Chronicles from the Caucasus

Have a safe trip!

I LOVE your website... sigh if only i could figure how to do that sort of thing.....
Safe journey

I look forward to following along on the blog. I'll also follow you on twitter (I'm @wired2theworld if you want to follow me back).

If you don't mind, check back in here on the post every once in a while and let us know when you've updated the blog.

Bon Voyage, thursdays! Have a wonderful trip.

Thanks everyone!

Smeagol - for my original website (wilhelmswords.com) I hand-coded the HTML (I was still a techie back then) and it was a bit of a pain. That's why I haven't updated it lately! But wordpress.com makes it really, really easy to start a blog. If you go with their default format all you have to do is type. I did pick a different format, and put up my own header picture (the Himalayas seen from Darjeeling), but even that was pretty straightforward.

Kristina - have done. Love your background!

very nice, i will follow along.. bon voyage

Thanks.That background is a photo I took in Rome's Campo di Fiori. I knew your background looked familiar; I've seen those mountains from the other side (Nepal).

"I've seen those mountains from the other side (Nepal)" - wish I had! Maybe next year.

I'm packed and ready to go, trying to figure out why the luggage seems to have gotten heavier since last time.

I'm finally going somewhere off the map - Google maps shows NO roads for Georgia, just a few of the cities, not including a couple I'm planning to visit! But it has roads for Armenia and Azerbaijan, right next door - weird.

Hi Thursday--- FodorsTravel is now following you on Twitter (hey guys, you can follow us too at www.twitter.com/fodorstravel/). Looking forward to your updates!

Hope you consider adding some of your thoughts/observations here... definitely would be great to have current feedback from that corner(s) of the world available to other members.

Best of luck to you!

Loving your blog so far, I do wish you would post here.

Excellent blog.
I will follow along....have a great trip...it should be enjoyable. You have picked an interesting set of countries to visit. Looking forward to your updates.

New York was having great weather until today (Friday...rain), but NY is wonderful anyways.

Bon voyage.

Sounds like an AWESOME trip! Will def follow, safe travels.

Happy Travels, Thursday!

Hi Katie - that's so cool

Will try to do updates when I find an internet cafe. I'm traveling with a Nokia n800 - great for twitter but not for lots of typing! (I'm doing this at the Apple store on 14th - hate the keyboard!)

Really interesting list of places! I'm following along too.

Hello everyone, thanks for the good wishes!

The good news: I've made it to Batumi, along with my luggage, and am typing this from my B&B. More good news: I'm enjoying myself, but then I have a taste for off-beat destinations (not at dogster's level, but there).

Based on one rainy September Tuesday (hardly fair, I know), I wouldn't say this was currently a main-stream destination - even though Sheraton is building a wedding cake-style luxury hotel near the "beach". (Beach only in the English sense - it's all stones.) With the golden pyramid on top it looks like Sheraton is trying to outdo the quite new statue of Medea and the Golden Fleece perched on top of the very tall pedestal in the main square.

I'm not sure whether the desolate feeling of the waterfront boulevard is the result of the rainy off-season day (although Yalta was pretty lively in the off-season), or the after-effect of last-year's unpleasantness (no more Russian visitors, perhaps), or just a down day after the "South Caucasus III Youth Festival" that ended (thank heavens) on the 15th. But some places look like they've been closed for a while.

Nor am I sure whether the disastrous state of the roads in the "old town" section is the result of laying new pipes (which is certainly underway in a couple of places), or is normal. I never thought I'd write this, but these streets are actually worse than those in Moldova.

I'm hoping it will be dry tomorrow - there's a Roman castle to the south, and a Botanical Garden to the north, that I want to explore. But the English language brochure I was surprised to get from the TI says that this is one of the wettest places in the northern hemisphere. Hence the temperate rain forest.

Just caught up with you. Hope it's all going well at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Any updates?

Check here for updates:
http://twitter.com/mytimetotravel

Thanks Marija. Still in Georgia. Plans disrupted by burst blood vessel in left eye (retinal not subconjunctival) and ophthalmologist didn't want me to go up to Kazbegi. Things seems to have settled down, retina is fine, but she thinks I need thinner blood. Now I have some kind of congestion.

Went to Telavi in the wine district (Kakheti), and leave for Borjomi (mineral springs and southern mountains) tomorrow, Armenia on Tuesday. Am keeping Twitter fairly up to date but am way behind on the blog, sorry.

Will post reactions to Georgia when I get back to Tbilisi. Quick summary - great scenery, great people, good food, wine needs work, infrastructure needs lots of work. Bring sturdy shoes and a torch! Serious budget destination - outside Tbilisi and perhaps Batumi, things can be unbelievably cheap.

Thursdays, sorry to hear about the burst blood vessel. Take care of yourself.

I'm looking forward to more on your trip.

Very exciting reading about not so common destinations. Am truly sorry about your burst blood vessel. Take care.

Yes, I'm with you too, thursday. This is totally unknown territory to me.

Thanks people! Nice to know someone's reading! Congestion has turned into a cold - I don't think cold and wet agree with me. Unfortunately it's raining again here in Borjomi - I'm hoping for dry tomorrow when I go to the cave city of Vardzia. Would be lovely mountain place otherwise. Hotel found me a portable heater, so I should be warm tonight.

Being cold and sick in faraway places is miserable. Hope it all improves. I have to get a map to find out where you are!

Put me down for another that is following you along. I am fascinated by your report.

I hope your health improves very quickly so you can get back to enjoying your trip.

Wow, what a day! I had a car and driver for the two hour drive to the "cave city" at Vardzia. (That is, elderly driver in an elderly car.) This is serious mountain territory, rugged and remote, but gorgeous, even in the rain. Yes, it was raining. Some patches of good road, more not.

15 min into the trip, driving past a particularly rugged slope, a boulder breaks loose - misses us by millimeters! 90 min into the trip, oncoming traffic has white patches, driver says something that sounds like "snake". Round the next bend or so - snow!!! It's September still... It wasn't sticking to the road, so I didn't call the trip off - the higher slopes that weren't covered in cloud were well dusted, and those lovely northern pines with the sweeping branches were nicely coated. Just before Vardzia it went back to light rain. After I manage not to fall down navigating the site, and we stop for bite to eat, we have a flat tire. Then an emergency stop when an old guy standing in the middle of the road doesn't react to the horn (this is definitely a horn country).

I'm treating myself to a slightly splurge hotel in Tbilisi tomorrow (Villa Mtiebe) - I may only go out to eat! (http://www.hotelmtiebi.ge/welcome.htm)

Snow on top of everything else! I have looked you up on google maps and they don't even show roads in Georgia. The link to the hotel didn't work but I hope it lived up to expectations. You sounds like you need a bit of splurge.

Hi gertie - I know, can't think why google maps doesn't show roads in Georgia but does for Armenia, next door! I'll be in that hotel tomorrow - take the ending parenthesis off the link and it should work.

I just posted this to my blog, but for those not following the blog, who haven't thought much about Georgia, I'll copy it here:

"...why the Caucasus? For me, two reasons: mountains and the Silk Road. I first seriously considered visiting when I planned my 2004 round-the-world trip, but it didn't fit with the railway theme. But I didn't forget those mountains.

This time, wanting to visit the western end of the Silk Road, I did some more research. Turns out, this area was inhabited long, long before the Silk Road. It's part of the "Cradle of Civilization", in on the development of pottery, agriculture and metallurgy (and, no doubt, warfare). Unfortunately, it went from cradle to crossroads, all the neighboring empires (and there have been plenty) have come, seen, and conquered. Much of the time, eastern and western Georgia were ruled by different empires, although I haven't noticed any special differences, I haven't been here very long. Georgia's golden age seems to have been during the rule of King David the Builder (1085-1125) and Queen Tamar (1184-1213

The docent in the Fine Arts Museum in Tbilisi assured her sceptical audience that at one time Georgia ruled territory that included Egypt. She got a more sympathetic hearing when she pointed out the the historic northern border ran along the heights of the Caucasus - putting South Ossetia firmly in Georgia's sphere of influence. (Abkhazia wasn't mentioned.)

Armenia was the first nation converted to Christianity, and despite waves of Muslim invaders, and incorporation into the Ottoman Empire, both Georgia and Armenia retain their distinctive brands of Orthodox Catholicism (they were otherwise occupied during some of the critical synods). The atheistic Soviets seem to have done the most damage to the religious infrastructure, and many of Georgia's churches are in sad shape - but there is plenty of renovation underway.

Although I take issue with some of Lonely Planet's more lyrical flights of descriptive fantasy, and I hate being rained on, I have found the trip interesting so far. And the mountains, what I have seen of them, are indeed worth visiting."

Last year I saw an exhibition of the Golden Graves of Vani.

Vani was a religious and administrative center in the ancient kingdom of Colchis, in the present-day Republic of Georgia. It has been regularly excavated since the 1940s, and its graves have turned up ancient jewelry, sculpture, and a variety of vessels associated with the making and ritual consumption of wine. (Colchis, which is known from Greek mythology as the land where Jason went in search of the Golden Fleece, was in fact, as the myth suggests, very rich in gold.)
It was quite staggering in riches and history.

Batumi has a very tall pedestal with a statue of Medea and the golden fleece - the fleece is golden. Unfortunately, the museums were more than a bit disappointing. One of them had lots of stuffed animals in cases - last time I saw anything like that was in Ulaan Baator, but at least they were arranged in dioramas.

Finally found your hotel. Looks perfect for a splurge. And sunshine too. Once your cold disappears you will be all set. Good luck with Armenia.

Arrived in Vanadzor, Armenia, yesterday. Got my visa at the border quickly, no problems. However, a Taiwanese guy on the same marshrutka took FOREVER. A nun on the same marshrutka didn't make it at all. The Taiwanese said she had too many Russian stamps in her passport. Apparently the Armenians are working on better relations with the west rather than Russia. There are talks right now on opening the border with Turkey (although Azerbaijan wants their issues with Armenia resolved first).

First impression - signage, buildings, people - is that Armenia feels much more Russian than Georgia did. Georgia, despite the lack of development (you know a country needs work when you see a sign about "Polish aid"), felt European. Armenia feels Russian, although the people on the streets aren't as dour.

Today I took a taxi back up the road towards the Georgian border (couldn't see much from the marshrutka) to visit Debed Canyon and some old churches. Great scenery! But taxis here use their meters, even for a trip like that! In Georgia you negotiated up-front, or just paid the going rate in town if you knew it (2 GEL in Telavi, 3 or 4 in Tbilisi, or 5 or 6 TO (FROM more difficult) the bus stations.

I just put the second Batumi piece up on the blog, but I'm having difficulty posting pix.

Am now in Aleppo. Internet access has been really problematic this whole trip and is super-slow here. My journal is up-to-date, I'm up-to-date on twitter, but the blog is way behind. First impression of Armenia pretty much confirmed - good tree-covered mountains in the north, much drier in the south, people more relaxed and friendlier in Georgia. Good kachkars in Armenia - stone crosses - elaborate carvings on big stone slabs.

I need to go back to Georgia for the high Caucasus I missed out on this trip - especially now I know it's easier to get there than LP suggests - lots of Israeli tourists going up - but probably not to Armenia.

Will post on the rest of the trip on the Africa board, but surprised to find lots of tourists in Syria - not Americans, I think, but lots of Europeans. Aleppo is packed tight, and I counted 8 big tour buses outside St. Simeon's (very impresive) church today.s

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress.

I'm here too.

Thanks for keeping us updated.

I am eagerly looking forward to your report.

Nice to hear from you. Saw Apamea and Krak des Chevaliers today - both great sites. Really felt the reach and power of the Roman Empire at Apamea. This is the wrong board - but consider Syria - for the sights, not so much the cities - dun-colored and poor inner cities, posh expensive houses on the outskirts, so far.

Welcome back! I'm looking forward to reading about your adventures.

Thanks Marija! I hope to finish up Georgia on the blog this week - will post here when done.

thursdaysd, welcome home.

What a great blog. I've been following along for a few weeks, wish I'd found this thread earlier. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.


I am planning a trip to Jordan and I will be travelling solo, I read on another thread that you joined a tour in Jordan, which company did you use?

Hi germanblonde, thanks! - I used Explore, but I can't recommend them. Afraid it will take a while till the blog gets to Jordan! Do pick a tour that gives you plenty of time in Petra - I had three nights/two full days.

Interesting you should say that. Someone I know did a similar tour with a similar reaction!
Welcome back. Hope you are now in recovery mode.

Thank you, thursdaysd. I will keep looking at tour options. I look forward to reading more on your blog. First you need to get back your daily routine and relax from being on the go for such a long time.

I've just finished organizing the photos from Georgia - at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009 - and finished my Georgia posts at mytimetotravel.wordpress.com. Here's the last post, a quick summary:

It's clear that economically, this country's not doing so well, and it didn't take a "Polish Aid" sign at a construction site to tell me that. While the main roads are in good shape, secondary roads and sidewalks are definitely not. Then there are the taxi drivers in the countryside, coasting whenever they can to save gas, and an electricity supply often too weak to charge my Nokia n800. Transport (by marshrutka) and food (khachapuri - cheese pie - and khinkali - meat dumplings) can be unbelievably cheap. But the people, friendly and energetic, struck me as entrepreneuerial survivors, so I hope that things will improve.

It's also a very old, proud, country, with a history going back to the dawn of agriculture and including a prosperous period as Colchis (think Jason's Golden Fleece). Just the second nation to embrace Christianity, in the early fourth century, its Christian heritage has survived occupation by the Muslim Ottomans as well as the atheistic Soviets, although the church buildings suffered badly under the Soviets. The religious revival includes a massive new cathedral in Tbilisi, and renovation at many churches in the countryside.

I visited in the second half of September, and (as a look at my photos will attest) suffered a shortage of sunshine. This could be a good destination in July and August, when much of Europe is overrun with tourists. I saw only one small, European, tour group (at Vardzia), and encountered a scattering of European backpackers and rather more Israelis (there's a direct flight from Tel Aviv to Tbilisi), so this is a good place for people looking to get off the main tourist trail. No Western chains in evidence either, aside from a few hotels.

This is a great budget destination, with a network of homestays and the afore-mentioned cheap food and transport. I loved the scenery, and I didn't even get up into the higher mountains. Having discovered that access to Svaneti (in the northwest), and Tusheti (in the northeast) is easier than Lonely Planet suggests, I'd really like to come back and spend time in the north.

Options for high-end travelers are limited. There are a couple of Mariotts and a Radisson in Tbilisi, and Sheraton is building in Tbilisi and Batumi, but otherwise the best option outside Tbilisi is the Dzveli Batumi chain. Mid-range people can do a bit better, but if you're headed for the mountains, there's not much besides homestays.

I used Lonely Planet, and aside from a map error in Kutaisi, found it worked well. I read the Bradt guide before I left, but unless you plan to drive yourself to every church in the country, you're better off with Lonely Planet. I took a quick look at an Odyssey guide while I was in Tbilisi, and thought it would be worth checking out for sightseeing information.

Bottom line? Georgia is on my "would revisit" list, for the mountains, but not my "must revisit" list.

Interesting piece on Abkhazia here - news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8407446.stm - notice that the election posters are in the Russian, not Georgian, alphabet. Before it became a "breakaway republic" this used to be the best part of Georgia's Black Sea coast.

I've now finished up Armenia - photos have joined Georgia at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009 - and blog entries are at mytimetotravel.wordpress.com.

While I'm glad I visited Armenia, if I go back to the area it will be to Georgia. Armenia had good scenery in the north, but I think Georgia's is even better. And though I really admired the elaborate khachkars (carved crosses) in Armenia, in general I preferred the church architecture in Georgia.

There is the same network of homestays and marshrutkas in Armenia as in Georgia for budget travelers, but high end travelers will have more choice in Armenia - many people stay in Yerevan, which is well-provided with hotels, restaurants and cafes, and take day trips. Outside Yerevan the Tufenkian chain (www.tufenkianheritage.com) would be worth investigating.

I did enjoy my stay in the north, rather than being driven back and forth, but I came overland from Tbilisi rather than flying into Yerevan. I would also suggest over-nighting for exploring the western part of the country. I took a two-night tour through the west to Nagorno-Karabakh, the site of a war of independence in the early '90s. While still claimed by Azerbaijan, it can only be visited from Armenia. I found the visit interesting, but it isn't a must-see.

I flew to Aleppo from Yerevan, so I'm off to the Africa - Middle East board for the rest of the trip.

Great report on places rarely visited

Thanks, Nywoman.

Oops, just realized I wrote western instead of eastern in the penultimate paragraph. Still need an edit function!

A speechwriter for QEII said that whenever one of them would prepare a speech for Her, she would always make some small change. He had written for Her "I am very happy to be in Kingston," and she crossed out "Very" and said "I shall be happy to be in Kingston, but not very happy to be in Kingston." That is amusingly close to your "must revisit" etc. category. Very funny. I just did more than 5 weeks thru China, India, Thailand, & Dubai on my own, and constantly thought of the Queen's view as it was so exact.

Cute! China and India are on my "must revisit", Thailand on "would revisit" and Dubai "might visit sometime (maybe if I win a lottery!)" lists - which of your lists did they make?

I've been following along, Thursdays. I'm looking forward to your comments on Jordan. It's on my "must revisit" list.

Hi Kathie - have to get through Syria and Lebanon first, but Petra was unquestionably the highlight of the trip. I got to spend two full days there and am very glad I saw more than the Treasury, although of course it is spectacular. But I thought Amman was skippable - especially after Damascus.

Just a quick note to say that my Middle East TR is now complete at http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/my-mixed-bag-month-in-the-middle-east.cfm

Also, all the photos for this trip are up at http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009

Another quick note: you can now hear me talk about the Georgia part of my trip on this Amateur Traveler podcast:
http://bit.ly/cO5KJK

I was a bit nervous about this, but I don't sound as bad as I thought I might!