offwego

Bored silly in the Taipei airport, since they closed the smoking rooms. Had a bit of excitement going down to the furthest end of Terminal C and having a smoke in the women's room, risking a 10,000NT fine....how much is that anyway? I may go have another.....

There's a Starbucks in Terminal D now, replacing what used to be a pretty decent noodle place. <sigh>

Anyway, starting today on a journey up a well trodden path from Bali to Cambodia. Haven't planned a thing; haven't read any trip reports; don't have any reservations or a clue about anything really. Something about this trip has me feeling like I'm headed off to Disneyland. We'll see. Hoping some spur of the moment decisions will help add some adventure.

Will keep you posted if I run across anything interesting.

filmwill

best of luck, Lori. Can't wait to read more about your journey!

BTW, I remember well those good ole' nicotine cravings. Luckily, I quit before any of my long-haul travels to Asia. That would've been hellish.

Craig

Have a great time, Lori. Even though you have not read any trip reports, I look forward to any tidbits you may wish to share...

Kristina

Hey Lori!

My first thought is, you're still smoking?? Girl....((shakes head))
;-)
Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing more about your trip, especially since you have nothing planned. I know how weird that is for you. I'm sure you will find some adventure. May it be the "fun" kind.

Gpanda

Go get 'em, Lori. Plans are for we timid travellers. Lagniappes are much more common in unregulated situations. We know we will get a timely report.

dogster

Bravo, off! I'll be following your stumbles with interest. Dogster's mojo is protecting you.

Kathie

Have a wonderful time, Lori! I'll look forward to your report.

hawaiiantraveler

Lori, I wish I could travel like you do.....better yet, we all wish we had the constitution within us to live and travel like you do......I guess I will have to settle with living vicariously through your reports.....

Aloha!

offwego

Oh thanks for your encouragement on my first "trip without a plan". So far so good. Walked around ubud today. Bought a nice ikat at Threads of Life (thought of you Kathie). Ate something I never had before every couple of hours...

Lots of rain, but that's okay. Kinda cools things down a bit and invites you to go have a sit and chat someone up. The locals here are lovely.

The shortcut to my guesthouse is through that dang monkey camp. Gotta strip myself of sunglasses, hide plastic bags in my backpack and go like the dickens. I light a cigarette on the way in, thinking the business end might be a good deterrent in case one tries to mug me. They really should give rabies vaccinations on the way in.

Ubud is a nice town. Nice people. Nice shops. Nice food. Kinda boring. Not sure I'll stay here as long as I thought. It reminds me of Santa Cruz; white chicks with dreads, yoga classes and organic juice joints. This ain't the Bali I imagined. Not yet.

Maybe I'll go find me a driver to take me to the countryside tomorrow and have a look around. Maybe something will resonate.

Kristina

"reminds me of Santa Cruz; white chicks with dreads, yoga classes and organic juice joints"

ROTFLMAO!!

I was going to warn you about those monkeys too...

Can't wait to hear more.

marya_

I hope that something resonates. Please write again soon even in it doesn't! The images of you at the Taipei airport and dashing through the monkey camp are priceless. As is the Ubud-as-Santa Cruz characterization. Thanks for such a delightful thread.

Gpanda

Each morning we were in Ubud, I would run through the monkey forest at first light. They kept their distance and came nowhere near me. It was as if they were observing me as opposed to vice versa. So, Lori, my advice when transiting the Monkey Forest is to wear spandex shorts a sweaty T-shirt and pretend you are out of breath while plodding noisily. Of course, this should not prevent you from smoking a cigarette at the same time.

Kathie

Lori, I fear you are right that Ubud itself has been mostly taken over by refugees from Santa Cruz. But get out into the countryside, visit temples in small villages and get caught up in the celebrations and you'll find a different Bali. You may also want to visit Lombok (great textiles!).

Even though I am in Kauai and normally don't do much reading or posting on Fodors while I'm here, I am signing in to follow along with your trip!

MichaelBKK

Yes, definitely get out into the countryside. Head up to the lake, or even all the way to the north side of Bali. See it before it too gets ruined after they construct the second airport there. Of course, even the locals have begun to think things have gone too far. See:

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2...g-experts.html

rhkkmk

have a great time....assure the natives that that mad man will not be found in the MF for at least another year...

offwego

okay things are getting taking shape.

Spent the day in the countryside and will do the same tomorrow. Turns out, you were right, that's where they're hiding Bali.

A friend in LA sent me the number of an industrious chap named Wayan (one of the thousands of Wayans in Bali). He is a driver, an amazing artist and has built some bungalows (homestays) on his rice terraces just north of town. I asked him to take me out there as I am supposed to be scouting Ubud as a possible side-trip for the folks from the US who come to Cambodia each year to help us start school.

These 2 little houses are in the perfect location, with outdoor showers, full kitchens and the most amazing view. A beautiful 15 minute walk to ubud through terraced rice paddies, across footbridges, through the jungle. (No monkeys that I could see) Ahhhh. Nice. I regret that I didn't stay somewhere like this on this trip. What a dork. I kept thinking I needed a pool; hello...it's rainy season. Amateur.

Anyway, I had a nice day visiting with his family and then going around to some temples outside of town. One of them was up about 4,000 stairs which almost set me down (danged cigarettes)

Thinking about trekking that volcano tomorrow if the rain will let up. Also going to visit the "Green School" (greenschool.org) just to get some big ideas for our little shanty-schools in Siem Reap.

I don't know what to say about the food in Ubud; it's filling the hole, but not tripping the trigger. Is it dumbed down for the tourists? Seems like it needs some spice. I have found that the little side-street dives are far superior to the Napa-esque cuisine being served at the snappier places in town. (Been there, done that). Wayan has told me about the crispy pig, so that's high on my list before I go.

Today at Wayan's house I did have the most amazing cup of coffee ever. Why aren't they serving that stuff in restaurants?

Lastly, I must confess, that after funning about the "white chicks in dreads, doing yoga and drinking juice" that I did buy some nice yoga pants this evening. They certainly don't have those in Siem Reap. Actually they are nicer than any I've ever bought in the states.

Bought tickets today for Yogyakarta. Leaving in two days.

Andy I tried your technique in the Monkey Camp to no avail. They still follow me around like the little hairy gangsters that they are.

MichaelBKK

A while back, my guide on a bike tour filled me in on Balinese names. They only have four first names. The first child is always either Wayan or Putu, the second Made or Kadek, etc. If they have more than four children, then the fifth will be another Wayan. Same for the ninth. Must be confusing.

offwego

Yes Michael, that's what Wayan told me. It's interesting. How in the world does anyone know who is who? I mean, what if you shouted "Hey Wayan!" down the street, or asked "has anyone seen Wayan"?

cruisinred

Hi Lori-

The homestay place in the countryside sounds great. Do you have any details such as the cost?

I'm hoping to do a Bali/Siem Reap trip sometime this year....fingers crossed.

Thanks,
Lorna

Kathie

Wonderful! I knew you'd find Bali.