Cruising the Rajang

Great start, Tangata! I've been looking forward to your report. Oh, how I would have loved to take that inaugural cruise!

Kuching is such a charming place. I'd love to return. I'm glad my report was helpful.

Lovely stuff, looking forward to more!

"three different itineraries in circulation, which didn’t really matter as we followed none of them" - LOL

Those of us, like me, who don't know what Foochow is can check this site:

www.foochow.org

which won't help at all. lol. No matter.

Great stuff Tang: more, more, more. Please tell about when you got drunk and fell down the stairs and into the vat of foochow.

Can't wait to hear about the cruise but this has raised my interest in Kuching and I will now go look around for Kathie's report. Keep going!

I'll be hanging on your every word. I'm planning to go on this cruise next year.

Femi it will be MUCH BETTER next year when you go.

OK Here is Day 6 to Day 10.

Day 6.

We cast off shortly before 6:00 and I was on deck shortly afterwards to admire the sunrise, probably the best that we experienced.

We continued downstream during breakfast though running late and then moored at Sangai for the transfer through the Kut canal, built in 1790, to Delat.

What followed was near disaster; no not a near disaster, a total disaster. As we discovered later, the incorrect boats were sent. It would have been sensible to abort at that stage but we pressed on. We boarded an open boat sitting two across in armchairs, borrowed from outside our cabins. It was an uncomfortable trip which lasted almost three hours with repetitive scenery.

On arrival we found very little to entertain us other than a Sacrificial Burial Pole, some sacred Ficus trees and a market.

When the time came to return, Poolsuk and I opted for a smaller and apparently faster boat. Not a good decision. With a crowd of long noses sitting on a single row of armchairs it was very unstable, it was also very slow and we were passed by all but one of the other boats.

Unfortunately one of the passengers in our boat was unable to connect the alarming movement of the boat with the movement of the passengers and moved around constantly, taking photographs and attempting to chat to people sitting in the stern. The rest of us shifted continually, trying to maintain equilibrium; technically we were definitely in a state of unstable equilibrium. i.e. A ball balanced on top of an unturned bowl.

During one of these balancing manoeuvres, two legs of a woman’s chair dropped into a gap between the floorboards and her chair went over to 30° leaving her half out of the boat. Her husband, who was much smaller than her, heroically wrestled her back into the boat. She refused to take part in any further excursions involving small boats.

The result of the trip as far as I was concerned was some serious sunburn after over five hours exposure to the sun. Both arms suffered in particular as they were dreadfully exposed as we gripped the gunwales for dear life.

Nobody, including the Skipper, was amused and those following after us can rest assured that they will not be exposed to this particular outing.

As we lunched we turned upstream. Late in the afternoon we went ashore at Kampong Bungan Kecil to see the production of Sago. Following the morning’s outing, many elected to remain on board but it was a short trip and the boats were much better. Being in the building where they barbecue the Sago is a foretaste of hell.

There was a short talk before dinner from one of our two Guides covering etiquette in Longhouses. After dinner there was a film that lasted until almost midnight but the more sensible of us retired to the Sundeck and the Bar.

Day 7.

We both had a good sleep; there were only three starters for early exercises on the Sundeck. Naturally I was not amongst them.

Whilst we cruised during the morning there were talks on Tattoos and “Long Ears”, but I was happy to just sit and watch the river go by.

In the afternoon we were invited to an Iban longhouse. This involved a drive in a collection of old, uncomfortable, non air-conditioned vans. Not a pleasant experience.

En-route we stopped to have a demonstration of rubber tapping and then of pressing the sheets of raw rubber through a mangle. Great stuff; I suspect that we were all old enough to have seen a mangle used for more conventional applications. Our next stop was at a village hall, not the advertised longhouse, where we were treated to rice wine and dancing.

Then it was back to Kanowit to see Fort Emma which unfortunately was locked. The Caretaker was contacted and arrived to explain that he couldn’t open for us as he didn’t have the key. He added that that didn’t matter, as there was nothing to see anyway.

That night we had a “Pandaw” dinner featuring dishes from Burma, Vietnam, Cambodia, India and Malaysia. It was not well received; in general the food had not met the standards we expect on Pandaw and service had been dreadfully slow.

After dinner there was a Tuak tasting – more rice wine - on the Sundeck. Any spilt on the deck resulted in the instant removal of the paintwork.

At least it guaranteed a good nights sleep!

Day 8.

For some reason there were few present at 7:00 when breakfast was served.

Despite being underway by 6:00, it was after twelve when we arrived at Kapit, three hours late.

Confusion piled on confusion but it was clear to the guests, if not to the Company, that there was no point in visiting a market at 1:00 p.m. when the last produce had been sold at 10:00 a.m. This had all the indications of being a Dogster day!

Finally some common sense surfaced and lunch was announced for 1:00. We were now moored upstream of the town alongside a jungle, why we could not moor alongside a pier was not clear. Whilst lunch continued, the jungle was being cleared and steps were being cut into the hillside. At the same time a longboat was produced and moored alongside.

Something was going to happen, but what?

Shortly before 3:00, the hottest time of the day, there was a rather vague announcement and we assembled. Two options were available, the boat or the steps. The general understanding was that the boat was going to the Longhouse and the walkers to town. Accordingly we joined the boat, a hot steel shell, but we were not to be in it for long. We reversed down the river to a pier and got off. From there we walked to Fort Silvia, now a museum. There the walkers joined us.

It was a small interesting museum not requiring more than thirty or forty minutes.

Then we created a couple of problems of our own. Poolsuk saw me walk out the door of the Museum and decided that I had gone off and joined a group going to the Market. I had merely been checking that she was not outside waiting for me and having determined that she wasn’t I headed back into the Museum looking for her.

A half hour passed and vans were there and people were ready to move and I still hadn’t found her. I phoned her to discover that she was at the Market. We were also heading that way, in a dilapidated van that boasted both an air conditioner and a fan, though neither worked. Arriving at the Tattoo factory next to the market we stopped for “a look round”. To no one's surprise the Tattoo factory was shut. Three of us didn’t bother to get out of the van and after five minutes in a hot box the driver decided that the fan did work.

Rumour had it that it was 1 ½ hour drive to the Longhouse. This didn’t appeal, but when I suggested that I might walk back to the boat a fellow guest told me that he considered that the route was unusable due to a damaged bridge.

Then Poolsuk sent me a text! She was back at the Museum! No options remaining, I had to walk back to collect her. Arriving there I saw three other people in front of us clearly walking back to the boat. We followed. The bridge was not too bad by Asian standards, although I can understand someone used to UK health and safety requirements being appalled by it.

It was then 16:43 when we got back to the boat and according to the itinerary we should have been enjoying a refreshing swim ahead of returning to the ship. Needless to say that didn’t happen.

Dinner that evening the “Head Hunter” dinner did nothing towards earning redemption! The film that evening was “The Sleeping Dictionary” which was enjoyable if historically inaccurate – or more accurately historically hysterical!

Day 9.

We were both up early as at 8:00 we were to take a speed boat up to the rapids. Really how gullible can we be!

At 7:50 the speed boat arrived and tied up. At 8:10 the announcement was made to gather together and join the speed boat. At 8:11 the speed boat cast off and headed downstream. The rumour was that it had gone to get some fuel! Later it emerged that that had demanded an exorbitant increase to the agreed price.

The next rumour was that we were taking Pandaw upstream and that the Skipper, who was enjoying a sleep in, had been roused and informed. He was not happy! He is basically a deep water sailor, ex QE II, not a river man and he was worried about his unprotected propellers. So he should be; every other vessel we have seen had shrouded propellers.

At 9:00 the Owner deserted the sinking ship and returned to Sibu on an air conditioned speed boat.

At 9:40 we got underway it is all unknown to the Skipper, he joined the boat two days before us and therefore did not take part in the one dry run that they did. One would have thought that his presence would have been beneficial! One suspects that more than one dry run would have been useful.

Eventually we arrived at the confluence of the Rajang and the Baleh which we were scheduled to sail up. There we stopped and moored and a speedboat came alongside to take us up to the rapids. The problem with a speedboat is that the windows are Perspex, dirty and covered with spray, so nothing can be seen. Some of us stayed at the front in the non air-conditioned section where we could see out of the doors, but not very much.

Arriving at the rapids we took turns to file out onto the "deck" and take photographs – we did not get to set foot ashore, the Resort which we were scheduled to visit for lunch was declared closed for maintenance and the promised jungle trek, for which some had prepared special anti leech clothing, never eventuated.

We turned downstream and rejoined Pandaw. I felt like the dear old Duke of York having walked to the to the top of the hill then walked down again.

No mention was made of taking Pandaw up the Baleh as scheduled. (The Skipper told me later that he considered that it was running far too fast to navigate.)

The alternative promised speedboat ride up the Baleh did not eventuate; the reason given being that the speedboat coxswain did not know the Baleh and would not allow another driver to take over.

So, as lunch was served, we headed back down the Rajang. We had four days to go, what were we going to do between here and Sibu?

I feel that many of the troubles we had experienced to then were because, unlike in Burma or on the Mekong, there is no Tender or “Country Boat” with us and we are reliant on hiring suitable local craft, of which there are very few, indeed in our experience none.

The plan at the moment is to stop at a village and see if the Headman will allow us to visit – all a little hit or miss.

People are still commenting on my scarlet arms, today being the first day I have worn a short sleeved shirt, but they are improving.

At 15:25 we arrived at a village!

We took a short walk through the village of Nanga Yong , providing, as is quite proper, as much entertainment as we received. One nice young man looked and me and said, “You’re tall!” He then added “You’re thick!”

Then, thanks largely to the efforts of our two Guides, a jungle walk was organized. As I could feel the heat of the sun on my uncovered sunburn I returned to the ship, or more precisely the Bar, but Poolsuk joined the walk, which included a visit to a pineapple farm and enjoyed it.

At 7:00 some school children came on board and performed some dances. They were very good, particularly as it was not arranged previously and they were given about an hours notice.

Dinner was named for Brooke and was western, a welcome change.

Nobody went to the movie but the Sun Deck was popular and the free drinks are always popular.

Day 10.

Once again we sailed about six and by breakfast time we were in Song.

On schedule (a miracle) we boarded three longboats and headed up the Katibas River. Roofs had been fitted to give protection from the sun. Unfortunately they made viewing and photography difficult. However they were a great improvement to the boats used on the first day and with longitudinal seating a great deal more stable. My new pride and joy, a Sony Alfa DSLR, came into its own as its tilting screen enabled me to take photographs without twisting into impossible positions.

First stop was to view the tapping of “Ijok” or palm juice wine. On stepping ashore we were told to apply insect repellent – an announcement on board would have been of more use. However I didn’t encounter any insects.

The Ijok was quite pleasant, even at ten in the morning. It is not like the palm toddy common in Thailand.

Next we were due at a Longhouse, but again we were stymied. This time through no fault of the organisers, there had been a death in the Longhouse and as indicated by a white banner flying at the landing stage, casual visitors were not wanted. So we had to content ourselves with cruising further up river.

We were back in time for lunch and cruised downriver passing Sibu, which was starting to feel like home, around 4:30.

There was a very pleasant sunset followed by a rather uninspiring Malaysian dinner after which some of us gathered on the Sun Deck to polish off some wine kindly provided by our favourite Travel Agent and ferried in for us by some fellow guests. (Contact details of Travel Agent on request!)

Oh, this has made me laugh. How fabulous - I'm glad it was you and not me. lol. I think it is PURE Dogster. I can just see this all happening.. but such a spectacular comedy of errors! Excellent work there, Paul Strachan. lol. I bet he was smiling.

I'll quiz you when you finish. Great stuff, tang.

LOL! Loving the report. Thanks for bravely going forth. On the plus side, things probably will be smoother next year. On the downside, that also means less adventure. I think I'll be able to live with that. Obviously some things are more fun to read about than experience

While wandering through the market place during an outing from the Road to Mandalay I was told to mind my head as I was 'very long'. True enough my head did poke up above all the tin roof tops. Glad I was saved from any other commentary!

I must take back my previous comment. I hereby amend it to : Oh, how glad I am that you - not me - took that inaugural cruise! What a comedy of errors!

I'm loving your report!

By the way, do you all get gift certificates good for a more polished Pandaw cruise?

NO! No gift certificate and they have discontinued the 10% discount for old customers.

So here are the last few days, things got better as professionalism kicked in.

Day 11.

We sailed very early but we slept in until 8:00. We sailed westward towards the sea which could be smelt as we approached it.

Our first stop of the day was at Rajang Village or Tanjung Manis where we were welcomed by two Headmen, some dancers and music and a pier that made boarding and alighting very easy.

The welcome was very warm, as was the weather. We visited a small factory, really a cottage industry, making fish crackers and similar items, a bakery specializing in Melanau biscuits and the local weaving factory which specialises in hand woven fabrics, some in designs reserved for the Malaysian Royal families. Genuinely hand woven the results are dazzling and expensive.

It was a long hot walk but quite rewarding. Two older passengers who found the return walk daunting were mounted on the pillions of two motorcycles and arrived back in style.

On returning to Pandaw we were visited by many of the town people who enjoyed their short time aboard.

We then sailed to Sarikei where we transferred to buses for a visit to a pepper plantation but once again things went awry as the rain lashed down and we had to abort. Returning to Sarikei and in the dry once more, we had a short walk around town before dinner.

Day 12.

We were up at six for coffee and off at 8:00 with the Chef for an interesting walk around the “wet” market. It was becoming increasingly clear that we were in for a very hot day.

At 10:00 we went off to a pepper plantation with a short stop at a Chinese pastry shop. The plantation was very small which is evidently the norm as they are all family businesses and produce other crops as well as after 15 years the soil must be rested from pepper.

Then we went on to our last Longhouse (my first), so new that it was unfinished. It offered rattan weavings for sale but I don’t think that there was much interest.

We were back on board by 1:00 for a late lunch. It was an awkward scramble from the pier down to the deck due to the tide, a gate in the railing of the upper deck would have been useful.

A round up Question and Answer session conducted by Louis and Andreas our two excellent Guides was held in the afternoon. The rain came down once more drenching the Sundeck and revealing a number of holes in the awning but, unlike earlier versions of Pandaw, there was no water in the cabins.

At four the much awaited Durian arrived and was ceremoniously presented on the Sundeck. It was not hailed with universal approval!

However those of us who enjoy Durian had a Ball!

I may be biased, but I thought it inferior to the Thailand fruit, but as it is very early in the season judgement may have to be held in abeyance.

As we cruised upriver the highest building in Sibu was visible above the trees but constantly changed its apparent position as the river twisted and turned.

We found a quiet spot and dropped the anchor for the last time. Shortly afterwards the Singapore registered CS Enterprise, apparently a deepwater tug, passed us at hailing distance whilst its klaxon saluted the newest arrival on the River.

Our final evening Briefing was preceded by a war dance performed by Adreas. Dinner followed and then a last gathering on the Sundeck for a round of drinks.

Day 13.
I was up at six once more for coffee and had breakfast at 7:00.

Then there was nothing to do until 11:00 except to farewell those leaving before us. Not a final farewell in a number of cases as at least four of our companions will be joining us in India.

Our turn to leave came at 11:00. As we were the only ones to leave at that time, a car was provided and we were at the airport and checked in by 11:30. Unfortunately Immigration were not manning their desks and we had to wait until 12:00 to be checked out and to pass through Security and into the air conditioned area.

Although our flight was a few minutes late leaving, we made up time and landed on schedule. As we suspected, our flight home had been rescheduled which means that we have time for breakfast. In fact with the rescheduling we could have spent the night in Kuala Lumpur, but our hotel was already booked.

We had some difficulty in finding the transfer to the main terminal, but once there we easily located the Concorde’s Shuttle Service. The Concorde is showing its age, but is comfortable enough. Having to pay 11.00 Ringgits plus plus for a small glass of beer was a bit of a shock after having a free supply for ten days!

Day 14.

Not much to tell! Breakfast was not as good as on board Pandaw. The transfer to the terminal was painless at 35 Ringgits.

Booking in was a bit of a shambles. Along with most people we did not realize that we were meant to have our check-in luggage x-rayed before checking in. However we were through in plenty of time to do some duty free shopping.

The flight home was fine until we began the descent when the Pilot announced that we had been directed to adopt a holding pattern for thirty minutes and for thirty minutes we traced a racetrack in the sky! Nobody, least of all the airline, was amused.

We were met by what seems now to be the standard bunch of medics but nobody admitted to being sick! We were all given forms to fill in but nobody did and there was nobody collecting them. I still have mine.

If no one else was, the dogs were happy to see us back.

Well, I hope you brought back some Sarawak pepper so you have something to show for your cruise! I do hope your India cruise is a bit smoother.

Thanks for the detailed report.

All of the above was written whilst travelling, quite a bit whilst waiting for something to happen.

I have put together the following comments after having a few days to return to reality.

KU CHING

A magic place well worth three days. A lovely mix of architecture and the new Parliament Building is stunning.

The Orang-utans were marvellous, so nearly human.

THE BOAT

The Pandaws are lovely boats and this one was fine although the finish is not as good as I recall from the earlier boats. This may reflect a difference in Burmese and Vietnamese construction or it may be that supervision was not as good as in the past. It could also be that it was just done in too much of a hurry – a comment that could probably apply to the entire project. One other possible factor is that there is no Teak used in this boat.

We thought it was a little noisier than other Pandaws in that noises in one cabin could be heard in the next – though not intrusively.

We did feel the loss of the saloon but the forward deck that partially replaces it was a nice place to sit.

There is a potential problem with the propellers, indeed I think it is only a matter of time before they damage one on a floating log of which there are hundreds. But that should not upset the guests too much.

There have been changes to the design that are improvements, e.g. cabin doors are now two sets of sliding doors, glass on the inside and louvred and screened on the outside. There was no repetition of rain coming into the cabins as used to happened occasionally.

The lecture room on the lower deck is comfortably furnished but does not give any views of the river.

THE FOOD

Generally the meals were not up to the standard we are used to on Pandaw and service was very slow particularly at breakfast. The practice of having a Chef in the dining room cooking to order has been replaced by taking orders to the kitchen. There were more options and service could have been slower because of this.

Lunches and dinners were generally not as good as we were used to and the selection of fruits was not as wide as elsewhere, but this might be a reflection of what is available locally. The local markets have large amounts of imported fruits, little of which we ever saw.

Generally for dinner the food was Asian with dishes being shared, which not everyone liked. Lunches offered a lot of choices but it was seldom that I had to make a decision, normally there would only be one choice that I would consider.

One Guest who was in the catering business held the view that the standard of meals was not the Chef’s fault but was due to a lack of budget. I wondered if the problem was a lack of produce in the local markets, particularly as we tended to get to towns after the market had closed!

The local beer and spirits were free and included imported beer. Wine was very expensive.

THE RIVER

I can’t help thinking that they have got it slightly wrong. It just isn’t comparable with the Chindwin, the Irrawaddy or the Mekong.

There are few spots of interest, history is pretty limited or there are few reminders of it. The Brooke Forts are not impressive, more fortified Police posts. To highlight a coal loading jetty pretty much sums up what is available.

I believe that the bit we first visited below Sibu will not feature in future trips and it should not, but it is difficult to find enough attractions above Sibu, particularly if the Boat cannot go up the Balch River (which seems to have other names) or above the confluence on the Rajang.

The Skipper did tell me that he considered the current on the Balch to be too strong, which may not always be the case.

Our second visit to the delta below Sibu was excellent value.

THE STAFF

It was nice to see some old friends amongst the staff and they all tried very hard to see that we enjoyed ourselves.

We will be meeting some of them again in India.

WOULD WE RECOMMEND IT?

Yes we would. It is certainly going to get better as they iron out some of the snags and get used to things. Indeed it did get considerably better after the first few days due to the professionalism of the staff.

Compared to some horror stories of maiden voyages this was paradise; the toilets worked, the hot water worked (everyone thought the shower pressure marvellous) and we didn’t have to be towed into port.

Nor did we run aground, although some thought that a pity as it is pretty much expected with Pandaw!

However, to me the Rajang will never have the charm of the Chindwin or of the Upper Irrawaddy, nor is it as interesting as the Mekong.

AIR ASIA

We were very happy with them, but consider that pre booking a “Hot Seat” is a must. Early boarding is great but being first off is wonderful!

We had five flights with them and had booked seats 1A and 1B for all flights and for four flights 1C was unoccupied.

Some of our cruise companions used them from Australia and were very satisfied.

MALAYSIA

We liked it very much. We were very impressed by how the different ethnic and religious groups mixed together in mutual respect and with great tolerance for each others beliefs.

Great story, tang. Stumble-bum cruises. lol. I'm sure they'll sort everything out. I really enjoyed reading it - it's a pleasure to read of someone else's adventures. And I laughed!

Leaving aside the glitches [which is kinda hard to do] the excursions don't seem wildly interesting to me. Maybe once they get the tribal dancing up and running it'll be better. How would you characterise the other passengers? Were people stoic, amazed, outraged? Or did you all just laugh?

I'd imagine that the first half of India cruise will be pretty together. It's the second week in uncharted territory that'll go awry.

Great report. Thanks for taking the time to post it. Do you have any opinion on cabin selection? i.e. a preferred location for a cabin?

Very amusing blow-by-blow account, Tangata. As someone said, better you than us as guinea pigs, but these disasters are so entertaining in the retelling. Sort of like the African Queen, sans leeches. And Strachan left the boat? Hmm.
I'd also be interested to know more about your fellow passengers and their reactions.

Femi,

First of all, all of the cabins are the same except for 201, 202, 301 and 302 which have forward facing windows. However there is also a disadvantage with this arrangement as in 201 and 202 the windows overlook the foredeck which is often used by the crew, particularly when the anchor is being raised or lowered or when mooring. Cabins 301 and 302 overlook the deck which partially replaces the Saloon and which is very popular with passengers. So although the windows may be nice to have they may affect your privacy.

The closer to the stern you are the more likely that you will hear the engines. This may not be a problem, unless the itinerary calls for cruising at night. We have never had a cabin aft of the companionway so I can’t really comment on how troublesome the noise can be.

Lowering and raising the anchor is inevitably noisy and will be heard anywhere on the boat but would be marginally worse in the forward cabins. I wouldn’t find this a concern unless cruising at night meant that your sleep might be interrupted by them dropping the hook, but a light sleeper in any cabin could be woken. We were in cabin 303 and didn’t find it a problem.

If you enjoy sitting outside your cabin then the closer you are to the companionway the more you will be disturbed by passing passengers. There is also a lot of traffic forward of the companionway on the top deck as people visit the foredeck.

Top deck or lower deck? On the Rajang the price was the same. It is probably a little quieter on the upper deck, but we didn’t find noise a great problem. If the banks are high you get a better view over them which could be significant on the Irrawaddy. On balance I would prefer the top deck but I wouldn’t pay extra for it.

Port or Starboard? The old POSH. There is no difference on the Rajang as it twists and turns and you retrace your steps so your cabin will be on the sunny side for half the time anyway. This could be different on the Ganges, where we have booked a cabin on the Starboard side which we think will be on the shady side for an upstream journey. We shall see if that is an advantage. SUPD? (Starboard Up Port Down)

LAlesie,

Disasters are also quite entertaining when happening, provided someone else has to sort them out. I regret the sunburn which affected my enjoyment for the next few days, but I should have put on some lotion. If we had been told how long we were to be in open boats I certainly would have.

Paul did leave the floundering if not sinking ship; I suspect he was off to India to try and sort out the rumoured problems there.

We had a good bunch of passengers, 42 in all including Paul and three hangers on. The majority were Australians and Brits in pretty much equal numbers, three Kiwis, one Thai, two Swiss and another two Swiss living in the US, one other from the US but living in Thailand and one Canadian living in Malaysia.

The majority were experienced in river cruising and understood the change in Itinerary. I think the main concern was with the food. I don’t wish to imply that it was poor or bad, but it didn’t match the standards we have had before on Pandaw.

I know at least one guest is writing to Paul outlining his concerns, but in a constructive way. It certainly isn’t stopping him from joining us on the maiden cruise up the Ganges; I believe there will be at least eight of us doing both cruises.

What a great read Tangata - I think you and the Dogster are going to get on very well. I can only hope for the sake of those of us who can't be on the Indian trip that you have a voyage of similar adventure - then we should have two great reports to read!

Mary--I think we should send Mitch04, the journalist, to record what really happens on that Ganges cruise...

For all we know the esteemed Dogster is a housebound spinster with a very active imagination!

Damn - Marija has found out my secret. But I have confessed to this before... Dogster is the Ghost Who Walks. He has many guises. He may be sitting next to you, right now.

However, before all of you get excited, I have to record a possible glitch in the plans to unmask me. Dogster, his leg, September and the doctor may yet collide. Things are not tremendously good, as I speak.

Tangata may be Dogless. Dog may be Tangless. It's impossible to know. Kismet.

Dogster, that would be a pity if your leg keeps you from the Ganges. Take care of yourself- and tell your doctor to get you cured (I was going to say fixed, but thought better of it) by September.

Sorry you're not on all fours yet. Surely you know that what's broken in India must be fixed in India...

Have you seen the palanquins in the museum at the fort in Jodhpur? Just an idea.

What a waste if the Dog can't make it; I have been broadcasting warnings to everyone! I think he just concerned about being exposed!

Incidentally I checked on the revamped Pandaw site after I made my last post and I see that they are now charging a premium for a cabin on the top deck.

For clarity and to avoid any confusion, I am NOT volunteering to handle one end of a palanquin so that the Dog can recline at his ease!

Oh Tangata - really couldn't you just lift one corner!

Dog - sorry to hear the hind leg is still giving you trouble .

Marija - Your probably right but just in case he does make the trip, the addition of Mitch to give an unbiased report would be useful - he'd probably enjoy himself too.

Here's a warning from the Pandaw website which I don't remember seeing before:

River Conditions Warning: the Rajang River is unlike the other great rivers Pandaw navigates which have seasonal rises and falls of water level. On the Rajang water levels can change dramatically overnight at any time of year. A sudden rise can impede our progress upstream considerably. A sudden fall can result in our being unable to get into certain places or go as far upstream as we would hope. Either way itineraries are subject to sudden changes and passengers are asked to be flexible and patient. River cruising on the Rajang is a dramatic and exciting experience - not like cruising the controlled waterways of Europe or America. Note also this is our first season of operation in an area that has no tourism infrastructure at all. As a result local services and suppliers, like boats, buses and guides, can be erratic to say the least. Be prepared for this and it is all more the fun!

I've seen that femi, but only I think since our return.

However a brochure I received in April stated:

River and Local Conditions

Every river expedition we run can be a pioneering experience. Every cruise may promise a first with an unexpected adventure. We are subject to ever changing river conditions varying from flood waters to treacherous shallows. We work in ‘transitional countries’ and in some cases the government is non-democratic, Communist and in other places non existent. We can be at the mercy of unscrupulous local officials and delayed by extortionist bureaucracy. Passengers should have read and understood our standard terms and conditions of carriage in which we emphasise the expeditionary nature of these cruises. Please note that itineraries are indicative and for general guidance purposes only. Changes to an itinerary and schedule are quite normal on a Pandaw river expedition. We do make sure that if we miss anything we will make up for it. Passengers who are unable to adapt to the suspense and excitements of such a river journey should probably not book a Pandaw cruise. Real travellers, who truly relish the unexpected, and find such experiences enriching, are very much wanted on board!

From what I have read above it would seem that Paul, the owner of Pandaw, has nutured what I will call the Pandaw Mystique, to cover any change of plans which may occur during one of his river cruises. He milked this to the limit on the maiden voyage of the Orient Pandaw up the Rajang River. In an entertaining talk on how the Pandaw cruises came into being he kept referring to the flexibility and hardy nature of Pandaw passengers when trips have gone array. He subtly inferred that we, like Pandaw passenger before us, were dealing with the unexpected happenings of the maiden voyage with true grit, flexibility and philosophical humour. Running aground, storms and so on seem to be part of the Pandaw experience but on this voyage it was not the vagaries of the weather but poor planning that was the cause of the chaotic on land component of the trip. In three words "They rushed it". The forward planning for this new route was not sufficient, the communication on board was poor and so it turned into a comedy of errors on many attempts to get ashore and see what we had been told we would see . The marketing department are now doing double somersaults to cover their tracks, referring to the second trip " as much improved" etc. Well the boat is great, the staff are great, the guides are great I enjoyed the food too but if you are thinking of going on this cruise I'd give it 6 or so trips to iron out the bugs and don't pay any attention to all the stuff about wilderness and nature. This is a busy working river and is interesting for that and its reverine communities but wilderness it aint!. Could Pandaw perhaps have fallen prey to its own mystique? I thought it was only Aussies who used the term "aw she'll be right" . Not surprisingly Paul left the maiden cruise halfway through without saying goodbye to his bemused passengers......

Well, thank goodness for boards like this one to get the real story. Actually, all travel companies sell "mystique." At least Pandaw forewarns the potential sissies! Tangata re-drummed into my head one thing: Beware maiden voyages. And I appreciate finding out this ain't really a wilderness trip.

Great report Tangata. I would though add that the team on board were fantastic and really worked hard to make the most of, for them, a very trying voyage.

They were constantly let down by local suppliers of boats and other services and really tried their best to keep things on the tracks. The very notion of an advance itinerary for a maiden voyage in a totally undeveloped (for tourism) area is a bit of a joke.

Those on board who thought that this trip would be like other well oiled Pandaw cruises were inevitably in for a shock and should not have booked the trip. Having said that, Pandaw should have made it clearer that things rarely turn out as expected on a maiden voyage and discouraged the likes of Tangata from coming. I hope that he is not going on the Indian maiden voyage as he will be in for a far worse shock there!

The food was bad but the ship great and the river truly beautiful. It will not take much to get this cruise up to speed and Pandaw have appointed an Australian expedition manager who is developing the excursions. They have also ordered their own speed boat so they can go further up river and not be let down by local suppliers. However for the Old Pandaw hands used to the cultural riches of Burma or Cambodia they are in for an anticlimax. There are no Pagans or Angkor Wats up the Rajang - just a whole load of jungle.

I happen to know the real reason why Paul got off half way. He was down with suspected Swine Flue and had to get off for obvious reasons. Forunately no one else on board went down with it. He did the right thing getting off when he did and did not panic people by telling them he was unwell. Paul returned to the UK and was out of action for a month, at one point hospitalised with suspected phneumonia. I think if Tangata knew the whole story he would not have been so harsh.

As I said a few posts above this one, we will be on the maiden cruise on the Ganges; we arranged for our Visas this morning.

I don't believe any of us expected the trip to be without hic-cups, but one "dry" run and that without the Captain!

I don't think India can shock me, I have spent too long there, but maybe Pandaw can!

Well guess what? Pandaw has shocked me!

My Travel agent has just forwarded the following to me:

Dear XXXXX,

We would like to offer Mr XXXXXX and his partner Ms XXXXX a full refund as we do not wish them to join this cruise.

During the recent Rajang voyage Mr XXXXX proved a disruptive influence on the other passengers, inciting them against the Pandaw team who were trying so hard to take care of them in very trying circumstances. Since his return Mr XXXXX has posted a number of highly critical travelogues on the internet which really have been very unpleasant and done our reputation
serious damage.

We fear he will make similar trouble on the next maiden voyage - indeed the main reason why he seems to join our cruises is to cause dissent and make trouble. The Pandaw team are operating under great stress on these inaugural cruises and the last thing they need is someone stirring other passengers up against them. Mr XXXXX's attitude is quite at variance with the Pandaw
ethos and we would not accept him on another of our cruises.

Sorry but the decision is final.

I understand that you may have misgivings about other XXXX Travel pax booked on this cruise and would be happy to offer refunds to them too.

All regards,

Paul Strachan
Pandaw Cruises

This thread is the only one that I have posted on regarding this trip.

So, sorry Dogster we won’t be meeting.

We join our Travel Agent in the elite list of people banned from Pandaw; he had the temerity to advertise other cruises as well as Pandaw – though he gave them top billing.

No prizes for guessing who Tawtha is!

Having cruised the Mekong, the Chindwin, the Irrawaddy and the Rajang with Pandaw we were looking forward to the Rajang, but who needs this level of paranoia?

I hate this board that doesn't allow an edit.

I mean of course that we were looking forward to the Ganges.

Surprise, surprise Tangata. Do you really think any cruise line would carry you a second time after all you have said and done?

Wow, that's a remarkably vitriolic response to what seemed like a pretty straightforward piece of description (NOT "a number of highly critical travelogues"). Were you stirring up rebellion in the ranks and not telling us about it, Tangata?

"after all you have said and done" - more than he's written here? Because this really looks like over-reaction.

Maiden voyage glitches are one thing, kicking someone off a paid-for cruise is quite another. Not at all a good advert for this line.

Wow, this is quite shocking. Pandaw feels its reputation is so fragile that a single thread about glitches on a maiden voyage causes them to ban Tangata? And I love "Tawtha's" comment "Do you really think any cruise line would carry you a second time after all you have said and done?" given that Tangata has cruised with Pandaw quite a number of times already.

I've just crossed Pandaw off my list.

(Take a deep breath, Kathie, and try to write a reponse that might actually be helpful rather than merely reactive.)

Paul, I'm sure I was not the only regular who suspected your identity when I read your initial response to Tangata's report. At the time, I thought it was unfortunate that your response was a bit defensive and had a bit of hostility to it. I didn't see Tangata's report as being all that negative. It was a maiden voyage, after all. Had your response - in your own name - been gracious, a sort of "even Pandaw didn't fully anticipate the complications of doing a cruise on the Rejang" sort of response, I would have felt like Pandaw was, indeed, a class act.

There have been other companies on occasion who have responded to a detailed report of a trip gone awry with information and a gracious attitude, and I've marked those companies as ones I'd be willing to do business with.

The regulars here are a well-traveled bunch. We know that if we opt to travel there will be things that go wrong. We can keep a trip that begins with a comedy of errors from going totally off track by being flexible, adjusting our plans and our expectations. Hearing about a cruise or a hotel or a restaurant that has a bumpy start doesn't scare off seasoned travelers. Indeed, some people like the maiden voyage, the adventure the "roughing it." Others like to read about that, but go when things are more polished.

By kicking Tangata off your next cruise, you've not only lost a regular cruise passenger, you've lost people like myself who have tried several times to fit a Pandaw cruise into my itinerary and planned to do so in the future.

"Surprise, surprise Tangata. Do you really think any cruise line would carry you a second time after all you have said and done?"

Read your first post Tawtha, you said it was a great report! Why the change of mind?

I've read through this thread and I don't think there is anything in it detrimental to Pandaw, if anything the opposite. When things went wrong I was at pains to stress that things would improve and I twice praised the professionalism of the crew.

"Somersault" was also positive in her comments, although I suspect that she was the lady who almost fell out of the small boat and would not venture onto them again.

Tangata, Pandaw's banning of you, merely for posting your reactions and comments on this forum, is outrageous. It gives me serious cause to reconsider ever taking one of their cruises, which was on my to do list for the near future. This is truly unfortunate, and certainly not a way to treat paying clients.

What a ridiculous reaction. I too was looking forward to going on a much acclaimed Pandaw cruise but will now scratch it from our plans.

I too have been fantasizing about scheduling a Pandaw cruise but find the Tangata refund/banishment story highly unnerving. Free exchange of information and ideas is crucial. Wow, this is disappointing.

Yikes!

As I said before, I was seriously considering a cruise with Pandaw, but am quite taken aback by the letter to Tangata. I found his report very helpful when making my decision to cruise with Pandaw.

Tangata is an established member of Fodor's and so I do respect his posted opinions.

I guess the latest Pandaw response will help me make other decisions...

Wow!Banned from the boat for expressing a negative opinion or two. Imagine if the airlines banned passengers for saying how bad they are.. Thankfully we can freely express our negative impressions of airlines, hotels, tour companies, ect on this forum without fear of reprisal, in most cases.

Terrible business model. Remember: The customer is always right!

Hang on. Here is a great example of why anonymous Internet chat can be dangerous. Do any of you absolutely know that any of the above is true? Everyone uses a fake name, so there's no transparency, thus, no way to know the truth. Maybe "Tangata" really is a troublemaker and has caused Pandaw many more problems than we know. Maybe Tawtha isn't Paul. Maybe the black list letter isn't real. I'm not calling anyone a liar, just saying we shouldn't necessarily jump to conclusions since no one here is on the record.
I don't know enough about Pandaw yet, but I was planning on taking a future cruise with them. It doesn't make sense to me that an owner would jeopardize his entire business based on one candid but seemingly fair report. He's got to know the letter would be posted. The guy's been in the travel business for some time, no? I'd think he'd have thicker skin, gotten used to constructive criticism. I suspect there's more here than meets the eye.

LA, your cautions about internet postings are certainly true. As you may know, I am one who questions the veracity of posts, by new or unknown posters if they are either ranting or raving about a company/hotel/guide, etc. This forum and others like it are only useful resources if the posts made are by bonafide travelers and not either touts for a company or shills denigrating one company in hopes their own will be seen in a better light.

However, in this case, I do believe Tangata's account. Why?

Tangata is a long-time member of this forum. I have interacted online with Tangata for at least half a dozen years here on Fodors. Personally, I have gotten good recommendations from him about a number of things in Thailand (he lives in Chaing Mai). He has written previously about his travels here on the forum, and has written about his previous experiences on Pandaw cruises (and had very nice things to say about Pandaw).

While you are quite correct that we can't guarantee that Tawtha is Paul, I am of the opinion that the letter received by Tangata confirms that Tawtha is Paul or someone acting in Paul's stead.

Kathie, I have a tendency to believe Tangata too, and your other suspicions may be correct. I think over time you do get a sense of people. But unless you can tell me you personally know these posters' actual identities, or perhaps have traveled with them, you can't be sure what the facts are.
Maybe Tangata is a helpful poster who goes looney tunes on cruises and ruins other passengers' experiences. Maybe Tawtha is actually Mr. Strachan, a thin-skinned, incompetent tour operator. I have no idea. But the skeptic in me rears her ugly head. There's defamation going on anonymously on both sides. Possibility someone's business could be seriously jeopardized on the basis of insinuations. Suddenly the mob rises up and refuses to ever take a Pandaw cruise on the basis of what it believes is unfair blacklisting. We don't really know unless we were there, or people with real names say so. Maybe all is true. Maybe none. I just urge caution.
By the way, Kathie, lots of kinda scary stuff going on in Burma rihgt now. You still going?

And you are quite right to urge caution.

In my experience, there is always scary stuff going on in Burma. Indeed, I've cancelled 4 trips to Burma since 1990, always because of the misdeeds of the junta, not because of danger to travelers. At this point, I'm still going.

I guess the skirmishes between the army and the militias is limited at this point to Kokang and the border with China. I'd go, too, but probably wouldn't once elections are called. IF they're called.
Like you I'm curious to hear Doster's thoughts on the above...

I have read many of Tangata's posts with interest over the years. He is a constant addition to the free flow of information on this forum. The key in that last sentence is "free". If posters are reluctant to post anythging negative, how can we value the positives? The contrast provides perspective. Otherwise, the forum would defenerate into useless advertising.

The trip report was not negative in any real sense. It reported occurrences. The fact that many of the occurrences were not the advertised agenda of the Pandaw, does not make the reporting thereof derogatory. It's reporting!

I am trouibled by the banning of Tangata from future Pandaw cruises because of this report. I am ashamed that the name of the cruise line contains P-A-N-D-A. In my experience, a top notch tour business would take the exact opposite approach. It would try to make the maiden voyage of the Ganges cruise the best cruise Tangata ever had. Think of the wonderful free advertising such a cruise would provide.

LONG LIVE FREE SPEECH!

This is such an interesting post. I've been watching in increasing amazement as it turns from trip-report to lynch mob. lol lol lol. It's all been like a fantastic detective story. Like all great murder mysteries, I don't think the butler did it.

Of course, in my inimitable fashion, I find the whole thing completely inspiring.

Better declare my interests: I've been on Pandaw Up and down the Mekong, Down and Up the Mekong, up the Chindwin in Burma, then down and up the Ayerwaddy; Bagan to Prome, Prome to Bagan. That's five Pandaw cruises, a total of 38 nights. So I guess I like the product.

I met Paul Strachan, his wife and young son accidentally on my first cruise. I didn't even know - or care =- he was the owner. Pandaw was a weeny little business then, in comparison to now. So I've watched it grow. I've also followed the life and times of Master Strachan and done a weeny bit of my own reasarch on the ground in Burma. lol. I share some of his enthusiasms. I certainly enjoy watching his unique approach to business.

Since then, we've had occasional, eccentric communication via e-mail, usually when I want a 'mates rate' on a cruise. So I don't KNOW Paul - but, in a kind of way, I think I do. No, I'm not in communication with him on this matter. From my distant appreciation of the odd phenomenon of the Pandaw legend [now turning into Pandaw BRAND] I don't think Paul Strachan would overly mind if I offered these observations:

I don't think Paul has made a decision based on good business practices in his life. This is his genius. That his odd enthusiasm for river boats and Burmese culture has spawned a mega-industry I'm sure is as much a secret daily surprise to him as it is the rest of the travel industry in S.E.Asia.

So you really do have to look at this company with different eyes. To think of Strachan as a kind of cruising Basil Fawlty would be to underestimate the man. He's more a subtle Richard Branson. He's not a business plan, a 'customer-is-always-right guy - he's a living, breathing, highly emotional Scot; and we all know how dangerous they can be. lol lol lol.

Trust me, after a combined 38 days in the company of some of his passengers [and I do have to report the most awful, AWFUL, god-horrible-AWFUL of them were exclusively British] I'd have to report back that the customer is most definately not always right.

A very wise man once wrote:

'It's my party and I'll cry if I want to...'

Well, you know, despite everything, Pandaw is still Paul Strachan's party. So, in a delicious piece of malevolence, he's done precisely what many a tour guide/hotel manager/accidental tycoon wishes they COULD do - and tell that irritating client to just f-o-k off.

I'm sorry tangata. I'm your friend and admirer - but I have to say I chuckled at the news. I saw it as pure delight: a last gasp of individuality in a corporate, bland, business world.

Of course it's not good business practice! That's the point! It has nothing to do with censorship or freedom of speech. It has to do with a proud father and a new baby learning to walk.

Of course, on this maiden cruise, in a unique Strachan style that combines the chaos theory and confusion with Asian grace and hopeless, efficient inefficiency, things went pear-shaped.

I wonder if Paul's rather odd internet behavior might spring from a sense, not of the right of Tangata to say it, but from a feeling of 'not fair...'

'Not fair' in the sense of a Broadway producer not wanting heavy-duty critics in at the first preview of his new musical. 'Not fair...' in sense of a new mother not wanting people publicly sneering when her infant falls flat on its face trying to walk. 'Not fair...' in the sense of an implicit understanding that this inaugural cruise at cut rates was a 'soft-opening' and not be slagged off. Just yet. Not fair.

Is this good business practice? Nah. Paul Strachan has been thoroughly un-businesslike in his career, I'm happy to say. I've had the benefit of his stupidity.

Like all self-made men, he's sailed way too close to a few Burmese breezes in his time. Like all bright sparks, he's caused a few scrub fires. Like now.

As consumers, as customers, of COURSE we think we're always right. As providers of leisure activities, particularly where entertainment and tourism are concerned any entrepreneur also knows that whatever you do, someone will be pissed off. You do learn to shrug. You do learn to think of the bigger picture and not fall in a heap when the dress rehearsal is crap.

'Bad dress rehearsal - good show'. Famous show-biz adage.

For all the shock and horror above, somehow this hopeless creature has managed to parlay one cruddy boat in Burma into the largest inland cruise line in Asia.

Yup, 'it's his party...' - and he's crying all the way to the bank. Method. Madness. Quite refreshing really.

So - all I'm trying to do here is see things through different lenses. It's a kind of Dogster alchemy where lead can be turned into gold. I don't think there is a single problem with Tang's report. It's highly likely there is a back-story to all this, a kind of parallel universe of travel business intrigue. I think the mysterious 'travel agent' in question is a clue.

Paul's cyber-identities and tangata dummy-spit are as likely to be the product of a heavy night at the Edinburgh Festival as anything else. lol. Probably not his finest hour.

LAleslie's plea for caution and common sense here was beautifully written and entirely apropos. Let's look at this holistically - and, before we rush to judge and howl as a pack, consider history.

Thank you dogster, I do appreciate your perspective on this matter.

It certainly is Paul's right to bar anyone he wants from his cruises. Perhaps you're right that the effects of alcohol clouded his judgment. It seems unwise to ban someone who has cruised with him several times before and is a respected member of a travel forum. But, as you say, Paul is not a businessman.

No question, Paul can take his toys and go home - or perhaps more accurately, grab his toys and throw his guest off of his property. I don't mind buying travel services from people who are quirky or eccentric. I rather enjoy the off-beat and having to improvise when plans go astray. But I do like dealing with adults on such matters.

Perhaps I'm not cut out to be a Pandaw cruiser.

It does sound like this is the result of growing pains - small businesses often have trouble making the transition as they get too big for one person to manage everything. But I still find the reaction intemperate, and I've already spent more time than I care to dealing with people who act that way.

Remember that he now runs a huge company. There have been many changes. Paul has now 'retired' to his position as guru, ideas man and entrepreneur. This combination of events [first cruise, sensitivities and internet] is a highly potent and unusual event. Look in the website at the Pandaw relief efforts after the cyclone in Burma. Then tell me he's not a grown up.

http://www.pandaw.com/pandaw-charity-cyclone-nargis-c-104_131.html

Any other time, any other cruise, you'd never deal with Paul Strachan. Unless you're on the maiden voyage in India... heh. The rest of the time you'd be dealing with a highly efficient website and local staff. No issues.

I wasn't really suggesting he was on the hops. lol. That's a bit defamatory. 'Passionate'. I think that's a better word.

Anyway, enough defence for P.S. He's perfectly able to look after himself. I'm really sorry I won't be there on the maiden voyage. Their guide, one Sumit Battarachaya, is probably the best in the business. Would I have written about it? Hmmmm - dunno.

Dogster, I love it. The Edinburgh Festival Theory. Probably dead on. The Tawtha post never made much sense, with a reference to the Borneo cruise's "bad food," etc. Too much Guinness on top of eccentricity might be an explanation.

Oh, dogster, I'm well aware of Pandaw's wonderful work in the aftermath of the typhoon. No question, they have a done a fine job.

I first researched Paul when I thought about booking a cruise when he first started on the Irrawaddy with a single refurbished boat (I think it was their second season I wanted to book). I've watched over the years as Pandaw has grown and started cruising other rivers I'd like to cruise. The only reason I haven't taken one of the Pandaw cruises has been that my schedule and their hasn't meshed. I'm just disappointed in his behavior over this. It is his right to make this decision, no doubt, but my wish to take a Pandaw cruise has been called into question by his behavior.

I agree that, taking all this at face value, Paul has done the same as we have all wished we could at some point or another. However, the reason we don't do whatever it might be (and I speak for myself here) is an unwillingness to face the consequences of acting out our fantasies.

So yes, Paul gets to call the shots, but we also get to choose our reaction.

Shameful response from the Pandaw!

Dogster, whilst i totally agree with what you have said about it being Pauls' business so he can do what he wants. From Tangatas post i can't see the problem. I actually thought his posts were measured and WAY more charitable than i think i would have been given the curcumstances. Yes, we do not know the true story but i actually think his over reaction is super childish. (although when dealing with some of our customers, many of my guys would dearly LOVE to tell them to Fox trot oscar)
For me i think Kathie's response i about where i am, i like ecentric people too, but i also like them to act like adults...
Also Dog not sure what the relevance to the awful passengers being British has to do with it?
I am sure that all around the world there are HIDEOUS passengers of all nationalities (and i am not trying to pick a fight ref nationalities here just saying thats all...)

I sent an inquiry to Pandaw by E-mail. They responded quickly that Paul Strachan was away and they would get back to me upon his return. We shall see. Perhaps they would be more likely to respond if they received additional inquiries. I sent my inquiry to:

reservations@pandaw.com

You are correct Smeagol. The nationality of the pax was an unnecessary observation in this context. Accurate, kinda spooky - but unnecessary.

Gpanda, I'd imagine that P.S. and all his executive staff are in India. He has a new cruise up the Ganges starting in three weeks.

In the interests of balance, let me show you these new similar cruises that I just found:

http://www.assambengalnavigation.com/bengal_cruises.htm

I've had pleasant correspondence with Paul in the past as I was inquiring about cruises.

Dogster, that's the cruise line Mitch reported on, isn't it?

Dogster-I was impressed that they responded quickly and showed concern. Hopefully, we can be enlightened concerning the "banning".

I can't believe what a thread this is turning out to be, whilst i am sure not great for Tangata FASCINATING to us!

Yup Kathie, Mitch has been on a cruise down the Brahmaputra with these guys.

Dogster, I believe, has done four cruises in Assam and West Bengal with this company; 28 days in total. He may even have written about them but, as he actually paid for his cruises, didn't feel obliged to mention their name much.

Once he discovered, too late, that they made their tour guides return personal tips to the company at the end of the cruises he took to his bed and wouldn't come out. It's been months now. I'll ask him if he emerges.

Ah, Dogster, I thought you'd done them too, but since you didn't mention it I thought perhaps I'd misremembered.

I can't believe they make their guides return tips to the company. Very tacky.

The entire saga and questions about the banning raises the following:

"Oh what a tangled web we weave,
When first we practice to perceive."

Apologies to Sir Walter Scott.

"He may even have written about them but, as he actually paid for his cruises, didn't feel obliged to mention their name much. "
Call me slow dogster, but not sure I get the reference here. Are you saying TAs and such freebie takers on this board are posting favorable trip reports? I'm SHOCKED, SHOCKED! ("You're winnings, sir")
I hope Pandaw responds and clears this up and puts Tangata back on board the Ganges cruise with a generous shipboard credit and apologies. IF what everyone believes here is true.

Oh, I AM slow. Just figured it out by reading "Mitch04"'s India cruise report. Actually, he's a flack, as we in the states refer to PR people. Judging by its florid positive tones, it's really a puff piece off a freebie trip. Very common in the so-called travel journalism game, esp. in Australia.

Yes, LA; incredible but true - which might explain the state of travel journalism these days. Only you and I maintain any standards at all.

I'm not entirely sure what anybody thinks in here. As none of us have the complete information it seems silly to jump to any conclusions at all. I still feel that the name of tang's travel agent will hold the clue.

I could find all of this out - but I don't want to. If you look at the existing bookings for the Ganges cruises I really don't think P.S. needs to care overly about our attitudes or the rights and wrongs of anything. For a hopeless business man, he's managed to nearly fill his first season in India - at a juicy $6000 a pop.

I might tart up a couple of rowboats and go into business myself.

"I might tart up a couple of rowboats and go into business myself." - delicious thought! Indian tours by dogster...only the intrepid need apply.

Hmm... fascinating, dofster. I didn't know that about Mitch, though I knew from a post of yours that you two had crossed paths. I believe in full disclosure - if someone were paying for my trip, my readers would have the right ot know that. Alas! I can't find anyone who wants to pay for my trips!

Shrewd business mind. Get rid of one loyal customer(Tangata) who wasn't completely satisfied so they can keep the multiple $6,000 a pop coming!

I agree with LAleslie that they should allow Tangata back as a customer and should offer him a huge discount. Of course Tangata should then declined their offer and find alternatives.

Method. Madness.

It occurs to me that on the fortnight in question Pandaw will be running six boats simultaneously in four countries. Each boat can hold 60 passengers. Two of the cruises are for 14 days, the rest in a combination of 7 and 4 day cruises. I'd estimate Pandaw has about 500 potential customers over that time - at between $4 and $6,000 a pop.

They won't notice tangata - or Fodor's.

An interested observer might wonder what salary the crew are getting. Any estimates? I'd think about $100 a month average.

If they are from Myanmar, India, Vietnam or Thailand I would estimate around $300+ a month for the starting salary.

I'll defer to your knowledge here, Hanuman - but I think it's a lot less. $300 a month for an Indian deck-hand? Well, I hope so. I'm just wondering about the ecomomics of these cruises - AssamBengal as well. If there are 20 crew @ $300 a month average that's a monthly wage bill of $6000 a boat. Let's double that in case we got it wrong. So it's $12,000 a month. Let's double that again to be safe. So it's $24,000 a month wages.

Which is covered by FOUR passengers on a two week cruise. That means there are theoretically another 116 passengers each month to cover the rest of it.

Yup, he's a crap businessman. lol.

Kathie, it wasn't hard to find out about Mitch because he posted his Web site on the trip report. His business is right there for all to see, so he wasn't exactly obfuscating. But he does mask his identity by making it sounds like he's a Regular Joe who booked it himself. The travel stories by hacks are usually easy to spot: unlike Dogster's trip reports, beware the ones where there's not a dark cloud in the sky.

Which is, ironically, why Tangata's report has credibility and will bring people TO Pandaw. People actually LIKE the candor. Many in the travel business don't get it. And, like Dogster says, maybe when you've got it rolling in you don't care.

Still, Tangata's a regular customer, so it seems short sighted. I still don't think we know the whole story.

Dogster, your math is good but one also has to figure advertising, Web site upkeep, liability insurance, bribes to backwater potentates, travel agent kickbacks, and the like.

I'd buy a ticket on your row boat...

You can hire people for a lot less but what you get is what you pay! For a river cruiser I hope that they do hire more knowledgeable workers or staffs.

From what you've described he's not a crap businessman at all but a rather shrewd one. To treat a loyal customer badly and, from the look of it, to represent himself or his company and entrap Tangata further by posting under the anonymous name of "Tawtha" is not very ethical IMO. Not a business that I would want to patronise or recommend.

Even on the Tripadvisor forum or website when the owner or the business want to counter a bad or negative reviews they do so openly.

I have no question that Paul is making money hand over fist. My issue isn't that he's a poor businessman (though it could be said it wasn't good business to kick a regular customer off a cruise), my issue is that I don't want to give my money to a businessman who behaves that way. I have no illusions that my refusal to take a Pandaw cruise will be felt by anyone but me.

Wow! What a read! What can I add? Well as there has been a lot of comment on how much one can trust anonymous posts I have to say as one who was there ( and no I am not the lady who nearly fell out of a boat on day one) that Tangata's description of the maiden voyage up the Ragang is entirely truthful. Yes he did get horribly burnt on the first excursion. Yes he and his charming wife did decide not to go on the visit to the longhouse from Kapit and sadly in my opinion miss the highlight of the whole trip. They both looked flustered and hot when they decided to return to the boat rather than jump in the largely non air conditioned minibuses for the ride to the long house. Could I blame them for being a bit huffy at this point? No not really. The day had been filled with uncertainty and doubting that the trip to the long house would be worth the effort was very understandable. As to Paul Strachan's claim that Tangata was a trouble stirrer during the trip. Well he didn't seem to complain any more than others. There were many passengers grumbling about this and that but maybe as a first timer I was not party to Old Pandaw hands' rumblings. All in all I thought Tangata's diary of his trip fell neatly into the mood developed by dogster - an amusing personal account of the highs and lows of a maiden voyage with some perfectly reasonable criticisms but also continuing the Pandaw mystique of " we're all in it for the ride" which I commented on earlier. Surely the fact that he was preparing to go on the Ganges was proof enough that the hiccups on the Rajang maiden voyage were in his view just that - rectifiable hiccups? As to the idea that one could post horrible untruths in this thread - well Tangata makes little attempt to hide his identity referring to his wife by her real name. What a sad saga! But for Paul's extreme response Tangata's diary would probably have encouraged rather than discouraged others from going on the Pandaw cruise up the Ragang, if not for a while, as I hope mine did. I think fondly of the delightful crew and am sure they are all still doing their utmost to give us well heeled folk a memorable experience. All we ask from the likes of Paul is less spin, more honesty when things go wrong and good planning so that we can feel fairly certain that, barring natural disasters, our money is well spent. Then the odd hiccup along the way will be taken in good spirit by all.

Oh and I forgot. As far as I am aware we did not get a cut price trip because we chose the maiden voyage!

As noted above, I sent an inquiry to Pandaw concerning this voyage. The response was that paul Strachan was unavailable until next week. I will follow up and inquire again. We have Tangata's report, substantiated by Somersault's reply (With that screen name, I was hoping somersault was the person that almost somersaulted out of the boat. Alas, I was disappointed one more time). I hope that Pandaw provides their side of the story. Certainly, any silence on their part would speak volumes. We'll see.

I will go by boat from Mandalay to Bagan but not on a Pandaw.

Great to see somersault back in here. I'm looking forward to tangata's return. Will we ever see tawtha again? Ahhh... thank God for this post. It adds meaning to my otherwise pathetic life.

But awwww, NY: I confess to being a wee bit disappointed in your post. Not because I don't rejoice in your ethics and stand on this issue - but just because I know you'd really like Pandaw and, I guess, I just want you to have the best time.

But, in the interests of balance, I guess you've seen this:
http://www.orient-express.com/web/rtm/calendar.jsp?month=10&year=2009

ttt

"I know you'd really like Pandaw and..." if you didn't like it and post a report on it you will banned LOL!

Somersault, thanks for your your input. Let's hope Pandaw responds to the black and white guy. Their response, um, bears watching.

lol, LA

We'll see whather there's a reply. I'm hoping they will let us know what is transpiring.

I wrote them too.

Paul Strachan e-mailed me directly. Kudos to that. Here's his reply, posted here by permission:

"Dear Leslie,

Thank you for the message.

I think travel forums like Fodor's are can be very undemocratic - they present one person's point of view or opinion but not the others. A person with malicious intent can cause a good deal of damage without allowing the 'accused' a defence.

Pandaw do not operate a black list. But, like all transport operators do reserve the right to refuse to carry a person if we consider that person will endanger the safety and security of our crew or other passengers and/or might in any way spoil the cruise for other passengers by disruptive or anti-social behaviour.

In the case of Tangata, who recently travelled with us on the Rajang, we considered his behaviour anti social and unpleasant in the extreme and for this reason have declined to carry him.

The fact that he may have criticised us on the Fodor's forum has no bearing on this decision.

I would say that in 15 years of Pandaw's existence this is the first time we have refused to carry a person (and I truly hope the last). Most of our passengers are educated, cultured and very congenial people. This is the first time we have had to deal with a character whose objectives on board were clearly to disrupt the cruise and unsettle the other passengers.

We stand by our decision as it was made not just out of self interest (to spare our crew) but in the interest of the other passengers whom we want to enjoy the Ganges Maiden Voyage as much as possible.

I hope this explains our position and if you like you can post this email on Fodors as I am very happy to come clean with our version of events.

Yours sincerely,

Paul Strachan
Pandaw Cruises
Mobile +44 759 590 3997
www.pandaw.com

Well, it's certainly good that Paul Strachan answered, and gave permission for the letter to be posted. But I can't see that it clears anything up.

He makes some nasty charges against Tangata, but without specifics. And to describe Tangata as: "a character whose objectives on board were clearly to disrupt the cruise and unsettle the other passengers" - hardly accords with Tangata's or with Somersault's posts, or with the fact that he had cruised with Pandaw several times before.

I agree Thursday. Couple of problems though:

First, none of us was there. So who's to say Tangata didn't act the lout? Somersault is a mystery. He/she appears to be a new poster when you click on that handle. (But Dogster seems to know this person.) Maybe this new poster is Tangata himself! Again, the troublesome opaqueness of anonymity.

Second, it doesn't make sense that Pandaw is refusing business from a regular passenger unless there's some problem. I'm ever so slightly inclined believe a middling critique like Tangata's isn't enough to get a person black-listed. Again, makes no sense.

Anyway, the mystery deepens...

Bottom line for me: It might be a shame if people boycotted this company on the basis of scanty information and assumptions, especially since we have testimonials from other happy Pandaw passengers.

I'm glad that Paul responded to you, Leslie. I agree that there are still a number of problems here. The problem for me is that none of it holds together...

It's hard to believe that Paul is so thin-skinned that Tangata's review would cause him to ban Tangata.

Tangata is a long-time poster and has posted a number of times about his Pandaw cruises and has given them good reviews. It doesn't make sense that Tangata would have "an axe to grind" with Pandaw.

While there is no guarantee that Tangata didn't act in an annoying and perhaps disruptive way on the cruise, we don't really have any evidence that he did other than Paul's vague assertion that his behavior was "anti social and unpleasant in the extreme." Who knows? Perhaps a slightly negative review is Paul's idea of "anti social and unpleasant in the extreme."

We appear to have testimony from another passenger, somersault, which gives no indication of untoward behavior on Tangata's part.

We have the posts of Tawtha, who may or may not be Paul. Paul can obviously access and read Fodors and could have made a response to the board rather than or in addition to Leslie. If he was not Tawtha, I would expect him to post and say so.

Paul makes no reference to the fact that Tangata is a repeat customer.

I am guessing that there must be a lot of glue we are missing here to be able to understand how all of this fits together.

It's good that Paul replied to you Leslie. Certainly, if Tangata did represent a safety danger, that would be sufficient reason to ban him. However, I've read many, many posts of his on Fodors. They all seemed well-reasoned and thoughtful. They are not consistent with anti-social behaviour. His posts complied with all accepted notions of decorum. None of them were worded to disrupt the smooth flow of information on this forum. On the other hand, the posts of Tawtha were personal and a little troublesome. Paul's letter to Leslie was thoughtful and appropriate.

The mystery remains. Either Tangata accurately reported his experience and Paul over-reacted to the posts or Tangata was troublesome on the cruise and Paul acted in the interest of smooth operations of his business. I have my opinion, but it is based on conjecture rather than hard facts. As noted above, further information from another passenger would certainly help.

Well, bravo LA. I'm so impressed with you and the way you've approached this. I think you've had it in balance all along.

But no, I don't know somersault - I know Mitch from a previous Pandaw cruise - and a fine fellow he is.

What has been instructive and heart-warming here is the support given out to a regular poster in Fodor's. Also instructive has been the willingness of all involved to have an emotional reaction AND a logical one simultaneously. Then to follow up with an almost forensic legal approach to the details.

'...I have my opinion, but it is based on conjecture rather than hard facts...' I love this. Why did it take me 60 years to work this out? All I ever had was opinions running free.

Kathie's words:'It's hard to believe that Paul is so thin-skinned that Tangata's review would cause him to ban Tangata... '

gpanda's words: 'Either Tangata accurately reported his experience and Paul over-reacted to the posts...'

Paul's words: 'The fact that he may have criticised us on the Fodor's forum has no bearing on this decision...' I think, have to be taken on face value.

He adds '...I would say that in 15 years of Pandaw's existence this is the first time we have refused to carry a person (and I truly hope the last)...'

To my knowledge that's accurate so it does imply that whatever the behavior, the mystery, the unspoken circumstances, the 'Edinburgh Festival theory' and Paul's undisputed oddity, something serious enough went down [in his eyes, anyway] to make it more trouble to take tangata's money than it was gonna be worth.

That's a powerful statement, powerfully backed up with the willing abandonment of US$8,000. So, I think he means it.

Forcably separating a Scotsman from his sporran is an act of war. For a Scotsman to fling his sporran in your face, to say 'I don't want your money, just piss off and die,' is either an act of delicious, unexpected anarchy or a smarter move than we credit.

If this post was a chess game, I wonder who would be holding the advantage about now?

Tangata writes: "We join our Travel Agent in the elite list of people banned from Pandaw; he had the temerity to advertise other cruises as well as Pandaw – though he gave them top billing.", while Paul writes: "I would say that in 15 years of Pandaw's existence this is the first time we have refused to carry a person (and I truly hope the last)."

Strange.

"If this post was a chess game, I wonder who would be holding the advantage about now?" - well, I'm a disinterested bystander, as I doubt I would ever have cruised with Pandaw. It seems to me that Paul Strachan has said nastier things about Tangata than Tangata has said about Paul, so I'm inclined to side with Tangata. I give particular weight to the fact that Tangata has cruised with Pandaw before, if he were a first-time customer I might feel differently.

I find this thread fascinating. The original report was interesting, but the subsequent banning and inquiries have added much spice to the dish. I'm glad that the responses are reasoned and attacks are absent, justified or not.

Dogster-I admit that my remarks concerning opinion and conjecture do not always control my words or actions. I'm better off when they do.

In truth, I'd like to meet both Tangata and Mr. Strachan. Together would be best, but separately would still provide a great deal of insight. Maybe we can seduce them to attend the Boson GTG. They may not have Dogster's difficulties.

This is all starting to sound like an Agatha Christie thriller or a game of Cluedo! For the record I am not Tangata, I do not know Dogster but yes, I am brand new to Fodor. I made my initial contribution because I returned from the maiden trip up the Rajang feeling that the blurb on the trip was misleading and I wanted other potential travellers to be aware of this. Little did I know this post would still be going! Gunpowder treason and plot! I would like to make it very clear that I had a memorable trip. I enjoyed the company of many of the passengers on board and found the places we visited fascinating. The interest that all the communities showed in us and the Pandaw and the welcome we received was very special with the piquancy of a maiden voyage in a part of the world unused to tourism (and there are not too many places like this left). However, I still maintain that this trip was not properly researched and that there was a lack of transparency when things did go wrong. This was not some on-the-cheap backpacker trip ( aka Uncle Tans Jungle Tours in Borneo) but a luxury cruise; the type of trip for which people might spend years saving.

There were many on board who were bitterly disappointed in not seeing any wildlife or getting anywhere near the Baleh river and its jungle shores which was really the start of Redmon O'Hanlon's adventure, 'Into the Heart of Borneo" and was meant to be one of the highlights of this cruise. On any cruise, I guess, you deal with the reality rather than the mystique created in the brochures or in your own imagination for that matter, but I still maintain that on this trip Pandaw let their passengers down. Many things were beyond their control but many shouldn't have been if they had put in place the necessary co - ordination ahead of the maiden voyage. I think management got a rude shock on just how badly things can go wrong and it was left to the ever creative and good humoured guides to save their bacon on many occasions. It looks like problems of access are now being addressed with speed boats and new co-ordinators, but, of course, no money back guarantee for the guinea pigs! ( Surprise, surpise as Tawtha would say!)
As for Tangata's behaviour on board, well I did not take part in after dinner, round-the-bar drinks and maybe this is where mutiny was fomented? Who knows? I didn't personally become friendly with Tangata nor did I enter into long grumbles with other passengers although it would have been easy to do so. Maybe Tangata did and maybe Paul overheard him? Paul is clearly rattled although he did a pretty good job of hiding the fact during his time with us, thank goodness ! I could start to make a few educated guesses on why he might feel so strongly, but what's the point? More unsubstantiated theories from the mystery (and new) Somersault! What a pity Redmon O'Hanlon was not with us. His skill in making comedy out of adversity would have been a real asset on the cruise itself and no doubt on this post!
But would he have contributed to this fledgling thriller? I doubt it - better things to do with his time, I'm sure! So let's leave Pandaw and Paul and his crew to make sure that future cruises up the Rajang deliver the goods.
To the maiden voyagers on the Ganges- Bon Voyage! Take your sun screen, your swimming togs and your sense of humour!

Now about cruising - has anyone been on an Aurora cruise? Their maiden trip to Papua New Guinea next year sounds intriguing......and no I am not a tout for this company just a woman (now there's a clue!) drawn to explore. Let's all move on to the next adventure!

'...I could start to make a few educated guesses on why he might feel so strongly...'

Aha! The Heart of Darkness. Someone take somersault out and ply her with gin. Come back and tell us everything she said. I'm not worried about 'unsubstantiated theories' from the only objective witness. Give us the dirt.

come somersault, as Dog says give us the dirt.....

Somersault, whomever you are, you have tumbled into my heart by mentioning Redmond O'Hanlon. You're the kind of passenger I'd gladly travel along with, I can tell. But do give us the dirt. And your criticism's should be heeded by Pandaw. First lesson: Never believe a blurb. Second lesson: Never join a shakedown cruise without a sense of humor.

Marija, I did find that travel agent paragraph very intriguing. I wish Tangata woudl reappear here and explain.

Kathie: >>Who knows?<< >>there must be a lot of glue we are missing...<< Exactly.

Dogster, hah!, I am doubled over with laughter at the Scotsman bit. (I am married to one, though he's far removed from the old country. Still, I am ever mocking him: "I willna spend anotherrrr penny!") I agree we have to take Strachan at face value, particularly because of the lost sporran.

I have e-mailed a reply to Paul, and asked who Tawtha is. He has replied. Anybody interested in me posting those?

Don't hold out on us!

LA-you must divulge all information. The Black and White guy never received a response. You are our only source.

Of course, Somersault can provide us with more eyewitness insight. Our interest has been piqued.

Definitely, the more info the better. But I think this (from somersault) is the most significant of the recent input:

"I still maintain that on this trip Pandaw let their passengers down. Many things were beyond their control but many shouldn't have been if they had put in place the necessary co - ordination ahead of the maiden voyage"

Yes, Thursday it probably should have gone better. But as we know, getting managing people in Asia can be like herding cats.

ok, here's my reply to Strachan:

>>Dear Paul,

Many thanks for the personal reply. I can't second guess your decision because I wasn't there, and as I pointed out on Fodor's, I'm always skeptical of anonymous posters because it's impossible to tell who's who, and what the truth is.

I do note, however, that another poster (Somersault), and maybe a second, think Tangata was balanced and got the general tenor of the cruise, with it's inevitable 1first cruise glitches, right. And that Tangata was no more grouchy -- and certainly not disputive--than the rest of the passengers. I would have thought at least one fellow passenger would have jumped on the thread and described his bad behavior. That's a small boat, and it can't have been a secret.

You also say that Tangata was not blacklisted because of Fodor's, yet you lead off your e-mail with a charge of malicious intent on the Fodor's poster part. In fact, one Tawtha, did defend Pandaw.

There's no point in getting into a pissing contest over this, but his post did not read as malicious by any means and actually made me more intrigued by Pandaw. I am perfectly adult and able to discern that there are hiccups on these virgin launches. So, probably, are others who would be your potential customers.

I really do appreciate your reply. One last question? Are you in fact Tawtha?

Regards,>>

Leslie

And here's his reply to mine:

>>Dear Leslie,

Thanks for your considered reply.
I have not actually looked at Fodor's for some 2 weeks - nor do I intend to!
Tawtha works in the company.


All regards,


Paul Strachan
Pandaw Cruises<<

Dogster was right. Maybe.

Here's a document on the pandaw site by Tawtha, so that part checks out:

http://www.pandaw.com/downloads/documents/Burma%20Cyber%20Revolution.pdf

Boy, Marija, that fascinating piece only makes me think that Tawtha IS Strachan. Obviously written by a well-educated, articulate Brit who's lived there for years and who knows lots. Is there such a person at Pandaw other than Paul that fits that bill?

Who's read Strachan's book and can say whether the writing style is similar? Why would someone in the travel business, dependant in some part by the kindness of the generals, write such a piece? And wouldn't this piece dissuade potential Pandaw customers (like my husband, who is the highly hesitant to leave his hard-earned US$ in despots' hands)from visiting Burma? (And has the Western press really gotten the Burma story so wrong?)

I can guess at some of the answers. But please, someone, educate me. Dogster?

This is my last post. The document on the Pandaw site proves beyond doubt that Tawtha is NOT Paul. That is a relief. It is someone else who was on board who was highly knowledgeable about Burma and yes was working for the company - part time I think. I do not have any "dirt" to reveal. I can only assume that in the judgement of Tawtha, Tangata's complaints to other passengers on board went too far and unsettled some on boardand maybe spoilt their cruise ( sorry no salacious gossip I'm afraid). Whether this judgement was correct is open to debate but I am sure Paul would have respected Tawtha's point of view. As you can see from his piece on Burma this is a very astute observer of the political scene in Burma and no doubt also of the effect one passenger can have on others on a 9 day cruise! I'm thankful I did not get caught up in all of this on board andratherregret getting caught up here!. In my opinion Tangata meant no harm as can be seen from his constructive criticisms in his diary here but of course when tensions are running high as they were at times on board among the crew having a "grumpy old man" ( sorry Tangata!) carping and giving his considered opinion of how things should be done better would be very hard to take and may well have unsettled some passengers more than I realised. Farewell!

Don't go away Somersault. And thanks for the valuable insight.

Hey Somersault, i hope you will still post on other topics?

I've been following along here with much interest, since I am booked on a Pandaw trip for next winter.

The reported "banning" of a potential passenger is, indeed, worrisome. But has that person actually been "banned?" One possibility is that he or she is no longer receiving invitations for free fam trips from Pandaw. Very different than having a paying client be refused the opportunity to book a trip, which appears to be the case with Tangata, who is apparently a "normal" paying passenger.

LA - I haven't done all my sleuthing yet. But I can add my two cents to this:

'...Why would someone in the travel business, dependant in some part by the kindness of the generals, write such a piece? ...and has the Western press really gotten the Burma story so wrong?'

I've been searching fruitlessly for some remarkable pieces written by Paul S from the ground immediately after the Cyclone in Burma. The view from the ground is markedly different from the universally accepted picture of things inside Burma. The posts have disappeared from the Pandaw website, I think.

I've spent ten weeks all up in Burma. Paul's take on what is really going on, balanced with more than a few secrets I uncovered, none of which I'll go into here, is real food for serious thought.

Of course it's possible that the international media-think on Burma may have it wrong. Of course. lol. Let's consider the sources. Would you call them balanced? As I've learnt, on many occasions for example, the BBC World 'clandestine, undercover, on the ground' reporting is fatuous and highly misleading. IMHO.

Of course, what we hear is correct but it is scarcely the WHOLE picture, laced as it is with secrets, history, corruption, incompetence and multi-national intrigue. Paul S is highly aware of this world. He should be listened to.

Actually, secretly, I wonder if we really want to listen. Our simplistic politics are far easier to deal with. The story of how he has negotiated the generals is his to tell. The story of what happened after Cyclone Nargis is his to tell.

So, LA - keep your open mind receptive. The bigger picture is more fascinating than you know. And, of course, the more you know, the more remarkable P.S.'s journey through it becomes. Remember here, I'm absolutely no expert - but I do know enough to know stuff is going on - as does everybody. Pandaw was by no means my window into Burma. I have/had many. Ten weeks is a long time.

Did I tell you I once met one of the generals? lol. True. Complete happenstance and really odd. Kathie knows the story.

Yes, that was quite a story, dogster.

Remind us, please.

Yes, dogster, remind us. Or point us to a link.

I should read Strachan's book. But someone should write a really good biography (Redmond O'Hanlon?). What a remarkable book! Unlike Somersault, I gather you think Paul wrote that essay.

Speaking as someone who knows a wee bit about journalism, the foreign press (esp. in the U.S.) has a really hard time getting into the complexities and wackiness of a place like Burma. The government is opaque. Journalists aren't welcome. Sources are either suspect or nil. News outlets here don't much care (because readers don't care) about foreign news, except when there's, say, a cyclone or, much sexier, a tsunami. Then reporters are parachuted in for a few days to skim the surface, then rush back out.

This story has more twists and turns than a trip down the Rajang! But, alas, I'm growing tired of this cruise and may have to get off.

I don't really have any insights to add, just wanted to say how much I've loved the ups and downs of this post. The well-written analysis you've all done on this matter is honestly riveting, and visiting this post has become a daily pleasure for me over the last couple of weeks.

I so appreciate all the time you each take to respond to things you are passionate about. If anyone were to ask me why do I love Fodors so much I would point the person to this post (in addition to a couple of my favorite dogster sagas, of course!)

Leslie, ,I have two of Strachan's books on my "Burma Bookshelf." Once I've finished collecting and reading Burma books for this trip, I'll post an annotated list.

Dogster, I think there are plenty of us who want more of the Burma story. I'm interested in whatever you or Paul or anyone else has to say... not that I will swallow it whole, but because I think it will augment my perspective on Burma.

Thanks Kathie, that would be helpful. I look forward to hearing about your adventure too.

Paul Strachan's thoughts on the Ganges Maiden Voyages

Now both the upstream and downstream voyages are over, I am taking stock and trying to work out if they were a success or not. My own feelings are mixed as are the evaluations and reports we receive from the intrepid who came with us. Some say it was brilliant and others are asking for their money back. Where do I begin? For my full report please refer to the Pandaw website and our blogs page.

Is only Paul allowed to comment on the trip? Will our own secret agent be muzzled?

I didn't see your last comment, Marija - lol lol lol.

Not being one to bite the hand that fed him, it's an exercise in EXTREME self-restraint. However, additional salt having recently been poured into the still gaping wound, I do feel a trip report coming on.

Tine to change your screen name to tantalus, maybe?

Fabulous name, thursday. Perfect. What a story tantalus could tell.

This thread is too good to let it quietly disappear into the ether. Thanks Dogster for reviving it. I'm not so sure Paul would agree.

Well, all the credit should really go to Marija. I can add one final, definitive clue. The Walrus was Paul. Goo goo gajoo.

I was always convinced the walrus was John. Imagine all the people living their lives away...

'I told you 'bout the walrus and me, man
You know that we're as close as can be, man
Well, here's another clue for you all;
The walrus was Paul!

The Beatles, "Glass Onion"

I seem to remember a large question of identity concerning the walrus that reached epic proportions. This may be another part of my memory loss from the 600's, but it's a distinct memory. Perhaps one of our elderly non-mammalian posters can chime in on this.

I'm assuming that you did play some of their tunes backwards.

Speaking of walruses,

The time has come
To talk of many things:
Of Pandaw ships--and deadly fumes--
Of lethal chickens--and disease--
And why the Dog was boiling mad--
And why imposters us do tease...

Now Gpanda, the more you ramble on about the Beatles, the more you subtract from the brilliancy of my clue. You should just leave it, hanging there like a diamond in the ether, ready to attract those with eyes to see.

And yes, Marija - I quite agree.

Okay Dogster. Forget the fly-by-night Beatles, let's move on to a really influential group like the Monkees. In "The Last Train to Clarksville" who is meeting whom at the station?

On January 1st 2010 Paul Strachan officially retires and removes himself from the relentless daily horror of dealing with all things Pandaw. I think it only correct that we wait till Elvis has left the building.

So let's not distract from the bulk of this remarkable saga by this gibber. This is one of those posts we should all be proud of. Come back tangata.

Yes, please come back to us Tangata.

I got the riddle, Dog. But then I already knew that. I've got to hand it to Strachan. What an impossible dreamer, and romantic.

Just read this thread after reading Dogster's March 20. Wow! Amazing! Now I can understand Dogster's "long thought" before his March report. Good thing I was not aboard, I would not have been so understanding, forgiving. I would hae been the first on the banned list.

I take strong objection to LAleslie's inference that I am a "hack". However I guess he is entitled to his opinion, just as I am entitled to mine.

I would point out that Paul S. objected to my "Abandon ship" story, carried last year in the influential cruise magazine "Cruise Passenger", but still agreed that I had every right, as a journalist, to write my Upper Irrawaddy report as I saw fit.

My earlier reports on the Mekong and the Brahmaputra cruises were factual.

BTW..I have been absent for the past 10 months because at 5.30pm on Xmas day last year I suffered a minor heart attack and was admitted to hospital. I was discovered thbat Imreq

whoops (Continued) It was discovered that I required a triple bypass and would be hospitalised for 7-8 days. It ended up being 4 months in 4 different hospitals as I was one of the 5% of unlucky bastards who also suffer a stroke while undergoing the bypass surgery.

But I survived!!! Though sadly my typing ability has been affected....

Welcome back, Mitch. Sorry to hear of your medical misadventures. Impaired typing should not prevent you from posting here as many have that disability

Welcome home Mitch. You can compete with my bad typing.

thanks, everyone.

Any news what's going on a Pandaw?
According to their website many cruises cancelled; friends of mine just returned from a Borneo trip and commenting on bad service and food.
Has it something to do with their management change?
I saw their Singaporean owner is not anymore in their team?
I was considering doing the Borneo (after Mekong), but got some doubts now.

Exactly where on the website does it mention many cancelled cruises? Give us the link. Or are you talking about India? If so, better catch up. That's old news.

It doesn't say they are cancelled, but if you have a look at the departure days, you will notice that Borneo has only one departure a months, on the Mekong river Tonle Pandaw has only three departures scheduled.

Here's a complete list of Pandaw Mekong cruises from now till eternity - with availability.
http://www.pandaw.com/info.php?page=dates&l=&p=2232&s=0&h=1

Here's the Rajang:
http://www.pandaw.com/info.php?page=dates&l=&p=1864&s=0&h=1

I'm struggling to reach the conclusion that anything is happening to Pandaw at all.

As for Mr. Singapore - a manager, not an owner, by the way - by the look of it he lasted about a year. Stuff happens. I somehow don't think the company is collapsing. Au contraire - I suspect it just got stronger.

ttt

Ahhh - the post that eill never die. I note the Borneo cruises are closing soon. Last chance...

I just want to bring this splendid, gobsmacking post back into the light. Of course, you realise that a discussion like this is virtually impossible in the 'new' Fodors.

Why was I rereading it? I was thinking of dropping everything and jumping onboard on January 10 for one of the three last Rajang cruises - not because I think it'll be very good but because once Pandaw goes my opportunity to see not much at all in Borneo has disappeared for good.

As it's now January 8 I'll have to book it, flights from BKK to KL to Sibu and stuff in the next 24 hours - or less.

Whaddya think?

[I suppose this post will be deleted as per normal as I've dared to pass comment on our schoolmasters... then if I mention being deleted, that'll be deleted too. Soon I'll be deleted. Better reply fast.]

Well, I think you should go. Then you can post your own "gobsmacking" report. I look forward to it.

BTW, while you are in Borneo, why not fly to Lahad Datu (via Kota Kinabalu) and visit the Borneo Rainforest Lodge?

There has been a shortage of dogster TRs lately, would love to read this one. Carpe diem!

Well, I've just discovered that it'll take eight hours flying [plus three hours airport shlep] to get there - then the same coming back - all for five days on a muddy river. It's all looking a lot less fabulous.

In fact, it's looking damn stupid. I think we'll put this great idea down to too much beer.

Alas! I'm sorry that I will never get to read dogster's version of this trip report.

I seem to remember that your best travel ideas occur when you are drinking wine. You might try that before you give up on the idea.

Obviously you haven't drunk Indian wine, Kathie! Stick with the beer, dogster, and tell us about your cruises, please.