SO OFF WE GO...

Our Lufthansa flight was scheduled to depart at 9:50 PM so we left Avon, Connecticut in our rented Toyota Land Cruiser at 4 PM, giving us more than an hour of wiggle room if we hit traffic along the way. We needed every bit of it. While the most direct way to JFK from the north is taking the Van Wyck Expressway across Long Island, we usually take the Cross Island Parkway to the Belt Parkway instead to avoid the traffic. This time it was a big mistake. Due to an accident, the Cross Island was completely shut down and we were rerouted to the Van Wyck via the Grand Central Parkway. Traffic was a mess from the time we arrived on Long Island until we arrived at National to drop off our vehicle. From National we had an easy train ride to our terminal. After all of that, we arrived at the Lufthansa check-in almost exactly 2 hours before our flight time.

After a smooth check-in and a bit of a wait at security, we proceeded to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge. The lounge was small but pleasant with a decent selection of snacks and drinks. While I had already enjoyed a big sandwich before the drive from Connecticut, it was nice to relax with a couple of glasses of white wine before our flight. The JFK leg to Frankfurt was on a 747-400 with business class downstairs only. The seats were lie-flat but angled at 170 degrees - not ideal but comfortable enough that we slept through most of the 7-hour flight. We spent our layover in Frankfurt in the business class lounge. I expected it to be crowded but it was reasonably comfortable and our time there passed quickly. Our flight to Delhi was on a brand new 747-8i, the world’s longest passenger aircraft. We were in business class upstairs. On this aircraft, the seats were completely lie-flat and, unlike United 747’s, there is overhead storage upstairs. This flight was also 7 hours but our departure was delayed due to a passenger with a medical problem - we slept a bit more, read our books and enjoyed the food and beverage service.

On our last two stops in Delhi we had gone through the old international terminal and the domestic terminal. This time we arrived at the sparkling new international terminal. Immigration and baggage claim went smoothly. We were met by our hotel driver and were whisked off to the Courtyard Gurgaon, about a 20 minute drive from the airport. Check-in to the hotel was quick but by the time we settled into bed it was 4 AM. We awoke in time to enjoy the big breakfast buffet in the main restaurant. While not as extensive as some of the breakfast buffets we have experienced in Asia, it was certainly adequate. Because we were staying on the executive floor, breakfast was complimentary, as were the airport transfers.

Jeane wanted to do some shopping while in Delhi so we arranged for a hotel driver. When we were here in 2005, Jeane had purchased jewelry at 2 stores in the Hyatt and Oberoi hotel arcades. She had also purchased some garments at the Santushti Complex. Our plan was to have the driver take us to all 3 places. The 2 arcades were a disappointment: Regency Jewelers at the Hyatt was not open and Ravissant was no longer located at the Oberoi. The fully enclosed Santushti Complex is located near the diplomatic enclave in Delhi and is a really nice collection of boutiques. I had brought my Kindle with me so I just sat in a chair outside and read while Jeane perused the shops. It was a pleasant sunny afternoon with temperatures starting to climb into the 80’s. Jeane spent about an hour there but came up empty-handed.

We had one more stop before returning to the hotel. Jeane needed an adjustment to her sunglasses. Our driver recommended Khan Market where we found an optician to help us. While the technician there worked on Jeane’s glasses, we wandered in and out of the various shops. Jeane found some cards that she liked and purchased several boxes. When we returned to the optician, Jeane’s glasses were ready - no charge for the adjustment. Our driver returned us to the hotel. We had been out about 4 or 5 hours. The cost for the car and driver was about $78, including taxes for up to 8 hours.

Jeane and I relaxed in the room for a while and then headed to the executive lounge for drinks and hearty hors d'oeuvres which satisfied our need for dinner that evening. We slept unevenly that night as our bodies still had not adjusted to the time difference. The bed in our 2-room suite was quite comfortable, however.

Our flight to Bhutan was scheduled to depart at 10:50 AM so we headed to the airport at 8 AM. In spite of our early arrival (Druk Air check-in was not yet open), there were 2 groups ahead of us in the queue for business class. Once check-in started, it was a slow process. Passports, e-tickets and Visa Letters had to be examined. Passengers are limited to 1 carry-on each, even in business class. We managed to carry on 3 bags between us because of Jeane’s camera equipment. We wanted to sit on the left side of the aircraft for the better views but the groups ahead of us made that impossible. After a ridiculously intrusive bag search at security, we finally made it to the ITC contract lounge where we were told it was a 10-minute walk to the gate.

Now I am somewhat embarrassed to say that we lingered a while too long in the lounge and boarding had already begun when we set out for the gate. If we had walked all the way, it would have been a LOT more than 10 minutes - this is a huge airport and the gate was almost at the end of the terminal. Fortunately, the driver of one of those carts that transports disabled people offered us an unsolicited lift to our gate. Now I am even more embarrassed, but I did not refuse and I am glad we didn’t. It was a looooong way to the gate.

We finally boarded the aircraft. Business class was more like United Economy Plus: 3-3 seating with extra legroom and an empty middle seat. The food and wine were plentiful, however and it was only a 2-1/2 hour flight. We were able to see Mt. Everest just before we landed but it was impossible to take a photo since we were on the “wrong” side of the plane. The views of the Himalayas were absolutely spectacular.

Next: Arriving in Bhutan

I've been looking forward to your report, Craig. Great start!

Fab start Craig.

The hard part was knowing which impressive peak was Everest. I thought they all were but a mountain climber near me kept giving the correct names. They were all great.
Craig...what about that landing!! Row/ridge after row/ridge of high peaks to fly over and then find the pass into the airport. VEry exciting! I will never see the movie "Flight".

Good start Craig. Look forward to more and your pictures!

How exciting to see Mt. Everest! Can't wait to hear more...

Nice and prompt after a comprehensive live report - Gpanda would have been so proud.

Bhutan has long been on my radar because some friends went in the 80s and met the king (father of the current king). My friends ended up hosting a party here in LA for assorted royalty plus the archery team, who were in town for the Olympics. The whole entourage did seem like the happiest people on earth and I'm sorry I didn't take them up on their invitation to visit then, when it was a mere $80 a day.

So is everyone as happy as they say there are? Are there still no traffic lights in the entire country? And...should we go there next? Looking forward to your report.

Waiting for more!

i can't seem to find your trip report??

Looking forward to more as Bhutan is on my radar also.

dumb me, i thought i was posting above on your original thread.

great start. great comprehensive info as usual.. relax and give us every tid-bit.... and is it worth $300 ea per day+++

Yes agree it's a nice fact filled start. It may just be me but I don't sense the excitement you had before leaving. Anxious to read how it all went and have the same question as Bob if Bhutan was worth the expense. Guess we will just have to wait to find out.

Aloha!

crosscheck - I will address happiness, and in particular "Gross National Happiness" shortly. There are no traffic lights anywhere in the country.

Bob - it is $280 per person per day and includes hotels, transportation, entrance fees, guide, driver and meals. 35% of the tariff goes to the government for the betterment of the people. The only thing that is not included are beverages at meal times. Beverage prices are pretty uniform throughout the country: fruit juice or bottled water $1, soft drinks $2, beer $3 and wine $7. At the breakfast buffets there is usually one type of juice offered (different each day: orange, mango, apple etc.) We always had complimentary bottled water in our vehicle and in our hotel rooms. Sometimes we had to buy extra at mealtime for coffee and brushing teeth.

Bob and HT - Was it worth it? You might have to shift your paradigm a bit but yes, I think it was worth it...

FIRST DAY IN BHUTAN: PARO TO THIMPHU

While many have commented on the harrowing landing at Paro Airport, I didn’t really notice much besides the aircraft banking a couple times before we touched down on the single landing strip. As we deplaned, it was obvious that the airport is in a valley - mountains all around plus clear blue skies with temps in the high 60’s. The flight lasted 2½ hours and with Bhutan ½ hour ahead of Delhi, we arrived about 2 in the afternoon. Needless to say, there is no jetway here, so we simply walked to the small terminal. I snapped a photo of the aircraft before we went inside. Immigration was a breeze since our entry into Bhutan had been preapproved months ago. We were asked if we were importing any cigarettes (no) since they are subject to duty for foreigners (and illegal for locals).

We passed by the duty-free shop, having enjoyed a much better selection in Delhi. Our bags came quickly and we headed to the foreign exchange window. I changed $200, knowing that I would eventually need more. Jeane changed $60, which turned out to be way too little for her. US$100 notes receive a preferred rate. The going rate is the same as for the Indian Rupee, about 50 Ngultrum (nu) per US Dollar. The exchange process was very informal. We were not asked for our passports nor were we provided with receipts.

We exited the terminal and were immediately greeted by our guide, Sonam who lead us to the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado SUV (similar to the Lexus GX series marketed in the US) that would be our primary mode of transportation for the next 11 days. He introduced us to our driver Dorji, who helped him load our bags into our vehicle.

Our first stop that afternoon was the National Museum. Originally housed in the watch tower for Paro Dzong (fort), it was damaged in the 2009 earthquake and now is located behind the watch tower in an attractive new structure. The museum serves as a good introduction to Bhutan with displays of ancient armour, textiles and Thangka paintings. Sonam enhanced our visit by pointing out the most significant artifacts. His English was clear and easy to understand. From the museum grounds we enjoyed a good view of the Paro valley and the river that runs through it.

Afterwards we set out for Thimphu, the nation's capitol, a 2-hour drive from Paro. The road between the two towns is good, and by good I mean that it is fully paved with a lane in each direction. As we headed further east in Bhutan we found that this was usually not the norm - more on this later. The drive gave us our first taste of the Bhutanese countryside. One of the first things we noticed was the red chilies drying on the metal roofs of people’s homes. Chilies are one of the two primary ingredients in Bhutanese “cuisine”, the other being cheese.

We arrived at our hotel, Peaceful Resort after passing through the main part of Thimphu and driving upward from town for about 15 minutes. Formerly located in a quiet area (hence the name “Peaceful”), it is now surrounded by new construction, the result of recent population growth in Thimphu. Sonam handled our check-in to the hotel. Afterwards, he and Dorji carried our bags to our bright and spacious room (#8) on the 2nd floor. We were pleased that the room had a king bed, a balcony and plenty of places to store our belongings for the next 2 nights. Sonam informed us that dinner would be served from 7 to 9 PM and that breakfast would be served from 7 to 9 AM. With a couple of exceptions, this was the schedule at every place we stayed. Sonam also told us that Kencho would be joining us for dinner that evening and that he would meet us the next day at 9 AM to show us around Thimphu.

At 7 we were notified that Kencho had arrived, so we headed downstairs to what would be the first of many buffet dinners. As was typical for most of the places we stayed, there was a big table set up for a tour group plus smaller ones for individuals, couples, etc. Most of our buffet meals were not memorable - usually a chicken or pork dish (bad cuts), a mixed veggie dish (potatoes, green beans, carrots, cauliflower etc.), a rice dish and the national staple - chilies and cheese. A dessert of fruit or ice cream was usually served after the main meal. A server comes by and takes orders for beverages - juice, soft drinks or beer. Most places also offered a limited selection of cocktails and/or wines.

Our first meeting with Kencho was wonderful, in spite of the lackluster food. She comes from a prominent local family. Her father is in the construction business. She is single (mid to late 30’s?) and lives with her parents. She has a brother (black sheep of the family) who lives and works in New York City and a sister who is the equivalent of a senator in the Bhutanese government. The sister and her family also live with the parents but in a separate part of their home. We talked about the travel industry in Bhutan and about the changes that were taking place in the country. The time went by very quickly and we agreed to meet again for lunch the next day.

Jeane and I were extremely tired as our jet lag had not completely gone away. We hit the sack right after dinner. I had about 4 solid hours of sleep before waking to the sound of dogs barking. We were warned this might happen and I came prepared with ear plugs. They didn’t help much. Jeane and I both tossed and turned but I think we managed a full night’s sleep, in spite of the noise. Thimphu was the only place where barking dogs were a problem.

Next: Our day in Thimphu

I'm laughing about the chilies and cheese. Glad the barking dogs didn't follow you all over Bhutan! Enjoyed reading this latest installment.

How interesting! Looking forward to more....

Enjoying all the details! I've found a sleep machine app for my phone that is more helpful than earplugs. Barking dogs can be annoying!

I'm taking a break from packing to catch up with your report.

Was your hotel room heated? I seem to remember reports of very cold rooms in Bhutan.

It sounds like the food in Bhutan has not improved... Is the food that the locals eat spicy? Is it only tourist food that is bland?

Really enjoying your trip report!
Looking forward to more.

Kathie, we had an electric heater in our room in Thimphu that was more than adequate. Temps were sometimes in the 30's at night but we were always fine. I'll try to remember to report the heating facilities at each of our destinations.

The food, especially early on was not great, although the lunches we had with Kencho were quite good. The chilies and cheese offered at most buffets was spicy (but not as spicy as the locals like it) however much of the food at the buffets was bland.

I actually felt that we ate well for the most part, as you will see as my report evolves...

Day 2: Thimphu

I started my day with coffee on our balcony while Jeane slept in a bit. It must have been 15 to 20 years ago that I purchased a Braun travel coffee maker and it has served me well over that time. Unfortunately you can no longer buy one. From what I heard, hotel coffee is weak - probably instant. After coffee, I showered, Jeane got up and we went down to the restaurant for the standard buffet breakfast - scrambled or fried eggs (no choice), toast with butter and jam, fruit juice and coffee or tea. Sonam was waiting for us at 9 and we headed to our first stop, the dental clinic at the “modern” hospital in Thimphu. I say modern because as Sonam explained to us, there are two types of medicine practiced in Bhutan (and paid for by the Government): modern and traditional. Sonam told us he prefers modern medicine because it is “quicker”. Anyway, as some of you know, Jeane is a dentist and I thought it would be interesting for her to visit a dental clinic. I asked Kencho to set it up and now we were going to meet with the Chief Administrator of the clinic. It took awhile for Sonam to track him down at the hospital, but after we found him, we spent about 45 minutes comparing techniques and taking a tour of the facility. Without going into excruciating detail, it suffices to say that dentistry in Bhutan is pretty much up-to-date. The Chief Administrator was intelligent and articulate. It was obvious that he had accomplished much during his tenure at the hospital. We finished our conversation with a friendly discussion about the pros and cons of “Obamacare”. Since he functions in an environment where all health care is paid for by the government, you can guess what his feelings on the topic were.

Next was a visit to the school of arts and painting where youth spend 4 to 6 years learning to reproduce (mostly) religious paintings and sculpture. It was fascinating to watch with lots of photo opportunities. There were many tourists here but fortunately the school is only open to visitors for a couple of hours each morning.

We visited the traditional hospital next. Currently, it is simply a place where the locals can obtain herbal medicines for their maladies. There is a small display area where tourists learn how the medicines are made and distributed.

Our next stop was the Folk Heritage Museum which is essentially a replica of a century-old 3-story village farm house that provided a glimpse into traditional Bhutanese life. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed here.

Our last stop before lunch was the Textile Museum. The tour there starts with a short video on the making of a gho, the traditional garment worn by Bhutanese women. In the museum itself, there were traditional weavers demonstrating their techniques and displays of some older garments. No photography allowed here either.

Our lunch with Kencho was at Khamsa Coffee in the main part of town. Kencho had pre-ordered both veggie and meat dumplings with chili sauce for us. I ordered a cafe mocha and Jeane ordered tea. Jeane tried the dumplings but opted for a tuna sandwich instead after tasting cilantro in them. We continued our friendly conversation with Kencho. There was much to talk about - Bhutanese politics being one of the topics.

After lunch, Kencho accompanied Jeane and I to several shops in town. Jeane picked up some small items but the shopping wasn’t great. At one point I ducked out to take a photo of the policeman at the main intersection in the center of town. Apparently the Government tried to replace the policeman with a traffic light at one time but the locals resisted and the policeman was brought back. After the shopping was finished, we parted ways with Kencho. She invited us to join her for pizza when we passed through Thimphu again near the end of our tour. We told her we’d be delighted.

Our final stop was the 17th century Thimphu Dzong which was built as a fort but now houses government offices and the central monk body. We spent some time photographing some of its unique architectural features and visited the small temple inside. This was the first of many temples we would visit. At each one we had to remove our shoes and refrain from taking photographs.

As we were driving back to the hotel, Sonam asked us if we wanted to eat dinner in town that evening. After considering the limited options and the time it would take to drive back and forth, we decided to pass and go with the buffet again at the hotel. Sonam told us that we needed to get off to an earlier start the next day - 8:30 AM. Since we would have to be packed and ready to go, I was doubly glad that we didn’t head into town for dinner.

The hot water had run out on Jeane during her shower in the morning and when I followed her afterward the water was absolutely frigid. So we decided that for the remainder of the tour, Jeane would shower at night and I would shower in the morning. We never ran out of hot water after that. That night there was one dog that barked continuously - just never stopped. We did not sleep well at all. The Peaceful Resort was anything but peaceful...

Next: the Takin Preserve, our first hike, the weekend vegetable market and the drive to Punakha

Great report, Craig. What an interesting vaca destination!!! More, please.
Carol

Welcome back, Craig. I'm enjoying your report so far and will continue to follow. Have to admit though, I've never considered visiting Bhutan, but you've piqued my interest.

loving all the detail... based on the reporting thus far i will visit Bhutan only thru your comprehensive eyes.

Following along, Craig.

This is great. Wonderful detail. I am sitting here in Boston quite bothered by the incessantly barking dog in Bhutan -- that's how vivid the experience is as reported. Keep it coming!

Craig, have you read "Radio Shangra-La" by Lisa Napoli? Your descriptions of chilies and cheese are similar to hers.

Bob, its no surprise that you won't be visiting Bhutan. For one thing, there isn't a single swimming pool in the entire country. Read on if you need further convincing. We actually discussed your travel style with Kencho to see if she could offer an itinerary that would fit. She responded rather firmly that Thailand would be a more suitable destination for you and Karen...

indiana - both Jeane read the excellent "Radio Shangri-La" before we went. Two other books worth reading are "Married to Bhutan" by Linda Leaming and "Beyond the Sky and the Earth, a Journey into Bhutan" by Jamie Zeppa.

i bet they don't have king beds either. we need showers both morning and night if desired... we hate dinner and lunch buffets.. i hate hikes. we have mountains in NE... just drive around CT.

what flavor smoothie do they offer? Yak.

Day 3: Thimphu to Punakha

Jeane and I managed to wake up, eat breakfast, finish packing and checkout by 8:30. We started our day with a drive to the Takin Preserve, which was just 5 minutes from our hotel. The takin is the national animal of Bhutan and is said to be a cross between a goat and a cow. The preserve was actually a small zoo at one time but in keeping with Bhutan’s environmental policies, the animals were all released into the wild. The takins however, decided they didn’t want to leave and roamed the streets of Thimphu looking for food. As a result, they were placed back into the large fenced in area where the animals were formerly kept. There were a half dozen of these odd-looking animals close enough to the fence to get some good photos. The government is in the process of building a visitors center and will eventually charge admission to the preserve.

After leaving the preserve, we had a half-hour drive to the trailhead for our first short hike. On the way, we stopped at an excellent viewpoint for taking photographs of the dzong we had visited the day before. Sonam had told us the day before that we needed shoes with good traction so we were prepared. Today’s hike took us uphill through shady forest to Tango Monastery. Since we had been in Bhutan for a couple of days, we were somewhat acclimated to the 8,000 foot altitude. But the trail was steep - we had to stop and rest several times along the way. We also took frequent water breaks as it is very easy to dehydrate in the dry air and higher altitude. Sonam carried Jeane’s camera equipment (and would continue to do so throughout the tour) so that helped. We saw just a few other tourists and some locals hiking that day.

It took us about an hour to reach the monastery, which was founded in the 12th century. The present structure was built in the 15th century by a character known in Bhutan as the “Divine Madman”. Tango currently functions as a university of Buddhist studies for about 300 monks and is the residence of an important young reincarnated lama. We visited the temple inside and Sonam explained Tango’s history in more detail. A couple of side notes - hats must be removed when visiting monasteries and shoes must be removed when entering temples. Also, photography is not allowed inside temples.

The 45 minute hike down was easier but the trail was slippery in places. We headed back to Thimphu for lunch at Edelweiss, a locally-owned restaurant. It offered the usual tourist buffet with a few other items (pasta and a sweet and sour dish). We were joined at our table by a young woman from New Zealand who had just arrived in Bhutan after 5 weeks in Nepal. She was only planning to spend a few days in Bhutan because of the cost and seemed disappointed by how modern Thimphu was. I shared with her that we were looking forward to moving on to the more rural and less modern parts of the country. We talked some more about her travels in Nepal and how she was enamored with the people there. The time went by quickly and soon Sonam appeared at our table, hinting that it was time to go.

Before heading out of Thimphu, we had one more stop - the Vegetable Weekend Market, which runs Friday to Sunday. Unlike most markets we have seen in Asia, this was the most organized, neatly laid out market we had ever seen - stall after stall of locals selling the same vegetables. I asked Sonam, a Thimphu resident, how do the people decide which stall to buy from? He replied that they check prices carefully and tend to buy from their friends (just like anywhere else, I suppose). There was a market next door where crafts and clothing were being sold. We spent some time there but made no purchases.

The drive to Punakha took about 2¾ hours on a fairly good road. Our average speed throughout Bhutan was about 30 km/hr (20 mph) so everything is relative. At about 45 minutes outside of Thimphu, we stopped at Dochu La, the first of 3 mountain passes we would encounter as we headed east. The views of the distant snow-capped Himalayas near the Bhutan-Tibet border were spectacular. There was a large array of prayer flags and a collection of several dozen stupas at the site. A good spot for photographs...

When we arrived at Meri Puensum Resort, the sun was just about to set. Sonam told us that the name of the hotel refers to the “family of 3” that runs it. We were quickly checked in and escorted along with our bags to room #101. The rooms at this hotel were laid out as a series of 2-story cottages. Our unit was on an upper floor some distance from the reception and the restaurant, ensuring a quiet stay. We were again happy that we had a very spacious room with a king bed and a little porch with a great view of the Punakha Valley. Since the room had no heater, Jeane requested one along with some extra towels which were brought quickly. Unlike our previous stay, there was no Wifi in our room. There was Wifi in the restaurant but it was maddeningly slow.

Sonam reminded us to wear shoes with good traction again for our hike the next day. He told us he wanted to get going at 8:30 AM again. I kind of groaned and he bid us good night. During what remained of the day, we relaxed in our room and had a not-so-memorable dinner.

Next: A wonderful hike, a beautiful dzong and the Temple of the Divine Madman

FAB!

Great report - keep it coming.
Bhutan is on my maybe list.

So good to read your report. But. Bob could go...the Uma in Paro has a lovely indoor pool.

Elainee, I stand corrected. Bob could just hang out at the Uma pool and drink yak smoothies...

Day 4: Punakha

After a really good night’s sleep, Jeane and I headed over to the restaurant for breakfast. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that we would be served a la carte and could order our eggs any way we wanted them. I ordered an omelet with “everything” and Jeane ordered scrambled. They arrived very quickly. Of course the other menu selections were limited to toast and jam, 1 kind of juice and tea or coffee. But sometimes its the little things that can make you happy...

We set out for our second hike promptly at 8:30. It was a 20-minute drive to the trailhead with a stop along the way where I took a nice photo of Punakha Dzong with the river junction in the foreground. The hike was uphill again to the recently built Khamsum Yueling Temple. We wouldn’t always be hiking in the shade this time, the reason for the early start. It turned out that this hike wasn’t nearly as difficult as the previous one and the views of the Punakha Valley at every turn were stunning. The water in the two rivers in the valley was a beautiful shade of blue which when set against the mountain backdrop made every photo a keeper.

It took us about 45 minutes to reach the temple. While there were 4 or 5 other tourists on the trail, we were the first to arrive. Sonam had to get one of the local monks to let us in. The temple has 3 levels plus an open rooftop that allowed more great views of the valley. It took 8 years to build the temple which was consecrated in 1999. The religious artwork inside was absolutely gorgeous. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed. It took us another 45 minutes to return to our vehicle after exploring the temple.

Our next stop was Punakha Dzong which is accessed by a bridge over 1 of the 2 rivers it abuts. This 17th century fort is widely considered to be the most beautiful dzong in all of Bhutan and over the years has been the victim of 4 fires and an earthquake. It has since been fully restored. Generally, the artwork in Bhutanese restorations is far more elaborate than what was done in the 17th century. Some posters have objected to this in previous reports but I am in favor of the modern restorations. First, these restorations provide employment for the numerous artisans who have trained for years at the arts school in Thimphu and second, even Bhutan can and should evolve in some ways. This all ties into Gross National Happiness, which I promise to talk about later in this report.

After visiting the Dzong we drove to the Chimi Lhakhang Cafeteria for a very bad buffet lunch. Chimi Lhakhang is the formal name for the Temple of the Divine Madman. The restaurant is located in a really nice setting with outdoor seating, overlooking rice fields, a small village and the temple in the distance. However, the selection of rice, veggies, chicken and chilies/cheese had been sitting for awhile and was lukewarm. Jeane smartly avoided the chicken but I had a small piece then thought the better of it. The next day I was feeling achy and from previous experience, I knew what that meant. Before going to bed that night I started the series of Ciprofloxacin that my travel doc prescribed for me. Problem solved - I felt much better the next morning and continued taking the Cipro as prescribed. Now I can hear Kathie groaning all the way from Seattle because I did two bad things: (1)I ate from a lukewarm buffet and (2)I took antibiotics somewhat indiscriminately.

It was a 20 minute walk to the temple from the restaurant. We stopped at a farmhouse along the way to have a peek inside and greet the elderly woman living there with her granddaughters. The Divine Madman is so-named because he revolted against orthodox Buddhism in the late 1400’s, teaching the common man that religion is an inner feeling and that one needn’t be an ordained monk. His sexual exploits were legendary. On account of this, he is believed to be a symbol of fertility and childless women go to this temple (built by a cousin in the Divine Madman’s honor) to be blessed.

The temple was the last stop of the day and we were actually able to return to the hotel and relax for a few hours prior to dinner. Sonam informed us that we would be departing at 8 the following morning as we had a lot of driving to do.

Next: A long drive with a stop in Trongsa

I think we ate in the same restaurant. But when we were there the fields had just been fertilized with natural fertilizer and there were giant flies everywhere which loved our food. We did not get sick since none of us ate anything. Good I brought granola bars and my daughter brought peanut butter and bread for the kids.
But the walk was very nice and the temple good. Was that where we were blessed with a penis (wooden)?

Barking dogs? Yak smoothies? Lukewarm buffets? Blessed by a wooden penis? Sounds like something out of Borat.

Elainee - there were flies in that restaurant when we were there too, although not as many as you experienced. The rice had just been harvested. We had g-bars but didn't think to eat them. If you went to any festivals you would have seen lots of folks - locals and tourists alike, being blessed with wooden phalluses - that part of my report will follow shortly. Chimi Lhakhang is a fertility temple so while we did not receive a blessing, it is likely your family could have been blessed there...

Who cares about flies when you have free cannabis!

To let everyone in on Hanuman's comment above, I recently posted a photo of a cannabis sativa plant on Facebook. Jeane and I were walking back from the Temple of the Divine Madman with our guide Sonam, who spotted the plant not far from the aforementioned restaurant...

Day 5: Punakha to the Bumthang Valley

We got up early to get ready for our 8 AM departure. While the restaurant “officially” opened at 7, breakfast was already being served when we arrived at 6:45 to use the Wifi. So we were able to get going a little before 8 AM. It was sad to leave as the weather here had been warm and pleasant with temps during the day in the 70's. From Punakha, we drove to the main road at Wangdue and headed east. Sonam joked that we were on Highway 1 and that when we returned on the same road, we would be on Highway 2. As I explained earlier, this was not much of a highway at all. For most of the drive the road had only one lane. So any time we encountered another vehicle, one of us had to pull over to allow the other to get by. Fortunately, there wasn’t much traffic in either direction. Because of the mountainous terrain there were lots of twists and turns but because we were going so slow, that wasn’t really bothersome. What was bothersome however, were the bumps, especially in areas where the road was unpaved or in the process of being repaired. That really took its toll on us.

About 2 hours into our trip we had our first yak sighting - they were conveniently on the side of the road, close enough to photograph from our SUV. Shortly thereafter we arrived at Pele La, the 2nd mountain pass which is traditionally considered to be the boundary between western and central Bhutan. The altitude here was 10,000 feet and there was a chill in the air. And while there were plenty of prayer flags and a vendor selling stuff, there were no restrooms, which is a problem throughout Bhutan. Jeane set off down a dirt road to find a bush while I attempted to photograph a local yak herder that happened to be walking by. Jeane came back and I took my turn, while observing that more than a few tourists had used this dirt road for a toilet stop.

Feeling better, we set off for Trongsa, the next big town (population 15,000), 2-1/2 hours away. After an hour of driving, we came upon a large stupa decorated with prayer flags, Chendbji Chorten. Sonam told us it was built in the Nepalese style in the 18th century and patterned after the Swayambhunath temple in Kathmandu. Soon thereafter, the imposing Trongsa Dzong came into view, even though we were an hour away. We finally arrived at the Yangkhil Resort in Trongsa for another buffet lunch. The setting was pleasant as we sat outdoors with a view of the dzong. I imagine that the Yangkhil Resort would be a good place to spend the night, if we weren’t moving on.

After lunch, we headed over to the dzong and learned from Sonam about some more of the local history. I have not shared much Bhutanese history in this report but on our tour we come away with the following (and a lot more):
1. Buddhism was introduced to Bhutan in the 8th century by a highly revered Guru from Tibet
2. Until the 17th century the various districts of Bhutan were ruled by the local monks
3. Almost all of the dzongs in Bhutan were built in the 17th century to defend against invading Tibetans. During that period Bhutan was founded and unified as a country, although the regional governors enjoyed pretty much autonomous rule
4. By the mid-19th century, Bhutan was at peace with Tibet
5. In the early 20th century, the first of a succession of 5 kings came into power
6. Bhutan began its transition from an absolute monarchy to a multi-party democracy in 2007

From Trongsa, it was another 2-1/2 hours to the town of Jakar in the Bumthang Valley. There is a third pass, Yutong La about an hour outside of Trongsa. It was the least interesting of the 3, and we did not bother to stop. When we reached the outskirts of Jakar, we stopped at a shop selling kiras and other textiles for a much needed restroom break. Jeane spent some time here and eventually wound up buying a fairly expensive, colorful traditional kira, which she intends to use as a wall hanging. With Jeane’s purchase in hand, we headed to Swiss Guest House, our hotel for the next 3 nights. It was getting late in the day and a chill was starting to set in. Sonam offered to call the hotel on his cell phone and ask them to start the fire in the wood stove in our room. This is indicative of the type of service we received from Sonam throughout the trip.

Upon arrival, we were checked in quickly and our bags were brought to our room. Sonam told us he’d meet us the next day at 8:30 AM (ugh!) to take us to the first of our 2 festivals. The wood stove had already warmed things up nicely and we noticed that we had an electric heater in the room which could be used if the wood stove went out in the middle of the night. Our room #38 was on the lower of 2 floors and was again the farthest from the reception and the restaurant. It would be the smallest room we had on our tour but it was still quite spacious. There were windows on 3 of its 4 sides affording views of the surrounding apple orchard and a local neighbor's home in the distance. The owner/manager is a 2nd generation Swiss/Bhutanese women. When we arrived, the hotel was full with a large photographic tour group and several other tourists there to attend the festivals. We thought that the staff seemed a bit overwhelmed by this but for the most part, we were well taken care of.

The food at Swiss Guest House was the best we had in Bhutan - homemade soups, assorted pastas and meat sauces, homemade jam for breakfast and locally brewed Red Panda beer on tap! Everything was still served buffet style, but following meal after meal of bland food, it worked out well. We had a nice dinner that first night and turned in early.

Next: Our first festival and a short hike to some local sights

Craig, I continue to enjoy tagging along with you. Compared to the other countries you've visited in Asia, how would you rank Bhutan?

tripplanner - the jury is still out on that one. We found Bhutan to be similar to Bali (which we rank very high), especially in how the people's religion permeates every aspect of their lives. We thought the Bhutanese countryside was as beautiful as any place on earth. There was an awful lot of driving, not much down time and we had to get up early almost every day. So it was not the relaxing experience we would have had by going at our own pace. We don't usually like to travel with guides, but Sonam was outstanding in every way - the best we've ever had. Our driver, Dorji was excellent too. I had very little planning to do for this trip because Kencho of Snow White Tours did all of the work (and she pretty much nailed it). I hope this helps...

Thanks, Craig, I was just curious and this gives me a better idea.

Day 6: Jakar, Bumthang Valley

We awoke to a chilly morning and headed over to the restaurant for a nice breakfast. Afterwards, we bundled up in layers, and were ready to head out at 8:30 AM. The thermometer in our SUV read “0” (Celsius) so we knew it was cold outside. The Jambey Lhakhang Drub Festival, is named after 7th century temple adjacent to the festival grounds. There was always a good reason when Sonam pushed us for an early start. Today we got going early so we could get the best seats. And we did - right in front, close to the action, with the sun behind us for high quality photos. Most of the tourists that arrived later had to stand and face into the sun while watching the dances.

While waiting for the dances to start, we enjoyed observing the locals as they entered the venue. Many of the women especially, were dressed in colorful clothing that was absolutely stunning. In addition to being an important religious event, festivals are big social gatherings where people bring out their best finery. The dances at this festival were performed by local people and these dances are pretty much the same dances that are performed at all of the other festivals in Bhutan. The dances are carried out to bless onlookers, teach them the Buddhist philosophy, protect them from misfortune and exorcise all evils. The dancers’ colorful costumes represent wrathful and compassionate deities, demons and animals. We took many photos. I got up to walk around and stretch my legs at one point and noticed that there were also games for the locals (like those found at any carnival) and vendors selling food and souvenirs.

At one point about a dozen young ladies lined up in a row. A character that Sonam referred to as a “clown” asked them one-by-one what their wishes were (typically they ask for a boyfriend or for fertility). When each lady finished, he blessed her with a wooden phallus.

After 2 or 3 hours of watching the dances, we had had enough, knowing we would be attending another festival the next day. I let Sonam know that we were ready to go and we returned to Swiss Guest House for lunch. Lunch would not be available until 1 PM so while we were waiting for the hotel to set up the buffet, we took advantage of the Wifi in the restaurant.

After lunch we met up with Sonam again for a short hike that took us from Tamshing Lhakhang, a 16th century temple that contained some unrestored Buddhist paintings, to the Kurje Monastery and then to Jambey Lhakhang to see the temple, which was not open that morning. Afterward, Jeane wanted to shop the vendors at the festival so I asked Sonam to accompany her while Dorji returned me to the hotel. Sonam had led Jeane to believe that the vendors would accept credit cards since many of them came from the shops in Jakar. That was not the case and Jeane ran out of Bhutanese currency with her first purchase, a small decorative metal tea pot. Since Bhutanese banks are closed during the festival, Jeane was now finished shopping. She and Sonam started back to the hotel on foot and were met by Dorji as he was returning from dropping me off. Sonam and Dorji had of course, been in touch via their cell phones.

After Jeane returned, we just sat and read for the remainder of the afternoon. Sonam had told Jeane to be ready at 8 AM for the next day’s festival. We shared a table at dinner with a charming young couple from Italy, also traveling on their own, who had just finished a 2-night trek and were continuing eastward after the festivals. It was a very pleasant evening.

Next: Another festival, even better than the first

Looking forward to more!
Where can I find your pictures you took?

ditto - Photos have not been posted yet and will be posted on Smugmug once I've sorted through them. This will happen after I've finished my trip report.

Very interesting. Thanks.

Alright, sounds great.

Enjoying your report, Craig. Did you enjoy Bhutan as much as you enjoyed Myanmar? I'm glad I took your recommendation to visit Myanmar, and wonder if you feel the same enthusiasm for recommending visiting Bhutan, especially considering the high cost of visiting Bhutan.

shelley - we had more control of the pacing on our trip to Myanmar (except on those mornings when we had to get up early to catch a flight). If you can tolerate getting up early almost every day with lots of packing and unpacking, along with an awful lot of driving and not much down time, then I would recommend a visit to Bhutan. We felt it was worth the cost.

Glad to hear your thoughts about Bhutan. I am enjoying your report very much! Feels like I'm there with you and Jeane - can't wait to see the photos!

Day 7: Jakar, Bumthang Valley

Our new Italian friends joined us for a quick breakfast. They were moving on today so we wished them well. We set off at 8 AM for the Prakhar Lhakhang festival, about 45 minutes away. The thermometer in our vehicle said “-1” when we started but we knew from the previous day that it would warm up quickly once the sun rose. After a short walk, we arrived at the courtyard where the festival would be held. It was empty. Sonam assured us that the festival would start on time at 9 AM. And it did. This festival was different in that the monks living at the temple did the dances, not the locals.

On one side of the courtyard was a set of stairs that led up to guest quarters. The monks were housed in a separate building. We thought that the guest quarters would provide a unique vantage point for photos and asked Sonam if it would be okay to watch from there. He asked around. No one objected since the guest quarters were unoccupied. So for the 2nd day in a row, we had "VIP seating" for a festival.

The Prakhar festival was smaller and seemed more locally oriented giving it a much different feel to it than the first one we went to. The women were still wearing their finery but there were few vendors and no games at this one. Everyone seemed to be having a really good time - lots of smiles. The “clowns” were out in force with their wooden phalluses, blessing everyone - men, women, locals and tourists. The dances were the same. We couldn’t tell much difference between the monks' performances today and the locals' performances on the previous day. Again, we took lots of photos.

After about 2-1/2 hours we were satisfied that we had seen enough. The textile shop that we had stopped at previously on the way to Jakar was nearby. We stopped there for a while and Jeane purchased a couple more items using her credit card. Then we headed back to Swiss Guest House for lunch.

After lunch, I stayed in the restaurant to use the Wifi. I had given Jeane some of my local currency so she could do more shopping. She went with Sonam and Dorji to a local shop that sold homemade jams and honey. She wanted to purchase some things to give to friends back home. Jeane soon returned with some purchases and by that time, I had settled into our room with my book. We had some packing to do before hitting the road again the next day. It was rather quiet in the restaurant at dinner as many had moved on, including the large tour group. We would be departing at 8 AM again, so we turned in early.

Next: A Drive to Gangtey, a short hike and a black-necked crane sighting

Day 8: Bumthang to Gangtey

After one last Swiss Guest House breakfast, we loaded up our vehicle and headed out. Jakar was as far east as our itinerary would take us so now we were retracing our route, heading west. It was a 5 hour drive to Gangtey plus time for the buffet lunch at the Chendbji Restaurant near the large stupa we had seen while heading east. Gangtey is located in a valley south of the main highway. Sonam explained that electric power had only recently been brought to the area. He said that our hotel used to use a generator for power and that it would be turned off at 9 every evening.

On arrival in Gangtey, Sonam had planned a short hike. We walked through a village and a forested area to a viewpoint overlooking a marsh where the black-necked cranes were known to feed. The hike, on generally flat terrain, lasted about 1-1/4 hours. When we reached the viewpoint, Sonam told us to look for black dots in the marsh - those would be the birds. No luck. We walked a bit further and met up with Dorji and our vehicle. Dorji had dropped off our bags at the hotel while we were hiking. We had one more stop at the information center. As we approached, I saw dozens of black dots on the marsh. “Is that them?” I asked. Sonam replied in the affirmative.

There was a high powered telescope at the information center. No one was using it, so I went over and honed in on the cranes. I could make them out clearly, black necks and all. There must have been 50 of them. We took turns looking. The black necked cranes had purposely not been mentioned on our itinerary. They usually fly south for the winter from Tibet and arrive in Bhutan in early November - there was no guarantee that they would be there. We just got lucky.

The sun was quickly disappearing behind the mountains so we headed to our hotel, the Dewachen. On arrival we were greeted with hot towels, a nice touch. Since our bags had already arrived, we headed straight to our room (#9). It was a beautiful, spacious corner room with floor to ceiling windows on 2 sides. Again, we had the farthest room from the restaurant and reception. This was the first place we stayed that had “designer” toiletries in the bath. Sonam showed us how to fire up the wood stove. We noted that there was no electric heater but the room heated up quickly and stayed warm all night.

Sonam gave us some bad news - we would have to leave the next day at 7:30 AM so that we could get through a construction area before the road was shut down. Breakfast would be served at 6:30 AM to accommodate us. I should mention here that Sonam has an excellent network of friends who constantly keep him informed about things like this. He was never out of touch as cellular service is available even in the remotest areas of Bhutan.

The buffet dinner was a bit of a letdown after the good food we had at Swiss Guest House. There was no Wifi in the restaurant (or anywhere else) at Hotel Dewachen. After dinner we returned to the room, fired up the wood stove again (very easy to do) and hit the sack early.

Next: A long drive and pizza with Kencho

Day 9: Gangtey to Paro

My first task of the morning was to light our wood stove. It wasn’t that cold in our room but there’s nothing like waking up to a nice warm fire. After a shower and breakfast, I still had time for some photos. The sun was hitting our architecturally striking hotel just right so I took some shots. After that we finished packing and hit the road - 7 hours of driving, with a break for lunch in Thimphu with Kencho. The lunch was at Season Pizza, and their pizza was very good. All of the usual toppings were available, plus chilies for the locals. The crusts were thin and crispy, which I prefer. Jeane ordered a small pie and I ordered a medium - both with multiple toppings. Kencho also ordered a pizza with several toppings, one of which was chilies. I'm not sure why she proceded to remove them after her pizza was delivered. I had a glass of wine - an Australian merlot that was good enough that I ordered a 2nd...

Anyway the conversation was great. I had a burning question - why did she name her company “Snow White Tours”? Kencho told us it was a last minute decision made when she went to register her company name with the government. Her preferred choices had already been taken and she was forced to choose on the spot. She figured potential clients would associate Snow White Tours with the the snow-capped Himalayas in Bhutan and went with that. The name has worked well for her so far so she is not planning on changing it.

Our discussion moved to politics, and in particular Gross National Happiness, or as the Bhutanese call it, “GNH”. Our guide, Sonam had explained it to us fairly succinctly. It is not a measurement of individual(s) happiness. It is a set of guidelines that when followed will enhance the general happiness of the Bhutanese population. There are 4 main components:

1. Preservation of Bhutanese traditions
2. Preservation of the environment
3. Self-sufficiency, especially in agriculture, natural resources and construction
4. Availability of education, healthcare and infrastructure

The first 2 components are pretty self-explanatory. One example of preservation of traditions is the requirement that Bhutanese wear the traditional gho during working hours. An example of preservation of the environment is the goal that 70% of the land remain forested (it is currently 74%). The self-sufficiency component exists because Bhutan has been very reliant on other countries (India, especially) for almost everything. There is a movement now to grow more crops locally instead of importing them. Water is abundant in Bhutan and, if properly harnessed should allow the Bhutanese to generate all of the electricity it needs. The Bhutanese government has stepped up its efforts to train its own workers to build roads, etc. rather than bringing workers in from elsewhere. The final component is the government’s role in making education, healthcare and infrastructure available to the entire population. This means upgrading the east-west national highway to one lane in each direction countrywide, bringing electric power to citizens in the remotest regions, building new schools and hospitals and training more teachers and doctors.

Ask any Bhutanese and they will have an opinion about GNH. And it won't always be positive. After all, the 4 components tend to work at cross-purposes. When satellite TV is available to anyone that has electricity, how will that affect the preservation of Bhutanese tradition? How will improving roads or building dams affect the environment? Only time will tell. Kencho had a beef with the no less than 70% forested land goal. I think she felt it was rather arbitrary and unnecessary.

We talked about her business model and how it contrasts with what her competitors are doing. Her model is to give her clients the best service and accommodations available for the money. Pretty simple, really. She gets that travelers really don’t care for all of the non-stop buffet meals. She said that the hotel owners are lazy - they see something that works and then they all copy one another. She was vehemently opposed to lowering the minimum daily tariff to increase tourism from 70,000 per year now to the 300,000 that the government has suggested as a goal.

After talking for 2-1/2 hours, it was time to get going. We had 2 more hours of driving to get to Paro. When we reached Paro, we stopped at the airport to exchange some currency. The banks had closed at noon because it was Saturday, and I needed more Ngultrum to tip our guide and driver at the end of the tour. The lady at the exchange window asked me where I had flown in from. I explained that I had come by car with my guide. No problem - I was in and out in less than 5 minutes.

We finally arrived at our Paro Hotel, the Metta Resort and Spa, about 20 minutes north of the main town. Jeane and I were shown to our room #205. Sonam had explained to us that it was the largest suite in the hotel. The large room would ensure that we had a comfortable stay for our final 3 nights in Bhutan. However, my feelings about the Metta are mixed. On the first night, we had noisy neighbors in the units next to us and behind us. So Jeane had trouble getting to sleep. The 2nd and 3rd nights were quieter. Apparently, the hotel does not run its water pump all the time, so the shower doesn't work before 6 AM. On our first morning however, there was no water pressure until 6:30 AM. Wifi was available but inconsistent. It never seemed to be on in the afternoon. When it was available, I could pick up a signal in my room, which was nice. The buffet breakfasts and dinners at the Metta were above average with some additional variety beyond the standard tourist offerings.

Jeane and I unpacked, went to dinner and settled in for the evening.

Next: A hike to a nunnery, an 8th century temple, and dzong in ruins.

I'm enjoying reading about your trip--quite different from dogster's encounter with Bhutan.

Funny...I did not realize that the red clowns were blessing people with wooden phalluses. I just thought they were sticks. It must have been the altitude.

We ate our best lunch of the trip at a restaurant (that seemed to have hopes of becoming an inn) right outside the gate of the Dewachen Hotel. The Dewachen was not yet finished.

We also had a day where everything was planned around getting thru the barrier at the road construction site. We were the last vehicle to get thru. Behind us were several trucks that were not allowed thru. It was a rather remote area and I do not know where we would have gone if we had been stopped. It was late in the afternoon and getting dark.

I was impressed when I talked with children because they were learning English in school from a very early grade. I do not know if this was only in the cities/towns or in all the schools. There were articles in the Bhutan English newspaper about the difficulty of getting teachers for the rural school and getting the kids there when the weather was bad or their parents needed them for farm work.

At the Paro festival there was a large medical tent with warnings about high blood pressure and unprotected sex. At this festival no food was sold because it was in the religious building. There was a "fair" nearby where the biggest attractions were farm equipment and the bar.
Bhutan is a special experience.

Greetings Craig and many thanks for the fine writing; a pleasure to read just now at SFO.

The nocturnal barking dog brings back memories of similar creatures outside a little abode in Tingri (Dingri), Tibet; that evening was back in the early '90s, involving a memorable mountaineering expedition with good friends.

And, you mentioned a gentleman named Dorji. That same expedition of ours involved such a wonderful climbing Sherpa named Ang Dorji. Thanks for triggering some good thoughts.

Now, can't resist giving a flight recco for your next yearly Asia journey : SQ 21/22, that fine all business class, non-stop service, EWR-SIN-EWR. SIA will cease flying those non-stops late next year. I've loved my SQ ultra long-hauls for work and plan to get in at least one more before stoppage. (In my case, SQ 38/37, SIN-LAX, return.)

Thanks again and signing off from SFO. Get to fly SQ1 to Hong Kong in a few hours; always a pleasure.

Warm weekend wishes to you and all,

macintosh (robert)


... Singapore Airlines, You're a Great Way to Fly ...

Great reporting, So interesting how they culturally stray from the norm in such a determined way. Could it be because of their chaotic neighbor to the south? Happiness is such a lofty goal for a whole country. I wonder how many other nations even think about going there.

I do remember dogster's report - he had a lousy guide and just wasn't in the mood. I do think it would be difficult to do Bhutan on your own, that a travel partner is crucial to help process everything. Did the festivals feel authentic or somewhat staged?

Marija, crosscheck - if dogster's report had been the only one I read, I'd never have made it to Bhutan...

crosscheck - the festivals are put on for the locals, and although there were always tourists present, they felt authentic. That said, Sonam told us that the younger Bhutanese are less interested in the dances, which are passed from generation to generation to teach the Buddhist philosophy and more interested in the social aspects of the festivals.

Day 10: Paro

We set out early again in order to arrive before the clouds moved in at Chele La, Bhutan’s highest motorable pass (altitude 12,500 feet). The road for most of the 1-1/2 hour drive south from Paro was empty. This was where the trail started for our hike to Kila Nunnery. We had views down to the Haa Valley as well as of beautiful snow-capped mountain peaks, including Jhomolhari, Bhutan’s most famous. We felt like we were about to embark on a mini-Himalayan trek. To add to the mood, there were 2 monks with a drum chanting from scripture at the trailhead. It was all very surreal and the monks with the Himalayan backdrop provided an awesome photo. We hiked out in the open for a while over fairly level terrain and then descended into a wooded area. The trail was rather rocky and we were glad that Sonam had recommended we wear hiking boots (not just shoes with a good tread). Lonely Planet says that this hike is all downhill but we can attest that it’s not. There was a good deal of climbing toward the end of the 1-1/2 hour hike to reach the nunnery, which is tucked high in a crevice overlooking the valley below it.

The nuns were having lunch when we arrived. We were told that there are about 50 of them, ranging in ages from 8 to 80. Like their male monk counterparts, all of the women shave their heads. Kila nunnery dates back to the 9th century when it was established as a meditation site. It is reputedly the oldest nunnery in Bhutan. We peeked into the dining area and the kitchen. The kitchen stoves were recently converted to propane from wood for cooking. The nuns’ living quarters are currently heated with wood but electricity will be available soon. In fact, engineers were there that day doing a survey. We walked up to the temple for a tour. Afterward, the nuns had finished their meal and started to head off to get on with their studies. We were told that they had a big exam later that day. Jeane took some photos of the girls that had not yet left.

There is a road that was recently built to bring supplies to Kila and we hiked down to it where Dorji was waiting for us. On the way, Sonam mentioned that Kencho’s family had donated all of the metal roofs for the nuns’ living quarters. The day before Sonam had offered us a choice between bringing a picnic lunch or eating lunch in Paro. Given that a picnic lunch would likely be quite basic, we opted for another buffet lunch in town - at a place called Yue-Ling.

After lunch, we had two more sites to see, both somewhat off the normal tourist track. I neglected to mention earlier, that after our second festival we stopped at the dzong in Jakar. After our tour there, I remember telling Sonam that I was “dzonged out” and was glad that we had only the one remaining dzong in Paro to visit. There are actually 2 dzongs in Paro, the active Paro Dzong and the ruined Drukgyel Dzong. We were to visit the Drukgyel Dzong 10 miles north of Paro, which was destroyed by fire several decades ago. It was an interesting site. From this 17th century fortress, the Bhutanese repelled several Tibetan invasions over the years. It is said that revengeful Tibetans came and burnt it down but no one knows for sure if that’s what happened. In any case, Paro didn’t really need 2 dzongs, so this one was never rebuilt.

The last stop of the day was Kyichu Temple, known to be one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful. We did a short tour there, took a few photos outside, and headed back to the hotel. Sonam told us that we would leave for Tiger’s Nest at 8 AM the next day, that our horses were all arranged for the trip up and that we should bring our hiking boots again.

We relaxed, read for a while, had dinner and turned in fairly early.

Next: Tiger’s Nest and our last full day in Bhutan

i just loved it all as you have reported it..

one other reason not to go: early mornings..

thanks for taking me on this journey and i look forward to the final chapter (s).

Day 11: Paro
We rose early, ate breakfast and were ready to go at 8 AM for the 20 minute drive to the trail that leads to Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest). Sonam found the horseman who would accompany us as on our ride upward. Our 2 horses were fairly large compared to some of the others but there was a platform there to help us mount them. We were given 2 simple instructions: (1) lean backward when going down a hill and (2) lean forward when going up. Sonam led Jeane’s horse and the horseman led mine. Jeane and I would not be holding the reins or steering today. The saddles were english style and comfortable. There were 2 other horses that rode up with us. They were taking supplies to the 2 cafeterias near the monastery view point. We generally moved faster than those on foot, passing a number of tired looking people on the way up. The trail was fairly wide but those who were hiking often had to move aside for us. The horses needed to stop and rest from time to time. There were a couple of water troughs for the horses along the way and my horse took a very long drink at one of them.

There is a resting point with platforms for dismounting near the first cafeteria. We stopped there for a few minutes while the horses rested and then continued on for a little while longer, until it was time to walk. It took us about an hour or so to get that far. It was a 10 minute hike from there to the viewpoint, after which there were 700 steps (half down, half up) to the monastery. Most of those that arrived at the viewpoint on foot were tired and did not continue on to Taktsang. It is definitely worth it to come that far. The view of the monastery was spectacular. Since we had come on horseback, the steps to the monastery were no problem for us. At the entrance to the monastery, we checked our belongings, including our cameras and cell phones. There are a couple of filthy toilet stalls just beyond the checkpoint for those brave enough to use them.

We visited 3 temples inside the 17th century monastery while Sonam told us the story of how the Guru Rinpoche meditated in a cave on this site for 3 months back in the 8th century, after flying there on a tigress. This was the origin of the name “Tiger’s Nest”. There is evidence of the 1998 fire that damaged the monastery, however the temples have been fully restored. After touring the temples, we returned to the viewpoint, stopping to take some photos. Then we continued all the way down to the parking area on foot. I thought the hike down would be slippery but it was easy to maintain our footing. At one point Sonam stumbled - it was obvious that he was tired, walking the entire way without much rest. We spent a little over 4 hours on the trail.

We stopped at a quaint little restaurant called Yak Herder just beyond the parking area. A big tour group was leaving as we arrived, so we had the place to ourselves. The food, atmosphere and service were good.

After lunch, we headed into town. Our first stop was a modern art gallery. While we didn’t really care for the artwork, there were good quality adult-sized souvenir t-shirts for sale. I bought one for $8. Next, Dorji had been playing Bhutanese popular music in the car and I wanted a copy of his memory stick. So he parked the car and we walked to an electronics store while Jeane went off with Sonam. After we made the copy, Dorji drove me to the hotel. Dorji brought Jeane back shortly thereafter as the shopping in Paro wasn't very good.

Sonam had made sure that our outbound flight was confirmed and obtained copies of our e-tickets for us. We agreed to leave for the airport early the next day so we would have time to say our goodbyes and get good seats for our 11:30 AM flight to Bangkok.

We spent the remainder of our day packing for Bangkok and the flights home, followed by one last buffet dinner and sleep.

Next: The Druk Air flight to Bangkok and a wonderful dinner at Gaggan

PARO TO CONNECTICUT VIA BANGKOK

We left for the airport at 8:30 AM, so we had plenty of time to say goodbye to Sonam and Dorji. Their service had been exceptional. I gave them what I thought was a generous premium over the standard $10/day tip for guides and $6/day for drivers. We also presented them with 2013 calendars with USA photos and NY Yankees baseball caps. After we returned, I also wired some money to Kencho so that she could donate some clothing to the nuns at Kira. I forgot to mention that Kencho had presented me with a colorful wallet made in Bhutan before we left Thimphu...

We arrived at check-in in time to get seats on the “good” side of the aircraft. We took our checked luggage over to security and then headed to the business lounge. There were several departing flights that morning, and early on the lounge was almost full. There was a nice selection of beverages and food but we were neither hungry nor thirsty. The Wifi was strong and relatively fast and the unisex restroom was clean. Security was easy when it came time to depart. In contrast to the inbound flight from Delhi, we had real business class seats. Unfortunately, all flights to Bangkok stop somewhere in India and ours touched down at Bagdogra for 30 minutes before continuing on. After that, we had a nice lunch and a generous beverage service, arriving in Bangkok on schedule. We took a bus from the aircraft to the terminal but it was a very short walk to immigration.

We quickly breezed through immigration, picked up our bags and spotted the AAC Limo rep almost immediately upon exiting. The drive to the Renaissance went fairly smoothly, considering we had arrived at rush hour. I e-mailed Pook when we got there to tell him that our 8 PM dinner was on.

Jeane and I checked into the Renaissance in the executive lounge. The Floor Manager who came up with us in the elevator arranged for drinks to be brought to us. Afterward, we went to our room to prepare for dinner.

We decided that we would walk to Gaggan and enjoyed the somewhat warm and humid Bangkok weather on the way. It took about 10 minutes to get to the restaurant from the hotel. Pook and his daughter Mony were already there. Pook suggested we order the 10 course tasting menu, so that's what we did. A fabulous feast was to follow with each dish spectacular in its own way. Our conversation with Pook and his daughter flowed easily. We asked about Mony’s future plans and were excited to hear that schooling abroad seemed to be in her future. After 10 creative and delicious courses, plus a bonus or two added by Chef Gaggan, it was time to leave. Pook graciously offered to drop us near our hotel. He enjoyed demonstrating his BMW's quick acceleration and its fab sound system. We’ll have to race each other sometime, but maybe not on the streets of Bangkok.

AAC would be at the hotel at 7:30 AM, so we hit the sack soon after returning to the Renaissance. I rose early and went to the lounge for coffee. It was nice not having to prepare it myself, for a change. Jeane and I both decided to skip breakfast, knowing that there would be plenty of food in the Royal Thai Silk Lounge. AAC was waiting for us in front of the hotel lobby. After we got out of central Bangkok, there was little traffic. Check in and immigration were all "fast track" for Thai business class customers, so it went quickly. In the lounge, we watched the early election results on CNN as the polls at home began to close.

The service to Beijing was the best we have ever experienced on a short haul business class flight. We were only in the air about 4 hours on our A330 but we had lie-flat 170 degree seats, VOD, a fantastic meal and non-stop beverages.

At Beijing, we went through a very rigorous security check but there was plenty of time. Afterward, we headed to the Air China lounge to wait for our United flight. This lounge was one of the worst Asian lounges I have ever experienced. It was crowded, the selection of food was poor, and there was only beer available. We had to scan our passports in order to enable Wifi and of course, Facebook and other sites were blocked. There was a TV viewing area but it seemed to be geared to the Chinese. I managed to get online and find that the election results had been decided. Was it too late to turn back to Thailand?

Our United flight took off on time. It was a 777 with lie-flat seats, so we were quite comfortable for our 14 hour flight. Food and beverage service was okay but not as good as it was on our Thai Airways flight. I had plenty of sleep but Jeane did not sleep well.

When we arrived at Washington Dulles, I was pleased that we did not have to take a bus to the International arrival area. While it was a fairly long walk, it was good to stretch our legs. Immigration went very quickly and our bags arrived within minutes. Unfortunately, I had messages and emails on my smartphone indicating that our flight to Hartford had been cancelled due to a snow storm and that our next flight out would not leave for 2 days. There were United people in the baggage area and they offered to reroute our checked bags to the main terminal so that we could pick them up. Our next stop was a security check, which is only for arriving international passengers. This is so much better than being dumped in the queue with all departing passengers, as is done at O’hare. We headed upstairs to the United Club to try and sort out how we might return home sooner.

When we first arrived in the United Club, there was just one receptionist on duty. She wasn’t much help, but soon another staffer showed up who knew what she was doing. It took awhile but our flight plan was changed to a departure late the next morning on US Airways from Reagan International. The staffer arranged a taxi transfer, reserved a hotel close to the other airport and reserved our US Airways flight. I was happy and Jeane was happy.

The next day we were on our way. We had a disagreement at the gate over baggage fees, but I was able to resolve this with United after returning home. Jeane and I arrived at Bradley Airport in the early afternoon. We had originally arranged for a driver to meet us, but with the flight change she was unavailable. Instead we had a $60 cab ride to our home.

It was a great trip and it all went like clockwork, aside from the one glitch at the end.

For our next trip, we will again be looking for a new experience (perhaps Japan), but we hope to go at a slower pace with quality upscale shopping for Jeane and great food for us both.

Feel free to ask any and all questions. And if you made it this far, thanks for "listening".

Thanks for sharing your journey to Bhutan with us, Craig. It's been fun coming along with you.

Craig, dud you say at what elevation you were most of tne time? We found 7500 ft. In Mexico City tolerable, but not great, given our advanced years.

I see Mr. McIntosh is still pimping shamelessly for Singapore Airlines . . .

indiana, what matters is at what elevation you sleep - in the valleys where the hotels are, it is 7,000 to 9,000 feet.

I actually get a kick out of AO's posts (although I really don't need to hear about his pre-marital dalliances...)

Great report Craig and I was happy to see both you and Jeane in Bangkok again. Next time I promise to drive slower!

A tiny correction - the tasting menu at Gaggan was 12 courses + the special desert.

Thanks for the report Craig. You've inched Bhutan a couple notches higher on my wishlist.

Sorry Pook, just lost track on the number of courses - so many. No need to slow down - I'm a fast driver myself...

Femi - always good to hear from you.

Yes Craig fabulous report! Glad we got to go along with you.

Aloha!

Hi Craig, I'm finally catching up with your report. I appreciate the level of detail. As you know, we have considered Bhutan, as it seems like a must-visit place for us with our interest in Buddhism. But we have been put off by the required guide everywhere and the lack of flexibility in planning. Of course, I'm chuckling about your complaint about 8:30 starts give our 5 am start a couple of days ago.

I'm glad we chose Sikkim as an alternative - it has the Buddhist culture, the Himalayan scenery, nice places to stay, better food and almost no tourism. But it has very little shopping, so Jeane would miss that. I expect we will continue to evaluate whether we want to go to Bhutan as the country and it's tourism policies change.

Brilliant thread, Craig. Like all great trips, it doesn't end when you get home, but it continues in replay forever and ever.

There's a certain window in life when you can take trips like these. Too young and you lack the resources and experience to appreciate -- and, in most cases, afford -- it all. Too long in the tooth, and the physical challenges become too daunting.

(Also pleased to hear that Hanuman is a weed-kind-of-guy. I knew there had to be some common ground.)

fantastic on all levels.... can't wait for 12 courses later this week..

Craig and Jean were more ambitious than we were. We did not get up early most mornings. That is one of the good things about Bhutan with private guide, you can do what you want. To me the very best thing about the trip was seeing a country in transition. Such a contrast between generations. With the road across most of the country, tourists, schools, and medical facilities, it will not be long until Bhutan has 7-11, Subway, and a Met Museum gift shop. Well, at least a traffic light. Need to go soon!
Thanks, Craig, for your report.

Kencho e-mailed me this morning and pointed out a couple of inaccuracies in my report:
1. At the Textile Museum in Thimphu, the video about the making of a kira, not a gho. The gho is the men's traditional garment. The kira is the women's.
2. Our first lunch in Thimphu was at Karma Coffee, not Khamsa Coffee.
Just wanted to set the record straight...

i knew i could not believe a word you wrote. good to have things set straight.

I have posted our photos here:

http://craigandjeane.smugmug.com/Travel/Bhutan-2012/26715000_QDP8gK#!i=2235504189

Your photos rang a bell:

Have you seen the movie called The Other Final, about a sort of reverse World Cup? In 2002, while the top teams in the world were playing for the World Cup in Japan, a Dutchman organized the Other Final, a soccer match between Bhutan and Montserrat, the two lowest-ranked teams in the world. The match was held in Thimpu, and the whole thing was entertaining without being especially condescending.

No, Don - but I'll look into it...

Craig and Jeane. LOVING your photos! There are some really, really fabulous ones in your album.

Fabulous photo's Craig, really. Looks like a fun time. Which one is the "Shangri La" photo to you?

Aloha!

HT, without question, the "Shangri La" photo is the one of the two monks chanting at Chele La with the Himalayas in the background.

Hi Craig & Jeane
Haven't read thru this yet, am printing it out right now to enjoy at my leisure tonight when snuggled up in bed!!

welcome home and thanks for this report!

I didn't have time to follow while we were away. Too busy keeping you know who together. Loved your report, and tomorrow after I finish unpacking I will look at you pictures. Sounds like a fab place, but I don't think Bob could keep up with it. Too many early starts, even for me. Glad you had a great time.

Karen, Kencho has assured me that rising early is not a requirement for travel in Bhutan. However, because we did, our photos were better in the early morning light, our hikes were cooler, our seats at the festivals were the best and we avoided a long wait at a road construction site on the drive back to Thimphu. That said, because of the walking and hiking, I agree that this trip is probably not for Bob.

Craig: what a marvelous report. I really like your writing style, and your photos are superb, so clear and well framed!

It was great to meet you at lunch at the Boston GTG, and we are so glad you and Jeane had a successful trip.

Looks like you are planning another one already!

Craig: Thank you so much for sharing your incredibly gorgeous pictures and your fantastic trip report. You so captured Bhutan.

Bob and Karen -- I don't think you should be scared off by the "hiking" and "early rising" -- there's lots of ways to see Bhutan and if you go on a private tour you can just about set your own schedule and amount of walking.

We went in 2010 on our first (and last) organized tour -- never did it before and won't do it again, not because of the people who were all lovely and our tour was limited to 8 couples -- but because I like to set my own pace.

Anyway, my husband has advanced arthritis, walks with a cane, and has had both hips replaced. He did not take some of the walks but it didn't really matter. What matters in Bhutan are the people, the culture, the scenery, and the fact that it hasn't been totally over-run yet with Micky-Ds and the like.

DonTopaz' mention of The Other Final reminds me of Khyentse Norbu's movie The Cup (about two Tibetan refugee monks who wanted to get a TV for their monastery to watch the world cup). Norbu is a Bhutanese Lama who went to NYC Film School and uses films as a teaching tool. If you haven't seen it, watch Norbu's Travellers and Magicians -- a beautiful film shot in Bhutan which, I thought, totally captures the feeling of the forests and remote villages.

Kathie--Sikkim sounds like an incredible place to see. Did you do a trip report?

We watched "Travelers and Magicians" tonight. Great film - brought back Bhutan just the way we saw it.

Craig, Cheryl and I really enjoyed Travelers and Magicians - one of the movies we watched before our Sikkim trip.

Elaine, I did, indeed, write a trip report:
www.fodors.com/community/asia/sikkim-darjeeling-and-kolkata-an-unusual-first-trip-to-india.cfm
photos at www.marlandc.com/Sikkim/index.htm