning.
Would I book airport pick up through the hotel? Should I get the hotel to book transport to New Delhi station for the train?
All I have left to plan now is the hotel in Udaipur. Any recomendations?

I don't remember where I stayed in Agra - you might want to start a new thread with a more specific title for hotel recs. I believe you should book pick up through your hotel, but I doubt you'll have any trouble getting a taxi to the train station.

You don't have to stay in a hotel. You may be better off staying in a homestay in East Nizammudin - close to the station. Try Eleven Guesthouse- 11, Nizamuddin (East), New Delhi 110013, India (Owner Ajay) Quiet guesthouse had excellent, clean and well-appointed rooms and bathrooms. Directly opposite Khan Khanna’s tomb. Good reviewson Tripadvisor. Provides rate sheets for rickshaws to various places. Free internet, TV and bottled water. A shared kitchen for guests to read, use the internet or to make a cup of tea at any time of the day. Taxi to airport Rs400.

I have my trip all booked now. Thanks for all the help. My question now is if it is advisable for me to sightsee in Udaipur for the first day on my own or get a guide from the hotel (Mewar Haveli). I plan to do City Palace and in town sights.

I've lost track of where you're staying in Udaipur, but City Palace is right on the lake front and there's a Hindu temple a short walk away from it. There's a ghat right adjacent to the Jagat Niwas where you can get a boat to toodle around Lake Pichola. You'll need a car to go to the Monsoon Palace.

In U. I am staying at Mewar Haveli which is on the lake. Is it advisable to grab a taxi to the palace and walk to the temple or is it better to get a guide at the hotel before venturing out for the day. It's my 1st trip to India.
I am going to have some salwar kameez made for my trip. Any suggestions on tailors in U.?
Also, I am staying at the Gateway in Agra. Should I arrange for a guide to go to the Taj from here or wait until I check in at the hotel? I will check in and head straight over to the Taj for sunset and want to go back for sunrise the next day.

Why do you want a guide for the Taj? If you do really want one, there are loads waiting outside, and you'll also find people inside wanting to tell you where to stand for the best photos.

Mewar Haveli is on which part of the lake -- east, west, north, south? The majority of sites are on the east end of the lake. If you have a guidebook, check a map to see the locations. The tourist area around the lake is relatively small.

Don't know tailors in U. I got my salwar kameez in Jaipur. Whomever you choose, go first thing, select the fabric, get measured, then pick them up before you leave. If Ram is your driver, ask him to recommend someone. I'm trying to figure out where he joins you in your trip. He's an excellent resource, so don't hesitate to ask him for advice.

You should be able to get a guide at the Gateway or you can pick one up at the Taj itself. The place is swarming with them. If it will reassure you, tell the Gateway in advance that you want a guide pronto when you arrive. By the time we got to Agra, we were tired of guides, so didn't use one. Everything you need to know about the Taj has been written about extensively in guidebooks. It's a beautiful, but uncomplicated in its function.

Remember that there are no gas powered vehicles within a certain distance of the Taj. If you get a guide and driver at the hotel, the guide will stand in line and get your ticket for you, then find an autorickshaw to take you (and him) to the gate.

People keep telling me not to walk on the street alone. They say the beggars etc will surround me and it'll be overwhelming. This came from a woamn who lived in Bangalore and another who traveled there last year. I am very independent but do not want to be swarmed. Never having been there I am trying to figure it all out. Ram is supposed to pick me up in U. I was just wondering if I need him on the first day while sightseeing in U. and getting clothes made.
The second day I would like to go out into the countryside ans the third we drive to Jodhpur. When we arrive Jodhpur do I need Ram to drive me around the city. The hotel Ratan Villas will take me to the airport the last day I am there.
Hope this is not too confusing. I'm trying to figure out how many days i need to use Ram.
I would just as soon not use a guide unless it is necessary or advisable. Thanks!

The ability to say "no" does have survival value in India, lol! Willingness to bargain is useful, too.

I found Agra easily the most annoying place I visited in India when it came to badgering from rickshaw drivers, would-be guides and people selling things, but I walked the streets anyway (Rajasthan in general was second most annoying). I did hire a rickshaw driver for one day, which reduced the hassles from the other drivers.

Still don't where your hotel in U. is located. Ram can drive you to various places in U., but he's not a bodyguard. You'll have to fend for yourself once you're out of the car.

Ratan Vilas is located a bit outside the main part of Jodhpur, which is a fairly large city. Be sure Ram takes you to Gypsy for lunch of dinner while in J.

Pretty sure Mewar Haveli is on the east shore of the lake.

Thursday: Thanks. I can certainly say no. Guess there will be no way to tell until I get there. If Ram only drives spot to spot and then stays in the car he will not be providing a "buffer" which is what these women are saying I need to walk to shops, sights etc.
Guess I will figure it out when I get there. It's going to be an adventure and I can not wait. So sounds like when I leave the Gateway Hotel to go to the Taj I would hire a rickshaw driver to take me to the Taj. Doesn't sound like I need a guide. Can I get an autorickshaw at the Gateway to go to the Taj?



Any other recco's for eating in Udaipur or Jodhpur? Also a place to grab dinner near the Gateway

My experience with rickshaws was that they found me, lol. Especially in Agra. Finding one when I wanted one wasn't a problem, the problem was shutting them up when I didn't want one, and wanted to walk. My advice for India is to embrace the chaos.

So your suggestion is to hire a rickshaw outside the Gateway when I head to the Taj?
I suppose they are there at sunrise as well?
Is there a preferable gate to go to for sunset/or sunrise?

I found that saying 'no thank you' with a smile and keep walking worked for me. I would just keep saying it and keep moving,not getting mad or upset, just being firm. I never had any problems.
You will have to get your ticket to the Taj first. You can take an auto rickshaw to the ticket place and have them wait for you and then take you to the East gate. THat is the only way i know of, we did this a few days ago and it worked well.
I just posted a report on my trip, if you click on my name you can read about Agra and our experience.

This is a three-step process: (1) go from the hotel to the ticket office in any kind of vehicle, (2) go from the ticket office to the entrance gate (only in a non-gas powered vehicle), and (3) pass through the entrance gate (on foot).
If Ram is driving you while you're in Agra, he will take you to the ticket office. Once you have your ticket, though, he can't take you to the entrance as his car has an internal combustion engine. Get the rickshaw once you have your ticket. If you get a guide, he will perform all these functions for you.

If you want someone to run interference for you, I'd get a guide, although none of the guides we had did anything else other than dispense information. If you hire a guide and you have that expectation, just tell him that's what you want. India is the only place I've been where beggars/touts actually touch you to make a point or to be insistent. They don't necessarily latch on, but they do tap lightly on the arm. I found that quite alarming, frankly, but didn't shriek or scream. Perhaps I should have!

sometimes what we did was carry around bunches of bananas and when children and women would ask for money for food we would give them each a banana which seemed to work really well.

I love the banana idea. It would be nice to help in some small way. Thanks for the info. Would it not be a free for all if I gave bananas to one child and not a hundred others? How can you handle that?
In Cambodia I changed a $20 bill and handed out small amounts to each child that came by. Someone said that was not a good idea in India.

I think that the best idea is to pick a charity and give money to that, rather than to random individuals. Maybe one working on educating girls. If you give to one person on the street in India you are likely to be mobbed.

Many guides will not only "not run interference", but will pretend not to notice. Chances are that your guide lives in the town and comes to those sites on a regular basis. He does not want to be seen by his peers as someone who interrupts their business.

Try to ignore the touts and beggars. Smile and shake your head or say 'no thanks" if you want, but any conversation just encourages them. Just keep moving. It really gets easier once you realize how it can get bad if you start giving things in public.

I also give to a charity before my trips. Eases my guilt for not wanting to deal with the issue on an constant basis, and it insures the money actually benefits the poor.

I'm a little confused with the above comments about getting tickets at one spot, then going to the entrance. I've only ever entered from the gate near the Amarvilas, but you travel first through the no car zone (a few hundred yards) then when you are AT the gate, you line up at the gate for your ticket and security screening. (If you have a guide, he'll get the ticket while you stand in the screening line.)

Do they have a ticket office elsewhere at the other gates?

Don't know if it's a different gate. For those who don't stay at the Amarvilas, there's a different procedure. She's staying at the Gateway where we stayed. Our driver took us from the hotel to the place to purchase tickets. We then took an electric vehicle to ticket taker and security check. A little more complicated, but lots cheaper . . .

There is an East gate & a West gate it is a different procedure at each gate so both the procedures above are correct. It is not just for the Amarvillas as we went in this way just a few weeks ago. J