julies

Your candid thought will help me to determine how much time we should devote to the city. Incidentally, we would be using it as an international flight base rather than as a destination on its own.

I know some people here absolutely love Bangkok, but I also have read that many love it because of the fancy hotels and fancy restaurants and the great shopping. We are not super fancy hotel people or super fancy restaurant people, and we are not shoppers. Plus, we are too old to be looking for nightlife.

I am just trying to get a handle on whether or not it is a city we'd like or dislike and how much time to plan there. We have not visited a lot of Asia so don't have lots of comparisons. If it helps, in Vietnam we preferred Hanoi to Saigon. In India we prefer Mumbai (in fact, were very pleasantly surprised) to Delhi. Kathmandu was so-so, and the air pollution was incredible.

Thank you.

Kathie

I am one who loves Bangkok. I love the amazing wats. As many times as I've been there (2-3 dozen) we always find a new wat to visit. I do love the wonderful Thai food. And I used to shop there, especially for fine crafts. (I no longer have space for more crafts) I will say that staying on the river makes all the difference. The area along the river gives us access to the river boats (public water taxis) and access to the skytrain so that we never have to deal with Bangkok traffic once we are at our river hotel.

Our most recent trip, we had a free week at a Marriott, so stayed at the JW downtown. We both found that we just didn't like saying downtown. The river side is more convenient for transport and it is slightly cooler (less hot) and the air is cleaner.

Very nice hotels are well-priced in Bangkok. (I know that isn't your focus)

I love the energy of Bangkok. I enjoyed Hanoi. We enjoyed Kolkata. I love Kathmandu but my visits were before the air pollution was that bad.

We are foodies, and Bangkok has amazing restaurants in all price ranges. We ate at two places on the "top 50" list this last visit and thought they were good, but not fabulous. We didn't get a chance to eat at Gaggan this trip because I got sick. Gaggan is molecular cuisine - if you like molecular cuisine, I highly recommend it. But even if you just want casual Thai restaurants, you will find remarkable food.

thursdaysd

I, on the other hand, am not a fan. I find the city too crowded, too noisy, too hot and too polluted, with abysmal traffic. One thing SEA is not short of is wats, so it's not like you can't see them somewhere less frenetic. Like you, I am not interested in fancy hotels, expensive meals, or shopping. (Although you can certainly eat well without spending a ton of money.)

I do agree with Kathie that staying on the river helps a lot. (See https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ay-of-bangkok/ for the four hotels I used on my last trips through Bangkok.)

However, for a first visit there is certainly enough worthwhile sightseeing to keep you occupied for two or three days. Plus a combined bus and boat to/from Ayutthaya makes a good day trip. You can maybe do Kanchanaburi (Bridge on the river Kwai) as a day trip, see: http://www.seat61.com/Bridge-on-the-...m#.VoGDzL-naS0

PhiMeow

OP - let me turn the question around.
What are your interests? You told us cities you liked but without telling us why you liked them. Without knowing your interests it is difficult to tell you whether you would like Bangkok or not.

Having lived in Bangkok for more than 10 years and have made plenty of visits since I have my pet likes and hates.

More info pls.

julies

PhilMeow--Good question.

We don't enjoy modern, frenetic, neon-lit, high rise oriented cities. Never in a million years would we ever go to a modern shopping mall while visiting a city.

We enjoy walkable cities, or walkable areas of cities that can be reached by public transportation. Authentic markets (food or flowers etc.) are places we enjoy visiting. We enjoy having access to walking around harbors, river vistas, botanical gardens, nice parks, historic architecturally interesting areas, and even interesting residential neighborhoods. Local boat rides (not super touristy dinner cruises) also interest us.

I think we preferred Mumbai to Delhi because many of the places of interest to tourists were walkable rather than in Delhi where they are scattered and require a taxi to go between places. Plus we liked the water-based orientation of the city. Saigon seemed too contemporary for our tastes, whereas Hanoi seemed to offer more historic areas and better walkability. Plus, Saigon was really hot, and we do not want to wander around a concrete jungle where all of that cement just retains the heat.

Kathie and Kathy--It definitely sounds as though the river would be the place for us to stay. Are there sidewalks and paths along the river? And, some of those boat trip options would appeal to us.

thanks much.

Kathie

There isn't a river walk in Bangkok, as there are in many cities, but I do walk in neighborhoods near the river - Chinatown, for instance.

I know a bit about you, just from reading your posts here and I can't predict how you will react to Bangkok. People either love it - or not.

thursdaysd

I don't think of Bangkok as a walking city. For one thing, it's hot and humid. If I'm not traveling by water I aim to take the Skytrain, but it doesn't go everywhere. Otherwise you're better off in a taxi - tuk-tuks are just as slow and you're breathing in all that exhaust, motorbikes can weave through the congestion, but I have doubts about their safety.

I have been known to wind up in a mall in Bangkok. Think food court and AC. Also, there's a rather good aquarium in one.

Guenmai

The aquarium is in Paragon Mall. When one thinks of malls in Bangkok, they aren't only for shopping. A lot of Thai people are in malls which must be why they keep building more of them. Malls have a lot of good food courts and independent restaurants. Plus, the aquarium in Paragon Mall is really great although I first went the year that it was finished. But, now they also have reptiles I think. I didn't see any reptiles when it was first completed although maybe they were there then. But, the fish and the glass-bottom boat trip was great.

Happy Travels!

yestravel

I fall into not loving or hating BKK. I enjoyed BKK - it is definitely frenetic and was different from any city I had visited (first visit to SEASia). I think we described it as NYC on steroids. Lots of high rises and tons of shopping malls which I doubt would interest you. Shopping does seem to be a popular sport for many who visit BKK. It was very hot both times we were there and rather polluted. As suggested staying on the river helps and the 2nd visit we did stay on the river and I loved watching the river traffic. People are wonderful -- very friendly and helpful which was a really great part of our visit.

I agree BKK is not a great walking city. We tended to either take the boats up the river or the Skytrain, but we weren't hesitant to walk and did so to a certain degree. Typically we walk way more than we did in BKK.

There are some "authentic" markets. And there are some nice boat trips you can take up and down the river. We loved doing that. As mentioned great high end restaurants and fabulous street food and moderate to low priced restaurants. Food was one of the draws for me to go back a 2nd trip to BKK since it was our gateway city also.

My comparison comparable to yours (haven't been to India and have minimal interest in going if that matters)-I really liked Hanoi, but also enjoyed Saigon as after 9 weeks of traveling it was nice to be in a more cosmopolitan city, don't know how I would have felt visiting it under different circumstances.

Since you are using BKK as a gateway if I were you I'd take a couple days spend some time wandering and exploring and see the major sites if they are ones that might interest you. I think I would figure, why not? But I will say it is a " modern, frenetic, neon-lit, high rise oriented cities." though there are parts not fitting that description.

PhiMeow

Given that:
>We don't enjoy modern, frenetic, neon-lit, high rise oriented cities
>... Hanoi seemed to offer more historic areas and better walkability.
>Saigon was really hot, and we do not want to wander around a concrete jungle where all of that cement just retains the heat.
and
>We enjoy walkable cities, or walkable areas of cities that can be reached by public transportation
then
I don't think Bangkok is a city for you. If you do have time, I suggest you look at a few days in Chiang Mai as it is not too hot, plenty of walkable areas like within the old city and nearby neighbourhoods, no highrises, has markets/walking streets (albeit touristy).

If you are really keen on exploring Bangkok then apart from the areas near the river that Kathie mentioned the neighbourhoods around Lang Suan /sarasin / Ton Son Alleys (near Klong San Saeb - easiest landmark on google maps is US Embassy) makes for a pleasant walking area in that it is relatively quiet and peaceful).

p.s if you liked Hanoi, did you get a chance to explore Hue? That is a city right up your alley.

Happy travels.

progol

Like yestravel, I neither love the city nor hate it. I enjoyed our short trip there but don't feel a strong urge to go back -- though would be happy to return, as there is still much I didn't see. Though we did find ourselves exploring some nooks and crannies off main roads, I wouldn't call it a place that has inherent charming neighborhoods that lend itself to wandering around.

It is not a walkable city, but we did enjoy traveling on the boats and ferries along the river, and the Skytrain is easy to navigate through the downtown area. As we were there during political unrest 2 years ago, we stayed within the downtown area, primarily near the river, and didn't get too off-the-beaten track.

It is chaotic, noisy, traffic-filled -- but it's got a great energy, and the street food and small restaurants are wonderful. We had a guide take us to some of the smaller wats and through some of the secondary sights, and we really did enjoy that a lot. We loved seeing Chinatown, and went back there for dinner one night, and the evening had a great feel all its own.

From what you've described, it doesn't seem to be a city that's quite up your alley, but a couple of days there will be worthwhile, I'm sure.

filmwill

I think you'll hate it, Julie...based solely on how you travel. Not like mildly hate, but massively, with the fire of a thousand suns hate.

It's one of my favorite cities in the world, BTW.

We arrive there in just a few short hours and I cannot wait to see its majesty again!

Guenmai

Julies: I would say give it two days and hire a guide for one of them in order to get you around to see what's on your list of things to see. Then spend the second day wondering on your own to discover things. As for me I absolutely love Bangkok and just arrived yesterday and will stay for 3 weeks here before moving on to the next two countries. I've been coming here regularly since the 1990s and find the place very energizing. But, according to your likes, I think two days would be enough for you.

Happy Travels!

samuell

Our first trip to Bangkok was some thirty years ago on a bus tour, I hated very second of it.

Four years ago, I was in Bangkok a lot on business, staying in fancy hotels such as the Marriott and Grand Hyatt.

Last couple of years we return as a tourist, not just in Bangkok but other places in Thailand.

Thailand - along with Taiwan is now our two favorite countries in Asia, Bangkok is one of our favorite cities.

Matter fact, we are leaving in 10 days time to Thailand for three weeks including a visit to Bangkok.

There is a little seaside town, Hua-Hin that is not far from Bangkok you may like, we love it and are returning there too.

The river is definitively a good place to stay - and you get a totally different feel of the city and we stay at the Ibis last year - clean, basic and inexpensive.

For you first trip - I would give it a minimum three days.

CaliforniaLady

Julie, for me, it wasn't a matter of liking or not liking Bangkok, but rather, my five nights there after my journey across SEA allowed me to settle in one place, and take some nice day trips from there. Yes, the city has a terrible traffic problem, and the BTS network is not extensive, but it would be a wonderful end to your journey for a variety of reasons.

First, the watts in Bangkok are wonderfully different from the ones you will see in Cambodia and Laos. Many have sparkly jewels and mosaics, and you could stare at them for a long time and just be amazed. Second, the food is wonderful, particularly the seasonings, and it tastes completely different than Thai food in the US. Third, Bangkok could serve as a base for at least two day trips.

During my five nights in Bangkok, I spent 2 1/2 days seeing the city, and I was busy every minute. I also took a day trip to Kanabanchuri and another to Ayutthaya. I took the bus, but with two of you, you could probably use a driver.

I think about five nights in Bangkok will be a nice end to your journey. Sometimes I have not particularly "liked" a city, but I found the sites fascinating and worth my time. Cairo is just one example that comes to mind.

BTW, my favorite acitivity n Bangkok was the snake farm run by the Red Cross, and the twice daily shows that they preset.

LancasterLad

If you're not v.careful Bangkok will be 24/7 in your face, claustrophobic as it gets, and you'll hate it.

I'd simply get hold of the latest edition of Lonely Planet, spend hours trying to get things right, and use it as your best friend [but not Bible].

It's important you choose the right area to stay, and it's important you have easy access to the BTS [Skytrain], MRT [Underground], or Public Ferries. Here's an excellent website giving all the details about the various types of public transport...

http://www.transitbangkok.com/

The Skytrain is v.v busy during peak hours, full of clones glued to the thing in their hand, so don't expect to much interaction with locals.

There's several good accommodation suggestions already. I'll add a couple, right next to the Chao Phraya River in Banglamphu, on a street called Phra Arthit. The New Siam Riverside and Navalai River Resort are both mid-range, and v.close to Pier 13 for the Orange Flag Public Ferry [which connect at Central Pier for the Skytrain. Imo the New Siam Riverside is slightly better [simply because it's cheaper but just as good], it's also part of a small group of New Siam hotels/guesthouses which offer vfm in the Banglamphu area.

Banglamphu is very walkable, part of Old Bangkok, and you don't need to hold your head vertical to see the sky. Khao San is closeby, but you can take it or avoid it, but either way it's worth a peek [more vibrant at night]. There are loads of excellent good value places to eat and drink within easy walking distance. Unlike places such as Sukhumvit or Silom there is no noticeable sleeze in Banglamphu.

To get to you hotel from the airport it's usually best to go door-to-door by taxi. There's a helpful and reliable taxi desk on the Arrival Floor.

A few must-do things on a short trip are...

- the full length on the the Orange Flag Public Ferry to Nonthaburi [home of the durian fruit, and where you'll find the infamous Bangkok Hilton].

- a walk round Lumphini Park for a bit of greenery and to watch the locals exercise or jog around, and see a few Malaysian Monitor Lizards lumbering around or wallowing in the lake.

- To escape the heat for a couple of hours [and as already mentioned] Siam Ocean World on the ground floor of Siam Paragon [keep an eye out for discount vouchers].

As already mentioned Ayutthaya [old capital of Siam] is easy to do on a day trip. Personally I wouldn't rush things and would stay overnight. I'd get a morning 3rd Class train there [ticket 15 baht!] from Hualamphong station, hire a tuk tuk on arrival for sight seeing. Not many tourists stay overnight, but there's a small area of low key bars and places to eat.

Kanchanaburi [Bridge over the River Kwai, and WWII history] is one of my favourite places in the world, and easy to do from Bangkok. Most people visit on a rushed and tiring day tour. We spend at least 2/3 nights there to take in as much of the place as we can at our own pace. It's v.easy to reach independently by train [2 a day] from Thonburi Train Station [across the river and easy to reach by taxi from Banglamphu].

crellston

I neither love nor hate the place. For those of us coming from Europe it just happens to be the most convenient transit point for the rest of Asia. I have visited many times, usually to top and tail a trip which, it seems as though you will be doing.

LIKES

Excellent food
Comparatively inexpensive 4 and 5* hotels
Public boats along the river
Thai massages
Public boats along the river
Local neighbourhood markets
Wats and palaces (but see below)
Chinatown and the flower market

DISLIKES

The epidemic of shopping malls
The traffic and pollution (although it doesnt seem as bad as it used to be)
Overcrowding at major sites like the Grand Palace
The heat - doesn't bother me, but from your comments, I feel it may get to you.- Similar temperatures to Saigon
The lack of any real city centre - I do find it rather soulless.

If you are transiting via Bangkok then it clearly makes sense to spend at least an overnight in Bangkok before and/or after any internacional flights. Given your interests I think around three nights would be enough to cover the major tourist sights.

As for trips away from the city, given the other sights you will be visiting in Cambodia and Laos ( if that is still the plan ) I think you may well be underwhelmed by Ayuthaya (for me the best part would be getting there but boat or train). Kanchanburi, as LL suggests is possible on a day trip but better to spend a few days there and and include some of the national parks. Possibly of greater historical interest to British and Australian than other nationalities.

I think our interests are very similar and my order of preference of cities in SE Asia would be Hanoi, Saigon, Phnom Penh, Bangkok.

shelleyk

LL-How long would it take to go the full length on the Orange flag boat route? We are heading to Bangkok for a few days and it sounds like a good way to spend some time. Is there anything to see in Nonthaburi, or do you just take the boat back to starting point? I did a klong tour on my last trip, and really enjoyed it.

Julie- Bangkok is not one of my favorite cities in southeast Asia, but I do think it is worth 2 or 3 days if you are transiting through there. I prefer Saigon and Hanoi and will be heading back to both in a few weeks.

If you'd like to see something of architectural interest while in Bangkok, I enjoyed the Prasart Museum (You would need a taxi or driver to get there) and the Suan Packard Museum (near a BTS stop). Both are very quiet and calm amidst the sea of noise and pollution that can be Bangkok, at times. Another point in their favor is that neither are overun with tourists.

julies

These are all marvelously detailed answers that help me a lot!

Some of the ideas you have mentioned do sound like they would interest us for a while. But, I suspect for us the city will fall more into the dislike end of the spectrum.

"I think we described it as NYC on steroids." This alone makes me think Bangkok may not call to us. In the US we much prefer DC to NYC.

At this point I am contemplating just an overnighter upon arrival and then moving on with the knowledge that on a flexible trip like I am thinking about, we could have a couple days at the end of the to fit more days in Bangkok if I want. Our normal rule of thumb, anyway, is to arrive in our city of departure for home a day ahead of time so we make sure to catch our flight.

Thanks so much!

Kathie

Julies, I do hope you will come back and tell us about how you felt about Bangkok. I used to think that it was a matter of city person (or not) that determined ones' reaction, but I have grown to see that it is much more complex.

Shelley has given you recommendations of two of the places we love - the Prasart Museum (you'll need a reservation in advance) and the Suan Pakkard Palace with its amazing lacquer pavilion.