Bonjour Crosscheck,

<<<<Teach kids (and ourselves) something about Buddhism in advance. Unfortunately we didn’t do this, so the boys still think Nirvana is the state you achieve after a day in the video arcades of Shibuya.<<<<<<

It isn't ?

Not sure what I'm enjoying more, the information, or the style in which it's written. It looks like you covered an amazing amount of ground in a short period of time and took away some significantly personal impressions.
Looking forward to much more

great start....look forward to more details....

Loving your report, crosscheck!

Thanks for sharing your trip report; I'm really enjoying it.
But tsk tsk for introducing your children to business class at such a young age....there is no going back to coach for them now! I recall a trip report from another Fodorite with 4 kids: mom and dad sat at the front of the plane and kids in the back.

Thanks, everyone, for the kind words.
I am working on something for my real life but will post the next installment by the end of the day.

cruisinred,
I know what you mean about "never going back." Had a job where we only flew first class, and it was no fun going back, even to business.

I did see the report (ccc's?) about the parents in front and the kids in back. A wise idea. But our younger son had developed an aversion to long trips after a horrendous flight back from Sydney with 3 extra hrs. on the ground. Both kids had always been flexible and enthusiastic travelers, and it was worrisome that one was now complaining about going to faraway destinations.

So when AA offered me four peak-period tickets to a place where we actually wanted to go, it seemed like a miracle and I thought I'd grab them.

On a certain level it paid off - Kids are now spoiled, but in their memories the flights were a cool part of the vacation. And they get that this was a luxury trip. They are still looking forward to being backpackers on bumpy buses and staying in huts on the beach.

Great start!! Can't wait for the rest!

I'm enjoying your trip report and your style of writing too.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
A job where you fly First..... How great. My company won't even pay the difference/co pay if I upgrade to business using my own miles.
Sue

BANGKOK:
Will tell you about our visit to Bangkok, I promise. But first, before you all get upset with us for not falling in love with everyone's favorite Asian city, I must provide some background.

A NASTY INFECTION:
One of us usually requires medical attention on our trips. Some ailments/injuries have been exotic (a monkey attack in the Yucatán); others have been mundane (bronchitis in Rarotonga).

This time we were well prepared. Had previously visited many disease-ridden places, but never before had consulted a travel doctor. As a result, we were traveling with remedies for SARS, Avian Influenza, malaria, traveler’s diarrhea, deep wounds, plus an assortment of long and short-acting sleep aids. Now if (rather, when) one of us got sick, we could skip the clinic and treat ourselves.

Early in the morning on the way to LAX, I realized in horror that it was my turn to create anxiety and possibly ruin a vacation because of illness: Skin inside my right ear was bright red and the adjacent gland was noticeably swollen. Concerned about flying (on eight flights) with an ear infection, I called our Family Practitioners’ answering service and asked the operator to wake up the physician on call.

CIPRO:
Luckily, the doctor said, it sounded as if I had an outer ear infection, which is not the kind that causes excruciating pain at high altitudes. Listed the various antibiotics we had procured for potential gastrointestinal ailments. The doctor said Cipro would work for my condition.

It didn’t. Eleven hours later when we had to change planes in Tokyo, I was certain my infection had morphed into an advanced stage of flesh-eating bacteria.

It was then that it occurred to me that I had not asked how much Cipro to take. I might have taken the proper amount to cure explosive diarrhea, but not enough to unswell my now-enormous gland.

A CALL TO A MEDICAL HOTLINE:
The people in the JAL Business Lounge rushed off to find a doctor. Meanwhile, because it was the middle of the night in LA, we decided to make use of the CSA Worldwide Emergency Medical Hotline, a 24/7 service provided by the travel insurance we had purchased on www.insuremytrip.com

The Hotline Operator put me right through to a nurse. Explained the situation, and the conversation with the Hotline Nurse went something like this:

Hotline: I’m sorry, I cannot prescribe medicine.
Me: My doctor has already prescribed the medicine. I just need to know the correct dose.
Hotline: Isn’t there a dosage on the bottle?
Me: There is, but this was prescribed for diarrhea and I have an ear infection.
Hotline: Do you have vomiting?
Me: If I were vomiting, I would know what dose to take. Can’t you just find out the dosage for ear infections?
Hotline: No, I cannot.
Me: But I am about to get on a six-hour flight. Is there a doctor there I can speak to?
Hotline: I highly suggest that do not take any medicine without a prescription.
Me: I do have a prescription. It is just for the wrong illness. I won’t hold you responsible if I o.d. In fact, you can prevent me from overdosing by telling me the correct dose.
Hotline: I cannot prescribe medicine.

This went on and on. But as we were speaking (thanks, Tokyo, for primo wireless internet), we googled “Cipro” and found out that I should just double the dose.

As we boarded the next flight, I thought about how I could have posted my Cipro query on Fodors. Surely KimJapan would have known the answer and responded instantly. Or maybe Kathie would have been awake.

Next: Why We Didn't Love Bangkok

Its okay...If everyone loved Bangkok, it would get so darn crowded that no one could enjoy it!

More......we need more! This post is fantastic....I knew from the title I would enjoy it.

Thinking you are about to board a plane with a flesh eating virus is no laughing matter, but obviously all came out well, as you are able to write about it with such humor and some great tips about handling emergency illness while traveling. Please keep this going....

lcuy,
Bkk is so darn crowded - that was part of our problem!
suehuml,
The job with the first class travel had lousy pay, they just cared about appearances.
Kathie, Bob, Lindsey, jenskar, Florence,
Thanks so much...I originally wrote something much drier, but after Gpanda's reprimand for tardiness, I thought I would add some of the wackier moments.

i also hope that you have now noted all the posts about bumbergard (sp)hospital in bkk....they would have you up and going in no time...

btw, please don't wait to accumulate that many miles, just pay and go...

Bangkok crowded??? OMG, when did that happen?? It was so serene and relaxing last time I was there!

i hardly saw a person on the street

Enjoying your report...

More please, before this thread falls off of page one!
Carol

Big surprise, Bob did not see a person on the street. Neither did Godzilla.

Pandas do not reprimand. We are unwilling to EVER cast the first stone. Sometimes, we do make strong suggestions. Keep the report rolling.

Thanks, everyone.

I have sent the next installment to Jed for spellchecking. Should be ready to post by this afternoon.

Good, we are all waiting
Sue

Its a great report already. I was in tears laughing at your description of your call to the nurse. Just glad you had internet acccess and found the right dosage.

Am traveling to Thailand in November with my 23 year old son, so looking forward to the next installments.

BANGKOK:
Day 1 – Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Wat Pho, Massages, Pool, Tongue Thai
Day 2 – Klong tour, Skytrain to Jim Thompson house, MBK Mall, Pool, Thiptara
Day 3 – Coffee with friends at Oriental, then on to Siem Reap

Sorry guys, but we felt two days and three nights was enough. Will never know if it was the jet lag, the ear infection from hell, or the Tongless touring. We do have happy memories of the Reclining Buddha (which I would revisit every time we’re in town), klongs, Skytrain, food and massages, but we weren’t fans of the pollution and particularly of the traffic. Will get our lowlights out of the way first.

Why We Didn’t Love Bangkok:
1) Traffic
Unusually awful that week, everyone said. Snarls, gridlock and road closures made it nearly impossible to get around other than by boat and Skytrain (both easy and fun without a guide).
- Took 15 minutes to travel a distance of just two blocks on our way back to the Peninsula from Wat Pho. (This happens in LA, and it drives us crazy here as well.)
- Peninsula concierge talked us out of Muay Thai boxing, said it would take more than an hour to get to the stadium.
- Nightmare 90-minute ride from the Peninsula to Suvarnabhumi in a tiny taxi with luggage in our laps (I know – Should have taken the limo…What were we thinking?)

2) Pollution
A relief to see blue skies when we arrived in Cambodia.

3) Scam Artists
Just about everyone we met in Thailand was warm, upbeat and respectful. So our boys, who usually love the locals, were put off by the ubiquitous “tuk tuk liers” who tried to convince us that Wat Pho was closed or that Tongue Thai was a horrible restaurant. We weren’t fooled, but met a British family that had missed seeing the Grand Palace and had spent hundreds of pounds at a “gem factory” instead.

4) MBK Mall:
Overwhelming. Decided it stands for “Mostly Bogus Kitsch” - 12 floors of redundant merchandise – Sneakers, cell phones, old-fashioned gold jewelry and knock-off teeny bopper outfits. That said, we had delicious Tom Yom Soup at the spotless new food court (with live jazz) on the sixth floor. (And I must disclose that I bought my new favorite everyday earrings there, large 23k gold hoops.)

5) Family discord at Jim Thompson house:
JT House was highlight for me, but underappreciated by all males in the family. A must-see for anyone interested in design, gardens or collecting Asian art. Wanted to move in, or at least shop for more than five minutes. Managed to buy a fabulous striped silk scarf (1600B) in the allotted time.

6) No Tong/No Chatuchak/No Amazing Bangkok Bicycle Tour
Long story, but Tong didn’t think it was a good idea to visit the “JJ” market on a Friday while vendors set up, as we had planned. She wanted to us to go her Secret Place instead, but a) wasn’t sure we’d make it back in time for our flight to Siem Reap (because of crazy traffic that day), and b)the SP involves encounters with monkeys and our younger son is a recovering monkey attack victim. Had many fun phone conversations with Tong (and subsequent email correspondence) and hope to meet her next time. Cancellation was her idea and she refused to take any money.

And we had to forego the bike tour because of the escalating ear infection that now seeemed to be Cipro-resistant.

Next: Bangkok’s Redeeming Qualities

CC-don't worry about not loving BKK. Very few are neutral. One either loves it (many on this forum) or hates it. It does help to adopt a Mai Pen Rai attitude. BKK definitely does not succumb to western notions of order and schedule. It just makes the massages more enjoyable.

I, too, am sorry that you were not a big fan of BKK. It is my favorite city of all! Yes, MBK is a place you either love or hate. I always make time for MBK (but I've discovered that prices there are TOO EXPENSIVE... lol)

Were we stuck in traffic at the same time??? I was just in BKK a couple of weeks ago, and was in traffic for 45 minutes for a trip that should have been about 10 minutes; it made me 30 minutes late for an appt at Bumrungrad. Lucky for me, I was still able to see the doc anyway.

I hope you managed to enjoy the Peninsula, in spite of not caring much about BKK. The Penn is a wonderful hotel!

Carol

Gpanda & Carol
We did have a good time in Bangkok, didn't hate it at all, just didn't fall in love. Didn't mind the lack of order except when we were stuck in vehicles.

BANGKOK’S REDEEMING QUALITIES (AND GREAT MOMENTS):

PENINSULA:
Superb, with impeccable service and one of the world’s best breakfast settings. However, at the risk of sounding like an ingrate, next time we might try somewhere less westernized. Our first image of Asia (besides Souvarnabhumi) was the huge Christmas tree in the lobby.

Booked through Amex Platinum, upgraded to two connecting rooms with private entrance and foyer on the 33rd floor. Rate included late checkout, welcome gift, fuzzy fruits, and four FREE massages.

New spa will win awards. More on the par of a “destination spa” than a hotel spa. Features a post-massage relaxation area, in case you’re not relaxed enough. My “treatment consultant” suggested the aromatherapy (rather than the Thai) massage because I seemed like a pain-adverse wimp. Macho husband was thrilled with his Thai massage.

PENN/ORIENTAL COMPETITION:
Couldn’t wait to get a handle on this one. A worldly cousin who had stayed at both said she’d never go back to the Penn. A colleague with taste we trust had stated the opposite.

So we took the boat across the Chao Phraya. Had coffee with friends at the Oriental and became intrigued with the street life near the hotel. Though we loved the boats, when we returned to our side of the river, it felt like we were staying in Queens. So our vote goes to the Oriental for a walkable neighborhood….but wait – the Penn clearly wins for everything else - view, value service, rooms (unless you’re in the pricey vintage wing of the Oriental), and the stellar breakfasts.

THE GRAND PALACE FASHION POLICE:
Thanks to poor guidebook-reading skills, three of us were cited for being underdressed at the Grand Palace (me in capris, the boys in basketball shorts.) If the boys had not been wearing what looked like smelly gym clothes, I might have passed the test. Guards had a conference about my pants length, which I suspect were borderline, off by just an inch or so. Finally we were all sent off to a busy locker room to rent a photogenic wardrobe, a sarong with gold elephant motif for me and drawstring martial arts pants for the boys. No attire issues at the other wats.

PENINSULA HOUSE CALLS AND COMPLIMENTARY EAR DROPS:
After 36 hours of Cipro, ear hadn’t improved. Guest directory at the Peninsula said there was a Doctor on Call and a House Nurse. They weren’t kidding: Ninety seconds after I rang the front desk, the nurse, in a crisp white uniform, appeared at our door with a black bag full of diagnostic instruments. She looked in my ear with a high tech device, administered antibiotic eardrops, bowed and said she’d be back at six for a follow-up visit. At six o’clock on the dot she reappeared, this time with the House Doctor. (We were slightly disappointed that he was not in a surgical outfit, but he did look spiffy in a Lacoste shirt.) He checked my ear, confirmed that the Cipro was indeed the drug of choice, cleared me for a visit to Cambodia then bowed and said he was off to make his rounds, treating the hotel staff.

Maybe the Penn is the best hotel in the world: We were never charged for the consultations or the magic ear drops, which I’m convinced, worked a lot better than the Cipro.

BEST MEALS IN BANGKOK/FODORS ADDICTION CONFESSION:
Thiptara – Thai restaurant on the River at the Peninsula. Wish the whole hotel looked like this. Had our own candle-lit sala on the river. Open-air setting with bamboo torches, traditional music and canals is incredibly exotic, reminded me of Bali (or the tribal council area of Survivor). Bill for four came to around $60.

Tongue Thai - the best Green Curry of the trip. And it was at Tongue Thai that I gathered up the courage to make a long-overdue confession to my husband and one of our sons. (We had left the other one asleep at the hotel in a jet-lagged stupor.) Told them that I, in recent weeks, had become addicted to the Travel Talk Forums at www.fodors.com. Blurted out everything about my Fodors habit– even how I had started giving people advice about how to avoid speeding tickets in Costa Rica.

Conversation went something like this:

ME: Bob highly recommended this restaurant.
HUSBAND: Who’s Bob?
ME: rhkkmk, A guy from the Fodors website, one of the gurus on the Asian forum.
SON: You met a guy online? Mom, what were you thinking?
ME: Don’t worry. He’s happily married to Karen.
HUSBAND: How can we trust his taste in restaurants if we know nothing about him?
ME: I do know a lot about him. He’s from Boston, enjoys long swims at the Marriot and lowercase typing. But crellston was the one who told me how to order here.
SON: Is crellston married too?
ME: I’m not even sure if crellston is male or female. But he or she taught me what to say to get our food spicy - chorp phet kaa.

This worked perfectly and meal was excellent.

Next: Siem Reap – Wat a Place

crosscheck, I'm very much enjoying your report. Given your dislikes about Bangkok, I wonder whether we do newcomers a disservice by recommending the Pen despite it's legendary service. Why? It is on the wrong side of the river. For veteran Bangkok goers, that's not much of an issue (though I must admit I'd "never" stay on the wrong side of the river) because they understand the transport issue. But for newcomers, transport is sometimes hard to figure out, so they end up in unneceaasry traffic jams. I am remembering the recent first-time visitor to Bangkok who arranged a car and driver to the Grand Palace and Wat Po from the Pen. She complained that the traffic was terrible and it took their driver 45 minutes to get from the Grand Place to Wat Po. Now that is a travesty, as they are right next door to each other! As I read your report, I wondered why you were taking a taxi from Wat Po to the Pen. But you likely didn't know that you could have walked two blocks to the dock, taken a water taxi, then transferred to the Pen boat at Taksim. Even getting to/from the airport is more difficult on the "wrong" side of the river. (And the Pen should have told you to take their boat across the river and catch a taxi or limo from there!)

I have to agree with you about malls like MBK (though I've never been there - just the descriptions make it clear that it's not for me!). And I think had you had more time in Bangkok, we could have recommended some great places for you to visit while husband and sons did something else, since they didn't like the JT House.

Anyway, keep it, coming, I love your report!

Thanks, Kathie.

We did know that we could take a boat back to the Pen from Wat Pho (that's how we got there). But we had the idea of going to the JT house for lunch so we got into a cab. After sitting in terrible traffic for 15 minutes we decided to go back to the hotel instead.

crosscheck
I'm glad BKK had its redeeming qualities for you. Maybe you'll return someday?

Kathie... do at least give MBK a look! There's nothing like seeing it for yourself. This is a true Thai mall IMO. I won't, however, be buying much at MBK anymore because of the new market I visited this last trip. You and I are shopping for very different things, that much I understand.

Carol

Kathie-in truth, Beth and I are not fans of MBK. It's sort of amusing to dash through, but the shopping leaves something to be desired.

CC-the amazing thing about Tongue Thai is that it has not ever been crowded when we've been there. Just a few tables occupied. While Harmonique is a tad better, it seems that TT should have many more customers. Probably not enough mention by guide books or hotels.

Since I always carry the full med kit on vacations (and I know I should be asking my family md this, and I will on Thursday), but I thought cipro was best for gi problems....Z paks are for respiratory problems...ear, neck glands, kinda nose throat related. I would have taken the z pak if I could not have gotten a doc in time. Sometimes one needs to self-medicate on trips. We also used a doctor in Thailand, Chiang Mai for a bad, bad measles with ear infection. I forget which antibiotic he recommended, but it was not Cipro. In Vietnam we could not get doctor in small town and older person quite sick. Lots of phone calls to London but I did have the med the doc recommended and it worked.

you made me laugh....the first time we met a fodorite it was ingo in dresden germany....our 30ish daughter hit the roof...."how do you know he is not an axe murderer, are you crazy, you DO NOT MEET PEOPLE FROM THE INTERNET!!!"---note the upper case....the same daughter said never type in capitals...haha

glad it all worked for you...

I think we took 1 taxi our whole time in BKK -- used the skytrain/river taxis for everything except one trip back from a distant Soi one night, so we really did not experience alot of traffic. I can imagine spending that amount of time in a cab would put my teeth on edge.
I do remember being ridiculously hot and fatigued the day we saw the Grand Palace and Wat Po -- all of which lends credence to the "book a driver" school of thought -- of course, then you're back in traffic.
Glad the magic ear drops seemed to work -- am looking forward to your take on Siem Reap.

we are just the opposite...largely because i am lazy...

we use taxis every day and many times per day...

we feel that we see a lot more using taxis....we hate the traffic jams and after a while you know where they will be: sukhumvit, low soi numbers, and lower silom to name two..

we often use the skytrain as well and most often we use the skytrain and then finish the trip with a taxi ride to our destination and do the same in reverse...

we just sit back and relax and enjoy the ride and try to outhink the driver...

Carol,
I'm certain we'll return to BKK. Might even return to MBK. Kids never got to go bowling there.

Gpanda,
I am surprised that TT hasn't made the guidebooks. Just a matter of time before there's a line out the door.

Elainee,
We did also have Z-packs but I think doc chose Cipro because I had a skin infection in my outer ear rather than the ear canal (too much information?)

BTW our travel doc (who was going to Myanmar the same week) said some gastro bugs in SE Asia are now Cipro-resistant and we should use the Z-pack for gastro issues. Pediatrician didn't agree so that's why we also had Cipro.

Bob,
Perfect role reversal - kids trying to protect grownups from predators...

jenstar,
Had a feeling we should avoid taxis...In retrospect I think our extreme aversion to the traffic was caused by jetlag and residual travel stress. If we had visited BKK at the end of the trip, would have been more forgiving.

CC-TT is in one guide book, but perhaps they don't pay the vig.

I've ridden in cabs with Bob and I can guarantee that he has not "outthought" a single one. Close to impossible. On one memorable ride Bob and the driver conversed for 15 minutes and neither understood a single word the other spoke. Karen, Beth and I were catatonic with laughter.

When do we get to the elephant incident? Dilatory tactics will not help when we get to the sentencing phase of the penalty.

I too am wondering if your medical supply kit comes into use again for the boy falls off elephant bit.
Sue

momssk,
Forgot to thank you before. Your 23-yr old will adore Thailand (and will be more careful on elephants than my 13-yr. old).

gpanda,
Elephant incident occurs at the Anantara, two episodes ahead. I give you permission to skip Siem Reap installment.

SueHml,
There will be a medical kit tie-in, but that's all I can divulge now.

crosscheck
I've never bowled in BKK but DS has. I have visited a couple of bowling places however. I got a really big kick out of the "shoozer"... it's a big vending machine for bowling shoes! Put in your money, and out come the shoes in your size... Wanted to snap a photo of the machine but the sign says no cameras allowed... darn..

Carol

Pandas skip nothing! Bring on the temples. The flavor of a report is best savored after digesting the entire meal. NB:exceptions are made for Bob's endless drivel.

SIEM REAP

Day 1 – BKK-SR, Ponheary, Bats in Park, Tuk Tuk to Khmer Kitchen

Day 2 – School Visit, Bantay Srei, Palm Sugar Roadside Stop, Lunch/Swim, Ta Phrom, Bayon, Monkeys, Sunset climb to Behking (our only super-touristy activity, but good exercise), Dead Fish Tower

Day 3- Angkor Wat, Wat Thmey, Tonle Sap Floating Village, Lunch, Swim, Massage, Chess, Shop, Xmas Dinner

Day 4 – Back to Angkor Wat for Sunrise, Shopping, SR-BKK-Chiang Rai

We’re passionate about Cambodia and the Cambodians, who seem to love life despite their tragic history and dire economic situation. Like others, we dream of returning, perhaps for an extended service project. Siem Reap is not traditionally picturesque, but has a certain quirky tropical charm, and seemed clean and efficient compared to many Latin American cities of the same size. But we agree with everyone who says to go now – It looked as if they were building a dozen MBK malls.

Ponheary was unavailable after we changed our dates, but she met us at the airport, took us to our hotel and arranged for our guide (Bunto), driver, donation and school visit. We will never forger her story about being buried alive by the Khmer Rouge at age thirteen, the same age as our younger son.

VICTORIA ANGKOR -
Might be the best hotel in Siem Reap. Vietnamese owned replica of a tropical Indochine colonial inn. So authentic it could have been designed by Jim Thompson – art, artifacts, koi ponds, infinity pools, cage elevator, chic Europeans in safari clothes telling tales of Hanoi at the bar. Around the corner from the iconic Grand Raffles facing the Royal Gardens, the Victoria is less formal than the Raffles, more understated and comfortable. We had two “deluxe” rooms on the third floor with wood floors, balconies, pool views. (Note to other families: No connecting rooms here, but they had some interesting themed suites.) Excellent food. Mandatory Christmas Eve buffet was over the top (in quantity and price - $70 pp), but delicious, and included nifty party favors.

Don’t miss the hundreds of bats descending from the trees in the park at dusk.

OUR GUIDE BUNTO -
Ponheary’s friend, good English, recommended. At first prone to overly detailed descriptions of the ruins. But when we asked for more cultural info, his stories became less rote, more kid-friendly, and we learned a lot about Cambodian history and daily life.

WE VIOLATED THE FODORITE 3-DAY ANGKOR RULE:
We were blown away by the ruins, even more than expected. However it turns out that we are not “Three Day Angkor Wat People.” We must have Temple ADD, because as although we dutifully scheduled 72 hours to see the magnificent ruins of Angkor, we completed our sightseeing in 1.5 days. I’m sure we missed some cool stuff, but we felt we had the right amount of time at each stop. On Day 3, I did return to Angkor Wat for a spectacular sunrise, but if I had gotten it together, could have done that on Day 2.

Having said that, we could have stayed in Cambodia for months, but I do recommend going even if you only have two days to see the temples.

SIEM REAP GREAT MOMENTS:
- Delivering hot breakfast (noodles and juice) to 250 kids and bonuses for the teachers at Ponheary’s school near Bantay Srei. A major trip highlight. Saw a math lesson. Kids sang us a song. Tried to sing them a song, but our boys became mortally embarrassed. Stayed for recess. Could have hung out all day.
- Bayon & Ta Phrom late in the day -- fewer tourists and magical lighting
- Traveling on back roads through rice paddies with water buffalos to meet families making palm sugar candy in their front yards – This was the rural Asia I craved.
- Tonle Sap floating village boat tour (with a fancy floating basketball court courtesy of the Japanese government) - This prompted a provocative dinner conversation with the boys who thought the villagers, though dirt poor, seemed very happy.
- Husband had a $6 massage at Magic Massage near the Royal Park – Said it was "as good as the Peninsula without the atmosphere"
- Wat Prea in the Royal Park – A feast of wacky Buddhist relics and retro posters. Plus they sell turtles outside.
- Wat Thmey - Monastery with colorful stupas and sobering killing field memorial (including skull room). Kids were affected by seeing this more than by hearing stories.
- Land Mine Orchestra at Bantaey Srei, especially the guy playing the leaf - bought their CD

LOWLIGHTS:
- Spent the whole flight from BKK-SR filling out TWELVE Cambodian landing documents, three per family member, because everyone else conveniently fell asleep when the forms were handed out. This Immigration Card Fatigue Syndrome became a pattern that repeated itself throughout the trip.

- Too Many Community Service Opportunities – We know four families who were there during the same period and everyone donated and worked in different schools, orphanages or clinics, all set up by their guide or hotel. Makes you want to abandon your vacation entirely.

BEST MEALS:
- Boray Sourvann - Green papaya salad for lunch (the best we had anywhere) Sit outside in the garden.
- Khmer Kitchen - Amok Fish and Green Curry ($12 for all four of us including French wine.) Best dive of the trip. Lonely Planet said that Mick Jagger ate here.
- Dead fish Tower – Hip teen-friendly, multilevel dining in a surreal setting with low tables, crocodile pit, with gorgeous Apsara dancers (This place is a must-see for the atmosphere rather than the food, which is fine, but not an absolute stand out.)

FAVORITE PURCHASES:
- Pillow covers, Artisans d'Angkor ($35) They look even better once you get them home.
- Gorgeous Khmer silk scarf or table runner, Senteurs d’Angkor ($27)
- Vintage Burmese puppet head on wooden stand, Hanumanalaya Hotel shop ($30)
(BTW – the Hanumanalaya Hotel, a small guesthouse, is a “find” – $50-$85 a night. I didn’t see the rooms, but public spaces have charming, exotic gardens and you can use the Sofitel’s pool and gym.
- Palm sugar candy, road to Bantay Srei (3 for $1)
- Silver and bronze Buddha statues – Old Market ($15-$25) (Befriended a vendor and kept going back just to hear her stories)
- Spices in cool little baskets, Siem Reap airport (under $3) Airport shopping was great in general.

Next: The Golden Triangle, including the Elephant Mishap

Thank you so much for continuing with the report....I loved your descriptions of your children's experiences at the school in Cambodia. My husband and I visited a school with Ponheary in May....I'm trying to convince my husband to take a trip back, along with the 3 kids ages 10-15.

Thanks again

Thanks for your interesting and very entertaining report. We too had enough of the ruins after 2 full days of touring. Loved it the first day and was templed out at the end of the second. Was happy to spend our third day seeing the floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake and doing other things away from the temples.

cruisinred,
Definitely go back with your kids - It wasn't my kids' absolute favorite part of the trip (that would be Anantara elephants and Tokyo), but they loved climbing on the ruins and seeing the floating villages and the memories will stay with them.

I thought one visit to Angkor would be enough for me, but I want to return and see more of Cambodia.

Just realized that I left out a significant lowlight: My husband developed acrophobia and vertigo halfway up Angkor Wat. (This had happened previously at other ruins, ziplines, etc. but he keeps trying.)

shelleyk,
I've been following your report and can't wait to see what comes next. You get major points for posting so soon after your return. Though I plan to include a detailed description of the Toilet of the Future, I still fear I will face a penalty.

i did not climb up there either....and way too hot

Being at the highest level of Angkor Wat was spectacular - getting up and down was - eeek - and I'm not usually bothered by heights.

CC-you're doing great, the report is very engaging. Your clear crisp prose is a relief from Needhamite nonsense. It will be taken into consideration during the penalty phase. I do note that once begun, the report continues promptly. Perhaps a mitigating factor.

Wow, thanks! Considered embellishing the elephant story, but will stick with the truth and hope for a lenient sentence.

Crosscheck -- could not agree with you more about the effect of being around Cambodian people and their ability to transcend their recent history. My trip in 2000 left me humbled, I wanted to sell everything and move to Phnom Penh and work for an NGO, spent the next year promoting land mine clearing programs from here (troublesome being happily married some times).
What a great experience for your kids and for you.

jenskar,
Thanks - Would love more info about the land mine NGO. Am compliling a list of Cambodian volunteer opportunities.

Anantara installment should be up by the morning.

I'd love to see your list. And, eagerly awaiting the elephants !!

The group I supported isn't really a volunteer opportunity -- they had a "click through" sponsorship program where donors gave a certain amount of money per click towards land mine clearing programs. I developed a web site that mimicked a "shock the monkey" type banner ad but showed the impact of land mines on the Cambodian population, the click throughs supported the program. It was pretty widely publicized through several online lit mags in the early 2000's and I drove a lot of traffic in their direction. They're still doing great work: http://www.clearlandmines.com/

Fantastic trip report! I CANNOT wait to experience some of it for myself...just 9 days away!

GOLDEN TRIANGLE:
Day 1: Travel, Chiang Rai Night Market, Dinner at hotel
Day 2: Elephant Mahout Training/Elephant Baths, Walk to town, Squash
Day 3: Cooking Class, Hall of Opium, Squash
Day 4: Three Countries – Myanmar, Mae Sai, Golden Triangle, Lao Island
Day 5: More elephant baths, Back to Lao Island (left glasses there) CR-BKK-NRT

1-2-GO AIRLINES:
1-2-Go (Thai Orient) Airlines (BKK-Chiang Rai – $50 pp) Not 1-2-Avoid, but for the price, 1-2-Consider. Chose this because the flight arrived in CR at the right time to visit the night market on our way to the Anantara. We had cut Luang Prabang from our itinerary because my husband refused to fly on Lao Airlines, then heard 1-2-Go might be just as scary because they have an ancient fleet. Plane turned out to be fairly modern. Flight was delayed by an hour, otherwise fine. Returned to BKK on Thai, very similar. And 1-2-Go sent us an online holiday card.

CHIANG RAI MARKET:
Arranged to have the Anantara van meet our flight in Chiang Rai and take us to the night market before the one-hour trip to the hotel. Pricier than a regular taxi, but we wanted someone to watch our luggage while we strolled around the market. Other than Japan, this was the only shopping the boys enjoyed (they bought T-shirts with Thai inscriptions which we hope are not “R” rated) Fun, laidback intro to hilltribe culture.

ANANTARA:
This place lives up to the hype. Except for two near-arctic nights and some overpriced services, one of our peak travel experiences ever. It has culture, luxury, adventure, cuisine, museum-quality decor, rice paddies, water buffalos, misty vistas of the Mighty Mehkong, and a teen-friendly fitness center with squash and tennis.

All this plus the Elephant Camp, an absolute highlight – though only the boys did the mahout training, we all rode them bareback. (Reserve in advance!)

Booked a suite directly through the hotel; later discovered the Small Luxury Hotels website which promised an upgrade if you join and book through their SLH Club.
Tried to rebook, but hotel’s cancellation deadline had passed. Subsequently found out upgrade wouldn’t work in our case because all suites were full our week, but SLH Club is a good idea for less-busy periods.

Our spacious suite (Rm 331), full of hip fabrics that I wish were for sale, was in the building next to the lobby with unobstructed Myanmar views. Much sunnier than the rooms on the Laos side of the pool.

Food at hotel is very good to excellent. Shared khao soy, famous northern Thai curry noodles, at every meal. (I know, we do have a thing for noodles). Themed buffets were very appealing, but too much food - we mostly stuck with the reasonable a la carte menu. Dined once in the Italian restaurant, which has a door that closes to protect you from the cold. Tasty, but why have pizza and pasta in Thailand?

We donated and planted a tree near the elephant camp. Kids thought this was hokey, but would be good for younger kids. Also made merit with monks on the road (do this only if you happen to be awake).

Had planned have dinner in town one evening but never managed to tear ourselves away. The Anantara makes you slow down and relax. Could have stayed for a week or more.

THAI PRONUNCIATION OF “ANANTARA”
a-NAHN-ta-ra, with the stress on the second syllable

ANANTARA GREAT MOMENTS:
- The amazing elephants – One-day mahout training for the boys; the trek for us. This was a (if not the) trip highlight for all of us.
- Cooking Class – There were seven of us in the class (from all over), plus the General Manager of the Anantara, who goes out of his way to interact with the guests. He shopped and cooked with our class and used us as kind of a focus group. Class included a visit to the market in Chiang Sean, a stop for wonderful coffee with the locals and a tour of Anantara’s impressive organic garden. Then you go to a dream kitchen where you are presented with a chef’s hat and cookbook. We prepared Pad Thai, green curry and coconut banana dessert, all delicious and fairly easy to duplicate at home. Our 16-year old jock happily participated.
-The Hall of Opium – The history of the entire world as influenced by drugs – fascinating and a perfect heads-up for teens. A must-see before going into Burma; it will provide context.

OUR CUSTOM 3-COUNTRY TOUR:
Hired Toy and a van with her husband as our driver. She speaks excellent English, understands the nuances of touring with kids, and tells hilarious stories about her childhood in Bangkok. Spending the day with her was like traveling with a smart and funny friend. Left the Anantara at 8 am and were back by 2 pm.

We walked over the Friendship Bridge into Myanmar, which instantly felt like another world. Crossing the border itself was a great adventure for the kids. Had to park our van on the Thai side and leave our passports with a lethargic soldier in a rundown office right out of the ‘50s. Had a choice of hiring two rickshaws or an ancient colorful truck with wooden benches in the back. Chose the truck. Traveled on dusty roads past the local “gas station”, a roadside shack where a woman sold soda bottles full of petrol. (Probably illegal - She wouldn’t let us take photos.)

Spent about three hours visiting:
- a Shan village (friendly people, many watching t.v. or doing laundry in open houses)
- a Mon village (girls selling crafts, no men in sight)
- a golden pagoda (replica of the Schwedagon in Yangon) where we stood at shrines corresponding to the days of the week we were born and released caged birds (More dinner conversation material: Is it okay to catch birds, then charge people to release them?)

Next, back to the Thai border town of Mae Sai, mostly tourist stalls. Toy cleverly kept everyone occupied at a small jade “factory” while I purchased 18k chandelier earrings with tiny sapphires ($130).

Then a fast longboat to the Lao island. Not the real Laos, of course, but kids loved bragging rights of visiting three countries in a morning. Toy timed it so we were the only ones besides the vendors on the island. I acquired some woven cotton/silk table runners ($15) while the men had a meal of Lao noodles and checked out some intriguing items, like Tiger Penis whiskey (which, to my horror, my husband allowed the boys to taste).

THE ELEPHANT MISHAP:
After a morning of learning elephant commands, our 13-year old son had mastered “turn right”, “turn left”, “kneel down”, but hadn’t yet learned the instruction for “Don’t submerge yourself in a yucky river while I’m barely holding onto your neck”.

As a result, while bathing his elephant, he slipped off and fell into the muddy waters of the Ruak River. He thought this was very funny and so did his elephant, who sprayed him (twice) in glee. The mahouts, also amused, kept his head out of the water. But I was concerned after reading KimJapan’s post about her daughter ending up in the hospital with a serious infection after exposure to a Northern Thai river during a similar elephant incident.

Before the bath, my husband and son, who share the same shoe size, had left their sneakers on a rock next to the river. Freshly bathed, their elephants thumped out of the water and, with their trunks, “handed” the right shoes to the right owners. (And we thought our dog was a genius.)

Arrived back to the room with a drenched child in stinky soaked clothes. Googled “Ruak River.” Found an environmental risk report about the toxic wastewater at the confluence of the Ryak and Mehkong rivers, exactly the site of the elephant incident.

Luckily an insomniac friend happened to be online, a well-traveled expert parent who knows everything, so I instant-messaged her for advice:

CROSSCHECK: r u there?
EXPERTMOM: hey – how’s it going in thailand?
CROSSCHECK: great, except son slid off elephant into filthy river with elephant dung, chinese industrial contaminants and burmese sewage
EXPERTMOM: yikes! give him doxycycline…that’s what the bev hills travel doc recommends for fresh water exposure, can be used to prevent infection
CROSSCHECK: uh-oh.santa monica trav doc didn’t agree, so we don’t have doxy...how about the z-pack? tamiflu? (we are out of cipro)
EXPERTMOM: no, i think it has to be doxycycline
CROSSCHECK: what if I just scrub him down with purell?
EXPERTMOM: you could try…good luck

We ended up using just the fancy green tea Anantara soap. It has now been eight weeks, and so far, no fevers or nasty rashes.

WORSE THAN THE ELEPHANT MISHAP: MISSED GETTING IT ON VIDEOTAPE
Boy, am I lame with a camcorder. Got a decent shot of our son falling into the river, but pressed the “pause” button thinking it was “record” and missed the part when the elephant sprayed him with her trunk.

ANANTARA RANTS:
-2 (of 4) arctic nights - Many guests wore parkas to breakfast and dinner. A British couple spoke of circulating a petition demanding that the staff close the sliding doors to the open-air restaurant. The pool was freezing as well, but the “hot” tub was ok for kids.
-Tours and cooking school were pricey - Thanks to advice from Fodorites we hired our own guide and driver instead of going on the pre-set 3-country tour. If you’re willing to splurge, though, they now offer a fascinating day trip to the “real Laos”, includes hilltribes and festivals.
-“Aromatic Facial” was truly awful, a harsh 60-minute rub of the face and neck (at first I thought this could have been California spa snobbery on my part, but two Australian guests had the same reaction)
-Several of the concierge staff, though well-meaning, were clueless about the activities. One said it was “too cold” to go on the sunset Akha village trek; other guests later reported that the air temp was ideal for trekking.
- Town of Sop Ruak (worth visiting just for the free tea samples at the Chinese markets) is one mile away, but there’s no free shuttle. If you go in the hotel van, you must hire it for three hours. (But it’s an easy walk and you can find taxis there – Bring your phrasebook)

BOOK RECOMMENDATION:
A quick plug for Amy Tan's "Saving Fish From Drowning": Although it received mixed reviews, this was the perfect read for this portion of the trip because it is a well-researched story about an art tour group kidnapped by a Karen hilltribe in Burma. It does have plot issues, but it is a page turner and a good choice for SE Asia travelers.

Next: Tokyo, including the Toilet

My husband and I are going to Thailand in a couple of weeks. Part of our trip will be 5 nights at Anantara. How did you book Toy as your driver? I am very torn over Laos or the GT area. Can Toy take people into Laos or will we have to do the hotel tour? Thanks for all the information!!!

i think the area that kim japan's daughter was in was far more restricted and thus the water was pretty stagnant....more of a pool type area...

Nice going with the camcorder. You must have taken panda lessons. There was a memorable happenstance at Warwick Castle that is still remarked upon by Mrs. Panda. Thankfully, I have forgotten the entire incident.

Are you planning your next trip yet?

jenstar,
Your site looks terrific. Will let you know when I get the list together.

hucklecat,
How lucky you are to be going so soon. Wish I could go back. In writing this report, I keep thinking of things I missed (and stuff I should have bought.)

rolltide,
We booked Toy through the hotel, highly recommended by other guests who had toured with her a few days before us. At the time we thought her name was "Doi", but we have since been corrected by another poster who used her after we did (and was also thrilled).

Because there were four of us we needed a van. Toy's husband was the driver. I think it came to 850B an hour for both(almost $25), very high, but worth it because they were so great. Would be less for a smaller car.

Toy definitely takes people into Laos. She even took tourists by fast boat to Luang Prabang.

When we were there in December, the Anantara was just starting tours into the Laos interior. A few guests went on a full-day trip to a (previously) unspoiled hilltribe village where there happened to be a very colorful festival. Saw their photos - awesome.

Bob,
I think you're right about KimJapan's daughter. She hasn't been around for awhile - I'm a little concerned. I really wanted her to see my report because she was so helpful in the planning process

Great Report. We will be traveling with our 13 and 14 y.o. and it looks as if we have very similar traveling styles. Quick question on the Anantara, did you all share a suite? We usually book two rooms (as I see you did in BK and SM). Wondering if you don't think it necessary at Anantara.

Thanks.

Wow, your report sounds great! Got me all excited for my trip. You see, I am a Malaysian Chinese, but for 8 months of my life each year I spend it here, in Kursk Russia, where I study medic.

Me and 3 friends are planning to have a trip to Cambodia this coming august, from Malaysia. I am a little ashamed to admit this- but aside from the past PolPot regime, the Tonlesap and Angkor Wat, there isn't much I know about Cambodia.

I would like to know, for a short trip of 3 or 4 days (arriving and leaving from Siem Reap), how can I construct a meaningful trip?

This is too funny!! Makes me think I should fess up to my addiction to Fodor's also-would explain the dry chicken on many nights when I'm reading a great trip report like yours.

Would love to hear which trav doc you use in SM since I'm also in W. LA

Thanks so much, everyone. I've been having a lot of fun writing this, reliving the days. (Unfortunately my real work has suffered.)

Gpanda,
After almost 20 years of owning video cameras I can't seem to learn the difference between "record" and "pause". We recently attempted a family screening and found hours of footage of close-ups of the grass on the soccer field, the inside of my purse, etc.

As far as our next trip, we have some cool work-related ones coming up. But our next family vacation, I'm embarrassed to report, is our first (and probably only) cruise, a multigenerational Alaska excursion for my father-in-law's 90th bdy. We are not "cruise people" (can't stand variety shows, husband gets seasick, poor shuffleboard/karaoke skills, etc.) so I should have plenty of material for a trip report, especially if Norovirus strikes.

Seriously considering India or Tanzania for next winter, though.

AmyH,

We did all share a suite at the Anantara and there was plenty of room. Did this to save money, but were happy with our choice because the suites were a lot nicer than the single rooms.

The boys slept in the living area on a day bed and a rollaway. There's a revolving t.v. cabinet in between the two areas, so they hogged the television for their European soccer fix - which was fine with me...I hate t.v. on trips.

Huge open tub in the middle of the room overlooks Mehkong, potentially very romantic, but it can be closed off.

Aleckii,
Saw your post on another thread and you got excellent advice. You will love Cambodia. There is a great backpacker scene for people your age with excellent night life. For more info you might want to read "The Gate"

Oops - posted too soon.

Aleckii - "The Gate" is by French ethnologist Francois Bizot about his days in a Khmer Rouge prison. Very poor translation, but so far fascinating. (Haven't finished it yet.)

moremiles, Thanks for kind words. My kids are grumbling, waiting for dinner right now as I post.

Travel doc is Terri Rock. (Had to get that rhyme in.) Highly recommended though she and the famous BH travel doctor have differing antibiotic philosophies.

Thanks Crosscheck,
about Tanzania, the folks on the Africa board are amazing and you can read my trip report on our summer trip to Kenya/Tanzania! had the same experience in explaining all the comments from that forum to my family, including an attempt to meet up with some board folks while in the Masaai Mara!

I wouldn't feel embarrassed about an Alaskan cruise -- I would think that's one place where a cruise would really make sense, to get close to all that great scenery. We can't expect you to hike in, can we ??

I read The Gate -- really rather horrifying -- the entire Khmer Rouge period really is.

We did an Alaskan cruise with our teen and his friend and it was fun-would rather have gone back to Africa but the cruise turned out to be the right one for us-small ship, great excursions, beautiful scenery and I didn't feel like I was missing any great restaurants or hotels onshore.

Great report! I'm amazed at how cold it was when you were at the Anantara. We were there in November and expected it to be cooler. It was barely cool in the mornings and about 90 during the day! As you can imagine, the pool was nice and warm.

By the way, the place Kim's daughter fell in was at the elephant camp norther of CM, and I expect it ws a small pond (stagnant water) as opposed to a flowing river.

Great report! I'm now looking forward even more to our time at the Anantara in August.

Teaghan's river adventure was in Lampang at the Thai Elephant Conservation Center. The elephant bathing area there is part of a running river, but the bathing pool area is dammed so the water does not run through with much speed. While not stagnant, it is quite dirty, with as many as 10 or 12 eles bathing at the same time. She may or may not have gotten sick there...we'll never know for sure. But it is highest on our short list of suspicions.

Kim, glad to see you posting again - we missed you!

AmyH,
Just checked out your wonderful, super-comprehensive trip report and photos (fantastic B&Ws). I do feel Africa calling to me (but what about India?)

jenskar & moremiles,
Feel slightly better about Alaska now. But we are not on a "smaller" ship - we're on one of those giant floating Vegas-type vessels. It is sort of a relief (for once) not having to plan anything, though.

Kathie,
The GM of the Anantara told me there were only two really cold weeks a year, and I guess he wasn't exaggerating! I would love to be there when it's hot.

KimJapan,
Great to have you back and glad you like the report. You and Kathie(and many others on this board) were such a invaluable help with the planning...and you know how much I vascillated about everything. Hope I can help you with Anantara-related Qs.

Will get the Tokyo segment posted soon...

India and Nepal are fascinating countries to visit but I was there 20yrs ago so can't offer any up to date travel info-would love to go back and see the south though.

NEW YEARS WEEKEND IN TOKYO:
Day 1: Fish Market, Akihabara, Bowling, Seryna
Day 2: Harajuku, Mehji Shrine, Noodles, Shibuya video arcades, Gonpachi, New Years Countdown at Zojoji Temple
Day 3: Bowling, travel home, Boys go directly to Rose Bowl Game

Intended as a stopover to break up the trip, Tokyo was an absolute highlight for our kids, who want to return. The food, electronics, teen scene, metro and out-of-the-box New Years celebration were huge hits.

Big surprise: unlike the last time we were there, prices were not outrageous, in fact similar to New York.

TOKYO PRINCE PARK TOWER HOTEL:
Weird adjective order, but for the reasonable rate, a Zen highrise “find”. New Years is a very big deal in Japan. Waited too long to book and many hotels were full. Discovered the Prince Park Tower on the Leading Hotels of the World site. Not on the western tourist circuit – very little English.

Hotel is located in Shiba Park, near Eiffel-wannabe Tokyo Tower and Zozoji Temple, two metro stops from Roppongi. Fabulous views, including Mt. Fuji from breakfast room. At least ten attractive restaurants, though we ate out.

Offers a wacky array of facilities including an oxygen bar, pool/spa with an onsen (natural hot spring), boulangerie, four “mind and body” salons, costume gallery for photo ops, and, best of all, a futuristic bowling alley with instant video replays of your shots.

Main disadvantage is that you’re not in a "neighborhood" with shops you can walk to, but the in-house bowling made up for that.

Had two non-connecting Internet Special rooms for 23,500Y ($180) each a night, breakfast included (otherwise $37 pp). Upgraded to Tokyo Tower view because we booked through Leading Hotels (joined their club).

Room décor was Hiltonesque, not nearly on the level of the other places we stayed, but rooms are large for Tokyo and half the price of the Westin or the Park Hyatt. (There were multiple club floors of more luxurious and tatami rooms, much higher end.)

At first we thought we walked into a design convention: Fellow guests all seemed super stylish (even the senior citizens) but on further inspection, most people in Tokyo were quite fashionable. Tokyo is the Paris of Asia, where everyone knows how to tie a scarf.

TOKYO GREAT MOMENTS:
- New Years Countdown at Zojoji Temple in Shiba Park next to our hotel – an incredible celebration that rivals Times Square. Revelers strike a giant bell 108 times (lucky number); thousands attach their written New Years wishes to white eco-friendly balloons, then release the balloons at midnight against the backdrop of the shrine and Tokyo Tower as it lights up with a neon “2007”...ancient meets modern. We usually don’t like crowds or standing outside in the cold, but loved this.

- Tsukiji Fish Market (missed the auction because we arrived from BKK on the redeye that morning, but there was still plenty of action, chaos and fish when we got to the market at 9am)

- The walk to Mehji Shrine

- For the boys: Akihabara (electronics district), bowling at our hotel and Shibuya Kaikan video arcade (4 stories, classic games for 50Y – they preferred this to the cutting-edge Club Sega. Warning: Very LOUD).

LOST IN TRANSLATION:
We rarely have trouble communicating with speakers of other languages. But when we asked the concierge how to say “video arcade” in Japanese, she had no idea what we were talking about. Mimed joystick use and tried pronouncing “Mario Brothers” with a Japanese accent...Blank stares. Finally found a photo of a video arcade in the guidebook and pointed to it.

Aha! “Game Center!” she said.


BEST MEALS (Thanks, Fodorites, for the recommendations):
- Tsukiji Sushi-Sen across from the Fish Market – amazing blow-torched albacore
- All the Noodle Places (to continue the culniary theme of the trip), Stalls on the street; colorful dives where we had to point at plastic noodles to order
- Seryna Roppongi – we’ve had Kobe in Japan before, but after this steak and shabu-shabu, don’t know if we can ever go back to unmassaged beef. Warning: A MAJOR splurge.
- Gonpachi, Our New Years Eve (and anniversary) dinner. Great space: huge warehouse with low, wooden booths and open kitchen. On the tourist trail. Fun festive atmosphere, reasonable price, yummy food, small plates. (Get the crispy shrimp, black cod, hand-made soba noodles). This is where George W ate with the Prime Minister (but not where George HW threw up).

(BTW – not only is there a Seryna in New York, but a Gonpachi is opening in Beverly Hills)

SHOPPING:
ABC Mart (Harajuku and Shibuya) - The coolest sneakers on the planet (though they were sold out of many of the hottest styles)

THE TOILET:
About a week after we returned home from Asia, I ran into one of the moms who drives my younger son to baseball.

“I heard about your trip,” she said, grinning.

“What did you hear about?” I asked. “The longboats? The jungle ruins? The elephants?”

No, the carpool mom said, “The toilet in Tokyo.”

Yes, the males in the family all fell in love with the Toto Washlet in our hotel room. So fun, the boys chose to spend time in the lavatory rather than swim in the pool. So advanced, we nicknamed it the “Robo-toilet” for its many features:
- Air purifier
- Massaging, oscillating front and rear automatic warm-water "wand" with 3-temperature setting (boys called this the "butt-splasher")
- Jet dryer
- Heated SoftClose seat (to eliminate annoying toilet-seat "slam").

My husband (who had said “no way” when I expressed a desire to buy a coffee table like the one in the Anantara lobby) became obsessed with our Washlet, and wanted to curtail our sightseeing to spend as much time as possible in the bathroom.

Then on New Years Day, hours before we were leaving, he announced that we had to visit the Toto store (with its gallery/museum). Alas, it was closed.

But everything worked out. He found the identical toilet online and was thrilled to discover that he could purchase just the seat and attach it our low-tech American toilet. Ordered an upgraded model from a distributor near us - the Washlet E200, with remote control rather than the entry-level side panel we had in the hotel.

http://www.washlet.com/e200.asp

The ultimate Asian memento, it’s due to arrive next Tuesday.

Man buys Japanese toilet...????

cruisinred,
I think we were posting at the same time. Still debating whether to get a squat toilet for the boys.

Crosscheck, I have to ask - how much did the dinner cost in Tokyo at Seryna? How insane? Love the report, by the way! Where to after Alaska??

Great report, crosscheck! Who knew the hit of the trip wopuld be the Japanese toilet! And some of us were skeptical about a mere two days in Tokyo!

Really enjoyed this report!!! We too love Japan and can't get enough of it.

Did you know your husband can buy that Toto in the USA?

http://www.washlet.com/default.asp

We have them here in Hawaii and I almost installed one when we came back from Japan last year.

We decided to redo our bathroom and will install one when the redeco is complete.

Thanks again for all the effort and useful info.

Aloha!

crosscheck-
Can you provide a little more detail about your time in SR with guides? I could not tell how many days you used a guide and if you did any touring on your own during that part of the trip.
Thanks!

HT, that is so funny. I read a long article somewhere about the Japanese love of toilet gadgets (and there are even more!) and how visitors are so taken with them. It looks like if the Fodors crew is any indication that lots of people must come home and buy them on the internet!

crosscheck-
yes, I think we were posting at the same time....loving the report, sorry you have to end it in Tokyo.

CC-we're remodeling our downstairs bathroom. If Mrs. Panda sees this toilet story, the penalty could be doubled.

Wow...think of the trees these Toto toilet seats must save!!! Of course, that's balanced by the power used...but no more worrying about running out of TP!

Really enjoyed your report and hope you'll post another one after your cruise-but please tell us over here on the Asia board so we can check out the Alaska board!

this was a great report.

It sounded like you had a wonderful trip.

Thanks for the day you had at the Khna School. Those visits mean a lot to them.

Thanks again to everyone. First, some corrections from my husband:

1) Video camera in hotel bowling alley did not show instant replays. It displayed LIVE video close-ups of the ball hitting the pins.

2) Toilet is not arriving next Tuesday; it should be here in three weeks. Will provide a detailed report with plumbing hints.

Cookiepuss - The dinner at Seryna WAS insane - $550, but we rationalized it by amortizing all the $12 meals we had in Cambodia...and it was our anniversary, etc. etc.

For that amount four of us shared two kobe steaks and one kobe shabu shabu ($150 each for kobe anything) plus delicious, reasonably priced-tempura.

They also had wagyu beef for much less, and in retrospect we should have tried that to compare. The Kobe at Seryna was the best beef meal we've ever had and now that we're back in LA it doesn't seem so outrageous.

After Alaska we have a short east coast family trip and some big work-related trips. So my husband is not committing to Tanzania or India for next winter yet, but I'm working on him.

Kathie,
It's a good thing we didn't have more than two days in Tokyo. Who knows what other appliances we would have picked up.

HT,
Glad you are considering a Toto as well. It is a relief that we are not the only crazy Fodorites buying toilets from abroad instead of art or jewelry!

My husband did actually purchase the toilet in the US after he found it online, but it is coming from Japan. Sorry for the minor embellishment.

AmyH,
We had a guide for 1.5 days in Siem Reap (but paid him for two). Started every day at 7am, which was how we were able to do as much as we did. Check out the beginning of the SR section of my report to see a list of the specific temples we saw each day. We were with the guide for all of Day 2 and half of Day 3.

Didn’t tour on our own except for shopping and repeat sunrise visit to Angkor Wat on Day 4. For shopping I took tuk tuks and walked all over the place, including to silk farms on the outskirts of town. Just carry your hotel’s business card and you’ll be fine. When do you go?

crusinred,
Thanks, I too was sorry to have to end the trip. I keep wishing we had just had a few extra days for Luang Prabang.

Gpanda,
You might want to surprise Mrs. Panda with a musical toilet like the one in the ladies room of the JAL lounge.

Waiting instructions re: penalty.

zengeos,
Your post inspired my husband to tell people that he bought the toilet to be energy efficient. (We also have a hybrid.)

moremiles,
Do I have to write a trip report for the people on the cruise board even if they don’t help me plan? Can’t I just post it here so I can make nasty comments about cruises?

offwego,
Glad you liked the report - School visit was a peak travel experience for us. As I told you before, you are my hero for setting up Ponheary's foundation. I’m compiling a list of Cambodian volunteer opportunities and will let you know when it’s ready.

Next: the Penalty Phase

Let's see. There was a reference to a NYE dinner in Tokyo, so the report was essentially 2 months late. The computation begins.

The distance from LA to BKK is approximated at 7500 milesm multiplied by the number of Asian countries (3) yields a figure of 22500. Dividing by the cost of the Kobe dinner yields an approximate figure of 40. Adding the number of nights in BKK yields 43. multiplying by the current Baht/dollar exchange rate (35) yields 1505. Subtracting 17 for a very entertaining report yields a final penalty figure of 1488. The penalty is 1488 Riels. Payable to a charity of your choice. A receipt will be required for verification. Please note there was no additional charge for the simpering post that preceded the report. The committee was moved by the exquisite detail contained within the report proper and generously waived treble damages.

offwego, sorry to post off topic...could you send me your nonprofit org number so I can get matching contribution from my company? I just have to fill out the donation form, and possibly provide a receipt of the donation and I can get the company I work for to match 1:1, which will make some difference.

Mark-

Mark

Email me offline and I will send you the info. We love matching funds!

Lori
donate@theplf.org

crosscheck - I have been watching the responses to your thread accumulate (this one is #123) since we returned from our Bangkok - Myanmar trip. Didn't read the whole thing until today - enjoyed your sense of humor and your writing style. We did the same 3-country tour as you did back in 2000 - I still recall how nervous we were about leaving our passports with the guard at the friendship bridge before heading into Myanamar.

Craig,
I'm really enjoying your report as well. Not only is it engaging, but I imagine you will not be slapped with a penalty for tardiness.

Gpanda,
On my behalf please extend my sincere gratitude to the Committee for the very reasonable penalty. I am torn between the following charities. Please advise:

The Pen/Oriental Debate Society

Disabled Monkeys of Tong’s Special Place

Operation: Anantara Pool Temperature

Mothers Against Tailgaiting Tuk Tuks

MBK Conservancy

Siem Reap Society for the Eradication of Contaminated Drinking Water in Light Blue Bottles

Fodors Compulsive Posters Anonymous

Itinerary Spelling Foundation

Europe Board Anger Management Fund

There's a potential conflict of interest in recommending the Compulsive Fodors Posters. The angry Europe Board is a constant source of amusement, so that can't stop. Tong's disabled monkeys will soon be so well known that they will need no help. The Pen/Oriental Debate society is a staple of this board. Misspelling itinerary is a god-given write. MBK will be out of date in a few years and needs no conservancy. Tuk tuks have no tails and are not eligible for tailgaiting. The Anantara Pool temp is a method of reducing tourists. How can we put the enterprising persons contaminating the water out of business. The commitee accepts your offer, and suggests that your princely sum be sent to the Panda Preservation Society. Who would have guessed? Our hope is that Lori will send matching funds.

Panda..Panda...Panda...

Te FCPA is a very worthwhile organization!! I should know...Im not just a member...I'm the President!


Crosscheck...Please direct your donation to:

FCPA
C/o zengeos
#1 Fodors Anonymous Way
Lost City, Atlantis 12345


your contribution will be greatly appreciated!

Mark-

What a riot. I loved this whole exchange. Fab report, Great fun, about kept me on the edge of my seat. Plenty of laughs. OK crosscheck, what city do you live in? Will you be attending a GTG with your toilet buying husband?

Thanks so much for sharing your trip with us all in such a fun way.
I think you might end up with one of the most responded to messages on this board.
Appreciate it.
Sue

Yes, I agree, who needs Comedy Central or Jon Stewart with this kind've entertainment!

Zengoes-let's deconstruct the name of the FCPA. Fodors, a public forum. Compulsive, unable to control oneself repeatedly. Poster, a "contributor" to the public forum. So compulsive posters repeatedly "contribute". How can they ever be anonymous? No matter how hard we try to mask our essential beings, the repeated posts provide all sorts of information, e.g., spelling, diction, phrasing and items of interest, likes and dislikes, level of expenditure, interactions with people and perhaps most telling, ways of dealing or not with inevitable travel frustrations.. Eventually, our posts give a more accurarat picture of who we are than we could ever do in a narrative. Therefore, might I suggest that FCPA is an oxymoron and certainly not as worthy a cause as the ever-so-humble Panda Preservation Society.

Ahh, but which Panda n particular is the society preserving? I think the Panda Preservation Society should be much more transparent with regards to such issues as Panda particulars, specific Panda Preservation activities, and, of course, just what such tremendous funds will be earmarked towards.

Mark-

Sorry, no matching funds. Panda preservation falls outside our mission statement. Unless the pandas in question are in cambodia and need to attend primary school.

When we're extinct, you will all be sorry that you were not more giving to the PPS. It will be nothing like that glorious time a few years ago when RhkKmk was in exile for several months. When the Pandas are gone, sadness will descend upon the land.

Ahh you made my point about PPS all the more clear. Inability to provide information as to the Particular Panda Preservation activities you will earmark funds toward.

While our readers here, aka FCPA members, love Pandas and their Panda Playmates as much as the rest of the world, we must have oversight into use of the funds.

Mark
President, FCPA
Treasurer, FCPA
Primary Recipient, FCPA

On a side note...

It just came to mind that some of you gracious FCPA members might wonder how I came to be the President and Treasurer of FCPA. Well, having been an illustrious poster for well over 45 days, and approaching a full 2 months' membership, it was decided that I, Mark, aka zengeos, should become the President of our organization.


Voting results can be found here:

http://fcpanonymous.org/voting/results.asp

Mark-

Gpanda,
After much deliberation my husband and I have decided to give half the money to FCPA and half to PPS.

Compulsive Fodors Posters are just as cute, cuddly and exotic as pandas. In fact we are thinking of adopting one.

Mark,
When is your next board meeting? Can you do something about the alarmingly high rate of Malarone use among FCPA members?

SueHml,
I do reside in a large city near the location of an upcoming GTG. Sadly my spouse will be out of town that weekend, and I have two other events that day, but I am working on rearranging things.

moremiles,
I think people on this board are funny because of all that Malarone.

Crossceck

We of the FCPA thank you. We prefer cash donations, of course.

I agree, the Malarone may have a side effect the travel docs haven't noticed but also the abundance of stored info that we have gathered here on fodors up to a year prior to any trip must be overwhelming our circuits.

Mark-trust me, the last thing you want to be is a leader of the FCPA. Does the expression "herding squirrels" strike a familiar chord? The only time there is consensus is when a troll invades and posts some gratuitously insulting opinion. The squirrels circle the wagons and unite evr so briefly. The usual state of chaos quickly returns.

The PPS is hereby waiving the generous contribution from crosscheck. Disregarding the cuddly references, we havewhats left of our shattered pride.

zengeos<<<<<gloats in triumph>>>

Hahaha!! The FCPA is victorious!!!


<<doing Happy Dance>>>>

Happy Happy Rah Rah Rah

We now return to our scheduled discussion:

Toto Toilets...are they REALLY the total package in toilet acoutrements?

Victory through surrender. a tried and true Panda tactic from way back.

I too was taken with Crosscheck's witty prose. I did note that she began the post talking about Laos/Vietnam and India and somewhere in the middle Africa began creeping into the discussion. While I'm reminded that consistency is the hobgobliun of small minds, I recall that Pandas are not blessed with large craniums.

Very observant, Gpanda. Vietnam and LP are still high up on our to-do list, but not for winter vacation. Impressive that someone was paying attention!

Spring Break Travel Update: Older son is going to Spain on a school trip. Husband has to stay home and supervise electricians doing patchwork so we can install Toto. Younger son is going to Bahamas with a friend's family and I have just decided to spend a long weekend with them at Atlantis, a glitzy Vegas-style waterpark resort. I prefer shacks on the beach, so this is not my thing. Will attempt trip report.

What a freakin Hoot! LOl Expert Mom Conversation had me cackling. Never been to any of those places but loved your report- you are very very funny. Thanks for posting.

laartista,
I'm a big fan of your Berber report too, even though I've never been to Morocco. Had only seen the hilarious intro about your ATM issues but just went back and read the whole report.

Loved how you described both the people you met and the items you bought - equally important info when traveling.

Hey, Thanks Crosscheck! When I'm ready to hit the places in your report I'll be giving you a Fodors shoutout for info.

Hey Crosscheck I have a question. My interest has been really piqued to go to Vietnam, cambodia and Thailand. I've been looking at pix on Flickr and see alot locals wearing cloth masks over nose/mouth. Is this for fear of bird flu/ Did you see that alot and did you have any worry about that?

crosscheck, loved your report!

I can understand why you weren't overly impressed with Bangkok. When I first went there, in 1995, I hated it, mostly because of the horrid traffic. I've been back 4 times since and usually avoid the traffic by staying on the river (at the Pen) and taking either boats or the skytrain. Bangkok is now one of my favorite places and probably my favorite city, along with Sydney. When we were there this past June however, we used Tong for a couple of days and the traffic was horrendous. It made me remember why I disliked Bangkok so much. Part of it was because of the King's Jubilee, which made things even worse.

I loved your story about the Japanese toilet. When we were in Japan three years ago, I too fell in love with the washlet toilet and raved about it to everyone and spent loads of time in the bathroom. We're going back to Japan in a week and a half (we leave March 25, yeah!) and I can't wait to use those toilets again! It's nice to know you can buy them here. I went to the web site you referred to but no prices are listed. Would you mind cluing us in on the price of this masterpiece?

I was also hoping to try kobe steak this time but $150 for one steak seems a bit outrageous. Maybe someone can suggest a less expensive alternative.

laartista,
I thought peoople wore face masks because they already had colds and they wanted to prevent infecting everyone else.

But it's also possible that nervous people and hypochodriacs wear masks because they're afraid of catching upper respiratory infections, including SARS and bird flu.

That said, bird flu was not on the radar at all when we were in SE Asia, at least on the tourist trail.

laurieco,
I can see how it would be hit or miss w/ Bangkok traffic. I'm sure we will be back to give it another try. (But, traffic or no traffic, we are big fans of Sydney!)

Our Washlet, the midrange model, was $692. (That's just for the seat, which attaches to our existing toilet.) The one in our hotel, with a side panel instead of remote control, would have been about $200 less and a top-of-the-line model with pulsating cleanse would have been $200 more.

Kobe-wise, our concierge did recommend a shabu shabu/steak place in the Ginza that she said was considerably less than Seryna. Can't remember the name, but we googled it and couldn't find any info so we decided not to take the chance. But if we had been there longer, definitely would have tried a less-famous restaurant for local flavor and a better deal.

crosscheck, thanks for the information. I'll have to give that washlet some serious thought. My husband will think I'm out of my mind but he probably already thinks that anyway.

About the kobe steak, I'm glad there are some less expensive options. Perhaps I'll start a thread on Fodors asking about affordable kobe steak in Japan!

THE TOILET IS HERE:
Just returned from a nightmare trip to Atlantis, which deserves to be a Lost Continent once again. (Will post mini-trip report on Carribean board as soon as I can find humor in all our misadventures.)

After calling American to check on the status of my lost luggage, discovered that our Toto Washlet has arrived and is functioning. Has been successfully installed in the master bath, hooked up to costly new wiring.

Haven't experienced more than the heated seat yet, but wanted all of you to be among the first to know.

(Wiring is borderline unsightly. Remote control is somewhat intimidating.)

Can't wait for the full report
JAPANESE TOILET INSTALLED IN US BATHROOM
I can see it now in your local paper:
"Following a nightmare trip to Atlantis, local resident crosscheck was welcomed home to a state of the art, yet somewhat intimidating reminder of her recent Asian holiday"
As the family gathered to share details of their recent travels, distant relatives, neighbors and long lost friends began arriving at their home to experience their unique Asian souvenir loo.
"we never imagined our toilet would become such a conversation piece" said crosscheck. "Now when we have parties and dinners, all the guests disappear and we just have long lines waiting outside the bathroom. There have been a few misshaps and a few guests re appear with sheepish looks on their faces as they have caused some water squirting malfunctions."
"It's a bit like having a new puppy, we all need to "train it" to behave but we're not about to give it the bums rush."

Actually, I got one of the washlets for my house last year. I can't imagine living without one.

Also makes for interesting discussions when guests come for dinner or a visit.

I am unable to come up with a non-unseemly phrase for wishing someone good luck with their toilet.

I am unable to come up with a non-unseemly phrase for wishing someone good luck with their toilet.

"Happy hygiene!"

"May Toto's Aim Always Be True"

"Enjoy Life on the Hot Seat!"

Exactly as I suspected. It all devolves towards farce.

rizzuto - roflmao!

Thanks, clever Fodorites, for your good wishes.

I'm flushing with pride.

Oh my!! Considering a trip to Thailand for next March and just started reading posts on the Asia board. Loved, loved, loved your trip report!! I was laughing out loud several times. Being a regular over there, the "Europe Board Anger Management Fund" was the funniest!

Just returned from Morocco and our first "adventure" travel and are up for more! The more I hear about Cambodia the more I am intrigued about trying to include it. Glad to hear you can fit 4 people in a suite at Anantara - it looks perfect for us, but thought having to get two rooms was a major splurge. We will be with our kids ages 12 and 15 at the time.

I have similar conversations with my husband about people on fodors. Luckily for me my daughter likes to read fodors posts so we can actually have a real discussion about some of the characters.

Well, I hope you are around to answer more questions if we decide to go to Thailand. Thanks again!

jgg,

Thanks so much - This made my day. You will love Thailand and Cambodia, especially the Anantara elephant experience - Happy to answer questions.

Have been meaning to check out your immensely-popular trip report because we are huge fans of Barcelona (spent a month in the area) and Morocco is on our list.

You're right about the anger on the Europe board, but I actually find it quite entertaining, especially the heated arguements about whether it's okay to wear jeans in Paris or Rome.

Crosscheck-
Hello from another LA gal!

Just finally read your report. I must have missed it when it first came out as I was traveling at the time.
I really enjoyed the sense of humor in your writing style.

The Pen is my favorite hotel and now I'm wishing that we'd eaten at their Thai restaurant last time we were there. Just means we have to go back!

My husband and I toured with Ponheary and stayed at her guesthouse back in 2002 and I still remember her telling us about being buried and left for dead by the Khmer Rouge. It made such an impact on both of us, much more so than all the stories about Khmer kings and mythologies in the temple carvings.

BTW, I can't even tell you how many similar conversations I've had with my husband or mother about various Fodorite recommendations. Fortunately, by now they've learned the value of the information I get here firsthand. Now I'm asked what the collective "they" recommend for our dining options or public transportion choices.

Will you be at the LA GTG?

crosscheck - My trip report has a lot of details but definitely not as entertaining as yours!! I am enjoying the people on the Asia board. I would not be penalized by Gpanda as for my most recent trip report, we came home on Sat. and I started posting on Monday!!

jgg-of course you escaped the penalty. You were so prompt, the issue of a penalty was never considered by the bored (Bob, that's what we call a pun). Crosscheck, on the other hand began grovelling for a waiver before she even started her report. PENALTY. However, the imposition of her penalty is what spurred the diswcussion about where the funds should go. Compulsive posters prevailed over the hungry, starving and ever-so-cute Pandas. Justice was not served.

Kristina -
Unfortunately I have two other events on the day of the LA GTG. Because of my conflict, I will be attending the Friday night out-of-staters' dinner.

Gpanda -
Still guiltridden about my tardy trip report. I promise to post my next one before the trip.

CC-if you follow Bob's lead, and don't let the facts detract from a good report, pre-posting might be a good idea. I do note that Mark-Zengoes, was very timely with his report.