glorialf

Still trying to decide if I should stay 4 or 5 days. What are some day trips? I wasin LP for 2 days 15 years ago and went to the caves at that time. I'm most interested in crafts (especially textiles), hilltribe villages, local NGO projects, cultural stuff,buddhism, food and markets. Not interersted in the elephants -- done it more times than I can say over the years. Nor am I a trekker (although I can certainly walk). Any suggestions?

Thanks

Craig

Gloria, when we went to the caves we stopped at two villages along the way - the whiskey village and a textile village. Boston Harbor talks in detail about this village in her recent report. While most people go by boat, I believe that you can also reach the textile village from Luang Prabang by car.

The other trip that people take is to the Kuang Si waterfalls. We stopped at a village along the way and wandered around but there was no commerce going on, just life. We had a car and driver for that trip.

While we had almost 3 full days in Luang Prabang, we would have been very happy to have had 4.

glorialf

Thanks, Craig. I read Boston harbor's and others reports so knew about those villages and the waterfalls. Just wondered if anyone had gone to any other villages, projects, craft places etc. I'm leaning towards 5 nights and 4 days.

Kathie

Remember that while the day trips are fun, the "best" activity in LP is soaking up the atmosphere.

There is a traditional weaving village right outside LP that has a weavers co-op. We stopped, talked with the weavers (at that time, very few spoke English but another traveler we met had an interpreter whom we used for a couple of interactions) and watched some of them work on their weavings and purchased weavings from the weavers at the co-op. At least when we were there in 2002, there were the traditional weavings, not the tarted-up (these are the colors and designs that westerners want) weavings that are at OpTocTic.

There are two different waterfalls to visit. I loved seeing the countryside and the ways of life of the people. When we were there, it was Hmong New Year and our driver (whom we hired on the basis of good vibes when we arrived at the airport) said we were welcome to go and observe the festivities. We were the only westerners there. He told us the meaning of some of the events (Hmong young people meeting each other by tossing oranges back and forth, etc). It was a delightful glimpse into the culture.

I understand there is now a Hmong Village you can visit outisde of town. I know I don't have to tell you, Gloria, about the problems with the commercialized "hilltribe" visits. I have no idea how commercialized these have become.

We loved the pilgrimage to teh Pak Ou caves, as much for the boat ride and view of life along the river as for the cave shrines themselves.

Kathie

By the way, when we were there, the two village stops along the way to the Pak Ou caves were pretty awful. The one advertised as the textile village had very poor quality weavings, and the Lao Lao village was filled with souviner junk. We did visit the small wat in the Lao Lao village which was lovely. It also gave us the opportunity to chat with a novice there.

glorialf

Thanks, Kathy. I'm always on the lookout for villages that tourists rarely go to. Since my first trip to northern thailand was in 1985 and Laos and the central highlands of Vietnam was in 1993 I've seen a lot before they became commercialised but it's always the highlight of my trip. I figure if I spend 4 days there I'd like to take two trips outside (don't have to be full days) and spend the rest ot the time roaming around. I spent 3 days in Vientiane in the 90s so don't need to go back there although I know that is really where the best textile are.

Craig

Gloria, one more thing that I just thought of - hire a boat to take you to the small town opposite LP on the other side of the Mae Kong River. We spent a couple of hours just wandering around the hillside poking inside a couple of tiny old wats and just generally exploring - didn't run into one other westerner the whole time we were there.

Kathi is right about the two villages on the trip to Pak Ou being commercial. However, once you walk past the people selling stuff and start exploring away from the river, they become more interesting.

I am wondering now whether there is more than one weaving village - one on the river and one that has the coop - I always thought they were the same. Perhaps someone can clarify for me...

Kathie

Oh, Criag's idea about going across the river is a good one. He's right, you'll see no other westerners.

Craig, there are two so-called weaving villages. One is just outside of town and has the co-op, and the other is basically a tourist trap on the river.

Femi

Gloria you're right to seek more info on the village visits. I wasn't impressed with the weaving village on the way back from the caves, I have a feeling there may be more than one 'weaving village'.

I also stopped at a Black Hmong village outside of LP on the way to Kuang Sy, and was quite surprised at the difference when compared to the Black Hmong that we visited in Sapa. Much poorer and disorganized in LP, didn't look like people were as happy/content as in Sapa.

Of course now that I think about it, it makes perfect sense that every village has its' own flavor. You just have to find the right one. You may have better luck asking around in LP.